CHAPTER XVIII.

Pará.

The city of _Santa Maria de Belem do Graõ Pará_, founded by _Francisco

Caldeira do Castello Branco_, in the year 1616, is situated on a low

elbow of land at the junction of the river Guamá with the river Pará,

and at a distance of about eighty miles from the sea.

A ship generally requires three tides, which run with a velocity of

about four miles to the hour, to reach the sea from the city.

Pará is not fortified, either by land or water. There is a very small

and inefficient fort situated on an island about five miles below the

city; but it is only armed with a few ill-conditioned field-pieces,

which do not command the channel. There is also a small battery in the

city near the point of junction of the two rivers; but there are no guns

mounted, and its garrison could be easily driven out by musketry from

the towers of the cathedral.

The harbor is a very fine one; it is made by the long island of Onças

in front, and at two miles distant, with some smaller ones further down

the river. There is an abundance of water, and ships of any size may

lie within one hundred and fifty yards of the shore. There is a good

landing-place for boats and lighters at the custom-house wharf; and at

half tide at the stone wharf, some five hundred yards above.

The corporation was engaged, during my stay, in building a strong stone

sea-wall all along in front of the town. This will make a new wide

street on the water-front, and prevent smuggling. Formerly, canoes, at

high stages of the river, would land cargoes surreptitiously in the very

cellars of the warehouses situated on the river.

The city is divided into the freguezias, or parishes, of Sé and Campina.

Nine other freguezias are included in the _municipio_ of the capital;

but many of these are leagues distant, and should not geographically be

considered as belonging to the city, or their population be numbered in

connexion with it.

The population of the city proper numbered, in 1848, (the last

statistical account I have, and which I think would differ very little

from a census taken at this time,) nine thousand two hundred and

eighty-four free persons, and four thousand seven hundred and twenty-six

slaves. The number of inhabited houses was two thousand four hundred

and eighteen; of births, seven hundred and eighty-five; of marriages,

ninety-eight; of deaths, three hundred and seventy-five; and of resident

foreigners, seven hundred and eighty-four.

Pará was a remarkably healthy place, and entirely free from epidemics of

any kind, until February, 1850, when the yellow fever was taken there

by a vessel from Pernambuco. It was originally brought from the coast

of Africa to Bahia, and spread thence along the coast. The greatest

malignancy of the disease was during the month of April, when it carried

off from twenty to twenty-five a day.

About the same time the next year, (the fever being much diminished,)

the small pox broke out with great violence. About twenty-five per cent.

of the population died from the two diseases. I imagine that the city

will now never be entirely free from either; and the filthy condition

in which the low tide leaves the slips, in which lie the small trading

craft, must be a fruitful source of malaria, and an ever-exciting cause

of epidemic.

The crews of these vessels, with their families, generally live in them.

They are consequently crowded; and, when the tide is out, they lie on

their sides, imbedded in a mass of refuse animal and vegetable matter,

rotting and festering under a burning sun.

Pará, however, is an agreeable place of residence, and has a delightful

climate. The sun is hot till about noon, when the sea breeze comes

in, bringing clouds with rain, thunder, and lightning, which cool and

purify the atmosphere, and wash the streets of the city. The afternoon

and evening are then delicious. This was invariable during my stay of

a month.

The rich vegetable productions of the country enhance much the beauty

of the city. In nearly all the gardens grow the beautiful miriti palm,

the cabbage palm, the cocoa nut, the cinnamon, the bread-fruit tree,

and rich green vines of black pepper. The rapidity of vegetable growth

here is wonderful. Streets opened six months ago in the suburbs of the

city, are now filled up with bushes of the _stramonium_, or Jamestown

weed, of full six feet in height. There are a number of almond trees

in various parts of the town, which are very ornamental. These trees

throw out horizontal branches, encircling the trunk at intervals of

five or six feet, the lowest circle being the largest, so that they

resemble in shape a Norfolk pine. Mr. Norris and I thought it remarkable

that, in a row of these trees planted before a house or line of houses,

those nearest the door were invariably the farthest advanced in growth.

This we particularly remarked in the case of a row planted before the

barracks, in two parts of the city. The tree under which the sentinel

stood, in both cases, was the largest of the row.

We saw, in a walk in the suburbs of the town, what we thought to be a

palm tree growing out of the crotch of a tree of a different species;

but, upon examination, it appeared that the tree, out of which the

palm seemed growing, was a creeper, which, embracing the palm near the

ground, covered its trunk entirely for fifteen or twenty feet, and then

threw off large branches on each side. It may seem strange to call that

a creeper, which had branches of at least ten inches in diameter; but so

it was. It is called in Cuba the parricide tree, because it invariably

kills the tree that supports it. (_Har. Mag. January, 1853._)

The most picturesque object, however, in Pará was the ruins of an old

opera house near the palace. The luxuriant vegetation of the country has

seized upon it, and it presents pillar, arch, and cornice of the most

vivid and beautiful green.

The society of Pará is also agreeable. The men, I am sorry to say,

seem to be above work. Most of them are _Hidalgos_, or gentlemen; and

nearly all are in the employ of the government, with exceedingly small

salaries. In the whole city of Pará, I am told, there are not a dozen

Brazilians engaged in trade of any kind. The women are simple, frank,

and engaging in their manners, and very fond of evening parties and

dancing. I attended a ball, which is given monthly by a society of

gentlemen, and was much pleased at the good taste exhibited in its

management. Full dress was forbidden. No one was permitted to appear

in diamonds; and the consequence was, that all the pretty girls of

the merely respectable classes, as well as of the rich, were gathered

together, and had a merry time of it.

But the principal charm of Pará, as of all other tropical places, is the

_Dolce far niente_. Men, in these countries, are not ambitious. They

are not annoyed, as the more masculine people of colder climates are,

to see their neighbors going ahead of them. They are contented to live,

and to enjoy, without labor, the fruits which the earth spontaneously

offers; and, I imagine, in the majority of cases, if a Brazilian has

enough food, of even the commonest quality, to support life, coffee or

tea to drink, cigars to smoke, and a hammock to lie in, that he will be

perfectly contented.

This, of course, is the effect of climate. There was a time when the

Portuguese nation, in maritime and scientific discoveries—in daring

explorations—in successful colonization—in arts and arms—was inferior to

no other in proportion to its strength; and I have very little doubt but

that the bold and ambitious Englishman, the spirited and cosmopolitan

Frenchman, and the hardy, persevering, scheming American, who likes

little that any one should go ahead of him, would alike, in the course

of time, yield to the relaxing influence of a climate that forbids

him to labor, and to the charm of a state of things where life may be

supported without the necessity of labor.

To make, then, the rich and varied productions of this country available

for commercial purposes, and to satisfy the artificial wants of man,

it is necessary that labor should be compulsory. To Brazil and her

political economists belongs the task of investigation, and of deciding

how, and by what method, this shall be brought about.

The common sentiment of the civilized world is against the renewal of

the African slave trade; therefore must Brazil turn elsewhere for the

compulsory labor necessary to cultivate her lands. Her Indians will not

work. Like the _llama_ of Peru, they will die sooner than do more than

is necessary for the support of their being. I am under the impression

that, were Brazil to throw off a causeless jealousy, and a puerile fear

of our people, and invite settlers to the Valley of the Amazon, there

might be found, among our Southern planters, men, who, looking with

apprehension (if not for themselves, at least for their children) to the

state of affairs as regards slavery at home, would, under sufficient

guarantees, remove their slaves to that country, cultivate its lands,

draw out its resources, and prodigiously augment the power and wealth

of Brazil.

The negro slave seems very happy in Brazil. This is remarked by all

foreigners; and many times in Pará was a group of merry, chattering,

happy-looking black women, bringing their baskets of washed clothes

from the spring, pointed out to me, that I might notice the evils of

slavery. The owners of male slaves in Pará generally require from each

four or five testoons a day, (twenty testoons make a dollar,) and leave

him free to get it as he can. The slaves organize themselves into bands

or companies, elect their captain, who directs and superintends their

work, and contract with a certain number of mercantile houses to do

their porterage. The gang which does the porterage for Mr. Norris, and

for nearly all the English and American houses, numbers forty. Each man

is paid about three cents to fill a bag or box, and four cents to carry

it to the wharf and put it aboard the lighter. It costs from one hundred

and fifty to two hundred dollars to discharge and load a moderate sized

ship.

I have frequently seen these gangs of negroes carrying cocoa to the

wharf. They were always chattering and singing merrily, and would stop

every few minutes to execute a kind of dance with the bags on their

heads, thus doubling their work. When the load was deposited, the

captain, who does no work himself unless his gang is pressed, arrays

them in military fashion, and marches them back for another load.

For carrying barrels, or other bulky and heavy articles of merchandise,

there are trucks, drawn by oxen.

Churches are large and abundant in Pará. The cathedral is one of the

finest churches in Brazil. Its _personnel_, consisting of dignitaries,

(_dignidades_,) canons, chorists, and other employés, numbers

seventy-four.

A large convent of the Jesuits, near the cathedral, having a very

ornate and pretty chapel attached, is now used as a bishop's palace,

and a theological seminary. The officers of the seminary are a rector,

a vice-rector, and six professors; its students number one hundred

and fifteen; its rental is about five thousand dollars, of which one

thousand is given from the provincial treasury; and it teaches Latin,

the languages, philosophy, theology, history, geography, and vocal and

instrumental music.

There are but two convents in Pará—one of the order of St. Anthony, and

one of Shod Carmelites.

I attended the celebration of the festival of the Holy Cross, in

the chapel of the convent of the Carmelites. There was a very large,

well-dressed congregation, and the church was redolent of the fragrance

of sweet-scented herbs, strewn upon the floor. There were no good

pictures in the church, but the candlesticks and other ornaments of the

altar were very massive and rich. In the insurrection of the Cabanos

the church property was spared; but I am told that, though they have

preserved their ornaments, the priests have managed their property

injudiciously, and are not now so rich in slaves and real estate as

formerly.

I imagine that the priesthood in Brazil, though quite as intelligent

and able as their brethren of Peru, have not so great an influence in

society here as there. This is seen in an anecdote told me of a rigid

_Chefe de Policia_, who forbid the clergy from burying one of their

dignitaries in the body of the church during the prevalence of the

yellow fever; but compelled them, much against their will, to deposit

the body in the public cemetery, and accompanied the funeral procession

on horseback to see that his orders were obeyed. It is also seen in the

fact that the provincial assembly holds its sessions in a wing of the

Carmelite convent, and that a part of the church of the Merced is turned

into a custom-house and a barracks.

There are forty-one public primary schools in the province, educating

one thousand and eighty-seven pupils. This gives a proportion of one

for every one hundred and six free persons in the province. Each pupil

costs the State about seven and a half dollars.

In the four schools of Latin, one person is educated in every five

hundred and sixty-four, at a cost of twenty-six dollars.

In the College of Pará, called "_Lyceo da Capital_," the proportion

educated is one to two hundred and eleven, at a cost of sixty-two

dollars.

There are two capital institutions of instruction in Pará—one for the

education of poor boys as mechanics, who are compelled to pay for their

education in labor for the State; and the other for the instruction

in the practical business in life of orphan and destitute girls. I

think that this education is compulsory, and that the State seizes upon

vagabond boys and destitute girls for these institutions. There is also

another school of _educandos_ for the army.

The province also maintains three young men for the purpose of complete

education in some of the colleges of Europe.

There are several hospitals and charitable institutions in the city,

among which is a very singular one. This is a place for the reception

of foundlings maintained by the city. A cylinder, with a receptacle in

it sufficiently large for the reception of a baby, turns upon an axis

in a window; any one may come under cover of night, deposit a child in

the cylinder, turn the mouth of the receptacle in, and walk away without

being seen. Nurses are provided to take charge of the foundling.

Though I pumped all my acquaintances, I could get no statistics

concerning this institution, or whether it was thought to be beneficial

or not. I judge, however, that for this country it is. Public opinion

here does not condemn, or at least treats very leniently, the sins of

fornication and adultery. This institution, therefore, while it would

tend to lessen the crime of infanticide, would not encourage the above

mentioned sins by concealment; for where there is no shame there is no

necessity for concealment. In speaking thus, I do not at all allude to

the higher classes of Brazil.

The executive and legislative government of the province is in a

president and four vice presidents, appointed by the Crown, and in a

legislative assembly.

The provincial assembly meets once a year, in the month of May. The

length of its sessions is determined by itself. It elects its own

presiding officer. It is a very inefficient representative system.

The people in the districts elect electors, who choose delegates and

_suplentes_, or proxies. Most of these proxies belong to the city; they

have little knowledge of the wants, and no sympathy with the feelings,

of the people they represent. Each delegate (at least this is the

case, in the province of Amazonas) is allowed one dollar and sixty-six

cents per diem; and the salary of the President of that province is one

thousand six hundred and sixty-six dollars and sixty six cents; it is

probable that the salary of the President of Pará is greater.

The police of the province is under the direction of a _chefe de

policia_, with delegados for each comarca, and sub-delegados for the

termos and municipios. These officers issue and visée passports, and

the traveller should always call upon them first.

The judiciary consists of _Juizes de direito_; three for the comarca

of the capital, and one for each of the other comarcas of the province,

besides _Juizes municipaès_, and _de orfaôs_. The Juiz de direito holds

a singular office, and exercises extraordinary powers; besides being

the judge, he presides over the jury, and has a vote in it. An appeal

lies from his court, both by himself and the defendant, to a higher

court, called the Court of _Relacâo_, which sits in Maranham and has

jurisdiction over the two provinces of Maranham and Pará. There are

three or four such courts in the empire, and an appeal lies from them

to the Supreme Court at Rio Janeiro.

Persons complain bitterly of the delay and vexations in the

administration of justice. I have heard of cases of criminals confined

in jail for years, both in Peru and Brazil, waiting for trial. It is

said also, though I know nothing of this, that the judges are very open

to bribery. I think, however, that this is likely to be the case, from

the entire inadequacy of the salaries generally paid by the government.

I believe that the Brazilian code is mild and humane, and I am sure that

it is humanely administered. The Brazilians have what I conceive to

be a very proper horror of taking life judicially. They do not shrink

in battle; and sudden anger and jealousy will readily induce them to

kill; but I imagine the instances of capital punishment are very rare

in Brazil.

The police of the city is excellent, but, except to take up a drunken

foreign sailor occasionally, it has nothing to do. Crime—such as

violence, wrong, stealing, drunkenness, &c.—is very rare in Pará.

Probably the people are too lazy to be bad.

The province covers an area of about 360,000 square miles, and has a

population of 129,828 free persons, with 33,552 slaves.

Much as it needs population, it has suffered, from time to time,

considerable drainage. It is calculated that from ten to twelve thousand

persons were killed by the insurrection of the Cabanos, in 1835. Since

that time ten thousand have been drawn from it as soldiers for the

southern wars; and the yellow-fever and small-pox, in one year, carried

off between four and five thousand more.

The war of the Cabanos was a servile insurrection, instigated and

headed by a few turbulent and ambitious men. The ostensible cause was

dissatisfaction with the provincial government. The real cause seems to

have been hatred of the Portuguese.

Charles Jenks Smith, then consul at Pará, writes to the Hon. John

Forsyth, under date of January 20, 1835:

"After the happy conclusion of the war on the Acará, this city has

remained in a state of perfect tranquility, until the morning of the

7th instant, when a popular revolution broke out among the troops, which

has resulted in an entire change of the government of this province.

"The President and the _General-das-Armas_ were both assassinated at the

palace, by the soldiers there stationed, between the hours of 4 and 5

a. m. Inglis, Commandant of the _Defensora_ corvette, and Captain of

the port, was also killed in passing from his dwelling to his ship. The

subaltern commissioned officers on duty were shot down by the soldiery,

who, placing themselves under the command of a sergeant named Gomez,

took possession of all the military posts in the city.

"About fifty prisoners were then set at liberty, who, in a body,

proceeded to a part of the city called Porto de Sol, and commenced an

indiscriminate massacre of all the Portuguese they could find in that

neighborhood. In this manner about twenty respectable shop-keepers and

others lost their lives.

"Guards were stationed along the whole line of the shore, to prevent

any person from embarking; and several Portuguese were shot in making

the attempt to escape."

A new President and General-das-Armas were proclaimed; but they

quarrelled very soon. The President, named Melchor, was taken prisoner

and murdered by his guards; and _Vinagre_, the General-das-Armas took

upon himself the government. In the conflicts incident to this change

about two hundred persons were killed. The persons and property of

all foreigners, except Portuguese, were respected. Many of these were

insulted, and some killed.

Vinagre held the city, in spite of several attempts of Brazilian

men-of-war to drive him out, until the 21st June, when, upon the arrival

of a newly-appointed President, he evacuated it. During these attempts

the British corvettes _Racehorse_ and _Despatch_, a Portuguese corvette,

and two French brigs-of-war, offered their services for protection to

the American consul.

On the 4th of August, Vinagre again broke into the city. The English

and Portuguese vessels landed their marines; but, disgusted with the

conduct of the President, withdrew them almost immediately.

The fire of the Racehorse, however, defeated Vinagre's attempt to get

hold of the artillery belonging to the city.

On the 23d of August, the President abandoned the city to the rebels

whose leader exerted himself to save foreign life and property,

permitting the foreigners to land from their vessels, and take from the

custom-house and their own stores the principal part of their effects.

The rebels held the city until the 13th of May, 1836, when they were

finally driven out by the legal authorities, backed by a large force

from Rio Janeiro. They held, however, most of the towns on the river

above Pará till late in the year 1837. They did immense mischief,

putting many whites to death with unheard-of barbarity, and destroying

their crops and cattle. The province was thus put back many years.

I think that the causes which gave rise to that insurrection still

exist; and I believe that a designing and able man could readily induce

the tapuios to rise upon their patrons. The far-seeing and patriotic

President Coelho always saw the danger, and labored earnestly for the

passage of efficient laws for the government of the body of tapuios,

and for the proper organization of the military force of the province.

His efforts in the latter case have been successful, and, very lately,

a good militia system has been established.

The city of Pará is supplied with its beef from the great island of

Marajo, which is situated immediately in the mouth of the Amazon. This

island has a superficial extent of about ten thousand square miles, and

is a great grazing country. Cattle were first introduced into it from

the Cape de Verde Islands, in 1644. They increased with great rapidity,

and government soon drew a considerable revenue from its tax on cattle.

Before the year 1824, a good horse might have been bought in Marajo for

a dollar; but about that time a great and infectious disease broke out

among the horses, and swept away vast numbers; so that Marajo is now

dependent upon Ceará and the provinces to the southward for its supply

of horses. I heard that the appearance of this disease was caused by

the fact that an individual having bought the right from the government

to kill ten thousand mares on the island, actually killed a great many

more; and the carcasses, being left to rot upon the plains, poisoned

the grass and bred the pestilence which swept off nearly all.

Other accounts state that the disease came from about Santarem and

Lago Grande, where it first attacked the dogs; then the _capiuaras_, or

river-hogs; then the alligators; and, finally, the horses. It attacks

the back and loins; so that the animal loses the use of his hind-legs.

Government sent a young man to France to study farriery, in hopes to

arrest the disease; but the measure was productive of no good results.

The disease still continues; and, ten years ago, appeared for the first

time in the island of _Mexiana_, not far from Marajó. Within the last

year, nearly all the horses on this island have died. I believe it has

never attacked the horned cattle.

Beeves are brought from Marajó to Pará in small vessels, fitted for the

purpose. They are frequently a week on the passage; and all this time

they are on very short allowance of food and water; so that, when they

arrive, they may almost be seen through.

The butchering and selling are all done under municipal direction; and

the price of beef is regulated by law. This is about five and a half

cents the pound. Gentlemen maintain horses and milch cows in Pará, or

its neighborhood. These are fed generally on American hay. Some small

quantity of grass is to be had from the _roçinhas_, or small farms, in

the environs of the city; and a tolerably good food for cattle is had

from a fine flour, found between the chaff and grain of rice. This is

called _muinha_, (_quim, in Maranham_,) and is very extensively used,

mixed with the chaff.

The island of Marajó is very much cut up with creeks, which, in the

rainy season, overflow the low land, and form marshes, which are the

graves of a great number of cattle. The cattle, at this season, are also

crowded together on the knolls of land that are above the waters in the

inundation, and many of them fall a prey to the ounces, which abound

on the island. These creeks are also filled with alligators. Mr. Smith,

former consul at Pará, told me that he had seen the carcass of one there

which was thirty feet long.

I saw a number of curious and beautiful animals in Pará. Mr. Norris had

some electric eels, and a pair of large and beautiful anacondas. I had

never heard a serpent hiss before I heard these, and the sound filled

me with disgust and dread. The noise was very like the letting off of

steam at a distance. The extreme quickness and violence with which they

darted from their coil (lacerating their mouths against the wire-work of

the cage) was sufficiently trying to a nervous man; and few could help

starting back when it occurred. These animals measured about eighteen

feet in length, and the skin, which they shed nearly every month,

measured eighteen inches in circumference. They seldom ate; a chicken

or a rat was given to them when it was convenient. They killed their

food by crushing it between their head and a fold of their body, and

swallowed it with deliberation. I imagine that they would live entirely

without food for six months.

Many gentlemen had tigers about their establishments. They were docile,

and playful in their intercourse with acquaintances; but they were

generally kept chained for fear of injury to strangers. Their play,

too, was not very gentle, for their claws could scarcely touch without

leaving a mark.

Mr. Pond, an American, had a pair of black tigers, that were the most

beautiful animals I have ever seen. The ground color of the body was a

very dark maroon; but it was so thickly covered with black spots that,

to a casual glance, the animal appeared coal black. The brilliancy of

the color—the savage glare of the eye—the formidable appearance of their

tusks and claws—and their evidently enormous strength—gave them a very

imposing appearance. They were not so large as the Bengal tiger; but

much larger than the common ounce. They were bred in Pará from cubs.

Electric eels are found in great numbers in the creeks and ditches

about Pará. The largest I have seen was about four inches in diameter,

and five feet in length. Their shock, to me, was unpleasant, but not

painful. Some persons, however, are much more susceptible than others.

Captain Lee, of the _Dolphin_, could not feel at all the shock of an

eel, which affected a lady so strongly as to cause her to reel, and

nearly fall. Animals seem more powerfully affected than men. Mr. Norris

told me that he had seen a horse drinking out of a tub, in which was one

of these eels, jerked entirely off his feet. It may be that the electric

shock was communicated directly to the stomach by means of the water he

was swallowing; but Humboldt gives a very interesting account of the

manner of taking these eels by means of horses, which shows that they

are peculiarly susceptible to the shock. He says:

"Impatient of waiting, and having obtained very uncertain results

from an electrical eel that had been brought to us alive, but much

enfeebled, we repaired to the _caño de Bera_ to make our experiments,

in the open air, on the borders of the water itself. To catch the

gymnoti with nets is very difficult, on account of the extreme agility

of the fish, which bury themselves in the mud like serpents. We would

not employ the barbasco. These means would have enfeebled the gymnoti.

The Indians, therefore, told us that they would 'fish with horses,'

'_embarbascar con cavallos_.' We found it difficult to form an idea of

this extraordinary manner of fishing; but we soon saw our guides return

from the _Savannah_, which they had been scouring for wild horses and

mules. They brought about thirty with them, which they forced to enter

the pool.

"The extraordinary noise caused by the horses' hoofs makes the fish

issue from the mud, and excites them to combat. These yellowish and

livid eels, resembling large aquatic serpents, swim on the surface

of the water, and crowd under the bellies of the horses and mules. A

contest between animals of so different an organization furnishes a

very striking spectacle. The Indians, provided with harpoons and long,

slender reeds, surround the pool closely, and some climb upon the trees,

the branches of which extend horizontally over the surface of the water.

"By their wild cries, and the length of their reeds, they prevent the

horses from running away and reaching the bank of the pool. The eels,

stunned by the noise, defend themselves by the repeated discharge

of their electric batteries. During a long time they seem to prove

victorious. Several horses sink beneath the violence of the invisible

strokes, which they receive from all sides, in organs the most essential

to life; and, stunned by the force and frequency of the shocks, they

disappear under the water. Others, panting, with mane erect, and haggard

eyes, expressing anguish, raise themselves, and endeavor to flee from

the storm by which they are overtaken. They are driven back by the

Indians into the middle of the water; but a small number succeed in

eluding the active vigilance of the fishermen. These regain the shore,

stumbling at every step, and stretch themselves on the sand, exhausted

with fatigue, and their limbs benumbed by the electric shocks of the

gymnoti.

"In less than five minutes two horses were drowned. The eel, being five

feet long, and pressing itself against the belly of the horse, makes

a discharge along the whole extent of its electric organ. It attacks,

at once, the breast, the intestines, and the _plexus cœliacus_ of the

abdominal nerves. It is natural that the effect felt by the horses

should be more powerful than that produced upon man, by the touch of

the same fish at only one of his extremities. The horses are probably

not killed, but only stunned. They are drowned from the impossibility

of rising, amid the prolonged struggle between the other horses and the

eels.

"We had little doubt that the fishing would terminate by killing,

successively, all the animals engaged; but, by degrees, the impetuosity

of this unequal combat diminished, and the wearied gymnoti dispersed.

They require a long rest and abundant nourishment, to repair what

they have lost of galvanic force. The mules and horses appear less

frightened. Their manes are no longer bristled, and their eyes express

less dread. The gymnoti approach timidly the edge of the marsh, when

they are taken, by means of small harpoons fastened to long cords. When

the cords are very dry, the Indians feel no shock in raising the fish

into the air. In a few minutes we had five large eels, the greater part

of which were but slightly wounded."

The shops of Pará are well supplied with English, French, and American

goods. The groceries generally come from Portugal. The warehouses are

piled with heaps of India-rubber, nuts, hides, and baskets of annatto.

This pigment is made from the seed of a bur, which grows on a bush

called urucu in Brazil, and achote in Peru. In the latter country it

grows wild, in great abundance; in the former, it is cultivated.

The seed is planted in January. It is necessary that the ground should

be kept clean, the suckers pulled up, and the tree trimmed, to prevent

too luxuriant a growth, and to give room, so that the branches shall not

interlock. The tree grows to ten or fifteen feet in height, and gives

its first crop in a year and a half. It afterwards gives two crops a

year. Each tree will give three or four pounds of seed in the year,

which are about the size of No. 3, shot, but irregular in shape. They

are contained in a prickly bur, about the size and shape of that of the

chincapin.

The burs are gathered just before they open, and laid in the sun to

dry, when the seed are trodden or beaten out. The coloring matter is

a red powder covering the seed, the principal of which is obtained

by soaking the seed in water for twenty-four hours, then passing them

between revolving cylinders, and grinding them to a pulp. The pulp is

placed in a sieve, called _gurupema_, made of cotton cloth; water is

poured on, and strains through. This operation is repeated twice more,

and the pulp is thrown away. The liquor strained off is boiled till

it takes the consistence of putty. A little salt is added, and it is

packed in baskets of about forty pounds, lined and covered with leaves.

It is frequently much adulterated with boiled rice, tapioca, or sand,

to increase the weight. The price in Pará is from three to five dollars

the arroba, of thirty-two pounds.

An examination of the following tables will give the best idea of the

commerce of Pará. The first is an official report furnished to the

provincial assembly by the President of the province.

------+------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------

| | Importation—Value. | Exportation—Value.

Years.| Places. +-----------+-----------+-----------+-----------

| |Relative to|Relative to|Relative to|Relative to

| |each place.|each year. |each place.|each year.

------+------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------

1846 |Great Britain | $160,050 | | $117,813 |

|France | 52,924 | | 107,791 |

|Portugal | 87,608 | | 123,156 |

|Hanse Towns | 19,993 | | 42,693 |

|United States | 235,105 | | 182,742 |

|Trieste | | | 3,818 |

|Genoa | | | 26,202 |

|Spain | 2,627 | | |

|Baltic ports | | | 12,188 |

|Belgium | 1,995 | $560,302 | 5,649 | $622,052

1847 |Great Britain | 211,442 | | 116,881 |

|France | 131,347 | | 162,546 |

|Portugal | 108,431 | | 128,548 |

|Hanse Towns | 20,519 | | 18,959 |

|United States | 230,531 | | 171,577 |

|Trieste | | | 17,182 |

|Genoa | 2,577 | | 22,705 |

|Belgium | 6,032 | 710,879 | 8,551 | 646,949

1848 |Great Britain | 149,774 | | 93,508 |

|France | 85,856 | | 114,701 |

|Portugal | 113,496 | | 146,933 |

|Hanse Towns | 9,576 | | 30,012 |

|United States | 219,777 | | 145,366 |

|Austrian dominions| 2,686 | | |

|Genoa | | | 11,609 |

|Denmark | 7,638 | | 10,205 |

|Belgium | 483 | 589,286 | 12,547 | 564,881

------+------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------

Here are tables furnished by Mr. Norris, United States consul at Pará:

American Commerce at Pará for 1850.

---------------+--------+-----+-----------------+-------------------

No. of vessels.|Tonnage.| Men.|Value of imports.| Value of exports.

---------------+--------+-----+-----------------+-------------------

33 | 5,452 | 275 | $420,186 | $522,293

---------------+--------+-----+-----------------+-------------------

British commerce for 1850.

---------------+--------+-----+-----------------+-------------------

No. of vessels.|Tonnage.| Men.|Value of imports.| Value of exports.

---------------+--------+-----+-----------------+-------------------

16 | 3,375 | 276 | $199,790 | $291,950

---------------+--------+-----+-----------------+-------------------

Commerce of Pará for 1851.

-----------+----------+----------+------+-----------+----------

| No. of | | | Value of | Value of

| vessels. | Tonnage. | Men. | imports. | exports.

-----------+----------+----------+------+-----------+----------

American | 30 | 4,574 | 226 | $425,484 | $476,210

English | 14 | 2,732 | 139 | 275,000 | 335,000

French | 10 | 536 | 99 | 122,830 | 188,699

Portuguese | 19 | 3,666 | 312 | 231,457 | 215,142

Hamburg | 2 | 510 | 18 | 27,500 | 131,000

Belgian | 2 | 320 | 20 | 5,250 | 16,250

Dane | 2 | 480 | 22 | 4,750 | 34,000

Swede | 2 | 420 | 22 | ····· | 28,500

-----------+----------+----------+------+-----------+----------

| 81 | 14,238 | 858 | 1,092,271 | 1,424,801

-----------+----------+----------+------+-----------+----------

I am indebted to Mr. Chaton, French consul at Pará, for the following

table, showing the mean yearly value of the articles of export from the

city of Pará.

-------------------+-------------------+-----------

Products. | Quantities. | Value.

-------------------+-------------------+-----------

India-rubber | 92,000 arrobas. | $552,000

Cocoa | 230,000 " | 270,900

Cotton | 6,126 " | 10,583

Cinnamon (rough) | 600 " | 1,633

Vegetable wax | 457 " | 69

Tonka beans | 80 " | 600

Isinglass | 998 " | 15,968

Piassaba rope | 42,192 " | 42,192

Gum-copal | 634 " | 634

Bones | 2,000 " | 640

Brazilian nutmeg | 1,020 " | 3,060

Rice (shelled) | 108,543 " | 65,126

Annatto | 7,210 " | 36,050

Sugar | 21,350 " | 36,012

Sarsaparilla | 3,897 " | 35,073

Nuts | 28,208 alquiers. | 18,952

Tapioca | 2,000 " | 3,000

Rice (in the husk) | 12,800 alquiers. | $6,400

Carajurú | 400 pounds. | 388

Green hides | 406,900 pounds. | 20,345

Guaraná | 3,450 pounds. | 1,500

Cattle | 300 | 4,500

Wood—Bardages | 349 | 614

De fer | 113 | 1,084

Madriers | 1,535 | 1,534

Planches | 52,217 feet. | 1,468

Dry hides | 15,000 | 19,445

Tiger skins | 228 | 456

India-rubber shoes | 192,000 pairs. | 38,400

Molasses | 2,888 pots. | 2,888

| +-----------

| | $1,171,514

-------------------+-------------------+-----------

To this sum is to be added the value of 7,338 canadas of balsam

copaiba, worth when I was there three dollars, now worth seven and a

half dollars; besides that of pots of oil made from the turtle, the

alligator, and the andiroba-nut, which M. Chaton has not included in

his list. These last, however, are inconsiderable.

Extracts of letters from Henry L. Norris, esq., United States consul at

Pará, to the Department of State:

"Merchandise, the produce of this country, is usually bought for cash,

or in exchange for the products of foreign countries by way of barter.

There are no allowances made by way of discount, nor is brokerage

paid for purchasing. Cash usually has the advantage over barter on

the price of produce to the amount of from five to ten per cent. The

American business is done chiefly for cash, while English, French, and

Portuguese, is chiefly for barter; dry goods, &c., are sold on long

credit, and produce taken in payment. With the latter the profits of

trade are on the outward cargo; while with the former, the profit, if

any, is with the homeward.

"There are no bounties or debentures of any kind allowed here.

"The usual commission for the purchase and shipment of goods is two and

a half per centum, and is the same on all descriptions of produce.

"The American trade, with few exceptions, is conducted either by

partners or agents of houses at home; consequently brokers are never

employed to buy produce, and no brokerage is paid. When foreign goods

are sold at auction, the commission paid is one per cent. on dry goods,

and one and a half on groceries.

"Merchandise is brought to market altogether by water, and is usually

delivered into the storehouses of the purchaser or on board the

shipping.

"Export duties are as follows:

"Meio dezimo, (for the church) 5 per cent.

"Exportacão, (for the government) 7 per cent.

"Vero pezo, (weighing) ½ per cent.

"Capitazia (paid for labor) quarter of a cent the arroba, on all kinds

of merchandise.

"These duties are levied on the custom-house valuation, which is made

at the beginning of each week, and not on the cost of the produce; as

in that cost is included a duty of five per cent. which is paid on some

articles when they are landed at the port of exportation. This last is

a provincial tax, which is levied on India-rubber, tapioca, and farinha.

"Produce coming from an interior province—such as dry hides—does not

pay the _meio dezimo_ of five per cent., as it is paid at the time

of embarking at the place of production; and this duty, together with

freight, labor, &c., enters into the cost price of the merchandise at

this port, which is the only shipping port for the provinces of Pará

and Amazonas.

"There are no dock, trade, nor city dues to be paid at this port.

"Lighters are hired at two dollars per day; they carry from forty to

fifty tons.

"Porterage is done by blacks, who place the cargo in the lighters at

prices varying, according to the distance carried, from three to four

cents per bag of cocoa, India-rubber, &c., and from six to eight cents

each for barrels and boxes.

"Nuts and rice in husk are delivered alongside the vessel at the expense

of the seller.

"Packages—such as boxes, barrels, and bags—are imported from the United

States, and with the exception of barrels, which come filled with flour,

pay a duty of thirty per cent.

"The cost of cooperage is eight cents per barrel. All local imports or

taxes are paid by the producer, and are included in the selling price

of the article. The purchaser receives with the merchandise a receipt

that the provincial duty has been paid, which receipt is demanded at

the time of exportation to a foreign country or to another province.

"There is so little intercourse with the States bordering on this

province, that there are no laws in force regulating the transit of

merchandise from Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, &c., but all merchandise coming

down the Amazon is considered as the produce or manufacture of Brazil.

"By a law of Brazil, the estate of any foreigner who may die in this

country is subject to the jurisdiction of the _Juiz dos Ausentes e

difuntos_. A will is no protection to the property, but it must be

'recovered, availed, and deposited in the public depository by a juiz

competente.' The getting hold of the property by the heirs to an estate

is a tedious and expensive process; and when the inheritance consists

of real estate, about twenty per cent. is consumed by taxes of various

kinds, and in some cases, by the collusion of the officers entrusted

with settlement, it has disappeared entirely. The French by treaty are

exempted from this.

"Not long since, at Maranham, a guard of soldiers was placed around

the dwelling of a foreigner about to die, and who was supposed to be

possessed of a large amount of personal property. A similar case also

occurred here, which has created alarm amongst those of our countrymen

who have property invested in this country; for should it be made to

appear that, upon the death of one or more of the partners of any of our

large mercantile houses, the affairs of the concern must pass into the

hands of a 'juiz competente,' it would have a serious effect upon the

credit and standing of all the citizens or subjects of those nations

which have no treaty with Brazil on this subject."

It remains for me but to express my grateful acknowledgments for

personal kindness and information afforded by many gentlemen of Pará,

particularly by Mr. Norris, the consul, and by Henry Bond Dewey, esq.,

now acting consul. These gentlemen were unwearied in their courtesy,

and to them I owe the information I am enabled to give concerning the

history and present condition of the province and the city.

On May 12th, by kind invitation of Captain Lee, I embarked in the United

States surveying brig Dolphin, having previously shipped my collections

on board of Norris's clipper barque the _Peerless_.

Exploration of the Valley of the Amazon, Part 1 (of 2) · 第 18 / 20 章