CHAPTER I.

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TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL.

[Illustration: THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.

_E Fry del._ _Reeve Lith._]

TRAVELS

IN THE

INTERIOR OF BRAZIL,

PRINCIPALLY

THROUGH THE NORTHERN PROVINCES,

AND

THE GOLD AND DIAMOND DISTRICTS,

DURING THE YEARS 1836-1841.

BY

GEORGE GARDNER, M.D., F.L.S.,

SUPERINTENDENT OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS OF CEYLON.

“A populous solitude of bees and birds,

And fairy-formed and many-colour’d things,

… the gush of springs,

And fall of lofty fountains, and the bend

Of stirring branches, and the bud which brings

The swiftest thought of beauty, here extend,

Mingling, and made by Love unto one mighty end.”

CHILDE HAROLD.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:

REEVE, BENHAM, AND REEVE,

KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND.

1849.

[Illustration]

REEVE, BENHAM, AND REEVE,

PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS OF SCIENTIFIC WORKS,

KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND.

TO

SIR WILLIAM JACKSON HOOKER,

K.H., D.C.L., LL.D., F.R.S.A., AND L.S.,

VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY, HONORARY MEMBER OF THE

ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY, MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY CÆSAR.

LEOPOLD. NATURAL. CURIOSORUM, ETC., ETC.,

AND

Director of the Royal Gardens of Kew,

TO WHOM THE SCIENCE OF BOTANY IS SO MUCH INDEBTED, ALIKE FOR

HIS LIBERAL PATRONAGE, AND THE CONTRIBUTIONS MADE TO IT IN THE

NUMEROUS AND VALUABLE WORKS WHICH HAVE ISSUED FROM HIS PEN,

THE FOLLOWING WORK,

CONTAINING THE NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS,

WHICH, BUT FOR HIS KINDNESS AND ENCOURAGEMENT,

COULD NEVER HAVE BEEN UNDERTAKEN,

IS INSCRIBED

WITH FEELINGS OF PROFOUND RESPECT AND ESTEEM,

BY HIS GRATEFUL FRIEND AND PUPIL,

GEORGE GARDNER.

PREFACE.

The present volume is not given to the public, because the Author

supposes it presents a better account of certain parts of the immense

Empire of Brazil, than is to be found in the works of other travellers,

but because it contains a description of a large portion of that

interesting country, of which no account has yet been presented to the

world. It has been his object to give as faithful a picture as possible

of the physical aspect and natural productions of the country, together

with cursory remarks on the character, habits, and condition of the

different races, whether indigenous or otherwise, of which the population

of those parts he visited is now composed. It is seldom that he has

trusted to information received from others on those points; and he

hopes that this fact will be considered a sufficient reason for his not

entering into desultory details more frequently than he has done.

Ample opportunities were offered for studying the objects he had in view,

of which he never ceased to avail himself. Besides visiting many places

along the coast his journeys in the interior were numerous; and, although

he never ventured, like Waterton—whose veracity is not to be doubted—to

ride on the bare back of an alligator, or engage in single combat with

a boa constrictor, yet he had his full share of adventure, particularly

during his last journey, which extended, north to south, from near the

equator to the twenty-third degree of south latitude; and east to west,

from the coast to the tributaries of the Amazon. The privations which the

traveller experiences in these uninhabited, and often desert countries,

can scarcely be appreciated by those who have never ventured into them,

where he is exposed at times to a burning sun, at others to torrents of

rain, such as are only to be witnessed within the tropics, separated

for years from all civilized society, sleeping for months together in

the open air, in all seasons, surrounded by beasts of prey and hordes

of more savage Indians, often obliged to carry a supply of water on

horseback over the desert tracks, and not unfrequently passing two or

three days without tasting solid food, not even a monkey coming in the

way to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Notwithstanding these, however,

and one serious attack of illness, his enthusiasm carried him through all

difficulties, and they have in some measure been repaid by the pleasure

which such wanderings always afford to the lover of nature, and by the

number of new species which he has been enabled to add to the already

long list of organized beings.

The Author has only further to add, that the notes from which the

Narrative has been drawn up, were, for the most part, written during

those hours, which, under other circumstances, should have been devoted

to sleep; and that the Narrative itself was principally compiled from

them, during a voyage from England to the Island of Ceylon.

Kandy, Ceylon, January 1st, 1846.

The manuscript of Mr. Gardner’s ‘Travels in Brazil’ having been

transmitted from Ceylon, and printed during his official residence

in that island, the Publishers feel desirous of expressing the great

obligation they are under to John Miers, Esq., in the absence of the

Author, for his valuable assistance in correcting the technical,

botanical, and Brazilian proper names, whilst passing through the press;

they also desire to record their sense of the kind services rendered by

Robert Heward, Esq., co-operating with Mr. Miers in reading the proofs.

London, October 1st, 1846.

CONTENTS

Page.

CHAPTER I.

RIO DE JANEIRO.

Motives for visiting Brazil—Voyage from England—Arrival at Rio

de Janeiro—Description of the City—Its Environs—Geological

Character of its Neighbourhood—Its Climate—Its

Inhabitants—State of Slavery in Brazil—General good treatment

of Slaves—Different Mixed Races—Excursion to the Mountains

surrounding the Capital—Its Botanical Garden—Museum of Natural

History 1

CHAPTER II.

JOURNEY TO AND RESIDENCE IN THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.

Principal Summer Resort of the English Residents—Journey from

Piedade to Magé and Frechal—Ascent of the Mountains—Description

of Virgin Forests—Mr. March’s Plantation in the Serra—Treatment

of his Slaves—Case of One bitten by a venomous Snake—Limb

amputated by the Author—Mode of Treatment in such cases among

the Natives—Charms—Tapir-Hunting in the Mountains—Beasts,

Birds, and Reptiles found there—Visit to a Brazilian

Fazendeiro—To Constantia—Ascent of the loftiest Peaks—Vegetable

Productions in those elevated regions—Pleasant Sojourn on the

Estate 28

CHAPTER III.

BAHIA AND PERNAMBUCO.

Departure from Rio de Janeiro—Arrival at Bahia—Description of

that City—Voyage to Pernambuco—Jangadas—Description of the City

and Environs of Pernambuco—The Jesuits—The Peasantry—Town

of Olinda—Its Colleges and Botanic Garden—Visit to the

Village of Monteiro—The German Colony of Catucá—The Island of

Itamaricá—Pilar—Salt Works of Jaguaripe—Prevalent Diseases in

the Island—Its Fisheries—Peculiar Mode of Capture 55

CHAPTER IV.

ALAGOAS AND THE RIO SAN FRANCISCO.

The Author’s Motive for this Excursion—Voyage to the

Southward—Description of the Coast and Observations on the

great Restinga—Reaches Barra de S. Antonio Grande—Arrives at

Maceio—Description of the Town and surrounding Country—Resolves

to visit the Rio San Francisco—Embarks in a Jangada and

coasts to the Southward—Batel—Lands at Peba—Journey thence

to Piassabassú on the Rio San Francisco—Ascends the River to

Penêdo—The Town described—Productions of the District—Its

Population—Voyage up the River—Mode of Navigation—Arrives at

Propihà—Vegetation of the Country—Description of a Market

Fair—Dress of the People—Voyage continued to Traipú—Passes the

Ilha dos Prazeres—Barra de Panêma—Abundance of Fish of the

Salmon Tribe—Village of Lagoa Funda—Island of S. Pedro—Its

Indian Population described—Continues the Voyage—Fearful

Storm—Return to S. Pedro, serious Illness and detention

there—Scarcity of Food—Renounces in consequence all intention

of proceeding further—Returns to Penêdo—Scheme for Navigating

the Rio San Francisco—Reason why it will never succeed—Arrives

again at Maceio—Visits Alagoas—That City described—Leaves

Maceio—Coasting Voyage—Singular Mode of catching Fish—Return to

Pernambuco 76

CHAPTER V.

CEARA.

PERNAMBUCO TO CRATO.

The Author leaves Pernambuco in a Coasting Vessel—Description

of the Voyage—Touches at Cape San Roque—Arrives at

Aracaty—Seaport of Province of Ceará—Town described—Its

Trade—Whole Province subject to great droughts—Commencement of

Journey into the Interior—Passes Villa de San Bernardo—Arid

nature of the Country—Catingas—Arrives at Icó—Town

described—Journey continued—Villa da Lavra de Mangabeira—Gold

Washings abandoned—Country begins to Improve—Reaches the

Villa do Crato—Town described—Low state of morals among the

Inhabitants—Sugar Plantations—Mode of Manufacture—Coarse

kind of Sugar formed into Cakes, called Rapadura, in which

state it is used throughout the Province—State of Cultivation

in the Neighbourhood—Productions of the Country—Serra de

Araripe—Different kinds of Timber—Wild Fruits—Wandering tribes

of Gypsies frequent—Great religious Festival—Climate—Diseases 113

CHAPTER VI.

CEARA CONTINUED.

Reasons for delaying journey into the Interior—Visits,

meanwhile, different places in the vicinity of Crato—Crosses

the Serra de Araripe—Reaches Cajazeira—Arrives at Barra do

Jardim—Description of that Town and Neighbourhood—Meets with

an interesting deposit of Fossil fishes—Geological character

of the Country—Detects a very extensive range of Chalk

formation—First discovery of such beds in South America—The

accompanying formation described—This range of Mountains

encircles the vast Plain comprising the Provinces of Piauhy

and Maranham—Arrives at Maçapé—Great Religious Festival

on Christmas Day—Meets with an accident—Visits also Novo

Mundo—Discovers other deposits of Fossil Fishes near these

places—Vegetable productions along the Taboleira—Different

Tribes of uncivilized Indians in that Neighbourhood—Curious

account of the fanatical sect of the Sebastianistas—Their

extravagant belief—Commit human sacrifices—Their destruction

and dispersion—Returns to Crato 150

CHAPTER VII.

CRATO TO PIAUHY.

Preparations for the Journey—Leaves Crato—Passes

Guaribas—Reaches Brejo grande—Discovers more Fossil

Fishes—Passes Olho d’Agoa do Inferno—Arrives at Poço

de Cavallo—Crauatá—Cachoeira—Marmeleira—Rosario—Os

defuntos—Lagoa—Varzea da Vaca—Angicas—Crosses the

boundary line of the Province of Piauhy—Arrives at San

Gonsalvo—Campos—Lagoa Comprida—Difficulties of the

road—Reaches Corumatá—Canabrava—Arrives at Boa Esperança, a

large Estate owned by an excellent Clergyman—Is now in the

midst of the great Cattle Districts—Nature of the Country

described—Marked into two kinds, Mimoso and Agreste—Passes

Santa Anna das Mercês—San Antonio—Cachimbinho—Vegetation of the

surrounding Country—Reaches Retiro—Buquerão—Canavieira—Crosses

the River Canindé, arrives at Oeiras, the Capital of the

Province of Piauhy 169

CHAPTER VIII.

OEIRAS TO PARNAGUÁ.

The Author’s reception by the President of Piauhy—City

of Oeiras described—Its Population—Its Trade with the

Coast—Great want of River Navigation—Its chief exports

are hides and cattle—Its Climate—Diseases—Character

of the Barão de Parnahiba—His great power in the

Province—History of this remarkable Man—And of the Civil War

on declaration of the Independence of Brazil—Resources of

the Province—National Cattle Farms—Course of the Author’s

journey quite changed by an alarming Revolt—This insurrection

described—He determines on travelling southwards through

Goyaz and Minas Geräes—Leaves Oeiras—Description of the

Country—Chapadas—Passes through many Cattle Farms—Curious

mode of catching Cattle—Passes Pombas—Algodoes—Golfes—Retiro

Alegre—Genipapo—Canavieira—Urusuhy—Prazeres—Description

of a Piauhy Family—Reaches Flores—Rapoza—Arrives at

Parnaguá—Universal Hospitality of the Natives—Salt found in

the Neighbourhood 193

CHAPTER IX.

PARNAGUÁ TO NATIVIDADE.

Leaves Parnaguá—Arrives at Saco do Tanque—Carrapatos a great

pest to Travellers and Cattle—Vegetation of the Country—Crosses

the Serras da Batalha and de Mato Grosso, the boundary of

the Province of Piauhy—Descends into the District of Rio

Preto—Account of the Cherente Indians—Arrives at Santa

Rosa—Crosses the River Preto—Reaches the desolate region of

Os Geräes—Passes over the elevated table-land Chapada da

Mangabeira—Arrives at the Indian Mission of Duro—Description

of these Indians—Reaches Cachoeira—Crosses the Serra do

Duro—Fords the River Manoel Alves—Arrives at Almas—Galheiro

Morto—Morhinos—Abundance of Wild Honey—Description of several

kinds of Bees—Reaches Nossa Senhora d’Amparo—Mato Virgem—Goître

not uncommon—Passes Sociedade—Arraial da Chapada—And arrives at

Natividade 223

CHAPTER X.

NATIVIDADE TO ARRAYAS.

The Town of Natividade described—Its Population—Dress and

Manners of the People—Its Climate—Diseases—Goître extremely

prevalent—Excursion to the neighbouring lofty Mountain

Range—Its Geology and Vegetation—Visits the Arraial da

Chapada—Leaves Natividade—Passes San Bento, and arrives at

the Arraial de Conceição—Its Population—Very subject to

Goître—Probable cause of this Complaint—Reaches Barra and

crosses the Rio de Palma—Arrives at Santa Brida—Stays at

Sapê—Account of the Animal and Vegetable Productions of

the Neighbourhood—Reaches the Villa de Arrayas—The Town

described—Geological Features of the surrounding Country—Its

Climate and Productions—Alarm of the Inhabitants—Muster of the

National Guard—Preparations for departure 256

CHAPTER XI.

ARRAYAS TO SAN ROMÃO.

Departure from Arrayas—Reasons for preferring the route

along the Serra Geral—Passes Gamelleira—Bonita—Reaches San

Domingo—San João—San Bernardo—Curious Fact respecting the

Rio San Bernardo—Passes Boa Vista—Country consists of very

elevated table-lands—Its Natural Productions—Arrives at Capella

da Posse—San Pedro—San Antonio—Dôres—Riachão—Animals greatly

tormented by large Bats—Habits of these Vampires—Reaches

San Vidal—Flight of Locusts—Passes Nossa Senhora

d’Abbadia—Campinhas—Pasquada—San Francisco—Crosses River

Carynhenha and enters the province of Minas Geräes—Country

described—Habits of the great Ant-eater—Passes Capão de

Casca—Descent of the Serra das Araras—Reaches San Josè—Rio

Claro—Boquerão—Santa Maria—Espigão—Taboca—San Miguel—Crosses

River Urucuya—Passes Riachão—Arrives at San Romão—Town

described—Its Population—Habits of the People—Rio de San

Francisco—Description of the different varieties of the Salmon

tribe found in it 286

CHAPTER XII.

SAN ROMÃO TO THE DIAMOND DISTRICT.

Leaves San Romão—Passes Guaribas—Passagem—Geräes

Velhas—Espigão—Caisára—Cabeceira—Arrives at the Villa

de Formigas—Town described—Account of the impostor

Douville—Country around rich in Botanical products—Passes

Viados—Arrives at the Arraial de Bomfim—Reaches San

Elo—Sitio—Comes to a Gold Working called Lavrinha—Crosses

the River Inhacica—Reaches As Vargems—Registo do Rio

Inhahy—Bassoras on the River Jiquitinhonha—Examines a Diamond

Mine—Formation in which the Diamond is found—Mode of working

it—Arrives at the Arraial de Mendanha—Town described—Ascends

the Serra de Mendanha—Reaches Duas Pontes—Arrives at the

Cidade Diamantina, formerly the Arraial de Tijuco, the

Capital of the Diamond District—Town situated on side of

hill—Description of its Population—Their mode of Dress—Its

cold Temperature—Productions of its Neighbourhood—Mining

for Diamonds, formerly a privileged Monopoly, now open to

all—Character of Miners—Extent of Diamond Mines—Privilege

of Slaves there employed—Climate very healthy—Women very

handsome—Complaints incident to its Climate—Loyalty shown by

its Inhabitants—Fatality among Horses 320

CHAPTER XIII.

CIDADE DIAMANTINA TO OURO PRETO.

Leaves the Cidade Diamantina—Reaches As Borbas—Passes

the Arraial do Milho—Tres Barras—Arrives at the

Cidade do Serro, formerly Villa do Principe—The Town

described—Passes Tapanhuacanga—Retiro de Padre Bento—N.S. de

Conceição—Description of an Iron Smelting Work at Girão—Vast

abundance of Iron Ores in this District—Reaches Escadinha—Morro

de Gaspar Soares and two other Iron Smelting Works and

Forges—Ponte Alta—Itambé—Passes Onça—Ponte de Machado, where

frost was seen—And arrives at Cocaes—Visits the large

Establishment of the Cocaes English Mining Company—The Author’s

unkind reception by the Director of that Establishment—Reaches

S. João do Morro Grande, part of the Mining Establishment

of the English Gongo Soco Company—Hospitable reception—And

visit to the Gold Mines—Its Workings described—Geological

structure of the Mines and the surrounding country—Leaves

Gongo Soco and passes Morro Velho—Rapoza—And reaches the

Establishment of another English Mining Company at Morro

Velho—The Author’s delight on receiving letters after two

years’ absence—His kind reception and abode there—Village

of Congonhas de Sabará described—Attached to the Gold Mines

of Morro Velho—Account of those Mines—Mode of working and

extracting Gold from the Ore—Visits the City of Sabará—Mining

Establishment of Cuiabá—Serra de Piedade—And Serra del

Curral del Rey—Leaves Morro Velho—Reaches the Villa de

Caëté—Passes S. José de Morro Grande—Barra—Brumado—Serra de

Caraça—Catas altas—Inficionado—Bento Rodriguez—Camargos—And

reaches San Caetano—Visits the City of Mariano—Passes the

Serra de Itacolumi—Arraial de Passagem—And arrives at the

City of Ouro Preto, formerly Villa Rica—City described—Its

Population—College and Botanic Garden 360

CHAPTER XIV.

OURO PRETO TO RIO DE JANEIRO, AND SECOND VISIT TO

THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.

Leaves Ouro Preto—Arrives at San Caetano—Passes Arraial de

Pinheiro—Piranga—Filippe Alvez—San Caetano—Pozo Alegre—Sadly

incommoded by a thunder-storm—Reaches Arraial das Mercês

Chapeo d’Uva—Entre os Morros—Crosses Rio Parahybuna—And

enters the Province of Rio de Janeiro—Passes Paiol—Reaches

Villa de Parahyba—Crosses the River Parahyba—Mode of Ferrying

described—Passes Padre Correa—Corrego Seco—Reaches summit Pass

of the Serra d’Estrella—Magnificent view of the Metropolitan

City, its Harbour, and surrounding Scenery—Arrives at Porto

d’Estrella—Embarks for the City and finally arrives at Rio

de Janeiro—All the Collections brought from the Interior are

arranged and shipped to England—The Author resolves again to

visit the Organ Mountains—His departure for the Serra—Adds

largely to his Collections—Ascends the loftiest peaks of

the Mountains—Their elevation above the sea about 7,500

feet—Departs on an excursion to the Interior—Passes the Serra

do Capim—Monte Caffé—Santa Eliza—Sapucaya—Porto d’Anta—Crosses

Rio Parahyba—Passes Barro do Louriçal—San José—Porto da

Cunha—Recrosses the Rio Parahyba—Reaches Cantagallo—Visits

Novo Friburgo—Description of these two Swiss Colonies—Pleasant

sojourn in the Organ Mountains 391

CHAPTER XV.

MARANHAM, VOYAGE TO ENGLAND, CONCLUSION.

Leaves the Organ Mountains and returns to Rio de

Janeiro—Embarks for England with large collections of living

and dried Plants—Touches at Maranham—City described—Its

Population—Public Buildings and Trade—Geology of its

Neighbourhood—Visits Alcantarà—Sails for England—Gulf Weed—Its

great extent and origin—Flying Fishes—Observations on their

mode of flight—Remarkable Phosphorescence at Sea—Description

of the singular Animal that causes this Phenomenon—Its curious

nests—Scintillations at Sea caused by a very minute kind of

Shrimp—Arrives in England—Concluding Remarks 418

[Illustration: MAP OF BRAZIL

Reeve, Benham & Reeve, lith.]

TRAVELS IN THE INTERIOR OF BRAZIL.

CHAPTER I.

RIO DE JANEIRO.

Motives for visiting Brazil—Voyage from England—Arrival at Rio

de Janeiro—Description of the City—Its Environs—Geological

Character of its Neighbourhood—Its Climate—Its

Inhabitants—State of Slavery in Brazil—General good treatment

of Slaves—Different Mixed Races—Excursion to the Mountains

surrounding the Capital—Its Botanical Garden—Museum of Natural

History.

Having devoted much of my leisure time, during the course of a

medical education, to the study of Natural History generally, but

more particularly to Botany; and my mind being excited by the glowing

descriptions which Humboldt and other travellers have given of the

beauty and variety of the natural productions of tropical countries, the

magnificence of their mountain scenery, and the splendour of their skies,

an ardent desire seized me to travel in such regions.

My early patron and teacher in Botany, Sir William J. Hooker, then

professor of that science in the University of Glasgow, aware of my

wishes, strongly recommended a voyage to some part of South America; and

Brazil was fixed on as the best field for my researches, as the vegetable

productions of that immense empire were then less known to the English

botanist than those perhaps of any other country of equal size in the

world. It was true that it had been visited both by German and French

naturalists, but no Englishmen, with the exception of Cunningham and

Bowie, and the intrepid Burchell, had penetrated into the interior; whole

provinces, particularly in the north, still lay open as virgin fields for

the investigations of some future traveller; and these I was desirous to

explore.

The preparations necessary for such an undertaking having been completed,

I left Glasgow on the 14th of May, 1836, and on the 20th of the same

month embarked at Liverpool, on board the barque Memnon, bound for Rio de

Janeiro, the capital of Brazil. The voyage across the Atlantic to South

America has been too often described for me to say more than that we had

a fair share of calms and squalls, of bright skies and brilliant sunsets,

of sharks and whales, flying fishes, and phosphorescent waves. A tedious,

but not unpleasant voyage, brought us in sight of land on the 22nd of

July. When day broke, Cape Frio, as had been predicted by the captain,

was seen, bearing N.N.E., about twenty-five miles distant. This Cape is

about seventy miles to the eastward of Rio de Janeiro, and a range of

high undulating hills stretches between them, covered to their topmost

ridge with trees. On their summits, numerous Palms, with their slender

shafts surmounted by a ball-like mass of leaves, rising far above the

other denizens of the forest, and standing boldly out in relief against

a beautiful blue sky, give a marked character to the scene, and silently

proclaim to the European his approach to a world the vegetation of which

is very different from that of the one he has so recently left. The winds

were light all day, and as we sailed close along the coast, my eye,

through the medium of the ship’s telescope, was constantly surveying the

wild but beautiful scene, and in imagination I was already revelling amid

its multiform natural productions.

It was long past noon before we reached the entrance to the Bay of Rio,

which is very remarkable for the number of conical hills and islands

which are to be seen on both sides of it. One of these hills is the

well-known Pão d’Açucar, so called from its resemblance to a sugar-loaf.

It is a solid mass of granite, rising to the height of about one thousand

feet, and destitute of vegetation, with the exception of a few stunted

shrubs on its eastern declivity. Seen from a great distance at sea, it

is an admirable land-mark for ships making the port. Passing through the

magnificent portal, we came to an anchor a few miles below the city, not

being allowed to proceed further till we were visited by the authorities.

It is quite impossible to express the feelings which arise in the mind

while the eye surveys the beautifully varied scenery which is disclosed

on entering the harbour—scenery which is perhaps unequalled on the face

of the earth, and on the production of which nature seems to have exerted

all her energies. Since then I have visited many places celebrated for

their beauty and their grandeur, but none of them have left a like

impression upon my mind. As far up the Bay as the eye could reach, lovely

little verdant and palm-clad islands were to be seen rising out of its

dark bosom, while the hills and lofty mountains which surround it on all

sides, gilded by the rays of the setting sun, formed a befitting frame

for such a picture. At night the lights of the city had a fine effect;

and when the land-breeze began to blow, the rich odour of the orange

and other perfumed flowers was borne seaward along with it, and, by me,

at least, enjoyed the more from having been so long shut out from the

companionship of flowers. Ceylon has been celebrated by voyagers for

its spicy odours, but I have twice made its shores with a land breeze

blowing, without experiencing anything half so sweet as those which

greeted my arrival at Rio.

On the following morning, the 23rd of July, I first put foot on the

shores of the great continent of the new world. If the aspect of the

country, and the nature of the vegetation were so different from those of

the old country, how much more strange were the human beings which first

met my sight on landing. The numerous small boats and canoes which ply

about in the harbour, are all manned with African blacks; the long narrow

streets through which we passed were crowded with the same race, nearly

naked, many of them sweating under their loads, and smelling so strongly

as to be almost intolerable. Scarcely a white face was to be seen. The

shops, in the most of which both the doors and windows are thrown open

during the day, seemed to be attended to by mulattos, or by Portuguese

of nearly as dark a hue. Seen from the ship in the morning, the city had

a most imposing appearance, from its position, and the number of its

white-washed churches and houses; but nearer contact with it dispelled

the illusion. The streets are narrow and dirty, and what with the stench

from the thousands of negroes which throng them, and the effluvia from

the numerous provision shops, the first impressions are anything but

agreeable. I could not help recalling to mind the lines in ‘Childe

Harold,’ which Byron has applied to the capital of the mother country:—

“But whoso entereth within this town,

That, sheening far, celestial seems to be,

Disconsolate will wander up and down,

’Mid many things unsightly to strange ee;

For hut and palace show like filthily:

The dingy citizens are reared in dirt.—”

The city of Rio occupies part of an irregular triangular tongue of

land, which is situated on the west side of the Bay, about three miles

northward from the entrance. The ground on which it stands is, for the

most part, level, but towards the north, the west, and the south-east,

it is bounded by a series of hills. The long narrow streets run at

right angles to each other, by which the houses are thrown into great

square masses. The new town stretches out in a north-west direction,

and is separated from the old one by a large square called the Campo de

Santa Anna. Beyond it a narrow branch of the Bay runs inland, to the

left of which is the extensive suburb of Catumbi, and farther on those

of Mataporco and Engenho Velho. Besides the Campo de Santa Anna there

are two other large squares, one before the theatre, and another at the

landing-place, in which is situated the palace formerly occupied by the

Viceroys. The Royal Palace of S. Cristovão, the residence of the Emperor,

is a great and irregular mass of building, situated a little way beyond

the new town.

Not only are the streets narrow and dirty, but they are also badly

lighted and worse paved, notwithstanding the city is immediately

surrounded by mountains of the most beautiful granite. The houses are

very substantially built, for the most part of granite, consisting

principally of only two or three stories. It contains several fine

churches, but few of them are so situated as to be seen to advantage.

That of Nossa Senhora da Gloria is one of the most conspicuous, being

placed on a rounded hill of the same name, that juts into the sea between

the city and the Praia de Flamengo. Besides the churches there are many

other public buildings, among which may be mentioned the Monastery of

San Bento, near the harbour, the Convent of Santa Thereza on the brow

of a hill, beside the noble aqueduct by which the water for the supply

of the city is conveyed from the mountains, a Mint, an Opera House, a

Theatre, a public Library, which is said to contain about one hundred

thousand volumes, a Museum of Natural History, a Medical School, two

Hospitals, and, what the inhabitants boast very much of, the Camara

dos Senadores, which is equivalent to our House of Lords. It is a very

handsome building, which was erected a few years ago on the north side

of the Campo de Santa Anna. Scattered through the city there are some

fine fountains, to which water is conveyed by an aqueduct. One of them

is in the palace square, for the supply of the ships in the harbour. The

aqueduct itself is upwards of six miles in length, and is terminated

city-wards by a magnificent row of double arches.

From an eminence within the city, called the Castle Hill, a fine view

both of the city and bay is obtained. It also commands a delightful

prospect of the country on the opposite side of the bay, with the city

of Nitherohy, or Praia Grande, in the foreground, and the lofty Organ

mountains towering in the distance to the left. There are many parts

of the country in the immediate neighbourhood of Rio, which remind a

Scotchman of some of the highland scenery of his native country, but

with this difference, that, whilst there the mountains are bleak and

barren, here they are covered to their summits with a luxuriant tropical

vegetation.

The great desire of the inhabitants seems to be to give a European air

to the city. This has already been accomplished to a great extent,

partly from the influx of Europeans themselves, and partly by those

Brazilians who have visited Europe, either for their education or

otherwise. It is but seldom now that those extraordinary dresses, both

of ladies and gentlemen, which we see represented in the publications

of those travellers who visited Rio, even in the early part of the

present century, are to be seen in the streets. A few old women only,

and those mostly coloured, are observed wearing the comb and mantilla;

and the cocked hat and gold buckles are also all but extinct. Now, both

ladies and gentlemen dress in the height of Parisian fashion, and both

are exceedingly fond of wearing jewellery. One of the finest streets in

the city is the Rua d’Ouvidor, not because it is broader, cleaner, or

better paved than the others, but because the shops in it are principally

occupied by French milliners, jewellers, tailors, booksellers,

confectioners, shoe-makers, and barbers. These shops are fitted up with

an elegance which the stranger is quite unprepared to meet. Many of them

are furnished with windows formed of large panes of plate glass, similar

to those which are now so common in every large town in Great Britain.

Indeed, it is the Regent Street of Rio, and in it almost any European

luxury can be obtained.

A few years ago omnibusses were started to run from the city to the

different suburbs. Small steamers ply regularly between Rio and the city

of Nitherohy on the opposite side of the bay, and one runs daily to

Piedade at the head of it. There is a yearly exhibition of the fine arts,

in which are exposed many tolerable pictures, both by native and foreign

artists. Music is very much cultivated, and the piano, which at the time

when Spix and Martius visited Rio, in 1817, was only to be met with in

the richest houses, has now become almost universal. The guitar was

formerly the favourite instrument, as it still is all over the interior.

There are excellent schools for the education of boys; and boarding

schools have been established for young ladies, which are conducted on

the same principles as those of a similar nature in England. Being the

capital of the empire, and there being residents at the court from most

of the European nations, Rio is the scene of much greater gaiety than

is generally supposed by those who have never visited it. But as all

these matters have been more learnedly “discoursed of” than I profess to

be able to do, I shall pass over in silence the levees, the opera, the

theatres, whether French or Portuguese, and the balls, public as well as

private, which engross quite as much of the attention of the fashionable

world here as elsewhere.

Of the many European merchants established here, who for the most part

are English, few reside in the city, most of them having country houses

in the suburbs. One of the most fashionable resorts is a lovely spot

about two miles out, called Botafogo. There the houses are built along

the semicircular shore of a quiet bay, which is nearly surrounded by

high hills. Immediately behind the houses, and almost overhanging them,

stands a very remarkable mountain called the Corcovado, which rises to

upwards of two thousand feet above the level of the sea, about two-thirds

of its eastern face being a perpendicular precipice. Many other European

residences are situated in Catete and on the Praia de Flamengo, between

Botafogo and the city; and in the Larenjeiras valley, which stretches up

from Catete towards the mountains; others exist at the opposite extremity

of the city, in the district of Engenho Velho.

There is one thing wanting in the neighbourhood of Rio which no large

city should be without—a public drive. This, I find in India, is a point

particularly attended to, whenever, even a few, Europeans are located

together. At Rio, those who wish to take a morning or an evening drive,

can only do so on the public roads, which are only fit for carriages to

run on for a few miles out of the city. There is, indeed, quite close

to it what is called the Passeio Publico, a large garden with shady

walks, but it is only intended for those who walk. Of an evening, when

the weather is fine, it is much frequented by the citizens. The Botanic

Garden, which is about eight miles distant from the city, is a place of

great resort.

On landing, I took up my residence at an Italian hotel, in one of the

principal streets, but as this was not a place fitted to my pursuits, as

soon as all my luggage was landed, I removed to the boarding-house of an

old English lady, who had then been about thirty years in the country.

It was about three or four miles from the city, situated in a beautiful

valley which stretches from the suburb of Engenho Velho towards the

Corcovado mountain, and called Rio Comprido, from a small stream so named

which runs through it. Here I had my head-quarters for about five months,

and during that period my excursions extended in all directions round the

city. Frequent visits were made to the mountains, which are all covered

with dense virgin forests—to the humid valleys—to the swampy tracts which

lie to the north of the city—to the sea-shores—and to the islands in the

bay. From these rambles there resulted a rich botanical harvest, besides

numerous specimens belonging to other branches of natural history. But as

an eternal spring and summer reign in this happy climate, and as almost

every plant has its own season for the production of its flowers, every

month is characterized by a different flora. It is, then, scarcely to be

expected that a residence of but a few months can afford more than a very

partial knowledge of its vegetable riches.

The whole of the country around Rio is essentially granitic, all the

rocks being of that nature to which the name of Gneiss-granite has been

applied, from their possessing decided marks of stratification. The

mountains generally run in chains having no particular direction, and are

of all sizes, from slight eminences to mountains which rise from 2,000 to

3,000 feet above the level of the sea. The loftier of these mountains,

such as the Peak of Tejuca, the Corcovado, and the Gavea, have their

south-east sides bare and precipitous, while those to the northward have

a gradual ascent, and are wooded to their summit. Notwithstanding the

enormous length of time which the sides of these mountains have been

covered with their mighty forests, the alluvial layer of soil which rests

on them is very thin. This, however, may be accounted for by the heavy

rains washing it, as well as the materials from which it is formed, down

into the valleys, where the alluvium is often found to be many feet

deep. Hence it is that the deep valleys which intersect the mountain

ranges are the principal seats of agricultural industry; and some of

them, particularly in the vicinity of the city, are thickly studded with

habitations, surrounded with plantations of Coffee, Oranges, Bananas,

and Mandioca. Many of the lower hills near the city are now also cleared

and planted with Coffee, but the plantations were too young when I

left to form any idea of their success at so low a level. Beneath the

alluvium there is a bed of reddish-coloured clay, which is very tenacious

when wet. It is often from thirty to forty feet in thickness, and is

not peculiar to the province, as I have met with it in every part of

Brazil where I have travelled. It frequently contains numerous boulders,

consisting of rounded, as well as angular, fragments of Gneiss, Granite,

and Quartz, and is often inter-stratified with various beds of sand

and gravel. It is obvious then from these observations, that the soil

around Rio itself is not generally rich. Indeed, the first thing which

strikes a stranger on his arrival, is the apparent poverty of the soil

contrasted with the richness of the vegetation. But for the humidity of

the atmosphere, the heavy dews of the dry season, and the rains of the

wet, combined with the heat of a tropical sun, the greater part of the

country immediately surrounding Rio would not be worthy of cultivation.

The very small quantity of soil which suffices for some plants is

quite astonishing to a European. Rocks, on which scarcely a trace of

earth is to be observed, are covered with _Vellozias_, _Tillandsias_,

_Melastomaceæ_, _Cacti_, _Orchideæ_, and _Ferns_, and all in the vigour

of life.

The climate of Rio has been very much modified by the clearing away of

the forests in the neighbourhood. Previous to this, the seasons could

scarcely be divided into wet and dry as they are at present. Then rains

fell nearly all the year round, and thunder-storms were not only more

frequent, but more violent. So much has the moisture been reduced, that

the supply of water for the city has been considerably diminished, and

the government has, in consequence, forbidden the further destruction of

the forests on the Corcovado range, towards the sources of the aqueduct.

During the months of May, June, July, August, and September, the climate

is usually delightful, being the dry as well as the cool season. The mean

temperature of the year is 72°. Although frequent showers fall during the

dry season, yet they are not to be compared with the continued rains of

the other, which generally commence in October. The rainy season sets in

with heavy thunder-storms, which are of most frequent occurrence in the

afternoon.

The population of Rio consists principally of Portuguese and their

descendants, both white and coloured; those only born in the country are

styled Brazilians; and ever since its independence as an empire in 1820,

a very bad feeling has existed between them and those who are natives of

Portugal. But this feeling is less common among the higher than the lower

orders, and is, perhaps, more strongly marked in the inner provinces than

on the coast. Wherever any riot, or any attempt to revolt takes place

in the interior—and such occurrences are now, unfortunately, but too

common—the poor Portuguese are the first to fall victims, being butchered

without mercy, and robbed of all they possess. Notwithstanding the ill

usage they receive, hundreds of them arrive yearly to push their fortune

in the country, which, at one time, formed the richest gem in the crown

of Portugal. Many of those who call themselves white in Brazil, scarcely

deserve the title, as few of those families who have been long in the

country, have preserved the purity of the original stock. The inhabitants

of Rio are in general short and slightly made, and form a great contrast

to the tall and handsome inhabitants of the Provinces of San Paulo and

Minas Geräes, and even those of several of the northern provinces. The

Brazilian wherever he is met with is always polite, and but very seldom

inhospitable, especially in the less frequented parts of the country. He

is much more temperate in his drinking than in his eating, and much more

addicted to snuff-taking as well as to smoking: hence the prevalence of

dyspeptic and nervous complaints among them. Marriage is less common in

Brazil than in Europe, a fact which accounts for the greater laxity of

morals which exists here among both sexes. The women are generally short,

and when young are pretty agreeable, but as they increase in years

they mostly get very corpulent, from their living well and taking but

little exercise. In Rio and the other large towns, they always make their

appearance when strangers call, but such is not the case in most parts

of the interior; there they still remain shy, but with an abundance of

curiosity. I have lived for a week at a time in houses where I was well

aware there were ladies, without ever seeing more of them than their dark

eyes peering through the chinks about the doors of the inner apartments.

In the distant province of Goyaz, Matto-Grosso, and Piauhy, nearly all

classes of them are as much addicted to the use of the pipe as the men.

It is but very seldom that native Indians are to be seen in Rio; I was

several months in the country before I saw one. The brown boatmen, in the

harbour, who have been taken for Indians, are, as Spix and Martius have

already observed, mulattoes of various shades of colour.

Much has been written on slavery as it exists in Brazil. It is a subject

of great importance, and demands a much greater amount of observation

than has generally occurred to those who have written on it at greatest

length. Those have mostly been voyagers, _en passant_, who have derived

their knowledge from others, and not from personal observation. The most

ridiculous stories are told by the European residents to strangers on

their arrival, as I well know from personal experience. One of the more

recent works on Brazil, which on its appearance was the most accredited

in Europe, is, perhaps, the least to be depended on. I have good

authority for stating that the author noted down every statement that was

made to him, however extraordinary, without the slightest examination as

to its truth. More than one individual has informed me, that at dinner

parties, they have heard persons present, who were more famed for their

wit than their veracity, cramming him with information about Brazil,

which, in truth, was worse than no information at all; but everything

seemed to be acceptable, and was immediately entered in his note-book.

In the year 1825, Humboldt estimated the entire population of Brazil at

about 4,000,000; of this number he calculated that 920,000 were whites,

1,960,000 negroes, and 1,120,000 mixed races and native Indians. Here

the proportion of the coloured races to the white is about three to

one. Later estimates give an entire population of 5,000,000; and the

proportion of the coloured race to the whites stands as four to one. It

was supposed at the time when the law was passed to render illegal the

introduction of new slaves, that the proportional number would speedily

decline. Had this law been strictly observed, such would, no doubt,

have been the case, as it is well known that the number of births falls

far short of the deaths among the slave population in Brazil. This does

not arise from their ill usage, as some writers have supposed, but from

the well-known fact that a greater proportion of males than of females

has at all times been introduced to the country. On some estates in the

interior the proportion of females to males is often as low as one to

ten. In the Diamond District, in particular, females are very scarce.

The law, however, has not been attended to, and the consequence of

incessant introduction is, that the number of slaves in the country has

not declined. During the five years which I spent in Brazil, I have good

reason for believing that the supply was always nearly equal to the

demand, even in the most distant parts of the empire.

Notwithstanding the vigilance of the cruisers both on the coast of Brazil

and that of Africa, it was well known to every one in Rio, that cargoes

of slaves were regularly landed even within a few miles of the city;

and during several voyages which I have made in canoes and other small

craft along the shores of the northern provinces, I have repeatedly

seen cargoes of from one to three hundred slaves landed, and have heard

of others. There are many favourite landing-places between Bahia and

Pernambuco, particularly near the mouth of the Rio San Francisco. Again

and again, while travelling in the interior, I have seen troops of new

slaves of both sexes, who could not speak a single word of Portuguese,

varying from twenty to one hundred individuals, marched inland for sale,

or already belonging to proprietors of plantations. These bands are

always under the escort of armed men, and those who have already been

bought, are not unfrequently made to carry a small load, usually of

agricultural implements. There is no secrecy made of their movements,

nay, magistrates themselves are very often the purchasers of them. It is

likewise well known that the magistrates of those districts where slaves

are landed, receive a certain per-centage on them as a bribe to secrecy.

The high price which they bring in the market, is a very great temptation

to incur the risk of importing them. It is said that if only one cargo be

saved out of three, that one will cover the whole expenses, and leave a

handsome profit besides.

Previous to my arrival in Brazil, I had been led to believe, from the

reports that have been published in England, that the condition of the

slave in that country was the most wretched that could be conceived; and

the accounts which I heard when I landed—from individuals whom I now find

to have been little informed on the point—tended to confirm that belief.

A few years’ residence in the country, during which I saw more than has

fallen to the lot of most Europeans, has led me to alter very materially

those early impressions. I am no advocate for the continuance of slavery;

on the contrary, I should rejoice to see it swept from off the face of

the earth—but I will never listen to those who represent the Brazilian

slave-holder to be a cruel monster. My experience among them has been

very great, and but very few wanton acts of cruelty have come under my

own observation. The very temperament of the Brazilian is adverse to its

general occurrence. They are of a slow and indolent habit, which causes

much to be overlooked in a slave, that by people of a more active and

ardent disposition, would be severely punished. Europeans, who have this

latter peculiarity more strongly inherent in them, are known to be not

only the hardest of task-masters, but the most severe punishers of the

faults of their slaves.

In Brazil, as in all other countries, there is more crime in large

towns than in the agricultural districts. This arises from the greater

facilities which exist in the former for obtaining ardent spirits; yet,

among the black population, intoxication is not often observed, even

dense as it is in Rio de Janeiro. It was on a Sunday morning that I

arrived in Liverpool from Brazil, and during the course of that day I

saw in the streets a greater number of cases of intoxication, than, I

believe, I observed altogether among Brazilians, whether black or white,

during the whole period of my residence in the country. In the large

towns the necessity for punishment is of frequent occurrence. The master

has it in his own power to chastise his slaves at his own discretion.

Some, however, prefer sending the culprit to the Calabouça, where, on

the payment of a small sum, punishment is given by the police. Many

of the crimes for which only a few lashes are awarded, are of such a

nature that in England would bring upon the perpetrator either death or

transportation. It is only for very serious crimes that a slave is given

up entirely to the public tribunals, as then his services are lost to the

owner, either altogether, or at least for a long period.

On most of the plantations the slaves are well attended to, and appear to

be very happy. Indeed, it is a characteristic of the negro, resulting no

doubt from his careless disposition, that he very soon gets reconciled to

his condition. I have conversed with slaves in all parts of the country,

and have met with but very few who expressed any regret at having been

taken from their own country, or a desire to return to it. On some of the

large estates at which I have resided for short periods, the number of

slaves often amounted to three or four hundred, and but for my previous

knowledge of their being such, I could never have found out from my

own observations that they were slaves. I saw a set of contented and

well-conditioned labourers turning out from their little huts, often

surrounded by a small garden, and proceeding to their respective daily

occupations, from which they returned in the evening, but not broken and

bent down with the severity of their tasks. The condition of the domestic

slave is, perhaps, even better than that of the others; his labour is

but light, and he is certainly better fed and clothed. I have almost

universally found the Brazilian ladies kind both to their male and female

domestic slaves; this is particularly the case when the latter have acted

as nurses. On estates, where there has been no medical attendant, I have

often found the lady of the proprietor attending to the sick in the

hospital herself.

Slaves, however, are variously inclined; from the very nature of a

negro—his well-ascertained deficient intellectual capacity—the want of

all education—the knowledge of his position in society, and the almost

certainty of his never being able to raise himself above it—we need not

wonder that there should be among them some who are restless, impatient

of all control, and addicted to every vice. It is the frequent necessity

which arises for the punishment of the evil-disposed, that has led to

the supposition of the indiscriminate and universal use of the lash. If

the intellectual capacity of the negro be contrasted with the native

Indian, it will not be difficult, on most points, to decide in favour of

the latter. It is no small proof of the deficient mental endowment of

the negro, that even in remote parts of the empire, three or four white

men can keep as many as two or three hundred of them in the most perfect

state of submission. With the Indian this could never be accomplished,

for they too once were allowed to be held as slaves, and even still are,

on the northern and western frontier, although contrary to law. The

Indian has the animal propensities less fully developed than the negro;

hence he is more gentle in his disposition, but at the same time, is much

more impatient of restraint.

The character and capacity of the negro vary very much in the different

nations. Those from the northern parts of Africa are by far the finest

races. The slaves of Bahia are more difficult to manage than those of any

other part of Brazil, and more frequent attempts at revolt have taken

place there than elsewhere. The cause of this is obvious. Nearly the

whole of the slave population of that place is from the Gold Coast. Both

the men and the women are not only taller and more handsomely formed than

those from Mozambique, Benguela, and the other parts of Africa, but have

a much greater share of mental energy, arising, perhaps, from their near

relationship to the Moor and the Arab. Among them there are many who both

read and write Arabic. They are more united among themselves than the

other nations, and hence are less liable to have their secrets divulged

when they aim at a revolt.

To sum up these observations, I have had ample opportunity, since I

left South America, for contrasting the condition of the slave of that

country with that of the coolie in the Mauritius and in India, but more

particularly in Ceylon; and were I asked to which I would give the

preference, I should certainly decide in favour of the former, although,

at the same time I could not but exclaim with Sterne, “still, Slavery!

still thou art a bitter draught!”

A general rise of the black population is much dreaded in Brazil, which

is not unreasonable, when the great proportion it bears to the white is

taken into consideration. Were they all united by one common sympathy,

this would have happened long ago, but the hostile prejudices existing

among the different races of Africans, have hitherto prevented it. In

the northern and interior provinces, considerable encouragement to their

insubordination has been offered, by the general feeling that animates

a large proportion of the free class, who are mostly of mixed blood,

and who desire to throw off the yoke of monarchy and replace it by a

republican form of government, a feeling which I know to be general, not

only among the lower orders, but among the magistrates, priests, officers

in the army, and owners of landed property, and hence I believe the time

is not far distant, when Brazil will share the fate of the other South

American states. In such an event the white population will be sure to

suffer from the savage rapacity of the mixed races, especially those who

have African blood in them: for it is to be remarked, that the worst

of criminals spring from this class, who inherit in some degree the

superior intellect of the white, while they retain much of the cunning

and ferocity of the black; they are mostly free, and bear no good will

towards the whites, who form the smaller part of the entire population.

It should be observed, however, that in the class of wealthier landed

proprietors and commercial men, who have received the benefits of

a more liberal education, especially those nearer the capital, and

those belonging to the provinces along the coast, this tide of public

opinion, that at one time nearly threatened the ruin of the empire,

has been in a great measure arrested, and many of those who formerly

advocated republican principles, are now the staunchest supporters of the

constitutional monarchy, convinced of its being the strongest guarantee

they can have for the security of their lives and property, and the

developement of the industry and resources of the empire.

In Brazil the mixed races receive different names from those in the

Spanish territories. The offspring of Europeans and negroes are called

_Mulattos_; those of Europeans and native Indians, _Mamelucos_; those

of the negro and Indian, _Caboclos_; while those which spring from the

mulatto and negro are called _Cabras_; the term _Creole_ is applied to

the offspring of the negroes.

I considered myself fortunate, shortly after my arrival at Rio, to make

the acquaintance, and gain the friendship, of a family that had already

travelled in distant parts of South America. It is only he who, day after

day, is pursuing his solitary rambles through the dark forests, in the

shady glens, on the mountain summits, or by the surf-beaten shores of

such a country as Brazil, where all is new, and all is strange, who can

fully estimate the privilege of being received with welcome into a family

whose leisure hours are devoted to pursuits similar to his own. Many of

my excursions in the vicinity of Rio, were undertaken in company with

these friends, and to their local knowledge of the country I owe some

of my finest botanical acquisitions. To them, as well as to most of the

English residents at Rio, I am indebted for many attentions during the

different periods of my residence in that neighbourhood.

In order to present some general idea of the splendid scenery of the

country, and the leading features of this part of Brazil, I will give an

account of some of these excursions. There is a path by the side of the

great aqueduct which has always been the favourite resort of naturalists

who have visited Rio; and there is certainly no walk near the city so

fruitful either in insects or plants. The following notes were made on

the return from my first visit along the whole length of the aqueduct.

After reaching the head of the Laranjeiras valley, which is about two

miles in extent, the ascent becomes rather steep. At this time it was

about nine A.M., and the rays of the sun, proceeding from a cloudless

sky, were very powerful; but a short distance brought us within the

cool shade of the dense forest which skirts the sides of the Corcovado,

and through which our path lay. In the valley we saw some very large

trees of a thorny-stemmed _Bombax_, but they were then destitute both of

leaves and flowers, nearly all the trees of this tribe being deciduous.

There we also passed under the shade of a very large solitary tree which

overhangs the road, and is well known by the name of the Pao Grande. It

is the _Jequetibá_ of the Brazilians, and the _Couratari legalis_ of

Martius. Considerably further up, and on the banks of a small stream that

descends from the mountain, we found several curious _Dorstenias_, and

many delicate species of Ferns. We also added here to our collections

fine specimens of the Tree-fern (_Trichopteris excelsa_), which was the

first of the kind I had yet seen. The forests here exhibited all the

characteristics of tropical vegetation. The rich black soil, which has

been forming for centuries in the broad ravines from the decay of leaves,

&c., is covered with herbaceous ferns, _Dorstenias_, _Heliconias_,

_Begonias_, and other plants which love shade and humidity; while above

these rise the tall and graceful Tree-ferns, and the noble Palms, the

large leaves of which tremble in the slightest breeze. But it is the

gigantic forest trees themselves which produce the strongest impression

on the mind of a stranger. How I felt the truth of the observation of

Humboldt, that, when a traveller newly arrived from Europe penetrates for

the first time into the forests of South America, nature presents itself

to him under such an unexpected aspect, that he can scarcely distinguish

what most excites his admiration, the deep silence of those solitudes,

the individual beauty and contrast of forms, or that vigour and freshness

of vegetable life which characterize the climate of the tropics.[1] What

first claims attention is the great size of the trees, their thickness,

and the height to which they rear their unbranched stems. Then, in place

of the few mosses and lichens which cover the trunks and boughs of the

forest trees of temperate climes, here they are bearded from the roots to

the very extremities of the smallest branches, with Ferns, _Aroideæ_,

_Tillandsias_, _Cacti_, _Orchideæ_, _Gesnereæ_, and other epiphytous

plants. Besides these, many of the larger trunks are encircled with the

twining stems of _Bignonias_, and shrubs of similar habit, the branches

of which frequently become thick, and compress the tree so much, that it

perishes in the too close embrace. Those climbers, again, which merely

ascend the trunk, supporting themselves by their numerous small roots,

often become detached after reaching the boughs, and, where many of them

exist, the stem presents the aspect of a large mast supported by its

stays. These rope-like twiners and creeping plants, passing from tree to

tree, descending from the branches to the ground, and ascending again to

other boughs, intermingle themselves in a thousand ways, and render a

passage through such parts of the forest both difficult and annoying.

Having reached, by mid-day, the level on which the water of the aqueduct

is brought from its source, we continued our walk along it for upwards

of two miles. Our progress, however, was slow, from the number of new

objects continually claiming our attention. In damp shady spots by

the side of the aqueduct we found the common water-cress (_Nasturtium

officinale_) of Europe, which is one of the few plants that are truly

cosmopolite; and on the rocks grew some little European mosses, which,

being old acquaintances, recalled pleasing thoughts of home. Numerous

ferns, and many strange-leaved _Begonias_ grew along the side of the

little stream. While collecting specimens of a moss, I had a providential

escape from a poisonous snake: I caught it in my hand along with a

handful of the moss, which was soon dropped when I perceived what

accompanied it. Venomous snakes are not uncommon in the province of Rio

de Janeiro; but accidents do not so often result from them as might be

supposed.

About seven o’clock P.M., we regained the spot where we had left the

servants, the horses, and the materials for our dinner; and by the time

we had partaken of this repast, darkness had already set in. As the road

is by no means of easy descent, even by day, we should not have thought

of remaining so long, had we not been certain of moonlight. During the

half hour we delayed for the rising of the moon, we listened to the

sounds produced by the various animals which are in a state of activity

at this hour of the evening. Pre-eminent above all the others, is that

emitted by the blacksmith frog; every sound which he produces ringing in

the ear like the clang of a hammer upon an anvil, while the tones uttered

by his congeners strikingly resemble the lowing of cattle at a distance.

Besides these, the hooting of an owl, the shrill song of the cicada, and

the chirping of grasshoppers, formed a continued concert of inharmonious

tones; while the air was lighted up by the fitful flashes of numerous

fire-flies.

When the moon rose we continued our journey, but the lowering clouds,

together with the dark shade of the overhanging trees, prevented our

deriving much advantage from its light. When we emerged from the forest

and gained a glimpse of the horizon, everything betokened an approaching

storm. Towards the north lay a mass of the darkest clouds, whence

streamed, from time to time, sheets of the most brilliant lightning. This

continued till we reached home, shortly after ten o’clock, and we were

scarcely seated when the storm broke forth in all its fury, accompanied

with a deluge of rain.

From various parts of the watercourse fine views of the low country

are obtained. The finest, perhaps, is that which discloses the Lake of

Rodrigo Freitas. We looked, as it were, through a large portal; on the

left is the Corcovado, covered with a dense forest of various tinted

foliage, and on the right, the nearly perpendicular face of another

mountain, covered with a few _Cacti_ and other succulent plants, but

richly wooded towards the summit. From this point there runs a large wide

valley, at the bottom of which lies the Botanic Garden, and still further

on, the lake. On the flat grounds by the shores of the lake are a number

of cottages, surrounded by cultivated fields. Immediately beyond these is

the sea-shore, with its broad belt of white sand on which a heavy surf

is always breaking. All beyond, with the exception of a small island or

two to the left is the great Southern Atlantic Ocean, bounded by the blue

sky. In the course of our walk we often sat down to rest ourselves, and

to enjoy, in the silence and repose which surrounded us, the romantic

prospects which were constantly presenting themselves.

The Corcovado mountain offers a rich field to the botanist. I frequently

visited the lower portions, but only once ascended to the summit.

The ascent is from the N.W. side, and although rather steep in some

places, may be ridden on horseback all the way up. Some of the trees

on the lower parts of it are very large. The thick underwood consists

of _Palms_, _Melastomaceæ_, _Myrtaceæ_, _Tree-ferns_, _Crotons_, &c.;

and beneath these are many delicate herbaceous ferns, _Dorstenias_,

_Heliconias_, and, in the more open places, a few large grasses. Towards

the summit the trees are of much smaller growth, and shrubs belonging

to the genus _Croton_ are abundant, as well as a small kind of bamboo.

The summit itself is a large mass of very coarse-grained granite. In

the clefts of the rocks grow a few small kinds of Orchideous plants,

and a beautiful tuberous-rooted scarlet-flowered _Gesneria_. From

this point a magnificent panoramic view of the bay, the city, and the

surrounding country is obtained. The temperature at this elevation is

so much reduced, that it is not difficult to fancy one’s self suddenly

transported to a higher latitude. A strong breeze was blowing, and just

before leaving, the top of the mountain became enveloped in one of those

dark clouds which so frequently hang over it towards the beginning of the

rainy season.

Another interesting journey made during my stay at Rio, was to the

Tijuca mountains, whither I was accompanied by a friend, and where we

remained ten days. Instead of the direct road from Rio, we preferred

the worst and more circuitous one which leads along the shore. Near the

sea, and about fifteen miles distant from the city, rises the Gavea, or

Topsail Mountain, so called from its square shape, and well known to

English sailors by the name, of Lord Hood’s Nose. It has a flat top, and

rises about two thousand feet above the level of the sea, to which it

presents a nearly perpendicular precipitous face. We remained a night

at the house of a Frenchman, who possessed a small coffee estate. The

coffee is planted on the rocky sloping ground which lies between the

base of the mountain and the sea. The situation is cool, and possesses

a moist climate. Among the loose rocks at the foot of the mountain we

made a fine collection of beautiful land-shells, and on the rocks by the

sea-shore, we found the beautiful _Gloxinia speciosa_, which is now so

common in the hot-houses of England, growing in the greatest profusion,

and covered with flowers. Along with it grows a kind of wild Parsley,

and twining among the bushes, a new kind of Indian cress (_Tropæolum

orthoceras_, Gardn.). On the face of the mountain, at an elevation of

several hundred feet, we observed some large patches of one of those

beautiful large-flowered Orchideous plants which are so common in Brazil.

Its large rose-coloured flowers were very conspicuous, but we could not

reach them. A few days afterwards we found it on a neighbouring mountain,

and ascertained it to be _Cattleya labiata_. Those on the Gavea will long

continue to vegetate, far from the reach of the greedy collector.

The road, after winding round the Gavea, terminates at a small salt water

lake, which passengers, who follow this route, are obliged to cross, or

rather to pass from one end to the other, in consequence of the flank

of a high hill which runs into it, and prevents a passage along its

margin. We passed the lake in a rotten leaky canoe, and saw on the face

of the steep rocks many curious plants which we could not reach. The

path which led to the house where we were to take up our quarters, lay

for about two miles through a flat meadow-land, partly in its original

state, and partly planted with Indian corn, Mandiocca, and Bananas. We

passed many small habitations belonging to poor people of colour, mostly

fishermen. Before reaching the foot of the mountain over which the road

leads to Tijuca, we passed a migrating body of small black ants. The

immense number of individuals comprising it may be imagined from the

fact, that the column was more than six feet broad, and extended in

length to upwards of thirty yards. The ground was completely covered

with the little creatures, so closely were they packed together. The

natural history of ants has as yet been but little studied, particularly

with regard to the enumeration of species. They are more numerous than

naturalists are aware of. In those parts within the tropics where

humidity prevails, they are neither so varied in species, nor so abundant

in individuals, as in drier districts. While residing at Pernambuco, I

remember taking notice of all the species I met with in the course of a

single day, and they amounted to about twenty-five.

Before ascending the hill we visited the falls of Tijuca, which are only

at a short distance from the road. The crystal water of a large rivulet

falls over two successive gently inclined masses of rock, upwards of one

hundred feet high. It rather glides in a broad broken sheet than falls,

and is received in a large pool below. This cascade reminded me of those

which are so often to be met with in the wooded glens of Scotland. By

dusk, after gradually ascending the mountains, we reached the house;

it is situated in an old coffee plantation, belonging to a Brazilian

nobleman, but it was then rented by a party of young English merchants

in Rio, who used it as a holiday resort, and, by the kindness of one of

them, we were allowed to remain at it for a few days.

Early on the following morning we made an excursion to a mountain called

the Pedra Bonita, immediately opposite the Gavea. In our way thither we

visited the coffee plantations of Mrs. Moke, and Mr. Lescene. They adjoin

each other, and were then considered the best managed near Rio. The great

coffee country is much farther inland, on the banks of the Rio Parahiba.

The trees are planted from six to eight feet apart. Those plants which

have been taken from the nursery with balls of mould round their root are

found to bear fruit in about two years, whereas those which have been

detached from the earth do not produce till the third year, and a greater

proportion of the plants die. They are planted when about a foot high,

on the slopes of the hills, in the alluvial soil from whence the virgin

forest has been cleared. They are only allowed to grow to the height of

from ten to twelve feet, so that the crop may lie within reach. Till the

trees are in full bearing, one negro can take charge of, and keep clean,

two thousand plants: but afterwards only half that number is allotted

him. Large healthy coffee trees have been found to produce as much as

from eight to twelve pounds of coffee; the average produce, however,

varies from a pound and a half to three pounds. When the berry is ripe,

it is about the size and colour of a cherry; and of these berries a

negro can collect about thirty-two pounds daily. In the course of the

year there are three gatherings, but the greater part of the crop ripens

during the dry season. The berries are spread out to dry in the sun,

on large slightly convex floors; the dry shell is afterwards removed,

either by mills, or by a series of large wooden mortars. It is only in

some few estates in Brazil that the pulper is seen, which is so commonly

used in the West Indies and Ceylon, for taking off the pulp from the

fresh berries. Nothing is more beautiful than a coffee plantation in full

bloom; the trees come into flower at the same time, but the blossoms do

not last more than twenty-four hours. Seen from a distance the plantation

seems covered with snow; and the flowers have a most delightful fragrance.

By the side of a stream which flows through the valley where these

plantations are, we noticed a nettle-like tree, with a stem eight inches

in diameter, and nearly twenty feet high, which proved to be a new

species of _Bæhmeria_ (_B. arborescens_, Gardn.). For a considerable

way our ascending path was bordered with bitter orange trees, the shade

afforded by which was no less acceptable than their fruit was grateful;

for the juice though a little bitter is not disagreeably so. Both here,

and in many other parts about Rio, this bitter kind of orange grows

apparently wild; it is called the wild orange by the Brazilians (_Laranja

da Terra_), but it is certainly not indigenous. Thence, we came to a

tract where the original forest having been felled, was replaced by a

thick wood of young trees, consisting chiefly of arborescent _Solanums_,

_Crotons_, _Vernonias_, &c., while great numbers of _Cecropia peltata_

and _palmata_ reared their heads above the rest, conspicuous at a great

distance from their white bark, their large lobed leaves, the snowy

under-surface of which, when agitated by the wind, gives the tree the

appearance of being covered with large white blossoms.

Near the summit of the Pedra Bonita, there is a small Fazenda, or farm,

the proprietor of which was then clearing away the forest which covers

it, converting the larger trees into charcoal. From the massive trunks

of some of them which had just been felled, we obtained some very pretty

Orchideous plants, and several of the larger denizens of the forest,

found to belong to the natural orders _Melastomaceæ_, _Myrtaceæ_,

_Compositæ_, and _Leguminosæ_. The ascent of the Pedra Bonita is made

from the north side. Immediately on emerging from the forest, and

attaining the summit, a most magnificent view of the surrounding country

presented itself. It was then nearly sunset, so we had but little time

for botanizing. We only saw enough to convince us that the vegetation

of the top of this mountain had a very different character from those

of any others we had visited near Rio: resembling more, as I have since

ascertained, that of the mountains of the interior. A few days afterwards

we made another journey to it, but on this occasion the whole mountain

was enveloped in clouds, the minute globules of which they were composed

being distinctly visible, as they swept past under the influence of a

strong breeze which was blowing from the north. A great part of the top

we found to be covered with the beautiful lily-like _Vellozia candida_,

on the branches of which grew a pretty _Epidendrum_, with rose-coloured

flowers. Along with the _Vellozia_ grew two beautiful subscandent

species of _Echites_,[2] one with large dark violet-coloured flowers,

the other with white ones of a similar size. They both exhale an odour

not unlike that of the common primrose, but more powerful. On the edge

of a precipice on the eastern side, we found, covered with its large

rose-coloured flowers, the splendid _Cattleya labiata_, which a few days

before we had seen on the Gavea.

The following year, on my return from the Organ Mountains, I again

visited this spot, and found that a great change had taken place. The

forest, which formerly covered a considerable portion of the summit,

was now cut down and converted into charcoal; and the small shrubs and

_Vellozias_ which grew in the exposed portion, had been destroyed by

fire. The progress of cultivation is proceeding so rapidly for twenty

miles around Rio, that many of the species which still exist, will in

the course of a few years, be completely annihilated, and the botanists

of future times who visit the country, will look in vain for the plants

collected by their predecessors.

Other excursions to the islands in the bay, and to Jurujuba, on the

opposite side of it, were also productive of many interesting species

of plants. It was at the latter place, on dry bushy hills, that I first

saw the really beautiful _Buginvillea spectabilis_ growing wild. It

climbs up into the tops of the bushes and trees near which it grows, and

the brilliant colour of the flowers, which it produces in the greatest

profusion, renders it conspicuous in the woods at a great distance. This,

as well as the equally beautiful _Bignonia venusta_, are much cultivated

as ornamental climbers in the suburbs.

Before leaving Rio, I visited the Botanic Garden, and the Museum of

Natural History. The former, as has already been observed, is situated at

the foot of a valley near the sea, about eight miles to the south-west of

the city. It is more a public promenade than a Botanic Garden, for, with

the exception of a few East Indian trees and shrubs, and a few herbaceous

European plants, there is but little to entitle it to that name. Of the

immense number of beautiful plants indigenous to the country, I saw but

few. The European botanist is, however, well recompensed for his visit,

by the sight of some large Bread-fruit trees and the Jack, with its

much smaller entire leaves, and monstrous fruit pendent from the stem

and large branches. There are also some fine Cinnamon and Clove trees.

Near the centre of the garden several clusters of Bamboos, with stems

upwards of fifty feet in height, give it a marked tropical character. The

avenue which leads up from the entrance, is planted on each side with

the pine-like _Casuarina_. It is on a piece of ground, about an acre in

extent, on the left hand side of this avenue, that the Tea plants grow

which were imported from China by the grandfather of the present Emperor.

It was thought that the climate and soil of Brazil would be suitable for

its cultivation, but the success of the experiment has not equalled the

expectations which were formed of it, notwithstanding that the growth of

the plants, and the preparation of the leaves, were managed by natives

of China accustomed to such occupations. In the province of San Paulo a

few large plantations of Tea have been established; that belonging to the

ex-regent Feijó, containing upwards of 20,000 trees. The produce is sold

in the shops at Rio, and in appearance is scarcely to be distinguished

from that of Chinese manufacture, but the flavour is inferior, having

more of an herby taste. It is sold at about the same price, but it is

now ascertained that it cannot be produced, so as to give a sufficient

recompense to the grower, the price of labour being greater in Brazil

than in China. To remunerate, it is said that Brazil Tea ought to bring

five shillings per pound.

The National Museum of Natural History was founded by Don John the Sixth.

It gives but a poor idea of the vast stores of animated nature which

exist in the country. Like many other Museums, more attention has been

given to the cases than to their contents. The collection is contained

in a building of moderate size, in the Campo de Santa Anna. There are

some eight apartments which visitors are allowed to enter: one of these

is devoted to the dresses, ornaments, arms, &c., of the aborigines of

Brazil; another contains a number of cases of stuffed birds, foreign as

well as indigenous, badly prepared, and but few of them named; another

has a few mummy cases ranged along one side of it, from one of which

the body has been taken and placed in a glass case; the bindings have

been unrolled from the head and feet, and both these parts are fully

exposed. There are also in this room a very limited collection of coins

and medals, and a few paintings, one of which is a full-length portrait

of the founder. Another apartment contains a few cases of quadrupeds,

chiefly monkeys. Two rooms are allotted to a collection of minerals,

which is the most extensive as well as the most interesting portion of

the contents of the institution; the specimens are mostly European. The

Museum is thrown open to the public every Thursday, from ten till four

o’clock, and appears to be well frequented.