SOFT SOLDERING WITH THE MOUTH BLOW PIPE.
The common blow pipe is a simple little tool that is used in connection
with an alcohol torch for soldering the finest and most delicate pieces
of jewelry, and constitutes the sole method of soldering used by
Britannia workers and jewelers, and the fact that such a varied
assortment of articles are soldered by the blow pipe process leads one
to surmise that it can be used to advantage on coarser work. Though it
is a familiar tool to gas fitters, plumbers as a rule are ignorant of
its use, and it is hard work to find one who ever saw a blow pipe used
on lead work. It is an easy matter to become proficient in its use, and
the trick of keeping up a steady blast, and breathing regularly at the
same time, is soon learned, and, when once acquired, stays with you
always. This trick consists of making a bellows of your cheeks and using
your tongue as a valve to close the entrance to the throat, leaving the
passage from the nostrils to the lungs clear for breathing purposes. The
only things necessary to purchase for practice are a common bent blow
pipe, which can be had for about 15 cents, and a common candle.
[Illustration:
_Fig. 47.—Position of Candle and Blow Pipe._
]
To operate: The candle should be lighted, and when it burns well and
freely the tip of the blow pipe should be brought close to the flame and
slightly above the wick, _a_, Fig. 45. Then blow lightly through the
blow pipe, and a pointed clear blue flame from 1 to 2 inches long, which
will burn paper or char wood at a distance of 6 or 8 inches from the
flame, will be the result. The flame is hottest and best when it shows a
perfect cone-shaped blaze, and is obtained by a very moderate blast. The
variation of the blaze can be noted by commencing to blow very lightly
and increasing the pressure gradually. The flame will then show all
stages from a smoky flame to a long blaze that cannot be concentrated on
any small surface. The little sharp tip is where the hydrogen burns, and
is the hottest part of the flame, being the part that is used for
soldering.
Now, having noted these peculiarities, and knowing the perfect flame by
sight, we will proceed to acquire the steady blast. The blow pipe should
be held between the lips, which will form a tight packing around it, and
must not come in contact with the teeth. The cheeks are then inflated,
which will have a tendency to throw the tongue back to the throat and
prevent the air in the mouth from blowing out through the nose. Now, by
contracting the cheeks, and throwing the tongue slowly forward, the air
will be forced through the blow pipe. This action is assisted when
exhaling air by the pressure of the lungs, but when inhaling air the
muscular contraction of the cheeks is depended upon entirely for the
blast.
The ability to keep up a steady blast is merely a trick, or knack, and
is learned with a few hours' practice; when learned, the length of time
that the blast can be kept up depends solely upon the strength of the
muscles of the cheeks of the operator. If these did not tire, the blast
could be kept up for an indefinite time. Having learned to keep up the
steady blast and get a perfect flame, the beginner will want to practice
soldering. The blow pipe method of soldering has for its range of work
everything that can be soldered, from Britannia metal to platinum, but
the only metals that are used by the plumbers are tin and lead and their
several compositions, so we will confine ourselves to the study of those
metals.
Kinds of Solder Used.
In soldering any metal the solder should be so proportioned that it will
melt many degrees lower in temperature than the metal to be soldered.
Otherwise it would be quite probable that holes would be burned in the
work before the solder would melt. There are exceptions to this rule,
however; for example, lead burning, where one piece of lead is fused to
another. As also with Britannia metal, it can be, and is, soldered with
its own material, but it would be likely to have holes burned in it
occasionally, and to avoid this a solder mixed for that purpose should
be prepared. Two receipts are given here for quick melting solders that
are suitable for this work. The first is preferred, but the second will
answer the purpose.
Solder No. 1: Procure 4 ounces of pure lead, 4 ounces of pure tin, and 2
ounces of bismuth. The lead should be melted first and thoroughly
stirred and cleaned. It should then be allowed to cool to the melting
temperature of the tin, which should then be added. Lastly add the
bismuth. The whole should then be stirred and poured into a suitable
mold into very thin strips, about the size of a No. 8 wire, making
strips of solder that can be rolled up and carried in the pocket.
Solder No. 2: This solder is composed of two parts of tin and one part
of lead. These should be mixed as described above. To have success in
making solders several points must be observed. The metal melting at the
highest temperature should be melted first, which must then be allowed
to drop to the melting temperature of the next metal to be added, and
when ready to pour into molds the mixture must be stirred, as the
specific gravity of the several metals differs considerably, and unless
constant stirring is resorted to the mixture will partially separate
upon cooling, and the result is an irregular solder that will not do the
work.
Practicing the Blowing.
Now, for practice, take two pieces of ¼-inch lead tubing and prepare
them as for a cup joint, by spreading one end with the bending iron and
rasping the other end to fit the cup, as shown in _a_, Fig. 33. Support
them as you best can in an upright position. Flux the joint with rosin.
Then take the solder in the left hand, set the lighted candle at the
right hight and distance from the joint, as shown at B, Fig. 47, which
leaves the right hand free to manage the blow pipe. Then heat the joint
with the flame, and, as it gets hot, touch the joint with the solder,
and when it reaches the melting temperature of the solder a drop of it
will detach itself and flow clear around the joint, making a smooth,
clean joint that is stronger than the pipe itself.
Joints made in this manner present a handsome and workmanlike appearance
to the mechanical eye. Practice diligently on the lead pipe until you
have become so proficient that you can flow the solder all through the
joint without withdrawing the flame. Then procure some ⅜-inch block tin
pipe, and, when that can be soldered perfectly, the beginner can
consider himself sufficiently proficient to practice on flat seams on
Britannia metal.
Soldering Britannia Metal.
For working Britannia metal the candle cannot be used, as the dripping
grease will cover the work and seriously interfere with the flowing
solder. The beginner must provide himself with an alcohol or kerosene
torch. A good form of torch, manufactured and sold for electricians'
use, is shown in Fig. 48. The alcohol gives a clean flame, but by
comparison is somewhat expensive. The kerosene gives a flame that can be
concentrated on a small surface with fully as much heat, and if care is
taken to allow only the blue flame to touch the work, it is fully as
clean and cheaper.
[Illustration:
_Fig. 48.—Alcohol or Kerosene Torch._
]
[Illustration:
_Fig. 49.—A Specially Constructed Torch._
]
The burning kerosene torch gives off a dirty smell and smoke, which
makes it disagreeable to handle, but this is a case of take your choice,
and it is left to the beginner to use either, as they will both do the
work satisfactorily. It is also necessary, in doing this work, to have
the blow pipe attached to the torch and connected to the mouth with a
piece of very small rubber tube. This will leave one hand free to apply
the flux and hold the solder. The flame can also be quickly placed in
any position or directed to any portion of the work without allowing the
work to cool. The alcohol torch for this work should be so constructed
that it can be held in a horizontal or inverted position without
spilling the contents of the torch.
The handiest, as also the cheapest, torch to make is the one shown in
Fig. 49. It consists of a can 3 inches high made in the shape of a
frustum of a scalene cone. The tube B should be ¼ inch in diameter, and
must run parallel with the flaring side and extend half way to the
bottom of the can, as _e_. Then, when the torch is tipped to solder
horizontal work, the alcohol will flow into the space _a_, leaving the
alcohol to supply the wick to be drawn up by capillary attraction. This
tube is made of ¼-inch brass tubing, bent to form an angle with the can,
as shown.
[Illustration:
_Fig. 50.—Using the Torch on a Flat Seam._
]
A screw and cap with a seat, such as is used on brass lamps, is
obtained, and a hole punched in the cap _c_ just large enough to receive
the tube B. The screw is soldered into the opening of the can at D. The
wick, which is formed of many strands of candle wicking rolled tightly
together, is pulled through the tube by means of a wire hook, and left
sufficiently long to lie in the space _a_, so that it will always lie in
the alcohol. This tube is placed through the hole at D, and allowed to
project about ¾ inch outside of the can. Wicking is then wound around
the tube and forced into the socket formed in the screw D. The cap is
then slipped over the tube at _c_, and screwed down tight on the
wicking, which will make a tight joint at D, and will hold the tube
firmly in place.
When necessary to fill the torch the tube can easily be removed and the
torch filled. A separate filling screw can be used if desired. Even with
this form of torch an excess of alcohol will occasionally get into the
wick when used in a horizontal position and increase the size of the
blaze. But when this happens the torch can be brought to an upright
position for a moment, which will drain the wick and bring the blaze to
its proper size.
The blow pipe for this torch is made from a piece of very small copper
or brass tubing. The end intended for the tip should be bent to the
angle required, as shown at _f_, Fig. 49. It should be fastened to the
torch by means of a clamp, _g_, soldered to the flaring side of the
torch. This clamp should be so arranged that the blow pipe can be
adjusted to the requirements of the blaze. This clamp consists of a
short piece of brass. A hole is drilled in one end to allow the blow
pipe to pass through, while the other end is filed to fit the bevel of
the can to which it is soldered. The blow pipe can be held in position
with a wedge, or a hole can be drilled and tapped and a small screw
inserted which will hold the blow pipe firmly in place. The tip of the
blow pipe should not be larger than 1-32 inch. The rubber tube can then
be attached to the projecting end of the blow pipe at _h_, which is then
ready for use.
[Illustration:
_Fig. 51.—Cutting Metal for a Butler's Pantry Sink._
]
Owing to the Britannia metal melting at such a low temperature, it would
be well for the beginner to practice on pieces of 2-pound sheet lead.
Seams on this class of work are made by butting the edges of the metal,
as these seams are not supposed to show. The seams are prepared by
truing the edges and then beveling the edges with the shave hook so that
when brought together a V-shaped groove is formed. This is then fluxed
with a small amount of powdered rosin. A drop of the quick melting
solder is then melted from the strip and allowed to drop on the seam.
The flame is then applied to the sheets, and as the solder flows the
flame must be kept slightly in advance of it, Fig. 50. Care must be
taken to heat the sheets only enough to cause the solder to flow.
Otherwise the seam will not appear full. The beginner should experience
no trouble in soldering these lead seams, and when perfect control of
the torch and flame is had, pieces of Britannia metal should be
substituted for the lead. These seams are prepared and fluxed just as
for lead.
Britannia metal is fast becoming the favorite lining for splash and drip
boards on butler's pantry sinks, as also for lining the work benches in
saloons. It is soft enough to allow the most delicate china to be laid
on it without danger of chipping, and is also very easy to keep clean.
It takes a high polish and always looks well. The method of cutting the
metal for a butler's pantry sink is shown in Fig. 51, the dotted lines
showing the actual dimensions of the article to be covered, while the
full lines show the laps required to cover the edges of the board. This
metal is harder than lead, and will not dress smooth with the dresser.
Any uneven spots must be pressed down with a hot flatiron. The method of
turning the edges is shown at _a_. The bending iron is heated and rubbed
over the edge, gradually turning the edges until they are at their
proper position. The iron must be constantly heated to insure the best
results, and if properly done no wrinkles will appear. A lined work
bench is also shown in Fig. 52, which shows the method of putting in the
bar washer. The sheet metal must be cut and fitted to its place and all
the seams possible should be soldered before placing the metal in
position. The edges should be tacked on the under side of the work, when
practicable, with copper tacks.
[Illustration:
_Fig. 52.—A Lined Work Bench, with Bar Washer._
]
Sooner or later the blow pipe solderer will be called upon to make
repairs on Britannia metal, and will be surprised to find that it will
be impossible to solder the metal, owing to the excess of moisture under
it. The best way to overcome this, which is practically the only trouble
that occurs, is to cut out a small square patch. The edge can be cleaned
and a patch of new metal carefully fitted into the hole. When ready to
begin soldering, a piece of blotting paper should be inserted between
the patch and board. This paper will absorb all the moisture and allow
the seam to be neatly soldered. The man who makes himself familiar with
the blow pipe and torch soon finds himself in a different class from the
ordinary everyday mechanic, and if mechanical ability be accompanied
with sobriety and stability, the possessor will always command a good
steady income.
THE END.
INDEX.
Acid Chamber, Framing, 109
Acid Chamber Work, 108
Acid, How Applied, 66
Acids, 20
Action of Generator, 66
Addition of Acid, 66
Air and Gas, Regulating Volume and Pressure, 74
Air Holder, 40
Air Pressure, 58
Alcohol Torch and Blow Pipe, 133
Apparatus for Lead Burning, 15
Arsenic, Poisonous Flame, 69
Arsenic Released from Acid on Zinc, 69
Bellows Air Holder, 49
Blow Pipe, 50, 62
Blow Pipe, Kirkwood, 122
Blow Pipe, Mouth, 127
Blow Pipe Practice with Candle, 128
Blow Pipe, Walmsley Compound, 50
Blue Vitriol or Copperas, 56
Bottom for Generator, 35
Britannia Metal for Repairing, 140
Britannia Metal Soft Soldering, 132
Britannia Metal Work, 14, 31, 32
Britannia Metal Work with Torch and Blow Pipe, 132
Burner, Kirkwood Lead, 119
Burner Tips, 62
Burns and Their Treatment, 17
Candle Blow Pipe Practice, 128
Care of Apparatus, 68
Cautions, 16
Charging and Cleaning Screws, 26
Charging Generator, 64
Chemical Tanks, How Lined, 105
Chipping Knife for Lead, 110
Cleaning Generator, 67
Colors of Flame, 76
Connecting Apparatus, 55
Cup, Scrubbing, 56, 68
Cup, Scrubbing, How Made, 70
Cutting Heavy Lead Straight, 110
Explosions, What to Do When They Occur, 17
Fire Trap, 56, 68
Flame Management, 73
Flame Under Different Pressures, 74
Flat Butt Seam, 83
Framing Acid Chamber, 109
Gas from Gasoline, How Generated, 39, 51
Gas Pressure, 58
Gasometer Air Holder, 46
Generator, Charging, 64
Generator, Cleaning, 67
Generator Construction, 26
Generator Frame, 30
Generator Materials, 30
Generator Pipe, How Fitted, 37
Generator Seams, How Burned, 36
Horizontal Butt Seam, 88
Horizontal Lap Seam, 93
Hydrogen and Air, Effect of Mixing, 24
Hydrogen Apparatus, Special, 119
Hydrogen from Water, How Made, 25
Hydrogen Gas and Its Properties, 18
Hydrogen Gas, How Made, 20
Hydrogen Proved Lighter Than Air, 23
Illuminating Gas Burning, 51
Inverted Butt Seam, 90
Inverted Corner Seam, 98
Inverted Lap Seam, 92
Joint for Through Burning, 102
Kirkwood Blow Pipe, 122
Kirkwood Lead Burner, 119
Knife for Cutting Lead, 110
Lap Seam, 82
Lead Burning Explained, 10
Lead Headed Nail, 117
Lead Sheets for Tank, 105
Lining Chemical Tanks, 105
Mixing Fork, 55, 57, 59
Mouth Blow Pipe, 127
Nail, Lead Headed, 117
Pipe Seams, 100
Pressure for Working Gas and Air, 58
Repairing with Britannia Metal, 140
Round Pipe Butt Seam, 100
Round Pipe Lap Seam, 103
Round Pipe, Tee Joint, 104
Scrubbing Cup, 56, 68
Scrubbing Cup, How Made, 70
Seam, Butt, on Round Pipe, 100
Seam, Flat Butt, 83
Seam, Horizontal Butt, 88
Seam, Horizontal Lap, 93
Seam, Inverted Butt, 90
Seam, Inverted Corner, 98
Seam, Inverted Lap, 92
Seam, Lap, 82
Seam, Lap, on Round Pipe, 103
Seam, Through, on Round Pipe, 101
Seam, Upright Lap, 95
Seam, Upright Butt, 86
Seams, Different Kinds of, 80
Seams, How Prepared, 80
Seams, Pipe, 100
Sink, Bar and Washer, 138
Sink, Butlers' Pantry, 137
Soft Solder, 13, 130
Soft Solder Formulæ, 131
Solder, Soft, 13, 130
Special Hydrogen Apparatus, 119
Staging for Acid Tank, 115
Straps for Tank Lining, 111
Tanks, How Made, 12
Tee Joint on Round Pipe, 104
Test for Hydrogen, 21
Testing Apparatus, 56
Through Burning, Joint, 102
Through Seam on Round Pipe, 101
Tips, Burner, 62
Tips, Sizes of, 78
Torch, Alcohol and Blow Pipe, 133
Trap, Fire, 56, 68
Upright Butt Seam, 86
Upright Lap Seam, 95
Vitriol, 56
Vitriol Action on Zinc, 69
Walmsley Compound Blow Pipe, 50
Water Pressure Air Holder, 42
TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES
1. Silently corrected typographical errors.
2. Retained anachronistic and non-standard spellings as printed.
3. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.