Maintaining Soil Humus

Organic matter benefits soil productivity not because it is present,

but because all forms of organic matter in the soil, including its

most stable form--humus--are disappearing. Mycorrhizal fungi and

beneficial bacterial colonies around plant roots can exist only by

consuming soil organic matter. The slimes and gums that cement soil

particles into relatively stable aggregates are formed by

microorganisms as they consume soil organic matter. Scats and casts

that _are_ soil crumbs form only because organic matter is being

consumed. If humus declines, the entire soil ecology runs down and

with it, soil tilth and the health and productivity of plants.

If you want to manage your garden soil wisely, keep foremost in mind

that the rate of humus loss is far more important than the amount of

humus present. However, natural processes remove humus without our

aid or attention while the gardener's task is to add organic matter.

So there is a very understandable tendency to focus on addition, not

subtraction. But, can we add too much? And if so, what happens when

we do?

How Much Humus is Soil Supposed to Have?

If you measured the organic matter contents of various soils around

the United States there would be wide differences. Some variations

on crop land are due to great losses that have been caused by

mismanagement. But even if you could measure virgin soils never used

by humans there still would be great differences. Hans Jenny, a soil

scientist at the University of Missouri during the 1940s, noticed

patterns in soil humus levels and explained how and why this occurs

in a wonderfully readable book, _Factors in Soil Formation._ These

days, academic agricultural scientists conceal the basic simplicity

of their knowledge by unnecessarily expressing their data with

exotic verbiage and higher mathematics. In Jenny's time it was not

considered demeaning if an intelligent layman could read and

understand the writings of a scientist or scholar. Any serious

gardener who wants to understand the wide differences in soil should

become familiar with _Factors in Soil Formation._ About organic

matter in virgin soils, Jenny said:

"Within regions of similar moisture conditions, the organic matter

content of soil . . . decreases from north to south. For each fall

of 10 degree C (18 degree F) in annual temperature the average

organic matter content of soil increases two or three times,

provided that [soil moisture] is kept constant."

Moist soil during the growing season encourages plant growth and

thus organic matter production. Where the soil becomes dry during

the growing season, plant growth slows or stops. So, all things

being equal, wet soils contain more organic matter than dry ones.

All organic matter eventually rots, even in soil too dry to grow

plants. The higher the soil temperature the faster the

decomposition. But chilly (not frozen) soils can still grow a lot of

biomass. So, all things being equal, hot soils have less humus in

them than cold ones. Cool, wet soils will have the highest levels;

hot, dry soils will be lowest in humus.

This model checks out in practice. If we were to measure organic

matter in soils along the Mississippi River where soil moisture

conditions remain pretty similar from south to north, we might find

2 percent in sultry Arkansas, 3 percent in Missouri and over 4

percent in Wisconsin, where soil temperatures are much lower. In

Arizona, unirrigated desert soils have virtually no organic matter.

In central and southern California where skimpy and undependable

winter rains peter out by March, it is hard to find an unirrigated

soil containing as much as 1 percent organic matter while in the

cool Maritime northwest, reliable winter rains keep the soil damp

into June and the more fertile farm pastures or natural prairies may

develop as much as 5 percent organic matter.

Other factors, like the basic mineral content of the soil or its

texture, also influence the amount of organic matter a spot will

create and will somewhat increase or decrease the humus content

compared to neighboring locations experiencing the same climate. But

the most powerfully controlling influences are moisture and

temperature.

On all virgin soils the organic matter content naturally sustains

itself at the highest possible level. And, average annual additions

exactly match the average annual amount of decomposition. Think

about that for a moment. Imagine that we start out with a plot of

finely-ground rock particles containing no life and no organic

matter. As the rock dust is colonized by life forms that gradually

build in numbers it becomes soil. The organic matter created there

increases nutrient availability and accelerates the breakdown of

rock particles, further increasing the creation of organic matter.

Soil humus steadily increases. Eventually a climax is sustained

where there is as much humus in the soil as there can be.

The peak plant and soil ecology that naturally lives on any site is

usually very healthy and is inevitably just as abundant as there is

moisture and soil minerals to support it. To me this suggests how

much organic matter it takes to grow a great vegetable garden. My

theory is that in terms of soil organic matter, vegetables grow

quite well at the humus level that would peak naturally on a virgin

site. In semi-arid areas I'd modify the theory to include an

increase as a result of necessary irrigation. Expressed as a rough

rule of thumb, a mere 2 percent organic matter in hot climates

increasing to 5 percent in cool ones will supply sufficient

biological soil activities to grow healthy vegetables if _the

mineral nutrient levels are high enough too._

Recall my assertion that what is most important about organic matter

is not how much is present, but how much is lost each year through

decomposition. For only by decomposing does organic matter release

the nutrients it contains so plants can uptake them; only by being

consumed does humus support the microecology that so markedly

contributes phytamins to plant nutrition, aggressively breaks down

rock particles and releases the plant nutrients they contain; only

by being eaten does soil organic matter support bacteria and

earthworms that improve productivity and create better tilth.

Here's something I find very interesting. Temperate climates having

seasons and winter, vary greatly in average temperature. Comparing

annual decomposition loss from a hot soil carrying 2 percent humus

with annual decomposition loss from a cooler soil carrying 5

percent, roughly the same amount of organic matter will decay out of

each soil during the growing season. _This means that in temperate

regions we have to replace about the same amount of organic matter

no matter what the location._

Like other substantial colleges of agriculture, the University of

Missouri ran some very valuable long-term studies in soil

management. In 1888, a never-farmed field of native prairie grasses

was converted into test plots. For fifty succeeding years each plot

was managed in a different but consistent manner. The series of

experiments that I find the most helpful recorded what happens to

soil organic matter as a consequence of farming practices. The

virgin prairie had sustained an organic matter content of about 3.5

percent. The lines on the graph show what happened to that organic

matter over time.

Timothy grass is probably a slightly more efficient converter of

solar energy into organic matter than was the original prairie.

After fifty years of feeding the hay cut from the field and

returning all of the livestock's manure, the organic matter in the

soil increased about 1/2 percent. Obviously, green manuring has very

limited ability to increase soil humus above climax levels. Growing

oats and returning enough manure to represent the straw and grain

fed to livestock, the field held its organic matter relatively

constant.

Growing small grain and removing everything but the stubble for

fifty years greatly reduced the organic matter. Keep in mind that

half the biomass production in a field happens below ground as

roots. And keep in mind that the charts don't reveal the sad

appearance the crops probably had once the organic matter declined

significantly. Nor do they show that the seed produced on those

degenerated fields probably would no longer sprout well enough to be

used as seedgrain, so new seed would have been imported into the

system each season, bringing with it new supplies of plant

nutrients. Without importing that bushel or so of wheat seed on each

acre each year, the curves would have been steeper and gone even

lower.

Corn is the hardest of the cereals on soil humus. The reason is,

wheat is closely broadcast in fall and makes a thick grassy

overwintering stand that forms biomass out of most of the solar

energy striking the field from spring until early summer when the

seed forms. Leafy oats create a little more biomass than wheat.

Corn, on the other hand, is frost tender and can't be planted early.

It is also not closely planted but is sown in widely-spaced rows.

Corn takes quite a while before it forms a leaf canopy that uses all

available solar energy. In farming lingo, corn is a "row crop."

Vegetables are also row crops. Many types don't form dense canopies

that soak up all solar energy for the entire growing season like a

virgin prairie. As with corn, the ground is tilled bare, so for much

of the best part of the growing season little or no organic matter

is produced. Of all the crops that a person can grow, vegetables are

the hardest on soil organic matter. There is no way that vegetables

can maintain soil humus, even if all their residues are religiously

composted and returned. Soil organic matter would decline markedly

even in an experiment in which we raised some small animals

exclusively on the vegetables and returned all of their manure and

urine too.

When growing vegetables we have to restore organic matter beyond the

amount the garden itself produces. The curves showing humus decline

at the University of Missouri give us a good hint as to how much

organic matter we are going to lose from vegetable gardening. Let's

make the most pessimistic possible estimate and suppose that

vegetable gardening is twice as hard on soil as was growing corn and

removing everything but the stubble and root systems.

With corn, about 40 percent of the entire organic matter reserve is

depleted in the first ten years. Let's suppose that vegetables might

remove almost _all_ soil humus in ten years, or 10 percent each year

for the first few years. This number is a crude. and for most places

in America, a wildly pessimistic guess.

However, 10 percent loss per year may understate losses in some

places. I have seen old row crop soils in California's central

valley that look like white-colored blowing dust. Nor does a 10

percent per year estimate quite allow for the surprising durability

I observe in the still black and rich-looking old vegetable seed

fields of western Washington State's Skaget Valley. These

cool-climate fields have suffered chemical farming for decades

without having been completely destroyed--yet.

How much loss is 10 percent per year? Let's take my own garden for

example. It started out as an old hay pasture that hadn't seen a

plow for twenty-five or more years and where, for the five years

I've owned the property, the annual grass production is not cut,

baled, and sold but is cut and allowed to lie in place. Each year's

accumulation of minerals and humus contributes to the better growth

of the next year's grass. Initially, my grass had grown a little

higher and a little thicker each year. But the steady increase in

biomass production seems to have tapered off in the last couple of

years. I suppose by now the soil's organic matter content probably

has been restored and is about 5 percent.

I allocate about one acre of that old pasture to garden land. In any

given year my shifting gardens occupy one-third of that acre. The

other two-thirds are being regenerated in healing grass. I measure

my garden in fractions of acres. Most city folks have little concept

of an acre; its about 40,000 square feet, or a plot 200' x 200'.

Give or take some, the plow pan of an acre weighs about two million

pounds. The plow pan is that seven inches of topsoil that is flipped

over by a moldboard plow, the seven inches where most biological

activity occurs, where virtually all of the soil's organic matter

resides. Two million pounds equals one thousand tons of topsoil in

the first seven inches of an acre. Five percent of that one thousand

tons can be organic matter, up to fifty priceless tons of life that

changes 950 tons of dead dust into a fertile, productive acre. If 10

percent of that fifty tons is lost as a consequence of one year's

vegetable gardening, that amounts to five tons per acre per year

lost or about 25 pounds lost per 100 square feet.

Patience, reader. There is a very blunt and soon to be a very

obvious point to all of this arithmetic. Visualize this! Lime is

spread at rates up to four tons per acre. Have you ever spread 1 T/A

or 50 pounds of lime over a garden 33 x 33 feet? Mighty hard to

accomplish! Even 200 pounds of lime would barely whiten the ground

of a 1,000 square-foot garden. It is even harder to spread a mere 5

tons of compost over an acre or only 25 pounds on a 100-square-foot

bed. It seems as though nothing has been accomplished, most of the

soil still shows, there is no _layer _of compost, only a thin

scattering.

But for the purpose of maintaining humus content of vegetable ground

at a healthy level, a thin scattering once a year is a gracious

plenty. Even if I were starting with a totally depleted, dusty,

absolutely humusless, ruined old farm field that had no organic

matter whatsoever and I wanted to convert it to a healthy vegetable

garden, I would only have to make a one-time amendment of 50 tons of

ripe compost per acre or 2,500 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Now

2,500 pounds of humus is a groaning, spring-sagging, long-bed pickup

load of compost heaped up above the cab and dripping off the sides.

Spread on a small garden, that's enough to feel a sense of

accomplishment about. Before I knew better I used to incorporate

that much composted horse manure once or twice a year and when I did

add a half-inch thick layer that's about what I was applying.

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