OBSERVATIONS ON KODIAK ISLAND
[Illustration: An Island near Valdez]
In the following spring, about the middle of May, we purchased an outfit
at Valdez for a trip westward along the Alaskan peninsula. After being
bottled up two days in the port of Valdez, we were anxious to get
started. The steamer approached the narrow entrance to the harbor, with
Fort Liscom, a Government post, on the left, and on the right glaciers
and wooded foothills. As we neared the neck it looked as though the
stopper was in the bottle and our exit barred by an island; but an
abrupt curve at the entrance took us into Prince William Sound, and in
due time along Knight's Island and Latouche Island, where copper is
found in paying quantities. And here is the most beautiful glacier of
Alaska, the Columbia, with its palisades at times advancing into the
forest and at times receding. A large flock of phalaropes (_Phalaropus
lobatus_) darting back and forth over the surface of the water, formed
geometric figures in the most graceful manner; occasionally the gray
back most conspicuous and then the silvery underside shining, each
little plume helping to make one perfect reflection in the water as they
move in regular form, without any disarranging of the original
positions, until they alight gracefully on the water. The greater
scaup-duck (_Aythya marila nearctica_), with its white spots so
noticeable as it takes its occasional upward flight from the water, is
always interesting. However, it prefers diving out of sight for a place
of safety as the steamer approaches, coming to the surface from time to
time until the boat is quite near, when, after a last long dive, it is
off on the wing as fast as possible out of harm's way.
In the distance to the westward as we entered Resurrection Bay, loomed
up the majestic Cathedral Rock, towering skyward a thousand feet, with
the Government survey cross on the top, and the roaring breakers washing
its foot, filling the coast line with make-believe soap-suds. Near the
water's edge the rocks were white with gulls mating for the nesting-time.
With the consent of the captain a shot was fired in that direction,
which struck the water some distance from the rock, and myriads of gulls
took to wing with their wild cry of alarm. Some person shouted, "There's
a whale!" and all were anxiously waiting for his reappearance, but his
huge tail had disappeared to us for the last time. About this time a
gull soared gracefully over the steamer and a fellow-passenger, rifle in
hand, pointed the muzzle at the bird, and pulled the trigger, bringing
down a feather from its wing. At the same time the first officer
shouted, "Here, here! Don't shoot that gull! You'll bring us bad luck."
There is a well founded superstition among the "old sea-dogs" that to
kill a gull will bring bad luck.
[Illustration: Sea Lion Rocks]
About dusk, as we steamed westward, our attention was called to Sea Lion
Rocks, and the genial Captain Jansen steered the ship within five
hundred yards of the island in order that we might see the lions. The
rocks were covered with the large animals, and they made such an uproar
as we passed that they could be heard a long distance off above the
noise of the breakers.
Along the coast of Kenai Peninsula the mountains are covered with
spruce, hemlock, and birch, until we enter Resurrection Bay, at the
head of which Seward is built. The first time I visited Seward it was
practically abandoned. It was the terminus of a new railroad in process
of construction across the peninsula, having as its objective point the
placer mines of the Susitna Valley. Like a great many other projects of
this kind, there was not sufficient money subscribed to finish the
undertaking, and the company was forced into the hands of a receiver.
[Illustration: Seward]
[Illustration: Seldovia]
The next stop on our way west was Seldovia. The old Russian church where
we attended services was built on a little knoll that overlooked the
harbor, and from it we could see the native burial ground with its
dilapidated grave marks. When we entered the church the natives did not
seem to be much interested in us. While the sermon is being delivered
the women occupy one side of the house and the men the other. During the
services they paid close attention to what was going on. There were no
seats in the church and all the parties stood during the entire time of
worship. When the incense was being burned, filling the room with sweet
fragrance, the expression on the features of the worshipers manifested a
devout frame of mind and spirit not often in evidence.
In the harbor were hundreds of gulls, floating leisurely on the surface
of the water or standing on the logs that drifted with the tide.
Among the passengers on the steamer was a delicate little lady with her
three-year-old child, who was on the way to meet her husband at
Iliamnia, some sixty miles across the bay. I remember how indignant the
passengers were when they learned there was no person present to meet
her when she arrived, and no prospect of her getting across Cook's Inlet
for more than a week. A purse was raised among the passengers, all
contributing, and with the aid of the captain of the revenue cutter,
who in ordinary cases would take no passengers, the little lady was
started on her trip across the Inlet the following morning, happy in the
expectation of meeting her husband.
[Illustration: Turbulent Shellicoff]
[Illustration: The Ravens]
While crossing the entrance to Shellicoff Straits we encountered a very
rough sea and the steamer tossed and pitched among the billows. That
evening, as we steamed towards Kodiak Island, the clouds were fringed
with pink and purple and through a rift the sun illuminated sky and
water with all the splendor and brilliance of those northwestern
sunsets. Passing to the left of Afognak Island, we entered the harbor at
Kodiak. The village, with its Greek church similar in structure to the
old chapel at Sitka, is built on a plateau and surrounded with sloping,
verdure-clad hills. The population consists of about four hundred, a few
of them whites, the rest Aliutes and Creoles. The ravens (_Corvus corax
principalis_) were very plentiful, and their croaking could be heard in
all directions. One old fellow continually perched on the top of a
shanty used as the district jail. Two of the prisoners were permitted to
wander around, cut firewood for the warden, plant seed and the like.
Once when the planter was putting in seed at one end of the row and the
raven picking it out at the other, we heard the former call out, "Shoo,
shoo, _you'll_ be put in jail for stealing next."
We arrived in Kodiak on the morning of May 26th, and immediately began
our preparations for the hunt. On our way up we became acquainted with
the United States Marshal, who kindly invited us to stop at his home
until we could arrange matters to go farther westward on the island,
where we expected to hunt.
My guide was a man who had spent his early life on the plains as a
cow-puncher and trapper. One day he told me that he and a friend left
their mountain camp to sell their winter's catch. It was getting less
and less each year because of the slow but sure disappearance of wild
life, as the white hunters and trappers increased and the demand for
furs grew. He was in love with a daughter of the plains and had returned
in the spring with the results of his winter's work, intending to lay
his all at the feet of his lady love. The season had been against him in
his search for furs. The heavy snows had kept the fox and lynx from
making extensive forages from their dens, and the low temperature
before the snow came froze the creeks so solid that the mink, otter, and
beaver were forced to remain indoors the greater part of the time. The
winter had been long and severe, the catch was poor, and he left his
traps late in the spring when the pelts were beginning to look hairless.
Thus he left his occupation in the solitude of the wilds with a heavy
heart, for the previous fall when he bade adieu to his fair fiancée,
full of hope and expectation, with the promise of a large yield, he was
sure of sufficient funds to purchase a meager home. When he reached the
frontier town he could not muster up courage enough to see her, but
disposed of his stock, sold his outfit and all his belongings, and made
a bee-line for California; thence he took the first steamer for the
Yukon. About this time a strike was made at Nome and hundreds of gold
seekers had gathered. There was a great demand for fresh meat, so he
conceived the idea of constructing a raft in the upper waters, loading
it with moose meat, and then floating the flat to Nome and getting rich
quick. About the time he was ready to start with a full load, Congress
passed an act making it unlawful to sell or have in possession any wild
game. On his way down he was stopped at the Government fort, put under
arrest, and his load confiscated. He argued his own case well, for he
got off without imprisonment. After spending several years there he
returned to Seattle, and sent for his little girl from Montana; they
were united for better or worse, and together they left Seattle and
landed on the Alaskan Peninsula, where they spent three years hunting
and trapping.
I visited their clean, tidy home in Seattle, was very much delighted,
and spent many pleasant hours listening to the wife's stories of her
experiences. Among other things she said: "My husband shot during the
three years over one hundred of the big brown bear for the hides. My
part was to assist him with the skinning and do the general housework.
On one occasion he had shot a big bear and had placed his gun a short
distance away while he proceeded to skin the animal. About the time the
steel entered the skin the bear jumped up, uttered a hair-raising growl,
and as I ran away, Grant grabbed his gun and finished the bear. I tell
you that was exciting. For a whole year we did not see a soul at camp,
and when we wanted provisions, Grant would make a trip across Akuton
Pass to Unalaska to do the buying. One day he left me in the morning
with a large Malamuth dog for my sole companion, saying he would return
on the morrow. When the morrow dawned it brought with it one of the
worst storms that had swept the coast for years, so bad that even one of
the large steamers could not live it out, and was destroyed on the rocks
nearby. The storm kept up for four days, and just imagine me alone
during those four long, weary days, wondering if Grant had been lost,
and what I would do if such were the case.
"The dawning of the fifth day found me looking in the direction of
Unalaska, hoping and praying that he might return safely. A little black
speck in the blue distance caught my eye. At first I thought it was a
bird skimming over the water, but as I looked again and again it seemed
to float on the surface. My spirits rose, and the longer I looked the
more certain I was that it was the little boat. Oh! what was my joy as
the tiny object increased in size as it advanced nearer and nearer until
I recognized the little dory and the frantic waving of hat and hands of
Grant as he approached closer and closer! The climax came when I
recognized his whoop, as he saw me standing on the beach with arms open
to receive him, and woman-like, I proceeded to swoon away.
"The very next trip I determined to go with him. We set sail in our
little schooner with a strong fair wind, but before long a fierce gale
struck us and was carrying us toward sure destruction on the reef, where
the angry sea would have made kindling wood of our frail craft. We cast
the anchor, but it dragged, dragged, and would not take hold, and all
the while we were drifting nearer and nearer the reef. Grant had given
up all hope, and said: 'Mollie, dear, it's all up! We're lost!' I
encouraged him, saying that there was still hope, when, much to our
relief, the anchor took hold and the bow turned to windward on the very
verge of destruction. It held fast all night. As the dawn began to
appear the wind shifted, and hoisting our little sail we tacked back and
forth to Unalaska. We started on our return trip, but luck was against
us; we were blown far out to sea, and for four long days and nights we
drifted, we knew not where. Almost the entire time Grant had his head up
through the hatchway, around his neck a canvas spread over the hatchway,
to keep the breakers from filling the boat, and many, many times I
cheered him with a cup of strong tea. Grant had given up all hope of
reaching land, when gradually the wind shifted, blew from the opposite
direction, and took us straight to shore."
On one of their hunting trips to Knight's Island, Grant prospected a
little on the side and staked a copper claim which "panned out" very
well, but which eventually cost the life of a partner, who was caught in
a snow slide the following spring.
I bade her good-bye as we left Seattle, when she said: "Oh! how I long
to return to Alaska! Before I went there I was a very delicate girl and
had very poor health; in fact, the opinion of the family physician was
that I did not have long to live; but roughing it in the open air seemed
to be a tonic and built me right up. Is it any wonder I love Alaska and
long for its wild free life?"
* * * * *
[Illustration: Kodiak]
Kodiak is a charming little village. The natives are lazy and spend most
of their time in fishing and hunting. We hired a couple of Aliutes, who
owned a schooner, to take our equipment to the camping ground. Our
course lay around the northeastern end of Kodiak Island, thence
westward. After starting, we were becalmed for some time to leeward of
the rocky coast. Along came a couple of natives, who towed us out a few
hundred feet from behind the island, and presently the sails began to
fill. As though it were human, the schooner responded to the gentle
breezes and away we went toward the open seas. We had to round a distant
point in order to get into another bay. With a fair southeast wind we
dropped anchor at six o'clock some thirty miles west of Kodiak. We
followed the shore line with its picturesque scenery of snow-clad hills
covered with scrubby trees, mostly cottonwood and spruce. Here and there
the tundra, like a great meadow fringed with alder, added charm and
interest to the surroundings. The waters of Shellicoff Straits threw
their breakers far up on the beach, and an occasional whale would spout
in the distance. We passed an island covered with different species of
gulls nesting on the rocks; it was just the beginning of the nesting
season for aquatic birds.
[Illustration: Gull Island]
[Illustration: Forget-me-nots]
After several days of these interesting sights, the sailboat entered a
beautiful little fiord, where we cast anchor for the night. On the
following day we landed our equipment, dismissed the Indians with their
boat, and pitched our tent in a little sheltered nook among the
cottonwoods, where we expected to spend several weeks in hunting and
photographing the great Kadiak bear (_Ursus middendorff_). The snow had
disappeared for about a third of the way up the mountain, visible beyond
foothills densely overgrown with alder, elder, and other bushes. The
rocky shore, treeless, save for a stunted cottonwood here and there, was
covered with many varieties of beautiful spring flowers. A cluster of
fragrant forget-me-nots among the mosses, another of crowfoot, with the
long dry grass of the previous year for a background, and a bunch of
pinks with a similar setting added life and color to the rugged
surroundings.
* * * * *
[Illustration: Crow's Nest and Young]
[Illustration: Nests of Eagle and Magpie]
While climbing for a specially beautiful bunch of forget-me-nots I came
across a crow's nest (_Corvus americanus_) under a ledge of rocks. In
the nest were several young crows waiting for the mother bird to return
to appease their hunger. The bald eagles (_Haliætus leucocephalus_) were
very plentiful and there were several nests built in the vicinity. Never
having had any experience with eagles rearing their young, I suggested
to my guide that I would climb one of the trees to the nest and see
what effect it would have upon the birds. He insisted that it was
dangerous to climb the tree, but could not persuade me to forego the
experience. At my request he stood guard near the foot of the
cottonwood, with instructions to shoot the birds if they came too close.
Taking off my shoes, coat, and hat, I started to climb the tree as the
old birds were soaring quite a distance above. As I climbed higher and
higher the birds came nearer and nearer, and when I was about half way
up the guide tried to persuade me to come down, for the birds were
getting dangerously close. When I had covered about two-thirds of the
climb, one of the birds came so near that I could feel the wind from his
wing, when "crack" went the gun and down went the bird. I remonstrated
with him for shooting the bird, for it was not close enough to do any
harm. He again insisted that I come down, saying that the other bird
would strike me and knock me off the tree, but I still persisted in
going higher, with the male coming nearer and nearer. On one of its
circlings it struck me lightly on the head with the tip of its wing. The
guide said, "Is that close enough?" and threw his gun up as though to
shoot the bird, but I insisted that he should wait a little. All the
time my eyes were fixed on the eagle. As he made the next swoop, if I
had not dodged behind a limb he would surely have knocked me off with
his wing. Again the gun cracked, the bird pitched head-on and,
meteor-like, dropped to the ground with a thud.
[Illustration: Eagle Watching for Prey]
Climbing up to the nest, I found it was built of sticks. Some on the
margin of the nest were as large as one's wrist, those nearer the center
were smaller, while the nest proper was lined with grass. The nest over
all had a diameter of about six feet. In it were three little eaglets,
possibly two days old, and around the nest were the remains of several
species of birds, such as ducks, ptarmigan, and kingfishers, also pieces
of fish, to feed the young. When I saw the destruction of life I felt,
in common with the guide, that eagles should not receive too much
consideration at the hands of the Nimrod. He was anxious to shoot every
eagle in sight, as he said many a nice piece of fur caught in his traps
had been destroyed by them. Knowing that both the parent birds were
dead, I thought it a pity to leave the young to die of starvation.
Pulling my bandanna handkerchief out of my pocket, I carefully stowed
away the little birds in the pack, swung it over my arm, and slid down
to the ground.
[Illustration: Eagle's Nest and Young]
On the lower branches of the same tree a pair of magpies (_Pica pica
hudsonica_) had built their nest in the usual way, covered over to the
depth of at least a foot with limbs and sticks, its small entrance at
the side, evidently in pursuance of the natural instinct of the birds
for the protection of their nest and young. It occurred to me as strange
that both of these birds, carnivorous and well known as destroyers of
eggs and nests, seemed to live happily together, though the eagle, if it
so desired, could have destroyed the nest of the magpie with one grip of
its powerful talons.
We took the young eagles to camp, fed them for several days, and the
amount they could devour of fresh codfish, cut up in large chunks, was
surprising. They would fill their craws so full that they looked like
pouter pigeons.
[Illustration: First Sight of Day]
For several days we observed with the field-glass that a bald eagle had
built its nest away up among the crags at the end of a projection on one
of the peaks. We noticed that the old bird spent a great deal of time on
the nest, and we knew she was hatching. After discussing the matter, we
decided to take the young eagles and put them in the nest to be reared
by the foster-mother. About dawn we started for the eyrie on the cliffs,
with our kodak, gun, and the young eaglets. After climbing three or four
hours we reached a point above the rocks, and then by advancing
cautiously, sliding and crawling, we safely reached the nest. I had
given the guide positive instructions that he was under no circumstances
to kill the old birds, but scare them away by shooting into the air
occasionally. He took a position a little above where he could command a
good view of the birds and keep guard over me while I was photographing
the nest. There were two pale buff eggs (size 2.75 × 2.10) in the nest,
and while I was arranging my camera an occasional report from the gun in
the hands of the guide kept the eagles at a respectful distance. While
setting up the kodak I heard the "peep, peep" of the little eaglets in
the eggs trying to get the first sight of day, and about the time
everything was ready to take the picture the egg cracked, with the
result that I obtained a picture of the little bird just coming out. We
left our two little eagles with the others, worked our way down the
mountain-side, and since then I have often wondered if the foster-mother
reared the young.
[Illustration: Sea Parrot Incubating]
We decided to change our camping-ground into the adjoining fiord. Taking
the twenty-foot tide at flood, as we thought, we were a little slow in
starting, had some difficulty getting out, and before we reached deep
water were caught and left high and dry on a shoal, where we were
obliged to remain for several hours, waiting for the return of the tide.
During the interim we waded to shore and scoured the neighboring hills
in search of some evidence of Bruin. We found none, and by the time we
came back to the water's edge, the tide had set in so far that we were
forced to wade for a quarter of a mile to our boat. The latter was
heavily loaded, but as the current caught it, it moved gently at first,
then at last cleared the sandbar. With a strong wind blowing, we were
carried out to the promontory just about the time the tide was turning
and the flood tide carried us up to the head of the adjoining bay. The
breakers were running high on the point and it was with the greatest
difficulty that we were able to get around with our dory. Frequently
the wind blew the spray all over us, and by the time we reached the
return tide on the other side I was greatly exhausted and gave a sigh of
relief, for conditions were such that we were afraid our little dory
could not stand much more of the kind of sea that was running. Once
around on the other side the wind changed, and with the inflow of the
tide and our little leg-of-mutton sail, we were carried with race-horse
speed to the head of the bay. We steered for a small island, and as we
approached, many gulls, sea-parrots, and ducks were flying around the
bay. We landed the dory on the beach, and climbed the rocks while the
birds hovered about us by the thousands, uttering their shrill cries of
alarm as we gathered a few fresh eggs for breakfast on the morrow.
Sea-parrots (_Fratercula arctica_) were quite numerous, and many left
their holes in the rocks, startled no doubt by the warning given by the
gulls. Peeping down into one of the crevices I discovered a sea-parrot's
nest with the female sitting on it. In order to get in to the nest it
was necessary to pass horizontally between the rocks and drop vertically
about five feet into a small, cavern-like space. Being anxious to
photograph the nest, I discarded a part of my clothing, entered the hole
feet first, with the guide holding on to me until my feet reached solid
ground. Having a pair of buckskin gloves on my hands I caught the
parrot, and at the same time the parrot caught me with its powerful
beak, and if it had not been for the gloves I would have received an
ugly bite. I handed the bird and her one dull-white-and-lilac-marked egg
to the guide, who placed the bird in my kodak box until he helped me
out. I had considerable difficulty in getting out at the hole by which I
had entered, for to do so it was necessary for my body as it emerged to
be at right angles with the wall rock. When I did succeed in getting
out, with the aid of my guide pulling and tugging, I was minus
considerable clothing.
[Illustration: Sea Parrot's Nest and Egg]
* * * * *
A little farther down the rocks we came to a white tern's nest (_Gygis
alba kittlitzi_), viz, an egg laid upon the bare rock without a vestige
of any structure. In color it was bluish white, with large liver-colored
spots. It is said of these birds that are very reckless in laying their
eggs, at times selecting a bare limb, and how they succeed in incubating
under certain conditions is remarkable.
[Illustration: Characteristic Nest of _Gygis_]
[Illustration: Nest and Eggs of Herring Gull]
We passed about two weeks in this location in the most ideal weather,
without pitching tent, sleeping on the ground rolled in our blankets,
our canopy the heavens glittering with myriads of stars overhead. The
days were long and we spent most of our time from two o'clock in the
morning until eleven at night where the bear love to roam. They were
just coming out of hibernation and had not yet started to feed. During
my brief experience I observed from the tracks in the snow that the bear
do not eat anything for the first two or three days, then gradually
descend toward the snow-line and begin to nip the new grass. While the
salmon run their principal diet is fish. With the glasses we could see
several trails of Old Ephraim where he came over the very highest peaks
of the snow-capped range, quartering down and again returning to the
higher altitudes, where he evidently spent his time at this season of
the year. On one occasion we pitched camp about dusk, ten o'clock, and
having gathered a good supply of last year's ferns for bedding, rolled
ourselves up in our blankets and forgot we were tired until five o'clock
the next morning.
A good hot breakfast limbered up our stiff joints considerably, and in
about an hour we were starting for the trails in the snow of the summit.
Up we went, steadily and slowly, at an angle of forty-five degrees until
we reached the snow-line, when we struck the bear trail where he first
had descended the mountain. A part of the time he had come down on his
tail, judging from the slides we found occasionally. He had circled
around quite a distance and ascended again without even nipping a blade
of grass, although in the snow-slides the grass was beginning to grow.
Taking the trail we started after him up the mountain, but a more
difficult task one could not well imagine. Part of the time the wet snow
was up to our waists and all the time over boot-tops. Up and up we went
on the trail until we reached the drift snow of the side summit, where
we were obliged to crawl on hands and knees in order to get over. Then
our task was easy for some time and we found many old trails on the
top. We were satisfied that the bears were not yet feeding.
* * * * *
Returning along the mountains we saw quite a few small snow-slides. On
one occasion while crossing between two ridges my companion startled me
by shouting, "Run, for Heaven's sake!" At the same time he made a dash
towards the ridge. My first thought was, "A bear!" But almost instantly
I realized our danger, as a snow-slide that had started above from some
unknown cause, came thundering down, almost upon us. (It is said that
under certain conditions the report of a gun may start a slide.) As it
descended, gathering speed and bulk and as the loose snow slid over the
hard crust, it sounded like a strong wind roaring through the trees. In
speaking about his long experience in Alaska, my guide informed me that
he was more afraid of a snow-slide than of all the grizzlies in the
country. He said that in the spring of '98, in what was known as the
Sheep Creek slide on the Chillcoot Pass, he helped to dig out of the
snow fifty-two dead bodies of gold-seekers who were caught on the trail
in a big snow-slide, among them being one woman.
[Illustration: Our Camp among the Cottonwoods]
The next morning, just as soon as the regular routine of getting
breakfast was over, we again started up the mountains in search of the
quarry. The hunting was the hardest I have ever experienced, the
mountains being a series of peaks and hollows, at the base covered with
a dense growth of alder and underbrush, the rocks and crevices hidden
beneath moss, dry ferns, and leaves. As we ascended we found less moss
and alder and more long grass. The snow had packed the latter flat on
the earth and it was as slippery as ice. At each step we were sure to
slide if the greatest effort and care were not taken. When we reached
the snowy top, as far as the eye could see, peak after peak pushed its
head above the clouds, looking like huge sentries, standing guard over
an untrodden domain. We scrutinized every suspicious-looking object with
the field-glasses in the hope of descrying a bear. Working our way down
over the snow, occasionally sliding "hunker" fashion or dropping into a
hole between the rocks, greeting with a quiet "damn" an alder switch in
the eye or a devil's club jagger in the hand, we finally reached the
valley.
Along the shore of the stream I observed the beaten paths that the bear
had worn to a depth of twenty inches at places, evidently where they had
been travelling up and down the stream fishing for many years. Each
morning as soon as we opened our eyes we reached for the field-glasses
and carefully scanned the mountain-sides for fresh signs. One morning
the guide, after looking long and carefully, called my attention to
three bears circling up the mountain. We watched them climb higher and
higher until they finally disappeared over the backbone of the ridge
just about the time we were ready to follow. The foothills were covered
at least a third of the way with dense alder and other tangled
underbrush that made it very difficult to get through. By the time we
reached the snow-line we were tired out and stopped a short time for a
rest. Occasionally a ptarmigan would start up, uttering its plaintive,
croaking notes as it took to wing. Some were all white in their winter
coats, others were partly in their brown summer plumage. Again we plowed
our way up through the soft snow, sinking deeper and deeper as we
ascended the mountain, a hot sun adding to our discomfort. The guide was
in advance and I followed, stepping in his tracks. Even with our snow
glasses it was almost impossible to see. The glitter of the snow
affected the eyes, though the eyelids, heavy and red, were almost closed
and the tears trickled down our cheeks. Half the time I could not see
at all. Sometimes the guide would go into the snow up to his knees and
again to his waist into a crevice, which could then be avoided by his
follower. Plodding along we reached almost the top of the snowy peak,
now enveloped in a canopy of fog, and there we were in the midst of a
snowstorm that was so dense we could scarcely see, and all that I could
distinguish was a black object about three feet in advance. Finally the
guide called out that it was foolishness for us to track the bear under
present conditions, and suggested that we circle around the peak and
catch their trail on the other side. In a short time we were out of the
snowstorm and, tramping around the cone of the mountain, struck the
trail, which went straight down the other side toward the valley.
Occasionally one of the bear would take a notion to sit down and slide
many yards. This habit rubs the hair off rapidly, and if they are not
killed shortly after they leave winter quarters the hide is practically
ruined. When we got down below the snow-line the bear took to the alder,
where we found it was much more difficult to follow the trail. About
noon we took off our shoes, wrung out our socks, now soaking wet with
snow water, and hung them up to dry while we slept for about three
hours on the bare ground. Then we took the trail again across the
opposite mountain, but finally had to give up, for we were unable to
overtake the game.
[Illustration: An Extinct Crater where the Bear Hibernate]
Two days afterwards we started up the valley, when the guide happened to
look back and pointed out a large bear ascending the mountain about half
a mile behind us. Through the field-glasses we watched him climbing;
frequently he would look back,--evidently he had gotten a whiff of us as
we passed him in the valley below. Occasionally he would disappear
behind a little knoll and again appear, at the same time gradually
ascending the mountain. Finally he went out of sight behind a knoll and
we waited for about twenty minutes to see if he would show himself again
before we started after him. We concluded that he had lain down on the
knoll, and after fixing the location as best we could, we started to
climb the mountain, first through the thick alder until we reached the
snow-line, then plowing our way through the snow, using the guns for
alpenstocks, as the climbing was very difficult. When we reached the
knoll where the bear was concealed we advanced cautiously, puffing like
"wind-jammers"--full of excitement at the thought of the quarry being so
near.
[Illustration: Where He Fell]
The guide was just pointing out to me the back track in the snow beyond,
when old Bruin raised up on his hind quarters, opened his mouth, and let
out two of the most awful growls one could imagine. At the same time the
guide exclaimed, "Get to him, there he is!"--only his language was a
little more forcible. With that the bear dropped on all fours, head
advanced as though he was going to charge. Before I had time to take a
shot he wheeled, disappeared for a second in a little depression beyond,
reappeared on the other side at a distance of about forty yards, going
down the mountain at a rapid gait. I fired my first shot from a "405,"
but there was no indication that I had touched the mark. I pumped in
another shell and fired again, with no better results; again I threw the
gun to my shoulder, pulled the trigger, but there was no explosion. I
must have been a little excited, for I did not push the lever far
enough, consequently it did not throw the shell into the chamber. My
guide by this time was very much excited and insisted upon taking a
shot, while I demanded one more chance. All this time the bear was
going down the mountain-side at a rapid pace. By the time he was a
hundred yards away I fired the last shot and he made one headlong plunge
into the snow.
Much to my surprise, although I had frequently heard of the remarkable
vitality of the grizzly, we found upon examination that the first shot
had passed through the heart and through the entire body, as indicated
by the hole on the other side. The second time I fired I overshot and
the last charge quartered through the lungs and came out at the left
shoulder. Thus he had run at least fifty yards after receiving his death
wound, and I have no doubt would have run a long way if it had not been
for the last shot that brought him down. We left the bear where he fell
in order to get a photograph, and it was necessary to make a special
trip back with the kodak, which we did the following day.
[Illustration: Stretched Bear Skins]
Working our way down the mountain trail to the valley we ate our lunch,
and took a nap. On awakening we advanced toward the head of a beautiful
little lake artistically located in a basin of half snow-clad hills. The
silence, save for the crackling cry of the ptarmigan (_Lagopus lagopus_)
as they left their snowy bed in great alarm, was awe-inspiring. A
little beyond the head of the lake we were confronted with a mountain
stream which to me looked impassable owing to the swiftness of the
current. In a few seconds the guide stepped into the ice-cold water, at
the same time commanding me to get on his back, and in this way he
ferried me across with the water almost carrying him off his feet. Later
in the afternoon our progress was again checked by a torrent, the sight
of which caused me to say, "It's impossible for us to cross this
stream, we'll have to go back the way we came." My companion followed
the stream up and down a short way until finally he came to a cottonwood
tree about two feet in diameter. Taking his coat off and reaching for
the small axe in his belt, in a short time he felled the tree right
across the creek, and by this footbridge we passed over without any
difficulty. About ten o'clock in the evening, as we worked our way down
the precipitous chasm, we came upon an obstacle that we could not
overcome. The gorge was perhaps ten feet wide and we were working our
way along on the left of the stream. As we rounded a curve we found that
just ahead the course of the torrent was deflected by a boulder on the
right, so that it rushed to the left and point blank against a
projecting rock directly in our path, effectually cutting off our
progress. It was quite an undertaking to get out of the pocket we were
in, and it required the alternate assistance of each to accomplish the
undertaking. With occasionally a boost and then a pull, and so on, we
finally climbed pretty well up to the top, where we could start anew
down to the shore a little beyond the canyon. By this time the shadows
cast by the midnight sun were lengthening fast. We began to realize our
position, tired and hungry, without food, waiting around the camp fire
for six hours for the ebb tide that we might get over to our boat. The
guide could not content himself very long and started to work his way
around a rock projection. In the undertaking he fell into the water, and
instead of trying to get out, made a bold dash across the stream and
pulled himself up on the rocks on the opposite side like a half-drowned
rat. In a short time he returned with the boat and ferried your humble
servant across. By this time it was getting quite cold and he was
threatened with chills, so to keep up the circulation he applied the
oars furiously to reach our tent, which fortunately was not far away.
Hurriedly changing his clothing and wrapping himself up in blankets, he
brought on the reaction about the time I had a pot of strong hot tea
ready to administer.
On our wanderings around the island we frequently came upon an abandoned
winter home of the natives. They fish and trap principally, for a
livelihood. Early in the fall they take their families into some remote
nook, build a _barabara_ out of logs, thatch the entire outside surface
with native red-top hay to keep out the cold, and pile large logs all
over the hay to keep it from blowing away. They dry salmon, cod, and
flounders for their winter supply. When the fur becomes prime they set
their traps for fox, ermine, and land otter, and in this way eke out a
miserable existence. It is said of them that in their early days they
were honest to a fault, theft being punished by death, but on
associating with the whites they acquired all the faults of the latter
with none of the good.
[Illustration: Indian Barabara]
[Illustration: Kodiak Island Pinks]
The dawn of another day brought a hazy sky and the indications foretold
wet weather. True to our expectations it rained the greater portion of
the day. In the afternoon it cleared up somewhat and towards evening the
sun came out bright. We then visited Gull Island to get a few fresh eggs
for breakfast. The Arctic tern (_Sterna paradisæa_) had a large
community on the rocky island. When we approached they hovered over us
in great numbers. The kittiwakes (_Rissa tridactyla_) also had a colony.
In many nests on the island, the eggs were blotched and streaked in
various shades. They were about the size of an ordinary hen egg, were
palatable, and we used quite a number to make pancakes. After
photographing several nests with eggs and a few wild flowers that grew
very abundantly on the rocks near the water's edge, we returned to camp,
had supper, consisting of eggs, bear steak, etc., after which we retired
for the night about ten o'clock, it being still almost daylight, for
during June the days are twenty-two hours long.
We again desired to change our camp into the adjoining bay, so we pulled
stakes and started for a fifteen-mile trip. The tide was in our favor,
but with a head wind we pulled our little dory down to the turning
point, where tide and wind helped us on our way.
When we were about half-way up we came upon a camp of Italian fishermen
who had just arrived from "Frisco" to fish for salmon during the
season's run. We turned our boat towards shore and landed to meet our
neighbors. They were a villainous-looking lot, about two dozen in all,
and could speak no English, except the foreman, and we could understand
him only with difficulty. We succeeded in letting him know we were
anxious to have a few fish for supper, and soon several of the men were
making a haul with the seine for our special benefit, so we had all the
fish we wanted. After exchanging compliments, our little sail was
hoisted, and as the boat sped over the water we waved a good-bye to the
"bunch," although we understood they wanted us to spend the night with
them. Before we had gone very far the wind died down to a gentle breeze,
and much to our disappointment we had to take down our sail, for it
flapped around like a wounded bird, here, there, and everywhere, without
wind enough to make it taut. We took the oars about seven o'clock and
before long the water became so calm that the snow-capped mountains
reflected their peaks on the waters of the bay, seeming to use the
smooth surface for a mirror, as they stood majestic in their garments of
white. We rode along in silence, hour after hour, past the huge
mountains of granite, slate, and sandstone, with here and there a
stringer of quartz. I could not but wonder what a force must have been
at work to have caused such an upheaval. Beautiful clusters of pink,
yellow, and purple flowers were clinging to the perpendicular face of
the rocks, and relieved much of the severity of outline. As we advanced
toward the head of the bay, the eagles, in their solitude perching here
and there on the topmost pinnacles, eyed us with suspicion. Now and
again one would leave the cliff, soar round and round overhead until we
passed out of sight, doubtless wondering what strange creatures these
were. We arrived at the head of the bay about midnight in this land of
twilight, and soon had a good wood fire alongside a big cottonwood tree,
where with "spuds" and flounders, hard tack and a tin of hot "Old
English Breakfast," we were quite contented. After a corncob pipe and a
short story or two, we threw our blankets on the beach and were quickly
in the Land of Nod.
The next morning we were up about the time the sun was casting his rays
over the eastern snow-capped peaks. What a picture for an artist! If
painted true to nature almost any person would say, "Overdrawn,
overdrawn!" yet with the deep blue sky for a background, the white
mountains in bold relief, pushing their tops into the blue, and the
green foothills and the placid waters of the bay in the foreground, how
could the scene be overdrawn? In that dawn of morning the flight of
ducks to and from the feeding grounds was numerous, the most conspicuous
of them all being the harlequin duck (_Histrionicus histrionicus_)
because of the prominent black and white stripes. It builds its nest
along the mountain stream which dashes and tosses down the gorge, and
when the young are hatched leads them to the sea.
Just as soon as we got a bite to eat, with our rifles and field-glasses
we started for our daily hunt. On our way up the mountain a little brown
body streaked with black fluttered out from beneath a tuft of grass
underneath the pussy willows. Stooping and separating the dry grass, we
exposed the four whitish eggs of the white-crowned sparrow (_Zonotrichia
leucophrys_). In about an hour we saw a large bear traveling at a rapid
gait--at times running--along the mountain just at the snow-line. We sat
down and watched him through the glasses, hoping he would soon find a
place to his liking to take a little snooze. After paralleling the
entire base of the mountain he passed behind a small group of rocks and
emerged on the other side against the snow, where we could see him very
plainly as he turned back toward the rocks. We were quite sure he had
found a bed that would suit his purpose. We knew if he once lay down he
was more than likely to stay for a long nap.
In about twenty minutes we started after Old Bruin in earnest. Into
alder and elder we plunged, plodding along just as fast as we could,
bringing out the perspiration in beads on our red faces. The sun was
very hot and our tramp was difficult,--over rocks, under limbs, using
the toes of our guns as alpenstocks, we puffed and blew, going higher
and higher. "Oh, how deceiving!" often I thought as we climbed each
little knoll, only to find on arriving at the top that our objective
point was still in the distance. To be sure, we rested many times before
we reached the place. The uncertainty of the wind annoyed us greatly,
and often the only way we could tell how it was blowing was by tossing a
few crushed leaves into the air.
After two hours' hard work we arrived at the place best suited for us to
get a shot at Mr. Bear, when he should leave the thickest of the alder.
We maneuvered around the top a considerable time, found his trail
following a ravine up the mountain, and in this way he reached the
opening of an extinct crater. At the very time when we were expecting a
shot at any minute, he must have been on the other side of the mountain.
Wearily we slipped, slid, and tramped our way down. By the time we
reached camp, hungry and tired, it was well along in the afternoon.
After getting something to eat we took a couple of hours' nap, and
again watched the foothills in the hope of discovering the object of
our search, but in vain.
We had several beautiful days; in fact, the middle of the day was too
hot to hunt with any comfort. If you had been watching, you might have
seen a solitary pair wending their way up along the river flat; one tall
and well built in proportion, with a broad-brimmed western hat on his
head, the other small in stature, with a small slouch hat set on the
back of his head, one carrying a Winchester and the other an Eastman
kodak. If you had observed closely, you would have noticed that both
hats were constantly turning in a semicircle from side to side, as the
eyes were busy scanning every direction, expecting that the quarry would
put in an appearance somehow, somewhere; for we had arrived at the
conclusion that we would have to work harder in order to get a big
specimen of the Kodiak bear. We followed the river valley for ten miles
without seeing any fresh signs. About noon we ate our lunch, stretched
out in the warm sun, and slept peacefully for several hours, then turned
towards camp, hunting on our way back.
Up to this time the bear seemed to live up on the very tops of the
mountains and occasionally to come down about the snow-line and again
return. We had several wild-goose chases after them, only to discover
that they were somewhere else. Now we noticed they were beginning to
feed on the grass and come down into the valley. The leaves were pretty
well developed by this time. Hunting big bear in the alder is very
dangerous sport, for at any minute a big she with her cubs might rise up
close by and make a charge. If our guns should catch in the brush, the
jig would be all up, for the bear are large and hard to stop at close
range. My guide said that not many men will hunt them in this way and
told me he had had several narrow escapes himself. On one occasion he
dropped a big fellow right at his feet. They vary in size; the largest
skin in the picture on page 105 measured eleven by nine feet. They also
vary in color from a dark brown to yellow. The specimens I have seen
have a tawny crescent just back of the neck.
The natives do not hunt the bear by following them through the brush,
and have a wholesome fear of stalking them afoot. I have been told that
the only way they will hunt is to follow the coast line in a _bidarka_,
and when the bear come out to feed on the fish along some stream they
kill them. My guide, who has had a great deal of experience with the
natives of the peninsula, told me that he could sell all the bear
intestines to the natives, getting a good price for them. Out of these
intestines they make water-proof coats, called _kamlaykas_. In the early
spring they examine the intestines very carefully. They consider that in
bear killed as soon as they come out of hibernation the intestines are
useless, for they believe the bear retire to their winter quarters in
the fall gorged with fish. The fish bones perforate the intestines and
it takes several weeks for them to heal enough to make the best
water-proof coats.
We worked our way up to the snow-line and hunted until ten o'clock
without getting a sight of one, although we trailed a large bear a long
way through the grass. They are great tramps and will travel many miles
without stopping. Where this one crossed the creek the water was not yet
dried on the leaves when we came up. For four days the weather was fine
and as it was not necessary to put our tent up, a great deal of time
could be saved in this way.
On our wandering about the island, about five o'clock one evening the
fishermen's camp was reached and they treated us royally, gave us a
square meal of candle fish, some tobacco, sugar and tea, and sent us on
our way rejoicing. We pulled along all day without any incident of much
interest. Once two bald eagles soared over our heads, and my guide could
not resist the temptation. Up went his rifle and three times in
succession the shot brought some feathers out of the wings, while the
fourth brought the bird pitching headlong into the bay. At one point we
watched an eagle in the air with two crows after him. It was evident the
crows had their nest nearby and the eagle had ventured too near. The
crows seemed to have the best of the fight, for they would take turns in
darting down on their foe, while the eagle seemed to be helpless in the
air, for the crows would strike and be away before he could harm them.
Now our thoughts turned homeward, but we realized that it would take
some time to pull with oars seventy or eighty miles in a dory to Kodiak.
Breaking camp one morning about two o'clock, we tried to get out with
the tide, but unfortunately we were caught on the flats and were forced
to spend six hours until the tide returned. Being anxious to get home as
soon as possible, we were using every effort to gain time, and one
little experience we had I shall not forget as long as I live. The wind
had been blowing a gale all day, and about nine o'clock in the evening,
after making slow progress, we came to a point which would require us
either to lie by for the balance of the night, then follow the shore
line for about ten miles, or cross directly over a distance of about
three miles to the other side of the bay. The wind had died down
considerably and was blowing toward us from the other shore; we were
anxious to cross and discussed the advisability of trying it, finally
deciding that we could do so safely. With both at the oars, the dory
loaded to within three or four inches of the water, and the breakers
running, we started across and got along fairly well until we were about
midway over. We naturally expected the whitecaps would diminish in size
and the wind would be going down, when to our dismay the wind rose, the
waves grew more boisterous, and about every seventh wave would toss part
of its volume clear over us. Occasionally I would ship the oars, grab
the tomato can, and bail frantically until the water was almost all
out,--then to the oars again to assist in keeping the boat under
control. My companion was skillful in handling the boat, and while I was
bailing out the craft he had to make desperate efforts to keep the bow
cutting the rollers diagonally; but gradually the wind seemed to get
the boat out of its safest course, and then I had to take up the oars
and help to right her again. To say the least, I realized the
predicament we were in. At the time, I had almost given up the idea of
reaching the shore in safety, and one who has never had a similar
experience cannot understand the feeling of hope that rose within us as
we advanced nearer the other side.
While we were still battling with wind and wave, I promised myself that
if we reached safety I would never again risk a similar experience, and
yet on the following day we pulled the boat fourteen miles across the
mouth of another such bay, with the water as smooth as glass all the way
over. Knowing the rapidity with which the wind can rise over those
treacherous straits and the risk we were taking after the experience of
the previous day, neither of us spoke more than half a dozen words
during the entire time until we landed safely.
Returning at last to Kodiak, we caught a boat for Valdez, whence we
engaged passage on the homeward cruise. Taking the outside route from
Valdez to Seattle, we experienced a rough voyage. At the captain's table
were seated about a dozen passengers, all in high spirits in
anticipation of reaching home, and thankful that we had not taken
passage on the _Valentia_, the preceding steamer, which was wrecked on
the rocks before it got rightly started. One by one the members of the
party would fail to put in an appearance on account of seasickness. One
day the captain complimented the author on being such a good sailor, but
in answer I suggested that he wait a little. I felt it coming on, and
sure enough the captain had the table to himself at the very next meal.
One night while lying in my bunk I was aroused from a doze by a shout
from the occupant of the under bunk: "There's a rat in your bed! There's
a rat in your bed!" I looked out to see my informant standing on a
chair. In a short time we had a light, and in the bunk we found a Mother
Carey's chick that had been attracted by the light on the boat and
entered the room. We caught the little bird and kept it until morning.
It seemed not to be disturbed by our attentions, indeed was content to
cuddle down in our hands. Its apparent tameness was probably due to the
fact that its habits are partly nocturnal.
After three or four stormy days, with the sea running high and breaking
in whitecaps over the deck, not a thing to be seen save the sailors and
the albatross following in the wake of the steamer, we reached the port
of Seattle. The vision and the sensation of the tossing and pitching
waters remained with us, and on landing we found that our "sea legs"
made walking on terra firma a very awkward process.