_NORWAY, GERMANY, AND SWITZERLAND._
"A voice spake in their ear,
And lo! all other voices far and near
Died at that whisper full of meanings clear."
WHITTIER.
Eli and Sybil Jones attended the London yearly meeting of 1853, and
were liberated to go to the Continent for gospel work in Norway,
Germany, and France. Mary James Lecky was their companion, and was in
all respects a most suitable person for this service. Unknown
difficulties were before them; new races of people were to be touched
through an unknown language; hard journeys were to be made by a
feeble, almost invalid woman; still, they turned toward the shores of
Norway, believing that He whose finger pointed the way would shield
them with His hand. Once more they unquestioningly gave immediate
obedience to the word of their great Captain, and they knew His ways
well enough to be assured that the result would be the desired one.
Joseph Crosfield offered to go as a caretaker for the little party,
and he was of great help to them. When they arrived at Liverpool from
Ireland, an elderly doctor was called to see Sybil Jones. After
examining her trouble carefully, he said, "You know David had it in
his heart to build the Lord an house. In his case the will was taken
for the work; so it must be in yours. You must stop your work and go
south, or go to your home at once." If this doctor had followed his
patient, he would have found her in the northern latitude of Norway.
The great Physician's order conflicted with that of the doctor, and
there could be no doubt which was to be followed.
On the 11th of 6th month they embarked on the steamer "Courier" for
Christiansand, being joined by James Backhouse and Lindley M. Hoag,
making a company of six. The passage was very rough, and all on board
were brought low with sea-sickness, but the German Ocean was soon
crossed, and they came into port at Christiansand, finding it light
enough at midnight to read and write and to see the beautiful
Norwegian scenery around them.
The western coast of Norway is everywhere indented by arms of the sea
called fiords; the coasts are rough and rugged, overhung with crags of
rock beaten and worn by the age-long dash of these northern waters.
Into these fiords has rushed the ship of many a bold seaman, and the
shores are tilled by a hardy race, carrying in their veins the
civilized blood of the old Norse warrior. These descendants of
Northern mythology rejoice when messengers come to tell the simple way
of life and joy through the Saviour, and their boats are ready to bear
strangers from one promontory across the fiord to another. They come
in crowds to hear of the better way, and yet in many places they have
escaped the thraldom of Thor and Odin only to bow their necks to the
yoke which the priests make them bear.
"There are many flourishing towns and villages pleasantly situated on
the fiords, easily accessible by boat. The scenery is grand and
picturesque--lofty mountains, verdant lawns, and flowery vales, with
now and then a beautiful cascade or mountain-torrent rushing and
mingling its snow-white foam with the crystal waters below. Formerly
the Friends' meeting was held at Stavanger Fiord, but there were
numerous Friends scattered along the coast.
"_6th mo. 25, 1853._ This day the Norway yearly meeting commenced at
ten o'clock. A deep solemnity came over us. A few words with life and
feeling from dear Mary J. Lecky opened the way for L. M. Hoag, who
testified the gospel of the grace of God to a deeply interested
assembly. In the afternoon we assembled for business, which was
conducted under a good influence and very orderly. The subject of
addressing King Oscar on account of the suffering of some of the
members by the exaction of tithes was discussed and referred to a
committee. Two persons were received into membership, and two more
applied. The certificates of ministers present were read, after which
several lively testimonies were borne and counsel offered, and all
ended well."
When the yearly meeting was finished the Friends held meetings with
the prisoners and visited the different schools, holding meetings also
at their hotels and once or twice in a barn. They went as far north as
Bergen, where they had remarkable assemblies of people notwithstanding
the fact that the priests spread the report that these Quakers were
dangerous people and did not believe in God. They were refused
permission to visit the prisoners; however, they sent Bibles and
tracts to them, not being allowed to distribute them in person. The
inhabitants of Bergen were highly displeased at the conduct of the
ecclesiastics, and it seemed that many more came to hear the Friends
for themselves on account of the unchristian spirit which was
manifested toward them, and numbers came to their hotel to be
instructed. It was very touching to their tender spirits to see an
eagerness for better things so crushed out by so-called teachers. "The
flock look up and are not fed." Having done what they could, they
returned to Stavanger, and spent much time visiting families and
holding public meetings. When they took the boat to leave this place
the people wished they would send them more "good bodies" to teach
them.
They travelled all the way from Stavanger to Christiansand, a distance
of ninety-four miles, in an open boat, walking across the isthmuses
from one fiord to another and carrying the boat over with them. From
Christiansand they went by boat to Christiania, where they had a
meeting with the seamen, besides other public meetings, all well
attended. Then they prepared to leave Norway for Kiel, Denmark, on
their way to Germany, having travelled twelve hundred miles in Norway,
mostly by boat, and having held fifty meetings, besides visiting many
families; in all of which work they were wonderfully helped with
strength, and the Spirit of the Lord was with them.
The 16th of 7th month they left Norway, bound for Denmark. They
sailed down by Jutland and entered the Cattegat. Along the shores they
saw "highly-cultivated fields of grain, white for harvest, shepherds
keeping their flocks beside the meandering streams, reposing beneath
the shade, while the sheep were feeding in green pastures, which were
interspersed with neat red-roofed cottages."
They went directly to Minden, where most of the few German Friends
live, who, unfortunately, are becoming fewer and fewer. After visiting
these families and attending their mid-week meeting, they rode to
Oberkirchen in Hesse. "Soon after reaching our hotel," they write, "we
were visited by the police, who inquired our business, telling us we
could not be allowed to hold any public meetings in the place--that it
would be contrary to the law to allow any dissenter from the Lutheran
Church to hold a meeting. We informed them we had no such purpose, but
came to visit those who had left the public worship and professed with
us. They then withdrew, appearing quite ashamed of their business; but
after coffee, when we were engaged in prayer, they again appeared,
telling us that if we intended to have a public meeting they must
request us to leave the place. We told them again our intention, and
they took our names and withdrew. We asked our landlord why peaceable
American citizens were molested by the police and their business
inquired into, assuring him that it was the first time in all our
travels in various countries that we had been remanded before the
authorities--that many of their countrymen came unmolested to our
country and were treated civilly. He replied that the conduct of the
police had highly displeased him, and on inquiring into the cause of
it he found that the priests had sent them."
From Minden, Eli and Sybil Jones went on to Pyrmont, where they
attended the "two-months" meeting. They held a public meeting in the
Friends' house, and some people of note came to hear them. One, a
Russian noble of high birth; Dr. Menke, one of the privy council of
the prince of Waldeck, who was said to be one of the most learned men
in Prussia; also Frederick Fickenscher, the son of the dean of
Nuremberg; besides many Jews, all of whom heard "Jesus Christ, and Him
crucified," preached.
Eli Jones had some opportunities for conversation with Fickenscher,
and he impressed on him the importance of our opinions in regard to
war, oaths, and other subjects, and he was urged to accept the gospel
in all its fulness. Dr. Menke came to express to them his satisfaction
with the meeting, saying that he _had_ thought that the views of
Friends were rather _fabulous_, but he was now satisfied that they
were evangelical, and he hoped what he had heard would be useful to
him. They revisited Minden, and had much service among Friends and
others, both publicly and in private. They held a large meeting in the
Minden theatre, of which Eli Jones writes: "A full attendance, several
clergymen present. Some Friends seemed to doubt the propriety of
holding a meeting in a building usually applied to theatrical
purposes; but, to my mind, there was a fitness in the place, that we
might have an opportunity to speak to a class which we could hardly
reach anywhere else."
From Minden they journeyed by short stages south, stopping at
Düsseldorf, where they visited the schools and charity institution; at
Cologne, Bonn, Strasbourg, Basle. In Basle they held a meeting with
sixty young men, students at the Basle mission-house, who were looking
forward to becoming missionaries in the different parts of the world.
A fellow-feeling led them to point these young men to the words of the
Lord: "Without me ye can do nothing." They then took a carriage, going
as far as the Lake of Geneva. It was so arranged that Sybil Jones
could recline, being then far from well.
Sybil Jones writes:
"_10th mo. 8th._ This morning set off for Geneva by steamboat from
Vevay. It being near the head of the lake, our starting-point was
delightful, and our trip on the fair blue water interesting amid the
grand mountains which encircle the lake. They rise like vast
battlements above the clouds in some places. Mont Blanc, the monarch
of mountains, was pointed out. We arrived at the ancient, interesting
city of Geneva about four o'clock. From our room at the Hôtel du Rhône
we have a fine view of the Rhone, which leaves the lake a few yards
above and dashes by our windows, washing the basement story with its
blue waters, hastening on to mingle with the great Mediterranean.
"_9th._ The work never seemed more weighty and watchfulness and prayer
more needful. Our company attended a meeting held by Merle d'Aubigné,
the author of the _History of the Reformation_. He made a report of
the proceedings of the Evangelical Alliance held at Berlin, giving
interesting information of the state of feeling existing between the
different religious denominations on the Continent, who find
themselves more in unison than formerly.
"_11th._ Held a large meeting in the Casino. The Lord was with us.
Dear Christine Alsop interprets well; indeed, we lack nothing.
"_12th._ To-day several serious persons have called, with whom we have
had very interesting conversations about the things which appertain to
eternal life. A very agreeable person came to offer his thanks for the
privilege of the meeting, adding, 'I think it will do good, for I have
been examining the Epistle of Paul, and I am certain he did not mean
to forbid a woman's preaching the glad tidings of a risen Saviour, but
rather counselled the women not to be asking improper questions in
their church-meetings nor to exercise authority or teach in the matter
of church discipline; for it is plain that holy women of old _did_
prophesy (that is, preach), and that Paul did not attempt to hinder
them. He also informed us that a philosophical deist was present last
evening whom he had never seen at a religious meeting before, and that
he fully expected that he would turn it all into ridicule, but, to his
astonishment, he looked serious and said, 'I never heard anything like
this; I scarcely know what to say. It was surely an interesting
discourse.' So we do indeed see that God sometimes chooses 'the weak
things of this world to confound the mighty.' We were informed that
many came who were never seen at meetings on ordinary occasions.
Attended another meeting at the 'Locale,' which was sweet and
refreshing.
"_13th._ Some pious persons have called, among them a very devoted
_pasteur_ with his daughter, whose name is Lalia. They called just as
we were seated for reading the Scriptures, and joined us. During the
silence I felt the spirit of supplication, but it seemed not to belong
to me to pray vocally, and I said that if any person felt it a duty to
pray I hoped that he would be faithful. Unknown to me, the _pasteur_
had just asked C. Alsop in French if there was liberty; she replied in
my words. It was a precious season of prayer and praise. In the
evening we attended an appointment for youth and children. It was
large and solemn, and I reverently trust Christ was preached.
"_14th._ The interest of the people in our meetings still increases,
and many inquirers come to see us, thanking us for the privilege and
asking if there will be more meetings. Jane Bingham and sister, with
Maria Ferris, arrived to-day from Montreux, not having heard of our
meetings until we had left. They are Friends from England; it was
pleasant to meet them. A female superintendent and teacher of young
ladies called and took tea, and seemed very devoted to the cause of
her Redeemer. She follows this business not for gain to herself, but
for gain to others. Her pupils are occupying prominent places, adorned
with wisdom and virtue.
"_15th._ Robert Fox, son, and daughter arrived to-day and took
lodgings with us. Our party numbers twelve. It is pleasant to meet
these dear friends while on a tour for their health. We took a short
ride this morning in a carriage provided by dear M. J. L. to the
country-seat of the Count de Selon, who was an ardent advocate of
peace. In the grounds is an obelisk raised over his remains, with
interesting inscriptions on the subject of peace. We hope his faithful
labors may not be lost. From this beautiful place we had a fine view
of Mont Blanc at sunset; which was magnificent. The snows of ages
changed to crimson; the beautiful azure lake and the fine city of
Geneva lay in loveliness before us.
"_16th._ To-day held two precious meetings at our hotel, to which a
number of serious people came, and expressed themselves especially
pleased with the _silence_, saying that it was needed in these times
of commotion.
"_17th._ Returned by steamer to Lausanne. Took lodgings at a hotel
which is on the spot where Gibbon wrote his celebrated _History of the
Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire_. Had meeting of much interest;
many _pasteurs_ present. A _pasteur_ full of the spirit of peace
informed us that many who had preached against war in Lausanne had
suffered imprisonment. The _pasteur_ wished us to go to Lyons and
preach two such sermons there, saying that they were needed. He did
not understand that we could not preach except we were sent, nor give
forth anything but what we receive at the time.
"Took steamer for Vevay; dined at the hotel, and in the evening held a
meeting in the Casino, after which we rode to Montreux and took
lodgings at a _pension_. Next day held a large meeting at the national
place of worship called the 'Temple.' It was a solemn and instructive
convocation. The forenoon was occupied in a pleasant walk by the lake
at the foot of a mountain, on the side of which stands the village
and old chapel of Montreux; on the left and before us the ancient
castle of Chillon, and the Dent du Midi Mountain covered with snow. On
the right lay the lovely lake, on the other side of which rises a
majestic range of mountains. I became weary of walking, and we called
at a mansion just on the border of the lake. The master is a young
Jew, and of a very tender Christian spirit. We had delightful
conversation with him on heavenly things. He had attended one of our
meetings, and was much struck with our manner of worship. He said that
when we began to speak (Christine and myself) he imagined we had
composed the discourse and committed it to memory, but soon he
perceived the interpreter made a mistake, which rather puzzled him,
and another mistake convinced him that she could not have known what I
was to say previously. Indeed, he thought it was spoken so rapidly it
must come from the heart as it was uttered. He was much edified, and
spoke of those solemn truths with great diffidence and tenderness. His
name is Samuel Samelson. May Israel's gentle Shepherd lead him to the
blessed knowledge of the truth as it is in Jesus and enable him to
confess Him before men! Our young friend provided me with a donkey,
which conveyed me to the residence of the Hustlers, who have resided
here some time. They were formerly English Friends, and received us
with joy. The wife is in very delicate health. We sat together in
sweet heavenly silence, and the language of the Spirit through the
poor instrument was encouraging and humbling. Returned on the donkey
by a shorter route on the side of the mountain. My heart responded to
the music of birds and the smile of Nature. After dining we took a
drive to Chillon, the ancient château where Bonnivard was imprisoned
on account of his political views for several years. The château
stands in the lake. Within it is a range of dungeons below the surface
of the water where prisoners of state and the condemned are confined.
Across one of the vaults is a beam black with age where the executions
took place. It is said two thousand Jews perished here by the hands of
enemies. As we viewed these walls and sombre apartments we were struck
by a sense of man's inhumanity to man and the rapid flight of events
so momentous. How long, O Lord, ere thou takest unto thyself the great
power and reignest?
"_22d._ Called on a bereaved father and mother who were mourning the
death of an only child. We told them of Him who wounds that He may
heal. We also visited a widow and her daughter who knew dear Stephen
Grelet, and remembered his heart-searching ministry among them.
Pasteur Godet was with us a short time. He is a pious, humble
Christian from Neufchatel, who has left the honors of the world (he
had been tutor of the king of Prussia), a man of learning and talent;
which qualities seem sweetly sanctified. At two o'clock P. M. attended
a youths' meeting.
"_23d._ A meeting was held at the Hustlers', which our party attended,
but I was quite ill in bed, but reposing in Him who is my only source
of joy.
"_24th._ Not able to proceed. Dined in the _salle_, and with a
grateful heart was able to return thanks vocally, which seemed to
impress the large company with a serious air. After dining, several
spoke to us kindly, among whom was a baroness from Sweden, who warmly
pressed us to go thither, saying there were many in Sweden who would
receive us warmly, and her own house should be at our disposal for a
home. Invited the family and boarders to our evening reading. Much
tenderness was shown. Many have called on us and expressed their
gratitude for our visit and gospel labors among them. We are sweetly
united to a living seed in this land.
"_25th._ Took our departure from this highly interesting field of
labor after an affectionate parting. We took the omnibus to Villeneuve
and found the steamer ready. After passing the most magnificent
scenery we were soon again at Lausanne. Made arrangements for a
meeting next day.
"_26th._ In the morning held a meeting with the prisoners in the
beautiful prison here. I think it the finest and most comfortable I
have ever seen in any land. Our visit was deeply interesting, and the
poor girls were nearly all in tears, and seemed truly grateful for the
message of love to them. In the evening held a large and favored
meeting at the Casino. Our boat was detained by the dense fog, so we
were obliged to remain another day, which seemed providential, as a
_pasteur_ called and told us of two Moravian schools taught by
pasteurs, one of whom had expressed regret at not hearing of our
meeting or not seeing us. He offered to accompany us to one of the
schools. C. Alsop, our interpreter, had gone to visit an acquaintance,
so Mary Millman, a sweet-tempered girl who spoke English well and who
accompanied us, acted as interpreter. The kind pasteur received us
cordially, and offered to assemble the girls; which was agreeable to
us. I think we have seldom known a more heavenly season. The Lord
poured out a rich blessing upon us. We returned with songs of praise
to our hotel. Have had many calls to-day from Christian brothers and
sisters, expressing their interest in our labors among them. A very
zealous person called who spoke with much tenderness of J. and M.
Yardly, who were instrumental in her conversion. Held a meeting in the
evening which was much blest.
"_28th._ Set off early this morning to visit the Moravian school for
boys, taking the same kind interpreter with us. We received a hearty
welcome, and were informed that the boys had just assembled to
commence Scripture history, and that if we could feel something good
to say to them they would be so glad. Dear E. replied that we came for
that purpose. We were soon seated in a pleasant youthful congregation.
Some countenances testified that they had been with Jesus. The pasteur
read a chapter; solemn silence ensued, then a gentle shower of gospel
love descended and the little plants revived. I cannot doubt but there
are young men in this institution who will fill important places of
usefulness, perhaps ministers of the gospel who will publish the glad
tidings to lands remote. Surely such men, fearing God, are much needed
in this degenerate age. The pasteur offered a sweet-spirited prayer
with tears of gratitude, and we came away. Reached the steamer in good
time. We feel much fellowship with many dear friends in Lausanne.
Arrived at Geneva, and, concluding to go on to Lyons at once, we had
to sacrifice our desires to see the dear friends again."