About January 3, 1916, I was warned to proceed with a small

Produced by Jeannie Howse, David Clarke and the Online

Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This

file was produced from images generously made available

by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries)

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| Transcriber's Note: |

| |

| Inconsistent hyphenation in the original document has |

| been preserved. |

| |

| For the interest of the reader, 'the morning hate' is |

| WWI slang for the "Stand To Arms". |

| |

| Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. For |

| a complete list, please see the end of this document. |

| |

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* * * * *

Q. 6. A

AND OTHER PLACES

Q. 6. A

AND OTHER PLACES

RECOLLECTIONS OF

1916, 1917, 1918

BY

FRANCIS BUCKLEY

LONDON

SPOTTISWOODE, BALLANTYNE & CO. LTD.

1 NEW-STREET SQUARE, E.C. 4

1920

INTRODUCTION

In the following pages I have tried to set down as faithfully as I can

some of the impressions which remain to me now of three years' service

in France and Flanders.

I have naturally suppressed much of the grim and ghastly horrors that

were shared by all in the fighting area. A narrative must be written

from some point of view, and I have had to select my own. I regret

that so much personal and trivial incident should appear. Perhaps some

will be able to see through the gross egotistical covering and get a

glimpse, however faint, of the deeds of deathless heroism performed by

my beloved comrades--the officers and men of the 7th Northumberland

Fusiliers, the officers and men of the 149th Infantry Brigade, the

officers and men of the 50th Division.

The climax of the story is the battle on the Somme where so many dear

friends have perished. The name is taken from a spot where a small

party of the 7th N.F. did something long afterwards to avenge their

fallen comrades.

Finally no criticism of the Higher Command is intended by anything

that has been written. If such can be read between the lines, it is

unintentional and a matter for sincere regret.

CONTENTS

PAGE

I. WHEN IT BEGAN 1

II. THE MEN OF THE NORTH COUNTRY 7

III. ALNWICK 12

IV. THE JOURNEY OUT 17

V. HILL 60 22

VI. MOUNT SORREL AND CANNY HILL 31

VII. KEMMEL 41

VIII. DIVISIONAL REST 48

IX. BRIGADE HEAD-QUARTERS 52

X. THE BRIGADE BOMBING SCHOOL 59

XI. ST. ELOI AND NEUVE EGLISE 64

XII. THE SOMME 68

XIII. HÉNENCOURT 72

XIV. MAMETZ WOOD 76

XV. THE 15TH SEPTEMBER, 1916 80

XVI. MILLENCOURT 87

XVII. HOOK SAP 90

XVIII. SECOND LEAVE--BRESLE 97

XIX. BUTTE OF WARLENCOURT--TRENCH WARFARE 102

XX. FRANCE AND THE FRENCH 107

XXI. SOUTH OF THE SOMME 115

XXII. THE BATTLE OF ARRAS 122

XXIII. WANCOURT TOWER--CROISILLES 125

XXIV. MONCHY-AU-BOIS 139

XXV. TRENCH WARFARE--VIS-CHERISY FRONT 143

XXVI. THE HOUTHULST FOREST 153

XXVII. DIVISIONAL REST NEAR ST. OMER 161

XXVIII. THE PASSCHENDAELE RIDGE 165

XXIX. GOOD-BYE TO THE 50TH DIVISION 173

XXX. DIGGING TRENCHES ABOUT LOOS 176

XXXI. THE GERMAN OFFENSIVE 1918--SECOND BATTLE OF ARRAS 182

XXXII. TRENCH WARFARE--HÉBUTERNE 203

XXXIII. TRENCH WARFARE--THE COLINCAMPS RIDGE 207

XXXIV. THE BRITISH OFFENSIVE 1918--BAPAUME RETAKEN 219

XXXV. THE STORMING OF THE HINDENBURG LINE NEAR TRESCAULT 224

XXXVI. THE GERMANS' LAST STAND 230

XXXVII. THE FINAL RUSH FORWARD 234

XXXVIII. THE END OF IT ALL 238

NOTE

The following abbreviations are used:

B.H.Q. = Brigade Head-quarters.

C.C.S. = Casualty Clearing Station.

C.O. = Commanding Officer.

C.T. = Communication Trench.

D.A.Q.M.G. = Deputy-Assistant-Quartermaster-General.

D.H.Q. = Divisional Head-quarters.

F.A. = Field Ambulance.

H.Q. = Head-quarters.

L.-C. = Lance-Corporal.

N.C.O. = Non-commissioned Officer.

O.C. = Officer Commanding.

O.P. = Observation Post.

O.T.C. = Officers' Training Corps.

Q.M. = Quartermaster.

R.T.O. = Railway Transport Officer.

Y.M.C.A. = Young Men's Christian Association.

Q. 6. A

RECOLLECTIONS OF 1916, 1917, AND 1918

I

WHEN IT BEGAN

Before the war I was living in London, with chambers at Lincoln's Inn.

I was not surprised when the trouble started. Ever since 1904 it was

reasonably clear to me that our country would have to fight the

Germans or go under.

The days before we declared war on Germany were spent in London.

During the last few of them it was as though a terrible thunderstorm

was hanging overhead, ready to burst: gloom and foreboding on the

faces of all. There is no doubt that most of our people were taken by

surprise and that they were aghast at the sudden gathering of the war

cloud. But when the stroke of fate fell and we were committed to the

war, there was a curious sense of relief in many hearts. Better death

and ruin than dishonour. A shameful peace or neutrality is for most

Englishmen harder to bear than all the horrors of war. Besides, this

struggle for freedom had to be fought out, though few can have

foretold the cost.

I had been rejected for the Territorial Force by the Army authorities

in 1908 on account of weak eyesight. I had therefore few hopes of

better luck in August 1914. At first only trained men were enrolled at

the Inns of Court O.T.C., and this went on for some months--till the

nation in fact began to realise the size of its task. So after two or

three vain attempts to find my way into the services, I had to be

content with the truncheon and armlet of a special constable. With

this force I had no special adventures, but I learnt a good deal about

the Vine Street Police area, and about the electric power stations of

the West End. Christmas Day was spent on duty in the streets, and

Easter Day found me still there. Then something happened which decided

my own little fate, as well perhaps as the fate of Europe. This was

the sinking of the good ship _Lusitania_ on May 7, 1915, under

peculiarly barbarous and inhuman circumstances. Eventually it brought

the Americans into the war, when they came to understand that the

German people gloried in the deed of shame. As for me, it took me once

again to the doors of the O.T.C. in Lincoln's Inn. If I could not go

as an officer I would at least go into the ranks. But by this time the

rush of officer recruits had died down, and they were not so

particular about eyesight. So on May 10, 1915, I found myself in

possession of a suit of khaki. It was second-or third-hand and an

indifferent fit, but it enclosed a glad heart. The die was cast, and

one little boat fairly launched on its perilous passage. Never have I

had cause to lament this step. If it has brought me great troubles and

anguish, it has also given peace of mind and the satisfaction of using

to the full such energy as I possess. It took me out of the stifling

heat of the town and gave me at least four years of an open-air life.

For which God be thanked! If it did not bring much promotion or

honour, it brought the friendship of real men, and a treasure greater

than all the stars and ribbons in the world.

A recruit at the Inns of Court O.T.C. had nothing to fear from those

in charge if he was willing to do his best. There was little

boisterousness or horse-play among the recruits, the dark shadow was

too close for that; and the spirit among my new comrades was one of

great earnestness. For the first two or three weeks we were trained in

Town near the H.Q. of the Battalion in Lincoln's Inn. After that

recruits were sent on to the camp at Berkhamsted for field training.

We were billeted on the local inhabitants. I stayed at the house of

Mr. Charles Dipple, from whose family I received much kind

hospitality. It was a sudden change for one who had spent the greater

part of ten years in London chambers. And at Berkhamsted they worked

you hard, almost to the last degree of physical endurance. Save once,

during a dark two weeks in France, I have never before or since felt

the same fatigue of body. Also the change of food was a little strange

and startling at first. The drill and discipline could do nothing but

good to a healthy man. The enthusiasm of nearly all was great, our

chief idea being to get ready and out to France or elsewhere before

the war should be over. Little did we know what the future had in

store.

There is nothing much to tell of this part of one's experience. One of

the most pleasant incidents was a fortnightly leave of thirty-six

hours at the week-end, which I used to spend with my friends in Town.

Night manoeuvres on Wednesdays and Fridays and guard duty were perhaps

the most unpleasant part of our lot. Some would add the adjutant's

parade on Saturday morning. But that was short, if not always sweet.

I had the good luck to win an unpaid lance-corporal's stripe towards

the end of my stay, chiefly, I think, on account of a certain aptitude

for drill, a clean rifle, and clean boots. Of this small achievement I

was and still am a little proud.

I left the battalion on getting my commission with respect for the

officers in charge of the training. The short experience in the ranks

was to be of great value afterwards, when I came to deal for the first

time as an officer with men in the ranks. It gave a certain sympathy

with them and taught what to avoid. It was the custom of our C.O.,

Lieut.-Col. Errington, to give a few words of advice to those leaving

the battalion to take up commissions. And I have never forgotten two

of the principles which he urged upon us. One was the constant

necessity for a soldier to deny himself in little things. The other

was the idea that every officer in his own command, however small, had

a duel to face with another officer in a similar position on the other

side; and that in this duel the one that used his brain best would

win. And so this embryo existence came to an end--a careless, happy

time with no particular thought for the troubles ahead. In the middle

of July 1915 I obtained a commission in the 3rd line Battalion of the

7th Northumberland Fusiliers, Territorials, supplying drafts to the

1st line battalion in France. I had no desire to display my ignorance

of things military before a group of neighbours and possibly

relations, so I applied for a commission, not in the Territorials of

the West Riding Regiment, but in a north-country battalion of

Territorials, with the 1st line fighting in France. The Territorial

Force seemed to me most suitable for one who had no military career in

view. And France, the land of old time romance and chivalry, gave a

more urgent call than Egypt or the East. The choice of a unit, if one

can be said to choose it, is fraught with greater consequences to

oneself than might be supposed. I cannot say after a lapse of three

years that the choice has proved unfortunate to me. It came about in

this way. We were doing a rifle parade one day at Berkhamsted, when

Lieut. Reynolds (N.F.) appeared with our company commander, Capt.

Clarke, and asked for the names of any men who would like to join the

3rd line of the 7th N.F. The 1st line battalion, he said, had just

been badly cut up in France, and we should be out there in four months

perhaps, certainly in six months. That was all the information we had,

but it was enough for me. A north-country territorial battalion and

France in six months--those were the attractions. I had never spent

more than one night in Northumberland and I knew of Alnwick only by

name. It was therefore rather a step in the dark; but to one who was

still ignorant of the meaning of a 'Brigade' or a 'Division' only

general considerations could appeal. And so on July 30, 1915, I set

off for Alnwick to join my battalion, with a new uniform and kit, with

a somewhat nervous feeling inside, but with a determination to do my

best.

II

THE MEN OF THE NORTH COUNTRY

I have a great respect and admiration for the men of Northumberland.

Especially for those who come from the country towns and villages, the

farm-lands and mines in the northern parts of the county. As soldiers

they have gained a name the world over, of which it would be idle for

me to talk. A cold climate and a fighting ancestry that goes back many

hundreds of years have produced some marked qualities in the race of

Northumbrians to-day. There are few of them that are not true to type,

few that you would not care to have as comrades in a tight corner.

Their stubborn courage and contempt for danger have been proved again

and again. The worse the outlook the more cheerful they seem to

become. Sturdy independence is there, and for this allowance has to be

made--slow to like and slow to change; if you are known as 'Mister'

So-and-so, whatever your rank, you have won their respect. No better

soldiers in the land can be found to hold or to fortify a position.

But I doubt whether they have quite the same genius for the

attack.[1] A certain lack of imagination, a certain want of

forethought, have always, as it seems to me, been a handicap to these

brave men when they attack. Again and again during an assault they

have fallen in hundreds, they have shown themselves as willing to die

in the open as in the trenches. But have they the wild fury that

carries the Scot, the Irishman, or the Frenchman over 'impossible'

obstacles? No, they are not an enthusiastic people, nor a very

imaginative one. And these qualities are needed to press home a

difficult attack. They are not as a whole a quick or a very

intelligent race. But for stark grim courage under the most awful

surroundings they stand second to none. There is a streak of

ruthlessness, too, in their dealings with the enemy; a legacy from the

old Border wars with the Scots. They are quite ready, if need be, to

take no prisoners. A hard and strong, but a very lovable race of men.

Yes, I think all the world of the men of the north, although I am not

blind to their faults. Taken as a whole no more handsome or manly set

of men can be found in the British Isles.

The Northumbrian dialect is difficult to understand until you get the

trick of it. And the trick of it is in the accent and intonation, and

not so much in any peculiar form of words. They have a peculiar way of

dropping their voices, too, which is sometimes disconcerting. But it

is a clean wholesome language, undefined by the disgusting and

childish obscenity which is too often a disgrace to other districts in

England. It reminds me a little of the Scottish tongue, but rather

more of the country speech in the northern parts of Yorkshire, but in

some ways it is all its very own. It must indeed be one of the

earliest surviving types of the Anglo-Saxon speech. I had no great

difficulty in understanding it, but to this day I am sometimes puzzled

to pick up what is said owing to that curious drop in the voice.

A word or two as well about the officers of the Northumberlands,

meaning, of course, the natives of the county. For them as well as for

the hardy miners and farmers of the north I have a very sincere

respect and liking. Better comrades on the field of battle no man

could wish for, better officers for a Territorial battalion it would

be hard to find. Their unbending courage, their gallant bearing in

danger, their cheerfulness and their care and thought for their men

have been responsible in a great measure for the successes won by the

Northumberland battalions and for the lamentable but noble sacrifices

when success was denied. Gallant and devoted soldiers they have been,

and well they have earned the love and admiration of their men. Always

cheerful whatever was on foot, readiest of all to turn a danger passed

into a jest. There could not be a better spirit in which to face the

long delays and the bitter disappointments of the war. Two outstanding

features in their character are, to my mind, practically universal,

whatever form they happen to take. An inherent pugnacity, and a

whole-hearted belief in and love of their county, which amounts to

something more than clannishness. They know everything about every

one in Northumberland, and with others they do not trouble themselves

much. They do not talk about it like the Scots, but it is there all

the same; and it has a profound influence on their actions and

judgment. Within this sacred circle, into which no outlandish man can

break, their pugnacity develops countless local feuds. And these feuds

can be bitter enough, and I do not think I ever met a north-countryman

without one. Generally there are two or three on foot at a time. One

town against another, the men who did against the men who did not.

Sometimes I have thought that these queer hereditary instincts, for

such they undoubtedly are, have led the men of the north astray. The

house has been divided against itself, justice has not been done, or

it has been delayed, incompetence has been allowed to spread its

blighting influence. In other words the love of their county and the

strength of their local feuds have at times blinded the men of the

north to the real interests of their country, when a united front and

a concentration of the best effort available were absolutely necessary

to get on with the war. To me the Northumbrian officer has been

universally kind, and I have never had the least discourtesy or

injustice from any of them, but many acts of kindness. But I have seen

with regret on several occasions a loss of effort and strength through

the divisions caused by prejudice. Thoroughly cheerful and a generous

and charming comrade, much given to hospitality, I do not think the

Northumbrian officer is always a very brilliant person intellectually.

There are many notable exceptions, but they are notable enough to

establish the impression.

Beyond these general observations it would be unwise--and I do not

intend--to enter into the domestic history of any battalion or

brigade. Better comrades one could not have, and a nobler and more

devoted body of men I have yet to meet.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] This criticism can of course be made of any troops of English

nationality.

III

ALNWICK

A short sketch of my stay at Alnwick may not be out of place. For

though it did not seem very adventurous at the time it had a great

influence on my subsequent career, both in France and afterwards. It

is a most romantic spot, with one of the finest castles in England.

The heather hills run down through corn-land towards the seashore; and

the general features of the countryside reminded me much of my own

home in the West Yorkshire hills. The curious battlements and gates in

the town and the monuments outside tell of a time when it was one of

England's front line posts against the raiding Scots. It seemed to me

to be a fitting spot to train men for the wars.

When I arrived at the end of July 1915 the H.Q. of the 3rd line

battalion were at the Star Hotel in Fenkle Street--very comfortable

but rather expensive quarters. Only a few of the officers had arrived

as yet. Just a few new-comers like myself, very green and raw, and

about four or five officers of the 1st line battalion who had returned

wounded from France. These latter had for the most part been wounded

at the battle of St. Julien in April 1915, during the 2nd Battle of

Ypres. They were now discharged from hospital and attached to the

draft battalion for training before going out once more. They were

very friendly and nice to the new-comers; and indeed we looked upon

them quite as veterans, although their active service in France had

not exceeded a few days. Capt. J. Welch, Lieuts. J.W. Merivale, E.

Nixon, and E. Fenwicke Clennell became special friends of mine, and I

am grateful for many acts of kindness from them both then and later on

abroad. The men of the battalion, also raw recruits and wounded men

returned from hospital, were quartered in the houses in the town. The

O.C. battalion was Major (afterwards Lieut.-Colonel and Brevet

Colonel) J.J. Gillespie, T.D., and the Adjutant Capt. W.A.C.

Darlington. The C.O. was a man of great personality, so much so that

he is one of the best known and most talked of persons in the

Northumberlands. A great organiser and a hard worker, who generally

got his own way with small and great, he has done much to make the

drafts efficient. I was lucky to find favour in his eyes, and our

relations were always friendly.

We had as near neighbours in Alnwick the Brigade of Tyneside Scottish,

who were encamped in the Pastures near the Castle, as fine a body of

men as you could wish to see. After staying for a while at the Star

our battalion moved out to Moorlaws Camp and we remained there under

canvas till the middle of October. In the meantime I was lent for

about five days to the 21st Provisional Battalion N.F., a home service

battalion, who were encamped at Cambois ('Cammis') on the sea-coast.

This was like a picnic for me, for all the officers there treated me

kindly and did not work me hard. One night I volunteered for night

duty and had the experience of visiting the sentries (all with loaded

rifles) at the various posts along the shore. Shortly after returning

to Alnwick I was sent, on September 2, to the Army School of

Signalling and Bombing at Tynemouth, and went through the Bombing

course, which lasted about a week. So primitive were the arrangements,

even at this date, that we were only taught how to improvise grenades

out of old jam tins, and how to fire them out of iron pipes as

trench-mortar bombs. We were indeed allowed to handle precious

specimens of the famous No. 3 (Hales) and No. 5 (Mills), but there

were not enough available for live practice. The West Spring Thrower

had not arrived, but I saw a trench catapult in action; and some dummy

Stokes bombs were fired off for us to see. At this course there was an

examination, and I got a first-class certificate as a grenade

instructor, an event which had considerable influence on my career in

France, as will appear later on. When I got back to Alnwick I found

the battalion under canvas at Moorlaws. Here I became 'grenadier

officer' to the battalion, and I had daily classes of men who had

volunteered to become bombers, or 'grenadiers' as they were then

called.

Live practice was carried out entirely with improvised bombs, old jam

tins and black powder. But we procured a certain number of dummies of

Nos. 1 and 5 to practise throwing. Major N.I. Wright (who had returned

wounded) took a great interest in our proceedings and had some dummy

grenades made for us. A gallant soldier with hard service in South

Africa and the Great War, he has always been a good friend to me. I

went on with the bombing till about October 20, when the battalion

returned to Alnwick and went into wooden huts in the Pastures. The

officers were billeted at a house called 'Alnbank,' a mansion some

little distance from the men's quarters. After this move I was

appointed Company Commander to C Company, a newly formed company with

only raw recruits in it. My second in command was Lieut. Joseph

Robinson, a dear friend, who had come all the way from the Argentine,

and whom I first met at the O.T.C. at Berkhamsted. He was known as

'Strafer Robinson' on account of being physical drill instructor, and

a pretty exacting one. I found the recruits in C Company most willing

and anxious to learn their job; and they never gave me much trouble

either in orderly room or on parade.

I was kindly treated by every one at Alnwick. My stay there has only

pleasant memories. Major the Hon. Arthur Joicey, who had returned

from the 1st line, gave me several glorious days after partridges at

Longhirst. The number of these birds so far north fairly astonished

me. The doctors' families in Alnwick were also very kind and

hospitable to all our officers. Mrs. Scott Jackson, the wife of the

Colonel of the 1st line battalion, could not do enough for us; and

many happy evenings have been spent at her house; notably a great New

Year's Eve party for all the officers, just before I left for the

front. I took part in a Rugby football match, the first time for

eleven years. The 3rd line 7th N.F. succeeded in defeating the reserve

battalion of the Tyneside Scottish, largely through the prowess of

2nd-Lieut. McNaught at half-back. There was rather a pleasant

institution towards the end of my stay--namely, a meeting of the

senior officers for dinner every Wednesday evening at the Plough Inn.

They did you well there, and it was a pleasant change from the mess

dinner.

About January 3, 1916, I was warned to proceed with a small draft of

officers to the front. Four of us were to go, and I was delighted to

find myself one of those selected. After a splendid farewell dinner

with the officers of the battalion on January 4, I left the same night

for London to spend my final leave.

IV

THE JOURNEY OUT

On Monday, January 10, 1916, I left England with three other officers,

bound for the Base Camp at Havre. My companions were 2nd-Lieuts.

Peters, O. Clarke, and Gregson. My final purchases at Southampton

included an extra haversack and some morphia pills. The latter had

been strongly recommended for certain kinds of wounds and they were

still sold without a prescription.[2] The journey across the Channel

was done at night. The transport left port about 8 P.M. and steaming

slowly without lights reached Le Havre about 5 A.M. next morning.

My last view of England was the dreary wet dock, and later on a few

distant and receding lights. Though we got into port at 5 A.M. we were

not allowed to leave the vessel till 8 A.M. But, at last, as a cold

and cheerless morning was breaking, I stepped ashore and set foot for

the first time on foreign soil. We soon found an hotel (? Hôtel de

Normandy) where they understood the English language and some of our

ways, and we got breakfast in the English fashion. After a look round

the shops and a shave in a small establishment in a side street, we

reported at a large office in the town. Here we signed our names in a

large register, and were given directions to proceed to a Camp, some

distance from the town, where reinforcements for the 7th N.F. were

collected and accommodated till they could be sent 'up the line.' Our

stay here was a short one, for which I was thankful. They did not seem

at all pleased to see us; it seems we had arrived a few days later

than had been expected, and the Camp Commandant appeared to think it

was our fault. We left Le Havre next day without having tasted the

joys of the 'Bull Ring' or any other educational entertainment

prepared for those staying on at the Camp. The train started about

midnight, and like most troop trains in France moved along in a

leisurely, dignified manner, with frequent stops and long waits

between the stations. When we did arrive at Rouen, which was about

midday on Thursday, we had to change. And feeling unrefreshed by our

night in the train, we spent the time resting at an hotel instead of

seeing the sights. But it is a fine looking old town and would be

worth visiting in more peaceful times.

We left Rouen again at night and wandered along in the same dilatory

fashion, arriving at Hazebrouck and eventually at Poperinghe.

The latter was railhead for the Ypres Salient. It was not surprising

then to find the houses near the railway station looking shattered

from the shells and bombs that had been aimed at the station. We had

tea with the Y.M.C.A., who had with their usual dauntlessness selected

a house close to the station. It had been struck by a bomb a few

nights before, and there was a hole in the roof and in the ceiling and

floor of one of the rooms; but I understood that no one had been hurt

by the explosion. These shattered houses and the distant sound of gun

fire, which we first heard about Hazebrouck, were the first signs of

war that we noticed. After a long wait a limber arrived at the station

to take ourselves and our valises to the camp of the 7th N.F. at

Ouderdom. It was not really a very long journey, I believe, but it

seemed so to us after our long and wearisome journey in the train.

To make matters worse the military police made us take a roundabout

road, and the driver lost his way. Of course a limber is not quite the

vehicle you would select for comfort, especially over roads that are

stony or pavé. The German flare lights could be clearly seen all the

way, and they seemed to be on three sides of us. A most brilliant and

interesting sight the first time you see it.

Eventually we reached the camp at Ouderdom. It was called 'Canada

Huts' and consisted of a cluster of wooden huts erected just off a

narrow muddy road. At one time I am told, the mud was thigh deep; but

now duck boards had been laid down, and though decidedly muddy the

camp was quite passable. When we arrived it was quite late, and we

found the camp in total darkness and every one asleep. But some of the

batmen (or officers' servants) were roused, and they not only showed

us a place to sleep in, but got us some tea and a scratch meal, very

welcome after our uncomfortable ride from the station. What wonderful

people these batmen are! Always so cheery and good to their officers.

Inside the huts we found wooden bunks in two tiers round three sides

and also a wooden table and forms in the middle. Not much room to move

about perhaps, but fairly dry and warm. After two sleepless nights in

the train we did not need rocking.

We found that we had arrived just in time to go with the battalion to

the front line trenches next day. For the battalion had just spent

three days in the rest area and was due to take over the line on the

fourth day. There was not much time, therefore, to get acquainted with

our fellow officers or to learn much about the platoons to which we

were assigned. Several of the officers we had known well at home in

the 3rd line battalion at Alnwick, and Major N.I. Wright and Capt. J.

Welch and Lieuts. J.W. Merivale and Fenwicke Clennell were old

friends. Also we had already met our new battalion commander

Lieut.-Col. G. Scott Jackson at Alnwick when he was last on leave. It

was nice to be greeted by friendly faces when our trials were so soon

to begin.

The last few hours before going back to the line are always rather

dreary and unprofitable, spent chiefly in packing up and deciding

what to leave behind. Valises of course were left behind with all

'spare parts' in the Q.M.'s stores. But in winter a fairly heavy load

of things was necessary, and the weather was wet and stormy. We had no

steel helmets in these days and no gas box-respirators, only two cloth

respirators of little weight. I found myself in charge of No. 4

Platoon in A Company, of which Capt. H.R. Smail was commander. There

were two other 2nd-Lieuts. in the company besides myself. The fighting

strength of a company did not much exceed 100 men, if as many.

Before we left Canada Huts, I was provided with a batman, coming of

course from A Company. And a good fellow he was and much I owe to him.

He has looked after me continuously from the day after I arrived until

he was demobilised on December 24, 1918--nearly three years. A miner

from Ashington, wounded at St. Julien in April 1915, he had rejoined

the battalion some months before in France. At a later stage I had to

rely much on his skill as a cook. A wonderfully cheerful person and a

smart and handy man at improvising little comforts for me. His name

was William Critchlow.

FOOTNOTES:

[2] Fortunately I never had occasion to use them.

V

HILL 60

When it was beginning to get dark the battalion formed up in the road

and the roll was called over. At last we set off slowly, squelching

through the mud on the wet roads, the rain pouring down unceasingly.

We soon struck the pavé road that runs through Dickebusch, a long

straggling village, still fairly intact and occupied by Belgian

civilians. It was shelled now and again but not severely. When we

reached this place, the battalion opened out considerably, platoons

keeping 200 yards apart; a precaution necessary on roads that were

periodically shelled at night. After plodding along for some time we

reached the Café Belge, a mere ruin now, but a well-known halting

place for troops on the march. Here we turned off to the right and

left the pavé road which runs on to Ypres, and after this the roads

were much more difficult to travel. Shell holes were frequent and

generally full of water, so that in the dark it was only too easy to

stumble into them. 'Shell-hole on the right,' 'Shell-hole on the

left,' 'Shell-hole in the middle,' 'Keep to your right' were being

passed back continually. Progress was slow of course under these

conditions and with the heavy loads that we all carried. But it was

all so novel to me that I had not a moment to feel dull or depressed.

After a time we reached the notorious 'Shrapnel Corner' and turned

towards 'Transport Farm,' for we were bound for trenches at Hill 60.

This place was of course famous for the British attack in 1915, and

for the German counter-attack with gas a little later on which was all

too successful. It was also notorious for being one of the hottest

corners of the British front. Owing to their vantage ground on the

hill the enemy had little difficulty in sniping and shelling our

trenches effectively.

[Illustration: Hill 60.--Official Map, March 1916.]

As we approached Transport Farm I came for the first time under

indirect rifle fire. A number of bullets fired at our trenches

carried over and landed not far from the roads at the back. Though

rather alarming in the dark to one unaccustomed to them, they seldom

did much damage. Occasionally a man or two got wounded during these

reliefs. Our company turned to the left again near Zillebeke railway

station, and then struck off the road and reached the mouth of a C.T.

which led after about a hundred yards to the support trenches.

A glance at the official plan of the trenches at Hill 60 will give

some idea of the extraordinary place it was. Whilst the German line

ran solid along the top of the ridge, there were two complete gaps in

the British fire trenches between Hill 60 and Mount Sorrel on the

left. On paper it looks as if there were nothing to stop the German

from walking across and behind our lines whenever he chose. But I

imagine that these empty spaces were covered by machine-gun posts, and

that the artillery were ready to deal with any attempt of that sort.

Another feature of the place was the awful nature of the ground

outside the trenches. It was a morass filled with partially buried

bodies--that is, partially buried by nature in the ooze and mud.

During a dense mist about seventy identity discs were recovered from

the ground behind our support lines. And it was worse in front between

the opposing trenches. It was not likely, then, that the German would

wish to press us farther down the hill, at any rate for tactical

purposes.

A Company had two platoons in the front line trench 41, some 100 yards

from the enemy, and two platoons in a support line called '41

support.' The trenches themselves were well-built and revetted with

sand bags, and dry enough even during the wettest weather. We had in

these days only small shelters--the deep dugout was unknown. The three

subalterns in A Company took turns at duty in the trenches, four hours

on and eight hours off, night and day. The duty consisted chiefly of

visiting the sentries every hour, and keeping a general look-out, and

seeing that the trench rules were obeyed. A good deal of rifle fire

went on at night. Sentries on either side would exchange shots, and an

occasional machine-gun would open out. At close range the bullets make

a curious crack as they pass overhead. Being tall and having been

warned of the efficiency of the German sniper, I had to walk in most

of the trenches with a bend in the back, which soon became tiring.

On Sunday, January 16, I had a decidedly lively time for my first day

in the trenches. It was always said that the Germans got a fresh

supply of ammunition at the week-end, and Sunday was scarcely ever a

day of rest. However that may be, this Sunday was the worst day I had

for some time. After sending over a few small howitzer shells, the

German field-guns sent periodical showers of shells, 'whizz-bangs' we

called them, on to the support trench and C.T.

This went on all morning, and whilst the shoot lasted they came over

in a perfect stream. After a quieter afternoon a regular trench battle

opened out at night, rifle grenades and bombs being freely exchanged,

and a number of trench-mortar bombs--'sausages and rum jars'--coming

over from the enemy's trenches. Eventually our heavy guns opened out

with lively retaliation and the enemy quietened down. Rather a big

dose to get the first day in the trenches, when everything was so

strange and new. However I was assured that it was not an 'average'

day even on Hill 60, but something like an organised shoot. One of the

features of the place was the number and size of the rats; they looked

the size of rabbits as they scuttered along the trenches at night.

Another was the awful taste of the water we got to drink. It was

boiled and it was turned into strong tea, but it had a most

indescribably horrible taste. The food, on the other hand, was

excellent and plenty of it. In the light of subsequent rations these

were indeed the days of plenty. Owing to the kindness of some friends

of the battalion in England, both officers and men were supplied with

sheep-skin coats or jackets which were wonderfully good in keeping out

the cold at night. 'Stand-to' was a regular institution of trench

warfare, both an hour before dark and an hour before dawn. Naturally

the latter was the more trying, but at this time the rum ration was

served out; and it certainly prevented you from being frozen stiff and

enabled you to get to sleep again if your duties did not keep you to

the trenches. A very curious life in the trenches, a very small world

but every bit of it packed full of interest and novelty to me. From

the trenches, if you looked backwards, there was a splendid view of

Ypres, with its shattered spires and houses, still a beautiful grey

ruin, even in death. I was destined to have a much closer acquaintance

with it later. Beyond the usual rounds of shelling on both sides

nothing of particular interest happened during the next three days. On

the evening of January 19 we were relieved by a company of the 5th

N.F. (Capt. North M.C.), and moved out after dark for a short rest in

close support.

My career as a platoon commander in the trenches was a short one, for

as it happened that was my first and last experience as such. We moved

out and back for about a mile, eventually reaching a house called

Blauwpoorte Farm.[3] It was not a bad place then, and was not shelled,

though at night the bullets used to rattle round if you walked abroad.

Here on the second day I took a small party of men, as a working

party, to the shelters at the 'Sunken Road,' rather nearer the line. I

think we were engaged in clearing the road of mud and generally

cleaning up. On the way there I saw some rather humourous notices

stuck up at various points. 'This is a dangerous spot.' It was kindly

meant no doubt, but on the whole no part of the Salient afforded much

of a rest-cure, and it was practically all under direct observation

of the enemy. We existed simply through his forbearance.

On January 22, 1916, I became bombing officer to the battalion, or, as

it was then called, 'grenadier officer.' My predecessor had had bad

luck, getting his hand shattered by the accidental explosion of a

detonator. Accordingly I was sent to see Sergt. W. Moffat, the

battalion bombing sergeant, in order to pick up what I could of the

routine at so short a notice. Sergt. Moffat was a short withered man

with sandy hair, a quiet manner, but a cheery twinkle in his eye. He

had served in the South African war; and had been mentioned in

despatches for good bombing work during a German attack at Hooge. A

most conscientious and hard-working fellow, with a passion for all

sorts of bombs. I could not have fallen into better hands. He was an

admirable instructor and assistant, and knew all there was to be known

about trench routine. I could see he was universally respected in the

battalion. He was a Salvation Army man at home, and wore their red

woollen jersey under his tunic. Much do I owe him and much do I still

lament his untimely end.

Capt. Smail returned to England about this time, leaving me his woolly

coat, a priceless parting gift. Capt. J. Welch came to command A

Company and a cheerier fellow surely never existed. I was glad to

accept his offer of messing with A Company. There never was a dull

moment at mess when Welch presided.

We went back to Hill 60 for four days on January 23. I cannot

remember much of this stay in the line, and nothing special happened.

I was too busy learning all I could of the routine of the trenches and

locating and checking bomb stores. I had to visit all the trenches

held by the battalion, and thus got the chance of making the

acquaintance of the other Company commanders, Capt. H. Liddell (B

Coy.), Capt. C. Davies (C Coy.) and Capt. G.F. Ball, M.C., (D Coy.). I

remember being asked by our Brigadier-General Clifford to explain some

part of a derelict West Spring Thrower in the cutting at Hill 60 (I

had never even seen one before) and being saved by the timely

intervention of Sergt. Moffat.

On January 27 we were relieved and went back to Canada Huts for a rest

of four days. Oh, that first rest out of the trenches! The

accommodation was poor enough seen in the light of home comforts, but

what a palace of rest and refreshment it seemed to me then, and how

quickly the time passed. I had to practise the bombers (nineteen from

each company) in throwing dummy grenades each morning on the mud flat

(it was once a field) outside the huts. In order to stimulate keenness

I organised a competition and gave one franc each day as a prize for

the best score. I soon found out who were the most expert throwers.

We had a Y.M.C.A. hut close to the camp, and it was interesting to

drop in and have a chat with the men in charge and a cup of cocoa.

There was an old gentleman there, in command, who was rightly proud

of being the civilian nearest to the front line. He displayed to us

with great pride a souvenir found in Ypres, the huge base of a 17-inch

shell--it was almost too heavy for one man to lift. We had our Church

Service and our concerts in the marquee attached to the Y.M.C.A. hut.

Most of the officers got leave to go to Poperinghe during these rests

out of the line, but I never went there myself. There was an

attraction there in the 'Fancies,' a fine concert party, many of whose

songs I learnt at second hand.

FOOTNOTES:

[3] Lieut. F.B. Cowen, a very cheery machine-gun officer, also 7th

N.F., had his quarters here.

VI

MOUNT SORREL AND CANNY HILL

When we went up the line again on January 31, it was to Mount Sorrel,

on the north of Hill 60. Here we had a good set of trenches, but they

were practically cut off from our trenches at Hill 60 by a swamp.

Through the swamp ran a watery sort of drain about four feet deep. It

was the old front line, now waterlogged and quite untenable. Although

the drain was not held by day, a patrol of bombers used to pass along

it at intervals during the night. And it was part of my duties to wade

through it every night. This was not a pleasant job, because you could

not show a light and the mud smelt abominably. We were provided,

however, with rubber boots reaching up to the thigh, so we did not get

very wet. The officers of A Company occupied an 'elephant' shelter

just behind the support line. All its occupants were killed by a shell

bursting in the doorway, just two days after we had left these

trenches. I first met Lieut. W. Keene here. He was the Brigade

Grenadier officer and had the supervision of all bombing arrangements

in the Brigade area, besides being responsible for the supply of

grenades. I always found him friendly and encouraging, and I was glad

to learn anything he could tell me. He asked me to send in a daily

report to B.H.Q.; and I have kept the copies of these reports to this

day.

During this stay in the trenches the Germans stuck up a notice board

with the following legend: _Attention Gentlemen_, and below in German,

'If you send over one more trench-mortar bomb you will get strafed in

the neck.'

On February 3 we were relieved and A Company stayed four days in the

railway cutting at Hill 60 in close support. The second day I went

with Capt. Welch and Lieut. Greene to the trenches north of Mount

Sorrel which were called Canny Hill. That journey was full of

incident, we seemed to be shelled or bombed all the way to Mount

Sorrel and back, and Capt. Welch has often humourously suggested that

I was the Jonah. It also meant crossing the dismal swamp in daylight,

and how we did it without being seen and shot I really do not know.

During our stay in the cutting I explored the old broken trenches

behind our support line at Hill 60, and found a fine dump of English

bombs of early types. I spent quite a long time drawing their teeth.

One little incident I remember at this spot. About 1 A.M. an elderly

R.E. officer came into our shelter, and told us in a voice shaking

with joyful emotion that he had just blown up a German counter-mine

which had been threatening our mine galleries at Hill 60.

On February 8 we marched back to Canada Huts, and had another four

days' rest. This time the bombers carried out a good deal of live

practice with Mills bombs at some bombing-pits about half a mile from

Canada Huts. It was my first experience of the sort; but Sergt. Moffat

kept me up to the procedure at the firing-pit. Also it was the first

time I had the chance of throwing a live Mills bomb myself. On

February 12 we were due to take over the trenches at Canny Hill, and I

went up early and by myself, riding to Café Belge and thence on foot

to Hill 60, Mount Sorrel, and so on to Sanctuary Wood. It was a long

way round but I knew no other way. My dugout was in the wood, rather

far from the front line and from the H.Q. of A Company in Davison

Street. Our front line trenches were about quarter of a mile away from

the German front line, but there were signs that the Germans were

digging a forward trench along a hedge about 200 yards away from our

front. This activity gave the Staff some uneasiness, and considerable

interest was taken in these forward workings. I went out with Capt.

Welch for a short visit in that direction the first night, but we saw

nothing of interest. The next night Capt. Welch brought back a

revetting stake from the new German trench. I believe it was on

February 13 that the Germans attacked and took the 'Bluff,' some

trenches south-west of Hill 60. About 3.30 P.M. our own trenches were

bombarded for about two hours continuously with field artillery, and a

lot of pieces were blown out of the top of our trenches, but no

infantry attack developed. After this a small mine was blown up under

our old trenches at Hill 60 and a platoon was wiped out there. But an

attempt by the Germans to occupy the crater was frustrated through the

initiative of a machine-gun officer. I saw and felt the shock of this

mine going up, and a wonderful sight it was in the evening light. The

shelling went on for some time after dark, whilst to our right our

artillery thundered away in support of several fruitless attempts to

recapture the lost trenches at the 'Bluff.'

On February 14 I was told to organise a series of bombing parties, one

from each company, to visit the German advanced trench at different

times during the night and if possible to bomb German parties working

there. I decided to accompany the first party, from A Company, between

8 and 10 P.M. Sergt. Dorgan, an experienced patroller, went with me,

also L.-C. Lowes, Ptes. Austin and Gibson, and two other bombers. As

it was very wet, I had a sandbag taken by each man to lie down on. The

scheme was to creep right up to the new trench near the hedge, and

await the arrival of the German working-party. So we crept out along

the wet ground and got to the trench, which was about two feet deep.

We found no one there, and Pte. Austin went on into the hedge to keep

a look-out. In the hedge were found a German sniper's plate, a steel

shield with a loop-hole in it, and a German entrenching tool, like a

small spade. These were at once annexed. Then we lay down again on

the sandbags and waited with eyes and ears straining for about an

hour. But no Germans came, though we had one warning from our sentry

to get ready to fire. After that, cold and thoroughly soaked, we

returned in triumph with the sandbags and our spoils, which we placed

in our own trench. The other parties went out later but found no

Germans at work. Possibly the wet night or the battle on our right

prevented them from coming out to work that night. The object of these

forward trenches was afterwards apparent, when four months later the

Germans attacked and took Mount Sorrel. On February 16 we were

relieved and went back into support for four days. I have forgotten

where we went, but I think it was to the Canal Dugouts not far from

Swan Château.

Q.6.a and Other places: Recollections of 1916, 1917 and 1918 · 第 1 / 12 段