LEVEL LANDING WREATH, OR HALF TWIST--_continued_.
Fig. 1 shows the same wreath after the inside and outside has been cut
off, so that a straightedge will touch both face moulds all round when
held in the direction of the section lines, as shown marked across the
inside.
To cut the wreath out get a machine gig-saw and either make a frame
for it or fit it into a bow-saw frame: this saw will be found to be
much better than the ordinary bow-saw, as it is much stiffer and will
not bend in the cut, and being thick on the teeth and thin on its back
edge, works free.
Every wreath shown in this book can be squared with this saw, and
if care is taken in cutting the superfluous stuff off, very little
cleaning up is required. The saw must always be held in the same
direction as the section lines. After the inside and outside has been
cut off and cleaned up, before taking the face moulds off mark down
from the top on each section, inside and out, the distances as shown
by the shaded parts on each section at Fig. 5, Plate XIV., and marked
F Y, R J, S K, &c. The shaded part at Fig. 1 shows this; the moulds can
now be removed and the superfluous stuff cut off to the lines traced
through E J K on the inside and Y A B on the outside. The bottom can be
gauged from the top with an ordinary gauge, but should be sawn full and
jointed to the straight rails before being cleaned up.
Fig. 2 shows the same wreath, only the rail is cut out of the top of
the plank all round, instead of the centre, as at Fig. 1. And this
wreath has a much better appearance on the inside when finished. The
face moulds and their application are the same, but as the rail is to
come out of the top of the plank, it will throw the level rail too high
on the landing. To obviate this the rising landing must be brought out
from the springing. Make A B, Fig. 3, equal A B, Fig. 4, draw section
of rail at H as shown, draw S S parallel to A H, make P P equal half
thickness of rail, make B A N, Fig. 4, equal B A N, Fig. 3, and draw
riser as shown.
[Illustration: PLATE 17.]