Fig. 1 is an enlarged plan of Fig. 1, Plate X. The face of risers must
be set off on the centre line of rail to suit the falling line of
handrail, which should be ascertained first. The line of travel is 15
inches from the centre line of rail, and the winders are divided on
this line.
Fig. 2 shows the development. Cut a piece of thin board to fit the face
of string around the zinc circle on plan, as shown by Fig. 3. Bend a
thin lath around it, and mark the springing on to it and all risers
between. Lay this lath on Fig. 2, and mark the springing and position
of risers, as shown. The position of risers outside of the springing
can of course be taken off the plan. Draw one or two full size steps
top and bottom, and a part of the straight strings as shown. Continue
the bottom edge of string to form a nice easy falling line connecting
the straight parts, as shown by the curved parts, Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 shows a cylinder made to fit the inside face of the circular
string. Before the veneer is put on, glue some paper all over the
outside of this cylinder and let it dry. Then, should any glue get
between the veneer and cylinder, it will pull the paper off instead
of sticking to the wood, and perhaps break the veneer; the paper can
be washed off. Bend the lath around the cylinder on top of the paper,
and mark the springing, as shown, on both sides. Do this at both ends,
and mark the springing down the sides with a straight-edge. Now get a
piece of veneer a full 1/16 inch thick, the size shown by the straight
dotted lines, Fig. 2. Cut the bottom edge to the curve S S. Mark the
springing and each step on the veneer. It is as well to mark these
on both sides. In putting this on the cylinder take care to have it
the right hand. Fix on one side first with a hand-screw, so that the
springing on the veneer is on the springing on the cylinder, then bend
it around and fasten the other side temporarily. Then get two pieces
of veneer, ⅛ inch thick and about 1 inch wide, cut to the shape of
the curves S S and N N. Now bend the two pieces around on the top
of the first piece, keeping the edge S S flush with the bottom edge
of the large veneer. It will be seen that the three thicknesses of
veneer will form the sinking in the string 5/16 inch deep. Next get
a piece the exact thickness of the sinking 5/16 inch, and cut it to
the shape of the sinking, as seen at Fig. 5. Put plenty of saw kerfs
in the direction shown, that is, parallel to the springing. Let the
kerfs go past the springing a bit on both ends. Now bend this around
the cylinder with the kerfs next to it, and the edge close up to the
veneers. Now get the staves about 2 inches by 2 inches, and bevel the
edges to fit each other around the circle and hollow the under side to
fit in the veneer, also cut the ends out to fit over the sinking. Start
one side first with straight pieces as far as the springing and screw
it down, then work from this piece and go right around, screwing each
piece as it is fitted, until they are all on. Next start in the centre
and take off one side, numbering each piece as it is taken off, lift
up each of the three pieces of veneer and glue between them, screw the
staves on again except the centre one, take them off on the other side
and glue in the same way, after which screw on all the staves again.
To glue the staves, again start in the centre and take off one, well
glue the bottom next to the veneer and screw it down tight. Take off
the next one to it and glue the bottom and side going against the one
already glued. Repeat this process until all are fixed, but never glue
more than one at a time. It may be found necessary to steam the veneer.
This is sometimes done in a box made for the purpose, where there is
steam to be had, but failing that, boiling in the glue-pot is used. But
this is not a good thing to do if it can be avoided, as the dryer it is
put on the better for the job.
Fig. 6 shows an enlarged section through the joint A B, Fig. 4. F is a
section of Fig. 5.
Fig. 7 shows the well in position. If a ⅝-inch bead is used for the
bottom edge, a piece of ⅝-inch cane can be bent around the well in
continuation of the bead. This work must be all fitted before it leaves
the bench, ready to go into its place when fixed.
_HANDRAILING._
The handrail is that portion of the fence carried up on the outside of
the stairs and supported by the balusters, which are let into the ends
of the treads. While these balusters form protection, the rail is to
assist in the ascent and descent of the stairs. It is very evident the
rail should be a uniform height over the line of nosings. This height
should be 2 feet 8 inches, measured vertically over the face of risers,
from the top side of tread to the top side of rail. And it will be seen
that the risers around the circular parts should be placed so as to
have the best possible falling line of rail, while the balusters should
be, if anything, a trifle longer than on the straight parts.
The method adopted in this work is as follows:--The plan of centre line
of rail is first laid down, and the tangents and face of risers drawn.
Next the centre line of rail is unfolded, or developed, on a board,
with position of risers thereon. Then the centre falling line of rail
is drawn, resting on the corners of the full-size steps and continued
across the well. And here it is where good taste and judgment is
required, so as to get a good falling. After the falling line has been
drawn it will be seen at once if any improvement can be made in the
position of the risers. The development of tangents is next drawn to
suit the falling line of rail.
The face moulds are next got out of some thin stuff. The tangents on
the moulds will equal the tangents developed in the elevation. This
will be better understood by referring to the succeeding drawings. Two
face moulds are used, one for each side of the plank. The tangents and
sections are the same on each mould, but as the width is on the inside
of one mould and on the outside of the other, this gives the wreath
the necessary twist. The wreath having been cut out square through the
plank and the joints made, and the tangents squared across the joints,
the face moulds are then tacked on, with the ends of both moulds flush
with the joints, and the tangents on both face moulds are put to the
tangents squared across the joints of wreath, there being no pushing
or sliding the mould in any shape or form. The inside and outside
is now sawn off, the saw always being held in the same direction as
the section lines on the face moulds. A bevel is obtained for each
section and set off on a board. The width of rail is also drawn on
the same board, and where the bevel cuts the centre of width of rail,
is the centre of plank. Now as the face mould gives the height of the
centre of plank at each section, these heights are transferred to the
elevation, which shows at once if the falling line is any, and how
much, out of the centre of plank. Then the sections of rail are drawn
on the board above, or below, where the bevel cuts the centre of width
of rail, according to what the falling line is out of the centre of
plank at each section. This shows what superfluous stuff there is to
come off the top side of the wreath at each section, which is marked
on to the wreath before the face moulds are removed. This superfluous
stuff is then sawn off, keeping the saw in the direction of the
section lines, after which the wreath is gauged to a thickness and the
superfluous stuff sawn off the bottom.
I may say that this system has been put to practical test, and some of
the very best examples of handrailing have been done by it with the
very best results. But it was found to be a great advantage to use a
machine gig-saw: they can be bought the same as any other saw, and if
it is fixed into a bow-saw frame, or a frame made for it, no difficulty
will be experienced in sawing out any wreath shown in this book.