SEPTEMBER 22ND. _Moscow, The Guest House._

Mrs. Kameneff went to her work as usual at 10 a.m. At breakfast half an

hour later Leo Borisvitch, as he is called, promised not to do any work

or keep any engagement until he had taken me to my new headquarters in

a

[Illustration: BIG BELL, KREMLIN.]

[Illustration: COLONNADES OF THE ALEXANDER MEMORIAL.

_p. 67._]

guest-house. We were delayed in starting by John Reed, the American

Communist, who came to see him on some business. He is a well-built

good-looking young man, who has given up everything at home to throw his

heart and life into work here. I understand the _Russian_ spirit, but

what strange force impels an apparently normal young man from the United

States? There also arrived to waylay us a painter called Rosenfeld, who

wore canvas shoes like a peasant, and kissed Kameneff on his arrival. He

offered to show me museums and things, but our only medium was German,

and his was a good deal worse than mine, which was a great drawback. At

midday, however, we broke free, and started off with my luggage. I bade

farewell to the Kremlin, and we drove across the river to a guest-house

on the opposite bank facing the Tsar’s Palace. The guest house is the

requisitioned house of a sugar king. It is inhabited by various Foreign

Office officials, also by Mr. Rothstein and an American financier, Mr.

W. B. Vanderlip. A beautiful bedroom and dressing-room are mine, with

walls of green damask. It looks more like a drawing-room than a bedroom.

The house is more or less exactly as the sugar king left it, full of a

mixture of good and bad things. It is partly modern Gothic and partly

German Louis XVI. The ceiling of one of the big rooms is painted by

Flameng, but the best pictures (there were some Corots) have been taken

to a museum. One is extremely grateful for its comfort and hospitality,

even if its taste in decoration is not of the best.

Moreover, one can enjoy it lightheartedly, for the exiled sugar king, it

is rumoured, had other palaces abroad, and never came to Moscow except

for a few weeks in the year. He also has money invested abroad and is

not in want, and can well spare his Moscow palace for so good a purpose.

His old manservant waits upon us, and takes the tenderest care of the

house in the belief that the old régime will return, bringing the owners

of the house with it. He says openly that he is not a Bolshevik, and

takes much pride in changing our plates a great many times, and making

the most of our humble fare. He insists that so far as it depends upon

him we shall behave like perfect ladies and gentlemen and be treated as

such.

I stayed at home all day unpacking at last, and settling down into my

temporary home. Kameneff promised to come back in the course of the day,

but he didn’t. He telephoned however, and arranged that I should be

taken to the Ballet with the party from this house. We sat in the

Foreign Office box. The ballet was “Coppelia,” beautifully produced, and

the orchestra one of the finest that I ever heard. The theatre is the

size of Covent Garden, and is decorated with crimson and gold. There are

boxes all round the first tier, and the house was packed throughout.

The audience consisted of working people, who had admission free through

the distribution of tickets to certain unions. They were a motley crowd,

chiefly _en blouse_. In the Royal box, reserved for Commissars and their

wives, there was a man with a cloth cap. The women were eating apples.

In the box next to ours there was an old woman with a shawl over her

head.

It was intensely moving to see the absorbed attention of the audience.

People leaned their elbows on the ledges of the boxes and watched the

ballet with an almost devouring interest. There was not a cough nor a

whisper. Only when Coppelia came to life as the mechanical doll, there

were delicious low ripples of controlled laughter from the children. At

the ends of the acts people left the stalls to rush, not for the exits

to the foyer, but to the front of the gangways nearest the stage to see

the dancers close to, and to applaud them. The people were tired people,

who had worked all day and had earned a good evening and were enjoying

it to the full.

My only contretemps was with a little stenographer from the Foreign

Office who was in our box. She observed that I had on the red enamelled

star of Communism, and that I wore white gloves. One, she said,

contradicted the other; the white gloves were bourgeois. I argued that

it only mattered what was in my heart, and not what was on my hands. But

she would not be pacified, so I removed the gloves. Considering that my

costume was a red tweed skirt with a red, wool jersey and a

tight-fitting cap, I had thought that gloves would not make me

over-dressed.

If my evening’s pleasure was neutralised by the concentrated aroma which

arose from the great unwashed, it is only fair to observe that there is

no soap in the country, and most people have, for two years or so, only

had the one suit of clothes in which they stand up. No wonder----! In

the car coming home I met Mr. Rothstein, who is living in the same

house. I wished I could recall the abusive article which I read about

him in an English newspaper, but all I remember is that he is not to be

readmitted to England. He seems to be an energetic and forceful little

man. I expect he is pretty clever. We had supper together after the

theatre, and conversation

[Illustration: SERGE TROTSKY AND ALEXANDRE KAMENEFF.

_p. 67._]

drifted on to that eternal comedy, the Nationalisation of women. I

happened to say that this had done more to harm the Bolshevik cause than

almost anything, and, moreover, that quite serious people still believed

it. Mr. Rothstein interposed rather sharply, “Well, a little select

circle which reads the _Morning Post_ perhaps believes it.”

Is it possible, I wonder that he is right, and that the “little select

circle” do not count as much as I have all my life taken for granted

that they did?

Russian Portraits · 第 67 / 119 题