JULY, 1793.
At eleven in the morning we left this place, which I called Friendly
Village, accompanied by every man belonging to it, who attended us about
a mile, when we took a cordial leave of them; and if we might judge from
appearances, they parted from us with regret.
In a short time we halted to make a division of our fish, and each man
had about twenty pounds weight of it, except Mr. Mackay and myself, who
were content with shorter allowance, that we might have less weight to
carry. We had also a little flour, and some pemmican. Having completed
this arrangement with all possible expedition, we proceeded onwards, the
ground rising gradually, as we continued our route. When we were clear
of the wood, we saw the mountain towering above, and apparently of
impracticable ascent. We soon came to the fork of the river, which was
at the foot of the precipice, where the ford was three feet deep, and
very rapid. Our young Indian, though much recovered, was still too weak
to cross the water, and with some difficulty I carried him over on my
back.
It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to ascend the summit of the
first mountain before night came on, in order to look for water. I left
the sick Indian, with his companion and one of my men, to follow us, as
his strength would permit him. The fatigue of ascending these
precipices I shall not attempt to describe, and it was past five when we
arrived at a spot where we could get water, and in such an extremity of
weariness, that it was with great pain any of us could crawl about to
gather wood for the necessary purpose of making a fire. To relieve our
anxiety, which began to increase every moment for the situation of the
Indian, about seven he and his companions arrived; when we consoled
ourselves by sitting round a blazing fire, talking of past dangers, and
indulging the delightful reflection that we were thus far advanced on
our homeward journey. Nor was it possible to be in this situation
without contemplating the wonders of it. Such was the depth of the
precipices below, and the height of the mountains above, with the rude
and wild magnificence of the scenery around, that I shall not attempt to
describe such an astonishing and awful combination of objects; of which,
indeed, no description can convey an adequate idea. Even at this place,
which is only, as it were, the first step towards gaining the summit of
the mountains, the climate was very sensibly changed. The air that
fanned the village which we left at noon, was mild and cheering; the
grass was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe around it. But here the
snow was not yet dissolved, the ground was still bound by the frost, the
herbage had scarce begun to spring, and the crowberry bushes were just
beginning to blossom.
_Saturday, 27._--So great was our fatigue of yesterday, that it was
late before we proceeded to return over the mountains, by the same route
which we had followed in our outward journey. There was little or no
change in the appearance of the mountains since we passed them, though
the weather was very fine.
_Sunday, 28._--At nine this morning we arrived at the spot, where we
slept with the natives on the 16th instant, and found our pemmican in
good condition where we had buried it.
The latitude of this place, by observation, when I passed, I found to be
52. 46. 32. I now took time, and the distance between sun and moon. I
had also an azimuth, to ascertain the variation.
We continued our route with fine weather, and without meeting a single
person on our way, the natives being all gone, as we supposed, to the
Great River. We recovered all our hidden stores of provisions, and
arrived about two in the afternoon of Sunday, August the 4th, at the
place which we had left a month before.
A considerable number of Indians were encamped on the opposite side of
the small river, and in consequence of the weather, confined to their
lodges: as they must have heard of, if not seen us, and our arms being
out of order from the rain, I was not satisfied with our situation; but
did not wish to create an alarm. We, therefore, kept in the edge of the
wood, and called to them, when they turned out like so many furies, with
their arms in their hands, and threatening destruction if we dared to
approach their habitations. We remained in our station till their
passion and apprehensions had subsided, when our interpreter gave them
the necessary information respecting us. They proved to be strangers to
us, but were the relations of those whom we had already seen here, and
who, as they told us, were upon an island at some distance up the river.
A messenger was accordingly sent to inform them of our arrival.
_Monday, 5._--On examining the canoe, and our property, which we had
left behind, we found it in perfect safety, nor was there the print of a
foot near the spot. We now pitched our tent, and made a blazing fire,
and I treated myself, as well as the people, with a dram; but we had
been so long without tasting any spirituous liquor, that we had lost all
relish for it. The Indians now arrived from above, and were rewarded
for the care they had taken of our property with such articles as were
acceptable to them.
At nine this morning I sent five men in the canoe, for the various
articles we had left below, and they soon returned with them, and except
some bale goods, which had got wet, they were in good order,
particularly the provisions, of which we were now in great need.
Many of the natives arrived both from the upper and lower parts of the
river, each of whom was dressed in a beaver robe. I purchased fifteen
of them; and they preferred large knives in exchange. It is an
extraordinary circumstance, that these people, who might have taken all
the property we left behind us, without the least fear of detection,
should leave that untouched, and purloin any of our utensils, which our
confidence in their honesty gave them a ready opportunity of taking. In
fact, several articles were missing, and as I was very anxious to avoid
a quarrel with the natives, in this stage of our journey, I told those
who remained near us, without any appearance of anger, that their
relations who were gone, had no idea of the mischief that would result
to them from taking our property. I gravely added, that the salmon,
which was not only their favourite food, but absolutely necessary to
their existence, came from the see which belonged to us white men; and
that as, at the entrance of the river, we could prevent those fish from
coming up it, we possessed the power to starve them and their children.
To avert our anger, therefore, they must return all the articles that
had been stolen from us. This finesse succeeded. Messengers were
dispatched to order the restoration of everything that had been taken.
We purchased several large salmon of them and enjoyed the delicious meal
which they afforded.
At noon this day, which I allotted for repose, I got a meridian
altitude, which gave 53. 24. 10. I also took time. The weather had been
cloudy at intervals.
Every necessary preparation had been made yesterday for us to continue
our route to-day; but before our departure, some of the natives arrived
with part of the stolen articles; the rest, they said, had been taken by
people down the river, who would be here in the course of the morning,
and recommended their children to our commiseration, and themselves to
our forgiveness.
The morning was cloudy, with small rain, nevertheless I ordered the men
to load the canoe, and we proceeded in high spirits on finding ourselves
once more so comfortably together in it. We landed at a house on the
first island, where we procured a few salmon, and four fine beaver
skins. There had been much more rain in these parts than in the country
above, as the water was pouring down the hills in torrents. The river
consequently rose with great rapidity, and very much impeded our
progress.
The people on this river are generally of the middle size, though I saw
many tall men among them. In the cleanliness of their persons they
resemble rather the Beaver Indians than the Chepewyans. They are
ignorant of the use of fire arms, and their only weapons are bows and
arrows, and spears. They catch the larger animals in snares, but though
their country abounds in them, and the rivers and lakes produce plenty
of fish, they find a difficulty in supporting themselves, and are never
to be seen but in small bands of two or three families. There is no
regular government among them; nor do they appear to have a sufficient
communication or understanding with each other, to defend themselves
against an invading enemy, to whom they fall an easy prey. They have
all the animals common on the West side of the mountains, except the
buffalo and the wolf; at least we saw none of the latter, and there
being none of the former, it is evident that their progress is from the
South-East. The same language is spoken, with very little exception
from the extent of my travels down this river, and in a direct line from
the North-East head of it in the latitude 53. or 54. to Hudson's Bay;
so that a Chepewyan, from which tribe they have all sprung, might leave
Churchill River, and proceeding in every direction to the North-West of
this line without knowing any language except his own, would understand
them all: I except the natives of the sea coast, who are altogether a
different people. As to the people to the Eastward of this river, I am
not qualified to speak of them.
At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, so that we were obliged to land
in order to repair the injury she had received; and as the rain came on
with great violence, we remained here for the night. The salmon were
now driving up the current in such large shoals, that the water seemed,
as it were, to be covered with the fins of them.
_Wednesday, 7._--About nine this morning the weather cleared, and we
embarked. The shoals of salmon continued as yesterday. There were
frequent showers throughout the day, and every brook was deluged into a
river. The water had risen at least one foot and an half perpendicular
in the last twenty-four hours. In the dusk of the evening we landed for
the night.
_Thursday, 8._--The water continued rising during the night; so that
we were disturbed twice in the course of it, to remove our baggage. At
six in the morning we were on our way, and proceeded with continual and
laborious exertion, from the increased rapidity of the current. After
having passed the two carrying places of Rocky Point, and the Long
Portage, we encamped for the night.
_Friday, 9._--We set off at five, after a rainy night and in a foggy
morning. The water still retained its height. The sun, however, soon
beamed upon us; and our clothes and baggage were in such a state that we
landed to dry them. After some time we re-embarked and arrived at our
first encampment on this river about seven in the evening. The water
fell considerably in the course of the day.
_Saturday, 10._--The weather was cloudy with slight showers, and at
five this morning we embarked, the water falling as fast as it had
risen. This circumstance arises from the mountainous state of the
country on either side of the river, from whence the water rushes down
almost as fast as it falls from the heavens, with the addition of the
snow it melts in its way. At eight in the evening we stopped for the
night.
_Sunday, 11._--At five this morning we proceeded with clear weather.
At ten we came to the foot of the long rapid, which we ascended with
poles much easier than we expected. The rapids that were so strong and
violent in our passage downwards, were now so reduced, that we could
hardly believe them to be the same. At sunset we landed and encamped.
_Monday, 12._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and we were on
the water at a very early hour. At nine we came to a part of the river
where there was little or no current. At noon we landed to gum the
canoe, when I took a meridian altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North
latitude. We continued our route nearly East, and at three in the
afternoon approached the fork, when I took time, and the distance
between the sun and moon. At four in the afternoon we left the main
branch. The current was quite slack, as the water had fallen six feet,
which must have been in the course of three days. At sunset we landed
and took our station for the night.
_Tuesday, 13._--There was a very heavy rain in the night, and the
morning was cloudy; we renewed our voyage, however, at a very early
hour, and came to the narrow gut between the mountains of rock, which
was a passage of some risk; but fortunately the state of the water was
such, that we got up without any difficulty, and had more time to
examine these extraordinary rocks than in our outward passage. They are
as perpendicular as a wall, and give the idea of a succession of
enormous Gothic churches. We were now closely hemmed in by the
mountains, which had lost much oh their snow since our former passage by
them. We encamped at a late hour, cold, wet, and hungry: for such was
the state of our provisions, that our necessary allowance did not answer
to the active cravings of our appetites.
_Wednesday, 14._--The weather was cold and raw, with small rain, but
our necessities would not suffer us to wait for a favourable change of
it, and at half past five we arrived at the swampy carrying-place,
between this branch and the small river. At three in the afternoon the
cold was extreme, and the men could not keep themselves warm even by
their violent exertions which our situation required; and I now gave
them the remainder of our rum to fortify and support them. The canoe
was so heavy that the lives of two of them were endangered in this
horrible carrying-place. At the same time it must be observed, that
from the fatiguing circumstances of our journey, and the inadequate
state of our provisions, the natural strength of the men had been
greatly diminished. We encamped on the banks of the bad river.
_Thursday, 15._--The weather was now clear, and the sun shone upon us.
The water was much lower than in the downward passage, but was cold as
ice, and, unfortunately, the men were obliged to be continually in it to
drag on the canoe. There were many embarras, through which a passage
might have been made, but we were under the necessity of carrying both
the canoe and baggage.
About sun-set we arrived at our encampment of the 13th of June, where
some of us had nearly taken our eternal voyage. The legs and feet of
the men were so benumbed, that I was very apprehensive of the
consequence. The water being low, we made a search for our bag of ball,
but without success. The river was full of salmon, and another fish
like the black bass.
_Friday, 16._--The weather continued to be the same as yesterday, and
at two in the afternoon we came to the carrying-place which leads to the
first small lake; but it was so filled with drift wood, that a
considerable portion of time was employed in making our way through it.
We now reached the high land which separates the source of the Tacoutche
Tesse, or Columbia River, and Unjigah, or Peace River: the latter of
which, after receiving many tributary streams, passes through the great
Slave Lake, and disembogues itself in the Frozen Ocean, in latitude
69. 30. North, longitude 135 West from Greenwich; while the former,
confined by the immense mountains that run nearly parallel with the
Pacific Ocean, and keep it in a Southern course, empties itself in
46. 20. North latitude and longitude 124 West from Greenwich.
If I could have spared the time, and had been able to exert myself, for
I was now afflicted with a swelling in my ancles, so that I could not
even walk, but with great pain and difficulty, it was my intention to
have taken some salmon alive, and colonised them in the Peace River,
though it is very doubtful whether that fish would live in waters that
have not a communication with the sea.
Some of the inhabitants had been here since we passed; and I apprehend,
that on seeing our road through their country, they mistook us for
enemies, and had therefore deserted the place, which is a most
convenient station; as on one side, there is a great plenty of white
fish, and trout, jub, carp, &c., and on the other abundance of salmon,
and probably other fish. Several things that I had left here in
exchange for articles of which I had possessed myself, as objects of
curiosity, were taken away. The hurtle-berries were now ripe, and very
fine of their kind.
_Saturday, 17._--The morning was cloudy, and at five we renewed our
progress. We were compelled to carry from the lake to the Peace River,
the passage, from the falling of the water, being wholly obstructed by
drift wood. The meadow through which we passed was entirely inundated;
and from the state of my foot and ancle, I was obliged, though with
great reluctance, to submit to be carried over it.
At half past seven we began to glide along with the current of the Peace
River; and almost at every canoe's length we perceived Beaver roads to
and from the river. At two in the afternoon, an object attracted our
notice at the entrance of a small river, which proved to be the four
beaver skins, already mentioned to have been presented to me by a
native, and left in his possession to receive them on my return. I
imagined, therefore, that being under the necessity of leaving the
river, or, perhaps, fearing to meet us again, he had taken this method
to restore them to me; and to reward his honesty, I left three times the
value of the skins in their place. The snow appeared in patches on the
mountains. At four in the afternoon we passed the place where we.
found the first natives, and landed for the night at a late hour. In
the course of the day, we caught nine outards, or Canada geese, but they
were as yet without their feathers.
_Sunday, 18._--As soon as it was light we proceeded on our voyage, and
drove on before the current, which was very much diminished in its
strength, since we came up it. The water indeed, was so low, that in
many parts it exposed a gravelly beach. At eleven we landed at our
encampment of the seventh of June, to gum the canoe and dry our clothes:
we then re-embarked, and at half past five arrived at the place, where I
lost my book of memorandums, on the fourth of June, in which were
certain courses and distances between that day end the twenty-sixth of
May, which I had now an opportunity to supply. They were as follows:
North-North-West half a mile, East by North half a mile, North by East a
quarter of a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile,
West-South-West half a mile, North-West a mile and a quarter,
North-North-West three quarters of a mile, North by East half a mile,
North-West three quarters of a mile, West half a mile, North-West three
quarters of a mile, West-North-West one mile and a quarter, North three
quarters of a mile, West by North one quarter of a mile, North-West one
mile and an half, West-North-West half a mile, North-North-West three
quarters of a mile, West one quarter of a mile, North-North-East half a
mile, North-North-West two miles, and North-West four miles.
We were seven days in going up that part of the river which we came down
to-day; and it now swarmed, as it were, with beavers and wild fowl.
There was rain in the afternoon, and about sunset we took our station
for the night.
_Monday, 19._--We had some small rain throughout the night. Our
course to-day was South-South-West three quarters of a mile,
West-North-West half a mile, North half a mile, North-West by West three
quarters of a mile, North by West half a mile; a small river to the
left, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West-North-West a
mile and an half, North-West by North four miles, a rivulet on the
right, West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a considerable river
from the left, North-North-West two miles, North half a mile,
West-North-West one mile and a half; a rivulet on the right, North-West
by West one mile and a quarter, West-North-West one mile,
West-South-West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West half a mile,
North-West half a mile, West-South-West three quarters of a mile,
North-West by West three miles, West-South-West three quarters of a
mile, North-West by West one mile; a small river on the right,
South-West a quarter of a mile, West-North-West, islands, four miles and
a half, a river on the left, North half a mile, West a quarter of a
mile, North a quarter of a mile, North-West by West three quarters of a
mile, North-North-East three quarters of a mile, North-West by North
half a mile, West-North-West a mile and an half, and North-West by North
half a mile. The mountains were covered with fresh snow, whose showers
had dissolved in rain before they reached us. North-West three quarters
of a mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, North a mile and three
quarters, West-North-West a mile and a quarter, North-West a mile and a
half, North-North-West half a mile, West-North-West a quarter of a mile,
North half a mile; here the current was sleek: North-West by North half
a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West a
quarter of a mile, North-West by West one mile and a quarter, North half
a mile, North-East by North one mile and three quarters, South-West one
mile and a quarter, with an island, North by East one mile, North-West.
Here the other branch opened to us, at the distance of three quarters of
a mile.
I expected from the slackness of the current in this branch, that
the Western one would be high, but I found it equally low. I had every
reason to believe that from the upper part of this branch, the distance
could not be great to the country through which I passed when I left the
Great River; but it has since been determined otherwise by Mr. J. Finlay,
who was sent to explore it, and found its navigation soon terminated by
falls and rapids.
The branches are about two hundred yards in breadth, and the water was
six feet lower than on our upward passage. Our course, after the
junction, was North-North-West one mile, the rapid North-East down it
three quarters of a mile, North by West one mile and a quarter, North by
East one mile and an half, East by South one mile, North-East two miles
and an half, East-North-East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet; East by
South one mile and an half, North-East two miles, East-North-East one
mile, North-North-East a quarter of a mile, North-East by East-half a
mile, East-South-East a quarter of a mile, East-North-East half a mile,
North-East two miles, North-East by East two miles and a quarter,
South-East by East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet from the left; East by
North a mile and an half, East by South one mile, East-North-East one
mile and three quarters; a river on the right; North-North-East three
quarters of a mile, North-East a mile and a half, North-East by East a
mile and a quarter, East-North-East half a mile, and North-East by North
half a mile. Here we landed at our encampment of the 27th of June, from
whence I dispatched a letter in an empty keg, as was mentioned in that
period of my journal, which set forth our existing state, progress, and
expectation.
_Tuesday, 20._--Though the weather was clear, we could not embark this
morning before five, as there was a rapid very near us, which required
daylight to run it, that we might not break our canoe on the rocks. The
baggage we were obliged to carry. Our course was North by East a mile
and an half, North-North-East a mile and a half down another rapid on
the West side; it requires great care to keep directly between the eddy
current, and that which was driving down with so much impetuosity. We
then proceeded North-North-West, a river from the right; a mile and a
quarter, North-North-East a mile and a half, a river from the left;
North one mile and three quarters, North-East two miles, North-East by
East two miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, North-East by East
four miles, a river from the left, and East by South a mile and a half.
Here was our encampment on the 26th of May, beyond which it would be
altogether superfluous for me to take the courses, as they are inserted
in their proper places.
As we continued our voyage, our attention was attracted by the
appearance of an Indian encampment. We accordingly landed, and found
there had been five fires, and within that number of days, so that there
must have been some inhabitants in the neighbourhood, though we were not
so fortunate as to see them. It appeared that they had killed a number
of animals, and fled in a state of alarm, as three of their canoes were
left carelessly on the beach, and their paddles laying about in
disorder. We soon after came to the carrying-place called the Portage
de la Montagne de Roche. Here I had a meridian altitude, which made the
latitude 56. 3. 51. North.
The water, as I have already observed, was much lower than when we came
up it, though at the same time the current appeared to be stronger from
this place to the forks; the navigation, however, would now be attended
with greater facility, as there is a stony beach all the way, so that
poles, or the towing-line, may be employed with the best effect, where
the current overpowers the use of paddles.
We were now reduced to a very short allowance; the disappointment,
therefore, at not seeing any animals was proportioned to our exigencies,
as we did not possess at this time more than was sufficient to serve us
for two meals. I now dispatched Mr. Mackay and the Indians to proceed
to the foot of the rapids, and endeavour in their way to procure some
provisions, while I prepared to employ the utmost expedition in getting
there; having determined, notwithstanding the disinclination of my
people, from the recollection of what they had suffered in coming that
way, to return by the same route. I had observed, indeed, that the
water which had fallen fifteen feet perpendicular, at the narrow pass
below us, had lost much of its former turbulence.
As dispatch was essential in procuring a supply of provisions, we did
not delay a moment in making preparation to renew our progress. Five of
the men began to carry the baggage, while the sixth and myself took the
canoe asunder, to cleanse her of the dirt, and expose her lining and
timbers to the air, which would render her much lighter. About sun-set
Mr. Mackay and our hunters returned with heavy burdens of the flesh of a
buffalo: though not very tender, it was very acceptable, and was the
only animal that they had seen, though the country was covered with
tracks of them, as well as of the moose-deer and the elk. The former
had done rutting, and the latter were beginning to run. Our people
returned, having left their loads mid-way on the carrying-place. My
companion and myself completed our undertaking, and the canoe was ready
to be carried in the morning. A hearty meal concluded the day, and
every fear of future want was removed.
_Wednesday, 21._--When the morning dawned we set forwards, but as a
fire had passed through the portage, it was with difficulty we could
trace our road in many parts; and with all the exertion of which we were
capable, we did not arrive at the river till four in the afternoon. We
found almost as much difficulty in carrying our canoe down the mountain
as we had in getting it up; the men being not so strong as on the former
occasion, though they were in better spirits; and I was now enabled to
assist them, my ancle being almost well. We could not, however, proceed
any further till the following day, as we had the canoe to gum, with
several great and small poles to prepare; those we had left here having
been carried away by the water, though we had left them in a position
from fifteen to twenty feet above the water-mark, at that time. These
occupations employed us till a very late hour.
_Thursday, 22._--The night was cold, and though the morning was fine
and clear, it was seven before we were in a state of preparation to
leave this place, sometimes driving with the current, and at other times
shooting the rapids. The latter had lost much of their former strength;
but we, nevertheless, thought it necessary to land very frequently, in
order to examine the rapids before we could venture to run them.
However, the canoe being light, we very fortunately passed them all, and
at noon arrived at the place where I appointed to meet Mr. Mackay and
the hunters: there we found them, with plenty of excellent fat meat,
ready roasted, as they had killed two elks within a few hundred yards of
the spot where we then were. When the men had satisfied their
appetites, I sent them for as much of the meat as they could carry. In
coming hither, Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the hunters kept
along the high land, and did not see or cross the Indian path. At the
same time, there can be no doubt but the road from this place to the
upper part of the rapids is to be preferred to that which we came, both
for expedition and safety.
After staying here about an hour and a half, we proceeded with the
stream, and landed where I had forgotten my pipe-tomahawk and seal, on
the eighteenth of May. The former of them I now recovered. On leaving
the mountains we saw animals grazing in every direction. In passing
along an island, we fired at an elk, and broke its leg; and as it was
now time to encamp, we landed; when the hunters pursued the wounded
animal, which had crossed over to the main land, but could not get up
the bank. We went after it, therefore, in the canoe, and killed it. To
give some notion of our appetites, I shall state the elk, or at least
the carcase of it, which we brought away, to have weighed two hundred
and fifty pounds; and as we had taken a very hearty meal at one o'clock,
it might naturally be supposed that we should not be very voracious at
supper; nevertheless, a kettle full of the elk flesh was boiled and
eaten, and that vessel replenished and put on the fire. All that
remained, with the bones, &c. was placed, after the Indian fashion,
round the fire to roast, and at ten next morning the whole was consumed
by ten persons and a large dog, who was allowed his share of the
banquet. This is no exaggeration; nor did any inconvenience result from
what may be considered as an inordinate indulgence.
_Friday, 23._--We were on the water before daylight; and when the sun
rose, a beautiful country appeared around us, enriched and animated by
large herds of wild cattle. The weather was now so warm, that to us,
who had not of late been accustomed to heat, it was overwhelming and
oppressive. In the course of this day we killed a buffalo and a bear;
but we were now in the midst of abundance, and they were not
sufficiently fat to satisfy our fastidious appetites, so we left them
where they fell. We landed for the night, and prepared ourselves for
arriving at the Fort on the following day.
_Saturday, 24._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and the
country increasing in beauty; though as we approached the Fort, the
cattle appeared proportionably to diminish. We now landed at two lodges
of Indians, who were as astonished to see us, as if we had been the
first white men whom they had ever beheld. When we had passed these
people, not an animal was to be seen on the borders of the river.
At length, as we rounded a point, and came in view of the Fort, we threw
out a flag, and accompanied it with a general discharge of our
fire-arms; while the men were in such spirits, and made such an active
use of their paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we left
here in the spring, could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we
landed at four in the afternoon, at the place which we left on the ninth
of May.
Here my voyages of discovery terminate.
Their toils and their dangers, their solicitudes and sufferings, have
not been exaggerated in my description. On the contrary, in many
instances, language has failed me in the attempt to describe them. I
received, however, the reward of my labours, for they were crowned with
success.
As I have now resumed the character of a trader I shall not trouble my
readers with any subsequent concern, but content myself with the closing
infomation, that after an absence of eleven months, I arrived at Fort
Chepewyan, where I remained, for the purposes of trade, during the
succeeding winter.
----
The following general, but short, geographical view of the country may
not be improper to close this work, as well as some remarks on the
probable advantages that may be derived from advancing the trade of it,
under proper regulations, and by the spirit of commercial enterprize.
By supposing a line from the Atlantic, East, to the Pacific, West, in
the parallel of forty-five degrees of North latitude, it will, I think,
nearly describe the British territories in North America. For I am of
opinion, that the extent of the country to the South of this line, which
we have a right to claim, is equal to that to the North of it, which may
be claimed by other powers.
The outline of what I shall call the first division, is along that track
of country which runs from the head of James-Bay, in about latitude
51. North, along the Eastern coast, as far North as to, and through
Hudson's Straits, round by Labrador; continuing on the Atlantic coast,
on the outside of the great islands, in the gulf of St. Laurence, to the
river St. Croix, by which it takes its course, to the height of land
that divides the waters emptying themselves into the Atlantic, from
those discharged into the river St. Laurence. Then following these
heights, as the boundary between the British possessions, and those of
the American States, it makes an angle Westerly until it strikes the
discharge of Lake Champlain, in latitude 45. North, when it keeps a
direct West line till it strikes the river St. Laurence, above Lake
St. Francis, where it divides the Indian village St. Rigest; from whence
it follows the centre of the waters of the great river St. Laurence: it
then proceeds through Lake Ontario, the connection between it and Lake
Erie; through the latter, and its chain of connection, by the river
Detroit, as far South as latitude 42. North, and then through the lake
and river St. Clair, as also lake Huron, through which it continues to
the strait of St. Mary, latitude 46. 30. North; from which we will
suppose the line to strike to the East of North, to the head of James
Bay, in the latitude already mentioned.
Of this great tract, more than half is represented as barren and broken,
displaying a surface of rock and fresh water lakes, with a very
scattered and scanty proportion of soil. Such is the whole coast of
Labrador, and the land, called East Main to the West of the heights,
which divide the waters running into the river and gulf of St. Laurence,
from those flowing into Hudson's Bay. It is consequently inhabited only
by a few savages, whose numbers are proportioned to the scantiness of
the soil; nor is it probable, from the same cause, that they will
encrease. The fresh and salt waters, with a small quantity of game,
which the few, stinted woods afford, supply the wants of nature; from
whence, to that of the line of the American boundary, and the Atlantic
Ocean, the soil, wherever cultivation has been attempted, has yielded
abundance; particularly on the river St. Laurence, from Quebec upwards,
to the line of boundary already mentioned; but a very inconsiderable
proportion of it has been broken by the plough-share.
The line of the second division may be traced from that of the first at
St. Mary's, from which also the line of American boundary runs, and is
said to continue through Lake Superior (and through a lake called the
Long Lake which has no existence), to the Lake of the Woods, in latitude
49. 37. North, from whence it is also said to run West to the
Mississippi, which it may do, by giving it a good deal of Southing, but
not otherwise; as the source of that river does not extend further North
than latitude 47. 38. North, where it is no more than a small brook;
consequently, if Great Britain retains the right of entering it along
the line of division, it must be in a lower latitude, and wherever that
may be, the line must be continued West, till it terminates in the
Pacific Ocean, to the South of the Columbia. This division is then
bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the West, the Frozen Sea and Hudson's
Bay on the North and East. The Russians, indeed, may claim with
justice, the islands and coast from Behring's Straits to Cook's Entry.
The whole of this country will long continue in the possession of its
present inhabitants, as they will remain contented with the produce of
the woods and waters for their support, leaving the earth, from various
causes, in its virgin state. The proportion of it that is fit for
cultivation, is very small and is still less in the interior parts; it
is also very difficult of access; and whilst any land remains
uncultivated to the South of it, there will be no temptation to settle
it. Besides, its climate is not in general sufficiently genial to bring
the fruits of the earth to maturity. It will also be an asylum for the
descendants of the original inhabitants of the country to the South, who
prefer the modes of life of their forefathers, to the improvements of
civilization. Of this disposition there is a recent instance. A small
colony of Iroquois emigrated to the banks of the Saskatchiwine, in 1799,
who had been brought up from their infancy under the Romish
missionaries, and instructed by them at a village within nine miles of
Montreal.
A further division of this country is marked by a ridge of high land,
rising, as it were, from the coast of Labrador, and running nearly
South-West to the source of the Utawas River, dividing the waters going
either way to the river and gulf of St. Laurence and Hudson's Bay, as
before observed. From thence it stretches to the North of West, to the
Northward of Lake Superior, to latitude 50. North, and longitude
98. West, when it forks from the last course at about South-West, and
continues the same division of waters until it passes North of the
source of the Mississippi. The former course runs, as has been
observed, in a North-West direction, until it strikes the river Nelson,
separating the waters that discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, which
forms part of the said river, and those that also empty themselves into
Hudson's Bay, by the Albany, Severn, and Hay's or Hill's Rivers. From
thence it keeps a course of about West-North-West, till it forms the
banks of the Missinipi or Churchill River, at Portage de Traite,
latitude 55. 25. North. It now continues in a Western direction,
between the Saskatchiwine and the source of the Missinipi, or Beaver
River, which it leaves behind, and divides the Saskatchiwine from the
Elk River; when, leaving those also behind, and pursuing the same
direction it leads to the high land that lies between the Unjigah and
Tacoutche rivers, from whence it may be supposed to be the same ridge.
From the head of the Beaver River, on the West, the same kind of high
ground runs to the East of North, between the waters of the Elk and
Missinipi River forming the Portage la Loche, and continuing on to the
latitude 57. 15. North, dividing the waters that run to Hudson's Bay
from those going to the North Sea: from thence its course is nearly
North, when an angle runs from it to the North of the Slave Lake, till
it strikes Mackenzie's River.
The last, but by no means the least, is the immense ridge, or succession
of ridges of stony mountains, whose Northern extremity dips in the North
Sea, in latitude 70. North, and longitude 135. West, running nearly
South-East, and begins to be parallel with the coast of the Pacific
Ocean, from Cook's entry, and so onwards to the Columbia. From thence
it appears to quit the coast, but still continuing, with less elevation,
to divide the waters of the Atlantic from those which run into the
Pacific. In those snow-clad mountains rises the Mississippi, if we
admit the Missouri to be its source, which flows into the Gulph of
Mexico; the River Nelson, which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's
River, that discharges itself into the North Sea; and the Columbia
emptying itself into the Pacific Ocean. The great River St. Laurence
and Churchill River, with many lesser ones, derive their sources far
short of these mountains. It is, indeed, the extension of these
mountains so far South on the sea coast, that prevents the Columbia from
finding a more direct course to the sea, as it runs obliquely with the
coast upwards of eight degrees of latitude before it mingles with the
ocean.
It is further to be observed, that these mountains, from Cook's entry to
the Columbia, extend from six to eight degrees in breadth Easterly; and
that along their Eastern skirts is a narrow strip of very marshy, boggy,
and uneven ground, the outer edge of which produces coal and bitumen:
these I saw on the banks of Mackenzie's River, as far North as latitude
66. I also discovered them in my second journey, at the commencement of
the rocky mountains in 56. North latitude, and 120. West longitude; and
the same was observed by Mr. Fidler, one of the servants of the Hudson's
Bay Company, at the source of the South branch of the Saskatchiwine, in
about latitude 52 North, and longitude 112. 30. West.[1] Next to this
narrow belt are immense plains, or meadows, commencing in a point at
about the junction of the River of the Mountain with Mackenzie's River,
widening as they continue East and South, till they reach the Red River
at its confluence with the Assiniboin River, from whence they take a
more Southern direction, along the Mississippi towards Mexico.
Adjoining to these plains is a broken country, composed of lakes, rocks,
and soil.
From the banks of the rivers running through the plains, there appeared
to ooze a saline fluid, concreting into a thin, scurf on the grass.
Near that part of the Slave River where it first loses the name of Peace
River, and along the extreme edge of these plains, are very strong salt
springs, which in the summer concrete and crystallize in great
quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the South-West side of Lake
Winipic, are also many salt ponds, but it requires a regular process to
form salt from them. Along the West banks of the former is to be seen,
at intervals, and traced in the line of the direction of the plains, a
soft rock of lime-stone, in thin and nearly horizontal stratas,
particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Winipic, and Superior lakes, as also
in the beds of the rivers crossing that line. It is also remarkable
that, at the narrowest part of Lake Winipic, where it is not more than
two miles in breadth, the West side is faced with rocks of this stone
thirty feet perpendicular; while, on the East side, the rocks are more
elevated, and of a dark-grey granite.
The latter is to be found throughout the whole extent North of this
country, to the coast of Hudson's Bay, and as I have been informed,
along that coast, onwards to the coast of Labrador; and it may be
further observed, that between these extensive ranges of granite and
lime-stone are found all the great lakes of this country.
There is another very large district which must not be forgotten; and
behind all the others in situation as well as in soil, produce, and
climate. This comprehends the tract called the Barren Grounds, which is
to the North of a line drawn from Churchill, along the North border of
the Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the Hills and Slave
Lake, and along the North side of the latter to the rocky mountains,
which terminate in the North Sea, latitude 70. North, and longitude
135. West; in the whole extent of which no trees are visible, except a
few stinted ones, scattered along its rivers, and with scarce anything
of surface that can be called earth; yet, this inhospitable region is
inhabited by a people who are accustomed to the life it requires. Nor
has bountiful nature withheld the means of subsistence; the rein deer,
which supply both food and clothing, are satisfied with the produce of
the hills, though they bear nothing but a short curling moss, on a
species of which, that grows on the rocks, the people themselves subsist
when famine invades them. Their small lakes are not furnished with a
great variety of fish, but such as they produce are excellent, which,
with hares and partridges, form a proportion of their food.
The climate must necessarily be severe in such a country as we have
described, and which displays so large a surface of fresh water. Its
severity is extreme on the coast of Hudson's Bay, and proceeds from its
immediate exposure to the North West winds that blow off the Frozen
Ocean.
These winds, in crossing directly from the bay over Canada and the
British dominions on the Atlantic, as well as over the Eastern
States of North America to that ocean, (where they give to those
countries a length of winter astonishing to the inhabitants of the same
latitudes in Europe), continue to retain a great degree of force and
cold in their passage, even over the Atlantic, particularly at the time
when the sun is in its Southern declination. The same winds which come
from the Frozen Ocean, over the barren grounds, and across frozen lakes
and snowy plains, bounded by the rocky mountains, lose their frigid
influence, as they travel in a Southern direction, till they get to the
Atlantic Ocean, where they close their progress. Is not this a
sufficient cause for the difference between the climate in America, and
that of the same latitude in Europe?
It has been frequently advanced, that the clearing away the wood has had
an astonishing influence in meliorating the climate in the former: but I
am not disposed to assent to that opinion in the extent which it
proposes to establish, when I consider the very trifling proportion of
the country cleared, compared with the whole. The employment of the axe
may have had some inconsiderable effect; but I look to other causes. I
myself observed in a country, which was in an absolute state of nature,
that the climate is improving; and this circumstance was confirmed to me
by the native inhabitants of it. Such a change, therefore, must proceed
from some predominating operation in the system of the globe which is
beyond my conjecture, and, indeed, above my comprehension, and may,
probably, in the course, of time, give to America the climate of Europe.
It is well known, indeed, that the waters are decreasing there, and that
many lakes are draining and filling up by the earth which is carried
into them from the higher lands by the rivers: and this may have some
partial effect.
The climate on the West coast of America assimilates much more to that
of Europe in the same latitudes: I think very little difference will be
found, except such as proceed from the vicinity of high mountains
covered with snow. This is an additional proof that the difference in
the temperature of the air proceeds from the cause already mentioned.
Much has been said, and much more still remains to be said on the
peopling of America.--On this subject I shall confine myself to one or
two observations, and leave my readers to draw their inferences from
them.
The progress of the inhabitants of the country immediately under our
observation, which is comprised within the line of latitude 45. North,
is as follows: that of the Esquimaux, who possess the sea coast from the
Atlantic through Hudson's Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie's River
(and I believe further), is known to be Westward; they never quit the
coast, and agree in appearance, manners, language, and habits with the
inhabitants of Greenland. The different tribes whom I describe under
the name of Algonquins and Knisteneaux, but originally the same people,
were the inhabitants of the Atlantic coast, and the banks of the river
St. Laurence and adjacent countries: their progress is Westerly, and
they are even found West and North as far as Athabasca. On the
contrary, the Chepewyans, and the numerous tribes who speak their
language, occupy the whole space between the Knisteneaux country and
that of the Esquimaux, stretching behind the natives of the coast of the
Pacific, to latitude 52. North, on the river Columbia. Their progress
is Easterly, and, according to their own traditions, they came from
Siberia; agreeing in dress and manner with the people now found upon the
coast of Asia.
Of the inhabitants of the coast of the Pacific Ocean we know little more
than that they are stationary there. The Nadowasis or Assiniboins, as
well as the different tribes not particularly described, inhabiting the
plains on and about the source and banks of the Saskatchiwine and
Assiniboin rivers, are from the Southward, and their progress is
North-West.
----
The discovery of a passage by sea, North-East or North West from the
Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, has for many years excited the attention
of governments, and encouraged the enterprising spirit of individuals.
The non-existence, however, of any such practical passage being at
length determined, the practicability of a passage through the
continents of Asia and America becomes an object of consideration. The
Russians, who first discovered, that, along the coasts of Asia no useful
or regular navigation existed, opened an interior communication by
rivers, &c., and through that long and wide-extended continent, to the
strait that separates Asia from America, over which they passed to the
adjacent islands and continent of the latter. Our situation, at length,
is in some degree similar to theirs: the non-existence of a practicable
passage by sea and the existence of one through the continent, are
clearly proved; and it requires only the countenance and support of the
British Government, to increase in a very ample proportion this national
advantage, and secure the trade of that country to its subjects.
Experience, however, has proved, that this trade, from its very nature
cannot be carried on by individuals. A very large capital, or credit,
or indeed both, is necessary, and consequently an association of men of
wealth to direct, with men of enterprise to act, in one common interest,
must be formed on such principles, as that in due time the latter may
succeed the former, in continual and progressive succession. Such was
the equitable and successful mode adopted by the merchants from Canada,
which has been already described.
The junction of such a commercial association with the Hudson's Bay
Company, is the important measure which I would propose, and the trade
might then be carried on with a very superior degree of advantage, both
private and public, under the privilege of their charter, and would
prove, in fact, the complete fulfilment of the conditions, on which it
was first granted.
It would be an equal injustice to either party to be excluded from the
option of such an undertaking; for if the one has a right by charter,
has not the other a right by prior possession, as being successor to the
subjects of France, who were exclusively possessed of all the then known
parts of this country, before Canada was ceded to Great Britain, except
the coast of Hudson's Bay, and having themselves been the discoverers of
a vast extent of country since added to his Majesty's territories, even
to the Hyperborean and the Pacific Oceans?
If, therefore, that company should decline, or be averse to engage in,
such an extensive, and perhaps hazardous undertaking, it would not,
surely, be an unreasonable proposal to them, from government, to give up
a right which they refuse to exercise, on allowing them a just and
reasonable indemnification of their stock, regulated by the average
dividends of a certain number of years, or the actual price at which
they transfer their stock.
By enjoying the privilege of the company's charter, though but for a
limited period, there are adventurers who would be willing, as they are
able, to engage in, and carry on the proposed commercial undertaking, as
well as to give the most ample and satisfactory security to government
for the fulfilment of its contract with the company. It would, at the
same time, be equally necessary to add a similar privilege of trade on
the Columbia River, and its tributary waters.
If, however, it should appear, that the Hudson's Bay Company have an
exclusive right to carry on their trade as they think proper, and
continue it on the narrow scale, and with so little benefit to the
public as they now do; if they should refuse to enter into a
co-operative junction with others, what reasonable cause can they assign
to government for denying the navigation of the bay to Nelson's River:
and, by its waters, a passage to and from the interior country, for the
use of the adventurers, and for the sole purpose of transport, under the
most severe and binding restrictions not to interfere with their trade
on the coast, and the country between it and the actual establishments
of the Canadian traders.[2]
By these waters that discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay at Port
Nelson, it is proposed to carry on the trade to their source, at the
head of the Saskatchiwine River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains, not
eight degrees of longitude from the Pacific Ocean. The Tacoutche or
Columbia River flows also from the same mountains, and discharges itself
likewise in the Pacific, in latitude 46. 20. Both of them are capable
of receiving ships at their mouths, and are navigable throughout for
boats.
The distance between these waters is only known from the report of the
Indians. If, however, this communication should prove inaccessible, the
route I pursued, though longer, in consequence of the great angle it
makes to the North, will answer every necessary purpose. But whatever
course may be taken from the Atlantic, the Columbia is the line of
communication from the Pacific Ocean, pointed out by nature, as it is
the only navigable river in the whole extent of Vancouver's minute
survey of that coast: its banks also form the first level country in all
the Southern extent of continental coast from Cook's entry, and,
consequently, the most Northern situation fit for colonization, and
suitable to the residence of a civilized people. By opening this
intercourse between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and forming regular
establishments through the interior, and at both extremes, as well as
along the coasts and islands, the entire command of the fur trade of
North America might be obtained, from latitude 48. North to the pole,
except that portion of it which the Russians have in the Pacific. To
this may be added the fishing in both seas, and the markets of the four
quarters of the globe. Such would be the field for commercial
enterprise, and incalculable would be the produce of it, when supported
by the operations of that credit and capital which Great Britain so
pre-eminently possesses. Then would this country begin to be
remunerated for the expences it has sustained in discovering and
surveying the coast of the Pacific Ocean, which is at present left to
American adventurers, who without regularity or capital, or the desire
of conciliating future confidence, look altogether to the interest of
the moment. They, therefore, collect all the skins they can procure,
and in any manner that suits them, and having exchanged them at Canton
for the produce of China, return to their own country. Such
adventurers, and many of them, as I have been informed, have been very
successful, would instantly disappear from before a well-regulated
trade.
It would be very unbecoming in me to suppose for a moment, that the
East-India Company would hesitate to allow those privileges to their
fellow-subjects which are permitted to foreigners in a trade, that is so
much out of the line of their own commerce, and therefore cannot be
injurious to it. Many political reasons, which it is not necessary here
to enumerate, must present themselves to the mind of every man
acquainted with the enlarged system and capacities of British commerce
in support of the measure which I have very briefly suggested, as
promising the most important advantages to the trade of the united
kingdoms.
[1] Bitumen is also found on the coast of the Slave Lake, in latitude
60. North, near its discharge by Mackenzie's River; and also near the
forks of the Elk River.
[2] Independent of the prosecution of this great object, I conceive,
that the merchants from Canada are entitled to such an indulgence (even
if they should be considered as not possessing a rightful claim), in
order that they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their
present limits, and have it in their power to supply the natives with a
larger quantity of useful articles; the enhanced value of which, and the
present difficulty of transporting them, will be fully comprehended,
when I relate, that the tract of transport occupies an extent of from
three to four thousand miles, through upwards of sixty large fresh water
lakes, and numerous rivers; and that the means of transport are slight
bark canoes. It must also be observed, that those waters are
intercepted by more than two hundred rapids, along which the articles of
merchandise are chiefly carried on men's backs, and over a hundred and
thirty carrying-places, from twenty-five paces to thirteen miles in
length where the canoes and cargoes proceed by the same toilsome and
perilous operations.
THE END
_It is to be observed, that the Courses throughout the Journals are
taken by_ Compass, _and that the Variation must be considered._