MAY, 1793.
_Thursday, 9._--We began our voyage with a course South by West
against a strong current one mile and three quarters, South-West by
South one mile, and landed before eight on an island for the night.
_Friday, 10._--The weather was clear and pleasant, though there was a
keenness in the air; and at a quarter past three in the morning we
continued our voyage, steering South-West three quarters of a mile,
South-West by South one mile and a quarter, South three quarters of a
mile, South-West by South one quarter of a mile, South-West by West one
mile, South-West by South three miles, South by West three quarters of a
mile, and South-West one mile. The canoe being strained from its having
been very heavily laden, became so leaky, that we were obliged to land,
unload, and gum it. As this circumstance took place about twelve, I had
an opportunity of taking an altitude, which made our latitude
55. 58. 48.
When the canoe was repaired we continued our course, steering South-West
by West one mile and an half, when I had the misfortune to drop my
pocket-compass into the water; West half a mile, West-South-West four
miles and an half. Here, the banks are steep and hilly, and in some
parts undermined by the river. Where the earth has given way, the face
of the cliffs discovers numerous strata, consisting of reddish earth and
small stones, bitumen, and a greyish earth, below which, near the
water-edge, is a red stone. Water issues from most of the banks, and
the ground on which it spreads is covered with a thin white scurf, or
particles of a saline substance: there are several of these salt
springs. At half past six in the afternoon the young men landed, when
they killed an elk and wounded a buffalo. In this spot we formed our
encampment for the night.
From the place which we quitted this morning, the West side of the river
displayed a succession of the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld.
The ground rises at intervals to a considerable height, and stretching
inwards to a considerable distance: at every interval or pause in the
rise, there is a very gently-ascending space or lawn, which is alternate
with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole, or, at least as far
as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent theatre of nature has
all the decorations which the trees and animals of the country can
afford it: groves of poplars in every shape vary the scene; and their
intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes: the
former choosing the steeps and uplands, and the latter preferring the
plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended with their young ones
who were frisking about them: and it appeared that the elks would soon
exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. The whole country displayed
an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a blossom were advancing fast
to that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches
reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting sun, added a splendid
gaiety to the scene, which no expressions of mine are qualified to
describe. The East side of the river consists of a range of high land
covered with the white spruce and the soft birch, while the banks abound
with the alder and the willow. The water continued to rise, and the
current being proportionately strong, we made a greater use of setting
poles than paddles.
_Saturday, 11._--The weather was overcast. With a strong wind a-head,
we embarked at four in the morning, and left all the fresh meat behind
us, but the portion which had been assigned to the kettle; the canoe
being already too heavily laden. Our course was West-South-West one
mile, where a small river flowed in from the East, named _Quiscatina
Sepy_, or River with the High Banks; West half a mile, South half a
mile, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West one mile and a
quarter, South-West a quarter of a mile, South-South-West half a mile,
and West by South a mile and a half. Here I took a meridian altitude,
which gave 55. 56. 3. North latitude. We then proceeded West three
miles and a half, West-South-West, where the whole plain was on fire,
one mile, West one mile, and the wind so strong a-head, that it
occasioned the canoe to take in water, and otherwise impeded our
progress. Here we landed to take time, with the mean of three
altitudes, which made the watch slow 1. 42. 10.
We now proceeded West-South-West one mile and a quarter, where we found
a chief of the Beaver Indians on a hunting party. I remained, however,
in my canoe, and though it was getting late, I did not choose to encamp
with these people, lest the friends of my hunters might discourage them
from proceeding on the voyage. We, therefore, continued our course, but
several Indians kept company with us, running along the bank, and
conversing with my people, who were so attentive to them, that they
drove the canoe on a stony flat, so that we were under the necessity of
landing to repair the damages, and put up for the night, though very
contrary to my wishes. My hunters obtained permission to proceed with
some of these people to their lodges, on the promise of being back by
the break of day; though I was not without some apprehension respecting
them. The chief, however, and another man, as well as several people
from the lodges, joined us, before we had completed the repair of the
canoe; and they made out a melancholy story, that they had neither
ammunition or tobacco sufficient for their necessary supply during the
summer. I accordingly referred him to the Fort, where plenty of those
articles were left in the care of my interpreter, by whom they would be
abundantly furnished, if they were active and industrious in pursuing
their occupations. I did not fail, on this occasion, to magnify the
advantages of the present expedition; observing, at the same time, that
its success would depend on the fidelity and conduct of the young men
who were retained by me to hunt. The chief also proposed to borrow my
canoe, in order to transport himself and family across the river;
several plausible reasons, it is true, suggested themselves for
resisting his proposition; but when I stated to him, that, as the canoe
was intended for a voyage of such consequence, no woman could be
permitted to be embarked in it, he acquiesced in the refusal. It was
near twelve at night when he took his leave, after I had gratified him
with a present of tobacco.
_Sunday, 12._--Some of the Indians passed the night with us, and I was
informed by them, that according to our mode of proceeding, we should,
in ten days, get as far as the rocky mountains. The young men now
returned, to my great satisfaction, and with the appearance of
contentment; though I was not pleased when they dressed themselves in
the clothes which I had given them before we left the Fort, as it
betrayed some latent design.
At four in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, steering West three
miles, including one of our course yesterday, North-West by North four
miles, West two miles and a half, North-West by West a mile and a half,
North by East two miles, North-West by West one mile, and
North-North-West three miles. After a continuation of our course to the
North for a mile and a half, we landed for the night on an island where
several of the Indians visited us, but unattended by their women, who
remained in their camp, which was at some distance from us.
The land on both sides of the river, during the two last days, is very
much elevated, but particularly in the latter part of it, and, on the
Western side, presents in different places, white, steep, and lofty
cliffs. Our view being confined by these circumstances, we did not see
so many animals as on the 10th. Between these lofty boundaries, the
river becomes narrow and in a great measure free from islands; for we
had passed only four: the stream, indeed, was not more than from two
hundred to three hundred yards broad; whereas before these cliffs
pressed upon it, its breadth was twice that extent and besprinkled with
islands. We killed an elk, and fired several shots at animals from the
canoe.
The greater part of this band being Rocky Mountain Indians, I
endeavoured to obtain some intelligence of our intended route, but they
all pleaded ignorance, and uniformly declared, that they knew nothing of
the country beyond the first mountain: at the same time they were of
opinion, that, from the strength of the current and the rapids we should
not get there by water; though they did not hesitate to express their
surprise at the expedition we had already made.
I inquired, with some anxiety, after an old man who had already given
me an account of the country beyond the limits of his tribe, and was
very much disappointed at being informed, that he had not been seen
for upwards of a moon. This man had been at war on another large
river beyond the Rocky Mountain, and described to me a fork of it
between the mountains; the Southern branch of which he directed me
to take; from thence, he said, there was a carrying-place of about
a day's march for a young man to get to the river. To prove the truth
of his relation, he consented, that his son, who had been with him in
those parts, should accompany me; and he accordingly sent him to the
fort some days before my departure; but the preceding night he deserted
with another young man, whose application to attend me as a hunter,
being refused, he persuaded the other to leave me. I now thought it
right to repeat to them what I had said to the chief of the first band,
respecting the advantages which would be derived from the voyage,
that the young men might be encouraged to remain with me; as without
them I should not have attempted to proceed.
_Monday, 13._--The first object that presented itself to me this
morning was the young man whom I have already mentioned, as having
seduced away my intended guide. At any other time or place, I should
have chastised him for his past conduct, but in my situation it was
necessary to pass over his offence, lest he should endeavour to exercise
the same influence over those who were so essential to my service. Of
the deserted he gave no satisfactory account, but continued to express
his wish to attend me in his place, for which he did not possess any
necessary qualifications.
The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of rain; and the Indians
pressed me with great earnestness to pass the day with them, and hoped
to prolong my stay among them by assuring me that the winter yet
lingered in the rocky mountains; but my object was to lose no time, and
having given the chief some tobacco for a small quantity of meat, we
embarked at four, when my young men could not conceal their chagrin at
parting with their friends, for so long a period as the voyage
threatened to occupy. When I had assured them that in three moons we
should return to them, we proceeded on our course West-North-West half a
mile, West-South-West one mile and a half, West by North three miles,
North-West by West two miles and a half, South-West by West half a mile,
South-South-West a mile and a half, and South-West a mile and a half.
Here I had a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 17. 44. North latitude.
The last course continued a mile and a half, South by West, three
quarters of a mile, South-West by South three miles and a half, and
West-South-West two miles and a half. Here the land lowered on both
sides, with an increase of wood, and displayed great numbers of animals.
The river also widened from three to five hundred yards, and was full of
islands and flats. Having continued our course three miles, we made for
the shore at seven, to pass the night.
At the place from whence we proceeded this morning, a river falls in
from the North; there are also several islands, and many rivulets on
either side, which are too small to deserve particular notice. We
perceived along the river, tracks of large bears, some of which were
nine inches wide, and of a proportionate length. We saw one of their
dens, or winter-quarters, called _watee_, in an island, which was ten
feet deep, five feet high, and six feet wide; but we had not yet seen
one of those animals. The Indians entertain great apprehension of this
kind of bear, which is called the grisly bear, and they never venture to
attack it but in a party of at least three or four. Our hunters, though
they had been much higher than this part of our voyage, by land, knew
nothing of the river. One of them mentioned, that having been engaged
in a war expedition, his party on their return made their canoes at some
distance below us. The wind was North throughout the day, and at times
blew with considerable violence.
The apprehensions which I had felt respecting the young men were not
altogether groundless, for the eldest of them told me that his uncle had
last night addressed him in the following manner:--"My nephew, your
departure makes my heart painful. The white people may be said to rob
us of you. They are about to conduct you into the midst of our enemies,
and you may nevermore return to us. Were you not with the Chief,[1] I
know not what I should do, but he requires your attendance, and you must
follow him."
_Tuesday, 14._--The weather was clear, and the air sharp, when we
embarked at half past four. Our course was South by West one mile and a
half, South-West by South half a mile, South-West.
We here found it necessary to unload, and gum the canoe, in which
operation we lost an hour; when we proceeded on the last course one mile
and a half. I now took a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 1. 19. North
latitude, and continued to proceed West-South-West two miles and a half.
Here the Bear River which is of a large appearance, falls in from the
East; West three miles and an half, South-South-West one mile and an
half, and South-West four miles and an half, when we encamped upon an
island about seven in the evening.
During the early part of the day, the current was not so strong as we
had generally found it, but towards the evening it became very rapid,
and was broken by numerous islands. We were gratified as usual, with
the sight of animals. The land on the West side is very irregular, but
has the appearance of being a good beaver country; indeed we saw some of
those animals in the river. Wood is in great plenty, and several
rivulets added their streams to the main river. A goose was the only
article of provision which we procured to-day. Smoke was seen, but at a
great distance before us.
_Wednesday, 15._--The rain prevented us from continuing our route till
past six in the morning, when our course was South-West by West three
quarters of a mile; at which time we passed a river on the left, West by
South two miles and a half. The bank was steep, and the current strong.
The last course continued one mile and a half, West-South-West two
miles, where a river flowed in from the right, West by South one mile
and a half, West-North-West one mile, and West by North two miles. Here
the land takes the form of an high ridge, and cut our course, which was
West for three miles, at right angles. We now completed the voyage of
this day.
In the preceding night the water rose upwards of two inches, and had
risen in this proportion since our departure. The wind, which was
West-South-West, blew very hard throughout the day, and with the
strength of the current, greatly impeded our progress. The river, in
this part of it, is full of islands; and the land, on the South or left
side, is thick with wood. Several rivulets also fall in from that
quarter. At the entrance of the last river which we passed, there was a
quantity of wood, which had been cut down by axes, and some by the
beaver. This fall, however, was not made, in the opinion of my people,
by any of the Indians with whom we were acquainted.
The land to the right is of a very irregular elevation and appearance,
composed in some places of clay, and rocky cliffs, and others exhibiting
stratas of red, green, and yellow colours. Some parts, indeed, offer a
beautiful scenery, in some degree similar to that which we passed on the
second day of our voyage, and equally enlivened with the elk and the
buffalo, who were feeding in great numbers, and unmolested by the
hunter. In an island which we passed, there was a large quantity of
white birch, whose bark might be employed in the construction of canoes.
_Thursday, 16._--The weather being clear, we re-embarked at four in
the morning, and proceeded West by North three miles. Here the land
again appeared as if it run across our course, and a considerable river
discharged itself by various streams. According to the Rocky Mountain
Indian, it is called the Sinew River. This spot would be an excellent
situation for a fort or factory, as there is plenty of wood, and every
reason to believe that the country abounds in beaver. As for the other
animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every direction the elk
and the buffalo are seen in possession of the hills and the plains. Our
course continued West-North-West three miles and a half, North-West one
mile and a half, South-West by West two miles; (the latitude was by
observation 56. 16. 54.) North, West by North half a mile,
West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a small river appearing on the
right, North-West one mile and a half, West by North half a mile, West
by South one mile and a half, West one mile; and at seven we formed our
encampment.
Mr. Mackay, and one of the young men, killed two elks, and mortally
wounded a buffalo, but we only took a part of the flesh of the former.
The land above the spot where we encamped, spreads into an extensive
plain, and stretches on to a very high ridge, which, in some parts,
presents a face of rock, but is principally covered with verdure, and
varied with the poplar and white birch tree. The country is so crowded
with animals as to have the appearance, in some places, of a stall-yard,
from the state of the ground, and the quantity of dung which is
scattered over it. The soil is black and light. We this day saw two
grisly and hideous bears.
_Friday, 17._--It froze during the night, and the air was sharp in the
morning, when we continued our course West-North-West three miles and a
half, South-West by South two miles and a half, South-West by West one
mile and a half, West three quarters of a mile, West-South-West one mile
and a quarter, and South-West by South one mile and a half. At two in
the afternoon the rocky mountains appeared in sight, with their summits
covered with snow, bearing South-West by South: they formed a very
agreeable object to every person in the canoe, as we attained the view
of them much sooner than we expected. A small river was seen on our
right, and we continued our progress South-West by South six miles, when
we landed at seven, which was our usual hour of encampment.
Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the side of the river, discharged his
piece at a buffalo, when it burst near the muzzle, but without any
mischievous consequences. On the high grounds, which were on the
opposite side of the river, we saw a buffalo tearing up and down with
great fury, but could not discern the cause of his impetuous motions; my
hunters conjectured that he had been wounded with on arrow by some of
the natives. We ascended several rapids in the course of the day, and
saw one bear.
_Saturday, 18._--It again froze very hard during the night, and at
four in the morning we continued our voyage, but we had not proceeded
two hundred yards, before an accident happened to the canoe, which did
not, however, employ more than three quarters of an hour to complete the
repair. We then steered South by West one mile and three quarters,
South-West by South three miles, South-West by West one mile and a
quarter, West by South three quarters of a mile, South-West half a mile,
West by South one mile, South by West one mile and a half,
South-South-West, where there is a small run of water from the right,
three miles and a half, when the canoe struck on the stump of a tree,
and unfortunately where the banks were so steep that there was no place
to unload, except a small spot, on which we contrived to dispose the
lading in the bow, which lightened the canoe so as to raise the broken
part of it above the surface of the water; by which contrivance we
reached a convenient situation. It required, however, two hours to
complete the repair, when the weather became dark and cloudy, with
thunder, lightning, and rain; we, however, continued the last course
half a mile, and at six in the evening we were compelled by the rain to
land for the night.
About noon we had landed on an island where there were eight lodges of
last year. The natives had prepared bark here for five canoes, and there
is a road along the hills where they had passed. Branches were out and
broken along it; and they had also stripped off the bark of the trees, to
get the interior rind, which forms part of their food.
The current was very strong through the whole of the day, and the coming
up along some of the banks was rendered very dangerous, from the
continual falling of large stones, from the upper parts of them. This
place appears to be a particular pass for animals across the river, as
there are paths leading to it on both sides, every ten yards.
In the course of the day we saw a ground hog, and two cormorants. The
earth also appeared in several places to have been turned up by the
bears, in search of roots.
_Sunday, 19._--It rained very hard in the early part of the night, but
the weather became clear towards the morning, when we embarked at our
usual hour. As the current threatened to be very strong, Mr. Mackay,
the two hunters, and myself, went on shore, in order to lighten the
canoe, and ascended the hills, which are covered with cypress, and but
little encumbered with underwood. We found a beaten path, and before we
had walked a mile, fell in with a herd of buffaloes, with their young
ones: but I would not suffer the Indians to fire on them, from an
apprehension that the report of their fowling pieces would alarm the
natives that might be in the neighbourhood; for we were at this time so
near the mountains, as to justify our expectation of seeing some of
them. We, however, sent our dog after the herd, and a calf was soon
secured by him. While the young men were skinning the animal, we heard
two reports of fire arms from the canoe, which we answered, as it was a
signal for my return; we then heard another, and immediately hastened
down the hill, with our veal, through a very close wood. There we met
one of the men, who informed us that the canoe was at a small distance
below, at the foot of a very strong rapid, and that as several
waterfalls appeared up the river, we should be obliged to unload and
carry. I accordingly hastened to the canoe, and was greatly displeased
that so much time had been lost, as I had given previous directions that
the river should be followed as long as it was practicable. The last
Indians whom we saw had informed us that at the first mountain there was
a considerable succession of rapids, cascades, and falls, which they
never attempted to ascend; and where they always passed over land the
length of a day's march. My men imagined that the carrying place was at
a small distance below us, as a path appeared to ascend a hill, where
there were several lodges, of the last year's construction. The account
which had been given me of the rapids, was perfectly correct: though by
crossing to the other side, I must acknowledge with some risk, in such a
heavy laden canoe, the river appeared to me to be practicable, as far as
we could see: the traverse, therefore, was attempted, and proved
successful. We now towed the canoe along an island, and proceeded
without any considerable difficulty, till we reached the extremity of
it, when the line could be no longer employed; and in endeavouring to
clear the point of the island, the canoe was driven with such violence
on a stony shore, as to receive considerable injury. We now employed
every exertion in our power to repair the breach that had been made, as
well as to dry such articles of our loading as more immediately required
it: we then transported the whole across the point, when we reloaded,
and continued our course about three quarters of a mile. We could now
proceed no further on this side of the water, and the traverse was
rendered extremely dangerous, not only from the strength of the current,
but by the cascades just below us, which, if we had got among them,
would have involved us and the canoe in one common destruction. We had
no other alternative than to return by the same course we came, or to
hazard the traverse, the river on this side being bounded by a range of
steep, over-hanging rocks, beneath which the current was driven on with
resistless impetuosity from the cascades. Here are several islands of
solid rock, covered with a small portion of verdure, which have been
worn away by the constant force of the current, and occasionally, as I
presume, of ice, at the water's edge, so as to be reduced in that part
to one fourth the extent of the upper surface; presenting, as it were,
so many large tables, each of which was supported by a pedestal of a
more circumscribed projection. They are very elevated for such a
situation, and afford an asylum for geese, which were at this time
breeding on them. By crossing from one to the other of these islands,
we came at length to the main traverse, on which we ventured, and were
successful in our passage. Mr. Mackay, and the Indians, who observed
our manoeuvres from the top of a rock, were in continual alarm for our
safety, with which their own, indeed, may be said to have been nearly
connected: however, the dangers that we encountered were very much
augmented by the heavy loading of the canoe.
When we had effected our passage, the current on the West side was
almost equally violent with that from whence we had just escaped, but
the craggy bank being somewhat lower, we were enabled, with a line of
sixty fathoms, to tow the canoe, till we came to the foot of the most
rapid cascade we had hitherto seen. Here we unloaded, and carried every
thing over a rocky point of an hundred and twenty paces. When the canoe
was reloaded, I, with those of my people who were not immediately
employed, ascended the bank, which was there, and indeed, as far as we
could see, composed of clay, stone, and a yellow gravel. My present
situation was so elevated, that the men, who were coming up a strong
point, could not hear me, though I called to them with the utmost
strength of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part of its lading. And
here I could not but reflect, with infinite anxiety, on the hazard of my
enterprize; one false step of those who were attached to the line, or
the breaking of the line itself, would have at once consigned the canoe,
and every thing it contained, to instant destruction: it, however,
ascended the rapid in perfect security, but new dangers immediately
presented themselves, for stones, both small and great, were continually
rolling from the bank, so as to render the situation of those who were
dragging the canoe beneath it extremely perilous; besides, they were at
every step in danger, from the steepness of the ground, of falling into
the water: nor was my solicitude diminished by my being necessarily
removed at times from the sight of them.
In our passage through the woods, we came to an inclosure, which had
been formed by the natives for the purpose of setting snares for the
elk, and of which we could not discover the extent. After we had
travelled for some hours through the forest, which consisted of the
spruce, birch, and the largest poplars I had ever seen, we sunk down
upon the river where the bank is low, and near the foot of a mountain;
between which, and a high ridge, the river flows in a channel of about
one hundred yards broad; though, at a small distance below, it rushes on
between perpendicular rocks, where it is not much more than half that
breadth. Here I remained, in great anxiety, expecting the arrival of
the canoe, and after some time I sent Mr. Mackay with one of the Indians
down the river in search of it, and with the other I went up to it to
examine what we might expect in that quarter. In about a mile and a
half I came to a part where the river washes the feet of lofty
precipices, and presented, in the form of rapids and cascades, a
succession of difficulties to our navigation. As the canoe did not come
in sight, we returned, and from the place where I had separated with
Mr. Mackay, we saw the men carrying it over a small rocky point. We met
them at the entrance of the narrow channel already mentioned; their
difficulties had been great indeed, and the canoe had been broken, but
they had persevered with success, and having passed the carrying-place,
we proceeded with the line as far as I had already been, when we crossed
over and encamped on the opposite beach; but there was no wood on this
side of the water, as the adjacent country had been entirely over-run by
fire. We saw several elks feeding on the edge of the opposite
precipice, which was upwards of three hundred feet high.
Our course to-day was about South-South-West two miles and a half,
South-West half a mile, South-West by South one mile and a half, South
by West half a mile, South-West half a mile, and West one mile and a
half. There was a shower of hail, and some rain from flying clouds. I
now dispatched a man with an Indian to visit the rapids above, when the
latter soon left him to pursue a beaver, which was seen in the shallow
water on the inside of a stony island; and though Mr. Mackay, and the
other Indian joined him, the animal at length escaped from their
pursuit. Several others were seen in the course of the day, which I by
no means expected, as the banks are almost every where so much elevated
above the channel of the river. Just as the obscurity of the night drew
on, the man returned with an account that it would be impracticable to
pass several points, as well as the super-impending promontories.
_Monday, 20._--The weather was clear with a sharp air, and we renewed
our voyage at quarter past four, on a course South-West by West three
quarters of a mile. We now, with infinite difficulty passed along the
foot of a rock, which, fortunately, was not an hard stone, so that we
were enabled to cut steps in it for the distance of twenty feet; from
which, at the hazard of my life, I leaped on a small rock below, where I
received those who followed me on my shoulders. In this manner four of
us passed and dragged up the canoe, in which attempt we broke her. Very
luckily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us, without which we
could not have made a fire, as no wood was to be procured within a mile
of the place. When the canoe was repaired, we continued towing it along
the rocks to the next point, when we embarked, as we could not at
present make any further use of the line, but got along the rocks of a
round high island of stone, till we came to a small sandy bay. As we
had already damaged the canoe, and had every reason to think that she
soon would risk much greater injury, it became necessary for us to
supply ourselves with bark, as our provision of that material article
was almost exhausted two men were accordingly sent to procure it, who
soon returned with the necessary store.
Mr. Mackay, and the Indians who had been on shore, since we broke the
canoe, were prevented from coming to us by the rugged and impassable
state of the ground. We, therefore, again resumed our course with the
assistance of poles, with which we pushed onwards till we came beneath a
precipice, where we could not find any bottom; so that we were again
obliged to have recourse to the line, the management of which was
rendered not only difficult but dangerous, as the men employed in towing
were under the necessity of passing on the outside of trees that grew on
the edge of the precipice. We, however, surmounted this difficulty, as
we had done many others, and the people who had been walking over land
now joined us. They also had met with their obstacles in passing the
mountain.
It now became necessary for us to make a traverse, where the water was
so rapid, that some of the people stripped themselves to their shirts
that they might be the better prepared for swimming, in case any
accident happened to the canoe, which they seriously apprehended; but we
succeeded in our attempt without any other inconvenience, except that of
taking in water. We now came to a cascade, when it was thought
necessary to take out part of the lading. At noon we stopped to take an
altitude, opposite to a small river that flowed in from the left: while
I was thus engaged, the men went on shore to fasten the canoe, but as
the current was not very strong, they had been negligent in performing
this office; it proved, however, sufficiently powerful to sheer her off,
and if it had not happened that one of the men, from absolute fatigue
had remained and held the end of the line, we should have been deprived
of every means of prosecuting our voyage, as well as of present
subsistence. But notwithstanding the state of my mind on such an
alarming circumstance, and an intervening cloud that interrupted me, the
altitude which I took has been since proved to be tolerably correct, and
gave 56. North latitude. Our last course was South-South-West two miles
and a quarter.
We now continued our toilsome and perilous progress with the line West
by North, and as we proceeded the rapidity of the current increased, so
that in the distance of two miles we were obliged to unload four times,
and carry every thing but the canoe: indeed, in many places, it was with
the utmost difficulty that we could prevent her from being dashed to
pieces against the rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five we had
proceeded to where the river was one continued rapid.
Here we again took every thing out of the canoe, in order to tow her up
with the line, though the rocks were so shelving as greatly to increase
the toil and hazard of that operation. At length, however, the
agitation of the water was so great, that a wave striking on the bow of
the canoe broke the line, and filled us with inexpressible dismay, as it
appeared impossible that the vessel could escape from being dashed to
pieces, and those who were in her from perishing. Another wave,
however, more propitious than the former, drove her out of the tumbling
water, so that the men were enabled to bring her ashore, and though she
had been carried over rocks by these swells which left them naked a
moment after, the canoe had received no material injury. The men were,
however, in such a state from their late alarm, that it would not only
have been unavailing but imprudent to have proposed any further progress
at present, particularly as the river above us, as far as we could see,
was one white sheet of foaming water.
[1] These people, as well as all the natives on this side of Lake
Winipic, give the mercantile agent that distinguished appellation.