Wickham and myself went on shore, in order if possible to induce them to
visit the ship: on landing he recognised them for old acquaintances, and
I gave the eldest of the party, a handkerchief upon which he seemed to
have set his affections; however when he understood our wish for the
company of himself and friends on board, he was with difficulty induced
to retain it. None but those who have made the experiment, are aware of
what has to be overcome before any sort of intercourse can be carried on
by signs; or how often, among the most intelligent, the greatest mistakes
must of necessity occur. I have since thought, remembering what passed
during this interview, that while we were making signs to them that on
board they would find something to eat, each man's fears suggested the
probability of a certain convocation, not where he eats, but where he is
eaten, and induced him to decline standing treat upon the occasion.
The singular manner these men had also of holding the face turned
upwards, in order to escape the plague of flies, fully confirmed the
truth of old Dampier's account of the manners of these people when he
first discovered this part of the world. The eldest was the spokesman, or
rather the signsman of the party, and this is always the custom, so far
as we have had an opportunity of judging. The word they make use of in
bowing (which they did quite in an Eastern style) appeared to be irru
irru: their breasts were scarred with deep horizontal cuts, such as we
had previously noticed on the natives in Roebuck Bay. I was so much
struck with the resemblance between these people and the natives of
Tierra del Fuego, that I have been tempted to believe that the stream of
population flowed thitherward from the continent of America.
I ought to mention that when Captain Wickham and myself left the ship, in
the hope of inducing the natives to return with us, Miago, hearing of the
expected visit, immediately went below, and dressed himself to the best
possible advantage. No sooner did the boat come alongside, than he
appeared at the gangway, inquiring with the utmost possible dignity,
"where blackfellas?" and was evidently and deeply mortified that he had
no opportunity of astonishing the natives.
There has been a marked change in the weather, since the sun crossed the
equator: we have had no repetitions of the easterly squalls, before so
prevalent, and the winds have been almost regular in the following order.
From 3 P.M. to 1 A.M. a light breeze from South-South-West which
freshening alters to South-East where it remains till 8 A.M., from that
hour gradually decreasing, and at the same time changing to North-East
and North. The thermometer, for some days past has ranged from 72 to 89
degrees; a temperature which we thought a few months ago intolerable, was
now quite agreeable.
We looked forward with the utmost anxiety to the result of our arrival at
Port George the Fourth, as there, or at least in that neighbourhood, we
hoped to hear some tidings of our friends Grey and Lushington, who, when
we separated from them at the Cape, intended to land in Hanover Bay,
establish a depot for stores, and from thence penetrate if possible into
the interior.
THEIR PEACEABLE DISPOSITION.
I had no fear on the subject of any hostility from the natives, for in
our own experience, we had as yet always found them inoffensive and
peaceable; while should they prove otherwise, I was satisfied that a very
slight acquaintance with the effects of gunpowder would be quite
sufficient to quell their warlike propensities, but I did fear that they
had chosen a very unfavourable point for debarkation, and that many
causes would combine to arrest their progress into the interior. How
unhappily my anticipations were verified, will be seen hereafter.
Early on the morning of the 3rd, we left our anchorage under Point
Cunningham, and by two o'clock P.M., had worked through Sunday Strait,
where we encountered its usual heavy tide-races. At four o'clock in the
afternoon, Caffarelli Island bore East-South-East, 9 miles distant: and
about six, the wind, which through the day had been light and variable
quite deserted us, when to avoid drifting back into the strait we
anchored in 29 fathoms; Caffarelli Island bearing South-South-East 5
miles. The tide here appeared to be one hour earlier than in Sunday
Strait: the flood set in a south-easterly, and the ebb in an opposite
direction, at the rate of from half to one mile per hour.
The 24th saw us again underweigh, by the light of the stars, but the wind
being variable and against us, we did not get beyond Adele Island, where
we anchored in 14 fathoms: the nearest part of it bearing North 75
degrees East 3 miles.
ADELE ISLAND.
Brue Reef was seen in the course of the day, and appeared to be correctly
laid down by Captain King: there appeared, however, some discrepancy in
the position of Adele Island, the southern extremity of which we found to
be in latitude 15 degrees 32 minutes 30 seconds South, which is one mile
and a half to the southward of the place assigned to it in his chart. The
sea was breaking heavily on the reef, which fronts the island for a
distance of two miles. The island itself is low, desolate and barren. We
noticed there was scarcely any set of tide at this anchorage. During the
day's progress we found several coral ledges, in from 11 to 13 fathoms,
and trending North-East by East, and with from 25 to 35 fathoms between
them. The specimens of this beautiful submarine production brought up by
the lead, were of the most delicate kind, nor on any occasion did the
lead present any appearance to indicate that it had fallen among a
coarser sort. One beautiful fragment was obtained in Sunday Strait in 30
fathoms, a depth at which living coral is rarely found.
BEAGLE BANK.
April 5.
Daylight on the 5th found us standing to the
eastward--East-North-East--with a light northerly wind, in soundings
ranging from 14 to 40 fathoms, and over a bottom of white and brown sand
in the deep, and coral rock in the shoal water. In the afternoon we had
the good fortune to discover one of the reefs, which render the
navigation of this part of the coast rather hazardous. The position of
this danger, is however well marked by a bank of very white sand and dead
coral, from which the reef extends two miles and a half, in a
North-North-West and one mile in a South-South-East direction; and which
rising some 15 feet above the mean level of the blue surrounding water,
became a conspicuous object from our deck, even at the distance of six
miles. We gave our discovery the name of Beagle Bank, as another memorial
of the useful services in which our little vessel had been so frequently
engaged, and our observations enabled us to fix the centre of it in
latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes South, longitude 123 degrees 36 minutes
East.
SHOAL SOUNDINGS.
We anchored in the evening in 16 fathoms, the bank distant 3 1/2 miles in
a South by East direction: half a mile nearer to it, we found only 4
fathoms. The tide rose at this anchorage 12 feet. The flood stream began
by setting to the South-South-West, and ended at South-east by East. The
ebb set West by North, and the utmost strength of stream never exceeded
one mile per hour.
It was high-water at 10 o'clock P.M., and the stream changed at the same
time. The tide was therefore two hours later here than in the entrance to
King's Sound, from which it would appear that the tidal wave approaches
this coast from the West-South-West.
April 6.
We made slight progress towards Port George the Fourth, during the
forenoon; the water deepening to 20 and 30 fathoms, soon after we had
weighed. We espied a ridge extending to the South-east from Beagle Bank,
which supplies another fact in support of the opinion I have before
advanced, and which gives a north-westerly trend to these ledges. The
wind failing, and the ebb-tide drifting us again to the westward, in
sight of Beagle Bank, the anchor was dropped 4 1/2 miles East by North of
it, and in a depth of 12 fathoms, to which we had suddenly shoaled from
29, this position marked the limit of shoal soundings in an East by North
direction from Beagle Bank. Between sunset and midnight we were able to
make 17 miles, in an East by North direction, when a contrary tide, and
an accompanying calm, compelled us to anchor in 31 fathoms: the soundings
during the run had varied from 35 to 39 fathoms: the bottom, latterly a
soft mud, of a dirty grey colour. A twilight star placed our position 17
miles west of Red Island, which corresponded with the bearings at
daylight.
April 7.
The wind being still very light, we were compelled to wait for the
flood-tide, which did not favour us till a quarter past six in the
morning. The last direction of the ebb stream was north. It was nearly
dark before we reached our anchorage, in 18 fathoms, one mile from Point
Adieu: on our way material was secured for laying down the sea-face of
the Champagny Islands. Red Island brought to our recollection Captain
Heywood, by whom this part of the Australian continent had been seen, and
of whose earlier career a notice will be found in Sir John Barrow's
interesting narrative of the Mutiny of the Bounty.
TRAFALGAR AND WATERLOO.
The soundings during the entire day, ranged from 27 to 30 fathoms, and
the character of the bottom was similar to that last described. Our
observations for latitude did not verify our position by the chart,
though all its bearings and distances appeared relatively correct. The
discrepancy may perhaps be ascribed to the effect of refraction, as we
were prevented by the land from observing on both horizons. The most
remarkable objects in this neighbourhood, were two hills, named by
Captain King, Mount Trafalgar, and Mount Waterloo, to record in one
hemisphere, two memorable events, not likely to be easily forgotten in
the other: although assuredly the time will come when the peaceful
triumphs of science and civilization, of which these names are here
enduring witnesses, will be far more highly valued, and far more truly
honoured! Mount Trafalgar made its first appearance in the form of a huge
quoin or wedge, resting longitudinally upon the horizon, with its point
towards the south-east.
Among other memoranda for the improvement of the chart of this coast, it
should be noted that the reef extending to the North-West from Jackson's
peaked Island, appears to join the small islands lying near it in that
direction, and to which, from their colour, we gave the name of The Brown
Islands.
THE BROWN ISLANDS.
As there was every probability of the ship being detained in this
neighbourhood for some days, searching for traces of Lieutenants Grey and
Lushington's party, and as the examination of Collier Bay, where we still
hoped to find an opening leading into the interior, would prevent the
necessity of our return to this part of the coast, I applied to Captain
Wickham, for permission to proceed with the two whaleboats on that
service. A wound on the foot had in some degree unfitted me for any very
active duty, but I felt satisfied that the opportunity--perhaps the last
I might have--ought not to be undervalued or neglected.
BRECKNOCK HARBOUR.
April 8.
By daylight on the 8th, the boats had left the ship, and were standing to
the southward among the islands. Our party consisted of Mr. Helpman, Mr.
Fitzmaurice and myself. Passing through the eastern part of Port George
the Fourth, we entered Roger Strait, which led into a large sheet of
water, forming a beautiful harbour; we landed to obtain a better view of
it, on a small island at the southern entrance of this strait. This islet
looked truly inviting, being clothed with long rich grass, which to our
cost we found concealed boulders of granite; this was the first time we
met with this primitive rock, and from the colour of the surrounding
heights it was evident we were in an old red sandstone region. Strange to
say the attraction on this island rendered our compasses quite useless;
we noticed on its North-West side a portion of the wreck of a small
vessel. There was a small mangrove inlet in the South-East corner of this
harbour, over which the land was low, forming a gap in the neighbouring
heights. We now pushed on for an island lying in the entrance of the
harbour, bearing West by North 6 miles; our soundings in passing over
this part (of what we afterwards called Brecknock Harbour, as Captain
King had named the entrance of it Camden Sound, from a distant view he
had of it) gave a depth of 7 fathoms, over an even muddy bottom; but
towards and in the entrance it increased to 13 fathoms.
ENTRANCE ISLE.
The island we now landed on, we called from its situation, Entrance
Island. From a high part overlooking its steep southern side we had a
very commanding view. The centre of a string of small islets bore north
one mile; there extended 2 miles in a west direction, from the north
point of the harbour; both these and Entrance Isle escaped Captain King's
notice, owing to the distant view he had of this part of the coast. A
point bearing South-West distant 3 miles, was the extreme of the mainland
that we could see in the direction we were going. We found the sandstone
of this Island not of the same ancient red colour as that on the shore
fronting it. One boat was employed in the meantime sounding the entrance
of the harbour, which we found to be 2 miles across, and from 9 to 15
fathoms deep; the mouth of it faces the West-North-West, Entrance Isle
lying half a mile outside its points, with a clear channel nearly a mile
wide, on either side of it.
About a quarter of a mile off the main, and fronting the south side of
this island, there is a singular needle-shaped rock, 20 feet high,
marking the outer extreme of a coral ledge, which is covered at
high-water. As it now blew a fresh breeze from seaward, and the afternoon
was far advanced, we spent the remainder of the day in a further
examination of the entrance. We were much pleased with the result of our
evening's work, finding the approach to this fine harbour quite free from
danger, and capable of admitting vessels of any size; there were no reefs
or islets seaward of it to add to the anxiety of the navigator, or lessen
the value of our discovery; the importance of which will be greatly
enhanced, should Lieutenants Grey and Lushington have the good fortune to
discover any land fit for colonization in its neighbourhood. Our labours
here closed with observations for a boat rate, for the chronometers and
latitude, the latter being 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutes South on a sandy
beach at the eastern side of Entrance Isle.
SLATE ISLANDS.
April 9.
We rounded the extreme point to the South-West seen from Entrance Isle at
sunrise; the rocks on this point were arranged quite in the form of a
fort, from whence it received the name of Battery Point; another group of
islands now came in view, bearing from Battery Point South-West by South
about 4 miles; these we named Slate Islands, from their singular
formation. They extended one mile North-West from a point of land;
between them and Battery Point, the coast fell back forming two bays,
crossing the mouths of which we had 13 fathoms. On passing Slate Islands,
we saw a headland, named by Captain King Point Hall, bearing South by
West 1/2 West distant 8 miles. It has a high peaked and isolated
appearance, being separated from the contiguous high land by a low neck.
We passed a bay 2 miles wide on its north-eastern, and a snug cove on its
south-eastern side. It was past noon and we were glad to see the stagnant
calm, that had for hours reigned around, dispelled by the seabreeze which
now darkened the horizon. Our course, during the afternoon was South by
East along a low rocky coast, but as we had to contend with a three-knot
tide, we did not get farther than a small sandy cove, bearing South by
East 9 miles from Point Hall, by the close of the day, which was the only
spot we had seen the whole of the afternoon capable of affording shelter
for the boats.
FRESHWATER COVE.
We were agreeably surprised to find a stream of water running into the
head of this cove, as the parched appearance of the low hills over it did
not lead us to expect such good luck, in remembrance of which we called
it Freshwater Cove. Landing, I hastened to the south point of the cove,
to secure the necessary data for the chart, before the surrounding
objects were veiled in darkness. We again appeared to be in a sterile
white sandstone region, where, with the exception of a few land birds,
there was a total absence of animal life, and almost that of the
vegetable, for even the gumtrees common in this part, were not to be
seen. Our view to the southward was very limited, embracing only the
Montgomery Islands of Captain King; they consist of six small rocky
islets resting on an extensive coral flat, that we afterwards observed to
be dry at low-water, and which extended to a large low sandy island,
lying six miles west from them; the latter was not seen by Captain King,
in his distant view of this neighbourhood. The eastern and largest of the
Montgomery Isles stands on the extreme of the coral flat; we found it to
be 70 feet high, and bore South-West by South 7 miles from this point of
Freshwater Cove. The latitude we obtained in the course of the night gave
a result of 15 degrees 49 minutes south.
April 10.
At daylight we continued pursuing our South by East course, following the
same kind of low straight rocky shore, as that of yesterday afternoon. We
passed inside a reef fronting the shore from a mile south of Freshwater
Cove; this passage was about half a mile wide and from 7 to 12 fathoms
deep. Having the flood-tide in our favour, we proceeded rapidly, and at
the end of four miles, found the trend of the coast suddenly changed to
East-North-East for two miles, when it again took a southerly direction,
forming a chain of high rocky islets. Deferring our examination of the
main, lying about a mile in the rear of these islets, we kept on our
South by East course, in the direction of some very high land now seen
for the first time. Three miles further brought us to a small rocky
islet, where we landed for a set of angles.
Our hopes were considerably raised on reaching the top of this islet, by
finding that we looked in vain for land towards the head of Collier Bay;
the high land to the southward proved to be the south point of a large
bay, having on its northern side similar high ranges.
LIZARDS.
This island was overrun with a great variety of lizards, in consequence
of which we named it Lizard Island. During our stay here, two birds,*
rare on this part of the coast, were shot; they were of a smaller kind
than any I had before seen, and differed from them in plumage, being
without the white collar round the neck. Leaving Lizard Island, we
continued our southerly route, and ere long saw more land ahead, lying
like a blue cloud on the horizon. Ten miles brought us abreast of the
high land we had first seen, and six more to the southern point of a bay,
lying on its south-western side, where the duties of the survey again
obliged us to land. We considered ourselves now entering once more on the
new lands of Australia, as Captain King could scarcely have had even a
distant glimpse of this part; his extreme southern position being abreast
of Freshwater Cove, from whence he describes the view of the coast as
follows. "The land to the southward trended deeply in, and appeared to me
much broken in its character." We therefore naturally looked on
everything here with a greater degree of interest, and with the view of
affording time to examine the country, and determine the position of this
point by observation, I arranged to pass the night in its vicinity.
(*Footnote. Haematopus picatus, described in the Appendix to Captain
King's work on Australia.)
HEAD OF COLLIER BAY.
The view from this station, blighted our hopes of finding an opening
leading into the interior from Collier Bay, for we could trace the land
all round the head of it, forming high ranges without a single break.
This malapropos discovery, materially diminished the pleasure we had
before experienced, on first seeing a new part of the continent. About
twenty miles west from where we stood, were a group of islands, which I
was able to identify as those seen from Bathurst Island, near the eastern
entrance point of King's Sound; they appeared to extend about ten miles
in a northerly direction, from the western point of Collier Bay.
AN EAGLE SHOT.
Whilst using the theodolite, we came within the searching glance of a
hungry eagle, which soaring over our heads for some time, at length
swooped within range of our guns, when he paid for his curiosity with the
loss of his life. This was the only rapacious bird we saw in Collier Bay,
and appears to be of the species Falco leucogaster Latham.* On
examination, the stomach contained fish and part of a small snake, and
from what I have since observed this bird frequents the sea coast. Their
nests are very large, built on bare spots in the shape of a pyramid; some
of them measuring three feet in diameter, and six high. To convey a
better idea of the size and exposed situation of the nests of these
birds, I may state that on low parts of the coast, they were often used
as surveying marks. This projection, which we called Eagle Point, is of a
siliceous sandstone formation, intersected by nearly vertical veins of
quartz, and forms a spur thrown off from a high range four miles to the
south-eastward. We did not find any water in the few miles of country
traversed in the course of the afternoon, yet everything wore a rich
green appearance, and the scenery in some of the dells we crossed, was
very picturesque, and quite alive with birds and insects; flights of
many-coloured parakeets swept by with a rapidity that resembled the
rushing sound of a passing gust of wind. Among the trees, I noticed for
the first time the Banksia, common in Western Australia; Mr. Cunningham,
the botanist who accompanied Captain King, did not consider its
indigenous empire extended to the North-West coast. Of the other kinds,
and which complete all the variety we observed on this part of the
continent, were the mimosa, acacia, papyrus, and two sorts of Eucalyptus;
there were also several plants of the order Leguminosae.
(*Footnote. Figured in Mr. Gould's work on the Birds of Australia as
Ichthyiaetus leucogaster.)
THE SEABREEZE.
We had a breeze throughout the entire day, from North-East till 1
o'clock, then West-North-West till near midnight; this westerly or
seabreeze, reached us within ten minutes of the time it did yesterday, a
regularity we found to prevail the few days we spent on this part of the
coast. The tide (being near the spring) fell in the night 36 feet,
leaving the greater part of the bay dry at low-water. Our observations
for latitude placed Eagle Point in 16 degrees 10 1/4 minutes south.
April 11.
We left with the first streak of dawn, and pursued our course to the
southward, passing inside a small reef lying half a mile west from Eagle
Point. The eastern shore now took a South by West direction, forming
shallow bights, flanked by hills of moderate elevation; our next station
was an islet at the head of Collier Bay, bearing South-South-West 1/2
West 15 miles from Eagle Point: it was in the mouth of a shoal bay about
three miles deep in a West-South-West direction, the shores of which were
lined with mangroves and overlooked by a high rocky ridge. The width of
Collier Bay, at its entrance 20 miles, was here only six.
NARROW INLET.
The western shore ran in a North-West by West direction, a straight rocky
coast, over which rose abruptly a range of barren heights. The tide
stream gradually weakened as we approached the head of the bay, where it
scarcely exceeded half a knot, and the soundings decreased to seven
fathoms, with a kind of muddy sand bottom; but the clearness of the
water, and the equal duration of the flood and ebb streams, afforded the
most conclusive evidence of the small opening we now discovered in the
South-East corner of the bay being nothing more than an inlet. It bore
from this islet East-South-East four miles, yet as a drowning man catches
at a straw, so did we at this inlet, and were soon in the entrance, which
we found to be half a mile wide, with a very strong tide rushing out.
After some difficulty we landed on a high rocky island in the mouth of
it, the summit of which afforded us a good view of the inlet, which
within the entrance widened out and was about two miles deep. A point
prevented our seeing the eastern extreme, which Mr. Helpman was sent to
examine; he found it extended two miles in an East-North-East direction,
and like the other parts of it, to be lined with a scanty growth of
mangroves, and flanked by high rocky land. The shape of this inlet
resembles that of a bottle with a broad base, and being subject to a
tidal change of level of 36 feet, it is easy to imagine with what
violence such a body of water must rush through the narrow entrance to
keep on a level with the slow-moving waters of the bay outside. The cause
of this great rise of tide in the head of Collier Bay, may be attributed
to there being no escape for the vast body of water flowing into it. The
land over the depth of this inlet which I have before spoken of, as being
barren rocky heights, bounded our view to the southward; it bore
South-South-East three miles, and lies in latitude 16 degrees 25 minutes
South and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes East being the farthest point
we determined towards the centre of the continent. The extreme position
reached in that direction by Lieutenant Lushington of Lieutenant Grey's
expedition, bears from this point, North 64 degrees East fifty miles.
Thus terminated our explorations in Collier Bay, and although we had not
the good fortune to find it the outlet of some large opening leading into
the interior, still we succeeded in setting at rest the speculation, such
a deep indentation of the coastline had hitherto afforded, and increased
our geographical knowledge of this part of the continent 35 miles.
RETURN OF THE BOATS.
In the afternoon we commenced our return to Port George the Fourth, from
which we were then distant about 80 miles; after delaying to examine two
islands lying North by East four miles from the inlet, of slate
formation, we reached a narrow point six miles further down the bay, in
time to save a true bearing from the sun's amplitude. We were surprised
to find this point also composed of the same kind of grey slate. The
islands we examined differed from those of the same formation in King's
Sound, having steep precipitous sides to the North-West instead of to the
South-East. As it was by this time nightfall we did not proceed farther.
April 12.
Towards the morning there was a South-East breeze which brought the
thermometer down to 76 degrees; it generally ranged between 80 and 96
degrees.
RAFT POINT.
The large bay discovered on our way to the southward now became the point
of interest, and as daylight closed in the boats were secured in a small
sandy cove, just within its southern point, where there were several
native rafts, constructed precisely in the same manner as those seen in
King's Sound, from which circumstance we called the place Raft Point.
Immediately over it was the high land first seen in coming down the bay;
huge masses were rent from its lofty frowning crags, on which the rays of
the setting sun produced the most grotesque figures. A beautiful stream
of water fell into the sea, in leaping cascades, half a mile inside the
cove. Several rock kangaroos were seen on the heights; and after securing
observations with some early stars, for latitude, which placed Raft Point
in 16 degrees 4 minutes South, we tried an experiment to get a shot at
the kangaroos, by setting fire to the grass and small wood growing at the
base, and in the interstices of the rocks.
A CONFLAGRATION.
This part of the country being very dry, a fire was soon kindled, and in
a few minutes the cliffs resounded with the noise of the flames, as they
darted fiercely upwards, revealing their riven sides, and occasionally
bursting out behind large masses of strange figured rocks to the no
slight risk of our sportsmen, who were perched upon them. Seabirds,
frightened from their resting places, screamed fearfully, and the dismal
howl of the wild dog, equally alarmed, sometimes fell on the ear amidst
the roaring of the dangerous element, which in the intense darkness of
the night we could not but admire. Whilst gazing on this wild scene, I
could not help speculating on the probable cause the natives would assign
for this great conflagration; the bright glare of which must have
extended over several miles of country, perhaps alarming and doubtless
causing deep consultation amongst the wise men of their tribes. It may
also have taxed their power of invention, as they never use large fires
in the night, except in wild stormy weather, when the creaking trees, and
moaning wind, give them a dread of a visit from the Evil Spirit.
April 13.
Being anxious to examine the range over the cove, I desired Mr. Helpman
to explore the North-East corner of this large bay, and the main lying
behind the islands, fronting the coast to the northward of it. We
accordingly moved off on our several occupations at an early hour. After
much difficulty Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself found ourselves on a tableland
of sandstone formation, elevated by measurement 900 feet above the sea
level, and by far the highest land yet noticed on this part of the
continent; the prospect here was very cheerless; similar but lower ranges
met the eye in every direction towards the interior, those overlooking
the eastern shore of the bay, were from 6 to 700 feet high. There
appeared to be a large island in its North-East corner, which fell back
about 10 miles, and like many other parts of it was lined with a growth
of mangroves. A string of smaller islands extended three miles from the
north point, leaving an entrance only two miles wide. A sandstone ridge
similar to that on which we stood, rose abruptly from the north point,
but of less elevation. I was not a little surprised to find that
Lieutenant Grey had seen land from 2 to 3000 feet high, only about 30
miles from the height on which we stood, but as he had not the means of
measuring these great elevations, and as Captain King, who was within 20
miles of the high land alluded to, does not notice it, yet mentions some
hills from 3 to 400 feet high, 15 miles further to the North-East, I am
induced to believe that Lieutenant Grey may have over-estimated the
height of the land he saw.*
(*Footnote. Mounts Trafalgar and Waterloo, which are not nine hundred
feet high, are the first points of the continent that meet the eye from
seaward.)
DOUBTFUL BAY.
From subsequent information, I called this Doubtful Bay; the tide ran
into it at the rate of from 1 to 3 knots, but the clear appearance of the
water, and entire absence of driftwood, afforded strong grounds for
supposing that it did not receive the waters of any river. Leaving Raft
Point, we crossed over to the islands on the opposite side, for a few
angles on their southern extreme, and afterwards made the best of our way
to Freshwater Cove. The day had, however, closed in long before arriving
there, and in the extreme darkness of the night the Cove was difficult to
find. Indeed my companions could not believe we were there until one of
the men returned with a keg of water from the stream in the head of it.
MR. HELPMAN'S REPORT.
Mr. Helpman joined us at sunset, and gave the following report of his
proceedings: "On leaving the cove at Raft Point, we passed along the
south shore for two miles, and landed on a point that afforded a most
commanding view of the bay, and the openings in its North-East corner,
which appeared to be formed by a large island lying near the shore. This
supposition afterwards proved to be correct, on landing at a point
fronting its western extreme, from whence I was enabled to trace the
shore round the North-East corner of the bay, till I identified it as the
same we had seen on the eastern side of the island from the station just
left. From the still and discoloured state of the water, I felt satisfied
there was no opening in the North-East corner of this bay. I am, however,
willing to admit it may have been more satisfactory to others if there
had been sufficient time at my disposal to have actually gone round the
island. We now hastened off to examine the mainland, lying behind a chain
of islands to the northward, where we also failed to discover an
opening."
MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.
As this account of Mr. Helpman's coincided with the opinion I had formed
of the other parts of the coast, I was induced at that time to come to
the conclusion that the river Glenelg which I found Lieutenants Grey and
Lushington had discovered, on my return to the ship, did not communicate
with the sea in this neighbourhood, as Lieutenant Grey had supposed, but
took a South-West direction, flanking Collier Bay, and terminating in the
mangrove openings on the eastern shore of Stokes' Bay in King's Sound. My
opinion was strengthened by Lieutenant Lushington having seen from his
furthest position (which has already been given) a very high bluff point
to the southward, distant 6 or 7 miles, and a line of cliffs under which
he conceived that an opening of the sea or a river may run. Further
experience has convinced me of the great difficulty attending the
discovery of the mouths of rivers in Australia, and as Mr. Helpman did
not actually visit the North-East corner of Doubtful Bay (named in
consequence) I am inclined to believe there is a possibility of the mouth
of the Glenelg still being found there.
April 14.
We were on our way to Point Hall before the eastern hills had received
their golden hue from the rays of the rising sun, and landed to ascend
the summit of that headland from the bay, on its South-East side, which
proved to be a safe anchorage, except with South-West winds, having a
small islet in its centre. We ascended the height on the lee side, and as
the sun was now approaching the zenith the heat became very oppressive;
but the air was quite perfumed with the rich fragrance of different gums.
This warm aromatic odour we always experienced in a slighter degree on
first landing in North-western Australia.
REMARKABLE TREE.
I noticed a tree quite new to me, it was of stunted growth, bearing a
fruit resembling a small russet apple, which hung in clusters at the
extremity of small branches; the skin was rough, covering a pulp that had
an acid flavour, inside of which was a large stone, and I observed a
white fluid exuded from the branches when broken. Although this was
almost a solitary tree, I have since learnt it grows in the southern
parts of the continent. As the woodcut and description given in page 82,
Volume 1 of Sir Thomas Mitchell's work on Australia, is almost identical
with this fruit, it must be indigenous to a great extent of country,
since Sir Thomas Mitchell found it in latitude 29 degrees 50 minutes
South whilst by us it was discovered in 15 degrees 40 minutes South. We
did not observe any other change in the vegetation on this point; of
birds we saw but few, chiefly parrots, some of which we shot. A coast
range of brown grassy hills prevented our seeing anything of the
interior. To seaward there was neither islet nor reef to interrupt the
blue surface of water that bounded our view in the far north-west.
Descending we embarked from a cove on the North-East side, where the
boats had been ordered to meet us; between this and one on the opposite
side there was only a narrow neck of low land. It is singular that we
should not have seen any natives, or even traces of them anywhere
excepting at Raft Point, during the whole of this cruise.
THE SLATE ISLES.
Pursuing our northerly course, we reached a small group of islands, named
from their formation, Slate Isles. Finding that all the material required
here for the chart could not be collected this evening, I desired Mr.
Helpman to go on to Brecknock harbour, to sound and examine its southern
shore the next morning, whilst Mr. Fitzmaurice and myself remained to
complete the survey hereabouts.
April 15.
We were on the top of the northern Slate Island early; a small islet with
a reef off its northern extreme, bore north a mile and a half, and a low
sandy isle, West 1/4 North about 15 miles; this was a most unwelcome
discovery, as it lay in the track of vessels approaching Brecknock
Harbour, and which Captain King must have passed very close to in the
night without being aware of it. We were fortunate in being able to
intersect our lines to the extremes of all the islands forming the north
side of Camden Sound from this station, which rendered it one of great
importance. Of the interior we saw even less than from Point Hall, and
the prospect if possible was more cheerless.
Our again meeting rocks of transition origin, led us to infer that the
soil in the neighbourhood was of a better quality, as the decomposition
of rocks of this class furnishes a much more fertile soil than sandstone
of recent formation.
Leaving the Slate Islands, we reached Entrance Isle, in Brecknock
Harbour, in time to secure observations for the rates of the
chronometers, which we found had been performing admirably; they placed
the sandy bay on the east side of Entrance Isle, in longitude 124 degrees
30 minutes East; the latitude as before given, 15 degrees 27 1/4 minutes
South.
FERTILE COUNTRY.
At this place Mr. Helpman rejoined us, having completed the examination
of the south shore of the harbour; from a high hill over it he discovered
some fine country, bearing East-South-East about eight miles. In speaking
of it, he says, "I was invited to the top of this hill by the certainty
of a good view of the interior over the low land forming the
south-eastern shore of the harbour, and most amply was I repaid for the
toil of ascending it, by feasting my eyes on a most luxuriant
well-watered country, lying at the eastern foot of a remarkable peak,
visible from Port George the Fourth. To the North-East there lay a range
of hills,* apparently of no great elevation.
(*Footnote. Macdonald Range of Lieutenant Grey, considered by him 1400
feet high.)
BRECKNOCK HARBOUR.
Part of this rich land extended to within five miles of the south-eastern
part of Brecknock Harbour." The proximity of such fertile land to this
fine port was of great importance, and induced us to consider it a great
addition to our discoveries in north-western Australia. Under this
impression, I trust the following brief description of it may not be
without its value in the eyes of some of my readers. Brecknock Harbour is
six miles deep, extending gradually from a width of one and three quarter
miles at the entrance to five at the head, and has a depth of water
varying from five to seven fathoms, with a soft muddy bottom. The few
observations on the tides our short visit afforded, make the time of
high-water, on full and change day, about half an hour before noon, when
the rise is nearly thirty feet, and the strength of stream in the
entrance nearly two knots.
LIEUTENANT GREY.
April 16.
Although very anxious to learn if they had in the ship heard anything of
Lieutenant Grey's party, still I did not like to break through my usual
rule of indulging in a thorough cleansing of men and boats, before making
our appearance on board, we therefore did not make an early start. In
clearing Roger Strait, we heard the cry of a native, who was seen with
the aid of a spy-glass, perched on a distant cliff, watching our
movements. I scarcely believed it possible to have heard his shrill voice
so far. We reached the ship, lying in Port George the Fourth, early in
the afternoon, and found on board a most welcome addition to our little
party, in the person of Lieutenant Grey. I met him again, with feelings
of the greatest satisfaction; for though none were, perhaps, fully aware
of it, a feeling of despondency as to the fate of himself and his
companions, had more than once occurred to me, which each day's delay
much increased, and which this agreeable rencounter at once effectually
removed. Poor fellow! gaunt misery had worn him to the bone; and I
believe, that in any other part of the world, not myself alone, but
Lieutenant Grey's most intimate friends, would have stared at him without
the least approach to recognition. Badly wounded, and half starved, he
did, indeed, present a melancholy contrast to the vigorous and determined
enthusiast we had parted from a few months before at the Cape, to whom
danger seemed to have a charm, distinct from success.
No sooner had we ascertained the safety of the rest of the party, than,
as might be supposed, we fell into a long and animated conversation upon
the success of the expedition. They had discovered a river, called by
them the Glenelg, and a tract of fine country, which, from Lieutenant
Grey's description, I instantly recognised as being the same Mr. Helpman
had seen from Brecknock Harbour.
A spot, sixty miles in a South-South-East direction from Hanover Bay,
indicates their furthest distance towards the interior. The rugged nature
of the country in the neighbourhood of this coast, and its vast distance
from the interior, from whence it is further removed than any other part
of the continent, justify the expression of an opinion that this was an
ill-chosen spot for the debarkation of an expedition for inland research;
though unquestionably its proximity to our East Indian possessions, would
make it, if suitable in other respects, a most valuable spot for
colonization. I shall always regret that Lieutenant Grey and his
companions had not the advantage of starting from the Fitzroy, or
exploring yet further the unknown course of the Victoria, by which I am
now convinced, a most successful attempt to reach the interior might be
made.
Alas! while we cannot but regret the prodigal sacrifices of health and
energy made to acquire such a limited knowledge of a part of the
continent, hitherto utterly unknown, we must not forget to do justice to
the perseverance which opposing obstacles could defeat, but not daunt;
and in what it did accomplish, furnished additional motives to renewed
exertion, and useful suggestions by which more fortunate followers may
reap the success deserved by, though denied, to the first adventurers.
The worn and haggard aspect of Lieutenant Grey and all his companions,
spoke of itself how severe had been the hardships they were called on to
endure: I need not say that their wants were relieved with the utmost
eagerness of frank hospitality, and that their tales of hair-breadth
escapes and moving accidents awoke all ears, and stirred in every heart.
To meet with a countryman in a foreign land, is of itself generally an
agreeable incident: the tones of one's native language, or the
reminiscences of one's earlier and happier years, which such a meeting
recalls, are sure to bestow upon it a pleasure of its own. What was it
then to meet a former fellow voyager, and a friend? To meet him after
almost despairing of his safety? and to meet him fresh from a perilous
and partially successful attempt to penetrate into the same unknown and
mysterious country, a further and more perfect acquaintance with which
was a prime object of my own personal ambition, no less than of public
duty with all engaged in our present adventure? Those who have known the
communion of sentiment and interest, which it is the tendency of one
common purpose to create among all by whom that purpose is shared, can
most readily and most perfectly understand with what deep and mutual
interest Lieutenant Grey and myself heard and recounted all that each had
done since our parting at the Cape.
Several anecdotes of his adventures confirmed my own experience, and add
weight to the opinions I have before expressed. From his description of
the tribes his party had encountered, he must have been among a people
more advanced in civilization than any we had hitherto seen upon this
coast. He found several curious figures,* images, and drawings, generally
in colours, upon the sides of caves in the sandstone rock, which,
notwithstanding their rude style, yet evince a greater degree of
advancement and intelligence than we have been able to find any traces
of: at the same time it must be remembered that no certain date
absolutely connects these works with the present generation: the dryness
of the natural walls upon which they are executed, and the absence of any
atmospheric moisture may have, and may yet preserve them for an
indefinite period, and their history read aright, may testify not the
present condition of the Australian School of Design, but the perfection
which it had formerly attained.
(*Footnote. Illustrated in Lieutenant Grey's first Volume.)
LIGHT-COLOURED NATIVES.
Lieutenant Grey too, like ourselves, had seen certain individuals in
company with the natives much lighter in colour, and widely differing in
figure and physiognomy from the savages by whom they were surrounded; and
was inclined to believe that they are descended from Dutch sailors, who
at different times, suffering shipwreck upon the coast, have intermarried
with its native inhabitants: but as no authentic records can be produced
to prove that this portion of the coast was ever visited by Dutch
navigators at all, I am still more disposed to believe that these lighter
coloured people are Malays, captured from the Trepang fishers, or perhaps
voluntarily associating with the Australian, as we know that the
Australian not unfrequently abandons his country, and his mode of life,
to visit the Indian Archipelago with them.
Before pursuing any further the train of speculation in which my thoughts
naturally enough arranged themselves, owing to this meeting with
Lieutenant Grey, it may be as well to advert to the circumstances under
which he and his party were found by Captain Wickham. It seems that on
moving into Port George the Fourth, the ship's guns were fired in order
to apprize the wanderers, if within hearing, that friends and aid were at
hand. These signals were heard on board the Lynher, and were at once
rightly understood to denote the presence of the Beagle. At that time,
however, the master of the Lynher--the schooner which Lieutenant Grey had
chartered at the Cape, was himself in no small perplexity as to the fate
of those he had transported to this lonely coast; and was now growing
exceedingly anxious at their non-appearance.
The next morning, the 9th, Captain Wickham started in the yawl for
Hanover Bay, in order to prosecute the search at the point where he knew
Lieutenant Grey's depot was to be established, and on rounding the
headland the first welcome object that met his eye was the schooner at
anchor. Captain Wickham learnt from Mr. Browse the master, that the
period for which the schooner was chartered having expired, he was only
waiting the return of the expedition from motives of humanity. The
further care of Lieutenant Grey and his comrades was at once undertaken
by Captain Wickham, by whom it was determined, owing to the shortness of
provisions on board the Beagle, to proceed to Timor on the return of the
boats, in the hope of being able to revictual there, leaving some
conspicuous record of his recent visit, with hidden letters declaratory
of his proceedings, and promising his speedy return. A party was
immediately despatched on shore, and upon the face of the sandstone cliff
they painted in characters of gigantic proportion, Beagle Observatory.
Letters South-East 52 paces. Of necessity compelled to wait for the
boats, Captain Wickham returned to the Beagle.
CAPTAIN WICKHAM'S MEETING WITH LIEUTENANT GREY.
On the morning of the 15th, Lieutenant Grey, accompanied by two of his
party, made his appearance upon the shores of Hanover Bay, after a twelve
weeks wander in the interior; during which, great hardships, fatigue, and
peril had been undergone, and much curious and valuable information
collected. Hearing of the proximity of the Beagle, he lost not a moment,
but hastened to assure Captain Wickham that the whole party was safe, and
spent the evening of the 15th--that previous to my return--among those
who sympathized with his sufferings, and heartily welcomed him once more
on board. After the first greetings had been exchanged between us,
Lieutenant Grey professed the utmost anxiety to hear whether, during our
late excursion in the boats, we had discovered the mouth of the Glenelg,
the river first seen by him on the 2nd of March. I was of course
compelled to inform him that we had found no trace of any river, although
the coast from Port George the Fourth to the bottom of Collier Bay, an
extent of nearly one hundred miles, had been examined, and with the
exception I have already noticed, too closely to admit of mistake.
AN EVENING WITH LIEUTENANT GREY.
The next afternoon I followed Lieutenant Grey round to Hanover Bay,
distant twelve miles from the Beagle's anchorage. On the passage I
noticed that the remarkable bluff, spoken of by Captain King, had been
omitted in the charts, and a low rocky point marked in its place. It was
after sunset when we reached the schooner in Hanover Bay; the greater
part of the night was devoted to an examination of Lieutenant Grey's
plans of his expedition, and the drawings with which various events in it
had been illustrated. All these were executed with a finished carefulness
one could not have expected to find in works carried on in the bush, and
under such varied circumstances of distraction and anxiety as had
followed Lieutenant Grey's footsteps: though terribly worn and ill, our
opportune arrival, and the feeling that he was among those who could
appreciate his exertions, seemed already to operate in his recovery. Upon
an old and tattered chart, that had indeed done the state some service,
we attempted to settle the probable course of the Glenelg, the knotty
question held us for some hours in hot debate; but as in a previous
paragraph, I have rendered my more deliberate opinions, I need not here
recount the varied topics discussed during that memorable evening: but it
may be readily imagined with how swift a flight one hour followed
another, while I listened with eager impatience to Lieutenant Grey's
account of a country and people till now unknown even to English
enterprise. He appears to have seen the same kind of grape-like fruit*
that we observed in King's Sound.
(*Footnote. Grey's Australia Volume 1 page 211.)
THE ENCAMPMENT.
I took the boat in the afternoon at high-water to proceed to the
encampment, which we were then able to approach within a quarter of a
mile. It was situated in the depth of a creek, into which a clear and
sparkling stream of fresh water poured its abundance: the shore was
formed of enormous granite boulders, which rendered it hardly accessible
except at high-water; and the red sandstone platform which is here the
nature of the coast, was abruptly intersected by one of those singular
valleys which give so marked and so distinctive a characteristic to
Australian geology. The separated cliffs approach to within about a
quarter of a mile of each other, and then--still preserving their
precipitous form--recede some three miles inland, in a southerly
direction, and there rejoining, make any passage from Walker's Valley* to
the interior a barely practicable feat.
(*Footnote. So named by Lieutenant Grey to commemorate the services
rendered by the surgeon of his party in finding a road from it to the
interjacent country.)
TIMOR PONIES.
The encampment consisted of a few roofless huts, placed irregularly upon
a carpet of rich grass, whereon six Timor ponies were recruiting after
the fatigues of a journey in which they appeared to have borne their full
share of privation and danger. Their marketable value was indeed but
small, and Lieutenant Grey had, therefore, determined to leave them
behind in the unrestrained enjoyment of their natural freedom.
My visit was made after the encampment had been finally abandoned, and
the thought that a little spot once tenanted by civilized man was about
to be yielded to that dreary solitude from which for a while he had
rescued it, made the pilgrimage a melancholy one. The scene itself was in
strict keeping with such thoughts--the rugged and lofty cliffs which
frown down upon the valley--the flitting shadows of the watchful eagles
soaring far over my head--and the hoarse murmurs of the tide among the
rocky masses on the beach--ail heightened the effects of a picture
engraven on my memory too deeply for time itself to efface.
While the men were preparing for embarkation I strolled with Lieutenant
Lushington up the valley, a little beyond the late encampment: the Timor
ponies were busily engaged upon the fresh grass; near the banks of a
beautiful pool in which we both enjoyed a freshwater bath, I noticed a
small coconut tree, and some other plants, which he and his companions
had benevolently endeavoured to naturalize here: they seemed healthy
enough, but I should fear the rank luxuriance of surrounding and
indigenous vegetation will render the ultimate well-doing of the
strangers exceedingly doubtful. Assisted by our boats the whole party
embarked in the early part of the afternoon, and appeared highly
delighted to find themselves again on board the schooner. I was much
impressed with the emphatic manner in which Lieutenant Lushington bid the
shore a hearty farewell. The same evening the Lynher was moved round to
Port George the Fourth--thus affording us an opportunity of welcoming all
our former fellow-voyagers once more on board the Beagle; where we spent
one of those delightful evenings, known only to those who have been long
separated from the rest of the world.
LEAVE PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH.
On the 9th we left Port George the Fourth on our return to Swan River, in
company with the Lynher, in which Lieutenant Grey and his party had
arranged to proceed to the Mauritius. A finer port than this, in some
respects, can hardly be imagined. Like Hanover Bay, over which, however,
it possesses the advantage of an easier access from the sea, it affords
safe anchorage, abundance of fresh water, plenty of fuel, and a fine
beach for the seine: but the numerous islands and reefs which skirt this
coast greatly reduce the value of both these harbours. The Master of the
Lynher told me of certain tidal phenomena remarked by him during his
protracted visit to Hanover Bay: he had noticed that the highest tides
always occurred on the fourth day after the full or change of the moon,
and that they then attained a maximum height of twenty-five feet; while
during the neaps the difference between high and low-water sometimes did
not exceed twenty-four inches!
During the short time that we were in this neighbourhood, the prevailing
winds were from South-East and to East from after midnight till noon, and
from West to North until midnight. Our progress through the day was but
slow; the wind light and most provokingly foul at West-North-West.
ISOLATED ROCK.
While standing towards a small island bearing North and by West five and
a half miles from Point Adieu, we discovered a single rock with
apparently deep water all around it, and just awash at low-water. It bore
North-West and by West three-quarters of a mile from this island, which
resembles Red Island, and Captain King's group of the Rocky Islands, in
that calcined-like appearance which has by turns given them red and brown
for a distinct appellation. In the afternoon we saw the sandbank laid
down in Captain King's chart; it appeared a white rocky islet. The night
was spent beating to the westward, between it and Red Island, against a
light breeze.
April 20.
At daylight, whilst standing to the South-West the water shoaled rapidly
though regularly from 20 to 6 fathoms, we then tacked, Red Island bearing
South-East one mile and a quarter; in standing out (north) the water
deepened suddenly and almost immediately to 15 fathoms. I imagine this
shoal to be a continuation of one laid down by Captain King, extending
two miles south from Red Island: passing the latter on our way to Port
George the Fourth we had 28 to 30 fathoms, two and a half miles from its
North-West side.
April 21.
We continued to make but little progress to the westward, scarcely
averaging more than a mile per hour: the soundings indicating that we
were still on the coral ledge that skirts the whole of this coast,
northward of Cape Leveque; on the raised parts of which are numerous
reefs of an irregular size and almost invariably trending from West to
North-West. The number of these low coral reefs already known, and the
probable number of those yet undiscovered, make this rather a dangerous
sea, and must have a tendency to lessen the value of the North-West coast
of Australia for purposes of forming settlements. In the afternoon we saw
again the reef discovered and named after the Beagle. Steering
West-North-West we passed four miles from its northern side in soundings
varying from 41 to 47 fathoms.
REMARKABLE RIPPLINGS.
April 23.
Towards the close of this day we passed through a line of very remarkable
ripplings, extending in a north and south direction, which we knew
indicated some great inequality in the bottom, but whether from deep to
shoal water was a matter of some anxiety; therefore, with leadsmen in the
chains and the men at their stations for working ship, we glided into
this streak of agitated water, where plunging once or twice she again
passed into the silent deep. We sounded ineffectually with 86 fathoms in
the ripplings; for some time before the soundings had been regular 52 and
55 fathoms fine sand, and four miles beyond it we had 146 fathoms, but
did not succeed afterwards in reaching the bottom with 200 fathoms. This
line of disturbed water, therefore, marks the edge of the bank of
soundings fronting this part of the coast, from which the nearest point,
Cape Leveque, bore South-East 195 miles.
PART FROM THE LYNHER.
The Lynher having to pursue a more westerly course, we were of necessity,
though reluctantly, obliged to part company this evening: the few
evenings we passed together at sea were rendered very pleasant and
amusing by the crews singing to each other as the vessels, side by side,
slipped stealthily through the moonlit waters.
April 24.
Still pursuing a West-South-West course, at the slow rate of forty miles
daily, our position at noon was latitude 15 degrees 40 minutes South
longitude 120 degrees 41 minutes East. During the day we passed within
fifteen miles of the Lively's reef, and from the numbers of terns and
other small seabirds, seen for the last three days, there can be little
doubt of its whereabouts being known, and that during that time we had
been in the neighbourhood of other reefs still undiscovered.
April 27.
We experienced the long rolling swell of the Southern Ocean, which, as
well as our reckoning, informed us we were rounding North-West Cape; at
the same time we began to feel a steady breeze from the South-East and
the northerly current which there prevails. As we were now approaching
the usual track of vessels bound from Australia to India, we were not
unprepared for the somewhat unusual sight of a strange sail: an object
always of some little interest, but which becomes quite an event to those
whose duty leads them into the less frequented portions of the deep.
THE TRYAL ROCKS.
The increasing trade now carried on between Sydney and the gorgeous East,
has converted the dividing sea into a beaten track; and as no further
evidence has been brought forward to confirm the reported existence of
the Tryal Rocks, asserted to lie directly in the course steered by
vessels making this passage, I cannot but adhere to Captain King's
opinion, that Tremouille Island and its outlying reefs, situated in the
same latitude as that in which the Tryal Rocks are supposed to lie, have
originated the mistake;* one, be it observed, of longitude, in which
particular the accounts of earlier navigators must always be received
with caution.
(*Footnote. Subsequent explorations have proved this to be the case.)
ANECDOTES OF MIAGO.
While our return to Swan River was thus baffled and delayed by the long
and almost unbroken continuance of foul winds, it afforded some diversion
to watch the countenance and conduct of Miago, who was as anxious as
anyone on board for the sight of his native land. He would stand gazing
steadily and in silence over the sea, and then sometimes, perceiving that
I watched him, say to me, "Miago sing, by and by northern men wind jump
up:" then would he station himself for hours at the lee-gangway, and
chant to some imaginary deity an incantation or prayer to change the
opposing wind. I could never rightly learn to whom this rude melody was
addressed; for if anyone approached him near enough to overhear the
words, he became at once silent; but there was a mournful and pathetic
air running through the strain, that rendered it by no means unpleasing;
though doubtless it owed much of its effect to the concomitant
circumstances. The rude savage--separated from all his former companions,
made at once an intimate and familiar witness of some of the wonders of
civilization, carried by his new comrades to their very country, and
brought face to face with his traditionary foes, the dreaded northern
men, and now returning to recount to his yet ruder brethren the wonders
he had witnessed--could not fail to interest the least imaginative.
Yet Miago had a decided and most inexplicable advantage over all on
board, and that in a matter especially relating to the science of
navigation: he could indicate at once and correctly the exact direction
of our wished-for harbour, when neither sun nor stars were shining to
assist him. He was tried frequently, and under very varying
circumstances, but strange as it may seem, he was invariably right. This
faculty--though somewhat analogous to one I have heard ascribed to the
natives of North America--had very much surprised me when exercised on
shore, but at sea, out of the sight of land, it seemed beyond belief, as
assuredly it is beyond explanation: but I have sometimes thought that
some such power must have been possessed by those adventurous seamen who,
long before the discovery of the compass, ventured upon distant and
hazardous voyages.
I used sometimes, as we approached the land of his nativity, to question
him upon the account he intended to give his friends of the scenes he had
witnessed, and I was quite astonished at the accuracy with which he
remembered the various places we had visited during the voyage: he seemed
to have carried the ship's track in his memory with the most careful
accuracy. His description of the ship's sailing and anchoring were most
amusing: he used to say, "Ship walk--walk--all night--hard walk--then by
and by, anchor tumble down." His manner of describing his interviews with
the "wicked northern men," was most graphic. His countenance and figure
became at once instinct with animation and energy, and no doubt he was
then influenced by feelings of baffled hatred and revenge, from having
failed in his much-vaunted determination to carry off in triumph one of
their gins. I would sometimes amuse myself by asking him how he was to
excuse himself to his friends for having failed in the premised exploit,
but the subject was evidently a very unpleasant one, and he was always
anxious to escape from it.
In spite of all Miago's evocations for a change of wind we did not see
Rottnest Island before the morning of the 25th. The ship's track on the
chart after passing the North-West Cape, resembled the figure seven, the
tail pointing towards the north. We passed along the south side of
Rottnest, and by keeping its south-western extreme shut in with the south
point, cleared the northern end of the foul ground extending
North-North-West from a cluster of high rocks called the Stragglers.
RETURN TO SWAN RIVER.
As Gage Road was not considered safe at this time of the year, the ship
was taken into Owen's anchorage under the guidance of Mr. Usborne. We
first steered for the Mew Stone, bearing south, until the leading marks
could be made out; they are the western of two flat rocks lying close off
the west side of Carnac Island and a large white sand patch on the north
side of Garden Island. The rock must be kept its own breadth open to the
eastward of the highest part of the patch; these marks lead over a sort
of bar or ridge of sand in 3 and 3 1/2 fathoms; when the water deepened
to 5 and 7 fathoms, the course was then changed to East-South-East for a
patch of low cliffs about two miles south of Fremantle, which brought us
up to Owen's anchorage in 7 and 8 fathoms, passing between Success and
Palmelia Banks.
Thus concluded our first cruise on this almost hitherto unknown part of
the continent; and looking at its results we had every reason to feel
satisfied, having appended 300 miles of new land to our geographical
store, and succeeded in an object of paramount interest in this country,
the discovery of a river. Besides the nautical information obtained, some
additions were made to the secondary objects of the voyage, by increasing
our knowledge of the natural history and indigenous productions of
North-western Australia.
CHANGES OF TEMPERATURE.
During the period of our visit we had a temperature varying from 76 to
125 degrees; the weather generally fine, with moderate south-easterly
winds, and occasionally heavy squalls from the eastward, excepting in the
month of February and part of March, when we experienced heavy falls of
rain, accompanied by fresh westerly winds. But as these changes have
already been noticed in the diary, it is needless to enter into further
detail about them here.