Prague is a far more striking and splendid city than Vienna, without its

faubourgs. The streets are broader; and it has a more cheerful and less

confined appearance than the old town of Vienna. The position of Prague too

is very romantic and picturesque, part of it lying on a mountain and part

on a plain; and it stands on the confluent of two rivers, the Mulda and the

Braun. The upper part of the city, called Oberburg, stands on a height

called Ratschin, and on this height stands a most magnificent palace and

other stately buildings. There is a beautiful panoramic view from this part

of Prague. In this part of the city too is the cathedral of St Wenzel or

Wenceslaus, who was its founder. His tomb and that of St John Nepomucene, a

favorite saint of the Bohemians, is in this church. The Cathedral is of

extreme solidity, but little ornamented, having been plundered by the

Swedes in 1648. The canopy over the shrine of St John Nepomucene has a

profusion of votive offerings appended to it. The lower part of Prague is

divided into two parts by the Mulda. The bridge across the Mulda is one of

the finest in Europe. It has twenty-four arches, its length is 1700 feet

and its breadth 35. Among several statues on this bridge is a very

remarkable one of Jesus Christ, made of bronze gilt, which cost a large sum

of money to its founder, a Jew! There is a Latin inscription on it which

explains the paradox. There stood on the same spot a wooden statue of

Christ in the XVI century. One day an opulent Jew, on passing by, made some

scoffing or contemptuous remark on it. He was overheard by some of the

people, accused of blasphemy and condemned to die; but on expressing great

contrition and offering to pay a fine to any amount, he was pardoned, on

the condition of his promising to erect a bronze statue gilt of Jesus

Christ on the same spot, at his own expense, with an inscription explaining

the reason of its construction; which promise he punctually performed.

Prague abounds in Jews. Two-thirds at least of its population are of that

persuasion. In the lower town the most striking edifices are the palace of

the Wallenstein family, descendants of the famous Wallenstein, so

distinguished in the Thirty Years war. Annexed to this Palace is a spacious

garden, which is open to the public as a promenade. It is well laid out.

There is a large aviary. This Palace covers a vast extent of ground. The

Colloredo family, who are descended from Wenceslaus, have a superb Palace

in this city; and there is a stable belonging to it, partly in marble and

of rich architecture, capable of containing thirty-six horses. No traveller

who comes to Prague should omit visiting these two Palaces of Wallenstein

and Colloredo. On the bridge over the Mulda before mentioned, is the statue

in bronze of St John Nepomucene, on the spot from whence he was thrown into

the river by his brother saint, King Wenceslaus, for refusing to divulge

the gallantries of his (Wenceslaus') wife, to whom he was confessor. A

favorite promenade on Sundays is on the _Färber Insel_ or Dyers island,

which is a small island on the Mulda. Here the young men of the town come

to dance with the _grisettes_ and milliner girls of Prague, who are

renowned for their beauty and complaisance.

The Jewish burying ground is a curiosity for a person who has never visited

the Oriental countries. The tombstones are stowed thick together. Everybody

recollects the anecdote of the ingenious method adopted by Joseph II for

squeezing a large sum of money from the Jews of Prague, by giving out that

he intended to claim this cemetery, in order to build therein a Palace. The

Jews who, like all the Orientals, have the most profound veneration for the

spot where their ancestors are buried, presented a large sum of money to

the Emperor, to induce him to renounce his design.

The _Stadt-Haus_ (Hotel de Ville) is a fine building; and the _Marktplatz_

(market square) is very spacious, and contributes much to the beauty of the

town. In the centre of it stands an ancient fountain of a dodecagonal form.

The basin is of red marble, and near it stands a large stone column, with a

statue of the Virgin, bronze gilt, on its summit. A well supplied market,

or rather fair, is carried on here every day in the week. The Theatre is a

fine building and is of immense size. I witnessd the representation of a

burlesque tragedy called _Die Belagerung von Ypsilon_ (the siege of

Ypsilon), but I could not at all comprehend the cream of the jest. Madame

Catalani, who is here, sang at this theatre one night. The theatre was

completely filled and the price of admission to the boxes and _parterre_ a

ducat. The street adjoining to the theatre was crowded by people

endeavoring to catch the sweet sounds. Immense hommage has been paid to

Catalani by the authorities here.

The balls of the _bourgeoisie_ of Prague are splendid and well attended.

The _bourgeoisie_ is very opulent in this city. There are but few residents

_Noblesse_. The expences at the inns here are rather greater than those at

Vienna, wine being a foreign commodity and beer the national beverage. My

daily expences here for lodging, dinner, supper and breakfast amounted to

four florins _Convenzions Münze_, about nine franks nearly, French money.

The country environing Prague is rich and abounding in corn; there are

likewise hops. The walls of Prague still bear the marks made by Frederic's

shot when he blockaded Prague.

PRAGUE, 7th Sept.

To-morrow I shall start for Dresden, The diligence goes off only once a

week, but I have engaged a car or rather light basket waggon drawn by two

horses (a vehicle very common in Germany) to convey me to Dresden in two

days and half. I am to pay for half of the waggon, and another traveller

will pay for the remaining half.

Before I leave Prague I must tell you that I have found out the origin of

the German phrases _Jemand den Korb zu geben (to give the basket)_, which

means a refusal of marriage. Thus when a young lady refuses an offer of

marriage on the part of her admirer, the phrase is: _Sie hat ihm den Korb

gegeben_ (_She has given him the basket_). Hitherto I have not met with any

one who could explain to me satisfactorily the origin of so singular a

phrase; but on reading lately a volume of the _Volksmährchen_ (_Popular

tales_) I found not only the derivation of this phrase, but also that of

the name of the city of Prague. Both are connected in the same story, and

both concern the history of Prague. The story is as follows.

Libussa, Duchess of Bohemia, had three lovers, two of whom were not

remarkably intelligent, but the third possessed a great deal of talent and

was her favorite. She was much importuned by the rival suitors. She

appeared before them one day with a basket filled with plums in her hand;

and said she would give her hand in marriage to whoever of them should

guess the following arithmetical riddle. She said: "One of you shall take

half the plums that are in this basket, and one over: another shall take

half of what remains, and one over: the third shall take half of what still

remains and three over, and then all the plums will have been taken. Now

tell me how many plums there are in the basket." Her favorite was the only

one who could guess the number of plums which was _thirty_. To him

therefore she gave her hand and the plums, and to the other suitors the

empty basket. Hence the phrase. The solution of the question is as follows:

A takes half of the plums in the basket (30) and one

over . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 + 1 = 16

B half of what remained (14) and one over . . . . . 7 + 1 = 8

C half of what remained (6) and three over . . . . . 3 + 3 = 6

---

Total 30

Now with regard to the origin of the city of Prague. The former residence

was much too small, and Libussa directed her workmen to build a town on the

spot, where they should find at midday a man making the _best use of his

teeth_. They began their research and one day at that hour discovered a

carpenter sawing a block of wood. It struck them that this laborious man

was making a better use of his teeth (viz., teeth of his saw) than the mere

feeder and they judged that this ought to be the place where the town

should be built. They therefore proceeded to trace with a plough the

circumference of the town. On asking the carpenter what he was about to

make with the block he was sawing, he said " A threshold for a door," which

is called _Prah_ or _Praha_ in the Bohemian language and Libussa gave to

the city the name of _Praha_ or _Prag_.

BERLIN, 24th Sept.

Berlin has a splendid and cheerful appearance, with fine broad streets,

superb white buildings and Palaces, for the most part in the Grecian taste;

it has quite the appearance in short of an Italian city. Nearly all the

streets are at right angles; they are kept very clean and the shops make a

brilliant display. I felt so much pain in my legs, from the effect of my

pedestrian journey, that I was obliged to remain in my chamber one entire

day. There is a very good _table d'hôte_ at my bin for twelve _Groschen_.

Wine is paid for extra, and at the rate of from 12 to 18 _Groschen_ the

bottle. The sort usually drunk here is the Medoc. The prices of articles of

prune necessity are dearer in Berlin than either at Dresden or Vienna;

particularly the article of washing, which is dearer than in any country I

have yet visited.

The next morning I began my rambles, and directed my course to the favorite

and fashionable promenade of the _beau monde_, at all hours of the day, I

mean in the fine street or alley _Unter den Linden_, so called from it

being planted with lime trees. There is a range of elegant buildings on

each side, and at the end, near the _Thier Garten_ (Park), is a superb gate

called the _Brandenburger Thor_ in the shape of a triumphal arch ornamented

with a statue of Peace, with an olive branch in her hand, standing on a car

drawn by four horses abreast, the whole groupe being of bronze and of

exquisite workmanship. The four horses are imitated from the Corinthian

horses at Venice and yield to them in nothing but antiquity. Indeed they

have a much more pleasing and striking effect, in being thus attached to a

car, than standing by themselves, as the Venetian ones do, on the top of

the façade of a church. This _Brandenburger Thor_ is constructed after the

model of the Propylaeum of Athens.

The Opera House, a building in the Grecian taste erected by Frederic the

Great with the inscription _Apollini et Musis_, and after that the Academy

of the Fine Arts engaged my attention. Both these buildings are remarkable,

and they are near the _Linden_. The old town is much intersected by canals

communicating with the Spree which divides it. I call it the old town, to

distinguish it from the quarter composed of streets of recent construction

between the former _enceinte_ of the town and the Brandenburger Thor. The

Hotel of the Invalides, a ponderous building, bears the following

inscription: _Laesis non victis_. The Bank and the Arsenal next engaged my

attention, as also a Guard House of recent construction in the shape of a

Doric temple. The Royal Palace is an immense building, partly in the Gothic

and partly in the Grecian style. It is very heavy but imposing. The

interior of this Palace is royally fitted up, except the little room

occupied by the great Frederic, which is left in the same state as when he

occupied it; and you know he was not fond of superfluous ornament. In the

green before the Palace stands the statue of the Prince of Anhalt Dessau,

the founder of the Prussian Infantry system, and at a short distance from

this, on the _Lange Brücke,_ stands the colossal equestrian statue in

bronze of the Great Elector.

The _Königstrasse_ is the principal street and a very fine one it is; next

to it in point of beauty is the _Französische_ _Strasse_. The _Wilhelm

Platz_ is adorned with the statues in marble of Schwerin, Seidlitz, Keith,

Winterfeld, and Ziethen. But I cannot enumerate all the splendid public

establishments and fine things to be seen in this beautiful city. The most

striking church is that of St Hedwig. I call it the most striking from its

resemblance to the Pantheon at Rome. The Cathedral is perhaps a finer

building. 'Tis in this last that the Electoral and Royal remains are

deposited.

The streets 'here swarm with military, and indeed the profession of arms

seems to have too much sway in the Prussian dominions. The subalterns and

young men of the Prussian Army are said to have republican sentiments, and

they, in common with all the burghers, desire a constitution. It galls them

to see one enjoyed by the Bavarians, whom they affect to look upon as

inferior to them in intelligence, and that it should be refused to them.

Most of the nobility and the greater part of the General and field officers

are however inveterate aristocrats.

You have heard, I dare say, of the attempt made by some officers among the

nobility to exclude from the service, after the peace, those officers who

were not noble. When it is considered that their best and most zealous

officers sprung from the burghers, and that Prussia, when abandoned by her

King and nobles, was saved from permanent subjection only by the

unparalleled exertions of her burghers and peasantry, one is shocked at

such ingratitude and absurdity. But the officers of the Royal Guard went so

far as to draw up a petition to the King, requesting him to dismiss all the

officers of the corps who were not noble, and Blucher was applied to to

present this petition to the King. Blucher read the paper and ordered all

the officers to assemble on the parade and thus addressed them: "Gentlemen,

I have received your paper and read its contents with the utmost

astonishment. All the remarks that I shall permit myself to make on the

subject of this petition, are, that it makes me ashamed of being myself a

noble." He then tore the petition in pieces and dismissed them.

I have been once at the theatre. _Lodoiska_ was performed. I saw a number

of fine women in the boxes. Formerly gallantry and pleasure were the order

of the day at Berlin; but now, the Court assuming the exterior of rigid

morality and strictly exercised religious devotion, mystic cant and

dullness is the order of the day. The death of the Queen of Prussia threw a

great damp over the amusements of the Court. At Charlottenburg, which is a

short distance from Berlin, in the grounds there, they point out to you her

favourite spots. She was a most amiable Princess, and united to great

personal beauty so much grace and fascination and so many good qualities

that she was beloved by all, and the breath of calumny never ventured to

assail her.

The alley _Unter den Linden_ in the evening presents a great assemblage of

Cyprian nymphs, who promenade up and down; they dress well and are

perfectly well behaved. There is a superb establishment of this kind at

Berlin, which all strangers should visit out of curiosity. It is not

indispensably necessary to sacrifice to the Goddess whose worship is

carried on there; but you may limit yourself to admire the temple, call for

refreshments and contemplate the priestesses.

There is the utmost moral and political freedom at Berlin, and tho' the

Government is despotic in form, freedom of speech is allowed. An army of

200,000 men admirably disciplined and armed, of these a garrison of 15,000

men in Berlin and as many at Potsdam, are quite sufficient to keep in check

all attempts to put political theories and speculations into practice.

Indeed, it would be very difficult to excite a revolt; the various German

governments are carried on very paternally and the government is scarcely

felt; habits of obedience have taken deep root among the people, and a

German peasant as long as he gets enough to eat and drink, does not

conceive himself unhappy, or thinks of a change. I could not help laughing

the other day, at a little village near Berlin, when I heard some peasants

talking of Napoleon; one of them, who seemed to have some partiality for

him, exclaimed, meaning to blame him for leaving Elba: _Aber warum verliess

er seine Insel? Er hatte doch zu essen und trinken so viel er wolte_ (Why

did he leave Elba? He had surely plenty to eat and drink). This good

peasant could not conceive that a man blessed with these comforts should

like to change his situation or run any risks to do so.

French as well as German is commonly spoken in Berlin, and I am glad to see

that the prejudice against the French is wearing off. If the French and

Prussians could understand one another, and knew their own interests, or if

the French had a liberal national Government, I mean, one more identified

with the interests of the people than the present one is, what advantage

might not rise therefrom? They are natural allies, and united they might be

able effectually to humble the overbearing insolence and political

coxcombry of the Czar, shake to its centre the systematic despotism and

light-fearing leader of Austria, and keep in check the commercial

greediness, monopolizing spirit and Tory arrogance of England. The German

political writers duly appreciate the illiberal policy of England towards

the continental nations, by which she invariably helps to crush liberty on

the Continent in the hopes of paralysing their energies and industry, in

order to compel them to buy English manufactures, and in fine to make them

dependent on England for every article of consumption. England, ever since

the beginning of the reign of George III to the present day, has been

always ready to lend a hand to crush liberty, to perpetuate abuses and to

rivet the fetters of monarchial, feudal and ecclesiastical tyranny.

These are facts and cannot be denied. The English people have been taxed to

the last farthing to support a war of privileges against Freedom; and

Europe is in consequence prostrate at the feet of an unprincipled

coalition, thro' England's arms and England's gold; and then an English

minister, and his vile hireling journals, tell you that the continental

nations are not ripe for and do not deserve liberty. Even the Pope and

Grand Turk, both so much dreaded by our pious ancestors, have been

supported, caressed and subsidized, in order to help to put down all

efforts made to obtain rational liberty, which the courtiers always affect

to stigmatize with the name of "Jacobinism," while a number of needy

individual have enriched themselves by the public plunder and byaiding and

abetting the system, all _novi homines_, men who, had there been more to

gain on the other side than by espousing Toryism, would not have been

backward; men who are Jacobins in the real sense of the word, however they

cloak themselves under the specious names of Church and King men; upholders

of Pitt and his system, for which they affect a veneration they are far

from really feeling; men, in fact, whose political scruples of whatever

nature they be, would soon melt away.

DRESDEN, 5th October.

I have been fortunate in getting into very comfortable lodgings, having two

rooms and as much firing as I chuse for eight _Reichsthalers_ per month.

Coffee is made for me at home in the morning, and I generally dine and sup

at a _restaurant_ close by near the bridge. The _Platz_ in the Neustadt is

close to my lodgings, and being very large and well paved and lined with

trees, it affords a very agreeable promenade. Rows of elegant houses line

the sides of this Plata, among which the _Stadthaus_ is particularly

remarkable. The famous _Japan Palace_, as it is called, is also in the

_Neustadt_, and but a short distance from the _Platz_. The gardens of Count

Marcolini afford also a pleasant promenade; but by far the most agreeable

walk, in my opinion, is on the _Zwinger_, a sort of terrace on the left

bank of the Elbe in the old town, adjoining the palace and gardens of Count

Bruhl. From this place you have a noble view of a long reach of the Elbe.

It is besides the favorite promenade of the ladies. On the _Zwinger_ too is

a building containing a fine collection of paintings. Here are _cafés_

likewise and a _restaurant_. The evening promenades are in the gardens of

the _Linkischer Bad_ (Bath of Link) on the banks of the Elbe, where there

is a summer theatre. This is the favourite resort of the _bourgeoisie_ on

Sundays and _jours de fête; goûters_ and supper parties are formed here and

very good music is heard. The Elbe bridge is of beautiful structure, and

there is a good regulation with respect to those who pass over this bridge;

which is that one side of the bridge is reserved for those going from the

new to the old town, and the other side for those going from the old to the

new town, and if you attempt to go on the wrong side you are stopped by a

sentry, so that there is no jostling nor lounging on this bridge. An arch

of this bridge was blown up by Marshal Davoust in order to arrest the

progress of the Russians, and a great deal of management was necessary to

effectuate it, for the worthy Saxons have a great veneration for this

bridge, and in order to inforce the execution of this resolution on the

part of the Marshal, the personal order of the King and the employment of

Saxon troops were necessary. It has been rebuilt since, and no one would

know that the arch had ever been blown up, but from the extreme whiteness

of the new arch, contrasting with the darker color of the old ones.

In the old town or Dresden proper, the finest buildings are: the Catholic

church, standing near the bridge, an edifice yielding in beauty but to few

in Italy and to none in other countries. Here you hear excellent music

during the church service; and the King and Royal family, all of whom are

Catholics, attend constantly. The Royal Palace is very near the church and

not far from it is the theatre. Saxony being a Lutheran country, the public

exercise of the Catholic religion was not permitted until Napoleon's time,

when he proposed an arrangement to permit to the King and all other

Catholics the public celebration of their religion, which proposition was

acceded to with universal approbation on the part of the Protestants, and

now the Host is frequently displayed in the streets. There are however but

few Catholics in Dresden among the natives. So great is the respect for

usages and customs in Germany, that the Electors of Saxony, on going over

to Catholicism, never thought even of requesting the indulgence of

exercising their religion publicly, and the granting it has produced no

evil consequence, liberalism and the most unreserved toleration in matters

of religion being the order of the day.

The Royal Palace is a very fine and extensive building and the interior is

well worth seeing, particularly the superb _Riesen-Saal_ where Augustus II

used to give his magnificent _fêtes_. One of the last and most brilliant

_fêtes_ given here was that given by the King of Saxony to the Emperor

Napoleon just before the Russian campaign, at which the Emperor and Empress

of Austria and most of the Sovereigns of Germany assisted, to do hommage to

the great Conqueror.

The _Schloss-gasse_ or Castle Street leads from the Palace into the _Markt

Platz_ where the markets and fairs are held. In this place, in the

_Schloss-gasse_ and in another street parallel to it, that leads from the

porcelain Manufactory to the _Grosser Platz_ (_Grande Place_), are the

finest shops and greatest display of wealth. On the _Grosser Platz_ stands

the _Frauen-Kirche_, a superb Protestant church, and which may be

considered as the cathedral church of Dresden. The _Platz_ is large. There

is great cleanliness in all the streets of Dresden, and the houses are well

built and uniform; but there are few other very prominent edifices except

those I have mentioned. On going outside the town by the gate of Pirna

stands, almost immediately on the right, on turning down a road, the

Gardens and Palace of Prince Anthony. Leaving this on your right and

proceeding along the _chaussée_ or high road which is nearly parallel to

the river, at the distance of three-quarters mile from the Gate, stands the

Palace and Gardens called _Der Grosse Garten_ (grand garden), which you

leave on your right, if you continue your route on the _chaussée_ towards

Pirna. I have not yet visited the _Grosse Garten_. There is likewise a fine

promenade on the banks of the Elbe, but quite in an opposite direction to

the Pirna gate, for to arrive at it from this gate, you must traverse the

Pirna street and _Grosser Platz_; and on arrival near the bridge direct

your course to the left, which will lead you out of one of the gates into

an immensely long avenue of elm trees parallel to the river which forms the

promenade.

DRESDEN, Oct. 10th.

I have been to see the Palace and grounds of the _Grosser Garten_. The

garden and park, for it unites both, is of great extent, and beautifully

laid out; but a number of fine trees have been knocked down and mutilated

by cannon shot during the battle of Dresden in 1818, when this garden was

occupied by the Allied troops and exposed to a heavy fire of fifty pieces

of cannon, from a battery erected by Napoleon on the opposite side of the

river, which completely commanded and enfiladed the whole range of the

garden. How the Palace itself escaped being knocked to pieces is wonderful;

but I suppose Napoleon must have given orders to spare it as much as

possible. This Palace is of beautiful structure and in the style of an

Italian villa; statues of the twelve Caesars and bas-reliefs adorn the

exterior. The columns and pilasters are of the Corinthian order. As for the

interior, it is unfurnished, and has been so since the Seven Years' war,

when it was plundered by the enemy, and has never since been inhabited by

the Electoral family. There is a superb rectangular basin of water in this

garden. These gardens are delightfully laid out; why they are not more

frequented I cannot conceive, but I have hitherto met with very few people

there, tho' they are open to all the world. They will form my morning's

promenade, for I prefer solitude to a crowd in a morning walk. But one of

the gardeners here tells me that on Sunday evening there is generally a

good deal of company, who come to listen to the music which is played in a

building fitted up for the purpose at one side of the garden. Wine, coffee,

beer and other refreshments are to be had; but beer is the favorite

beverage. Smoking is universal among the young men; the most ardent

admirers of the fair sex never forget their pipe. During the courtship the

surest sign that the fair one does not intend to _give_ her lover _the

basket_ is when she presents him with a bag to hold his tobacco. Her

consent is implied thereby.

During the battle of Dresden, the slaughter in this garden was immense, and

the Allies were finally driven out of it. The gardener related to me an

affecting story of a young lady of Dresden, whose lover was killed in this

battle and buried in the _Grosser Garten_. She has taken it so much to

heart that she comes here three or four times in the week to visit this

grave and strew flowers over it. She remains for some time absorbed in

silent meditation and then withdraws. She has a settled melancholy, but it

has not yet affected her understanding.

DRESDEN, Oct. 15th.

I met with my old friend, Sir W.I., who was travelling to Berlin, with the

idea of passing the winter there and of proceeding in the summer to Moscow.

Thro' the interests of my friends, Col. D------ and Baron de F------ I have

been ballotted for and admitted a member of a club or society here called

the _Ressource_. It is held in a large house on the _Markt Platz_, and is

indeed a most agreeable resource to all foreigners; for 'tis in this

society that they are likely to meet and form acquaintance with the

_noblesse_, principal _bourgeoisie_ and _litterati_. It is conducted on the

most liberal scale and not confined to those of birth and fortune. Good

character, polite behaviour and litterary requirements will ensure

admittance to a candidate. This society consists of members and honorary

members; among the honorary members are foreigners and others whose stay in

Dresden is short; but whoever remains for more than one year must cease to

be an honorary member and must be ballotted for in order to become a

permanent member, and should he be blackballed he ceases to belong to the

society altogether. This is a very good regulation. A year is a sufficient

time of proof for the character and conduct of a person, and should he

during this interval prove himself obnoxious to the members of the society,

they can at its expiration exclude him for ever afterwards.

No enquiry is made as to the character and conduct of a person who is

admitted as an honorary member: it is sufficient that he be recommended by

a permanent member, which is deemed a sufficient guarantee for his

respectability. In this society there are dining rooms, billiard rooms,

card rooms, a large reading room. Here too is a small but well chosen

library and three or four newspapers in every European language; all the

German newspapers and reviews and the principal periodical works in the

German, French, English and Italian languages. The English papers taken in

here are the _Times, Courier_ and _Chronicle_. Of the French, the

_Moniteur, Journal des Débats, Constitutionel, Journal du Commerce, Gazette

de France_ and _Gazette de Lausanne_, and of the Italian the _Gazette di

Milano, di Venezia, di Firenze_ and _di Lugano_. Every German newspaper is,

I believe, to be found here. The Society lay in their stock of wine, which

is of the best quality; good cooks and servants are kept. Dinners go

forward from one to three. You dine _à la carte_ and pay the amount of what

you call for to the waiters. Coffee, liqueurs and all sorts of refreshments

are likewise to be had. Supper, likewise _à la carte_, goes forward between

nine and eleven. The evening before supper may be employed, if you chuse,

in cards, billiards, or reading. Very pleasant and useful acquaintances are

made at the _Ressource_, since if a foreigner renders himself agreeable to

the gentlemen who frequent this society, they generally propose taking him

to their houses and introducing him to their families. After an

introduction, you may go at any hour of the evening you please: but morning

visits are not much in fashion, since the _toilette_ is seldom made till

after dinner, which is always early in Germany. There is no getting dinner

after three o'clock in any part of Dresden. Besides the _Ressource_ there

are several other Clubs here, such as the _Harmonic_ and others. The public

balls are given at the _Hôtel de Pologne_ twice a week, viz., one for the

_Noblesse_ and one for the _Bourgeoisie_. None of the female _Bourgeoisie_

are admitted to the balls and societies of the _Noblesse_, and only such of

the males as occupy posts or employments at Court or under Government such

as _Königs-rath_, _Hof-rath_, or officers of the Army. It is therefore

usual, when the Sovereign wishes to introduce a person of merit among the

_Bourgeoisie_ into the upper circles, that he gives him the title of _Rath_

or Counsellor; but this priviledge of being presentable at Court does not

extend to their wives and daughters. All the Military officers, from

whatever class of life they spring, have introduction _de jure_ into the

balls and societies of the _Noblesse_, and are always in uniform. But when

they attend the balls of the _Bourgeoisie_, it is the etiquette for them to

wear plain clothes: at the balls of the _Bourgeoisie_, therefore, not an

uniform is to be seen. I observed by far the prettiest women at the balls

of the _Bourgeoisie_, and very many are to be found there who in education

and accomplishments fully equal those of the _Noblesse_, and this is no

small merit, for the women in Saxony of the higher classes are extremely

well educated; most of them are proficient in music and are versed in

French and Italian litterature. They seem amiable and goodnatured and by no

means _minaudières_, as Lady Mary Wortley Montague has rather unjustly

termed them; for they appear to me to be the most frank, artless creatures

I ever beheld, and to have no sort of _minauderie_ or _coquetterie_ about

them. Beauty is the appanage of the Saxon women, hence the proverb in

rhyme:

Darauf bin ich gegangen nach Sachsen,

Wo die schönen Mädchen auf den Baümen wachsen.

In English:

Behold me landed now on Saxon ground,

Where lovely damsels on the trees are found.

A taste for litterature is indeed general throughout the whole nation; and

this city is considered as the Athens of Germany.

DRESDEN, Nov. 8th.

I have been at the theatre and witnessed the representation of a tragedy

called _Die Schuld_, written by Adolphus Müllner. It is a most interesting

piece, and the novelty of it has made a striking impression on me. It is

written in the eight-footed trochaic metre, similar to that in which the

Spanish tragedies are written. It hinges on a prophecy made by a Gipsey, in

which the person to whom the prophecy is made, in endeavoring to avert it,

hastens its accomplishment. The piece is full of interest and the

versification harmonious. I have been twice at the Italian opera, where I

saw the _Gazza Ladra_ and _Il Matrimonio secreto_. I came here with the

idea of giving myself up entirely to the study of the German language; but

such is the beauty of the country environing Dresden that, though winter

has commenced I employ the greatest part of the day in long walks. For

instance I have been to Pillnitz, which is on the right bank of the Elbe

about seven miles from Dresden, ascending the river. The road is on the

bank of the river the whole way. The Palace at Pillnitz is vast and well

built. During a part of the year the Royal family reside there. Pillnitz

will remain "damn'd to everlasting fame" as the place where the famous

treaty was signed, the object of which was to put down the French

Revolution, which Mr Pitt and the British ministry knew of and sanctioned,

tho' they pretended ignorance of it and professed to have no desire to

interfere with the affairs of France.

Every thing pleases me at Dresden except the beds. I wish it were the

fashion to use blankets and _édredons_ for the upper covering instead of

the _lits de plumes_; for they are too heavy and promote rather too intense

a perspiration, and if you become impatient of the heat, and throw them off

you catch an intense cold. You know how partial I am to the Germans, and

can even put up with their eternal smoking, tho' no smoker myself, but to

their beds I shall never be reconciled. A German bed is as follows: a

_paillasse_, over that a mattress, then a featherbed with a sheet fastened

to it, and over that again another featherbed with a sheet fastened to it;

and thus you lie between two featherbeds; but these are not always of

sufficient length, and you are often obliged to coil up your legs or be

exposed to have them frozen by their extending beyond the featherbeds; for

the cold is very great during the winter.

The more I see of the people here, the more I like them. The national

character of the Germans is integrity, tho' sometimes cloaked under a rough

exterior as in Bavaria and Austria; but here in Saxony it is combined with

a suavity of manners that is very striking, for the Saxons are the Tuscans

of Germany in point of politeness, and they are far more accomplished

because they take more pains in cultivating their minds.

A savant in Italy is a man who writes a volume about a coin, filled with

hypotheses, when, with all his learning forced into the service, he proves

nothing; and this very man is probably ignorant in the extreme of modern

political history, and that of his own times, and has more pedantry than

taste. Such a man is often however in Italy termed a _Portento_, but in

Dresden and in most of the capitals of Germany where there are so many of

science and deep research, a man must not only be well read in antiquities,

but also well versed in political economy and in analysis before he can

venture to give a work to the public. Latin quotations, unsupported by

reason and philosophical argument will avail him nothing, for the German is

a terrible _Erforscher_ and wishes to know the _what_, the _how_ and the

_when_ of every thing; besides an Italian _savant_ is seldom versed in any

other tongue than his own and the Latin, with perhaps a slight knowledge of

French; whereas in Germany it is not only very common to find a knowledge

of French, English, Italian, Latin and Greek united in the same person, but

very many add Hebrew, Arabic and even Sanscrit to their stock of Philology.

As a specimen for instance of German industry, I have seen, at the club of

the _Ressource_, odes on the Peace in thirty-six different languages, and

all of them written by native Saxons. This shows to what an extent

philology is cultivated in Germany; indeed, it is quite a passion and a

very useful one it is. I know that many people regard it as a loss of time,

and say that you acquire only new words, and no new ideas; but I deny this.

I maintain that every new language learned gives you new ideas, as it puts

you at once more _au fait_ of the manners and customs of the people, which

can only be thoroughly learned by reading popular authors in their original

language: for there are several authors of the merit of whose style it is

impossible to form an adequate idea in a translation, however correct and

excellent it be. Indeed I wonder that the study of the German language is

not more attended to in England, France, and Italy; but to the English,

methinks, it is indispensable. All the customs and manners of Europe are

taken from the German; all modern Europe bears the Teutonic stamp. We are

all the descendants of the Teutonic hordes who subjugated the Roman Empire

and changed the face of Europe; 'tis they who have given and laid down the

grand and distinguishing feature between modern Europe and ancient Europe

and Asia: I mean the respect paid to women. To what nation, I say, is due

the chivalrous respect to women which is the surest sign of civilization,

and which was unknown to the ancient Greeks and Romans, except to the

Germans, who even in their most uncivilized state paid such veneration to

their women as to consult them as oracles on all occasions and to admit

them to their councils? Tacitus particularly mentions this; and speaking of

the Germans of his time, he says, "They have an idea that there is

something divine about a woman."[126] It is this feeling, handed down to us

from our Teutonic ancestors, that contributes mainly to make the European

so superior to all the Asiatic nations, where woman still remains a

degraded being, and 'tis this feeling that gives to us the palm above all

Greek and Roman glory. What are the modern European nations, the English,

French, Italians, Switzers, even Spanish and Portuguese, but the

descendants of these warlike Teutonic tribes who swept away the effeminate

Romans from the face of the earth? and do we not see the Teutonic policy

and usages, defective and degenerated as they sometimes are, the best

safeguard of liberty against the insidious interpretation of the Roman law,

which is founded on the pretended superiority of one nation, the inferred

inferiority of all the rest?

With regard to theatricals, I have witnessed the representation of a

tragedy, lately published, called _Sappho_, by a young poet of the name of

Grillparzer. This tragedy is strictly on the Greek model. Its versification

in iambics is so beautiful that it is regarded as the triumph of the

_Classics_ over the _Romantics_; and by this piece Grillparzer has proved

the universality of his genius; for he wrote a short time ago a dramatic

piece in the _romantic_ style and in the eight rhymed trochaic metre called

_die Anhfrau_ (the ancestress) where supernatural agency is introduced.

This I have read; it is a piece full of interest; still it was thought too

_outré_ by the _Classiker_. It was supposed that this was the peculiar

style of the author, and that he adopted it from inability to compose in

the classic taste, when behold! by way of proving the contrary, he has

given us a drama simple in its plot, where all the unities are preserved,

and where the subject one would think was too well known to produce much

interest; he has given, I say, to this piece (Sappho), from the extreme

harmony of its versification and the pathos of the sentiments expressed

therein, an effect which I doubt any tragedy of Euripides or Sophocles

surpasses. The character of Sappho and her passion for Phaon; his

indifference to her and attachment to the young Melitta, an attendant and

slave of Sappho's, and Sappho throwing herself into the sea after uniting

Phaon and Melitta, constitute the plot of the drama. But simple as the

plot, and old as the story is, it excites the greatest interest, and never

fails to draw tears from the audience. What can be more artless and

pathetic, for instance, than these lines of the young Melitta when she

regrets her expatriatioa:

Kein Busen schlägt mlr bier in diesem Lande,

Und meine Freunden wohnen weit von hier.

In English:

No bosom beats for me in this strange land,

And far from here my friends and parents dwell.

I have no doubt that some of these days _Sappho_ will be translated into

the idiom of modern Greece and acted in that country. The actress, who did

the part of Sappho, gave it full effect, and the part of the young Melitta

was fairly performed; but I did not approve of the acting of the performer

who played Phaon. He overstepped the modesty of nature and the intention of

the author; for he was in his gesture and manner grossly rude and insolent

to poor Sappho, whereas, tho' his love to Melitta was paramount, he ought

to have shown no ordinary struggle in stifling his gratitude to his

benefactress Sappho.

I admire the German word _Gebieterinn_ (mistress). It is majestic and

harmonious, and the only word, in any modern language that I know of,

poetic enough to render aptly the Greek word [Greek: Despoina].

DRESDEN, Decr. 1st.

I have been to visit the famous Gallery of paintings here; but you must not

expect from me a description. I shall send you a catalogue. It would be

endless to describe the various _chefs-d'oeuvre_ which are contained in

this valuable collection. Dresden has always been considered as the

Florence of Germany and has always been renowned for its Gallery of

paintings; hence the almost innate taste of the Saxons for the _Beaux Arts_

and the great encouragement given to them at all tunes by this Government.

It is here and at Meissen that the best German is thought to be spoken,

tho' Hanover disputes this prerogative with Dresden.

I have been to see the antiquities and curiosities of the _Japanischer

Palast_ (Palace of Japan), as it is called. In this Palace is a quantity of

ancient armour and the most superb collection of porcelain I believe in

Europe. The collection of precious stones is also immense; and I never in

my life saw such a profusion of diamonds, emeralds, turquoises, sapphirs,

amethysts and topazes. In this Museum are three statues found in

Herculaneum on its first discovery or excavation, viz., an Athlete, an

Esculapius, and a Venus. Here too, and from this circumstance, the Palace

takes its name, is a collection of Japanese antiquities and ornaments,

lacker work in gold and silver, which is unique in the world. From the

Royal Library, a foreigner, on being recommended, may have at his own house

all such books to read as can be replaced if lost or spoiled; but the

manuscripts and scarce and valuable editions are not permitted to be taken

out of the Library. Any person once admitted on recommendation may go to

read in this Library at stated hours and may consult any book or manuscript

he pleases on applying to the librarian.

A person fond of music will be in a continual state of enjoyment at

Dresden. Besides the fine music in the Royal Chapel, the band of the King's

Guard is composed of first rate musicians, who attend regularly at Guard

mounting and play for an hour together. There is also a band of music every

evening during the summer months that plays in the gardens of the

_Linkischer Bad_. Then there are various other places of recreation and

amusement, at all of which musicians are in attendance; for a Saxon cannot

enjoy his repast or his pipe without music and good music too to facilitate

his digestion. There is a custom in Dresden that on the occasion of the

death of a person the young choristers of the Cathedral are sent for to

sing hymns, standing in a semi-circle round the door of the house of the

defunct. These choristers are all dressed in black and their style of

singing is melodious, solemn and impressive.

Smoking is so prevalent here and in all parts of Germany that if you wish

to denote one of the male sex, _smoker_ would be quite a synonymous word.

Such is the passion for this enjoyment that even at the balls the young

men, the moment they have finished the waltz, quit the hands of their

partners and rush into another room in order to smoke; nor would the beauty

of Venus nor the wit of Minerva be powerful enough to restrain the young

German from giving way to his darling practise. Smoking tobacco has I think

this visible effect, that it serves to calm all tumultuous passions, and

what confirms me in this idea is, that most young Germans, in commencing

life as adults, are full of enthusiastic and even exaggerated notions of

liberty and equality. They are romantic to a degree that is difficult to be

conceived, and seem to be restrained by no selfish or worldly ideas. This

you would suppose would tend to render them rather turbulent subjects,

under an autocratical government; but all this _Schwärmerey_ evaporates

literally in smoke: they take to their pipe, and by degrees the fumes of

tobacco cause all these lofty ideas to dissipate: the pipe becomes more and

more necessary to their existence, and consoles them for their wrongs real

or imaginary; and in three or four years they sit down contentedly to their

several occupations, as strait-forward, painstaking, plodding men, quite

satisfied to follow the routine chalked out for them, and either totally

forget all ambitious views, or become too indolent to make any sacrifice to

obtain them, and this _virtue comes from tobacco_!! The German Hippogriff

becomes an Ox, dull and domestic, and treads out the corn placed before

him, content to have his share thereof in peace and quietness.

The German Governments, which are mild and paternal, are fully aware of

this and allow the utmost liberty of speech; well knowing that, thanks to

that friend and ally of Legitimacy, tobacco, the romantic visionary and

somewhat refractory youth will subside into a tranquil _ganz alltäglicher

Mann_ and become totally averse to any innovation which demands the

sacrifice of repose.

The pipe which has this sedative effect on political effervescence, has a

still stronger similar effect, it is said, on the passion of love; hence

the German husbands are proverbially sluggish. But the ladies, none of whom

smoke, preserve their romanticity during their whole lives, and would, if

they had their choice, give their hands to foreigners, who are more

attentive to them than their own countrymen.

The young ladies here are, 'tis said, extremely romantic in their ideas of

love and capable of the strongest attachment. They think that any thing

should be pardoned to sincere passion. It has been related to me that some

time ago a young man, who was devotedly attached to a girl, on the father

refusing his consent to the marriage, stabbed the girl and then himself. An

immense number of young ladies attended their funeral, to throw flowers

over the grave of the two lovers. Assuredly the young man was only a

noviciate in smoking.

Everybody must, I think, admire the Saxon women. They are in general

handsome and have fine shapes; they are warm hearted and affectionate; and

they are almost universally well educated. Indeed the whole Saxon people

are so amiable that foreigners find themselves so happy here that they are

unwilling to quit the country. Very many form matrimonial attachments. In

short, this people fully merit the epithet a celebrated English traveller

(Sherlock)[127] has bestowed on them when he called them a _herrliches

Volk_.

DRESDEN, Jan. 8d, 1819.

I have made an excursion to Meissen which lies on the same bank of the

river with the old town of Dresden at a distance of twelve miles. As there

is no road on the left bank of the river to Meissen, you must cross the

river twice to arrive at it, viz., once at Neustadt and once at Meissen,

the road being on the right bank. I put up at the _Hirsch_ (Stag), a very

comfortable inn. I went to Meissen with a view of seeing the Russian

contingent pass the Elbe on their return from France, which has been

evacuated in consequence of the arrangement at Aix-la-Chapelle. They

appeared a fine body of men, clothed _à la française_ and seemed in high

spirits. They seem to have imbibed liberal ideas during their residence in

France, for some of the officers who dined at the inn at Meissen spoke very

freely on passing events.

The return of the Saxon contingent is expected in Dresden in a day or two,

and there will no doubt be a great deal of rejoicing among the military and

their relations to meet their old comrades and friends; and potent

libations of _Doppel Bier_ will no doubt be made. Meissen is said to be

famous for the beauty of its women and the few that I saw in the streets

did not contradict this reputation.

DRESDEN, Jany. 5th, 1819.

We have had several balls here. Waltzing is the only sort of dance in

fashion at Dresden, excepting now and then a Polonaise.

I have witnessed an interesting spectacle in the _Grosser Garten_. The pond

or basin is completely frozen over, and a Russian Prince, Gallitzin, who is

here, has fitted up a sort of _Montagnes Russes_ as they are called. Blocks

of ice are placed on an inclined plane to the top of which you mount by

means of a staircase; and then, seating yourself in a sort of sledge, you

slide down the inclined plane with immense velocity. The Prince often

persuades a lady to sit on this sleigh on his lap and descend together; and

this no doubt serves to _break the ice_ of many an amorous intrigue. This

construction of the Prince Gallitzin has contributed to fill the _Grosser

Garten_ with the _beau monde_, every day from twelve to two o'clock; so

that you see we are in no want of amusements at Dresden.

The King frequently attends the theatre; he is a tall, fine looking man,

and is usually dressed in the uniform of his Foot-Guards, which is scarlet

faced with yellow. The poor King has taken much to heart the injustice with

which he has been treated by the coalition, and no doubt will not easily

forget the ill-bred and insolent letter of Castlereagh to the Congress,

wherein he said that the King of Saxony deserved to lose his dominions for

adhering to Napoleon. But how the King of Saxony could act otherwise I am

at a loss to find: so little could he possibly deserve this treatment for

adhering to Napoleon, that had his advice been taken in the year 1805, the

French would never have been able to extend their conquests so far, nor to

dictate laws to Germany. But Lord Castlereagh seems to have either never

known or wilfully forgotten the anterior political conduct of Saxony. Had

he been more versed in German affairs, or had studied with more accuracy

the events passing before his eyes, it would have been a check upon his

arrogance; but here was a genuine disciple of the Pitt school (that school

of ignorance and insolence), who sets himself up as the moral regenerator

of nations and as a distributor of provinces, while he is grossly ignorant

of the political system of the country on whose destinies he pretends to

decide so peremptorily. Had Castlereagh paid attention to what was going

forward in Germany in 1805, he would have seen too that of all powers

Prussia was the very _last_ who with any _shadow of justice_ could pretend

to an indemnification at the expense of Saxony. In the year 1805, the King,

then Elector of Saxony, strongly advised the Prussian Cabinet to forget its

ancient rivalry and jealousy of Austria and to coalesce with the latter

power, in resisting the encroachments of Napoleon, in order to prevent the

latter from attempting the overthrow of the whole fabric of the

constitution of the Holy Roman Empire, with the intricacy and fragility of

which no prince in Germany was better acquainted than the Elector of

Saxony. Prussia however was still reluctant to engage in the contest and

gave no support whatever to Austria. Napoleon defeats the Austrians at

Austerlitz and dictates peace. Six months after the Prussian Cabinet,

excited by a patriotic but rash and ill-calculating party, has recourse to

arms, not from any generous policy, but because she sees herself outwitted

by Napoleon, who refuses to cede to her Hanover in perpetuity. Prussia

begins the war and calls on Saxony, who always moved in her orbit, to join

her. To the Elector of Saxony this war (in 1806) appeared then ill-timed

and too late; but with that good faith, nevertheless, which invariably

characterized him, he remained faithful to his engagement and furnished his

quota of troops to Prussia. The Saxon troops fought nobly at the battle of

Jena. This battle annihilates all the power of Prussia, and lays Saxony

entirely at the mercy of the Conqueror; but Napoleon not only treats Saxony

with moderation, but with rare generosity; he does not take from her a

single village, but aggrandizes her and gives to her the Duchy of Warsaw

and to her Sovereign the title of King. Saxony becomes in consequence a

member of the confederation of the Rhine and is bound to support the

Protector in all his wars offensive and defensive. The Russian war in 1812

begins: every German state, Austria and Prussia in the number, furnishes

its contingent of troops. The campaign is unsuccessful, the climate of

Russia having annihilated the French Army, and Napoleon returns to Paris.

Saxony is now exposed to invasion and harassed by the incursions of the

Cossacks. The King of Saxony is perplexed in what manner to act, so as to

ensure to his subjects that protection which was ever uppermost in his

thoughts; feeling however with his usual sagacity that every thing would

ultimately depend on the dispositions of Austria, he repairs himself to

Prague, in order to have an interview with one of the Austrian ministers,

and to sound that Cabinet. Austria however still vacillates and declines

stating what her intentions are. Napoleon returns from Paris, defeats the

Prussians and Russians at Bautzen and re-occupies all Saxony. He then

writes to the King of Saxony to desire him to return immediately to his

dominions and to fulfil his engagements. What was the King to do? Austria

still refusing to declare herself, was he to sacrifice his crown and

dominions uselessly to the vengeance of Napoleon, to please the Emperor of

Russia and King of Prussia, who for aught he knew might patch up a peace

the next day? and this was the more probable from their having been beaten

at Bautzen, which circumstance also might with equal probability induce

Austria to coalesce with, instead of against France. All the other members

of the Confederation of the Rhine remained staunch to Napoleon and poured

their contingents into Saxony; was he to be the only unfaithful ally and

towards a Monarch who had always treated him with the strongest marks of

attachment and regard? and when neither Russia nor Prussia were likely to

give him the least assistance? He therefore returned to Dresden; and

Napoleon took up his grand position the whole length of the Elbe, from the

mountains of Bohemia to Hamburgh, thus covering the whole of Saxony with

his army. Austria however at last comes forward to join the coalition.

Fortune changes; the Saxon troops, tired of beholding their country the

perpetual theatre of war and trusting to the generosity of the Allies, go

over to them in the middle of a battle, and decide, thereby, the fate of

the day at Leipzig. The King of Saxony is made a prisoner, and then he is

punished for what he could not help. Why was he to be punished more than

any other member of the Confederation of the Rhine? One would think that

the seasonable defection of his troops at Leipzig should have induced the

Allies to treat him with moderation. The other States of the Confederation

did not abandon Napoleon until after he was completely beaten at Leipzig;

and Austria refused to accede to the coalition until a _carte blanche_ was

given her to help herself in Italy.

Let every impartial man therefore review the whole of this proceeding and

then say whether the King of Saxony, so proverbial for his probity, so

adored by his subjects, deserved to be insulted by such an unfeeling letter

as that of Castlereagh. No! the King of Saxony better deserves to reign

than any King of them all. Would they had even a small share of his

virtues! Another proof and a still stronger one of the great integrity and

honor of this excellent Prince, is, that when Napoleon offered to mediatize

in his favor the various ducal Houses in Saxony, such as Weimar, Gotha,

Cobourg, etc., and to annex these countries to his dominions, he declined

the offer. Would Prussia, Austria, or Hanover have been so scrupulous?

The young ladies here, tho' well versed and delighting in various branches

of litterature, cannot overcome that strong national propensity to tales

and romances wherein the _terrific and supernatural_ abounds; in all their

romances accordingly this taste prevails strongly; nay, even in some of the

romances, where the scene is laid in later times, there is some such

anachronism as the story of a spectre.

I recollect reading a novel, the scene of which is laid in Italy about the

time of the battle of Marengo, wherein a ghost is introduced who

contributes mainly to the unravelling of the piece. A young lady here of

considerable talent and of general information confessed to me, when I

asked her, what subjects pleased her most in the way of reading, that

nothing gave her so much delight as "_Geistergeschichten_." Lewis' romance

of "_The Monk_" is a great favorite in Germany.[128] By the bye, his

poetical tale of _Alonzo and Imogen_ is evidently taken from a similar

subject in the _Volks-mährchen_.

The weather has set in very cold and the Elbe is nearly frozen over. It is

impossible to go out of the house without a _Pelz_ or cloak lined with fur;

for otherwise, on leaving a room heated by a stove, the effect of the cold

is almost instantaneous and brings on an ague fit. This I attribute to the

excessive heat kept up in the rooms and houses by the stoves. As smoking is

so prevalent here, this contributes much also to keeping the body in a

praeternatural heat and rendering it still more obnoxious to cold on

removal from a room to the open air. It has been remarked by a medical

author, in the Russian campaign in 1812, that the soldiers of the southern

nations and provinces, viz., Provençaux, Gascons, Italians, Spaniards, and

Portuguese, endured the cold much better and suffered less from it than the

Germans and Hollanders. The reason is sufficiently obvious: the former live

in the open air even in the middle of winter and seldom make use of a fire

to warm themselves; whereas the Germans and Dutch live in an atmosphere of

stove-heat and smoke and seldom like to stir abroad in the open air during

winter, unless necessity obliges them. Hence they become half-baked, as it

were; their nerves are unstrung, their flesh flabby and they become so

chilly, as to suffer from the smallest exposure to the atmosphere. In the

houses in Germany, on account of the stoves, the cold is never felt,

whereas it is very severely in Italy and Spain where many of the houses

have no fireplaces. On this account I prefer Germany as a winter residence,

for I think there is no sensation so disagreeable as to feel cold in the

house. In the open air I do not care a fig for it, for my cloak lined with

bearskin protects me amply. The climate here in winter is a dry cold, which

is much more salubrious and agreeable to me than the changeable, humid

climate of Great Britain, where, though the cold is not so great, it is

much more severely felt.

[126] Tacitus, _Germania_, C, VIII.--ED.

[127] Martin Sherlock (d. 1797), author of _Lettres d'un voyageur anglais_,

which were published in Paris 1779 and, the year after, in London.

[128] Matthew Gregory Lewis, 1775-1818, published _Ambrosio or the Monk_ in

1795.--ED.

CHAPTER XVIII

MARCH-APRIL 1819

Journey from Dresden to Leipzig--The University of Leipzig--Liberal

spirit--The English disliked in Saxony--The English Government hostile to

liberty--Journey to Frankfort--From Frankfort to Metz and Paris--A.F.

Lemaître--_Bon voyage_ to the Allies--Return to England.

I left Dresden on the 2nd March, 1819. A _Landkutsche_ conveyed me as far

as Leipzig in a day and half, stopping the first night at Oschaly, where

there is a good inn. At Leipzig I put up at the _Hôtel de Bavière_ and

remained five days. Leipzig is a fine old Gothic city. It is, as everybody

knows, famous for its University and its Fair, which is held twice a year,

in spring and in autumn, and which is the greatest mart for books perhaps

in the world. The University of Leipzig and indeed all the Universities of

Germany are in bad repute among the _Obscuranten_ and _éteignoirs_ of the

day, on account of the liberal ideas professed by the teachers and

scholars. In the University of Leipzig every thing may be learned by those

who chuse to apply, but those who prefer remaining idle may do so, as there

is less compulsion than at the English Universities. There is however such

a national enthusiasm for learning, in all parts of Germany, that the most

careless and ill-disposed youth would never be about to support the

ridicule of his fellow students were he backward in obtaining prizes, but

after all I have heard of the dissipation, lawlessness, and want of

discipline at Leipzig, I can safely affirm that all these stories are

grossly exaggerated: and I fancy there is little other dissipation going

forward than amours with _Stubenmädchen_. I do not hear of any drunkenness,

gaming or horse racing; nor do the professors themselves, who ought to be

the best judges of what is going on, complain of the insubordination of

their pupils. But what I principally admire in this, and indeed in other

German Universities, is that there are no distinctions of rank, such as

gold tassels, etc., no servile attention paid to sprigs of nobility, as in

the Universities in England, where the Heads of Colleges and Fellows are

singularly condescending to the son of a Peer, a Minister, or a Bishop.

Perfect equality prevails in Leipzig and the son of the proudest

_Reichsgraf_ is allowed no more priviledges than the son of a barber; nor

do the professors make the least difference between them. In fact, in spite

of the vulgar belief in England respecting the _hauteur_ of the German

_noblesse_ and the vassalage of the other classes, I must say, from

experience, that the German nobility show far less _hauteur_ and have in

general more really liberal ideas than most part of our English

aristocracy, and a German burgher or shop-keeper would disdain to cringe

before a nobleman as many shopkeepers, aye, and even gentry, are sometimes

known to do in England. Another circumstance too proves on how much more

liberal a footing Leipzig and other German Universities are than our

English ones, which is, that in England none but those who profess the

religion of the Church of England, or conform to its ritual, are admitted;

but here all sects are tolerated and admitted, and all live in perfect

harmony with each other. The students are at liberty to chuse their place

of worship and the sermons that are preached in the Catholic as well as the

Protestant churches are such as sensible men of whatever opinion might

listen to with profit, and without being shocked by absurdities or

intolerant ideas.

Mysteries, theologic sophistry and politics are carefully avoided, and a

pure morality, a simple theosophy, comprehensible to the meanest

understanding, pervades these simple discourses. The consequence of this

toleration and liberal spirit is that an union between the Lutheran and

Calvinistic churches has been effected.

I met a number of mercantile people at the _table d'hôte_ at Leipzig in the

_Hôtel de Bavière_, and I entered a good deal into conversation with them;

but when they discovered I was an Englishman, I could see a sudden coldness

and restraint in their demeanour, for we are very unpopular in Germany,

owing to the conduct of our Cabinet, and they have a great distrust of us.

The Saxons complain terribly of our Government for sanctioning the

dismemberment of their country and of the insolent letter of Castlereagh.

It is singular enough that Saxony is the only country where English goods

are allowed to be imported free of duty; but our great and good ally the

King of Prussia (as these goods must pass thro' his territory) has imposed

a tolerably heavy transit duty. I am glad of it; this is as it should be. I

rejoice at any obstacles that are put to British commerce; I rejoice when I

hear of our merchants suffering and I quite delight to hear of a

bankruptcy. They, the English merchants, contributed with their gold to

uphold the corrupt system of Pitt and to carry on unjust, unreasonable and

liberticide wars. Yes! it is perfectly fit and proper that the despotic

governments they have contributed to restore should make them feel their

gratitude. If the French since their Revolution have not always fought for

liberty, they have done so invariably for science; and wherever they

carried their victorious arms, abuses were abolished, ameliorations of all

kinds followed, and the arts of life were improved. Our Government since

the accession of George III has never raised its arm except in favor of old

abuses, to uphold despotism and unfair privileges, or to establish

commercial monopoly. Our victories so far from being of beneficial effect

to the countries wherein we gained them, have been their curse. We can

interfere and be prodigal of money and blood to crush any attempt of the

continental nations towards obtaining their liberty; but when it is

necessary to intercede in favour of oppressed patriots, then we are told

that we have no right to interfere with the domestic policy of other

nations. We can send ships to protect and carry off in safety a worthless

Royal family, as at Naples in 1799, but we can view with heartless

indifference, and even complacency, the murders committed in Spain by the

infamous Ferdinand and his severities against those to whom he owes his

crown, all of whom had the strongest daim to our protection as having

fought with us in the same cause and contributed to our success.

The _Platz_ at Leipzig is large and here it is that the fair is held. The

theatre is an elegant building and lies just outside one of the gates of

the city. Innumerable shops of booksellers are here and it is astonishing

at how cheap a rate printing in all languages is carried forward.

There are some pleasant promenades in the environs of Leipzig; but this is

not a time of the year to judge of the beauty of the country. I went,

however, to view the house occupied by Napoleon on the eve of the battle of

Leipzig. A monument is to be erected to the memory of Poniatowsky in the

spot where he perished.

I started from Leipzig on 7th March at eleven o'clock. I was five days en

route from Leipzig to Frankfort, tho' the distance does not exceed

forty-five German miles. I travelled in the diligence, but had I known that

the arrangements were so uncomfortable, I should have preferred going in a

_Landkutsche_, which would have made the journey in seven days and afforded

me an opportunity of stopping every night to repose; whereas in the

diligence, tho' they go _en poste_, they travel exceedingly slow and it is

impossible to persuade the postillion to accelerate his usual pace. He is

far more careful of his horses than of his passengers. This I however

excuse; but it is of the frequent stoppages and bad arrangement of them

that I complain. Instead of stopping at some town for one whole night or

two whole nights out of the five, they stop almost at every town for three,

four and five hours; so that these short stoppages do not give you time

enough to go to bed and they are besides generally made in the day time or

early in the morning and evening. We passed thro' the following cities and

places of eminence, viz., Lutzen; the spot where Gustavus Adolphus was

killed is close to the road on the left hand with a plain stone and the

initials G.A. inscribed on it. Weimar is a very neat city and where I

should like much to have staid; but I had only time to view the outside of

the Palace and the _Stadthaus_. Erfurt and Gotha are both fine looking

cities. In Gotha I had only time to see the outside of the _Residenz

Schloss_ or Ducal Palace, which is agreeably situated on an eminence, and

to remark in the _Neumarkt Kirche_ the portrait of Duke Bernard of Saxe

Weimar and the monuments of the princes of that family. At Erfurt there is

the tomb of a Count Gleichen who was made prisoner in the Holy Land, in the

time of the Crusades, and was released by a Mahometan Princess on condition

of his espousing her. The Count was already married in Germany and there he

had left his wife; but such was his gratitude to the fair Musulmane, that

he married her with the full consent of his German wife and they all three

lived happily together. Fulda, where we stopped four hours, appears a fine

city, and is situated on an eminence commanding a noble view of a very

fertile and extensive plain. The Episcopal Palace and the churches are

magnificent, and the general appearance of the town is striking. The

Bishopric of Fulda was formerly an independent ecclesiastical state, but

was secularised at the treaty of Lunéville and now forms part of the

territory of Hesse-Cassel.

The _Feld-zeichen_ of Hesse-Cassel is green and red. After passing thro'

Hanau, where we halted three hours, which gave me an opportunity of viewing

the field of battle there, we proceeded to Frankfort and arrived there at

twelve o'clock the 12th of March. I put up at the _Swan_ inn. In summer

time the country about Fulda and in general between Fulda and Frankfort

must be very pleasing from the variety of the features of the ground. We

lived very well and very cheap on the road. The price of the diligence from

Leipzig to Frankfort was eleven _Reichsthaler_.

After remaining three days to repose at Frankfort I took my place to

Mayence and from thence to Metz and Paris. In the diligence from Mayence

and indeed all the way to Paris I found a very amusing society. There were

two physicians and M. L[emaître], a most entertaining man and of

inexhaustible colloquial talent; for, except when he slept, he never ceased

to talk. His conversation was however always interesting and entertaining,

for he had figured in the early part of the French Revolution and was well

known in the political and litterary world as the editor of a famous

journal called _Le Bonhomme Richard_.[129]

Metz is a large, well built and strongly fortified city. Verdun, thro'

which we passed, became quite an English colony during the war from the

number of _detenus_ of that nation who were compelled to reside there. At

Epernay we drank a few bottles of Champagne and a toast was given by one of

the company, which met with general applause. It was _Bon voyage_ to the

Allies who have now finally evacuated France to the great joy of the whole

nation, except of the towns where they were cantoned, where they

contributed much towards enriching the shopkeepers and inhabitants.

I remained in Paris six days and then proceeded to England.

[129] _Le bonhomme Richard aux bonnes gens_ was not a "famous journal," as

only two numbers appeared in 1790 (M. Tourneux, _Bibliographie de

l'histoire de Paris pendant la Révolution_, vol. 11, p. 585, n. 10,

511). The publisher, Antoine-François Lemaître, whom Major Erye

mentions in this passage, was the author of some other revolutionary

pamphlets, e.g., _Lettres bougrement patriotiques_, etc.--ED.

INDEX

Acheron, Lake.

Adam, Major-General commands Light Brigade of General

Sir H. Clinton's division.

Aix-la-Chapelle:

Hotel-de-Ville;

Cathedral;

relics of Charlemagne;

Napoleon's benefactions;

overbearing demeanour of Prussian soldiers;

Faro bank;

interesting Tyrolese girl;

baths.

Albanot Villa Doria,

ancient monument.

Albany, Countess of,

her claim to be the legitimate Queen of England;

Alfieri's attachment to.

Alexandria: Austrian Government destroys fortifications of

Alfieri: compared with Shakespeare, Schiller, and Voltaire,

monument erected to, by Canova;

his sonnet to Countess of Albany.

Alsace-Lorraine: severance of, from France anticipated by Prussian

officers.

Andernach: ruins of palace of Kings of Austrasia,

church containing embalmed body of Emperor Valentinian;

crossing of Rhine by Julius Caesar at.

Angoulême, Duchesse d': temperament and religious fanaticism of.

Antwerp: English families fly from Brussels to.

Archenholz: historian of the Seven Years' War.

Army of the Loire: exemplary conduct of, when disbanded.

Arona: colossal statue of St Charles Borromeus at.

Austria: fluctuations in the value of the paper currency of

Napoleon's policy as regarded.

Avernus, Lake.

Baciocchi, Princess Elise: sister of Napoleon and Sovereign of Lucca.

Baffo, Venetian poet.

Baiae: baths of Nero,

ruins of temples;

the Styx;

Elysian Fields.

Belgium:

dislike to severance from France;

feeling towards Holland;

attachment to Napoleon;

preparations for the Campaign;

all inhabitants requisitioned for the repair of fortifications.

Berlin: occupation of, after Jena,

excellent conduct of French troops of occupation;

excesses committed by troops of Rhenish Confederation;

insolent conduct of troops raised by Prince of Isenburg;

art treasures of, respected by French Republican Armies;

Unter den Linden;

Brandenburger Thor;

public buildings;

streets;

statues of great men in the Wilhelm Platz;

Churches;

the officers of the Army;

anecdote of Blucher.

Bern: attempts in 1815 to regain possession of the Canton de Vaud.

Bigottini: fine performance at the Grand Opera, Paris.

Bingen: Mausethurm,

Bishop Hatto.

Blacas, Vicomte de: at Court of Louis XVIII at Ghent.

Blucher: popularity of, in London,

encourages the excesses of his soldiery;

nicknames of;

narrowly escapes capture at Ligny;

saves English at Hougoumont;

anecdote related of.

Bohemia: dialect of.

Bologna: arcades,

remarkable picture in gallery of Count Marescalchi;

leaning tower;

lady-professor of Greek;

Carbonari;

theatre;

women;

barbarous dialect.

Bonn:

Electoral palace;

Roman antiquity;

legends of the Sieben Gebirge;

Das Heimliche Gericht.

Bordas, M, politics of.

Borgo San Donino, remarkable highway robbery at.

Borromean Islands, splendid villa in Isola Bella.

Bourbons, the: want of patriotism of the Duc de Berri,

their injudicious conduct;

Louis XVIII and Monsieur at Ghent;

amusing nickname of Louis XVIII;

dislike of the French people to;

their atrocious policy;

send emissaries to South of France from Coblentz;

unpopularity of;

fulsome adulation of;

cause removal of Sismondi from Geneva;

character of royal families of France, Spain, and Naples.

Brussels: description of,

historical associations;

Place du Sablon, celebrated fountain;

theatres;

humanity of inhabitants of, to the wounded after Waterloo.

Caffarelli, Statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg.

Canova, works of, in St Peter's,

master-pieces in his atelier in Rome;

character of his genius.

Capellen, Baron de,

proclamation of, to the inhabitants of Brussels.

Capua,

thievishness of lower classes of.

Carbonari, degrees and initiation,

object;

meaning of name.

Castlereagh, Lord: insolent letter of, respecting King of Saxony.

Catalani: singing of.

Ceylon: Frye's travels in.

Chalon: affection felt for Napoleon in,

Austrian officers in.

Charleroy: defeat of Prussian army at.

Chateaubriand: at the Court of Louis XVIII at Ghent.

Chatham, Earl of: indignation of, at employment of Indians in the War

of Independence.

Clermont: Peter the Hermit preaches First Crusade in,

petrifying well;

Swiss regiment;

anonymous denunciations;

method of cleansing town.

Coblentz: monument to Marceau,

Bourbon intrigues with Jacobins and Brissotins.

Code Napoléon: simplicity and advantages of, as compared with

English criminal law.

Cologne: Cathedral,

the three kings;

the eleven thousand virgins;

etymology of the name;

Jean-Marie Farina.

Cremona: Gothic buildings,

Campanile of Cathedral.

Consalvi, Cardinal: character and abilities of.

Campagna: limbs of quartered malefactors hung up on roadsides,

armed peasants;

the malaria.

David: pictures by, in Palais du Luxembourg.

De l'Epée, Abbé: founder of the Institution of the _Sourds-Muets_.

Dessaix: Statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg.

De Watteville: disbands his army.

Delille, Abbé, his poetry.

De Boigne, General: his great services to Scindiah,

unjustly accused of treachery towards Tippoo Sahb.

Didier: handed over by the Sardinian Government to the French,

his execution at Grenoble.

Dijon: the town,

manufactories of.

Dionigi, Mme: literary and artistic attainments of.

D'Orfei, Mme.

Dresden: The Japanischer Palast,

music in;

Prince Galhitzin;

the King;

bridge over the Elbe;

Marshal Davoust;

Grosser Garten;

Ressource Club;

etiquette;

title of "Rath";

theatres;

beds;

scholars.

Duchesnois, Mlle: fine acting of.

Egypt: striking testimony to the good done by the French in.

Ehrenbreitstein: flying bridge,

great natural strength;

beauty of women of.

Ellis, Col. Sir H.: perishes at Waterloo.

Emigrés, the:

incorrigibility of;

ingratitude to Napoleon;

their foolish expectations;

efforts to cause restoration of lands formerly theirs.

Ens:

whirlpool;

the Waternixie.

Erfurt: legend of Count Gleichen.

Espinassy, General: republican principles of.

Eton: principles instilled into boys at.

Eustace, Mr: examples of his credulity and bigotry.

Ferrara:

Hugo and Parisina;

the Po;

relics of Ariosto;

MSS of Ariosto, Tasso, Guarini;

Hospital of St Anna.

Firmin: acting of.

Fleurus: Prussian army defeated at.

Florence:

the Duomo;

Battisterio;

il Sasso di Dante;

theatres;

public buildings;

statues;

Gallery;

Venus;

de Medici;

paintings and sculpture;

portraits of sovereigns;

Roman antiquities;

remarkable imitations in wax of human anatomy;

Ponte Vecchio;

street paving;

thickness of walls of houses;

Palazzo Pitti;

Canova's Venus;

Boboli Gardens;

Cascino;

beauty of the women;

Pegasus;

Italian fondness for gaudy colours;

Canova's monument to Alfieri;

Church of Santa Croce;

the Florentine Westminster Abbey;

academies;

La Crusca;

English travellers;

Lord Dillon;

story illustrating Florentine life.

Fouché: complains of the conduct of the Allies.

Frankfort:

Venus Vulgivaga;

Jews;

cathedral;

inauguration of Roman Caesars in the Römer;

the Golden Bull;

portraits of the Emperors;

theatre;

adaptation of German language to music;

political opinion in;

dislike to Austria.

French Revolution: worst excesses of, surpassed.

Galileo: monument erected to, in church of Santa Croce.

Gauthier, M.: exiled to Lausanne.

Geneva: scenery,

Fort de l'Écluse;

arcades;

J.J. Rousseau;

Calvin;

Servetus;

sentiments of Genevese towards Napoleon and the Revolution;

literary aptitude of Genevese;

attachment to their country;

the women;

French refugees refused an asylum in;

admitted into Helvetic Confederation.

Genoa: the women of,

peculiarities of the streets;

ducal palace;

Columbus;

bridge of Carignano;

churches.

Georges, Mlle: fine acting of,

her rendering of "Agrippina";

plays the part of "Clytemnestra," supported by her sister as "Iphigénie".

Ghent: Court of Louis XVIII at.

Girolamo, Signor: anecdote of.

Godesberg: interesting ruins near.

Granet: remarkable pictures by.

Grassini: singing of.

Grillparzer, author of the tragedy "Sappho".

Grotto of Pausilippo.

Grotto del Cane.

Guérin: pictures by, in Palais du Luxembourg.

Guillotine, the.

Helvetic Confederation: guaranteed by the Allied Powers in 1814,

Geneva admitted into.

Herculaneum.

Hockheim; Rhenish wines.

Holland: feeling towards the House of Orange,

regret at loss of Cape of Good Hope and Ceylon.

Hougoumont: Bulow and Blucher march to the assistance of the English at

devastation of.

Hulin, General: cashiers a Prussian officer in the French service.

India: Frye's travels in.

Innspruck: the Hofkirche,

statues of kings and princes connected with Maximilian I.

Kléber: statue of, in Palais du Luxembourg.

Klingmann, Philipp: plot of his tragedy "Faust".

Labédoyère: execution of.

Lacoste: acts as Napoleon's guide at Waterloo.

Lafayette: rebukes British Commissioner at the Conference.

Lafond: acting of.

Lafontaine, Augustus: comparison of works of, with the "Nouvelle Heloise"

of Rousseau.

La Harpe, General: influences Emperor of Russia in favour of the Vaudois.

Lamarque: sent by the Convention to arrest Dumouriez,

delivered over to the Austrians;

votes for Napoleon.

Landshut: Church of St Martin at.

Language: influence of, upon the poetry and plays of Italy, France,

England and Germany.

Lausanne: steep ascents,

beauty of environs;

Republican principles of;

intolerant discourse of minister.

Leipzig: Saxon troops go over to the Mies during the battle of,

the University;

unpopularity of the English in.

Leghorn: Hebrew families in,

Don Felipe III;

Smollett's tomb.

Liége: situation of,

coal-pits near;

commerce with Holland;

fortifications;

destroyed by Joseph II.

Linz: beauty of the women,

curious incident;

learned innkeepers.

Lodi: interesting model in the Hôtel des Invalides of battle of.

Louvre: works of art in,

stripping of, by the Allies.

Lucca: female servants,

the amoroso;

Dante's mountain.

Lyons: buildings,

scenery;

feelings towards Napoleon;

character of inhabitants;

manufactures.

Maastricht: situation,

Montagne de St Pierre.

Machiavelli: entombed in church of Santa Croce.

Mâcon: quai,

wine;

grisettes.

Maffei: his "Polyphonte" compared with that of Voltaire.

Maitland, Captain: Napolean surrenders to.

Mantua: situation,

Cathedral;

monuments of the Gonzagas;

the T palace and gardens.

Marengo: the Battle of,

Commemoration column thrown down.

Maria Louisa: ordered to quit papal territory,

enthusiastic reception of, at Bologna;

victim of a strange theft.

Mars, Mlle: graceful acting of.

Massieu: pupil of the Abbé Sicard.

Mayence: Cathedral,

Citadel.

Michel Angelo: anecdote of.

Milan: _Teatro della Scala_,

the _Duomo_;

the women of;

dialect;

the _Zecca_;

palace;

Ambrosian Library;

hospital;

_Teatro Olimpico_;

Porta del Sempione;

Italian comedy and audiences;

Teatro Girolamo;

Milanese twang;

ballet;

acting of La Pallerini.

Mittenwald: great raft,

interesting journey.

Mölk: tradition of the Devil's Wall,

ruins of Castle of Dierenstein;

Richard Coeur de Lion.

Mont Cenis: description of the Chaussée.

Mont St. Jean: dreadful sight on plateau of.

Montefiascone: story of the _Vino d'Est_.

Morice, Colonel: death at Waterloo.

Munich: the King,

national theatre;

social life in;

female head-dress.

Murat: Italian opinion of.

Namur: situation of,

Citadel demolished by Joseph II;

complaints against.

Prussian soldiery.

Napoleon: takes tribute of works of art from vanquished Governments,

calumniated by the _émigrés_;

unjust aspersions on;

narrow escape from capture;

confident of success before Waterloo;

constructs Chaussée of Mont Cenis.

Naples:

life of a man of fashion in;

Etruscan vases and papyri in museum;

theatres;

_Pulcinello_;

social advantages;

lazzaroni;

dialect;

effect of general ignorance.

Nelson, Lord: conduct towards Caraccioli,

Neuwied: University of.

Ney, Marshall: Wellington and Emperor of Russia refuse to interfere

in favour of

Padua:

University;

Church of St Anthony;

Palazzo della Giustizia;

tomb of Livy.

Paris: Louis XVIII in,

Kotzebue on the _Palais Royal_;

Café Montausier;

the Louvre;

statues and paintings collected by the French Government;

productions at the Grand Opera;

Column of the _Place Vendôme_;

Gardens of the Tuileries;

Chamber of Deputies;

the _Invalides_;

models of the fortresses of France;

Picture Gallery of the Palais du Luxembourg;

frequency of quarrels between French and Prussian officers in the;

_Palais Royal_;

behaviour of English officers in;

masterpieces performed in the _Théâtre français_;

Ney shot in the Gardens of the Luxembourg.

Parma: "L'Amfiteatro Farnese",

paintings;

birthplace of Cassius.

Passau: junction of the Danube, Inn and Illst.

Perugia.

Pescia,

advantages of living in.

Picton, Lieut-Genl Sir T.: perishes at Waterloo.

Piedmont: character of the lower classes of.

Pillnitz:

the palace;

Treaty of.

Pisa.

Pitt: credited with the invention of the sinking fund.

Pius VII: character and virtues of.

Pompeii:

amphitheatre;

houses;

Temple of Isis;

Praetorium;

antiquities removed to Museum of Portici.

Pontine Marshes.

Prague: situation,

bridge over the Mulda;

remarkable statue;

Jews;

palaces of the Wallensteins and Colloredos;

St John Nepomucene;

Joseph II's ingenious method of extorting money from the Jews;

Catalani;

story of the Duchess Libussa.

Rafaelli: mosaic work of.

Rho: ancient tree.

Rome: censorship of books at the Dogana,

Coliseum;

Arch of Constantine;

_Via Sacra_--excavations;

Tarpeian Rock;

Capitol;

St Peter's;

anecdote of Michel Angelo;

statue of St Peter;

masterpieces of sculpture in Capitoline Museum;

Transteverini;

effect of the settling of foreign artists in;

Santa Maria Maggiore;

Church of St John Lateran;

Egyptian obelisk;

La Scala Santa;

Quirinal;

fountains;

Column of Trajan;

baths of Diocletian;

theatres;

masterpieces of art in the Vatican Museum;

statue of Jupiter Capitolinus;

stanze di Rafaello;

Appian Road;

social life in;

the _Avvocati_;

Papal Government;

post office defalcations;

the Carnival;

races in the Corso;

masquerades;

Sovereigns and persons of distinction living in Rome in 1818;

Easter in;

Swiss Guard;

Noble Guard;

papal benediction;

illumination of St Peter's;

fireworks from Castle of St Angelo;

the brigand Barbone;

his wife.

Savoy: character of inhabitants of.

Schönbrunn: anecdote of Napoleon's son.

Schuyler, General: his reproof of General Burgoyne.

Scindiah: career of.

Sgricci, Signor: his genius for improvisation.

Sicard, Abbeé; director of the Institution of the _Sourds-Muets_,

eulogises Sir Sidney Smith.

Sienna: cathedral,

Piccolomini monument;

dialect.

Simplon: road over the,

Chaussée;

_maisons de refuge_.

Sismondi,

the historian banished from Geneva.

Smith, Lucius F.: friend of De Boigne.

Smith, Sir Sidney: his eulogy of the Abbé Sicard.

Spoleto: ruins of ancient buildings.

St Cloud: favourite residence of Napoleon.

St Eustatius: pillaged by Admiral Rodney.

St Germain: depôt for articles plundered by Prussian officers.

St Helena: injustice of Napoleon's banishment to.

Stewart, Lord: conduct of, at Conference of French Commissioners

with the Allies.

Taddei, Rosa: her talent for improvisation.

Talma, his ailing at the Théâtre Français.

Thorwaldsen: character of his genius.

Tivoli: the Villa d'Este,

Adrian's Villa.

Tölz: remarkable groups of figures in wood, representing

history of Christ.

Tournay,

citadel of.

Trévoux: scenery on the road between Mâcon and,

hotel-keeper's beautiful daughter.

Turin: Chapelle du Saint Suaire,

remarkable works of art in;

the King of Sardinia.

Tuscany: contrast with papal dominions,

pronunciation;

peasantry;

fondness of Tuscan women for dress;

feeling towards Napoleon in;

character of the people;

house of Americo Vespucci.

Tyrol, the: general description of,

dress of the peasant women.

Valais: crétins of.

Vaud, Canton de: character of inhabitants of,

gratitude to France;

democratic spirit;

La Harpe;

defends its independence;

hatred of French Royalists to.

Velino: remarkable cascade.

Venice: Canale Grande,

Rialto;

palaces of great families;

the Merceria;

water-fête;

Piazza di San Marco;

Church of St Mark;

Campanile;

variety of costumes in;

dialect;

social life in;

Doge's palace;

theatres;

gondolas.

Verbruggen, H.: work of, in church of St Gudule, Brussels.

Verona: amphitheatre,

Palladio;

Scala family;

social advantages in.

Versailles: magnificence of.

"Vertraute Briefe" the.

Vesuvius: eruptions,

lava.

Vicenza.

Vienna: Art treasures of, respected by French Republican armies,

great raft;

streets;

Cathedral;

Hofburg;

Congress of;

Wechselbank;

Belvedere Palace;

Prater;

theatres.

Visconte, Galeazzo: builds church of the Certosa.

Volnais, Mlle: Acting of.

Voltaire: his play, "Mérope",

his benefactions to Ferney;

relics of;

portraits of contemporaries in his château.

Walker, Adam: his lectures to Etonians stopped.

Wardle, Col.: republican principles of,

anonymous denunciation of.

Waterloo: French officer's remarks on.

Wellington: his confidence in the result of the campaign,

gallantry of;

checks frequency of corporal punishment in the army.

Wilson, Maj.-Genl: accompanies Frye on a tour through the theatre of War.

Wilson, Sir R.: his charges against Napoleon.

Wirion: removed from office by Napoleon.

York, Duke of,

opposes frequent corporal punishment in the Army.

Zedera, Chevalier: political dispute with Genevese,

his journey with Frye to Italy;

his parting with Frye.