CHAPTER XII

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816

From Rome to Florence--Sismondi the historian--Reminiscences of

India--Lucca--Princess Elisa Baciocchi--Pisa--The Campo Santo--Leghorn--

Hebrews in Leghorn--Lord Dillon--The story of a lost glove--From Florence

to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis--Lombardy in winter--The

Hospice of Mont Cenis.

FLORENCE, Novr. 20th.

I bade adieu to Rome on the 28th October and returned here by the same road

I went, viz., by Radicofani and Sienna. I arrived here after a journey of

six days, having been detained one day at Aquapendente on account of the

swelling of the waters. The day after my arrival here I despatched a letter

to Pescia to Mr Sismondi de' Sismondi, the celebrated author of the history

of the Italian Republics, to inform him of my intended visit to him, and I

forwarded to him at the same time two letters of introduction, one from

Colonel Wardle and the other from Mr Piton, banker at Geneva, who mentioned

me in his letter to Sismondi as having _des idées parfaitement analogues

aux siennes_. I received a most friendly answer inviting me to come to

Pescia and to pass a few days with him at his villa. Pescia is thirty miles

distant from Florence and the same from Leghorn. I was delighted with the

opportunity of seeing a man whom I esteemed so much as an author and as a

citizen, and of visiting at the same time the different cities of Tuscany,

particularly Lucca and Pisa. I accordingly hired a cabriolet and on the

morning of the 6th Novr drove to Prato, a good-sized handsome town, solidly

built, ten miles distant from Florence. The country on each side of the

road appears highly cultivated, and the road is lined with villas and farm

houses with gardens nearly the whole way. Changing horses at Prato, I

proceeded ten miles further to Pistoia, a large elegant and well-built town

on the banks of the Ombrone.

The streets in Pistoia are broad and well paved and the _Palazzo pubblico_

is a striking building; so is the _Seminario_ or College. Here I changed

horses again and proceeded to Pescia, where I alighted at the villa of M.

Sismondi. The distance between Pistoia and Pescia is about ten or eleven

miles.

Pescia is a beautiful little town, very clean and solidly built, lying in a

valley surrounded nearly on all sides by mountains. Its situation is

extremely romantic and picturesque, and there are several handsome villas

on the slopes and summits of these mountains. On market days Pescia is

crowded with the country people who flock hither from all parts, and one is

astonished to see such a number of beautiful and well dressed country

girls. Industry and comfort are prevalent here, as is the case indeed all

over Tuscany; I mean agricultural industry, for commerce is just now at a

stand.

I passed three most delightful days and which will live for ever in my

recollection, with Mr Sismondi, in whom I found an inexhaustible fund of

talent and information, combined with such an unassuming simplicity of

character and manner that he appeared to me by far the most agreeable

litterary man that I ever met with. His mother, who is a lady of great

talent and perfectly conversant in English litterature, resides with him.

His sister also is settled at Pescia, being married to a Tuscan gentleman

of the name of Forti. The sister has a full share of the talents and

amiable qualities of her mother and brother. With a family of such

resources as this, you may suppose our conversation did not flag for a

moment, nor do I recollect in the course of my whole life having passed

such a pleasant time; and I only wished that the three days could be

prolonged to three years. Politics, the occurrences of the day, living

characters, classical reminiscences, French, English, Italian and German

litterature, afforded us an inexhaustible variety of topics for

conversation: and the profound local knowledge that Mr Sismondi possesses

of Italy, of its history and antiquities, renders his communications of the

utmost value to the traveller. Our supper was prolonged to a late hour and

I question if the suppers and conversations of Scipio and Atticus, those

_nodes caenaeque Deum_[100] were more piquant or afforded more variety than

ours. Shakespeare, Schiller, Voltaire, Ariosto, Dante, Filangieri, Michel

Angelo, Washington, Napoleon, all furnished anecdotes and reflexions in

abundance.

The last evening that I passed here, two families of Pescia came in. One of

the gentlemen was a great reader of voyages and travels, and India suddenly

became the subject of discourse. As I had passed six years in that country,

during which time I had visited the three Presidencies of Calcutta, Madras,

and Bombay, having ascended the Ganges as far as Benares, having visited

the Mysore country and Nizam's territory, having sojourned three weeks

among the splendid and magnificent ruins of Bijanagur or Bisnagar, having

travelled thro' the whole of the Deccan from Pondicherry to cape Comorin,

besides having traversed on horseback the whole circumference of Ceylon and

across the whole island from East to West by the Wanny, I was enabled to

furnish them with many an anecdote from the Eastern world, which to them

was a great treat, and I dare say at times my narration appeared almost as

marvellous as a story in the Arabian Nights, particularly when I related

the various religious ceremonies, the grim Idol of Juggernaut, the swinging

to _recover cast_, the exposure of old people to the holy death in the

Ganges by stopping up their nose, mouth and ears with mud, and placing them

on the water's edge at low tide in order that they should be swept off at

the high water; the holy city of Benares; the magnificent remains of

Bisnagar; the splendid Pagodas of Ramisseram; the policy of the Bramins;

the appalling voluntary penances of the _Joguis_ or _Fakirs_ as the

Europeans call them; the bed of spikes; the arm held up in the air for

fifteen years; the tiger hunt; the method of catching the elephant in

Ceylon; the pearl fishery; Sepoy establishment; in short I must have

appeared to them a Ulysses or a Sindbad, and I dare say that they thought I

added from time to time a little embellishment from my imagination, tho' I

can safely and solemnly aver that I did not extenuate nor exaggerate any

thing, but simply related what I had myself seen and witnessed.

Mr Sismondi is under a sort of banishment from his native country Geneva in

consequence of the side of the question he took in his writings on the

return of the Emperor Napoleon from Elba. It was indeed natural for the

restored government (the Bourbons) to desire the removal from France of a

man of talent who had exposed their past and might scrutinize their future

conduct and wilful faults; but why the Government of Geneva should espouse

their quarrel and visit one of their most estimable citizens with

banishment for opinions not at all connected with nor influential upon

Geneva, appears to me not only absurd and anomalous, but unjust in the

highest degree. But such is the state of degradation to which Europe is

reduced by the triumph of the old _régime_; and the Swiss Governments are

compelled to become the instruments of the vengeance of the coalition. But

I shall dwell no more on this subject at present. Let us hope that in a

short time a more liberal spirit will arise, and the Genevese will be eager

to recall in triumph the illustrious citizen of whom they have so much

reason to be proud.

We spent our mornings, Mr Sismondi and I, in promenades towards the most

striking points of the country immediately environing Pescia, and as I had

at this time some idea of coming to settle in Tuscany, he was so kind as to

conduct me to look at several villas that were to let; and I inspected

three very beautiful ones well furnished and each capable of holding a

large family, that were to be let for 18, 20, and 24 _louis d'or_ per

annum.

Wine and every article of life is of prodigious cheapness here, and the

inhabitants are so respectable, and there is such an absence of all crime,

that Pescia must be a very desirable and economical residence for any

foreign family possessing a sufficient knowledge of Italian to mix with the

society of the natives. There are several ancient and noble families in the

neighbourhood, highly respectable in point of moral character and manners,

but rather in _décadence_ in point of fortune.

It was with the greatest regret that I bade adieu to the amiable Sismondi,

his mother and sister; but I hope for a time only, as I have some idea of

removing my domicile from Lausanne to this part of the world.

I started at 10 o'clock a.m. on the 11th of November and after two hours'

journey in a cabriolet arrived at Lucca, a distance of ten miles, and put

up at the _Hôtel del Pelicano._ The road runs thro' a highly cultivated

country.

Lucca is a large fortified city, situated hi a beautifully luxuriant plain

or basin surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains of various slopes,

contours and heights, and abounding in villas, vineyards, mulberry and

olive plantations. Every spot of ground is in cultivation and the industry

of the inhabitants of Lucca is proverbial. Indeed the whole territory of

this little _ci-devant_ Republic is a perfect paradise.

The city itself, from the massiveness and solidity of the edifices, has

more of a solemn than a lively appearance; but there is a delightful walk

on the ramparts which are lined with trees. The streets are well paved. The

extreme antiquity of the city and style of its edifices make it appear less

_riani_ than the other cities in Tuscany. The Cathedral is Gothic and there

are in it the statues of the four Evangelists. This and the _Palazzo

Pubblico_ are the most conspicuous edifices. Tho' the Republic is

annihilated, the word _Libertas_ still remains on an escutcheon on the

gates of the city. Lucca, tho' no longer a Republic and enclavée in

Tuscany, is for the present an independent state and belongs to an Infanta

of Spain (formerly Princess of Parma) who takes the title of Duchess of

Lucca. It is generally supposed however that on the demise of Maria Louisa,

ex-Empress of the French and now Duchess of Parma, this family, viz., the

Duchess of Lucca and her son will resume their ancient possessions in the

Parmesan, and that Lucca will then be incorporated with Tuscany.

Before the fall of Napoleon the Princess Elisa Baciocchi his sister was

sovereign of Lucca, and she it was who has embellished the outside of the

city with some beautiful promenades. She devoted her whole time, talents

and resources to the good of her subjects and is highly esteemed and much

regretted by them. The present Duchess of Lucca has no other character but

that which seems common to the Royal families of France, Spain and Naples;

viz., of being very weak and priest-ridden. Lucca furnishes excellent

female servants who are remarkable for their industry and probity. Their

only solace is their lover or _amoroso_, as they term him; and when they

enter into the service of any family, they always stipulate for one day in

the week on which they must have liberty to visit their _amoroso_, or the

_amoroso_ must be allowed to come to the house to visit them. This is an

ancient custom among them and has no pernicious consequences, nor does it

interfere with their other good qualities. At the back of Lucca is an

immense mountain which stands between it and Pisa, and intercepts the

reciprocal view of the two cities which are only ten miles distant from

each other. This mountain and its peculiarity is the very one mentioned by

Dante in his _Inferno_ in the _episode_ of Ugolino:

_Cacciando il lupo e i lupicini_ AL MONTE,

PER CHE i Pisan veder Lucca NON ponno.[101]

I started from Lucca in a cabriolet and in two hours arrived at Pisa,

putting up at the _Tre Donzelle_ on the Quai of the Arno. Between Lucca and

Pisa are the _Bagni di Lucca_, a favorite resort for the purpose of bathing

and drinking the mineral waters.

Pisa is one of the most beautiful cities I have seen in Italy. The extreme

elegance and comfort of the houses, the spacious Quai on the Arno which

furnishes a most agreeable promenade, the splendid style of architecture of

the _Palazzi_ and public buildings, the cleanliness of the streets, the

salubrity of the climate, the mildness of the winter, the profusion and

cheapness of all the necessaries of life, and above all the amenity and

simplicity of the inhabitants, combine to make Pisa an agreeable and

favorite residence. Yet the population having much decreased there appears

an air of melancholy stillness about the city and grass may be seen in some

of the streets. This decay in population causes lodgings to be very cheap.

The most striking object in Pisa is the leaning tower _(Torre cadente)_ and

after that the Cathedral, Baptistery, and _Campo Santo_ which are all close

to the tower and to each other. Imagine two fine Gothic Churches in a

square or place like Lincoln's Inn Fields; a large oblong building nearly

at right angles with the churches and inclosing a green grass plot in its

quadrangle and a leaning tower of cylindrical form facing the churches: and

then you will have a complete idea of this part of Pisa.

I must not omit to mention that there is a breed of camels here belonging

to the Grand Duke; I believe it is the only part of Europe except Turkey

where the breed of camels is attempted to be propagated.

LEGHORN, 17 Novr.

I left Pisa for Leghorn on the morning of the 15th November, and after a

drive of two hours in a cabriolet I arrived at the latter place and put up

at the _Aquila Nera._ The distance between Pisa and Leghorn is only 10 or

11 miles and a plain with few trees, either planted in corn or in

pasturage, forms the landscape between the two cities.

Leghorn (Livorno), being a modern city, does not offer anything remarkably

interesting to the classical traveller either from its locality or its

history. Founded under the auspices of the Medici it has risen rapidly to

grandeur and opulence, and has eclipsed Genoa in commerce. It is a

remarkably handsome city, the streets being all broad and at right angles;

the _Piazze_ are large and the _Piazza Grande_ in particular is

magnificent. There is a fine broad street leading from the _Piazza Grande_

to the Port. The Port and Mole are striking objects and considerable

commercial bustle prevails there.

Among the few things worthy of particular notice is the Jewish Synagogue,

decorated with costly lamps and inscriptions in gold in the Hebrew and

Spanish languages, many of which allude to the hospitality and protection

afforded to the Hebrew nation by the Sovereigns of Tuscany. There are a

great number of Hebrew families here: they all speak Spanish, being the

descendants of those unfortunate Jews who were expelled from Spain at the

time of the expulsion of the Moors in the reign of Don Felipe III surnamed

_el Discreto_, who was determined not to suffer either a Jew, Mahometan or

heretic in all his dominions. This barbarous decree was the ruin and

destruction of a number of industrious families, thousands of whom died of

despair at being exiled from their native land. In return for this what has

Spain gained? The Inquisition--despotism in its worst form--poverty--rags

--lice--an overbearing insolent and sanguinary priesthood of whom the

monarch is either the puppet or the slave; a degraded nobility; a half

savage, grossly ignorant, lazy and brutal people. A proper judgment on the

Spanish nation for its cruelty and fanaticism! My guide at Leghorn

conducted me to see the burying ground belonging to the English factory,

which is interesting enough from the variety of tombs, monuments and

inscriptions. Here all Protestants, to whatever nation they belong, are

buried. I noticed Smollett's tomb. It is on the whole an interesting spot,

tho' not quite so much so as the cemetery of Père La Chaise at Paris.

I returned to Florence from Leghorn _tout d'une traite_ in the diligence.

We stopped at Fornacetti (half way) to dine. There is a good _table d'Hôte

(ordinario)_ there.

FLORENCE, 22nd Novr.

I have become acquainted with Lord Dillon[102] and his family, who are

residing here and from whom I have received much civility. I met at his

house the Marchese Giuliani, one of the adherents of King Joachim, a very

amiable and clever man who speaks English fluently. Lord Dillon is a man of

much reading and information and his conversation is at all times a great

treat. His lady too is very amiable and accomplished. I went one day with a

friend of mine to a _pique-nique_ party at the Cascino, where a laughable

adventure occurred perfectly in the stile of the _novelle_ of Boccacio. As

it is not the custom in Florence that husbands and wives should go together

to places of public amusement, the lady is generally accompanied by her

_cavalier servente:_ but it by no means follows that the _cavalier

servente_ is the favored lover: one is often adopted as a cover to another

who enjoys the peculiar favors of the lady. A gentleman who arrived at the

hall where the supper table was laid out, somewhat earlier than the rest of

the company and before the chamber was lighted, observed a gentleman and

lady ascend the staircase, turn aside by a corridor and enter a chamber

together. It was dark and he could not distinguish their persons. He waited

fifteen or twenty minutes and observed them leave the chamber together,

pass along the corridor and disappear. He had the curiosity to go into the

chamber they had just left and found on the bed a lady's glove. He took up

the glove and put it in his pocket, determined that this incident should

afford him some amusement at supper and the company also by putting some

fair one to the blush. Accordingly, when the supper was nearly over, he

held up the glove and asked with a loud voice if any lady had lost a glove;

when his own wife who was sitting at the same table at some distance from

him called out with the utmost _sangfroid: E il mio! dammelo: l'ho lasciato

cadere._ You may conceive what a laugh there was against him, for he had

related the circumstances of his finding it to several of the company

before they sat down to supper. This reminded me of an anecdote mentioned

by Brantôme as having occurred at Milan in his time, a glove being in this

case also the cause of the _désagrément_. A married lady had been much

courted by a Spanish Cavalier of the name of Leon: one day, thinking he had

made sure of her, he followed her into her bedroom, but met with a severe

and decided repulse and was compelled to leave her _re infectà_. In his

confusion he left one of his gloves on the bed which remained there

unperceived by the lady. The husband of the lady arrived shortly afterwards

and as he was aware of the attentions of the Spaniard to his wife and had

noticed his going into the house, he went directly to his wife's chamber,

where the first thing that captivated his attention was a man's military

glove on the bed. He, however, said nothing, but from that moment abstained

from all conjugal duty. The lady finding herself thus neglected by a

husband who had been formerly tender and attentive, was at a loss to know

the reason, and determined to come to an _éclaircissement_ with him in as

delicate a manner as she could. She therefore took a slip of paper, wrote

the following lines thereon and placed it on his table:

_Vigna era, vigna son;

Era podada, or più non son;

E non sò per qual cagion

Non mi poda il mio patron._[103]

The husband, on reading these lines, wrote the following in answer:

_Vigna eri, vigna sei;

Eri podada, e più non sei;

Per la gran fa del Leon

Non ti poda il tuo patron._

The lady on reading these lines perceived at once the cause of her

husband's estrangement and succeeded in explaining the matter

satisfactorily to him, which was facilitated by the ingenuous declaration

of Leon himself that he had tried to succeed but had been repulsed. The

husband and wife being perfectly reconciled lived happily and no doubt the

vine was cultivated as usual.

I left Florence the 27th November, and arrived at Turin 5th December. In an

evil hour I engaged myself to accompany an old Swiss Baroness with whom I

became acquainted at the Hotel of Mine Hembert to accompany her to Turin.

She had with her her son, a fine boy of thirteen years of age but very much

spoiled. We engaged a _vetturino_ to conduct us to Turin, stopping one day

at Milan. The Baroness did not speak Italian and generally sent for me to

interpret for her when any disputes occurred between her and the people at

the inns, and these disputes were tolerably frequent, as she always gave

the servants wherever she stopped a good deal of trouble and on departing

generally forgot to give them the _buona grazia._ I sometimes paid them for

her myself in order to avoid noise and tumult; at other times we departed

under vollies of abuse and imprecations such as _brutta vecchia, maladetta

carogna,_ and so forth. The Baroness had strong aristocratic prejudices and

was a bitter enemy of the French Revolution to which she attributed

collectively all the _désagrémens_ she had experienced during life and all

the inconveniences she met with during our present journey. The negligence

and impertinence of the servants in Italy were invariably attributed by her

to the revolutionary principle and she told me that the servants in her

native canton Bern were the best in the world, but that even in them the

French Revolution had made a great deal of difference and that they were

not so submissive as they used to be. As she sent for me to be her dragoman

in all her disputes on the road, you may conceive how glad I was to arrive

at Turin to be rid of her. She put me in mind of Gabrina in the _Orlando

Furioso._ We stopped one day at Milan but we were very near being detained

two or three days at Fiacenza owing to an informality in the Baroness's

passport, which had not been visé by the Austrian Legation at Florence. In

vain she pleaded that she was told at the inn at Florence that such _visa_

was not necessary; the police officer at the Austrian _Douane_, at a short

distance beyond Piacenza, was inexorable and refused to _viser_ her

passport to allow her to proceed. She was in a sad dilemma and it was

thought we should be obliged to remain at Piacenza. I however recommended

her to be guided by me and not to talk with or scold anybody, and that I

would ensure her arrival at Milan without difficulty, for I had observed

that her scolding the officer at the _Douane_ only served to make him more

obstinate. I recommended her therefore that when we should arrive within

sixty or seventy paces of the gate at Milan, she should get out of the

carriage with her son and walk thro' the gate on foot with the utmost

unconcern as if she belonged to the town and was returning from a

promenade; and that while they stopped us who were in the carriage to

examine our passports, she should walk direct to the inn where we were to

lodge, then write to the Consul of her nation to explain the business. She

followed my advice and passed unobserved and unmolested into Milan. On the

preceding evening at Castel-puster-lengo at supper I asked whether she

thought the rigour of the Austrian government was also the offspring of the

French Revolution. The Baroness had brought up her son in all these

feelings and particularly in a determined hatred of the Canton de Vaud; for

in the evening when we arrived at the inn and were sitting round the fire,

he would shake the burning faggots about and say: _Voilà la ville de

Lausanne en cendres!_ If he grows up with these ideas and acts upon them,

he stands a good chance of being shot in a duel by some Vaudois. It is a

pity to see a child so spoiled, for he was a very fine boy, tho' very

violent in his temper which probably he inherited from his mother. Somebody

at the _pension Surpe_ at Milan who knew her told me that the Baroness was

of an aristocratic family and had married a rich _bourgeois_ of Bern whom

she treated rather too much _de haut en bas;_ in short that it was a

marriage quite _à la George Dandin_, till the poor man took it into his

head to die one day. At Turin we parted company, she for Genoa and I for

Lausanne.

_From Turin to Lausanne_.

I felt the cold very sensibly in the journey from Florence to Milan and

Turin. There is not a colder country in Europe than Lombardy in the winter.

The vicinity of the Alps contributes much to this; and the houses being

exceedingly large and having no stoves it is quite impossible that the

fireplaces can give heat sufficient to warm the rooms. I started from Turin

on the morning of the 9th December in the French diligence bound to Lyon,

but taking my place only as far as Chambéry. In the diligence were a

Piedmontese Colonel who had served under Napoleon, and a young Scotchman, a

relation of Lord Minto. The latter was fond of excursions in ice and snow

and on our arrival at Suza he proposed to me to start from there two or

three hours before the diligence and to ascend Mont Cenis on foot as far as

the _Hospice_ and I was mad enough to accede to the proposal, for it

certainly was little less than madness in a person of my chilly habits and

susceptibility of cold and who had passed several years within the tropics

to scale the Alps on foot in the middle of December and to walk 24 miles in

snow and ice at one o'clock in the morning, which was the hour at which we

started. I was well clad in flannel and I went thro' the journey valiantly

and in high spirits and without suffering much from the cold till within

five miles of the Hospice, when a heavy snow storm came on; it then began

to look a little ugly and but for Napoleon's grand _chaussès_ we were lost.

We struggled on three miles further in the snow before we fell in with a

_maison de refuge_. We knocked there and nobody answered. We then

determined _coûte que coûte_ to push on to the _Hospice_ which we knew

could not be more than two miles distant; indeed it was much more advisable

so to do than to run the risk of being frozen by remaining two or three

hours in the cold air till the diligence should come up. In standing still

I began to feel the cold bitterly; so in spite of the snow storm, we pushed

on and arrived at the inn at Mont-Cenis at five in the morning. We rubbed

our hands and faces well with snow and took care not to approach the fire

for several minutes, fortifying ourselves in the interim with a glass of

brandy. We then had some coffee made and laid ourselves down to sleep by

the side of an enormous fire until the diligence arrived, which made its

appearance at eight o'clock. The passengers stopped to breakfast and the

Scotchman proposed to me to make the descent of Lans-le-Bourg also on foot;

but I was quite satisfied with the prowess I had already exhibited and

declined the challenge. He however set off alone and thus performed the

entire passage of Mont Cenis on foot. As for the rest of us we were carried

down on a _traineau_; that is to say the diligence was unloaded and its

wheels taken off; the baggage and wheels were put on one _traineau_ and the

diligence with the passengers in it on another, and in this manner we

descended to Lans-le-Bourg. Nothing remarkable occurred on this journey and

we arrived at Chambéry in good case. I hired a _calèche_ to go to Geneva,

remained there three days and arrived at Lausanne on the 18th December.

[100] Horace, _Sat_., II, 6, 65.--ED.

[101] Dante, _Inferno_, I, 33,29.--ED.

[102] Henry Augustus, thirteenth Viscount Dillon (1777-1832), married

(1807) to Henrietta Browne (died 1862).--ED.

[103] Quoted from memory, with mistakes. The text has been corrected as it

stands in Brantôme, _Les Dames galantes_, ed. Chasles, vol. I, p.

351.--ED.

AFTER

WATERLOO

PART III.

CHAPTER XIII

MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817

Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand--A wretched conveyance--The

first dish of frogs--Society in Clermont-Ferrand--General de

Vergeunes--Cleansing the town--Return to Lausanne--A zealous

priest--Journey to Bern and back to Lausanne--Avenches--Lake Morat--Lake

Neufchatel--The Diet in Bern--Character of the Bernois--A beautiful

Milanese lady.

I started from Lausanne on the 4th March 1817, and arrived on the same day

at 4 o'clock at Geneva. On my arrival at Geneva, my banker informed me that

I had been denounced to the police, for some political opinions I had

spoken at the _Hôtel de l'Ecu de Genéve_, previous to my journey into

Italy, and that I had been traced as far as Turin. I went directly on

hearing this to the police, and desired to know who my accusers were, and

that the accusation against me might be investigated immediately. Both

these propositions were however declined, and I was told it was an _affaire

passeé_, and of no sort of consequence; so that from that day to this I

have never been able to ascertain who my friends were.

I left Lausanne with the intention of paying a visit to my friend Col.

Wardle and his family at Clermont-Ferrand, in the Department of the Puy de

Dôme, in Auvergne, where they are residing. I staid three days at Geneva,

and then set off at 7 in the evening on the 8th March with the Courier for

Lyons.

I never regretted any thing so much, and was near paying severely for my

rashness in putting myself into such a wretched conveyance, at such a

season of the year; but I had made the agreement with the Courier without

inspecting his carriage, and was obliged to adhere to the bargain. It was a

vehicle entirely open before; it was a bitter cold, rainy, snowy night; and

I had the rain and snow in my face the whole way, and on crossing the

Cerdon I was seized with a violent ague fit, and suffered so much from it

that on arrival at a village beyond Nantua where we stopped for supper, I

determined to proceed no further, but to rest there that night; and I asked

the innkeeper if he could furnish me with a bed for the night. He however

made so many objections and seemed so unwilling that I should remain, that

I was obliged to make up my mind to proceed. I allayed the _frissonnement_

by a large glass of brandy and water, made fiery hot. At eight o'clock next

morning I arrived at Lyons, more dead than alive. A warm bath, however,

remaining in bed the whole day, buried in blankets, abstaining from all

food, a few grains of calomel at night and copious libations of rice gruel

the next day restored me completely to health; and after a _séjour_ of four

days at Lyons, I was enabled to proceed on my journey to Clermont on the

14th March. We arrived at Roanne in the evening and I stopped there the

whole night.

Between Lyons and Roanne is the mountain of Tarare where the road is cut

right athwart the mountain and is consequently terribly steep; indeed it is

the steepest ascent for a carriage I ever beheld. All the passengers were

obliged to _bundle out_ and ascend on foot; and even then it is a most

arduous _montée_ for such a cumbrous machine as a French diligence.

The country between Lyons and Roanne appears diversified; but this is not

the season for enjoying the beauties of nature. Roanne consists of one

immensely long street, but it is broad, and contains excellently built

houses and shops. There is a theatre also and baths. It is situated on the

Loire which I now salute for the first time.

The following morning at nine o'clock a _patache_ (a sort of two wheeled

carriage) was in waiting to convey me the remainder of my journey; and I

arrived at night at a large village or town called Thiers. Halfway between

Roanne and Thiers, on stopping at a small village to dine, I observed a

dish of frogs at the kitchen fire at the inn; and as it was the first time

I had observed them as an article of food in France, I was desirous to

taste them. They were dressed in a _fricassée_ of white sauce, and I found

them excellent. The legs only are used. They would be delicious as a curry.

The next morning we continued our journey; and crossing the river Allier at

twelve o'clock, arrived at Clermont-Ferrand at 2 p.m., and dined with Col.

Wardle. Clermont and Ferrand are two towns within a mile and half distant

from each other and this Clermont is generally called Clermont-Ferrand to

distinguish it from other towns of the same name.

CLERMONT, March 26th.

I have taken lodgings for a month, and board with a French family for 90

franks per month. On the road hither the immense mountain called the Puy de

Dôme is discernible at a great distance; it is said to have been a volcano.

Clermont is a very ancient city and has an air of dullness; but the _Place_

and promenades round the town are excellent. It is the capital of this

department (Puy de Dôme). There is a terrible custom here of emptying the

_aguas mayores y menores_ (as the Spaniards term those secretions) into the

small streets that lie at the back of the houses. The consequence is that

they are clogged up with filth and there is always a most abominable

stench. One must be careful how one walks thro' these streets at night,

from the liability of being saluted by a golden shower. The lower classes

of the Auvergnats have the reputation of being dirty, slovenly and idle.

Here is a church built by the English in the time of Edward III, when the

Black Prince commanded in this country; and it was in a chapel in this

city, the remains of which still exist, that Peter the Hermit preached the

first crusade. These are almost the only things worthy of remark in the

town itself, except that there is a good deal of commerce carried on,

manufactures of crockery, cloth and silk stockings. But in the natural

curiosities of the environs of Clermont there is a great deal to interest

the botanist and mineralogist and above all there is a remarkable

petrifying well, very near the town, where by leaving pieces of wood,

shell-fish and other articles exposed to the dropping of the water, they

become petrified in a short time. This water has the same effect on dead

animals and rapidly converts them into stone. I have myself seen a small

basket filled with plovers' eggs become in eight days a perfect

petrifaction.

CLERMONT, April 2d.

I am arrived here at rather a dull season: the Carnaval is just over and

all the young ladies are taking to their _Livres d'Heures_ to atone for any

levity or indiscretion they may have been guilty of during the hey day of

the Carnaval. The Wardle family have a very pleasant acquaintance here,

chiefly among the _libéraux_, or moderate royalists, but there are some

most inveterate _Ultras_ in this city, who keep aloof from any person of

liberal principles, as they would of a person infected with the plague. The

noblesse of Auvergne have the reputation of being in general ignorant and

despotic. There is but little _agrément_ or instruction to be derived from

their society, for they have not the ideas of the age. In general the

nobles of Auvergne, tho' great sticklers for feudality and for their

privileges, and tho' they disliked the Revolution, had the good sense not

to emigrate.

There is a Swiss regiment of two battalions quartered here. It bears the

name of its Colonel, De Salis. As there are a number of officers of the old

army here, on half pay, about three hundred in number, it is said, frequent

disputes occur between them and the Swiss officers. The Swiss are looked

upon by the people at large as the satellites of despotism and not without

reason. It is, I think, degrading for any country to have foreign troops in

pay in time of peace. Several attempts have been made in the Chamber of

Deputies to obtain their removal or _licencíement_, but without success. As

it is supposed that the song of the _Ranz des Vaches_ affects the

sensibility of the Swiss very much, and makes them long to return to their

native mountains, a wag has recommended to all the young ladies in France

who are musicians to play and sing the _Ranz des Vaches_ with all their

might, in order to induce the Swiss to betake themselves to their native

country.

There has been a great deal of denunciation going forward here; but the

General de V----[104] who commands the troops in Clermont, determined to

put a stop to it. He had the good sense to see that such a system, if

encouraged, would be destructive of all society, prejudicial to the

Government, and vexatious to himself; as he would be thereby kept

continually in hot water. Accordingly, on a delator presenting himself and

accusing another of not being well affected to the present order of things,

and of having spoken disrespectfully of the King, M. de V---- said to him:

"I have no doubt, Sir, that your denunciation proceeds from pure motives,

and I give you full credit for your zeal and attachment to the royal cause;

but I cannot take any steps against the person whom you accuse, unless you

are willing to give me leave to publish your name and consent to be

confronted with him, so that I may examine fairly the state of the case,

and render justice to both parties." The accuser declined acceding to this

proposition. The General desired him to withdraw, and shortly after

intimated publicly that he would listen to no denunciation, unless the

denouncer gave up his name and consented to be confronted with the accused.

The consequence of this intimation was that all denunciations ceased. The

late Prefect however was not so prudent, and chose rather to encourage

delation; but mark the consequence! He arrested several persons wrongfully,

was obliged to release them afterwards, was in continual hot water and it

ended by the Government being obliged to displace him. To avoid the merited

vengeance of many individuals whom he had ill-treated, he was obliged, on

giving up his prefecture, to make a precipitate retreat from Clermont. The

delators attempted the same system with the new Prefect and Col. Wardle,

having invited some of the Swiss officers to a ball, to which were likewise

invited people of all opinions, an information was lodged against him,

purporting that he wanted to corrupt the Swiss officers from their

allegiance. The Prefect sent the letter to Col. Wardle and said that it had

not made the slightest impression on his mind, and that he treated it as a

malicious report. The new Prefect adopted the same system as the General

and tranquillity is since perfectly restored.

Things have been taking a better turn since the dissolution of the _Chambre

introuvable_. Decazes, the present minister, is an able man, and if he is

not _contrarié_ by the _Libéraux_, he will keep the fanatical _Ultras_ in

good order. The Bishop of Clermont is a liberal man also, and as it seems

the wish of the present public functionaries here to conciliate, it is to

be hoped that their example will not be lost on the _bons vieux

gentilshommes_ of Auvergne.

I find an inexhaustible fund of entertainment from the conversation of M.

C----. He has so many interesting anecdotes to relate respecting the French

Revolution. With regard to his present occupations, which are directed

towards rural economy, he tells me that he has succeeded in a plan of

cleansing the town from its Augean filth, and making it very profitable to

himself; and that he calculates to obtain a revenue thereby of twenty

thousand franks annually. He has, in short, undertaken to be the grand

_scavenger_ of the town, and the Government, in addition to a salary of

2,500 francs per annum, which they give him for his trouble, give to him

the exclusive privilege of removing all the dung he can collect in the

precincts of the city, and of converting it to his own advantage. He began

by fitting up a large enclosure, walled on each side, and in which he

deposits all the filth he can collect in the stables, yards and streets of

Clermont. He sends his carts round the town every morning to get them

loaded. All their contents are brought to this repository, and shot out

there. Straw is then placed over this dung, and then earth or soil

collected from gullies and ravines, and this arranged _stratum super

stratum_, till it forms an immense compact cake of rich compost; and when

it has filled one of the yards and has completed a thickness of five feet,

he sells it to the farmers, who send their carts to carry it off. He has

divided this enclosure or repository into three or four compartments. The

compost therefore is prepared, and ready to be carried off in one yard,

while the others are filling. In this he has rendered a great benefit to

the public, for the Auvergnats are incurable in their custom of emptying

their _pots de chambre_ out of the windows; so that the streets every

morning are in a terrible state: but thanks to the industry of C---- his

cars go round to collect the precious material, and all is cleared away by

twelve o'clock. He collects bones too, and offal to add to the compost. He

conducted me to see his premises; but the odour was too strong....

I returned to Lausanne by the same route, leaving Clermont on the 6th

April, staying four days at Lyons and as many at Geneva. Young Wardle

accompanied me. We met with no other adventure on the road than having a

young Catholic priest, fresh from the seminary, for our travelling

companion, from Thiers to Roanne. This young man wished to convert Wardle

and myself to Catholicism.

Among many arguments that he made use of was that most silly one, which has

been so often sported by the Catholic theologians, viz.: that it is much

safer to be a Catholic than a Protestant, inasmuch as the Catholics do not

allow that any person can be saved out of the pale of their church, whereas

the Protestants do allow that a Catholic may be saved. I answered him that

this very argument made more against Catholicism than any other, and that

this intolerant spirit would ever prevent me (even had such an idea entered

into my head) of embracing such a religion. I then told him that, once for

all, I did not wish to enter into any theological disputes; that I had

fully made up my mind on these subjects; and that I would rather take the

opinion of a Voltaire or a Franklin on these matters than all the opinions

of all the theologians and churchmen that ever sat in council from the

Council of Nicsea to the present day. This silenced him effectually. Such

is the absurd line of conduct pursued by the Catholic priests of the

present day in France. Instead of reforming the discipline and dogmas of

their church and adapting it to the enlightened ideas of the present age,

they are sedulously employd in preaching intolerant doctrines, and reviving

absurd legends, and pretended miracles, which have been long ago consigned

to contempt and oblivion by all rational Catholics; and by this they hope

to re-establish the ecclesiastical power in its former glory and

preponderance. Vain hope! By the American and French Revolutions a great

light is gone up to the _Gentiles_. Catholicism is on its last legs, and

they might as soon attempt to replace our old friend and school

acquaintance Jupiter on the throne of heaven, as to re-establish the Papal

power in its pristine splendour; to borrow the language of the _Pilgrim's

Progress_, the Giant _Pope_ will be soon as dead as the Giant _Pagan_.

On arrival at Lyons we put up at the _Hôtel du Parc_, where I found cheaper

and better entertainment than at the _Hôtel du Nord_.

My friend young Wardle has fallen in love with a very beautiful _cafetière_

at Lyons', and spends a great part of his time in the _café_, at which this

nymph administers, and looks at her, _sighs, looks and sighs again_. It is

not probable however that he will succeed in his suit, for she has been

courted by very many others and no one has succeeded. She remains constant

to her _good man_, and the breath of calumny has never ventured to assail

her. I met one day at Lyons with my old friend W----s of Strassburg, who

was a Lieutenant in the 25th Regiment in the French service and served in

the battle of Waterloo.[105] He is now here and being on _demi-solde_,

employs himself in a mercantile house here as principal commis. He dined

with us and we passed a most pleasant day together.

I arrived on the 20th April at Lausanne.

* * * * *

After remaining some weeks, at Lausanne on my return from Clermont, I

determind on making a pedestrian trip as far as Bern and Neufchatel

previous to returning into Italy, which it is my intention to do in

September. I sent on my portmanteau accordingly to Payerne near Avenches,

intending to pay a visit and pass three days with my friend, the Revd. Mr.

J[omini],[106] the rector of the parish there, from whom I had received a

pressing invitation. I was acquainted at Lausanne with his daughter, Mme

C----, and was much pleased in her society. She had great talent of

conversation, and I never in my life met with a lady possessed of so much

historical knowledge. I started on the 27th June from Lausanne, passed the

first night at Mondon and the next afternoon arrived at Avenches, the

_Aventicum_ of the ancient Romans. Payerne is only a mile distant from

Avenches, and I was received with the utmost cordiality by the worthy

pastor and his daughter. The scenery on the road to Avenches is very like

the scenery in all the rest of the Canton de Vaud, viz., alternate mountain

and valley, lofty trees, and every spot capable of cultivation bearing some

kind of produce; corn just ready for the sickle and fruit such as cherries

and strawberries in full bloom. Avenches has an air of great antiquity and

looks very gloomy withal, which forms a striking contrast to the neat, well

built towns and villages of this Canton on the banks of the lake Leman

where everything appears so stirring and cheerful. Avenches, on the

contrary, is very dull, and there is little society.

At Mr. J[omini] there were, besides his daughter, his son and his son's

wife. All the _ministres_ (for such is the word in use to designate

Protestant clergymen and you would give great offence were you to call them

_prêtres_) have a fixed salary of 100£ sterling per annum, with a house and

ground attached to the cure; so that by farming a little they can maintain

then? families creditably. M. Jomini lost his wife some time ago, and still

remains a widower.

I left Payerne on the fifth of July and walked to the _campagne_ of M. de

T[reytorre]us,[107] situated on the banks of the lake Morat. It is a very

pretty country house, spacious and roomy, and I was received with the

utmost cordiality by M. de T[reytorrens] and his amiable family. He is a

very opulent proprietor in this part of the country, and has spent part of

his life in England. He is a dignified looking man, a little too much

perhaps of the old school and no friend to the innovations and changes

arising from the French Revolution. Having lived much among the Tory

nobility of England, he has imbibed their ideas and views of things. His

son is now employed in one of the public offices in London. His wife and

three daughters, one of whom is married to a _ministre_, dwell with him.

With this family I passed three days in the most agreeable manner. I find

the style and manner of living of the _noblesse_ (or country gentlemen, as

we should style them) of Switzerland very comfortable, in every sense of

the word. I wish my friends the French would take more to a country life,

it would essentially benefit the nation. The way of living in M. de

T[reytorre]us family is as follows. A breakfast of coffee and bread and

butter is served up to each person separately in their own room, or in the

_Salle à manger_, Before dinner every one follows his own avocation or

amusement. At one, the family assemble to dinner which generally consist of

soup, _bouilli, entrées_ of fish, flesh and fowl, _entremets_ of

vegetables, a _rôti_ of butcher's meat, fowl or game, pastry and desert.

The wine of the country is drunk at dinner as a table wine, and _old_ wines

of the country or wines of foreign growth are handed round to each guest

during the desert. After dinner coffee and liqueurs are served. After an

hour's conversation or repose, promenades are proposed which occupy the

time till dusk. Music, cards or reading plays fill up the rest of the

evening, till supper is announced at nine o'clock, which is generally as

substantial as the dinner.

On taking leave of Mr. de T[reytorre]ns' family I walked to the banks of

the lake Neufchâtel, having a stout fellow with me to carry my _sac-de

nuit_. On arrival at the lake I crossed over in a boat to Neufchâtel, which

lies on the other side. I remained there the whole of the day. It is a very

pretty neat little city, in a romantic position. Its government is a

complete anomaly. Neufchâtel forms a component part of the Helvetic

confederacy, and yet the inhabitants are vassals of the King of Prussia,

and the aristocracy are proud of this badge of servitude. The King of

Prussia however does not at all interfere with its internal government, and

his supremacy is in no other respects useful to him than in giving him a

slight revenue. French is the language spoken in the canton. There is a

marked distinction of rank all over Switzerland, except in Geneva, Vaud and

the small democratic cantons such as Zug and Schwytz, where it is merely

nominal. In short, tranquillity is the order of the day. Each rank respects

the privileges of the other and the peasant, however rich, is not at all

disposed to vary from his usual mode of life or to ape the noble; and

hence, tho' sumptuary laws are no longer in force, they continue so

virtually and the peasantry in all the German cantons adhere strictly to

the national costume.

BERN, 14 July.

I put myself in the diligence that plies between Neufchatel and Bern at

nine p.m., on the 12 July, and the following morning put up at the _Crown

Inn_ in the city of Bern, in the _Pays Allemand_, whereas the French

cantons are termed the _Pays Romand_. Bern is a remarkably elegant city as

much so as any in Italy, and much cleaner withal. The streets are broad,

and in most of them are _trottoirs_ under arcades. There are a great number

of book-sellers here, and the best editions of the German authors are to be

procured very cheap. Bern is situated on an eminence forming almost an

island as it were in the middle of the river Aar; steep ravines are on all

sides of it; and there is a bridge over the Aar to keep up the

communication; and as the borders of the island, on which the city stands,

are very steep, a zig-zag road, winding along the ravines, brings you to

the city gates. These gates are very superb. On each side of the gates are

two enormous white stone bears, the emblems of the tutelary genius of this

city. The houses are very lofty and solidly built. The promenades in the

environs of Bern are the finest I have seen anywhere, and the grounds

allotted to this purpose are very tastefully laid out. These promenades are

paved with gravel and cut thro' the forests, that lie on the _coteaux_ and

ravines on the other side of the Aar. There are several neat villas in the

neighbourhood of these promenades, and there are _cafés_ and _restaurants_

for those who chuse to refresh themselves. Such is the beauty of these

walks, that one feels inclined to pass the whole day among them. They are

laid out in such variety, and are so multiplied, that you often lose your

way; you are sure however to be brought up by a _point de vue_ at one or

other of the angles of the zig-zag; and this serves as a guide _pour vous

orienter_, as the French say. Another favorite promenade is a garden, in

the town itself, that environs the whole city from which and from the

superb terrace of the Cathedral you have a magnificent view of the glaciers

that tower above the Grindelwald and Lauterbrunn. The immense forests that

are in the neighbourhood of Bern form a striking contrast with the

cornfields in the vallies and on the _coteaw._ There are but few vineyards

in the neighbourhood of Bern.

BERN, 16 July.

The Diet is held this year in Bern and it is now sitting. I have met with

the two Deputies of the Canton de Vaud, MM. P----- and M-----. I am glad to

hear from them that the animosity existing between the two cantons of Bern

and Vaud is beginning to subside. M. P------ has made a most able and

conciliating speech at the Diet. Still there is a good deal of jealousy

rankling in the breast of the Bern _noblesse_ and the _avulsumimperium_ is

a very sore subject with them. I recollect once at Lausanne meeting with a

young man of one of the principal families of Bern, who had been hi the

English service. The conversation happened to turn on the emancipation of

the Canton de Vaud from the domination of Bern, when the young man became

perfectly furious and insisted that the Vaudois had no right whatever to

their liberty, for that the Canton of Bern had purchased the province of

Vaud from the Dukes of Savoy. _"En un mot" (said he), "ils sont nos

esclaves, nos ilotes et ils sont aussi clairement notre propriété que les

nègres de la Jamaïque le sont de leurs maîtres"_

A very harsh measure has lately been passed in the Diet, evidently

suggested by the aristocracy of Bern, which tended to fine and punish those

Swiss officers who remained in Prance to serve under Napoleon after his

return from Elba, and who did not obey the order of the Diet which recalled

them. A very able objection has been made to this measure in a _brochure,_

wherein it is stated that many of these officers had no means of living

out of France and that, on a former occasion, when a number of Swiss

officers were serving the English Government and were employed in America

in the war against the United States in 1812 and 1818, the Diet, then under

Napoleon's influence, issued a decree recalling them and commanding them to

quit the English service forthwith. This they refused to do and continued

to serve. No notice whatever was taken of this act of disobedience, when

they returned to their native country on being disbanded in 1814, and they

were very favourably received. Why then, says the author of this pamphlet,

is a similar act of disobedience to pass unnoticed in one instance and to

be so severely punished in another? Or do you wish to prove that your

vengeance is directed only against those who remained in France, to fight

for its liberties, when invaded by a foreign foe, while those who remained

in America to fight against the liberties and existence of the American

Republic you have received with applause and congratulation? Is such

conduct worthy of Republicans? O, fie!

Such an argument is in my opinion convincing for all the world except for

an English Tory, a French _Ultra_ or a Bern Oligarch.

The Arsenal here is well worth seeing; here is a superb collection of

ancient armour, much of which were the spoils of the Austrian and

Burgundian chivalry, who fell in their attempts to crush Helvetic liberty.

By way of shewing how fond the Bernois are of old institutions and customs,

they have been at the trouble to catch three or four bears and keep them in

a walled pit in the city, where they are well fed and taken care of. The

popular superstition is that the bears entertained in this manner

contribute to the safety of the commonwealth; and this establishment

continued ever in full force, until the dissolution of the old Confederacy

took place and the establishment in its place of the Helvetic Republic

under the influence of the French directorial government. The custom, then,

appearing absurd and useless, was abolished, and the bears were sold. But

since the peace of 1814 other bears have been caught and are nourishd, as

the former ones were, at the expence of the state.

Bern derives its name from _Büren_, the German word for _Bears_ (plural

number). Only the French spell _Berne_, with an _e_ at the end of it.

There are no theatrical amusements going forward here. Cards and now and

then a little music form the evening recreations.

In the inn at Bern I became acquainted with a most delightful Milanese lady

and her son. Her name is L------; she is the widow of an opulent banker at

Milan and has a large family of children. She was about thirty-eight years

of age and is still a remarkably handsome woman. Time has made very little

impression on her and she unites very pleasing manners with a great taste

for litterature. She is greatly proficient in the English language and

litterature, which she understands thoroughly, tho' she speaks it with

difficulty. She is an enthusiastic admirer of Shakespeare, Milton and

Byron. She had been to Zurich for her son, who was employed in a commercial

house there, in order to take him back with her into Italy. She spoke

French as well as Italian, and her son had a very good knowledge of German.

She offered me a seat in her carriage, on the understanding that I was

going to Lausanne, where she intended to stop a day or two. An offer of the

kind made by so elegant and fascinating a woman you may be assured I did

not scruple to accept, and I was in hopes of improving on this acquaintance

and renewing it at Milan. Indeed, did not business oblige me to remain some

weeks at Lausanne, I should certainly offer my services to escort her all

the way to Milan. She had letters of introduction for Lausanne, and during

her stay there I acted as her _cicerone_, to point out the most interesting

objects and points of view, which the place affords.

[104] Louis Charles Joseph Gravier, vicomte de Vergennes d'Alonné, was the

son of the Comte de Vergennes, who was minister under the reign of

Louisi XVI. Born at Constantinople in 1766, he took service at the

early age of thirteen, was promoted captain in 1782 and colonel in

1788. Having emigrated in 1791, he served in Condé's army, then took

service in England from 1795 to 1797. On the 3rd March, 1815, he

re-entered the army as "maréchal de camp," and, on the 2nd November of

that same year, was promoted general commander of the department of

Puy de Dôme. He retired on the 8th March, 1817, and seems to have been

much regretted at Clermont. Died 1821.--ED.

[105] Jean François Wlnkens, born at Aix-la-Chapelle In 1790, is mentioned

in the records of the French War Office as having served in the 25th

Regiment at Waterloo. His family may have belonged to Strassburg.--ED.

[106] Pierre Jacques Jomini, Protestant minister at Avenches from 1808 to

1819.--ED.

[107] The Treytorrens family, of old nobility and fame, now extinct,

possessed a large estate at Guévaux, on the borders of the lake of

Morat.--ED.

CHAPTER XIV

SEPTEMBER 1817-APRIL 1818

Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples--Residence at

Naples--The theatre of San Carlo--Rossini's operas--Gaming in Naples--The

_Lazzaroni_--Public writers--Carbonarism--Return to Rome--Christmas eve at

Santa Maria Maggiore--Mme Dionigi--Theatricals--Society in Rome--The papal

government--Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino--Louis Napoleon, ex-King of

Holland--Pope Pius VII--Thorwaldsen--Granet--The Holy Week in Rome--The

Duchess of Devonshire--From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.

I started from Lausanne with a party of two ladies in a Milanese _vettura_

on the morning of the 20th September. We arrived at Milan on the 25th late

in the evening. On passing the Simplon we met with three or four men who

had the appearance of soldiers, and asked for alms something in the style

of the old Spanish soldier who accosted Gil Blas on his first journey. Our

ladies were a little alarmed. On travelling over the plains of Lombardy,

one of these ladies, who had never before been out of her country

(Switzerland) and was consequently accustomed to see the horizon bounded at

a very short distance by immense mountains on all sides, was much alarmed,

on arrival at the plain, at seeing no bounds to the horizon; she was

apprehensive of _falling down_ and _rolling over_. Her remark reminded me

of one of the objections made to the project of Columbus's voyage in

discovery of a western passage to India; it was said that in consequence of

the rotundity of the earth they would roll down and never be able to get up

again. The sensation experienced by my fellow traveller, however, may be

well accounted for and explained by any one who from a plain surface

situated on a great height looks down without a railing or balcony.

These ladies were quite delighted with the splendour and bustle of Milan

and particularly when I took them to the _Scala_ theatre, where a very

splendid _Ballo_ was given, intitled _Sammi Ré d'Egitto_. The scenery and

decorations were magnificent, being taken from Denon's drawings of Egyptian

views, and the costume was exceedingly appropriate. My fellow travellers

were much struck at the appearance of the horses on the stage and the

grotesque dancing. The last scene was the most magnificent. It represented

the great Pyramids, on the angles of which stood a line of soldiers from

the _base_ to the _apex_ holding lighted torches. The _coup d'oeil_ was

enchanting. I took the ladies to see my old friend Girolamo and in fine was

their _cicerone_ every where. We remained only four days at Milan and then

proceeded to Florence, where we arrived on the 7th October. We employed six

days for our journey and one day we halted at Bologna. After remaining four

days at Florence and taking the Radicofani road we arrived at Rome the 18th

October.

At Rome I met my friend P.G. and his wife who were travelling towards

Naples and I likewise made two very pleasant acquaintances, the one a

Portuguese, the other a Milanese. The Milanese is a cousin of the

Neapolitan minister Di M------; and the Portuguese (M. de N------) had been

employed by his Government in a diplomatic capacity at Vienna. At Rome I

engaged appartments from the 20th of December for three months and then

started for Naples, with the intention of passing two months there, and

returning to Rome, to be in time to witness the fete at Christmas Eve. At

Velletri I met with a Jamaica family, Mr and Mrs O------, with their

daughter and daughter-in-law; and we were strongly advised to take an

escort as far as _Torre tre ponti_, being obliged to start very early from

Velletri in order to reach Terracina before night-fall. Nothing however

occurred and we arrived at Terracina without accident. The rascally

innkeeper there made Mr O------ pay forty franks for each miserable room

that he occupied, and fifteen franks a head for his supper; he was very

insolent with all. I was rejoiced to find that in one instance he failed in

his hopes of extortion. As he is obliged by law to furnish supper and beds

at a fixed price to those who travel with _vetturini_ and are _spesati_,

he, whenever a _vetturino_ arrives locks up all his decent chambers and

says that they are engaged, in order to keep them for those travellers who

may arrive in their own carriages and whom he can fleece _ad libitum_. A

friend of mine and his lady, who were travelling in their own carriage,

had, in order to avoid this extortion, engaged with a _vetturino_ to

conduct them from Naples to Rome with _his horses_, but their own carriage,

and, had stipulated to be _spesati_. Mine host of Terracina, seeing a smart

carriage drive up, ordered one of his best rooms to be got ready, ushered

them in himself and returnd in half an hour to ask what they would have for

supper; when to his great astonishment and mortification, they referred him

for the arrangement of the supper to the _vetturino_, saying that they were

_spesati_. He then began to curse and swear, said that they should not have

that room, and wanted to turn them out of it forcibly; but my friend Major

G---- took up one of his pistols, which were lying on the table, and told

the innkeeper that if he did not cease to molest them and instantly quit

the room, he would blow out his brains. This threat had the desired effect,

and he withdrew. It appears that this fellow has in the end outwitted

himself, for most people now, who travel on this road in their own

carriage, chuse to travel with a _vetturino_ and his horses and are

_spesati_, solely in order to avoid the extortion practised upon them.

We arrived at Naples on the 29th October without accident. A _buona grazia_

of a _scudo_ at the frontier obviated the delay which would otherwise have

occurred in examining our baggage by the _douaniers_. I put up at No 1

_Largo St Anna di Palazzo_, near the _Strada di Toledo_, at the house of

one Berlier, who had been a domestic of poor Murat's. The Austrian troops

being now withdrawn, the military cordon of sentinels from the frontier to

Naples is kept up by the Neapolitan troops; but what a contrast between the

vigilance of the Austrian sentinels, and the negligence of the Neapolitans!

The last time I travelled on this road, I never failed, after dusk, to hear

the shout of _Wer da?_ of the Austrian sentries, long before I came up to

them, and I always found them alert. Now that the cordon was Neapolitan, I

always found the sentries either asleep, or playing at cards with their

companion (the sentries being double), both having left their arms at the

place where they were posted. At night I have no doubt they all fall

asleep, so that three or four active _banditti_ might come and cut the

throats of the whole chain of sentries in detail.

30th October, 1818.

I have begun my course of water drinking at the fountain of Sta Lucia.

Since I was here the last time, the theatre of St Carlo has been finished

and I went to visit it the second night after my arrival. It is a noble

theatre and of immense size, larger it is said than the _Scala_ at Milan,

tho' it does not appear so. The profusion of ornament and gilding serves to

diminish the appearance of its magnitude. It is probably now the most

magnificent theatre in Europe. The performance was _Il Babiere di Siviglia_

by Rossini, and afterwards a superb _Ballo_ taken closely from Coleman's

_Blue-Beard_ and arranged as a _Ballo_ by Vestris. The only difference lies

in the costume and the scenery; for here the _Barbe Bleue,_ instead of

being a Turkish Pacha, as in Coleman's piece, is a Chinese Mandarin, and

the decorations are all Chinese. A great deal of Scotch music is introduced

in this _Ballo,_ and seems to give great satisfaction. At the little

theatre of San Carlino I witnessed the representation of Rossini's

_Cenerentola,_ a most delightful piece. The young actress who did the part

of Cenerentola acted it to perfection and sung so sweetly and correctly,

that it would seem as if the _rôle_ were composed on purpose for her. The

part of Don Magnifico was extremely well played, and those of the sisters

very fairly and appropriately. The three actresses who did the part of

Cenerentola and her sisters, were all handsome, but she who did Cenerentola

surpassed them all; she was a perfect beauty and a grace. I think the music

of this opera would please the public taste in England. Rossini seems to

have banished every other musical composer from the stage.

I have seen, at the Theatre of San Carlo, the _Don Giovanni_ of Mozart; but

certainly, after being accustomed to the extreme vivacity of Rossini's

style, the music, even of the divine Mozart, appears to go off heavily.

There is too much of what the French call _musique de fanfares_ in the

opera of _Don Giovanni_ and I believe most of the Italians are of my way of

thinking.

We have just heard of the death of the poor Princess Charlotte. I am no

great admirer of Kings and Queens; and yet I must own, I could not help

feeling regret for the death of this princess. I had formed a very high

opinion of her, from many traits in her character; and I fancied and hoped

that she was destined to redeem England from the degradation and bad odour

into which she had been plunged by the borough-mongers and bureaucrats,

engendered by the Pitt system. She had liberal ideas and an independent

spirit. I really almost caught myself shedding tears at this event, and had

she been buried here, I should have gone to scatter flowers upon her tomb:

His saltem accumulem donis, et fungar inani

Munere.[108]

Has no royalist or ministerial poet been found to do hommage to her

_manes_? Had she lived to be Queen of England she would have found a

thousand venal pens to give her every virtue under heaven.

There is a professor of natural philosophy now at Naples, of the name of

Amici, from Modena, who has invented a microscope of immense power. The

circulation of the blood in the thigh of a frog (the coldest animal in

nature), when viewed thro' this microscope, appears to take place with the

rapidity of a Swiss torrent.

Since I have been here, I have once more ascended Vesuvius; there was no

eruption at all this time, but I witnessed the sight of a stream of red-hot

liquid lava flowing slowly down the flank of the mountain. It was about two

and a half feet broad.

In my letters from Naples, the last time I was there, I gave you some idea

of the state of society. Among the upper classes gaming is reduced to a

science and is almost exclusively the order of the day. There is little or

no taste for litterature among any part of the native society. The upper

classes are sensualists; the middling ignorant and superstitious. With

regard to the _Lazzaroni_, I do not think that they at all deserve the ill

name that has been given to them. They always seem good humoured and

willing to work, when employment is given to them; and they do not appear

at all disposed to disturb the public peace, which, from their being so

numerous and formidable a body, they could easily do. The Neapolitan

dialect has a far greater affinity to the Spanish than to the Tuscan, and

there are likewise, a great many Greek words in it. When one takes into

consideration the extreme ignorance that prevails among the Neapolitans in

general, one is astonished that such a prodigy of genius as Filangieri

could have sprung up among them. What talent, application, deep research

and judgment were united in that illustrious man! And yet there are many

Neapolitans of rank who have never heard of him. Would you believe that on

my asking one of the principal booksellers in Naples for Filangieri's work

on legislation (an immortal work which has called forth the admiration and

eulogy of the greatest geniuses of the age, of which Benjamin Franklin and

Sir Wm Jones spoke in the most unqualified terms of approbation; a work

which has been translated into all the languages of Europe), I was told by

the bookseller that he had never heard either of the author or of his work.

A very curious thing at Naples is the number of public writers; who compose

letters and memorials in booths, fitted up in the streets. As the great

majority of the people are so ignorant as to be unable to read or write, it

follows that when they receive letters, they must find somebody to read

them for them and to write the answers required. They accordingly, on the

receipt of a letter, bring it to one of these public scribes, ask him to

read it for them and to write an answer, for which trouble he receives a

fixed pay. These writers are thus let into the secrets of family affairs of

more than half of the city; and as some-of them are in the pay of the

Government for communicating intelligence, you may guess how formidable

they may become to liberty and how dangerous an engine in the hands of a

despotic Government.

It appears that the theatre of San Carlo is principally kept up by gaming;

that is to say, the managers and proprietors would not undertake the

direction of it without the Gaming Bank being annexed to it; for otherwise

they would lose money, the expence of the Opera on account of the

magnificent decorations of the Ballets being very great, which the receipts

of the theatre are insufficient to meet; but the profits of the Casino

cover all and amply reimburse the proprietors.

With regard to political opinions here there is a great stagnation. It

costs the Neapolitans too much trouble to think and reflect. M-----, the

principal minister, is however no favourite; neither is N-----, who has

quitted the Austrian service, and is nominated Captain-General of the

Neapolitan army.[109]

There is a great talk about the increase of Carbonarism. You will probably

ask me what Carbonarism means. I am not initiated in the secret of the

Carbonari; but as far as I can understand, this sect or secret society has

its mysteries like modern Free-masonry or like the Orphics of old, and

several progressive degrees of initiation are required. Its secret object

is said to be the emancipation of Italy from a foreign despotism and the

forming of a government purely national. This is the reason why this sect

is regarded with as much jealousy by the different governments of Italy as

the early Christians used to be by the Pagan Emperors. Great proofs of

courage, constancy and self denial are required from the initiated; and

very many fail, or do not rise beyond the lower degrees of initiation, for

it is very difficult for an Italian to withstand sensuality. But the

leaders of this sect are perfectly in the right to require such proofs, for

no man is fit to be trusted with any political design whatever, who has not

obtained the greatest mastery over his passions. The word _Carbonari_, I

need not tell you, means _Coalmen_; the Italian history presents many

examples of secret societies taking their appellation from some mechanical

profession.

I have now been nearly two months in Naples, and the _zampogne_ or

bag-pipes, which play about the streets at night, announce the speedy

approach of Christmas, so that I shall soon take my departure for Rome.

* * * * *

I left Naples on the 18th of December and arrived at Rome on the 22d. I am

settled in my old lodgings, No. 29 _Piazza di Spagna_. Nothing worth

mentioning occurred during the journey.

The fete, of the birth of Christ held at Santa Maria Maggiore on the

evening of the 24th December is of the most splendid description, and

attended by an immense crowd of women. Guns are fired on the moment that

the birth of the Saviour is announced, and this event occurs precisely at

midnight. The Romans seem to rejoice as much at the anniversary of this

event, as if it happened for the first time, and as if immediate temporal

advantage were to be derived from it.

I have mixed a good deal in society in Rome since my return from Naples.

Among other acquaintance I must particularly distinguish Mme Dionigi, a

very celebrated lady, possessing universality of talent.[110] She is well

known all over Italy, for the extent of her litterary attainments, but more

particularly for her proficiency in the fine arts, above all in painting,

of which she is an adept. She also possesses the most amiable qualities of

the heart, and is universally beloved and respected for the worth of her

private character, and for her generous disposition. She has all the

vivacity of intellect belonging to youth, tho' now nearly eighty-six years

of age,[111] and of a very delicate physical constitution; in short she

affords, and I often tell her so, the most striking proof of the

immortality of the soul. There is a _conversazione_ at her house twice a

week, where you meet with foreign as well as Italian _litterati_, and

persons of distinction of all nations, tongues and languages. Her eldest

daughter, Mme D'Orfei, is an excellent _improvisatrice_, and has frequently

given us very favourable specimens of the inspiration which breathes itself

in her soul. I have likewise witnessed the talent of two very extraordinary

_improvisatori_, the one a young girl of eighteen years of age, by name

Rosa Taddei. She is the daughter of the proprietor of the _Teatro della

Valle_ at Rome, and sometimes performs herself in dramatic pieces; yet,

strange to say, tho' she is an admirable _improvisatrice_ and possesses a

thorough classic and historical knowledge, she is but an indifferent

actress.

It is a great shame that her father obliges her to act on the stage in very

inferior parts, when she ought only to exhibit on the tripod. I assisted at

an _Accademia_ given by her one evening at the _Teatro della Valle_, when

she improvised on the following subjects, which were proposed by various

members of the audience: 1st, _La morte d'Egeo_; 2dy, _La Madre Ebrea_;

3rd, _Coriolano alle mura di Roma_; 4th, _Ugolino_; 5th, _Saffo e Faone_;

6th, in the Carnaval with the following _intercalario: "Maschera ti

conosco, tieni la benda al cor_!" which _intercalario_ compels a rhyme in

_osco_, a most difficult one. The _Madre Ebrea_ and _Coriolano_ were given

in _ottava rima_ with a _rima obbligata_ for each stanza. The _Morte

d'Egeo_ was given in _terza rima_. Her versification appeared to be

excellent, nor could I detect the absence or superabundance, of a single

syllable. She requires the aid of music, chuses the melody; the audience

propose the subject, and _rima obbligata_, and the _intercalario_, where it

is required. In her gestures, particularly before she begins to recite, she

reminded me of the description given of the priestess of. Delphi. She walks

along the stage for four or five minutes in silent meditation on the

subject proposed, then suddenly stops, calls to the musicians to play a

certain symphony and then begins as if inspired. Among the different rhimes

in _osco_, a gentleman who sat next to me proposed to her _Cimosco_. I

asked him what _Cimosco_ he meant; he replied a Tuscan poet of that name.

For my part, I had never heard of any other of that name than the King

_Cimosco_ in the _Orlando Furioso_, who makes use of fire-arms; and Rosa

Taddei was, it appears, of my opinion, since this was the _Cimosco_ she

chose to characterise; and she made thereby a very neat and happy

comparison between the gun of Cimosco and the arrow of Cupid. This talent

of the _improvisatori_ is certainly wonderful, and one for which there is

no accounting. It appears peculiar to the Italian nation alone among the

moderns, but probably was in vogue among the ancient Greeks also. It is

certain that Rosa Taddei gives as fine thoughts as are to be met with in

most poets, and I am very much tempted to incline to Forsyth's opinion that

Homer himself was neither more nor less than an _improvisatore_, the Greek

language affording nearly as many poetic licences as the Italian, and the

faculty of heaping epithet on epithet being common in both languages.

The other genius in this wonderful art is Signer Sgricci. He is so far

superior to Rosa Taddei in being five or six years older, in being a very

good Latinist and hi _improvising_ whole tragedies on any subject, chosen

by the audience. When the subject is chosen, he develops his plan, fixes

his _dramatis personae_ and then strikes off in _versi sciolti_. He at

times introduces a chorus with lyric poetry. I was present one evening at

an _Accademia_ given by him in the Palazzo Chigi. The subject chosen was

_Sophonisba_ and it was wonderful the manner in which he varied his plot

from that of every other dramatic author on the same subject. He _acted_

the drama, as well as composed it, and pourtrayed the different characters

with the happiest effect. The ardent passion and impetuosity of Massinissa,

the studied calm philosophy and stoicism of Scipio, the romantic yet

dignified attachment of Sophonisba, and the plain soldierlike honorable

behaviour of Syphax were given in a very superior style. I recollect

particularly a line he puts in the mouth of Scipio, when he is endeavouring

to persuade Massinissa to resist the allurements and blandishments of love:

Chè cor di donne è laberinto, in quale

Facil si perde l'intelletto umano.

This drama he divided into three acts, and on its termination he improvised

a poem in _terza rima_ on the subject of the contest of Ajax and Ulysses

for the armour of Achilles.

Wonderful, however, as this act of improvising may appear, it is not

perhaps so much so as the mathematical faculty of a youth of eight years of

age, Yorkshireman by birth, who has lately exhibited his talent for

arithmetical calculation _improvised_ in England and who in a few seconds,

from mental calculation, could give the cube root of a number containing

fifteen or sixteen figures.

Is not all this a confirmation of Doctor Gall's theory on craniology? viz.,

that our faculties depend on the organisation of the scull. I think I have

seen this frequently exemplified at Eton. I have known a boy who could not

compose a verse, make a considerable figure in arithmetic and geometry; and

another, who could write Latin verse with almost Ovidian elegance, and yet

could not work the simplest question in vulgar fractions. Indeed, I think

there seems little doubt that we are born with dispositions and

propensities, which may be developed and encouraged, or damped and checked

altogether by education.

I have become acquainted with several families at Rome, so that I am at no

loss where to spend my evenings. Music is the never failing resource for

those with whom the spirit of conversation fails. The society at Rome is

perfectly free from etiquette or _gêne_. When once presented to a family

you may enter their house every evening without invitation, make your bow

to the master and mistress of the house, enter into conversation or not as

you please. You may absent yourself for weeks together from these

_conversazioni_, and nobody will on your re-appearance enquire where you

have been or what you have been doing. In short, in the intercourse with

Roman society, you meet with great affability, sometimes a little _ennui_,

but no _commérage_. The _avvocati_ may be said to form almost exclusively

the middling class in Rome, and they educate their families very

respectably. This class was much caressed by the French Government during

the time that Rome was annexed to the French Empire, and most of the

employés of the Government at that time were taken from this class. I have

met with several sensible well-informed people, who have been accurate

observers of the times, and had derived profit in point of instruction from

the scenes they had witnessed.

The Papal Government began, as most of the restored governments did, by

displacing many of these gentlemen, for no other fault than because they

had served under the Ex-government, and replaced them by ecclesiastics, as

in the olden time. But the Papal Government very soon discovered that the

whole political machine would be very soon at a stand, by such an

_épuration_; and the most of them have been since reinstated. Consalvi, the

Secretary of State, is a very sensible man; he has hard battles to fight

with the _Ultras_ of Rome in order to maintain in force the useful

regulations introduced by the French Government, particularly the

organisation of a vigilant police, and the putting a stop to the murders

and robberies, which used formerly to be committed with impunity. The

French checked the system of granting asylum to these vagabonds altogether.

But on the restoration of the Papal Government a strong interest was made

to allow asylums, as formerly, to criminals. Many of these gentry began to

think that the good old times were come again, wherein they could commit

with impunity the most atrocious crimes; and no less than eighty persons

were in prison at one time for murder. This opened the eyes of the

Government, and Consalvi insisted on the execution of these men and carried

his point of establishing a vigilant police. The Army too has been put on a

better footing. The Papal troops are now clothed and disciplined in the

French manner, and make a most respectable appearance. The infantry is

clothed in white; the cavalry in green. The cockade is white and yellow. No

greater proof can be given of the merit and utility of the French

institutions in Italy, than the circumstance of all the restored

Governments being obliged by their interests (tho' contrary to their wishes

and prejudices), to adopt and enforce them. There is still required,

however, a severer law for the punishment of post office defalcations.

Simple dismissal is by no means adequate, when it is considered how much

mischief may ensue from such offences. A very serious offence of this

nature and which has made a great sensation, has lately occurred. As all

foreign letters must be franked, and as the postage to England is very

high, one of the clerks at the Post office had been in the habit of

receiving money for the franking of letters, appropriated it to his own

use, and never forwarded the letters. This created great inconvenience; a

number of families having never received answers to their letters and being

without the expected remittances, began to be uneasy and to complain. An

enquiry was instituted, and it was discovered that the clerk above

mentioned had been carrying on this game to a great extent. He used to tear

the letters and throw the fragments into a closet. Several scraps of

letters were thus discovered and, on being examined, he made an ample

confession of his practises. He was merely discharged, and no other

punishment was indicted on him. I am no advocate for the punishment of

death for any other crime but wilful murder; but surely this fellow was

worse than a robber, and deserved a greater severity of punishment.

ROME, 10th February, 1818.

The Carnaval has long since begun, and this is the heaven of the Roman

ladies. On my remarking to a lady that I was soon tired of it and after a

day or two found it very childish, she replied: "_Bisogna esser donna e

donna Italiana per ben godere de' piaceri del Carnevale_."

When I speak of the Carnaval, I speak of the last ten days of it which

precede Lent. The following is the detail of the day's amusement during the

season.

After dinner, which is always early, the masks sally out and repair to the

_Corso_. The windows and balconies of the houses are filled with

spectators, in and out of masks. A scaffolding containing an immense number

of seats is constructed in the shape of a rectangle, beginning at the

_Piazza del Popolo_, running parallel to the _Corso_ on each side, and

terminating near the _Piazza di Venezia_; close to which is the goal of the

horse race that takes place in this enclosure. Carriages, with persons in

them, generally masked, parade up and down this space in two currents, the

one ascending, the other descending the _Corso_. They are saluted as they

pass with showers of white comfits from the spectators on the seats of the

scaffolding, or from the balconies and windows on each side of the street.

These comfits break into a white powder and bespatter the clothes of the

person on whom they fall as if hair-powder had been thrown on them. This

seems to be the grand joke of this part of the Carnival. After the

carriages have paraded about an hour, a signal is given by the firing of a

gun that the horse race is about to begin. The carriages, on the gun being

fired, must immediately evacuate the _Corso_ in order to leave it clear for

the race; some move off and _rendezvous_ on the _Piazza del Popolo_ just

behind the scaffolding, from the foot of which the horses start; others

file off by the _Via Ripetta_ and take their stand on the _Piazza Colonna_.

The horse-race is performed by horses without riders, generally five or six

at a time. They are each held with a bridle or halter by a man who stands

by them, in order to prevent their starting before the signal is given; and

this requires no small degree of force and dexterity, as the horses are

exceedingly impatient to set off. The manes of the horses are dressed in

ribbands of different colours to distinguish them. Pieces of tin, small

bells and other noisy materials are fastened to their manes and tails, in

order by frightening the poor animals, to make them run the faster, and

with this view also squibs and crackers are discharged at them as they pass

along. A second gun is the signal for starting; the keepers loose their

hold, and off go the horses. The horse that arrives the first at the goal

wins the grand prize; and there are smaller ones for the two next. This

race is repeated four or five times till dusk, and then the company

separate and return home to dress. They then repair to the balls at the

different casinos, and at the conclusion of the ball, supper parties are

formed either at _restaurants_ or at each other's houses. During the time

occupied in the balls and promenades, as every body goes masked either in

character or in _domino_, there is a fine opportunity for pairing off, and

it is no doubt turned to account. This is a pretty accurate account of a

Roman Carnaval. A great deal of wit and repartee takes place among the

masks and they are in general extremely well supported, and indeed they

ought to be, for there is a great sameness of character assumed at every

masquerade, and very little novelty is struck out, except perhaps by some

foreigner, who chuses to introduce a national character of his own, which

is probably but little, or not at all, understood by the natives, and very

often not at all well supported by the foreigner himself. An American

gentleman once made his appearance as an Indian warrior with his

war-hatchet and calumet; he danced the war dance, which excited great

astonishment. He then presented his calumet to a mask, who not knowing what

the ceremony meant, declined it, when the Mohawk flourished his hatchet and

gave such a dreadful shriek as to set the whole company in alarm.[112] On

the whole this character was so little understood that it was looked upon

as a _mauvaise plaisanterie_.

The usual characters are Pulcinelli, Arlecchini, Spanish Grandees, Turks,

fortune tellers, flower girls and Devils; sometimes too they go in the

costume of the Gods and Goddesses of the ancient mythology. I observe that

the English ladies here prefer to appear without masks in the costume of

the Swiss and Italian peasantry.

There is a very large English society at Rome, and at some of the parties

here, you could suppose yourself in Grosvenor Square.

The late political changes have brought together in Rome many persons of

the most opposite parties and sentiments, who have fallen from the height

of political power and influence into a private station, but who enjoy

themselves here unmolested, and even protected by the Government, and are

much courted by foreigners. I have seen at the same masquerade, in the

_Teatro Aliberti_, in boxes close to each other, the Queen of Spam (mother

of Ferdinand VII), and the Princess Borghese, Napoleon's sister. In a box

at a short distance from them were Lucian Buonaparte, his wife and

daughters. Besides these, the following ex-Sovereigns and persons of

distinction, fallen from their high estate, reside in Rome, viz., King

Charles IV of Spain; the ex-King of Holland, Louis Buonaparte; the

abdicated King of Sardinia, Victor Emanuel; Don Manuel Godoy, the Prince of

Peace; Cardinal Fesch, and Madame Letitia, the mother of Napoleon.

I had an opportunity of being presented to Lucian, who bears the title of

Prince of Canino, before I left Rome for Naples, as on leaving the Pays de

Vaud I was charged by a Swiss gentleman to deliver a letter to him, the

purport of which was to state that he had rendered services to Joseph

Napoleon, when he was resident in that Canton, in consequence of which he

had been persecuted and deprived of his employment at Lausanne, which was

that of Captain of the Gendarmerie; and in the letter he sollicited

pecuniary assistance from the Prince of Canino. I rode out one morning to

the Villa of Ruffinella where the Prince resides and was very politely

received; it appeared however that the Prince was totally unacquainted with

the person who wrote the letter, nor was he at all aware of the

circumstances therein mentioned. I told him that I was but little

acquainted with the writer of the letter, but that he, on hearing of my

intention of going to Rome, asked me to deliver it personally. The Prince

told me he would write himself to the applicant on the subject. Here the

negotiation ended; but on my taking leave the Prince said he should be

happy to see me whenever I chose to call. The Prince has the character of

being an excellent father and husband, and seems entirely and almost

exclusively devoted to his family. He has a remarkably fine collection of

pictures and statues in his house at Rome.

I had an opportunity likewise of seeing the ex-King of Holland, Louis

Napoleon, who seems to be a most excellent and amiable man, and in fact

everybody agrees in speaking of him with eulogy.

With regard to the present Pontiff Pius VII, from the excellence of his

private character and virtues, and from his unassuming manners and goodness

of heart, there is but one opinion respecting him. Even those who do not

like the ecclesiastical Government, and behold in it the degradation of

Italy, render justice to the good qualities of Pius VII. He always

displayed the greatest moderation and humanity in prosperity, and in

adversity he was firm and dignified. In his morals and habits he is quite a

primitive Christian, and if he does not possess that great political talent

which has distinguished some of his predecessors, he has been particularly

fortunate and discriminating in the choice of his minister, in whom are

united ability, firmness, suavity of manner and unimpeachable character. I

think I have thus given a faithful delineation of Cardinal Consalvi.

ROME, March 12th.

I have made a very valuable acquaintance in M. K[ölle][113] the envoy of

the King of Würtemberg, to the Holy See. He is an enthusiastic admirer of

his countryman the poet Schiller, and thro' his means of procuring German

books, I am enabled to prosecute my studies in that noble language. An

Italian lady there having heard much of Schiller and Bürger, and not being

acquainted with the German language, requested me to make an Italian

translation of some of the pieces of those poets; chusing the _Leonora_ of

Bürger as one, and leaving to myself the choice of one from Schiller, I

represented the extreme difficulty of the task, but as she had read a

sonnet of mine on Lord Guildford's project of establishing an University in

the Italian language, she would not hear of any excuse. To work then I set,

and completed the translation of _Leonora_, together with one of Schiller's

_Feast of Eleusis_. These and my sonnet were the cause of my being

recommended for admission as a member of the Academy _degli Arcadi_ in Rome

and I received the pastoral name of _Galeso Itaoense_.

The Carnaval is now over and the ladies are all at their _Livres d'Heures_,

posting masses and prayers to the credit side, to counterbalance the sins

and frailties committed during the carnaval in the account which they keep

in the Ledger of Heaven. Dancing and masquerading are now over and

_Requiems_ and the _Miserere_ the order of the day at the _conversazioni_.

At Mr K[ölle]'s house I have become acquainted with Thorwaldsen, the famous

Danish sculptor, who is by many considered as the successful rival of

Canova; but their respective styles are so different, that a comparison can

scarce be made between them. Canova excels in the soft and graceful, in the

figures of youthful females and young men; Thorwaldsen in the grave, stern

and terrible. In a word, did I wish to have made a Hebe, a Venus, an

Antinoüs, an Apollo, I should charge Canova with their execution. Did I

wish for an Ajax, an Hercules, a Neptune, a Jupiter, I should give the

preference to Thorwaldsen.

In their private characters they much resemble each other, being both

honorable, generous, unassuming, and enthusiastic lovers of their

profession and of the fine arts hi general.

I have been to see a remarkably fine picture, by a modern French artist, of

the name of Granet. It may be considered as the _chef d'oeuvre_ of the

perspective or dioramic art. This picture represents the ulterior of the

convent of the Capuchins, near the Barberini Palace. The picture is by no

means a very large one; but the optical deception is astonishing. You fancy

you are standing at the entrance of a long hall and ready to enter it; on

looking at it, thro' a piece of paper rolled hi form of a speaking

trumpet--which by hiding from the sight the frame of the picture, prevents

the illusion from being dissipated--you suppose you could walk into the

hall; and each figure of a monk therein appears a real human creature, seen

from a long distance, so skilfully has the artist disposed his light and

shade. This picture has excited the admiration of connoisseurs, as well as

others, and it is universally proclaimed a masterpiece. M. Granet's house

is filled every day with persons coming to see this picture, and many

repeat their visits several tunes in the week. He has received several

orders for copies of this picture, and I fancy he begins to be tired of

eternally copying the same thing; for he told me that he wished that the

gentlemen who employed him would vary their subjects, and either chuse some

other themselves, or let him chuse for them. But no! such is the effect of

vogue and fashion, and such the despotic influence they exercise even over

the polite arts, that everybody must have a copy of Granet's picture of the

interior of the Convent of Capuchins _coûte que coûte_; so that poor Granet

seems bound to this Convent for life; except in the intervals of his

labours, he should hit off another subject, with equal felicity, and this

alone may perhaps serve to diminish the universal desire of possessing a

copy of the Convent. The original picture is destined for the King of

France.[114]

I remarked, in the collection of the works of this artist, a small picture

representing Galileo in prison, and a monk descending the steps of the

dungeon bringing him his scanty meal. A lamp hangs suspended from the roof,

in the centre of the dungeon, and the artist has made a very happy hit in

throwing the whole glare of the lamp on the countenance of Galileo, who is

seated reading a book, while the gaoler monk is left completely in the

shade. On seeing this I exclaimed: _Veramente, Signor Granet, e buonissimo

quel vostro concetto!_

Easter Tuesday.

I have at length seen all the fine sights that Rome affords during the Holy

Week, and have witnessed most of the religious ceremonies, viz., the

illuminated cross hi St Peter's on Good Friday; the high mass celebrated by

the Pope in person on Easter Sunday; the Papal benediction from a window of

the church above the façade on the same day; the illumination of the façade

of St Peter's on Easter Monday, and the _Girandola_ or grand firework at

the Castle of St Angelo on the same evening. The ceremony of the Pope

washing the feet of twelve poor men I did not see, for I could not get into

the Sistine Chapel, where the ceremony was performed: and at the mass

performed by the Pope in the Sistine Chapel I did contrive to enter, but

was so oppressed by the crowd and heat, that I almost fainted away, and was

very glad to get out of the Chapel again, before the ceremony commenced.

Why in the name of commonsense do they perform these ceremonies in the

Sistine Chapel which is small, instead of doing them in the church of St

Peter's, which would contain so many people and produce a much grander

effect?

A great many people are deprived of seeing the ceremonies in the Sistine

Chapel from the difficulty of getting in. The Pope's Swiss Guard attend on

that day in their ancient _costume_, with helmets, cuirasses and halberds;

these guard the entrance of the staircase leading to the Chapel, and they

have no small trouble and difficulty in maintaining order, as there is

always a great scuffle to get in, and they are particularly importuned by

German visitors, who thinking to be favored by them, in speaking to them in

their own language, vociferate; _Ich bin Ihr Landsmann!_ and hope by this

to obtain a preference.

On Friday evening a large Cross is erected before the grand altar; every

part of this Cross is filled with lamps, and at seven in the evening the

whole is illuminated. It has a most brilliant appearance and gives the

happiest _chiaro-oscuro_ effect to the statues, columns and pilasters which

abound in this vast temple. There is no other light on this occasion than

that reflected from the Cross. On Easter Sunday, when the Pope celebrates

high mass in the church of St Peter's, the Papal noble Guard, composed of

young men from the principal families in Rome, form a hedge on each side of

the nave of the church, from the entrance of the facade to the grand altar.

The street or interval formed between this double line may be about thirty

feet broad, and behind this guard or in any other part of the church, the

spectators may stand; but as these guards wear very large feathers in their

hats, they intercept very much the sight of those who stand behind them.

The uniform of the Papal Noble Guard is very splendid, being a scarlet

coat, covered with gold lace, white feathers, white breeches and long

military boots. The approach of the Pope is announced by the thunder of

cannon, and he is brought into the Church dressed in full pontificals, with

the triple Crown on his head, on a chair borne by men, _palanquin_ fashion;

he is conducted thro' the lane formed by the Papal Guard, and as he passes

he makes the sign of the cross several times with his finger, repeating the

words: _Urbi et Orbi_. He is then set down, with his face fronting the

baldachin, when he immediately takes off the tiara, and begins the

ceremony. That ended, he leaves the church in the same state, and then

ascends the staircase, in order to prepare to give the benediction, which

is usually given from a window above the facade of the church. The Pope is

there seated on a chair with the triple Crown on his head. Troops of

cavalry and infantry are drawn up in a semi-circle before the façade of the

church, and the whole vast _arena_ of the _Piazza di San Pietro_ is covered

with spectators. On a sudden his Holiness rises, extends his hands towards

heaven, then spreads them open, and seems as if he scattered something he

held in them on the crowd below; a silly young Frenchman who was standing

next to me said: _Le voilà! Le voilà qui arrache la bénédiction au ciel, et

qui la répand sur tout le monde!_ I could not refrain from laughing at this

sally, tho' I was much impressed with the solemnity of the scene, which I

think one of the grandest and most sublime I ever beheld. This ceremony

concluded, salves of ordnance were fired. The Pope retires amidst clouds of

smoke, and seems to vanish from the Earth. The troops then fire a _feu de

joie_ and move off, playing a march in quick time, and the company

disperse.

It is the étiquette on these occasions that no person be admitted either

into the church of St Peter or into the Sistine Chapel except in full

toilette. The ladies dress generally in black with caps and feathers; the

gentlemen either in black full dress or in military uniform. From the

variety of foreigners of all nations that are here, most of whom are

military men, or intitled to wear military uniforms, much is added to the

splendour of the spectacle.

On the evening of Easter Monday, I was present at the illumination of the

facade of St Peter's. Rows of lamps are suspended the whole length of the

columns and pilasters and all over the cupola, so that, when illuminated,

the style of the architecture is perceptible. The illumination takes place

almost at once. How it is managed I cannot say; but a splendid illuminated

temple seems at once to drop from the clouds, like the work of an

enchanter; I say _drop from the clouds_, because the illumination begins

from the cross and cupola and is communicated with the rapidity of

lightning to every other part of the edifice. About ten o'clock the same

evening the most magnificent firework perhaps in the world begins to play

from the castle of St Angelo. All kinds of shapes are assumed by these

fireworks: here are castles, pagodas, dragons, griffins, etc. These last

about an hour and then conclude, and with them conclude all the ceremonies

used in commemoration of the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus Christ.

Among the sights of Rome I must not omit that of a famous robber of the

name of Barbone, who was the terror of the whole surrounding country from

the depredations he committed. Having capitulated, and surrendered himself

to the Papal Government, he is now confined in the Castle of St Angelo as a

state prisoner. His wife, or a woman calling herself so, is confined there

with him, and she is said to be a woman of uncommon beauty. It is quite the

rage among the English here to go to see these _illustrious_ captives, and

Madame Barbone, superbly dressed, receives the hommage of the visitors. The

Duchess of D[evonshire] is said to have visited her, and made her a present

of a pearl necklace. I hope this is not true. Surely the Duchess, who is a

woman of talent and an encourager of the fine arts, might have found some

other object worthier of her munificence. What claims the mistress, or even

the wife, of a public robber can have on the generosity of travellers, I am

at a loss to conceive; but such is the _bizarrerie_ and _inconsequence_ of

the English, and no doubt, be this story of her Grace of D[evonshire]

having given a present true or not, it will occasion many other presents

being made to the captive Princess by a host of silly lord-aping English

men and women. Barbone has, it is said, made an excellent capitulation. He

has stipulated to be released from prison after a year and a day's

confinement, and no doubt he will then resume his old trade of brigandage.

In the meantime he has disbanded his troops, as he calls them; but will his

troops obey him, now that he is a captive? will they not rather chuse

another leader?

In the time of the French occupation, nothing of this kind took place; but

the present Government is weak and timid. I have not been myself to see

either Barbone or his wife, but I have heard quite enough about them; they

form one of the principal sights in Rome, and I am quite _unfashionable_ in

not having gone to visit them; for according to the opinion of my English

acquaintance, he who has not seen Barbone and his wife has seen nothing.

* * * * *

I started from Rome on the second of April with a _vetturino_, and on

arrival at Baccano, we struck off into a road on the right hand, and

arrived at Cività Castellana at a late hour. Cività Castellana merits no

further attention, except that it is supposed to stand on the site of the

ancient city of Veii. The following day at ten o'clock we reached the small

town of Narni. Here are the remains of a beautiful bridge, constructed over

the ravine, thro' which flows the river Nera, and which was built in the

time of Augustus. It affords a very favorable specimen of the Roman bridge

architecture. There is a small chapel here, and it contains, engraved on a

stone, a description of a miracle wrought here about four years ago by the

Virgin Mary, who saved the life of a postillion. He went into the river to

water his horses, when he was carried off by the torrent and would have

been drowned, had not the Virgin, on her aid being invoked, dashed into the

river and haled him out by the hair of his head. Of this story, to use a

phrase of old Josephus,[115] every one may believe as much as he thinks

proper; but certain it is that the postillion made oath (which oath is

registered) that his life was saved by the Virgin Mary in this manner, and

he has put up a votive tablet at her shrine, which remains to this day,

commemorative of the event. There is also a Roman aqueduct in the

neighbourhood, eleven Italian miles in length.