From the foot of White Horse Rapids to the head of Lake La Barge the
Lewes river is said to be thirty miles. Midway it is joined by the
Tahkeena, and runs then through a wide valley, having cut many
channels, so that we found difficulty in keeping the right one. The
current and the wind were still with us.
We camped together with the Canadians: they had two good boats and two
canoes. We should have been a merry party, but for the mosquitos. We
caught plenty of fish; in every creek were trout and grayling; they
rose to a fly, to a black feather, or even to a scrap of cloth. We
trolled when moving, catching white fish and some salmon, proving that
no one need starve there at that time of the year.
We were fortunate with our guns, shooting many ducks and geese, several
swans, and a few grouse--probably ptarmigan. It was the breeding
season, yet we considered we were justified in killing what we needed
for our larder. Humming-birds were quite numerous, flitting about the
brilliant flowers which were everywhere. We saw ravens, some magpies
exactly like English ones, and several bald eagles.
We only shot one deer. At one of our camps a herd of some dozens
trotted past. All guns were instantly brought to bear, but as only one
contained a ball, but one animal fell. It was a caribou, very much
like a reindeer.
We saw a few bears, black and brown, and there were small ones called
silver-tips, as they have white throats and chins. Our friends assured
us they were fierce, and attack a man "on sight"; but we fancied this
was only a hunter's yarn, until we had proof that it is true. This was
what occurred:--
We were settled for the night in an exposed position, away from
stagnant water and bushes, as we found such spots a trifle freer than
others from mosquitos. All of us but Fan were scattered, fishing or
trying in the woods for birds, quite free from apprehension of anything
untoward happening. It was a beautiful night; the sun had set--that
is, it had just dipped behind some mountains to the north; the sky was
brilliant in purple, gold, and crimson fire, as it would remain till
three or four next morning, when we were to move on again. It was
late, eleven, I suppose, and we were all out of sight of camp, when Jim
and I--we were after ptarmigan--heard the crack of a rifle there.
"M'm," says Jim, "guess dat Fan ketch'm deer mebbe--welly good shot dat
klootchman."
I merely said that I hoped it was so, for he and I were having bad
luck, and were longing for meat; fish was palling on us. A few seconds
after we heard another shot.
"M'm," says Jim again, "my tink Fan got two deer; zat is welly good."
He had hardly ceased speaking when we heard a third report, and several
at quick intervals, at which I said, "Come, we'd better return and help
her," and we hastened back to camp.
When we came in sight of the river and our boats, we heard Fan calling.
It did not sound as if she were afraid, and yet we realised that she
was in earnest; so we hurried, and perceived her on a great log that
lay stretched across a narrow chasm in the cliff behind the tents, some
distance from the ground. There she stood, firmly planted, with a
rifle, looking intently at one spot below her. We called; she looked
at us delighted.
"Come on! quick, quick!" she cried. "My have got one silver-tip thar;
it is no dead, look out; but my tink he no can move! My cannot see him
no more, frow rocks in dere," and she pointed. "My have nosing hyar to
frow!"
At which, of course, we began to bombard the spot, and as nothing
stirred, we stepped forward slowly, cautiously, till amongst some
tangle we found the beast lying dead. Telling Fan this, we called to
her to come down.
She walked to the butt end of the log and looked up, then to the other.
"My can't!" she cried, half laughing.
"Well, but how did you get there?" I asked.
"My jumped down. My no can get up no more, and my no can come down!"
Jim began haranguing her in Indian, then said that we must cut a pole
to reach to the log, which we did, and the girl climbed down and joined
us.
Meade and the others had returned during this operation, which we
carried out amidst much laughter. The bear was hauled out, dragged to
camp, Jim set to work, and we soon had steaks frying for supper--or
breakfast was it? We praised Fan for what she had done; she said it
was "Oh, nosing--nosing at all, at all!" that the bear was trying to
get a salmon we had hung in a bush, and she went for it.
"But how did you get up where you were?" we asked.
She said that the bear drove her there, at which we made her tell
exactly what had happened, which she did, with many laughs, much as
follows:--
"My was making slapjacks for de supper; my was at de fire. My see de
bar a-grabbin' for de fish, and my go for him. My got no gun, no
nosing but de fry-pan. You bet my go for him wis zat. Oh, yes! but de
bar he no scart; nossir, he come for me; yessir, 'n I go for de tepee,
'n zare I ketch Jim's lifle and katlidges. Well, de bar he come zare
too, 'll he went for de tepee--see," and she pointed to where it had
been torn. "He make to drag down de tepee 'n ketch dis Injun gal;
yessir, 'n so my shoot at him 'n hit him, 'n den my run avay! Oh yes,
my run up dat rock dare, 'n de bar kum arter me, 'n he druv me to de
aige of de bank dere. 'N he druv, 'n druv, 'n my shot two times--tree
times, 'n my guess my didn't hit him bad; 'n he comed up so clost my
tink he'd have me. So zen my look down onct; my see de log, my jump
for it, 'n when my get dere zat bar he make to come to me too! Yessir,
but zat time my get steady shot, my give it him in de tum-tum 'n he go
tumblin' down--way down dere where you find him. Oh, you bet, dat last
time my shot it hurt him--eh?" Then she turned to her cookery as
calmly as if it had been the neck of a pigeon she had wrung, and
nothing more.
After this we took care that no one was left alone at camp again, and
if by any chance we came across a silver-tip we steered clear of him.
Barring mosquitos--and they were a bar and no mistake--it was a
glorious trip down Lewes river: we did it in two days to Lake La Barge.
This lovely sheet of water is five, and in some places ten, miles
broad, and about thirty-five long. Our friends parted from us here,
and we were left to pursue our travels alone. They could sail straight
down the lake, their boats being good and not laden like ours. We
dared not venture, as it was blowing stiffly, and there was some sea on.
We followed the coast closely, and were three days doing the journey.
When we left this--the last of the lakes--we found the Lewes had
quickened its current to six miles an hour. It was extremely crooked,
too, and filled with boulders, causing us much difficult and anxious
work; but by means of ropes from shore, and careful poling, we made a
safe and fairly rapid progress.
The hills came down, often, sheer to the water's edge, and were
generally well timbered. We moved on, mostly at night--that is, when
the sun was low: at other times it was too terribly hot, and we found
it better to turn night into day.
[Illustration: LAKE LA BARGE.]
About twenty-eight miles from Lake La Barge the Hootalinqua river
enters from the east: it is as wide as the Lewes at the junction. Here
we came in sight of several tents, with people about them. We were for
passing unnoticed, for Jim and his wife were terribly afraid of
Indians. However, we were hailed from the shore, and begged to land.
They were miners, rough customers; but they treated us well, and were
glad of the latest news from the outer world. They were Americans.
They said they were finding "flour" gold on all the bars, and advised
us to stay and prospect; but we made excuses and hurried on, giving our
destination as Fort Cudahy. I believe these men thought we were
Government officials, and not gold-seekers, for our equipment was so
perfect, and the careless way in which we spoke of gold deceived them.
Cut clay banks, full of martins, were common along this river. We
found first-rate camping places, and were never without fish and game,
but rarely missed mosquitos for more than an hour or two in the early
morning.
Thirty miles below the Hootalinqua the Big Salmon joins. We saw no one
about here, though we had heard that its bars carry much gold. Salmon
were crowding up its rather shallow mouth when we passed; we could have
secured a boatful in an hour with a net.
Below the Big Salmon the hills are high and round, mostly wooded to
their summits. Thirty-five miles below, the Little Salmon river enters
also from the east. There was a band of veritable Indians fishing. We
had much ado to pacify our two--they wished us to keep close to the
opposite shore, and generally to act as if we had something to conceal;
but we made them sit out of sight, and sailed merrily by, with only the
cheery response to our cry, "Kla-howya!"[1] from them.
Still a little farther we passed a camp. A boat was hauled up, the
tents were closed; we concluded they were all asleep--it was bed-time
anyway.
Twenty miles below this we came to a trading-post kept by one George
M'Connel. There was a log-house and store, two or three rough
shanties, and a boat or two. We hailed some men, "asking if there were
any Indians around?" As they said "No," we landed, and spent an hour
with them. M'Connel was impressed with our outfit, and the fact that
we had two Indians as helpers struck him as very stylish. He, too,
evidently supposed we were on some Government business. We got from
these people information about the Five Fingers Rapids, which we had
now to tackle.
A short distance below the Little Salmon we passed the Eagle's Nest,
which is the most conspicuous landmark along the Lewes. It is about
five hundred feet high, rising abruptly from a gravel flat. The river
is here three hundred yards wide, and we had come three hundred miles
from tide-water at Skagway.
[Illustration: FIVE FINGERS RAPIDS.]
We camped here and tried some of the soil for gold, as we had done at
many of our stopping-places. More often than not we got the
colour--that is, a few fine specks. In several spots we got so many
that we felt sure it would some day pay to work, but Meade always
smiled and said, "Don't bother; we'll get all we want directly."
From here the banks are high, of clay and gravel; the current is about
five miles an hour. The country was well wooded; there were many birch
trees. We had fifty-three miles to go from Little Salmon river, which
took us two days only; then Five Fingers came in sight. We had little
difficulty in running these rapids--Meade and I had become expert with
oars and paddles. We rested for a few hours above them, on the western
bank of the river, where he made a sketch, as he had done when any
particularly interesting bit was noted and the mosquitos would give him
a chance. Then, without discharging any cargo, with Jim at the
steering sweep, we ventured forth, crossed to the right-hand shore,
into the white water, and in a very few minutes had rushed through the
passage, and were in quiet beyond, and the last serious obstruction had
been overcome.
We ran on cheerily after this, and came to a bar of rocks they call
Rink Rapids, which we passed without mishap. Below this the river
widens considerably, and there are many islands, which became more
numerous as we advanced: it was often difficult to tell which were the
real shores. Past there the high hills came down abruptly to the
water, the current was accelerated, and navigation, though not
dangerous, needed constant care.
Fifty-five miles from Five Fingers the great Pelly river joins the
Lewes, and the two become the Yukon. Here is old Fort Selkirk, a
trading-post of some importance, and there they winter the steamer P.
B. Weare, which navigates the Yukon between there and Fort St Michael.
Several dwellings and a store were on the bank; half-a-dozen men were
about and some women. We supposed they were prospectors, for they
spoke of nothing but gold, which indeed was the one topic with every
one. Indeed, Gold! Gold! Gold! was in everybody's mouth we met,
though certainly they were not numerous.
One man here was very friendly, lavish with advice, telling us again
and again about the good places he knew, and saying he only wished he
was free to go--he would quickly make his pile and quit the country; at
which the bystanders smiled, and winked at one another. One of them
told us aside that it was well known that this man had already got
better than a gold mine, and was making his fortune rapidly. All the
goods he sold were exorbitant in price--which was, as they admitted,
fair enough--and everything was paid for in gold dust, which he had to
weigh himself. "'N you bet," as an old Yankee miner said with a
grin,--"you bet he don't lose much every time he uses them scales o'
his'n."
The furs he bought from the trappers and Indians at a very low price,
which he paid in goods. Oh, yes; we readily understood he did not
need, or really wish, to go gold-mining.
There was a large number of dogs about this place, principally
mongrels, yet there were some pure Huskies--that is, Esquimaux dogs.
One fine young one had been petted, which made the others jealous: they
set upon him whenever they caught him outside alone, which made his
owner believe they were bound to kill him, so he offered him to us and
we accepted him. We named him Patch, after an old dog I knew in
England: we fed him well, and he quickly became a most beautiful and
faithful creature--one of the most intelligent dogs I ever knew.
Very little remains of Fort Selkirk now beyond the ruins of the
chimneys. It was raided and burned by coast Indians in 1852.
Ninety-six miles on we passed the mouth of the White river, which is of
great volume, coming into the Yukon with a roar. It is so called from
a white substance it holds in solution, probably volcanic ash. Ten
miles below this is the Stewart river, helping to swell the already
mighty Yukon. It is deep and dark.
There were a few miners hereabouts. We did not land. They hailed us
as we passed, calling out that there was plenty of gold if we would
stay and tackle it. We replied that we were bound down river some
distance, and one fellow shouted, "Bloomin' Yanks, no doubt!"
Seventy miles below Stewart river we came to another trading-post, and
a sawmill actually--this was at Sixty-Mile Creek. We camped below it,
as there were some Indians working at the mill, much to Jim's and Fan's
horror. Meade and I walked back and purchased some boards to make
sluice-boxes, and floated them down to our boat. There were a number
of miners about: some spoke favourably of their doings, but most were
downhearted, and all looked unhappy. We thought then, and believe it
fully now, that mosquitos were the cause of most of it. Here we found
to our great content that we had but fifty more miles to run down to
the Klondyke. They called it the Thronduk though.
Asking if there was any gold there, we were told not any--that it had
been examined well, and there was nothing there to pay. It was just a
salmon river and nothing more, at which information Meade looked at me
with eyebrows raised and a smile hovering about his mouth.
We heard, however, that twenty miles before reaching that river we
should come to Indian Creek, which the year before had proved to be
quite rich, though already "played out." But as we heard people were
still at work on it, we had doubts about the truth of this. The fact
is, gold-hunters are amongst the most easily excited and depressed of
beings, and one can rarely depend on individual opinions.
[Illustration: ON THE YUKON AT THE MOUTH OF THE KLONDYKE RIVER.]
We made the run to the mouth of the Klondyke in two days. Here and
there were heaps of ice still on the shore and shallows, for it does
not entirely disappear from the Yukon till well on in June.
Usually an Indian camp was there, as it is really famous for salmon.
They come annually to fish it. Here, too, is Dawson City--described by
Meade as a rough miners' camp of shacks and shanties only--chiefly
saloons, drinking-bars, dance-houses, and gambling dens. There were
only a few hundred people in it, storekeeping and trading with the
miners, of whom there were always a number hanging about, spending
their hard-earned gold. Our aim being to avoid all communication with
the shore, we held back till midnight, when there was a certain gloom
spread over the scene, and when most people would be asleep. We were
fortunate enough to slip into the river without any notice being taken.
There was no very strong current down the Klondyke, yet as we had to
pull against it we moved slower: however, finding a sequestered nook a
few miles up, we camped before it was what we called day. This stream
is not wide. The water is very clear. It was a very beautiful scene,
but truly we took no time to criticise our surroundings. We had all we
could do to attend to our business, and fight mosquitos!
Naturally we were impatient to reach Meade's last year's camp
unobserved, and to discover if his find had been unmolested by
wandering prospectors. We had seen so few human beings about that we
hoped for the best; yet, now that we were so near the end of our long
journey, we were in a fever of excitement.
Meade and I realised what a mistake we had made in not bringing a light
canoe with us, for he knew it would be impossible to get our heavy boat
past the rough water at the mouth of the creek where he had found the
gold. We could manage our packs, but we four could not convey that
boat over the portage.
Besides, how were Jim and his wife to get home? We did not intend to
keep them with us whilst we were mining. We firmly believed that they
were both true and trustworthy, but they were simple, and it would be
easy for them to be led to disclose where we were and what we were
doing, so we had determined that they should go back as soon as they
had helped us with our stuff on to the still water of Meade's creek.
To carry out our plans, then, we must have a canoe, so it was in the
end arranged that I should march into Dawson and, if possible, buy one.
It was a difficult tramp, but I managed it.
My arrival at the "City" attracted little notice: a number of men had
lately come up by the boat from Fort St Michael--they supposed I was
one of them. I announced that I was one of a party camped up stream,
and wanted a canoe.
There was a variety on sale. I don't suppose those who said they owned
them did so really--they had been brought there by people who had gone
back and abandoned them; but anyway one was offered with a pair of
paddles for one hundred dollars--a Peterborough canoe, therefore a good
one. I purchased it, got a square meal, and then towards evening I
paddled off, not heading up the Klondyke but across it, as if I were
going to ascend the Yukon. I wished to put the people off my scent.
I need not attempt to describe what I saw at Dawson. It was rough, and
the goings on were rougher. I was assured that there was very little
actual crime--only gambling, drinking, and every description of
dissipation. There were some women, strange specimens. I came across
the wife of a storekeeper, however, who was very pleasant. She was an
Englishwoman from Eastbourne. She spoke bitterly of everything
there--climate, people, and mosquitos. She admitted that she and her
husband were making money, and hoped that a year or two only of the
awful life would have to be endured ere they could return to England.
Not having seen or spoken to a decent white woman since I left the
steamship at Juneau, I confess it was pleasant to have a talk with this
nice Englishwoman, and I am thankful that I made her acquaintance then,
as subsequent events will demonstrate.
I did not get back to our camp till the following day, when we started
again. We made no rapid progress--there were many shallow bars or
ledges to cross; we got stuck more than once, until we put some of our
cargo into the canoe and towed her. It took us four days, hard work
too, to get up to the rapids at the mouth of what we called "The Creek."
On the way we passed the mouths of several creeks where a few miners
were camped. They hailed us, but were so intent upon making use of
every moment of the short summer that they really took small heed of
us. However, for the last two days we had not seen a soul.
Meade knew the way perfectly. When we reached the rapids we unloaded
everything, and carried all with the canoe up to calm water above. The
boat we cached in a convenient crevice we found in a rocky bluff near
at hand. Then loading all we possibly could into the canoe, my friend
and I pushed up stream, paddling, as you may be sure, our very hardest,
scarcely taking time to eat or sleep.
We left Jim and his wife in charge of the rest of the stores. We would
not allow them to erect tent or tepee. They were to make themselves a
wigwam of brush, and to cover all our stuff with bushes, for we did not
wish to attract attention, you understand.
I told Jim he might try for gold whilst they were waiting for our
return--that it would be good if he could take some back to the coast;
and Fan, laughing merrily, said, "Plenty chickamin (gold) hyar, my will
make pile hyar, my feel it in my tum-tum."
These Indians well understood what a pile meant, but their notion of
its amount, and what to do with one when they had secured it, were very
funny.
On the second night, after having come, as we thought, about forty
miles, behold Meade and I hauling our canoe to shore and arrived at our
journey's end. For some hours before my companion had been greatly
excited. "See that stump?" he would cry. "Yes." "Well, I did that.
I camped in there one day."
A little farther on he pointed to a bank covered with brush. "See that
bare place there?" "Yes." "Well, I tried a pan of stuff there, and
got a good show. I was half a mind to stay on and give it a good
examination. I'm glad enough I did not."
From a considerable distance he declared he could see the dug-out which
he had made, and where he had passed some weeks; and as we drew quite
near he exclaimed with delight, "All's right. I don't believe a living
thing has been here since I left last September. Hurrah!"
We had been forty-five days on the journey in. Considering all things,
we had done well. It was now, we believed, the third day of July, but
we were not certain. We had endeavoured to keep a log of our voyaging,
but from there always being daylight now, and from the irregularity
with which we had eaten and slept, we were not very sure even of the
day of the week!
[1] "Clark, how are you?" is the greeting Sir James (then Mr) Douglas
used to his second-in-command many years ago, which the Indians caught
up, and it is to this day the form of greeting between whites and reds
on the Pacific coast.