LABRADOR. _About 510 Miles._ GREENLAND.]

CAPTAIN SHERARD OSBORN, R.N.: I will not attempt to say anything as

to the practicability of the route, inasmuch as the distinguished

travellers and navigators, who read their papers at the last meeting,

have given us sufficient authority to say that there were obstacles on

the route undoubtedly, but that all those obstacles are surmountable.

Touching the soundings, I would call your attention to the agreeable

fact that the entire line of soundings show that there is no depth

greater than 1000 fathoms between Scotland and longitude 30 west on

the proposed route, or exactly halfway across the Atlantic Ocean.

There are then two valleys of deep water, of small width, on either

side of Greenland. The soundings diminished, as you see, very abruptly

as Greenland is approached, and shallow water will be found probably

round Cape Farewell. With regard to the Labrador coast, the principal

difficulty was in carrying the cable within the 150 fathoms of water,

so that it might not be exposed to the action of the icebergs. I am

sure that Arctic men all agree that 150 fathoms would be about the

maximum draught of any iceberg, so that the chief object to be secured

in placing the cable is to push the 150 fathom mark as near into the

coast as possible. They would remember that Sir Leopold M‘Clintock

had said that he would like to have a more accurate survey of the

Labrador coast, so as to carry the deep water a little closer. If they

looked at the map they would see 1190 fathoms carried just to the

north of Hamilton Inlet, and there was every reason to believe that

the bank of Newfoundland--they might call it so, although it extended

a long way up the Labrador coast--deepened suddenly there. As far as

one might speculate upon the question, I have no doubt that a more

accurate survey would lead to the obtaining of such information as

would give us a channel leading close into the Labrador shore, near

Cape Harrison. I would propose, that the cable there should open out

and form, say, half-a-dozen strands running into the shore at certain

distances from each other, so that if a berg drifted down and happened

to pick up one, it would not pick up all the rest, and by that means

the cable in the deep water would be at all times safe and recoverable

by following out those strands. There was one feature that struck me

particularly, and on which I wrote to Captain M‘Clintock. No man would

dispute that bergs of ice sounding the bottom would rip it up, just as

a plough would a ploughed field; and that if that bank was thus ripped

up by the floes of ice, there would be hardly any animal or vegetable

life upon it; it would be a kind of subterranean desert. Sir Leopold

M‘Clintock was continually dredging there, and in a note just received,

that distinguished navigator said, “The bank of Hamilton Inlet has

from 100 to 200 fathoms upon it. I am of opinion that icebergs which

ever drift down there cannot possibly reach the bottom. They ground

near the islands at the entrance and are not bergs of the largest

size. Shells and other small things were brought up by the sounding

machines in 40 or 50 fathoms, _as in other parts of the sea_ where

icebergs cannot possibly interfere with them.” Near Frederickshaab

Captain Sir L. M‘Clintock says they dredged up in 26 fathoms delicate

corals and creatures which could not live at the bottom of the sea if

much disturbed by icebergs,--and adds “_so much for the destructive

propensities of icebergs_.” How all this came about was a question I do

not pretend to solve, but the fact was very curious, as showing that

bergs could touch the bottom without sweeping everything before them. I

am sure that every geographer will be interested in the following fact,

for it related to the late Sir John Ross, who stated that in his voyage

in 1818 he brought up mud from 1050 fathoms, the deepest soundings ever

obtained at that time; and in the mud were shells and fish. So to that

old navigator they first owed that the fact of animal life in great

depths had been discovered. We were talking the other day about the

difficulties with regard to the intense cold and the aurora borealis

affecting the telegraph. It might be interesting for the Society to

know that a few seasons ago, Captain Kellett and Captain M‘Clintock

were beset in the ice in 74-1/2° north, and they communicated with each

other by telegraph from ship to ship. Now 74-1/2° north latitude was a

long way in the Arctic zone, and the cable, the practicability of which

they were at present discussing, would lie a long way without it. That

telegraph was at work throughout the whole winter, and was not in any

way affected by that terrible bug-bear the aurora borealis, nor by the

intense cold experienced so far north. (Applause.)

* * * * *

MR. JOHN BALL: It is impossible to over-rate the importance of the

subject brought to the attention of the Society by the gentlemen who

read their papers. It is very desirable that we should not under-rate

the difficulties which still remain, and which I think have not all of

them been sufficiently brought forward, and it is by pointing out the

difficulties at this early stage that we shall soonest arrive at the

solution of those difficulties and the great end which I trust we shall

live to see accomplished. I have long felt that this northern route

was the right one; but I am not blind to the many difficulties which

still remain in our way. With reference to the precise points which

come particularly under the attention of this Society, and were brought

clearly before us at the last meeting, there are two or three on which

I wish to make a few observations. As to the Færöes, I apprehend there

is no great difficulty. As to Iceland, it is proposed to land the

cable at the south-east side of the island, to carry it across the

island, and start again from Reikiavik in order to communicate from

thence to Greenland. Now there, are we not unnecessarily encountering

very serious difficulties and incurring a great increase of

expenditure? It is true that it is possible to cross Iceland--perfectly

possible--but so experienced a traveller as Dr. Rae found that it was

not practicable without very great sacrifice of time, and encountering

great difficulties, to take that direct route pretty nearly from east

to west; but has he at all considered what the difficulties and cost

of laying down a telegraphic wire are? I think he has mentioned--every

traveller in Iceland has mentioned--that large district in the

interior of the island over which you must hurry as fast as your

horses can carry you, for the simple reason that there is nothing upon

which to live; and if you are to lay down a telegraph across that

interior desert of Iceland, you must be prepared for a vast number of

difficulties and an enormous amount of money, and time, and labour,

while they are doing it, and to accomplish it within a reasonable time.

But, furthermore, how is it to be done? If you require piles, you must

carry every pile into the island, across the island by horses, and

supposing you could hire every one of the horses, there are not enough

to enable you, in one or two seasons, to accomplish the work. And then,

again, I have not alluded to the difficulty which every voyager will

have encountered with respect to the breakers. Would it not be better

to confine the difficulties to one point alone,--the entrance into the

Faxe Fiord? I don’t know whether it is proposed to land it at that

point or not, but let the difficulties be confined to one point instead

of two. With reference to Labrador, even though it be true that we can

carry the 150 fathoms depth near to the coast, still that, my lord, may

be as formidable as ten, or twenty, or fifty miles in another place. If

it be a part of the coast on which there are icebergs, it is necessary,

it appears to me, not only to carry your 150 fathoms of water close in

shore, but you must get it safe behind some headland which will throw

aside the icebergs. May it not be possible that by making the line a

little longer, and running it into the strait of Belle Isle, the true

solution will be found?

* * * * *

SIR RODERICK MURCHISON:--If any Arctic geographer or voyager had been

prepared to rise, I would not have occupied the time of the Society

for one moment, upon a subject on which I know little. I will only say

I am one of the very many well-wishers to every expedition of this

sort which the Royal Geographical Society holds within its number.

My lord, we are not here, as you have very properly said, to discuss

the engineering merits of the project, nor are we really capable of

estimating the difficulties that have been apprehended by my friend Mr.

Ball; but we are capable of estimating, in a very decisive manner, the

facts that Sir Leopold M‘Clintock and Captain Sherard Osborn, who are

men of great experience as Arctic voyagers, have pronounced in favour

of this scheme.

I make no observations upon the scheme, except to say that had I risen

at our last meeting, when your lordship adjourned the discussion to

this evening, I should have felt it necessary to say that we owe a

deep debt of obligation to those five gentlemen, who brought before

us on that occasion their well elaborated and well received papers.

They brought before us a mass of geographical knowledge which we never

could have possessed, had not this expedition been matured--I say it

to his honour--through the patronage of Lord Palmerston, and carried

out through the active enterprise of the gentlemen who undertook this

service.

Being in favour of all such expeditions, the moment my distinguished

friend Captain Allen Young offered to go out in command of the little

“Fox,” in which you know I took a deep interest, I went down to

Southampton, to attend a great meeting assembled by the Mayor in honour

of this expedition. There Colonel Shaffner and Mr. Croskey, and the

other gentlemen associated with them, and the Danish officers and

others present received from us as Englishmen every encouragement we

could offer to promote this enterprise.

My lord, the details of the two expeditions have been so admirably

laid before you that I, for one, should have been contented with the

results, if I were in any way embarked as a speculator in the success

of the undertaking. But not having any pecuniary interest in it, or in

any rival speculation, I may say to the gentlemen of the North Atlantic

Company, you have put your case so well before the public, that no

gentleman associated with other lines can say that it is possible to

have treated the subject in a more ingenuous and fair manner. (Hear,

hear, and applause.)

And now, my lord, I cannot sit down without saying, it gave me very

great satisfaction to hear Dr. Rae expatiate, as he did, upon the

warm and hearty reception that he received from all the inhabitants

of the Danish settlement of the Færöe Islands and of Iceland. I say

this in the presence of the Danish minister; and I am sure Dr. Rae was

justified when he spoke in the name of Englishmen, of our gratitude to

the King of Denmark, and to the government of that country, for having

so warmly assisted us in one of those great enterprises, which may lead

us to connect America with our own country. (Applause.)

* * * * *

DR. RAE: My Lord,--The time allowed me at the last meeting of this

Society was necessarily so short, that I left unmentioned some

important points connected with my journey over Iceland; so I now beg

to say a few words in reply to the observations of Mr. Ball.

The interior of Iceland over which we travelled is not devoid of grass,

there being sufficient for our horses throughout the whole route,

which offered comparatively few difficulties. Although two of the party

were heavy men, we crossed the island in thirteen or fourteen days,

riding the same horses at the rate of more than thirty miles per day.

These ponies can carry a load of 200 lbs. or upwards, and pieces of

wood ten or fifteen feet long can be carried by them over the highest

and steepest ground on the route. The best line for the telegraph lies

to the south of that we travelled over, and is marked on the chart by

a dotted line. Along this route there is abundance of water, and grass

also, except at one station, to supply which a depôt of hay could be

made. This portion of the way (about the centre of Iceland), called

the Sprengisandr road, is almost a flat table land. Again, some of the

larger rivers that flow northward appear to be navigable for boats

similar to those used in Hudson’s Bay, which carry from three to four

tons weight. By this means materials could be deposited at several

stations near to the proposed line. I do not profess to be a surveyor,

but having travelled a good deal both in the United States and Canada,

I have seen telegraphs carried over more difficult and rougher country

than we encountered in crossing Iceland. But should objections be

offered to carrying the telegraph completely across the island, I am

of opinion, from information obtained, that Portland, in the south of

Iceland, although no safe harbour for ships, would form a good landing

place for a cable. From Portland to Reikiavik the distance is not over

ninety miles, and the road offers no obstacles. The object of our

journey was not to make a minute or detailed survey, but to determine

if it were practicable to carry a telegraph over the island. (Applause.)

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