THE FINE POINTS IN MAKING LARD.
Pure lard should contain less than one per cent of water and foreign
matter. It is the fat of swine, separated from the animal tissue by the
process of rendering. The choicest lard is made from the whole "leaf."
Lard is also made by the big packers from the residue after rendering the
leaf and expressing a "neutral" lard, which is used in the manufacture of
oleomargarine. A good quality of lard is made from back-fat and leaf
rendered together. Fat from the head and intestines goes to make the
cheaper grades. Lard may be either "kettle" or "steam rendered," the
kettle process being usually employed for the choicer fat parts of the
animal, while head and intestinal fat furnish the so-called "steam lard."
Steam lard, however, is sometimes made from the leaf. On the other hand,
other parts than the leaf are often kettle rendered. Kettle rendered lard
usually has a fragrant cooked odor and a slight color, while steam lard
often has a strong animal odor.
TO REFINE LARD,
a large iron pot is set over a slow fire of coals, a small quantity of
water is put into the bottom of the pot, and this is then filled to the
brim with the fat, after it has first been cut into small pieces and
nicely washed, to free it from blood and other impurities. If necessary to
keep out soot, ashes, etc., loose covers or lids are placed over the
vessels, and the contents are made to simmer slowly for several hours.
This work requires a careful and experienced hand to superintend it.
Everything should be thoroughly clean, and the attendant must possess
patience and a practical knowledge of the work. It will not do to hurry
the cooking. A slow boil or simmer is the proper way. The contents are
occasionally stirred as the cooking proceeds, to prevent burning. The
cooking is continued until the liquid ceases to bubble and becomes clear.
So long as there is any milky or cloudy appearance about the fat, it
contains water, and in this condition will not keep well in summer--a
matter of importance to the country housekeeper.
It requires six to eight hours constant cooking to properly refine a
kettle or pot of fat. The time will depend, of course, somewhat upon the
size of the vessel containing it and the thickness of the fat, and also
upon the attention bestowed upon it by the cook. By close watching, so as
to keep the fire just right all the time, it will cook in a shorter
period, and vice versa. When the liquid appears clear the pots are set
aside for the lard to cool a little before putting it into the vessels in
which it is to be kept. The cracknels are first dipped from the pots and
put into colanders, to allow the lard to drip from them. Some press the
cracknels, and thus get a good deal more lard. As the liquid fat is dipped
from the pots it is carefully strained through fine colanders or wire
sieves. This is done to rid it of any bits of cracknel, etc., that may
remain in the lard. Some country people when cooking lard add a few sprigs
of rosemary or thyme, to impart a pleasant flavor to it. A slight taste of
these herbs is not objectionable. Nothing else whatever is put into the
lard as it is cooked, and if thoroughly done, nothing else is needed. A
little salt is sometimes added, to make it firmer and keep it better in
summer, but the benefit, if any, is slight, and too much salt is
objectionable.
LEAF LARD.
In making lard, all the leaf or flake fat, the two leaves of almost solid
fat that grow just above the hams on either side about the kidneys, and
the choice pieces of fat meat cut off in trimming the pork should be tried
or rendered first and separate from the remainder. This fat is the best
and makes what is called the leaf lard. It may be put in the bottom of the
cans, for use in summer, or else into separate jars or cans, and set away
in a cool place. The entrail fat and bits of fat meat are cooked last and
put on top of the other, or into separate vessels, to be used during cool
weather. This lard is never as good as the other, and will not keep sweet
as long; hence the pains taken by careful housewives to keep the two sorts
apart. It must be admitted, however, that many persons, when refining lard
for market, do not make any distinction, but lump all together, both in
cooking and afterward. But for pure, honest "leaf" lard not a bit of
entrail fat should be mixed with the flakes.
A PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT POINT
in making lard is to take plenty of time. The cooking must not be hurried
in the least. It requires time to thoroughly dry out all the water, and
the keeping quality of the lard depends largely upon this. A slow fire of
coals only should be placed under the kettle, and great care exercised
that no spark snaps into it, to set fire to the hot oil. It is well to
have at hand some close-fitting covers, to be put immediately over the
kettle, closing it tightly in case the oil should take fire. The mere
exclusion of air will put out the fire at once. Cook slowly in order not
to burn any of the fat in the least, as that will impart a very
unpleasant flavor to the lard. The attendants should stir well with a long
ladle or wooden stick during the whole time of cooking. It requires
several hours to thoroughly cook a vessel of lard, when the cracknels will
eventually rise to the top.
A cool, dry room, such as a basement, is the best place for keeping lard.
Large stone jars are perhaps the best vessels to keep it in, but tins are
cheaper, and wooden casks, made of oak, are very good. Any pine wood,
cedar or cypress will impart a taste of the wood. The vessels must be kept
closed, to exclude litter, and care should be observed to prevent ants,
mice, etc., from getting to the lard. A secret in keeping lard firm and
good in hot weather is first to cook it well, and then set it in a cool,
dry cellar, where the temperature remains fairly uniform throughout the
year. Cover the vessels after they are set away in the cellar with closely
fitting tops over a layer of oiled paper.