On the night of the 9th of August, 1809, the chiefs of the movement,

with the officers of the troops, met in the house of Dona Manuela

Canizaries, the Madame Roland of Ecuador, and assigned to each the role

which he was to play in the _coup d'etat_. The officers went to the

barracks, led out the troops, and took possession of the government

buildings in the name of the revolutionist committee. The president and

those Spanish officials who proved recalcitrant were imprisoned, a

governing junta of nine with Juan Montufar as chief was appointed, and

an open cabildo summoned which confirmed these acts. The junta notified

the viceroys of Bogota and Lima that it had assumed the government, and

sent messengers to the provincial capitals demanding that they expel

their Spanish authorities, adhere to the new order of things, and

recognise the supremacy of the Quito junta. But the movement met with no

favourable response from the rest of the presidency. The governors of

Popayan, Cuenca, and Guayaquil immediately began to enlist troops to

defend themselves against an attack from Quito. The junta prepared for

war, but though plenty of ambitious young Creoles volunteered as

officers there were not firearms enough to go around. At last an

expedition set off to the north against Pasto and Popayan only to be

easily defeated by the hasty levies the Spanish authorities had made

among the sturdy Indians of those regions. Frightened by this defeat and

their hopeless isolation, the junta resigned under promise of amnesty

and in October Castilla returned to Quito and resumed the reins of

government. But his position was insecure, and rumors of a fresh

conspiracy soon drove him to repressive measures and the imprisonment of

leading Creoles. The feeling grew bitter and in August, 1810, a

desperate effort was made by the Creoles to get possession of the

barracks. Its failure was followed by a frightful massacre in which many

of the most popular men in the place were murdered.

Meanwhile, the supreme junta at Seville, anxious to pacify the

revolutionary disorders, had commissioned Carlos Montufar, a son of the

chief of the fallen Quito junta who then happened to be in Spain, to go

to Ecuador and reconcile the factions. Under his advice Castilla

resigned to a new junta the direction of affairs, taking, however, the

position of its chief member, and sent away his troops. In reality the

younger Montufar sympathised with his brother Creoles; the universal

indignation at the massacre of 1810 pushed him on to vengeance;

Spaniards travelling through the country were waylaid and assassinated;

and by the time Molina, appointed by the Spanish government in

Castilla's place, had reached Cuenca on his way north to Quito, the old

governor had again been deposed and imprisoned and open war existed

between Arredondo, the Spaniard commanding the troops who had retired

from Quito in accordance with the compromise, and the junta in the

latter city. The year 1811 passed without any material change in the

situation. The Spanish generals controlled Guayaquil and Cuenca in the

south and Pasto and Popayan in the north, practically isolating the

revolutionary government at Quito. As the troops of both sides became

better trained the war took on a more determined and cruel character.

Royalists and revolutionists both raised recruits among the sturdy

mountain Indians and half-breeds. In technical knowledge of their

profession the Spanish officers were superior to the revolutionary

leaders and could procure arms more readily. Their armies were usually

better disciplined and more efficient, although more liable to depletion

by desertion.

In this state of perpetual war, government rapidly became exclusively

military. On the surface the contest seemed only a struggle between two

sets of independent chiefs, in whose mouths "liberty" and "loyalty" were

mere catch-words, and who continually quarrelled among themselves even

when they nominally belonged to the same side. Early in 1812 Montufar

was overthrown by another Creole chief in Quito who thereupon undertook

an expedition against the Spanish general at Cuenca. But sedition among

the patriot troops gave an easy victory to the latter, and the Spaniards

took the offensive. Marching toward Quito, they dispersed the patriot

army at Mocha, and entered the capital in triumph.

Montes, the Spanish general who now became ruler of the presidency, was

a wise and moderate man, and spared no pains to conciliate. He soon

succeeded in so completely consolidating his power that during nine

years Quito and most of the presidency remained quietly submissive, and

became one of the centres whence Spanish expeditions went out against

the parts of the continent which still remained in revolution. An able

general, Samano by name, carried the successes of the Spanish arms to

the north, and although the patriots of Colombia obtained some temporary

advantages in the winter of 1814-15, they never penetrated south of

Pasto. In 1816 the tide again turned with the arrival of eleven thousand

Spanish veterans in the north of Colombia. The patriots were soon

everywhere defeated, Bogota itself taken, and a remnant of

revolutionists who attempted the invasion of Popayan and Pasto were

overwhelmed by Samano in 1816 at the battle of Tambo. The patriot cause

was at its lowest ebb in all South America. Resistance ceased in

Colombia; only a few scattered bands kept up a desultory warfare in

Venezuela; Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia were quiet; Spanish authority had

been re-established in Chile; Uruguay had fallen into the hands of the

Portuguese king; and Spanish armies were invading the Argentine, the

last refuge of the revolution.

San Martin's thunderbolt descent upon Chile and his victory at Chacabuco

changed the aspect of affairs. A fleet was improvised at Valparaiso

which obtained command of the Pacific coast, cutting off the Spaniards

in Ecuador from receiving supplies except overland from the Caribbean

ports. Bolivar took new heart for his tedious task of arousing the north

and driving the Spaniards from Venezuela and New Granada. In 1819 he

climbed the east side of the Andes to the neighbourhood of Bogota and by

defeating the Spanish army at Boyaca, freed most of present Colombia,

and even in Quito the patriots renewed their revolutionary plotting.

Meanwhile San Martin had completed the expulsion of the Spaniards from

Chile, and in 1820 he transported an army by sea to the neighbourhood of

Lima itself, opening communications with the anti-Spanish party all

along the coast. On the 9th of October, 1820, a successful revolution

broke out at Guayaquil, and little time was lost in sending an army to

the plateau. The Spaniards defeated it, but with Bolivar threatening

them from Colombia, their comrades in Peru fighting for their lives

against San Martin, the population of Quito on the verge of a revolt,

and the Pacific in the control of the patriots, they could not follow up

their advantage.

On June 24, 1821, Bolivar gained the crowning victory of Carabobo in

Venezuela. The Spanish position in the Caribbean provinces became

irretrievable, and the patriot general was thenceforth free to pursue

his plans for the expulsion of the enemy from southern New Granada and

Ecuador and their incorporation with Colombia. In the fall of that year

General Sucre, who shares with San Martin the honor of being the

greatest soldier of the patriot side, arrived at Guayaquil by sea,

bringing with him seventeen hundred Colombian and Venezuelan veterans.

Bolivar was to advance from Bogota, conquering Popayan and Pasto on his

way to Quito, while Sucre came up from the south. The latter at once

ascended the Andes to the plateau, but was badly defeated. Retreating to

Guayaquil, he reorganised his army, incorporating with it a

reinforcement of twelve hundred men sent by San Martin, and again

climbed the Andes. By this time Bolivar was advancing from Popayan to

Pasto and the Spaniards, thinking it best to concentrate their forces,

abandoned Cuenca and the southern provinces and allowed Sucre to advance

unopposed to the neighbourhood of Quito. There he outmanoeuvred them and

gained a commanding position on the slopes of the great volcano,

Pichincha, overlooking the city. His foes were forced to the alternative

of giving battle at a disadvantage or permitting him to effect a

junction with Bolivar, and overwhelming them by superior numbers. On the

morning of the 24th of May, 1822, the battle decisive of Ecuador's fate

was fought. The royal army suffered annihilation; four hundred dead lay

on the mountainside and two hundred wounded; eleven hundred men and one

hundred and sixty officers surrendered the following day. The only

troops who escaped belonged to scattered detachments not present at the

battle, who fled down the eastern slope of the Andes into the trackless

forests and finally made their way down the Amazon to the Atlantic.

CHAPTER IV

THE FORMATION OF ECUADOR

At the head of a victorious army of Colombians and Argentines, Sucre

could naturally do as he liked with Ecuador and an assembly of the

people of Quito accepted incorporation into the republic of Colombia.

Bolivar, meanwhile, had had some hard fighting with the stubborn

loyalists of Pasto, and the issue remained doubtful until news of the

victory of Pichincha was received. The Spanish commander surrendered;

Bolivar came on to Quito, and thence proceeded to Guayaquil. The

inhabitants of this important city were divided. Many wanted to be

independent; others preferred incorporation with Peru, to being tied up

with Colombia, a country whose capital could only be reached by months

of tedious travelling; others, however, were willing to maintain the

ancient political connection with New Granada. As a matter of fact,

discussion was useless, for Bolivar threw into the scale the weight of

his military power. Guayaquil and the adjacent coast region became a

department of Colombia, while the southern plateau provinces--Cuenca

and Loja--were also erected into a department of Bolivar's vast

confederation. This completed the division of the old presidency of

Quito into four parts--Pasto and the northern provinces, Quito and the

central, Cuenca and the southern, and Guayaquil with the coast, and in

all of them the influence of Bolivar's satraps was predominant.

Shortly after his arrival at Guayaquil Bolivar and San Martin had their

famous interview. The latter came up from Lima hoping to arrange plan of

joint campaign, but he quickly saw that Bolivar would never consent to

share the glory of driving the Spaniards from their last strongholds.

The great Argentine magnanimously determined to retire, and returning to

Lima, resigned the presidency of Peru. San Martin once out of the way,

Bolivar was eager to lead a Colombian army to Lima, but the Peruvians

declined his assistance. Alone, however, they had little chance against

the able Spanish generals, and, aghast at the progress of the enemy,

they soon sent to Bolivar begging his assistance on his own terms. The

selfishly ambitious liberator gladly accepted, and within a month Sucre

was on his way south at the head of a fine army of Colombian veterans.

Bolivar himself followed with reinforcements, and though hampered and

delayed by the revolt of the Callao garrison, Sucre's military ability

backed by Bolivar's tireless energy and large resources produced their

legitimate results. Bolivar in person advanced to the plateau and August

6, 1824, won the cavalry action of Junin which compelled the retirement

of the Spanish army to Cuzco. Bolivar returned to Lima leaving Sucre in

command, and on the 9th of December the latter annihilated the main body

of the enemy in the battle of Ayacucho--the crowning victory of the war

of South American independence.

Bolivar was supreme from the Caribbean to Potosi. As president of the

United States of Colombia he ruled Venezuela, New Granada, and Ecuador,

he himself was dictator of Peru, and his faithful lieutenant exercised

supreme power in Bolivia. The realisation of his cherished plan for the

union of all South America into one great confederacy, with himself as

life-president, seemed near at hand. But successful soldier though he

was--heroic, resourceful, and unwavering in reverse--his statecraft was

short-sighted and impracticable. The moment of his apogee marked the

beginning of his decline. He failed to appreciate that the spirit of

South America was profoundly democratic and local, and that the war of

independence owed its beginning and successful prosecution to a deeply

rooted impulse toward division, liberty, and anarchy among the Creoles.

To build a tower out of sand would have been easier than to create a

stable union between the recently liberated provinces of Spanish

America. Viewed in the light of subsequent events the wonder is that

territorial disintegration stopped where it did, and that South America

did not split into twenty instead of nine separate countries.

Bolivar's partisans in Colombia were unsuccessful in their intrigues to

replace the Constitution of Cucuta with one drawn up after the plan

their chief had imposed upon Bolivia and Peru. Neither leaders nor

people, army nor professional classes, showed any disposition to concede

him greater powers. His attempts to interfere in the affairs of

Argentine and Chile were repulsed, Peru became restless under his

dictatorship, Bolivia only waited a favourable opportunity to expel

Sucre, the very troops he had brought from Colombia to Peru became

mutinous, his pan-American congress at Panama turned out a fiasco. He

remained two years in Peru, until the news of a great uprising in

Venezuela made it necessary for him to hurry to the north. Hardly had he

left Lima than the military chiefs in Peru virtually disavowed his

authority. Under the leadership of their officers the Colombian troops

in Lima revolted, and the Peruvians, delighted to be rid of these

embarrassing guests, paid their pecuniary demands, and to the number of

over three thousand despatched them in ships for the north. They

disembarked in Ecuador, where one division took possession of Guayaquil

and another of Cuenca. Bolivar was so occupied with the troubles in

Venezuela that he could personally take no measures against this

defection, but General Flores, a Venezuelan whom he had appointed

commander of the military forces of the three southern provinces of the

old Quito presidency,--Guayaquil, Cuenca, and Quito,--proved energetic

and fortunate. His intrigues sowed discord among the officers of the

revolting troops. A counter-revolution occurred in his favour at Cuenca,

and after a short period of virtual independence Guayaquil also returned

to its old connection with Quito.

The movement against Bolivar from Colombia proper involved Pasto and

Popayan--the northern division of the old Quito presidency--while Quito

and the southern provinces were left largely to their own devices.

General La Mar, who had succeeded in making himself president of Peru,

conceived the idea of enlarging the limits of that country by the

acquisition of Guayaquil and Cuenca, and he was the more enthusiastic

because the latter was his native province. In 1828 war broke out

between Colombia and Peru. Peruvian ships blockaded Guayaquil, and in

January, 1829, forced the surrender of that place, while a Peruvian army

seven thousand strong invaded the Ecuadorean plateau and penetrated

beyond Cuenca. Flores and his rivals united in face of the common

danger, the Colombian veterans scattered through the country rallied to

the banner of Sucre, who came in person to take command, and the

decisive battle was fought at Tarqui in February. The Peruvians were so

badly defeated that they sued for peace, and agreed to surrender

Guayaquil and the greater part of the southern provinces.

[Illustration: GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR.]

By this time, however, Bolivar's own position had become desperate.

Venezuela had already separated from the confederation, and when on the

12th of May, 1830, Flores proclaimed the Quito presidency independent,

it was little more than the announcement of an existing fact. He

attempted to disarm jealousy against Quito by christening the country by

the fanciful name of Ecuador, and by decreeing that each province should

have an equal vote in the legislative assembly. Flores was merely one

of a multitude of military chiefs who had been fighting among themselves

since the expulsion of the Spaniards. Though married to a Quito lady he

was a Venezuelan and could rely on few local friendships or sympathies,

and the Colombian veterans, who swarmed over the country devouring the

substance of the people and eager for pay and plunder, regarded him as

one of themselves and were ready to desert him for any chief who might

offer higher wages.

Now that Bolivar was overthrown and Sucre murdered on a lonely mountain

road by hired assassins, the sentiment of loyalty to their old chiefs

tardily revived among the fickle Colombian regulars. They received

Flores's declaration of independence with indignation; an insurrection

broke out among the garrison at Guayaquil; and the veterans marched to

the plateau. Flores had no force capable of making headway against them,

and was compelled to negotiate a treaty, agreeing to support Bolivar in

case the latter should remain in South America. On the other hand, the

troops consented to recognise Flores if Bolivar should go into exile.

Hardly had the treaty been signed than word was received of the lonely

death of the great Venezuelan at Santa Marta. Most of the veterans took

service under Flores, and he pursued the recalcitrants with relentless

and bloody severity. Pasto and Popayan, composing the province of Cauca,

the northern division of the old Quito presidency, wavered as to whether

they would cast their lot with Ecuador or New Granada. The government

at Bogota sent an army into the disputed territory, and Flores tried to

organise a force large enough to beat it, but he was hampered by

mutinies, conspiracies, and poverty, and after a year of expensive

though nearly bloodless operations withdrew and consented to a treaty by

which Ecuador gave up all claim to Pasto and Popayan, losing a third of

the territory and population of the old presidency of Quito.

[Illustration: COSTUMES OF NATIVES NEAR QUITO.]

Flores, however, managed to hold Guayaquil and Cuenca as well as Quito

and must therefore be regarded as the founder of Ecuador, though his

reactionary, absolute, and violent government was hated by all that was

young, intelligent, and liberal in the country. The Indian peasants

groaned under the burden of taxes imposed to subsidise a horde of

functionaries. Finances were in deplorable confusion; the public debts

left unpaid; population decreased, especially in the Andean region;

agriculture, industry, and commerce remained stationary, except in the

cacao districts on the coast. The lower classes had a hard struggle for

bare existence, and the parasitical ruling race was solely pre-occupied

with political war and intrigue. But it cannot fairly be said that

Flores or any other one man was responsible. The lamentable condition of

affairs resulted inevitably from the long struggle with Spain and from

the situation, character, and ideals of the people. But such a janizary

system of government was too burdensome, unwieldy, and wasteful not to

fall by its own weight sooner or later. The people were simply unable to

pay the taxes which Flores levied vainly trying to satisfy his troops.

Mutinies broke out among the latter, and the liberals were encouraged to

organise.

A revolutionary society was formed in Quito whose ramifications extended

among the enthusiastic youth in every part of the republic. In

Guayaquil, the wealthiest and most commercial city, the demand for

better financial administration became universal. In 1833 Vicente

Rocafuerte, the foremost of Ecuadorean liberals and the most

accomplished public man in the country, openly assumed the leadership of

the opposition to Flores. Elected a member of congress he bravely

defied the dictator, who sentenced him to banishment. But when he

reached Guayaquil the troops and citizens of that city arose to support

him. Flores led an army down the Andes and attacked and captured

Guayaquil, Rocafuerte and his partisans escaped and kept up the struggle

at different points of the coast, while sympathetic insurrections broke

out on the plateau in Flores's rear. Though the dictator finally

succeeded in capturing Rocafuerte, the only use he was able to make of

his victory was to secure better terms from the liberals. Rocafuerte and

he formed an alliance and together they pacified the country, the former

becoming president and the latter retaining command of the army. Ecuador

enjoyed her first real respite from civil war and tumult since 1809, and

Rocafuerte's inauguration in 1835 marks the beginning of civil and

constitutional government.

CHAPTER V

MODERN ECUADOR

President Rocafuerte was not only animated by revolutionary principles,

imbued with liberal ideas, and a student of the best political and

economic writers, but he proved to be a good administrator--practical,

cautious, and sure--and earned the title of the greatest of Ecuador's

reformers. His first step was to summon a constituent assembly which

divided the country into provinces and parishes, outlined a rational

scheme of administration, and made a substantial beginning toward

substituting civil for military government. Although he did not attempt

to carry into practice the dreams of radical liberals--impracticable

among a population nine-tenths Indians in semi-bondage, and in a country

where the clergy were dominant--he reformed the taxing system, set in

order the finances, so far as his means and knowledge would permit,

earnestly encouraged industry, agriculture, and commerce, repaired and

built roads, promulgated a new and humane criminal code, and established

schools. He set up the pyramids of the French geographers, showing that

tender regard for his country's repute abroad which is rarely absent in

statesmen of high character and noble aims. Under his administration

Ecuador assumed the payment of her proportion--twenty-one and a half per

cent., or one million eight hundred thousand pounds--of the debt

contracted by the defunct United States of Colombia during the war of

independence. However, this debt proved a burden too great for her

resources. Interest fell behind and the principal has been scaled down

repeatedly. Only in 1900 was an arrangement satisfactory to the

bondholders finally reached.

His efforts made Ecuador the second South American republic whose

independence was formally recognised by Spain. In religious matters he

proved true to his liberal convictions, and while never persecuting the

clergy always advocated religious freedom for the individual. But though

he set his country's feet in the path of progress, the steps were slow,

short, and uncertain. His alliance with the military element as

represented by Flores, and the religious and social conservatism of the

bulk of the people, hampered rapid progress. The radical liberals

conspired against him, but their plots were sternly stamped out.

Government remained essentially military and aristocratic, and active

participation was confined to the educated and military classes.

Nevertheless, a sort of equilibrium between the demands of the governing

caste and the capacities of the producing masses was reached, and a

certain degree of order replaced the indiscriminate exactions and

tyranny which the proletariat had endured ever since the first Spaniard

had landed. When Rocafuerte finished his term in 1839, Ecuador was at

peace and had recovered much of the material prosperity lost during the

long wars. On the plateau the Indians cultivated their wheat and

potatoes in security, while on the low coast lands the cacao industry

flourished, making Ecuador one of the chief sources of the world's

supply of chocolate and multiplying Guayaquil's population and wealth.

[Illustration: ECUADOR PEON'S HOUSE.]

Flores's command of the army insured him the succession to the

presidency. Though his return to power meant political reaction, the

beneficent effects of Rocafuerte's system had been too obvious to be

entirely ignored and hastily abandoned. Flores's first measures were

moderate, but his irrational ambition quickly led him into an expensive

and fruitless intervention in the Colombian civil war of 1840. His

financial difficulties and a return to military habits caused him to

adopt measures continually more arbitrary, and he went stubbornly ahead

with his schemes to make his dictatorship permanent. He forced the

adoption of a new Constitution lengthening the presidential term to

eight years, and caused himself to be declared elected in 1843. The

conflict with the liberals became acute; Rocafuerte protested and was

forced to fly for his life. The young radicals of Quito plotted the

tyrant's assassination, while the villagers of the plateau arose in

revolt against the gatherers of an obnoxious poll-tax. In 1845 a liberal

revolution broke out at Guayaquil. Flores descended from the table-land,

but the liberal army met and defeated him at the foot of the mountains,

and he accepted the offer of twenty thousand dollars in cash and a

pension to leave the country.

The better elements of the triumphant party were not able to keep the

upper hand. A new Constitution was hastily adopted and the mulatto Ramon

Roca installed as president. For four years he ruled while the gulf

between liberals and conservatives widened day by day, and factional

jealousies and ambitions within the dominant party became menacing. The

congress of 1849 quarrelled bitterly over the presidential succession

and was unable to agree on any one. Ambitious chiefs got arms and men

together, and after a year of uncertainty General Urbina, of Guayaquil,

issued a pronunciamento declaring Diego Noboa provisional head of the

government. A convention called for the purpose adopted a new

Constitution and elected Urbina's nominee president for the full term.

To the consternation of the liberals he recalled the Jesuits and gave

asylum to the defeated conservatives from Colombia, going so far as to

send troops to the frontier to aid in their restoration. But Urbina, to

whose command these forces had been entrusted, proclaimed himself

dictator and exiled Noboa. He promulgated a new Constitution--Ecuador's

sixth in twenty-two years,--persecuted the conservatives, and ruled for

four years as an ultra-liberal. At the expiration of his term in 1856 he

named his friend Robles as his successor, who maintained himself against

the conservative attacks until in 1859 his government became involved in

a war with Peru. When Robles and Urbina went to the Peruvian frontier

the conservatives rose behind them. As a matter of fact the country was

tired of the misrule of the military chiefs, miscalled liberals, whose

government was a compound of oppression for their enemies and license

for their friends. The clericals armed their adherents in the northern

villages and marched on Quito. The partisans of the administration at

the capital could oppose no effective resistance, and the insurgents

entered the city, and on May 1st installed a provisional government with

Garcia Moreno at its head. The latter at once pushed on south with a

small force, and, though defeated by Robles, he escaped to Peru, where

he received help for new operations. In spite of Moreno's temporary

reverse his friends retained possession of Quito, and the Peruvian

blockade of Guayaquil absorbed the president's attention. The forces

under Robles soon crumbled away, and he resigned and went into

banishment. Urbina, the real chief of the liberal party, had a small

body of troops in Cuenca with which he tried to maintain the unequal

contest, but his position soon became untenable and he followed Robles

into exile.

Moreno was now master of the whole Andean region. Guayaquil, however,

remained in the hands of a liberal chief; the Peruvian government had

tired of its bargain to support the Ecuadorian clericals; the blockade

was abandoned, and the Peruvian ships retired after making a treaty with

the Guayaquil authorities. This rid Moreno of an embarrassing

entanglement with a foreign power, although it left the Guayaquil

insurgents free to employ all their forces against him. Descending with

all the forces he could muster, his mountaineers defeated the coast

troops in every encounter, and on the 2d of September, 1860, Moreno

captured the great seaport, putting an end to open opposition in all

Ecuador. Every successful revolutionist in those days made his own

Constitution, so it is a waste of words to tell that Moreno summoned a

convention which promulgated a new fundamental law for the republic.

During the next fifteen years he remained the dominant personality in

Ecuadorian history. His biography is typical of the careers of the

higher class of Creole statesmen, and profoundly interesting to a

student of South American history as illustrating the difficulties with

which men of constructive minds and a passion for order have been

obliged to contend. A scion of one of the oldest and proudest Spanish

families, he had been proscribed in his youth, and spent the years of

his exile studying in the old world. He returned with his naturally fine

mind stored with the fruits of study and observation, but with his

prejudices of caste and religion unshaken. The clericals set all their

hopes on this brilliant young advocate, and his public life, his

opinions, and his personality resume the reactionary characteristics of

Ecuador. Nevertheless it is hard for an unprejudiced outsider to study

the history of his country during his time without retaining a strong

admiration for his abilities and force, even if not convinced that his

career made for the moral uplifting of the republic.

He found the finances in a wretched state. Salaries were unpaid,

the revenue amounted to less than a million pesos, and the government

was living from hand to mouth on twenty-per-cent. loans. He directed

his activity principally toward effecting urgent material

reforms--increasing the revenue by systematising taxation, suppressing

frauds and contraband, founding a mint and hospital at Quito, building

the great waggon-road from Quito to the southern provinces, and

connecting that remote and mountain-locked capital by a telegraph line

with Guayaquil. The whole of his own salary he devoted to the public

use, the laws were better enforced, life and property became safer, and

material prosperity increased. The government was centralised, the

semi-independency of the departments abolished, the Jesuits recalled,

the rights and privileges of the clergy restored and increased, and a

Concordat signed with the Holy See which virtually freed the Ecuadorian

Church from all secular control.

The Concordat was denounced throughout the continent as treason to South

American independence, and his relations with European diplomatic

representatives were so cordial and frank that rumours of his

willingness to accept a foreign protectorate or even annexation by Spain

were rife in the other capitals. The publication of his personal

correspondence with a French diplomatist raised such a storm against him

that other countries plotted his overthrow, and the democrats of

Colombia, victorious in the civil war of 1863, sent an army to the

frontier, proclaiming that their purpose was "to liberate the brother

democrats of Ecuador from the theocratic yoke of Professor Moreno." His

army was defeated in the battle of Cuaspud, but he stood firm and his

people showed no eagerness to accept Colombia's invitation and re-enter

that confederacy. Her army was unable to follow up its advantage, and

the danger quickly passed. When war broke out between Spain and Peru he,

like the Emperor of Brazil, refused to follow Chile's example and take

sides, against the mother country. In a word, his foreign policy was a

selfish but intelligent opportunism, and he was not influenced by vague

sentimental considerations and blind chauvinism.

In 1864 Urbina, with the countenance and assistance of Peru, invaded the

southern province, Loja, but the insurrection was promptly crushed. Next

year Moreno's term expired, and he named a disciple and friend to be

president in his place, but his own political preponderance was so

unquestioned and his prestige so enormous in the barracks, convents, and

pulperias that he continued the real ruler of the country. His

understudy did not please him and he demanded and received a

resignation. The incumbent next selected proved insubordinate and had to

be displaced by force. When Moreno declared himself provisional dictator

the Guayaquil liberals undertook an armed resistance, but by 1869 he was

firmly in the saddle once more. He kept his hold on the government,

apparently becoming more securely entrenched each year in the love and

confidence of the soldiery, the priests, and the common people. From the

safety of exile the liberals wrote crushing pamphlets against him and

his despotism, his favouritism toward the clergy, his steady, relentless

policy of conservatism and reaction. But their attempts at insurrection

were feeble and in 1875 he was re-elected as a matter of course. The

liberals, hopeless of ending his domination constitutionally or by open

war, had recourse to assassination. On the 6th of August a party of

young Creoles deliberately killed him at midday on the principal square

of Quito in the presence of the populace and the soldiery.

The murderers were executed and the vice-president succeeded to the

vacancy. However, no one appeared big enough to fill Moreno's shoes, and

his death made civil war inevitable. After a few months the

vice-president was deposed; then one of Moreno's ministers remained at

the head of affairs for a short time; but finally Antonio Borrero was

selected president in constitutional form. He proved not to possess the

resolution requisite to cope with the situation. General Veintemilla,

commander of the troops in Guayaquil, revolted in the name of the

liberal party, defeated Borrero, and went through the usual form of

summoning a convention, adopting a new Constitution, and having himself

named president. He held power insecurely and by the aid of a personal

party from 1878 to 1883, but neither conservatives nor liberals were

satisfied. The radicals attacked him furiously for not putting in

practice anti-clerical principles, and the conservatives never trusted

him. When his constitutional term expired, the army proclaimed him

dictator, but he soon fell before the combined forces of his enemies.

During the fighting Jose Camano came to the front, and now seized the

presidency. Alfaro, the principal liberal leader who had co-operated

with Camano in overthrowing Veintemilla, made war against his late ally,

but was defeated. The new president, once securely in his seat, formed

close relations with the clergy and the old partisans of Moreno, and

though the liberal chiefs kept up a guerilla warfare in the forests and

swamps, he finished out his term. In 1888 he was succeeded by Antonio

Flores, who followed his predecessor's policy in the main, and was in

his turn succeeded by another friend of Camano's--Luis Cordero. It was

not until 1895 that the liberals were able to gather their forces for a

formidable rebellion. Camano was then governor of Guayaquil, and the

immediate occasion of the outbreak was the charge that he had taken part

in the sale of the Chilean iron-clad, _Esmeralda_, to Japan, then at war

with China. It was claimed that Ecuador had acted as a go-between and

committed a wilful breach of the rules governing the conduct of neutral

nations. President Cordero's prestige was seriously compromised by this

incident. His forces were defeated in several actions and he resigned.

Alfaro, who had been in exile since 1883, returned, took possession of

Guayaquil, was proclaimed dictator, and finally completely overthrew the

conservatives in the battle of Gatajo. His election to the presidency

followed in 1897, and he was succeeded four years later by the present

incumbent, General Leonidas Plaza.

[Illustration: PRINCIPAL STREET IN GUAYAQUIL.]

The Ecuador coast is one of the most fertile and lovely regions on the

earth. It already furnishes a considerable proportion of those tropical

products of which the great nations of the temperate zone demand more

every year. Like a Luzon which has been stranded at the foot of the

Andes, its green shores refresh the eyes of the north-bound traveller

tired of the dreary desert that stretches from Valparaiso to the Gulf of

Guayaquil; it possesses the best harbour on the Pacific south of Panama

and one of the few in all South America which is not mountain-locked.

Between the Cordillera and the sea there is room for untold millions of

cacao and coffee trees. In spite of civil war and political upheavals

which have made her custom-house so often the prey of irresponsible

bandits, masquerading under the name of dictators, Guayaquil's

population and wealth have increased until she has outstripped the hoary

old capital, which, enthroned on a volcano side, overlooks a narrow

strip of cultivable land. Nevertheless the plateau is still predominant

in the Ecuadorian state, and supports a vast majority of the

population. Nine-tenths of the inhabitants of the Andean region are

Indians, mostly in a condition not far removed from bondage, by

circumstance and their own distrustful natures shut up within the narrow

limits of an existence which has no outlook over the mountains. None the

less, they are sturdy fellows, admirably suited to the climate of those

high altitudes, and though their numbers have been practically

stationary since the Spanish conquest, the failure to increase has been

rather due to lack of room than to misgovernment, vice, or the want of

the qualities that make for success in the struggle for existence. In

that day, now near at hand, when a great railway shall connect the

string of towns on the Ecuador plateau with Peru and Colombia, and when

branches shall run to the ports and take the place of the well-nigh

impassable trails down the tremendous, rain-soaked slopes of the Andes,

the mountain region of Ecuador may be transformed and revivified by new

systems of agriculture, and the artistic taste and remarkable ingenuity

of the people may find a market and a reward. The railway from Guayaquil

long stopped at the foot of the mountains, but within the last three

years the almost insurmountable difficulties of the ascent have been

overcome by American engineers, and the line is being rapidly built

along the plateau to Quito. Ecuador already supplies the world with

Panama hats, and other manual industries may flourish when unfavourable

transportation conditions are removed. Not only are the common people

patiently industrious, but they possess innate good taste and artistic

feeling. Such a people has special aptitudes, sure to give it a place in

that vastly complicated workshop into which the multifarious needs of

modern civilisation are transforming the earth. The plateau of Ecuador

does not, however, offer room for any considerable immigration, and its

wheat, barley, and potatoes do not and will not much more than suffice

for local consumption. Ecuador's great future lies in the beautiful and

as yet sparsely peopled Pacific plain, and in the vast and absolutely

unknown forests which stretch east from the Andes.

VENEZUELA

CHAPTER I

CONQUEST, SETTLEMENT, AND COLONIAL DAYS

On his third voyage in 1498 Columbus sighted the Venezuelan coast just

south of the Windward Islands. A year later, Alonso de Ojeda saw the

mainland at about the same place and skirted the coast for four hundred

miles west without finding any important break in a line of mountains

which rose almost directly from the sea to a height of three to nine

thousand feet, covered to their very tops with luxuriant vegetation. But

there was no such barrier as that made by the main Andes on the Pacific;

the passes were only half a mile instead of nearly three miles high; the

slopes were not dry and desolate as in Peru, or covered with a tangled

mass of forest as in Pacific Columbia and Ecuador. Just beyond the

harbour where Puerto Cabello now stands, the coast-line turned abruptly

to the north-west, leaving the mountains farther inland, but the

intervening plain was swampy and uninviting. Still following west, Ojeda

rounded Cape San Roman and turned south into the great Gulf of

Maracaibo. There he saw Indian villages of houses built on piles near

the shallow shores, and he called the place Venezuela--"little

Venice,"--a name shortly extended to the whole coast from the mouth of

the Orinoco west to the forbidding and uninhabitable peninsula of

Goajira, which forms the western promontory of the Gulf of Maracaibo.

There is no record that either Columbus or Ojeda effected a permanent

landing, and it was not until 1510 that some adventurers founded a

settlement on the small island of Cubagua, in the channel between the

large island of Margarita and the mainland. This was a mere nest of

pirates who persecuted the Indians of the shore, kidnapping and selling

them as slaves to the Spaniards on the Antilles, and it was shortly

abandoned. In 1520, on the coast just opposite, was founded the

settlement of Cumana, the oldest city on the South American continent,

which, though destroyed by the natives, was rebuilt in 1525, when

valuable pearl fisheries were discovered in the neighbouring waters of

Margarita. However, the place remained of little importance and did not

become a centre for the colonisation of the adjacent country, the

Spaniards attaching little value to this region because it contained no

gold washings.

The real colonisation of Venezuela began four hundred miles farther west

with the foundation in 1527 of the city of Coro on the narrow neck of

land which separates the Gulf of Maracaibo from the Caribbean Sea.

Thence there was easy access by water to the shores of the great lagoon,

or by land over the coast plain to the north-western slopes of the

Andean range which runs south-west to the giant plateau of Pamplona just

over the Colombian border. The Andean valleys were filled with gold, and

among the higher mountains lay fertile plateaux, cultivated by tribes of

semi-civilised Indians. Altogether the region was well calculated to

stimulate the cupidity of adventurers.

Charles V. granted the Venezuela coast to the Welser family of Augsburg,

the greatest merchants of their time and his heavy creditors. Under

their commission the first adelantado, Alfinger, took possession of Coro

and conducted various expeditions south-west along the Andes, perishing

near Pamplona about 1531. His successors continued these murdering,

kidnapping incursions into the interior, often being led to their ruin

among remote mountain fastnesses by tales of a mythical Eldorado, where

the rivers ran over silver sands, the palaces were of solid gold with

doors and columns of diamonds and emeralds, and the Indian king every

morning covered his body with gold dust and bathed in precious aromatic

essences.

Eighteen years, however, elapsed before the Spaniards established a

permanent settlement in the interior, and only in 1545 was the city of

Tocuyo founded in a beautiful Andean valley a hundred and fifty miles

south of Coro. But the cruelties of the proprietors' agents scandalised

public opinion. Charles V. declared their concession cancelled and a

governor, responsible directly to the government, was appointed in 1547.

Thenceforward the settlement of Venezuela proceeded more rapidly. Five

years later the city of Barquisimeto, fifty miles north of Tocuyo and

near the point where the Andes join the coast range, was established on

a secure footing after hard fighting with the Indians; in 1555 the

Spaniards penetrated east a hundred miles along the lovely plateaux of

the coast mountains, and founded Valencia. The following year they

settled Trujillo, fifty miles south-west of Tocuyo, and two years later

Merida, a hundred miles farther in the same direction and not far from

the Colombian frontier.

To the east of Valencia lay valuable gold washings, and to work these

the Spaniards fixed a camp at San Francisco in the Aragua Valley about

1560. This is the garden spot of Venezuela, and the warlike Teques

Indians, under their terrible chief, Guaicaipuro, massacred the miners

and defeated several expeditions from Valencia and Barquisimeto. It was

not until 1567 that the Spaniards succeeded in establishing their power

in the valley of Caracas, which, a hundred miles east of Valencia, lies

close to the shore, although three thousand feet above sea-level and

separated from the ocean by high mountains. The defensibility of the

site as well as the fertility of the soil pointed it out as the best

place for the seat of government. A city was founded which ten years

later replaced Coro as the capital of the province, and shortly

thereafter a port was opened at La Guaira giving direct communication

with Spain. The savage tribes fought more pertinaciously than the

civilised natives of Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and northern Chile and

Argentina, and a greater number of Europeans and negroes replaced those

who were slain. Finally, however, the majority submitted, and were

incorporated as peasants into the Spanish system.

By the end of the sixteenth century the Spaniards had obtained

undisputed possession of that lovely strip of mountainous country which

extends from Cape Codera west between two parallel coast ranges to

Barquisimeto and thence west-south-west nearly to the head of Lake

Maracaibo--a belt some four hundred miles long and fifty or seventy-five

wide. They also held the great peninsula east of Maracaibo Gulf, and had

established outlying settlements in the llanos south of the mountains,

besides the two isolated ports--Cumana on the eastern coast and

Maracaibo on the western. Notwithstanding the sack of Caracas in 1595 by

the daring British buccaneer, Amyas Preston, the colony prospered.

Unlike the Pacific coast, it had easy and direct communication with the

Antilles and Europe; the altitude was great enough to ensure a healthful

climate, while its fertile valleys could be reached from the sea in a

few hours over easy passes, far different from those formidable gorges

which are the only ways of reaching the table-lands of Colombia,

Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. The interior, instead of being a heavily

forested plain like that of the Amazon, practically inaccessible behind

tremendous rain-soaked declivities, was an open prairie into which the

mountains sank gently, and whose grassy expanses afforded pasture for

innumerable herds. These geographical and topographical features have

been determinative of Venezuela's development and history, political as

well as industrial.

In the early years of the seventeenth century the long-neglected Cumana

district on the eastern coast began to be developed. The city of

Barcelona was founded in 1617 near a magnificent body of grazing land

and in the best tobacco country in Venezuela, where the Indians had

grown the plant for untold generations. Barcelona soon became an

important centre of population, and the starting-point for missionaries

to the interior tribes. The gold placers which had attracted the first

adventurers to the mountains west of Caracas became exhausted within a

few decades. Nevertheless, the fertile lands, distributed among the

Spaniards in encomiendas, continued to be cultivated by Indian and negro

labour, but, although maize, bananas, potatoes, and in the higher

valleys even wheat, as well as the vine and olive, with the cattle

introduced by Europeans, furnished an abundant supply of food, to say

nothing of tobacco and sugar, Spain's blind colonial policy virtually

prevented export of agricultural products. The Spanish authorities

wanted nothing from their American dominions but gold and silver, and

when Venezuela's placers were exhausted the colony was neglected. It was

in spite of the prohibition of the Spanish government that cacao trees

were introduced, and the exportation which soon grew up--the first of

any importance from Venezuela--was mostly clandestine. Practically all

the goods legally imported had to be procured from the Cadiz monopoly,

and were sent to the Isthmus and there transhipped into coasting

vessels, paying enormous freight charges, profits, and duties. Tobacco

and salt were monopolised by government concessionaires, and not a

chicken could be sold in the markets without paying an exorbitant tax.

Education was completely neglected. It was not until 1696 that a

priests' school was established in Caracas, and when the city of Merida

asked a similar boon, it was denied because "His Catholic Majesty did

not deem it wise that education should become general in America." So

the Creoles grew up nearly as ignorant as the Indians around them,

although retaining all the fierce pride of their Spanish descent,

acknowledging no man as superior, and retaining very dim sentiments of

loyalty to the mother country. Nevertheless, the ancient municipal

forms, traditional among peoples of Spanish descent, survived,

furnishing the framework of civil government, while the priesthood

constituted a moral and intellectual tie binding the Creoles to their

Castilian ancestors.

The repressive regulations against commerce could not be perfectly

enforced. Although the arrival of a ship from Spain was a real event,

British, Dutch, and French traders frequented the coast, opening markets

with their swords, and often turning buccaneers and sacking a town when

not satisfied with their reception. But the burning of a few coast

hamlets was more than compensated by the advantages of practical

free-trade, and Venezuela owed much of the prosperity she enjoyed during

the seventeenth century to these semi-pirates. The settlements crept

along the Andean valleys to the Colombian frontier; the Creoles ventured

farther and farther into the wide plains of the Orinoco and their cattle

were soon roaming half-wild in the immense and luxuriant pastures

stretching south of the agricultural strip. From the mixture of the

Indians of the llanos with Europeans sprang a new race of men, the

semi-nomadic llaneros, whose hardiness, courage, horsemanship, and

prowess as hunters of big game have given them equal celebrity with the

gauchos of the Argentine, the cossacks of the Russian steppes, or the

Texas cowboys. The buccaneers and smuggling traders were especially

active in the latter part of the seventeenth century. In 1654 Frenchmen

were repelled in an attack on Cumana, but in 1669 the Britisher, Morgan,

sacked Maracaibo, and in 1679 the French pillaged Caracas itself. The

paralysis suffered by Spain during the war of the Spanish Succession

nearly destroyed Venezuelan commerce, and it did not recover with the

peace of Utrecht. Only five ships arrived in the first thirty years of

the eighteenth century, and from 1706 to 1721 not a single vessel sailed

for Spain.

The Spanish government determined to try if another system would not

bring a larger revenue into the royal treasury. The Guipuzcoa Company

was granted an exclusive franchise to buy and sell in the colony, and

the operations of this powerful corporation galvanised commerce into a

certain activity. In order to stimulate the receipt of hides, and

prevent the incursions of wild plains Indians, trading posts were

established in the llanos, and soon the prairies south of Valencia and

Caracas rivalled the Barcelona country in cattle, and the ranches

extended up the Apure, the great western tributary of the Orinoco, to

the foot of the Colombian Andes. Meanwhile expeditions penetrated up the

Orinoco from its mouth, and in 1764 the city of Angostura was

established four hundred miles from the sea. The operations of the

Guipuzcoa Company did not aid in establishing a more friendly

understanding between the home government and the Venezuelan Creoles.

The independent merchants constantly quarrelled with the company's

agents; the low prices for which they were compelled to sell their stock

outraged the ranch owners; the farmers resented the monopolisation of

tobacco and the restrictions on sugar-culture; exorbitant prices were

demanded for imported goods. Protests became so loud that special

commissioners were sent from Spain to investigate, but they gave

no satisfactory relief. Shortly after the foundation of the

Guipuzcoa Company, Venezuela had been raised to the dignity of a

captaincy-general. The increased efficiency of the administration

assisted the monopoly in suppressing clandestine trading, and the

feeling grew to such a height that in 1749 a Creole leader, named Leon,

menaced Caracas itself at the head of six thousand armed men, demanding

the suppression of the company and the expulsion of its factors. The

captain-general was forced to yield and the revolutionists dispersed,

but his promise was never redeemed. The active measures of the company

effectually shut off foreign trading-ships, and the ports were so

fortified that the British expeditions retired defeated from the

attacks they made in 1739 and 1743 on La Guaira and Puerto Cabello,

although in 1797 they captured the island of Trinidad and menaced the

entrance to the Orinoco. It was not until 1778, when the Spanish

government finally abandoned the monopolistic colonial system and opened

all the ports of South America to free commerce with each other and with

Spain, that the Guipuzcoa Company retired from business. Six years

before this the provinces of Maracaibo, Cumana, and Guiana--as the lower

Orinoco region was called,--all of which had heretofore been directly

dependent upon the viceroy of Bogota, were placed under the jurisdiction

of the captain-general of Caracas, fixing the modern boundaries of

Venezuela.

CHAPTER II

THE REVOLT

Venezuela's conditions during colonial times produced a people

possessing in the clearest and most accentuated form the characteristics

distinctive of the Spanish Creole. Not more than one per cent. of the

total population of over eight hundred thousand were native Spaniards;

fifteen per cent. were Creoles of pure European descent; sixty per cent.

were Indian, two-thirds of whom had an admixture of white blood; and

three-fourths of the twenty-five per cent. of negroes and mulattoes were

free. The majority did not consist of docile, inert, pure-bred natives

as in Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, and Paraguay, though the white element was

not so large that the Creoles had ceased to occupy the position of a

governing and property-owning caste who lived upon the labour of the

half-breeds, Indians, and negroes. They regarded themselves as a

superior class, entitled by birth to exemption from manual labour, and

even considered commercial pursuits unworthy a gentleman.

[Illustration: ANCIENT INDIAN ROCK FOR GRINDING MAIZE.]

The Spanish government had concerned itself little with this purely

agricultural colony, and its hand was felt only in the collection of

taxes. The officials were comparatively few, the number of resident

Spaniards small, and neither mutual commercial interests nor a solid

administration existed to strengthen the flimsy ties that bound

Venezuela to the mother-country. So little had the interference of the

Spanish government been felt since the abolishment of the Guipuzcoa

Company that no well-defined and widespread sentiment in favour of

separation existed. There was a vague feeling of dissatisfaction among

the masses, but their ignorance prevented them from forming any rational

plans for the betterment of their condition. However, the Venezuelan

coast is so accessible that the fertilising and disturbing currents of

trade and ideas had really profoundly modified the people, and the

leaven of unrest was at work. The wealthier Creoles had imbibed radical

notions and were ambitious of trying their hands at governing. By

heredity, social custom, and environment indisposed to industry and

commerce, their unemployed activities naturally flowed into the channel

of politics, intrigue, and fighting.

The first outbreak owed its origin to events in Spain. In 1796 a

republican conspiracy was brought to light on the Peninsula, and several

of its leaders were exiled to La Guaira. In their prison they were

visited by many prominent Creoles, into whose minds they inculcated

their republican principles, and it was not long before the existence of

an extensive republican plot among the Creoles of La Guaira and Caracas

was denounced to the captain-general. Many persons were arrested, and of

the two principals, Espana expiated his treason on the scaffold, while

the other, Gual, escaped into exile. But the seed of revolution had been

planted, and many leading Creoles entered into correspondence with the

British authorities on Trinidad, who promised aid in arms, munitions,

and ships. Francisco Miranda, a native of Caracas, who had fought under

Washington, and distinguished himself at Valmy and Jemappes as a soldier

of the French republic, planned an invasion with the avowed purpose of

achieving Venezuelan separation from Spain. With three ships manned by

American filibusters he sailed from New York early in 1806, and

attempted to land at Ocumare, near Puerto Cabello. But the Spanish

authorities had been warned and he was beaten in a sea-fight where he

lost sixty prisoners. Ten North Americans were condemned by

court-martial and shot in Puerto Cabello, and their names are inscribed

on a monument recently erected in the principal square of the town. The

captain-general offered thirty thousand dollars for Miranda's head, but

the latter retired to Jamaica, where, with the help of the British

authorities, he organised a force of five hundred foreigners. Three

months later he made a descent on Coro, effected a landing, and took the

city. But the population remained inert, and the indifferent or hostile

attitude of the region forced him to withdraw.

Though the western provinces received Miranda so coldly, among the

Creoles of the upper classes at Caracas aspirations for constitutional

government, autonomy, and even for independence had made headway in the

ten years since the suppression of the conspiracy of Gual and Espana. In

1808 French commissioners arrived bringing the news of Ferdinand's

expulsion. They were empowered to receive the allegiance of the colony

for Joseph Bonaparte, but the captain-general hesitated and asked the

advice of leading citizens, who proved unanimous against recognising the

French regime. The captain-general's vacillation gave the Creoles of the

cabildo a predominance in governmental councils. Although in the middle

of the following year it was decided to recognise the Seville junta as

supreme, pending Ferdinand's return, this decision was reached only

after many debates, and a numerous party among the Creoles saw no

reason why Venezuela should not establish a junta of her own. The news

of the frightful cruelties perpetrated by Goyeneche in suppressing the

junta at La Paz excited great indignation among Creoles; the

anti-Spanish feeling grew rapidly; and when, on the 19th of April, 1810,

the captain-general summoned an open cabildo to receive the news that

the French armies had overrun nearly the whole of Spain and that only

Cadiz remained faithful to Ferdinand, the electors had no sooner met

than, excited by suggestions of ambitious persons, they turned into a

mob howling for the resignation of the captain-general and the

establishment of a Caracas junta. Accordingly a junta was named which

exiled the Spanish functionaries and sent messages to the provincial

capitals demanding their adhesion. The cities of the mountain strip

extending from Cumana to the Colombian Andes responded favourably and

sent delegates to Caracas, while Maracaibo, Coro, and Guiana refused. As

a matter of fact the masses as yet took little interest. The Caracas

revolution was effected by a few determined spirits, and the adhesion of

the mountain provinces was given by Creole municipal authorities who saw

in the change an opportunity to better their personal fortunes. Nor was

the resistance of Coro and Maracaibo so much inspired by love of Spain

as by the presence of the resolute, clear-headed Jose Ceballos, who

gathered troops and sent emissaries into the revolted provinces. The

Caracas junta responded by raising an army which marched toward Coro,

and the civil war was on.

The news of the massacre of the Ecuadorean revolutionists at Quito in

August, 1810, warned the junta Creoles that they had engaged in no

child's play. A commission went to London to solicit the intervention of

the British government in reaching an accommodation with the patriot

authorities in Spain, but the Seville junta declared the Caracas

revolutionists traitors. The commissioners fell under Miranda's

influence and he convinced them that an open declaration of independence

was the only course left. Meanwhile the troops sent to conquer Coro had

been defeated by Ceballos. Threatened by the royalist arms, unable to

count on the support of any considerable proportion of the rural

population of even their own provinces, the Creoles of the ruling

coterie proceeded to extreme measures. A congress met in March and on

the 5th of July, 1811, adopted a declaration of independence,

proclaiming the seven provinces of Cumana, Barcelona, Caracas, Barinas,

Trujillo, Merida, and Margarita free and sovereign states. Venezuela

was, therefore, the first independent republic in Spanish America.

Congress adopted a Constitution full of the most radical reforms and

advanced ideas, and a handful of political theorists and advanced

radicals took the direction of affairs, and imposed their crude theories

on a bewildered and reluctant population. The ruling clique issued fiat

money in immense quantities, and the resulting disorganisation of

business increased discontent.

Miranda, who had come from Europe to take command of military

operations, warned them that the fabric was not strong enough to

withstand the shock of battle, but the eager young reformers persisted.

The clergy and the native Spaniards were the first to react. Though an

outbreak of the Spaniards in Caracas was bloodily suppressed, the

priests stirred up the people of Valencia, and that city--the second in

the republic--declared against the Caracas government. Miranda succeeded

in reducing the place only after costly fighting. The ruling clique did

what they could to raise and equip troops to meet the approaching

attacks from Coro and the West Indies, but their efforts were hampered

by loyalist risings. In February, 1812, Monteverde, a Spanish leader,

marched with a small detachment south from Coro, and northern Trujillo

welcomed him. Defeating the patriot forces wherever he met them and

refusing quarter to his prisoners, he prepared to advance eastward on

the centre of the revolution. The junta was already trembling, when, on

the 26th of March, a terrific earthquake devastated the revolted

provinces. The solid ground rocked with such violent oscillations that

in less than a minute the cities of Caracas, Barquisimeto, and Merida

were mere heaps of ruins. Twelve thousand persons perished in Caracas

alone. The loyalist provinces escaped injury, and the priests preached

that the earthquake was a punishment sent by God upon impious rebellion.

The people of Barquisimeto joined Monteverde, and he marched east,

slaughtering the raw recruits with which the patriot leaders tried to

block his way. Merida, Trujillo, and Barinas declared for the king, and

an expedition sent from Caracas to the lower Orinoco was destroyed.

Monteverde entered Valencia unopposed and only the coast from Caracas

east to Cumana remained to the republic. In despair the politicians made

Miranda dictator, but, though the army numbered five thousand, he had no

confidence in his men. He signed a capitulation and tried to fly while

his army dispersed or joined the loyalist forces. On the 30th of July

Monteverde entered Caracas and the first Venezuelan revolution ceased to

exist.

Among the volunteer officers who had been entrusted with positions of

confidence by Miranda was a young Creole, named Simon Bolivar. Heir to

some of the largest estates in Venezuela he had been left an orphan at

three years of age, and was educated by a tutor who filled his

marvellously impressible mind with a crude political philosophy, and

under whose teachings he evolved original theories of government which

all the wars, debates, and revolutions of his stormy life failed to

modify. Preoccupied with his own ideas, he gave no heed to the counsels

of others, took no thought of obstacles, and, victor or vanquished,

stubbornly followed his own way, always confident of infallibility and

persevering in the face of difficulties that would have appalled a

rational man. From his earliest childhood a little feudal lord, owing

obedience to no parent, with hundreds of slaves at his orders, his

precocious intelligence the object of that ruinous admiration with which

thoughtless strangers and servants spoil a rich and lonely child, his

naturally strong will uncurbed by any discipline, he grew into

manhood--arrogant, uncompromising, solitary, suspicious, a deep thinker,

wildly ambitious, marvellously brilliant, though lacking steady

common-sense, blindly confident of his own moral and intellectual

infallibility, firmly convinced that he was destined for vague great

things, inordinately fond of honours and praise, and absolutely unable

to distinguish his desires of gratifying selfish ambitions, and his

yeasty notions of regenerating mankind. At sixteen he went to Spain to

complete his education; his wealth procured him an entrance into the

aristocratic families of Madrid; and he even penetrated the precincts of

the ceremonious court and had the honour of playing ball with the lad

who afterwards became Ferdinand VII. When only eighteen he married a

beautiful girl, who died shortly after he brought her back to Caracas.

For the rest of his life he remained without family ties. Again he went

to Europe and wandered through England, France, and Italy, falling more

and more under the spell of the mighty spirit of Napoleon the Great. At

the age of twenty-three Bolivar returned to his native country and took

up his life as a rich slave-owner. When the revolution broke out in 1810

he took no part until the junta requested him to go to England on the

embassy previously mentioned. There he became acquainted with Miranda,

and, appreciating that the South American revolution must be decided by

arms, made up his mind that only as a soldier could he put himself at

the head of affairs in Venezuela. His first essays in the military art

were not successful, and it was he who lost Puerto Cabello, giving the

first revolution its _coup de grace_. But a situation in which others

saw no hope he regarded as an opportunity, and he resolved to devote his

life to South American independence.

Bolivar went to Cartagena in Colombia and offered his sword to the

patriot junta which ruled that city. Given a small military command on

the Magdalena River, he embodied a few militia and surprised two posts

which were obstructing the navigation of the river. Delighted at these

successes, the Cartagena junta sent him reinforcements, with which he

captured Ocana, an important city lying east of the Magdalena and not

far from Pamplona and the Venezuelan border. The loyalists had collected

a considerable force in the Venezuelan province of Barinas, with which

they proposed to advance into Pamplona. The patriot chief of this

Colombian province appealed to Bolivar and this suggested to him the

Napoleonic plan of relieving Pamplona and reconquering Venezuela. On his

own responsibility he dashed with only four hundred men over the Andes

in front of Ocana, descended into the plain north of Lake Maracaibo,

took the royalists on their march to Pamplona by surprise, and routed

them. Joined by the patriots from Pamplona, he received formal

authorisation to drive the Spaniards from the Venezuelan provinces of

Merida and Trujillo. His movements among the mountain valleys were like

lightning flashes, and though the Spanish forces were more numerous

their commanders were demoralised by his attacks made in defiance of all

the rules of prudent warfare. Within fifty days there was not an enemy

left in the two provinces, and Bolivar's army had been trebled by

enlistments. The New Granadan government ordered him to pause, but he

paid no heed. Issuing a proclamation that no quarter would be given, he

crossed the mountains south-west into the province of Barinas,

annihilated the Spanish forces there, and rushing to the east caught

another army of a thousand men near Valencia and destroyed it.

Monteverde had no time to concentrate his scattered forces, and the news

of this last defeat caused him to flee to the protection of the

fortifications of Puerto Cabello. Bolivar occupied Valencia and Caracas

without resistance. In a campaign of ninety days, with a handful of New

Granadans and mountaineers from western Venezuela, he had defeated and

dispersed over four thousand royalists, and conquered the country from

the Andes to the capital.

Only the lower plains of the Orinoco and the coast provinces of

Maracaibo and Coro remained royalist, for while Bolivar had been

overrunning the west, another young Creole, Marino, had led a small

expedition from the island of Margarita, captured Maturin just east of

the mouth of the Orinoco, and with the military stores found there armed

the inhabitants of Cumana province, made ripe for revolt by the

cruelties of Monteverde. The Spanish attempts to recover Maturin by

assault were repulsed with great slaughter, and Marino followed up his

success by besieging Cumana. By the time Bolivar reached Caracas the

place was in the last extremities of starvation, and Monteverde's

flight was a signal for its surrender. There were therefore two

dictators in Venezuela, and Marino sent to Bolivar to treat about the

form of government, but the latter had determined on a centralised

administration with himself supreme. Marino refused to agree, and only

the activity of the loyalists prevented a war between him and Bolivar.

Monteverde held out in Puerto Cabello, and when reinforcements arrived

from Spain resumed the offensive. Though Bolivar won a victory at Las

Trincheiras, and was greeted on his return to Caracas with the title of

"Liberator," reaction had in fact begun. Reports of loyalist movements

came from all sides; Bolivar's power was confined to the towns; the

terrible Boves roused the llaneros and gathered the nucleus of a

formidable army of horsemen. Ceballos sallied out from Coro and captured

Barquisimeto, utterly defeating Bolivar when the latter attacked him.

Difficulties, however, only stimulated this remarkable man to fresh

exertions. The patriot leader, Campo Elias, overthrew Boves's horsemen

near Calabozo on the llanos south of Caracas, killing the prisoners and

butchering every man in the town because it had helped the loyalists.

This cruel deed decided the llaneros for the Spanish side, and though

Bolivar, with the assistance of Campo Elias's troops, won the pitched

battle of Araure from Ceballos, Boves had escaped to the plains there to

recruit another army of llaneros, which was destined to expel the

Liberator.

Bolivar was soon reduced to the possession of Caracas and its

neighbouring valleys, with a feeble reserve at Valencia. Marino had

thirty-five hundred men, and Bolivar finally agreed to recognise him as

dictator of the eastern provinces as the price of his help. But their

union only put off the evil day. Boves crushed Campo Elias at La Puerta

and advanced on Caracas. Raging like a trapped wild beast, Bolivar

ordered the wholesale assassination of eight hundred and sixty-six

Spaniards confined at La Guaira. His desperation inspired his followers,

and when Boves attacked the entrenchments outside Caracas and rushed the

patriot magazine, the young Granadan who was in command, seeing that the

place could not be held, ordered his men to fly, but when the loyalists

triumphantly rushed into the building they found him in the act of

throwing a match into the powder. In the explosion eight hundred of the

assaulting column were blown into the air and the survivors desisted.

Marino was coming by forced marches from the east along the plains, and

Boves retired to cut him off, while Ceballos also abandoned the siege of

Valencia. Marino eluded Boves and beat off one attack. If the Liberator

had concentrated his forces and united with his colleague the patriots

would have stood a chance, but he sent most of his own troops to recover

the west, joining Marino with only a few men. At La Puerta on the 14th

of June, 1814, the battle decisive of the second Venezuelan revolution

was fought. The desperate charges of Boves's llanero horsemen

overwhelmed the patriots, and more than half their number were left dead

on the field. Bolivar fled to Caracas, gathered all the money and

jewels, and, encumbered by a great multitude of fugitives, retreated

east. But at Aragua the patriots were driven out of their trenches with

terrific slaughter. The Liberator took ship at Barcelona with the

intention of making a last stand near the mouth of the Orinoco, but his

comrades had had enough of him. He was declared a traitor and Rivas put

in command. The remaining patriots managed to repulse one attack of the

royalists, but in a second they were defeated, and in a third Boves

slaughtered them nearly to the last man, although he himself was killed

in the melee. Only a few scattered bands on the plateaux of Barcelona

and the plains of the upper Orinoco kept up a resistance. The detachment

which Bolivar had so imprudently sent west before the battle of La

Puerta escaped into New Granada, while the Liberator went by sea to that

country and took service under its government.

The revolution headed by Bolivar and Marino had been crushed by Boves,

Morales, and Ceballos with troops recruited in Venezuela itself.

Monteverde's defeat and Boves's death left Morales master of Venezuela,

and virtually independent of outside control. But by 1815 Ferdinand was

securely on the throne of Spain, and absolutism had replaced the

Constitution established by the popular leaders of 1812. The Spanish

government determined to suppress the revolutionists who still

maintained themselves in New Granada and the Argentine, and to reduce

the semi-independent royalist chiefs to a more exact obedience. In

April, Morillo, Spain's ablest general, arrived near Cumana at the head

of ten thousand veteran regulars. Morales sailed out to meet the Marshal

and place his troops at his orders, but the regular officers gazed in

astonishment at the dark-skinned llaneros, wearing only a hat and a

waist-cloth, who were the pillars of royal authority in Venezuela. At

first the Spaniards accepted the aid of these half-savage allies, but

Morillo lost no time in establishing a military despotism in which the

llanero chiefs had no place. Even more unpopular was his leaving three

thousand Spaniards to garrison Venezuela while he impressed an equal

number of native troops to accompany him on his expedition against New

Granada. Nearly a third of the latter deserted rather than embark, and

the attitude of the Spanish officers who were left behind to rule the

country roused the native instinct for independence.

Meanwhile the scattered bands of patriot guerillas on the western

headwaters of the Orinoco, near the Granadan border, had been uniting

and increasing in strength. Jose Antonio Paez, a mixed-blood, only

twenty-six years old, who could neither read nor write, but of herculean

strength and skill in the use of lance and sword, proved the leader for

the occasion. A small corps in which he was a simple captain was

threatened by the Spanish governor of Barinas at the head of fourteen

hundred men. His own commander wished to retreat, but Paez persuaded

five hundred reckless fellows to follow him in a night assault. Leading

his men in a furious charge he bore down the enemy with a rush, killing

four hundred and taking many prisoners, whom he treated so well that

they all joined him. The fame of his success spread through the llanos

and the rough plainsmen, dissatisfied with the discipline and routine of

the regular Spanish officers, flocked to the banner of this new

chieftain, and he began the organisation of the army of the Apure,

destined to be the principal instrument in the redemption of Venezuela.

Meanwhile the guerilla chiefs farther down the Orinoco made headway

against the Spaniards, and the whole plain turned to the patriot side.

Hearing of these successes, Bolivar resolved to return to Venezuela. He

landed near the mouth of the Orinoco, but was soon driven thence and

took ship for Ocumare, near Puerto Cabello. From this point he sent a

small expedition inland towards Valencia under the command of MacGregor,

who achieved some successes against isolated bodies of loyalists, was

joined by many llaneros, and finally made his way to the plains of

Barcelona, while Bolivar was compelled to re-embark and flee to Hayti.

MacGregor took the city of Barcelona, and then with the assistance of

the negro chief, Piar, who had been besieging Cumana, repulsed Morales

himself at the battle of Juncal. By the end of 1816 the patriots had

gained so many advantages that Morillo thought himself obliged to return

to Venezuela at the head of huge reinforcements. However, the patriot

cause needed a head. The chieftains were rude and ignorant men with a

talent for fighting and nothing more, while Bolivar was a man of wide

and varied accomplishments. In spite of his failures he retained great

prestige among the Creole officers. He was agreed upon as

general-in-chief, and in December landed at Barcelona. But Piar had led

his victorious army over to the Orinoco, and notwithstanding Bolivar's

entreaties the llaneros persisted in their refusal to return to a

country where cavalry could not manoeuvre to advantage. When Bolivar

arrived at Piar's headquarters near Angostura he appreciated that the

true theatre for a successful war had been found. In those plains the

llanero cavalry, which formed the bulk of the patriot force, was

invincible. Morillo also realised that the coast would not long remain

tenable if the line of the Orinoco were in the hands of the patriots,

and he sent a regular force of three thousand men under La Torre down

the Apure and Orinoco to Angostura, while he himself quickly made an end

of the few insurrectionists who stubbornly refused to retire from the

coast to the llanos. During one of Bolivar's absences, La Torre offered

Piar battle, and at San Felix, in April, 1817, the plainsmen annihilated

the Spanish infantry.

[Illustration: THE PASS OF ANGOSTURA, BOLIVAR CITY.]

Bolivar now went vigorously to work to secure complete command of the

river and soon had quite a fleet. His ascendancy over his officers

increased daily, and when Piar conspired against him he was strong

enough to have the negro hero arrested and shot as a traitor. Before the

end of 1817 the patriots were in command of the whole line of the rivers

except the fortress of San Fernando, near the junction of the Apure and

Orinoco, and Morillo could do nothing against them because the plains

were flooded. When the waters fell in early spring the royalists

achieved some successes, but Bolivar joined Paez, established a blockade

of San Fernando, and surprised Morillo himself near Calabozo. Against

Paez's advice he now insisted on making a campaign for the recovery of

Caracas, but was badly defeated by the marshal at La Puerta--a spot for

the third time the scene of a patriot downfall. Though Paez had captured

San Fernando his expedition into the mountain country was no more

successful than Bolivar's, and the two retreated to the river to raise

fresh troops. Morales followed the patriots to the Apure, but was in his

turn repulsed by Paez, giving Bolivar a breathing spell.

The Liberator's position was desperate; his infantry had been destroyed;

his cavalry reduced in numbers; his men were nearly without arms; his

ammunition exhausted. Ill-considered movements had turned the brilliant

situation in which he had found patriot affairs a year before into the

gloomiest sort of an outlook. On the other hand, a defensive campaign in

the llanos could be kept up indefinitely, and though Morillo had twelve

thousand men in the populous mountain provinces north of the plains, he

also was without money, arms, and supplies. As he reported to the

Peruvian viceroy: "Twelve pitched battles in which the best officers and

troops of the enemy have fallen, have not lowered their pride or

lessened the vigour of their attacks." With that indomitable energy

which more than compensated for his inferiority as a strategist, Bolivar

set to work to create a new army. Cavalry of the most admirable sort

could be recruited in sufficient numbers among the llaneros, but bitter

experience had convinced him that against Spanish regulars the native

infantry stood little chance. The cessation of the Napoleonic wars had

left thousands of European veterans without employment, and Bolivar

contracted for a few thousand Britishers and Irishmen, paying a bounty

of eighty dollars per man on enlistment and promising five hundred

dollars at the conclusion of the war. Some of these troops arrived

opportunely late in 1818, and, few as their numbers were, no soldiers in

South America could stand against them.

In October Bolivar issued a proclamation foreshadowing the union of

Venezuela and New Granada. In the midst of defeat, with all of both

countries except the thinly populated Orinoco plains in possession of

the Spaniards, he was confidently planning the creation of a great

empire. Morillo opened the campaign of 1819 by advancing with over six

thousand men against Paez on the upper Orinoco. The Creole's four

thousand were mostly cavalry, and he had learned better than to risk a

pitched battle. The Spanish columns were harassed beyond endurance by

his light horsemen, and after weeks of heartbreaking marches Morillo had

to retire, having accomplished nothing.

From Bolivar's erratic genius now emanated a great stroke of strategy.

West of the plains of the Apure and Casanare, tributaries of the upper

Orinoco, rises the giant range of the Cordillera and on its top lay the

fertile plateaux of Socorro, Tunja, and Bogota, the populous heart of

New Granada. For three years the Spaniards had been in secure possession

and all except three thousand troops had been drafted for service in

Venezuela and Peru. A small Spanish force came down from Tunja to attack

the patriot guerillas in Casanare, and was repulsed. Where the enemy

could go he could follow, reasoned Bolivar. Paez's cavalry had proved

itself amply able to hold the llanos, so no risk to Venezuela would be

incurred by temporarily withdrawing part of the infantry. With two

thousand natives and five hundred British the Liberator followed up the

Orinoco, Meta, and Casanare to the latter's sources at the foot of the

Paya pass, which leads directly into the fertile valley of Sagamoso, the

heart of Tunja province. This pass is high and very difficult, although

the distance to be traversed was only eighty miles. The road was a mere

track leading along precipices, crossing and recrossing mountain

torrents, and the rain fell incessantly as the patriots struggled up the

slippery path. When they reached the higher regions a hundred men

perished with the cold, and not a horse survived. The army arrived at

Sagamoso in a pitiable condition, but without seeing an enemy except an

outpost, which was easily dislodged.

Not knowing Bolivar's numbers, Barreiro, the Spanish commander, dared

not attack, and the Liberator thus obtained a much-needed opportunity to

rest his men and gather horses for his dismounted cavalry. As soon as he

got his army in hand he outmanoeuvred Barreiro and by a rapid march

captured the city of Tunja, where he found a good store of arms and

material. This movement also placed the patriot army between the

Spaniards and Bogota. Barreiro, seeing himself cut off from his base,

made a desperate dash for the capital, but Bolivar knew the enemy's

route and took up a position directly across his path on the right bank

of the small river Boyaca. Though the patriots were only slightly

superior in numbers, the Spaniards had to attack at a disadvantage, and

fled completely defeated after losing a hundred men. Practically their

whole force was dispersed or made prisoners. Small as were the numbers

engaged and easily as it was won, Boyaca was the most important battle

fought in northern Spanish America. Central New Granada, the wealthiest

and most populous part of the country, fell into Bolivar's hands without

a further blow. Its revenues relieved his financial difficulties and

among its sturdy inhabitants he recruited a new army. Morillo, now

isolated in Venezuela, must expect an attack from the llaneros,

reinforced by the Granadan mountaineers.

[Illustration: ROAD NEAR MACUTO.]

During the Liberator's absence from Venezuela he had been branded as a

traitor for abandoning his country without the authorisation of

congress, and Marino made commander-in-chief. But the news of Boyaca

fell like a thunderbolt among the disaffected, and his return in

December quelled them utterly. No opposition was made when he announced

that Venezuela and New Granada were united into a single republic, the

United States of Colombia, with himself as president and military

dictator. The year 1820 passed without any decisive campaign. Bolivar

occupied himself principally in recruiting and refitting his armies.

Twelve hundred Irish mercenaries arrived and were incorporated with an

army which was sent by sea to threaten the Spaniards in Cartagena, and

co-operate with the New Granadans on the lower Magdalena. A strong

division of Venezuelans was sent against Quito. Paez with the main army

of the Apure was, however, repulsed in an advance into Barinas. In spite

of this success Morillo could only lie inactive south of Caracas. His

forces were not numerous enough both to retake New Granada and to hold

northern Venezuela. But word came that Ferdinand was preparing an army

of twenty thousand men which would shortly sail from Cadiz for America,

and with this reinforcement the marshal believed he could destroy all

the patriot armies. The revolution which broke out in Spain in 1820

against Ferdinand's absolute government overturned his hopes. The

expedition never sailed, and the new liberal government showed itself

disposed to make terms with the revolted colonies. In November a six

months' armistice was arranged pending the despatch of peace

commissioners to the mother-country, and Morillo resigned in favour of

La Torre.

Bolivar's lieutenants respected the armistice only where convenient, and

shamelessly continued warlike operations, wresting the New Granadan

coast from the Spaniards, beginning the siege of Cartagena, and

encouraging a revolt in the province of Maracaibo. When La Torre

declared the armistice at an end late in April, 1821, Bolivar had

twenty thousand men in the field disposed in five armies. Montilla was

besieging Cartagena with three thousand; one Granadan army held the

valley of the Magdalena; another was operating against Ecuador; Bermudez

with two thousand men threatened Caracas from the east; and Bolivar and

Paez at the head of nine thousand men were ready to advance directly

from the Orinoco on Valencia and Caracas. To these forces La Torre could

only oppose nine thousand troops besides his garrisons. The moment the

armistice was formally terminated Bolivar started straight for La Torre.

The latter had made the fatal mistake of dividing his forces, and had

only about three thousand men drawn up on the wide plain of Carabobo, at

the northern foot of the passes which lead through the mountains from

the llanos to the Valencia plateau. Bolivar's six thousand captured the

passes, but he could not deploy his infantry on the flat ground in front

except at the risk of having them cut to pieces. On June 23, 1821, he

detached the British legion of one thousand men and fifteen hundred

cavalry under Paez around to the left to take the Spaniards in flank.

The charge of the llanero horse was driven back by the musket fire, but

the pursuing Spaniards were checked by the steady Englishmen, who stood

in their tracks and withstood the fire of the whole Spanish army. Their

ammunition was soon exhausted; no help came from Bolivar; all seemed to

be over with them; a second cavalry charge was as unsuccessful as the

first; and the surviving Britishers made up their minds to carry the

enemy's position or perish. Their commander had fallen; the colours

changed bearers seven times; still they kept their formation as steadily

as if on parade, and bayonet in hand rushed on the Spaniards, who

outnumbered them four to one. For a brief time the struggle was fierce

and the result doubtful, but cold steel in the hands of such a

desperate, forlorn hope was too much for the Spaniards. They began to

give ground and at last broke and fled. The llanero horse rode them

down, and only a remnant escaped to the shelter of Puerto Cabello.

Bolivar entered Caracas acclaimed--and this time justly--as the

liberator of his country.

Meanwhile the constituent congress of the new republic of Colombia had

met at Cucuta, a town near the limits of Venezuela and New Granada. It

was composed entirely of civilians and lawyers and proved to be

radically republican and opposed to Bolivar's anti-democratic theories.

Though a centralised government was adopted, congress rejected the life

presidency and hereditary senate, and abolished the military

dictatorship by providing that the commander-in-chief, when on active

service, should leave his political functions in the hands of the

vice-president. Bolivar made a pretence of declining the presidency, but

yielded to the importunities of congress and continued in command of the

army on the terms proposed, stipulating, however, that he be allowed to

organise as he saw fit the provinces he might conquer in the rest of

South America.

The Spaniards now held only Puerto Cabello and Cumana, but no progress

was made toward driving them out of these positions during the remainder

of 1821, nor until after Bolivar had, early in 1822, left for the south

to co-operate with Sucre in the conquest of Quito. In October Cumana

surrendered to Bermudez, but from Puerto Cabello Morales led an

expedition which reconquered Maracaibo and Coro. He was unable to hold

them and the defeat of his squadron on Lake Maracaibo in July, 1823,

forced him to surrender. On the 8th of November Puerto Cabello was taken

by assault and the long war for Venezuela's independence was over.

CHAPTER III

MODERN VENEZUELA

In 1822 Bolivar departed bent on the conquest of Ecuador, Peru, and

Bolivia, leaving a New Granadan vice-president as ruler of the great

Colombian republic, of which Venezuela was merely one division. The

massacres and sackings of ten bloody years had depopulated and

impoverished Venezuela, and the cost of maintaining the army and aiding

Bolivar in his foreign contests drained its exhausted resources. The

educated Creoles, especially powerful in the agricultural regions near

the coast, saw no place for themselves in Bolivar's centralising system.

They wanted to control the offices in their own localities, and did not

relish the establishment of a bureaucracy in which appointments and

promotions would be settled at Bogota. The predominant radical French

ideas added force to the sentiment of local independence. The theorists

were offended by Bolivar's manifest predilection toward aristocratic

forms and the favours which he granted the clergy. Most dangerous of

all, jealousy of the Liberator was rife among the generals.

Paez had been left at the head of military affairs in Venezuela and soon

after the capture of Puerto Cabello he became involved in quarrels with

the municipal authorities. The llanero general recked little of the

arguments of the lawyers, and carried things with a high hand. In 1826,

when the Bogota government sent an order for the organisation of

militia, he filled the measure to overflowing, and the municipality of

Caracas made a formal complaint to the central government. A decree for

his suspension was issued, but a riot in the streets terrorised the

cabildo and he was replaced in power as a sort of dictator. This

amounted to a destruction of the influence of the central Colombian

government in Venezuelan affairs. Many cities raised the standard of

rebellion and made themselves virtually independent. Bolivar hastened

back from Peru to reduce his old companion in arms to obedience. He

cajoled Paez into temporary co-operation, subdued most of the revolted

cities, and, seeing that his system could not be sustained without

coercion, assumed a dictatorship. But the news that Peru had revolted

destroyed his dream of a continent-wide dominion, and the demand for

local autonomy continued so strong throughout Venezuela and New Granada

that he was forced to call a national assembly to amend the Constitution

on the basis of a compromise. In spite of Bolivar's intrigues nearly

half the elected delegates staid away, and a majority of those who

presented themselves at Ocana, in March, 1828, though chosen under the

pressure of his influence, opposed his measures.

[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF PUERTO CABELLO IN 1870.]

The minority who favoured him withdrew at his suggestion, leaving the

congress without a quorum. It dissolved and the Liberator visited

Caracas, Cartagena, and Bogota, calling popular assemblies whose

deliberations were directed by bayonets and which obediently besought

him to save the country from anarchy in his own way. He issued a decree

virtually abolishing the Cucuta Constitution, but a conspiracy to

assassinate him was formed at Bogota in the fall of 1828, and he was

saved only by the devotion of his mistress, who stood in the way of the

midnight assassins, giving him time to jump from a window and escape. He

took a fearful vengeance on the conspirators and banished his worst

political enemies, but the incident failed to turn public sentiment in

his favour, and it was in vain that he exhibited himself as a martyr.

His old friend, General Cordoba, headed an unsuccessful insurrection in

the province of Antioquia; insurgents rose in Popayan and Rio Negro, and

towards the end of 1829, in Bolivar's native city, Caracas, an assembly

of one thousand generals, public functionaries, and prominent citizens

announced that Venezuela would shortly separate from Colombia and called

upon Paez to assume a dictatorship. The Liberator struggled vainly

against the rising tide of federalism; the country was at heart opposed

to Caesarism and union; he had been unable to convince the Creoles of the

advisability of providing a strong centralised government; and his only

supporters were personal ones. Bitterly protesting that he was falsely

charged with aspiring to mount a throne, and insisting that his real

ambition had been only to secure the perpetuity of the Colombian union

and establish an ordered government, he offered his resignation.

Congress, however, contained many of his friends and hesitated at coming

to an open breach. He was re-elected and made one last effort to enforce

the obedience of Venezuela. But the troops he raised in New Granada did

not dare to attack Paez, who with superior forces was waiting in an

impregnable position near the frontier. Sick and discouraged, the

Liberator renewed his resignation--this time in earnest--and retired to

the seacoast, where a few months later he died of a wasting sickness at

the early age of forty-seven. Though his courage, energy, and sublime

persistence and self-confidence had been the chief factors in securing

South American independence, those qualities proved utterly inadequate

to hold in check the unruly ambitions of the Creoles. He died clearly

foreseeing the decades of anarchy which lay before the northern

countries of the continent. "I blush to admit it," he said to congress

on the eve of his fall, "but independence is the only benefit we have

achieved, and that has been at the cost of all others." On his death-bed

he wrote: "Our Constitutions are books, our laws papers, our elections

combats, and life itself a torment. We shall arrive at such a state that

no foreign nation will condescend to conquer us, and we shall be

governed by petty tyrants."

The Venezuelan federalists had not waited for Bolivar's death to

complete the formal separation from Colombia. In May, 1830, a

constituent congress assembled which named Paez dictator and notified

Bogota that the country regarded itself as absolutely independent. But

Bolivar had partisans and the ruling clique enemies. The eastern

provinces refused to recognise Paez's authority and the whole country

was soon under arms. But Bolivar's death and the virtual recognition of

Venezuela's independence by New Granada brought about a treaty between

Paez and Monagas, the chief of the insurrection. The Creole aristocracy

came to a working understanding with the generals, and little cliques in

each city supported the central government as long as they were

recognised as dominant in their own localities. Naturally the ignored

outsiders were dissatisfied and plotted to overthrow these oligarchies.

In May, 1831, a revolution broke out in Caracas which menaced nothing

less than the extermination of the property-holding classes, but it was

suppressed and its leaders executed. On paper the form of government was

most liberal, congress abolishing the tobacco monopoly and many odious

taxes inherited from Spanish times, proclaiming religious freedom, and

adopting a Constitution very similar to that of the United States. But

in practice the conservative cliques had things their own way. Though

ambitious chiefs headed insurrections from time to time, they were all

bought off or defeated, and Paez continued president until 1835, leaving

the country in a condition of comparative order and prosperity.

Doctor Vargas, a civilian, succeeded him, but against him the generals

revolted, declaring Marino dictator. Carujo, the soul of the

insurrection, said, in the act of making the president and his ministers

prisoners, "Doctor Vargas, the world belongs to the strongest," and the

latter nobly replied, "No, the world belongs to the just," resumeing in

a word the conflict between force and law, between unbridled ambition

and the necessity for order, which has desolated Venezuela to this day

and which will last until the selfish elements learn that their own true

interests would best be served by promoting the prosperity of the whole

people--by relying upon their own industry rather than on chances to

despoil the producing classes. The government party appealed to Paez,

and the llanero general accepted the command. His prestige with the

common people and the army enabled him to gather forces with which he

overcame the revolted generals after eight months of bloody civil war.

Vargas was recalled from exile, but after a short time refused to

continue in the presidency, and his place was taken by the

vice-president, Doctor Narvarte. In 1839 Paez was again made president,

and was succeeded in 1842 by General Soublette, another of the heroes of

the war of independence. Until 1846 there was comparative tranquillity

in Venezuela. The population had decreased by a fifth during the Spanish

wars, being estimated at six hundred and fifty thousand in 1825, but

within the succeeding twenty years it grew to a million and a quarter.

Cacao, coffee, and sugar became important articles of export and made

the landed proprietors rich. With the cessation of warlike operations on

the plains, cattle rapidly multiplied, the first waggon roads were

built, and a bank was established.

In 1846 an anti-Creole insurrection broke out among the men of colour,

and Paez was again invested with dictatorial powers. When he had

completed his work he installed Monagas as president. Popular irritation

against the ruling conservative coterie was, however, profound and

Monagas quarrelled with congress, and sent his soldiers to break up its

meetings. Paez took up arms again and tried to expel his nominee, but

was defeated, and for the next nine years Monagas and his brother

alternated in the presidency. Though raised to power by the conservative

party they abandoned it and before 1850 had thrown themselves into the

arms of the liberals, or federalists. Extravagant powers were granted

to the states; the provincial coteries ran their localities to suit

themselves; the ties binding the different parts of the country together

were weakened; an elaborate and confused set of taxes, national,

provincial, and municipal, well-nigh choked commerce out of existence.

More and more liberty was conceded to the states and municipalities,

and, on paper, to the individual also. Slavery was abolished in 1854.

Revolutions broke out from time to time, and finally, in 1858, the

so-called conservatives overthrew the Monagas regime. But they

immediately divided into warring groups, and their new Constitution

proved too centralising to suit the Creole politicians. The liberals

hoisted the banner of federalism and several provinces rose in revolt.

Under the leadership of Pedro Gual the conservatives were, however,

victorious, but they again split to pieces, and Gual himself went over

to the liberals. A revolution in Caracas brought back old General Paez,

who assumed a dictatorship and tried to re-establish the power of the

central government. But it was impossible. Many disappointed

conservatives had turned federalist. No politician seemed willing to

submit to any administration unless he was a member of it. The struggle

had degenerated into a mere selfish contest for power, and the terms

liberal and conservative, federalist and unitarian, had ceased to have

any real relation to the opinions of the persons who bore these

appellations. General Falcon, with Guzman Blanco as lieutenant, led a

successful insurrection in Coro and made himself undisputed master of a

considerable portion of the country. The province of Maracaibo formally

declared itself separated from all connection with Caracas. For three

years civil war raged, when finally Paez gave up and Falcon assumed

direction of the exhausted country. On only one thing had the rapid

succession of dictators, provincial and national, been agreed,--the

increase of taxes. Import duties had been raised to such a point that

commerce could stand no more. But in spite of the enormous sums wrung

from merchant, producer, and consumer, the treasury was empty, for the

local chiefs openly took possession of the receipts of the custom-houses

in their respective districts, and diversions of public funds to private

use were the rule among all ranks of officials.

[Illustration: VENEZUELAN SOLDIER OF 1870.]

Falcon's success meant the definite triumph of unrestrained federalism.

The twenty states into which the seven old provinces had been divided in

the effort to provide enough offices to go around, became in law

sovereign; the presidential term was reduced to two years; absolute

liberty of the press was permitted, and the right of meeting for any

purpose guaranteed. Imprisonment for debt, the death penalty, and

religious instruction in the schools were all abolished. During the five

years that Falcon was the chief political figure affairs in Venezuela

grew worse and worse. State after state burst into revolution. Falcon

sometimes whipped the insurrectionists and sometimes bought them off,

but more often was unable to secure even a semblance of obedience

except by conceding everything. National penury reached the limit, the

states collected and pocketed the dues in most of the custom-houses,

officials were in regular partnership with smugglers, and finally the

feeble ghost of a federal administration simply flickered out of

existence because it could pay nobody.

A chief of the so-called unitarian party was declared president in 1868,

but Guzman Blanco, now the undisputed head of the federalists, retook

Caracas in 1870 and installed himself as dictator. He proved the

strongest and most tenacious man who had yet come to the front. With a

terrific insurrection raging against him, he concentrated all powers in

his own hands, suppressed the peculations of his agents, and

relentlessly dragged the half-breeds and negroes into his armies. He

finally put down all his enemies and in 1873 was installed as

constitutional president. Until 1889 he virtually reigned over

Venezuela. Though occasionally he might allow some one else to be

elected president, after a short interval he would find a pretext for

intervention and oust his nominee. Though the Constitution was left

substantially unamended, he interpreted it as he pleased. He organised a

regular machine through which he governed the "sovereign" states, taking

care that none but his creatures should become governors and that the

members returned to congress should be docile. To all intents and

purposes his will was the law of the land, for the legislative and

judicial departments were his instruments, and his executive decrees

covered nearly every imaginable subject. The minutest details of

commercial and social life were regulated, the clergy owed their

positions to the dictator, and even private property was not safe if

Blanco took a fancy to it. But in the main his tyranny was intelligent.

The country escaped the desolating outbreaks of local chiefs, with

forced loans wrung from property owners and merchants, the seizure of

cattle and coffee for "war purposes," and the lassoing of peons to serve

in the armed bands. Though the taxes imposed by Blanco were enormously

heavy, the marvellous productive forces of the soil could stand almost

any burden provided its amount were certain and its collection regular.

Though the dictator withdrew millions for his private use, depositing

them in Paris against the evil day of his expulsion, indiscriminate

exactions by subordinates were suppressed. Large sums were spent on

public works and buildings, and the beautification of the city of

Caracas, one of the handsomest and best-built cities in America, dates

from Guzman Blanco's time. Nearly five hundred miles of railroad were

constructed. The country was given and has retained the inestimable

blessing of a stable currency, and the coffee and cacao businesses

increased enormously. The number of cattle, which the civil wars prior

to 1870 had reduced to one million four hundred thousand, increased

sevenfold in fifteen years.

But Blanco's system was anomalous and rested on no secure foundation.

The commercial and property-holding classes abstained from politics, the

people became tired of his busybody tyranny, the peons were still an

inert and ignorant mass, harmless by themselves, but furnishing a

tempting recruiting ground for ambitious revolutionists. Nor had the

Creole politicians changed their nature. There were plenty of talented

adventurers whose mouths fairly watered seeing the immense fortune

Blanco was accumulating, and who only waited a favourable opportunity to

conquer a share in the spoils. The successful outbreak came in 1889,

headed by Rojas Paul. His success was a signal for other chiefs to

imitate his example. Resolute leaders hastily organised bands of peons,

and the old story of pronunciamentos, kidnappings of peaceful peasants,

attacks, surprises, forced loans, and all the demoralising and

disintegrating horrors of civil war were repeated. Paul was overthrown

by Andueza, and in 1892 Crespo got to the head of affairs and held power

long enough to accumulate a respectable fortune. Andrade succeeded

Crespo, but had to divide the spoils with his predecessor. The

disturbances did not become of a character to injure seriously

Venezuela's commerce and production until 1896, but there then began a

rapid decline in the value of her exports. The government's revenues

diminished a third and amounted to less than half the expenditures. The

debt grew to alarming figures and the guaranteed interest on foreign

capital employed in building railroads was allowed to fall into arrear.

In 1899, Castro, a man hitherto unknown in politics, started an

insurrection against Andrade in the western state of Los Andes. Marching

from one town to another his army grew like a rolling snowball by

forced enlistments, and though the sturdy hillmen did not know what they

were fighting for and would gladly have been at home, they showed all

the stolid bravery that seems inborn in their race. The government

troops could not stand against them, and Castro finally entered Caracas

in triumph. Though insurrection after insurrection has broken out

against him, the dauntless courage with which he leads his men has

enabled him to maintain himself. The successful South American

revolutionist must be willing to risk losing his own life, for so long

as he leads he will be followed, but his cowardice or death means a

rapid dissolution of his forces.

[Illustration: VENEZUELAN GUERILLAS.]

Though the solidity acquired by the Venezuelan commercial and financial

structure during the long years of Blanco's reign has prevented the

country from reverting into the anarchy which prevailed before 1873, and

though the spirit of federalism is not so rampant and the chieftains

aspire rather to a control of the whole country than to power confined

to their own localities, the recent civil wars have disorganised the

finances. Internal production has been hampered and external obligations

have been deferred--the latter with serious consequences. Anti-foreign

sentiment, already raised to a threatening height by the boundary

dispute with British Guiana--a long-standing matter which was happily

settled by arbitration after menacing a serious rupture between the

United States and Great Britain,--was further exacerbated by the

blockade of Venezuelan ports and the destruction of the Venezuelan navy

by the joint fleets of Germany, England, and Italy in 1902--measures to

which the European governments had been incited by the failure of

Venezuela to settle claims of their citizens. In the face of this

foreign war the civil conflicts were interrupted, and President Castro

empowered the American minister to negotiate for the submission of the

claims to arbitration. To the weight of the sentiment that international

money claims should not be enforced by warlike measures was added the

existence of a current of opinion in the United States which favoured

arbitration as in this instance certainly the best method of adjustment.

The temporary occupation of ports on American soil by European powers

might give the latter a military hold in the western continent which

would embarrass and complicate more important relations. The submission

was quickly and amicably arranged, the claims of the citizens of other

countries are to be ascertained at the same time, and the matter is now

before The Hague international tribunal.

[Illustration: ECUADOR COLOMBIA AND VENEZUELA]

By a resolution of congress General Castro is empowered to hold the

office of president for six years from 1902. Bitter and costly as have

been the experiences through which Venezuela has passed during the last

twelve years, the vast majority of the intelligent and property-holding

classes realise more clearly than outsiders possibly can that internal

stability will alone ensure the commercial development of the country;

that Venezuela united is far more likely to prosper than if separated

into always jealous and often warring provinces. The mass of the people

are industrious and peaceable. Real progress has been made since the

time of Bolivar in the almost impossible task of adjusting republican

forms and procedure to a people who by inheritance and tradition knew

nothing of the difficult art of self-government. It cannot fairly be

said that Venezuela as yet sees her way clear to a solution of the

problem, but her commercial statistics for the last thirty years prove

that her people have acquired industrial capacity, and the history of

other Spanish-American countries shows that the power for evil of the

turbulent military class may perish once for all with startling

suddenness when the right stage in national development is reached.

COLOMBIA

CHAPTER I

CONQUEST AND SETTLEMENT

When Alonso de Ojeda coasted along the Venezuelan shore in the spring of

1499 he stopped short just west of the Gulf of Maracaibo, near the

present boundary between Venezuela and Colombia. The following year

Rodrigo Bastida doubled the Goajira peninsula and pursued his voyage to

the west, catching sight of the giant snowclad mountains of Santa Marta

and of the low land which lies between them and the sea. Coming to the

mouth of a great river on the day sacred to Saint Magdalene, he named it

the Magdalena, and farther to the south-west found the fine harbour

where the city of Cartagena now stands. At the head of the Gulf of

Darien he came to another great river, the Atrato, and here his

explorations stopped.

More than a year later the great Columbus himself, on his fourth and

last voyage, sighted the Central American coast at Cape Gracias a Dios,

near the present boundary between Nicaragua and Honduras. Thence he

sailed south-east along a pestilential shore for eight hundred miles,

finally arriving near the point where Bastida had left off his

explorations. It is said that Bartholomew Columbus founded a settlement

on the Atlantic shore of the Isthmus, but it was soon destroyed by the

neighbouring Indians. The long stretch of coast was unfit for the abode

of Europeans, but the Indians had gold in abundance, and the Spaniards

were satisfied that the interior was full of mines. Hundreds of

fortunate adventurers had accumulated fortunes in the placers of Hayti,

and with a view of repeating their successes on the mainland, Alonso de

Ojeda solicited and obtained from the Spanish Crown the grant of the

territory from Goajira to the Atrato, while Diego de Nicuesa was given

the coast from the Atrato to Cape Gracias a Dios. In 1510 one of Ojeda's

lieutenants founded a town called Sebastian on the eastern shore of the

Gulf of Darien. The Indians soon destroyed it, but Antigua was

established across the gulf. This place was in fact on the Isthmus of

Panama, and not much more than one hundred miles from the Pacific Ocean,

of which the Spaniards then knew nothing. Among the military adventurers

who had followed Ojeda to Darien were Nunez de Balboa and Francisco

Pizarro. In 1511 the former went a short distance into the interior

looking for gold, and fell in with an Indian chief who told him that

only a few leagues south lay a great sea whose shores were inhabited by

numerous rich and civilised nations. Two years later he headed an

expedition from Antigua which resulted in the epoch-making discovery

which has immortalised his name. As the band of Spaniards approached

the line of hills from which the natives told them they could see the

mysterious ocean, Balboa hastened ahead of his men and was the first to

catch a glimpse, but in the headlong rush for the honour of first

touching its waters he was beaten by Alonso Martin and that lean and

tireless soldier who was afterwards to conquer Peru--Francisco Pizarro.

The Pacific side of the Isthmus proved to be more healthful and

habitable than the marshy shores of the Atlantic, and the settlers at

Antigua were soon driven by fevers and dysenteries, torrential rains and

sweltering heat, to the more healthful region of Panama. Nicuesa

likewise had been able to do nothing with his long stretch of Isthmian

and Central American coast. Nombre de Dios, not far from the present

site of Colon, was the only town which he succeeded in establishing, and

that maintained itself only as landing-place on the way to Panama. To

this day the Caribbean coast from the Atrato delta as far as Gracias a

Dios is practically uninhabited by white men; on the site of Antigua

there is left not a trace; the Indians in its neighbourhood are still

independent savages; and the north shore of the Isthmus has been a

hospital and a grave for successive generations of white men during four

hundred years. Only its position at the strategical gate to the great

South Sea has induced men to go to its noisome shores.

The Isthmian settlements were, as they remain, separated from the

continent of South America by the deep and broad valley of the Atrato,

where the rainfall is the greatest known, and whose dense tropical

forests are uninhabitable and practically impassable. No land

communication exists between Panama and Colombia proper. However, the

coast east of the Atrato delta is dryer, and at Santa Marta, beyond the

mouth of the Magdalena and at the foot of the great outlying mountain

mass of Colombia's north-eastern peninsula, was founded in 1525 the

first permanent settlement in Colombia proper. It was nothing more than

a kidnapping station, whence expeditions scoured the interior for slaves

to be sold to the Haytian gold mines. Meanwhile from Coro, established

two years later, on the eastern side of Maracaibo Gulf, murdering and

slaughtering expeditions were sent across the gulf, returning to

Venezuela after making a circuit among the mountains lying south of

Maracaibo Bay. Later these expeditions from Coro penetrated over these

mountains, reaching the llanos of the Apure and finally the plains of

Casanare lying east of Bogota, which now belong to Colombia.

[Illustration: OLDEST FORTRESS IN AMERICA, AT CARTAGENA.]

The exploring parties from Santa Marta and Coro, and information picked

up along the coast, gave the Spaniards a pretty fair idea of the

geography of the interior, and the existence of immense quantities of

gold and of civilised nations living on the high plateaux was verified

from many sources. The conquest of the fertile and salubrious interior

of Colombia was effected from three distinct centres,--Cartagena and

Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast, and Quito on the Ecuador table-land.

Serious colonisation began with Heredia's foundation of Cartagena in

1533. The new leader set vigorously to work to establish himself firmly

on the magnificent harbour and seek for gold. Cortes' and Pizarro's

marvellous successes had brought a multitude of adventurers to the new

world, all of whom were eager for a share in the spoils of the yet

independent Indian kingdoms. Heredia found the rocky hills which rise

not far south of Cartagena full of profitable gold washings, and the

Indians reported that only a short distance in the interior, where the

mountains rose higher, there was a region called Zenufana which produced

the precious metal far more abundantly. Their story was true, and

Zenufana was none other than the present state of Antioquia, which has

produced hundreds of millions of dollars of gold. No time was lost in

starting on the search. Heredia's first expedition penetrated to the

headwaters of the river Sinu, which flows into the Caribbean not far

south-west of Cartagena, and though successful in finding gold he was

unable to force his way over the high sierra of Abibe, the most northern

bulwark of the great Maritime Cordillera, which barred his way into

Antioquia and the valley of the Cauca. In 1535 the town of Tolu was

founded between the mouth of the Sinu and Cartagena, and the expeditions

skirted the northern end of the Andes until they reached the river Cauca

where it debouches into the Magdalena. In 1537 Spanish expeditions

succeeded in crossing the formidable Abibe Mountains, and penetrated

east into the coveted mining country. Up the Cauca they followed for two

hundred miles, passing the rapids which place an almost inexpugnable

barrier between the upper and lower river. Not far from the present city

of Cartago they found traces of white men, and learned that while they

themselves had been pushing south the indomitable companions of Pizarro

had extended their explorations and conquests more than a thousand miles

north from their landing-place on the Peruvian coast. The men from

Cartagena went on to Cali, where the conquerors of Popayan had their

headquarters, and there an expedition was fitted out which, under the

leadership of Jorge Robledo, returned down the Cauca and conquered

Antioquia after much bloody fighting with the Indians. It is said that

each of Heredia's men received a larger amount than the conquerors of

Mexico and Peru. Certain it is that the founding of Cartagena resulted

in putting the Spaniards in possession of the valley of the Cauca and

the wonderful gold mines of Antioquia as far south as the 5th degree.

Benalcazar, one of Pizarro's lieutenants, after conquering Quito in

1533, had proceeded north along the Andean plateau between the two

Cordilleras. A hundred miles from Quito he entered the high region of

Pasto, inhabited by vigorous, semi-civilised Indians much resembling

those of Ecuador. Near this point the Andes, heretofore massed in one

great chain, split into three parallel ranges. The western and central

chains are separated from each other by the valley of the Cauca and near

the Caribbean dip down to sea-level. The eastern range bears off a

little to the right, with the Magdalena valley between it and the

central mountains, and six hundred miles north turns north-east and

enters Venezuela just south of Maracaibo Bay. Benalcazar went straight

north from Pasto and entered the region where the Cauca gathers its

headwaters. This was Popayan, a lower country than Pasto, but still high

enough to be healthful, pleasant, and densely populated. In rapid

succession the tribes inhabiting the whole upper Cauca valley were

conquered, and Benalcazar's officers only stopped when they met their

countrymen coming up from Cartagena. The city of Cali was founded in

1536, Popayan in 1538, Pasto and Anserma in 1539, and Cartago in 1540.

This beautiful valley is one of the most isolated regions on the globe.

To the east and west the high walls of the Quindio, or central, and of

the western Cordillera shut it off from the Magdalena valley and from

the Pacific, and the rapids near Cartago make communication with the

Caribbean almost impossible.

Benalcazar himself had returned to Quito and it was not until 1538 that

he was able to undertake the conquest of the upper Magdalena and those

lovely plateaux and rich kingdoms which nestled on the broad top of the

eastern Cordillera. In the meantime he had been forestalled by an

expedition coming from the Caribbean. In 1536 Jimenez de Quesada sallied

forth from Santa Marta with eight hundred men and one hundred horses.

Avoiding the swampy delta of the Magdalena, he passed through the

Chimilas mountains which lie east of it, and reached the solid ground of

the foothills that approach the river banks some three hundred miles

above its mouth. Along these he made his way through incredible

difficulties and hardships, months being consumed in the journey, and

his men perishing by scores from fatigue, starvation, and continual

fights with the savage natives. When he reached the river Opon, he

determined to climb to the plateau, near the site of Velez, where he was

told that the mountain top was inhabited by a civilised race. After

fighting his way through the unconquerable savages of the Opon valley he

found himself in the centre of a series of lovely table-lands, many of

them the beds of ancient mountain lakes whose alluvial bottoms were

inexhaustibly fertile, where the climate was perfect and all the

products of the temperate zone grew luxuriantly. The plateaux,

interrupted by valleys and ridges, stretched from Pamplona to beyond

Bogota--a distance of more than two hundred miles. This region was then

and remains to this day the populous heart of Colombia, the principal

seat of power, wealth, and national civilisation. However, it is so

isolated that it has never constituted a nucleus around which the widely

separated provinces of Colombia could unite into a well organised

nation. To reach Tolima, Bogota's nearest neighbour in the upper

Magdalena valley, it is necessary to descend thousands of feet of steep

mountainside, along which the sure-footed mule can hardly climb. To

reach Cauca, not only must the Magdalena valley be crossed but the

enormously high Quindio range must be climbed, and before getting to

the Pacific, still another mountain chain intervenes, while the populous

gold regions of Antioquia can only be reached by following down the

Magdalena and up the Cauca. Weeks of the most difficult journeying are

required to get to the seacoast or any of the other states, and Panama

might as well be on the other side of the globe so far as practical

communication goes.

[Illustration: TRAVELLERS DESCENDING A MOUNTAIN ROAD]

Quesada had lost three-fourths of his men in reaching the promised land,

but once there he encountered fewer difficulties than any of the other

great Spanish conquerors. The numerous nation of the Chibchas inhabited

the southern plateaux, who acknowledged allegiance to the zipa of

Meuqueta. But their so-called empire possessed no military force or

cohesion, although they had carried agriculture to a high degree of

perfection. They manufactured cotton cloths, mined gold and emeralds,

worked artistic ornaments, had a circulating medium and a calendar,

lived in houses, built splendid temples, and had tools hard enough to

carve stones into elaborate sculptures. Their government was absolute;

crimes were severely and relentlessly punished; the caste of priests

wielded great power. Altogether they appear to have reached a stage of

material civilisation not much inferior to the aztecs of Mexico, the

caras of Ecuador, or the incas of Peru, but in efficiency of

governmental and military organisation they fell far below those great

peoples. Spanish chroniclers have amused themselves with recording

traditions of great wars in which the Chibchas had assembled armies of

hundreds of thousands not long before the conquest, but the fact

remains that less than two hundred Spaniards overcame them and reduced

them to unquestioning obedience within a few months and without serious

loss. Indeed, Quesada's successors had more difficulty with the smaller

nations who inhabited the northern plateaux of Tunja, Socorro, and

Tundama, and the most serious resistance was made by the semi-savage

tribes of the upper Magdalena, who fought nearly as desperately as the

Indians of Antioquia and the Caribbean coast.

Quesada chose the site of the ancient Chibcha capital for his city and

there Bogota was founded on the 7th of August, 1538. It lies on the

eastern border of a magnificent level plain, the bed of the largest of

the prehistoric lakes, thirty miles broad and sixty long, and nearly

nine thousand feet above sea-level. One hundred and fifty thousand

people live on that plain to-day, and the population in Chibcha times

was probably even larger. The same year Benalcazar reached the

neighbourhood of Bogota, having come down the valley of the Magdalena

from Quito and Pasto, and at the very same moment arrived an expedition

from Coro in Venezuela, which had crossed the mountains south of

Maracaibo and followed south along the llanos lying at the eastern base

of the Colombian Andes, thence climbing the sierra to Bogota. Remarkable

as it may seem, these three bands of indomitable Spaniards, starting

from widely separated points on the coast, met each other in the remote

interior of the continent, brought to the same place by the fame of the

fertility and riches of the Chibcha kingdom. The Venezuelans under

Federmann, and the Ecuadoreans under Benalcazar, accepted the bribe

which Quesada offered them not to interfere with his conquest, and the

three chiefs, laden with gold, returned to Spain in the same ship.

Quesada left his brother in nominal command of the colony, but each of

the conquerors was a law unto himself. When the governor of Santa Marta

came up to Bogota they refused to recognise his authority. Tunja and

Velez were founded in 1539 on the plateaux north of the capital, and a

year or two later Quesada's brother wasted a great part of his forces in

a fruitless expedition to the mountains of Pasto in search of the

Eldorado. Meanwhile, in 1539, the Portuguese Geronimo Mello had

succeeded in entering the mouth of the Magdalena, making his way for a

considerable distance upstream. The great river proved to be perfectly

navigable from the sea to a point nearly as far south as Bogota, and the

Spaniards immediately utilised it as a route to Santa Marta and

Cartagena far preferable to the track through swamps and foothills which

Quesada had followed. Each of the plateau provinces lying on the

mountains which follow its eastern bank had its own paths down the

slopes to the river, and a practicable though tedious and expensive

communication with the Caribbean was developed.

[Illustration: NATIVE BOATS, MAGDALENA RIVER.]

In 1542 Lugo, an adventurer who had successfully intrigued against

Quesada, arrived with a commission as adelantado and considerable

reinforcements. New cities were founded among the gold mines of the

upper Magdalena at Tocaima, Ibague, and Neiva, as well as at Pamplona at

the northern end of the plateaux. The tribes of Bogota, Tunja, Velez,

Socorro, and Pamplona submitted without appreciable resistance, and

their fertile fields were divided into great estates among the

Spaniards. But the more savage tribes in the gold-bearing valleys of the

Upper Magdalena and Cauca and in Antioquia struggled hard to escape

impressment into the mines, and war almost exterminated them. The same

thing happened on the plains of the Caribbean coast, although in that

region some tribes maintained their independence. To work the mines and

plantations negro slaves had to be imported, with the result that black

blood predominates in the lower regions of Colombia, while the

descendants of the aborigines are in a majority on the eastern plateaux.

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