Your last letter which I received only at Bologna was a most pleasing
renewal of a correspondence, which (somehow or another) had been
a little interrupted, but which I shall always consider as both
usefull and agreable to me, since I am sure of finding in all your
letters the tenderness of a mother, the sincerity of a friend and the
entertainement of a most knowing correspondent. I am indeed but too
unworthy of such a commerce.
Of all the towns in Italy, I am the least satisfied with Venice;
objects which are only singular without being pleasing produce a
momentary surprize which soon gives way to satiety and disgust.
Old and in general ill built houses, ruined pictures, and stinking
ditches dignified with the pompous denomination of canals, a fine
bridge spoilt by two Rows of houses upon it, and a large square
decorated with the worst Architecture I ever yet saw, and wonderfull
only in a place where there is more land than water: such are the
colours I should employ in my portrait of Venice; a portrait
certainly true in general, tho' perhaps you should attribute the
very great darkness of the shades to my being out of humour with the
place. Here are no English, and all communication with the natives of
the place is strictly forbid. Our chief ressource is our Resident Mr.
Murray,[87] an honest plain man, and a very good companion, who gives
us most excellent dinners every other day.
I found here that my prudence in taking up a larger sum of money
at Rome than I immediately wanted, was very far from being a vain
precaution. I found this Banker a sour, suspicious old fellow, who
began by vexing me very much in talking of my letters having been
protested in presence of Guise, to whom I had never mentioned it.
Indeed the Brute did it in so very abrupt a way that it seemed his
chief design was to mortify me. Upon my mentioning that I believed
the Lausanne banker had restored my credit, he began to make a number
of difficulties, which I at last cut short by telling him that I
neither wanted his money nor his company. It was very lucky I had it
in my power to talk in that manner.
The part of your letter, Dear Madam, which related to my being at
home in May made me a little uneasy. My father hinted something
of that kind in a former letter. I am sorry that your's is wrote
before the reception of my answer, as I should then know whether my
father still expected my return so soon. It would be most highly
inconvenient to me. I could indeed, going directly from hence, arrive
in England by the end, and the end only, of May. But in order to do
it, I must go the very straitest road, never stop, and give up a
number of curious things which will scarce ever be within my reach
again! Cannot the meeting be put off till September? Cannot Sir
Thomas[88] protract his stay one month longer? Will my missing one
more meeting hurt the Battalion very sensibly? I am forced to ask
all these questions without being able to wait for their answers. I
must here at once determine for myself and I am afraid of determining
wrong. I could have wished, my father would have explained himself
more clearly, whether he thought my return in May, a thing absolutely
necessary and right, and am almost inclined to imagine that he would
have done so, if he had looked upon it in that light. I have still
some hopes of receiving his answer to my letter from Naples, which I
should immediately obey.
[Sidenote: PLANS FOR HIS RETURN.]
You may see, Dear Madam, in what a state of perplexity I am, and that
I am not really yet determined what to say or what to do. However the
prospect of my tour thro' the South of France (which will only delay
my return about a month or six weeks) is so pleasing, and the means
of obviating any inconveniences in the Battalion appear so easy, that
I cannot help taking a resolution which I hope will not displease
my father. I leave this place in a day or two and shall be at Turin
about the beginning of May; from thence I shall proceed to Lyons, go
down the Rhone to Avignon and wheel round by Provence and Languedoc
to Bordeaux, where I shall easily find a ship bound for London. I
have made this alteration, as it enlarges my tour, without making any
difference either in time or expence. I shall only draw for another
hundred, and my father may depend upon my being at Beriton by the
end of June or the beginning of July; barring accidents of wind and
weather. With what pleasure, Dear Madam, shall we meet. I assure you
I have not forgot the Wax Candles. Venice is the place for them, but,
as far as I can learn, tho' whiter they do not burn so well as ours.
I cannot make out whether in point of price it is worth sending them.
I am, Dear Madam,
Most truly yours,
E. G.
[87] John Murray, Resident at Venice, was appointed in November,
1765, ambassador at Constantinople. He died at Venice in August,
1775.
[88] Sir T. Worsley.
45.
_To his Father._
Lyons, May the 29th, 1765.