I am very sorry for the reason (it is really no excuse) which I have
had for my late dilatoriness in writing. I have waited with great
impatience for an answer to the letters I had wrote my father, have
always hoped and imagined that I could scarce fail of receiving
it the very next post, and living in that daily expectation have
suffered several posts to elapse without writing myself. Indeed I
begin to fear that some letters must have miscarried. I hope however
to hear from my father very soon, since if I should return to Rome
without having had any orders from him as to the time and manner of
my returning home, I should find myself very much embarassed how to
act.
We arrived here only last night, so that as yet I have seen nothing;
not even the glorious prospect of the bay of Naples. A thick foggy
cloudy day (for such weather have we sometimes even in this happy
climate) hangs over it, and veils all its beauties. The journey from
Rome has satisfied at least one species of a disagreable curiosity,
that of being acquainted with the very worst roads in the universe.
You are sometimes sunk in sloughs and sometimes racked and battered
on the broken remains of the old Appian way, and when after a tedious
day you at last arrive at the long desired inn, you soon wish for
the moment of setting out again. Governor Ellis[85] who is here, a
man famous for attempting the North West passage, and consequently
acquainted with every species of hardship, declares that he had
rather circumnavigate the Globe, than go from Rome to Naples. This
single circumstance may convince you, Dear Madam, how just are the
common but melancholy observations, of the wretched state of this
fine country and of the misery of its idle and oppressed inhabitants.
They are indeed painted in too lively colours to escape the notice
of the most inatentive traveller, and so shocking as to excite the
pity of the least feeling one. I will not repeat here, Dear Madam, my
old and lazy maxim of saying little because I have a great deal to
say, and of reserving every thing for your dressing Room. I assure
you without flattery, that I am very impatient to see it. I cannot
say whether you will find me improved in any thing else, but at least
I think I am become a better Englishman, and that, without adopting
the honest prejudices of a Hampshire farmer, I am reconciled to my
own country, that I see many of its advantages better than I did, and
that a more enlarged view has corrected many errors of my premature
and partial observation.
We are at present in the midst of a most brilliant carnaval, and
shall scarce be able to breath between balls, operas, Assemblies and
dinners. I have not yet seen Mr. Hamilton our Minister,[86] but he is
extremely liked by the English here, of whom most are our Roman or
Florentine acquaintance. Our only Peer is Lord Berkely, with whom we
are just going to dine. I imagine we shall be presented to the boy
King next Sunday. It must be a most ridiculous farce of Majesty.
Will you be so good as to acquaint my father that I drew for £100 at
twenty days' sight the morning I left Rome, and that not having time
to write by that post I acquainted Mr. Darrel with it by a letter of
four lines.
How superfluous is it, Dear Madam, to repeat my protestations of duty
and affection to my father, of tenderness to yourself, or of real
friendship, and my best wishes for your brothers.