LXIII.

I take train for Venice—Every one on first seeing it says he

shall stay a long time; no one stays more than a fortnight—The

Piazza San Marco; all peace and quiet; no sound of voices, or

wheels, or hoofs—One’s coffee turns to nectar as one feeds

on the Duomo—The palace of the Doges more majestic than

Man—How to imagine what Venice is—The _calle_ and dainty

marble bridges—The little canals, where some keep their own

gondola as we do our own carriage—One takes a gondola at the

Piazzetta—One sweeps by lovely palaces on a Grand Canal—One

gets out at the Rialto—This fine old palace is the General Post

Office, that is the Fondaco dei Turchi—Then the Palazzi Pesaro,

La Ça Doro, Guistiniani, and Foscari—The Arsenal—The Gallery

of Art—Churches angular—Churches domed—The Via Garibaldi—The

squares of St. Maurizio and St. Stephano—Venice very cold

in March—San Marco the most perfect square on earth—The two

Othello families—No fear of being run over by cabs—The opera

at Venice—The island of Lido—Venice compared to a picture

book—Across the Brenner by way of Verona—Munich—Stassfurt

again—Excursions to the Harz—The Brocken, the Affenthaler

valley—The castle of Falconstein—Proposal for a monument

to Goethe—Return to Italy over the Brenner—My travelling

companions—Florence, the Perseus and the Loggia dei Lanzi—The

inspired evangelists of art—I saw my estimable friends the

Villaris again—On my way to Rome 255

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