LX.

The Riviera Levante—Nervi—Its charm of scenery and colour,

which commissions me to write “The Painter”—The Palazzo

Rosso—The coast of Genoa spoilt by its fortifications—The

vineyards and villas—The Villa Paganini—A feast of grapes—A

knife-fight—The Via Nuova—The statue of Columbus—We proceed

to Spezia—Lerici, Shelley’s last home but one—The Temple of

Venus—The marble hills of Carrara—Florence once more—Old

friends replaced by new—Madame Mazzini, now the wife of Signor

Villari, a senator and Minister of Education—My longings to see

Florence again—The Tuscans—Their bright intellects and fine

faces—The kindness and attentions of the Italians to strangers

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