CHAPTER V.

CLIMATE OF RED RIVER. THERMOMETER. PIGEWIS'S NEPHEW. WOLVES. REMARKS

OF GENERAL WASHINGTON. INDIAN WOMAN SHOT BY HER SON. SUFFERINGS OF

INDIANS. THEIR NOTIONS OF THE DELUGE. NO VISIBLE OBJECT OF ADORATION.

ACKNOWLEDGE A FUTURE LIFE. LEFT THE COLONY FOR BAS LA RIVIRÈE. LOST

ON WINIPEG LAKE. RECOVER THE TRACK, AND MEET AN INTOXICATED INDIAN.

APPARENT FACILITIES FOR ESTABLISHING SCHOOLS WEST OF ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

RUSSIANS AFFORDING RELIGIOUS INSTRUCTION ON THE NORTH WEST COAST OF

NORTH AMERICA. RUMOURS OF WAR AMONG THE SURROUNDING TRIBES WITH THE

SIOUX INDIANS.

JANUARY 1, 1823.--Once more I have to record the goodness of God in

preserving my life, and granting me the invaluable blessing of health

throughout the past year.

"God of my life! to thee belong

The thankful heart, the grateful song."

May my days be spent with renewed ardour and watchfulness in my

Christian profession; never yielding to supineness and discouragements

in my Ministerial labours, and toils in the wilderness. Of all men, the

Missionary most needs strong faith, with a simple reliance upon the

providence and promises of God in the trials that await him. His path

is indeed an arduous one. Many unexpected circumstances will oppose his

conscientious endeavours to fulfil his calling; and difficulties will

surround him in every shape, so as to put his patience, his hopes of

usefulness and steady perseverance severely to the test. He will often

exclaim in the deep conviction of his mind, who is sufficient for the

great undertaking?--Experience in the Missionary field has convinced

me, that there are indeed but _few among a thousand_ qualified for the

difficult and exalted work. If that eminent Missionary, St. Paul,

abounding in zeal, and in all the graces of the Spirit, thought it

needful to solicit the prayers of the Churches that "the word of the

Lord might run, and have free course," how earnest ought our entreaties

to be of all friends of missions to "pray for us," who, _if we feel

aright_, must feel our own insignificance, in our labours among the

heathen, and in our services to the Christian church, when compared

with the labours of the Apostles, or with those of a Swartz, a Brainerd,

or a Martyn.

The climate of Red River is found to be remarkably healthy, and the

state of the weather may be pretty accurately ascertained from the

following table for the last two years. We know of no epidemic, nor is

a cough scarcely ever heard amongst us. The only cry of affliction, in

breathing a sharp pure air, that creates a keen appetite, has been,

'_Je n'ai rien pour manger_,' and death has rarely taken place amongst

the inhabitants, except by accident and extreme old age. It is far

otherwise, however with the natives of the country, who from the

hardships and incessant toil they undergo in seeking provisions, look

old at forty, and the women at a much earlier age: while numbers die,

at an early stage of their suffering existence, of pulmonary

consumptions. These are so common, that they may be considered as the

unavoidable consequence of privations and immoderate fatigue, which

they endure in hunting and in war; and of being continually exposed to

the inclemency of the seasons.

CLIMATE OF RED RIVER

THERMOMETER.

+---------+-----+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+

| | | | | | | | | Aver-| Aver-|

| Month | | A.M. | A.M. | M. | M. | P.M. | P.M. | age | age |

| and | |Below |Above |Below |Above |Below |Above |Below |Above |

| Year |Date | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° |

+---------+-----+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+

|1821. | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | |

|January | 23 | 24 | .. | 16 | .. | 26 | .. | 22 | .. |

|February | 2 | 30 | .. | 25 | .. | 28 | .. | 28 | .. |

|March | 17 | 5 | .. | .. | 13 | 5 | .. | .. | 1 |

|April | 9 | .. | 10 | .. | 18 | .. | 17 | .. | 15 |

| | | | | | | | | | |

|May | 8 | .. | 50 | .. | 77 | .. | 77 | .. | 68 |

|June | 3 | .. | 72 | .. | 84 | .. | 88 | .. | 81 |

|July | 28 | .. | 76 | .. | 91 | .. | 90 | .. | 85 |

|August | 3 | .. | 70 | .. | 84 | .. | 88 | .. | 84 |

|September| 4 | .. | 58 | .. | 68 | .. | 70 | .. | 65 |

|October | 25 | .. | 45 | .. | 62 | .. | 65 | .. | 27 |

| | | | | | | | | | |

|November | 26 | 5 | .. | 16 | .. | 16 | .. | 12 | .. |

|December | 17 | 38 | .. | 15 | .. | 16 | .. | 23 | .. |

|---------+-----+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------|

|1822. | | | | | | | | | |

| | | | | | | | | | |

|January | 28 | 34 | .. | 25 | .. | 25 | .. | 28 | .. |

|February | 3 | 32 | .. | 19 | .. | 23 | .. | 25 | .. |

|March | 13 | .. | 7 | .. | 25 | .. | 10 | .. | 14 |

|April | 8 | .. | 5 | .. | 18 | .. | 21 | .. | 15 |

| | | | | | | | | | |

|May | 28 | .. | 65 | .. | 77 | .. | 78 | .. | 73 |

|June | 9 | .. | 68 | .. | 76 | .. | 76 | .. | 73 |

|July | 21 | .. | 75 | .. | 87 | .. | 81 | .. | 81 |

|August | 8 | .. | 74 | .. | 83 | .. | 84 | .. | 80 |

|September| 13 | .. | 59 | .. | 79 | .. | 78 | .. | 72 |

|October | 4 | .. | 54 | .. | 72 | .. | 71 | .. | 66 |

| | | | | | | | | | |

|November | 29 | 24 | .. | 2 | .. | 15 | .. | 14 | .. |

|December | 14 | 49 | .. | 25 | .. | 28 | .. | 34 | .. |

+---------+-----+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+------+

I have selected the day in each month of the year, when the thermometer

was at the lowest and highest degree of Zero; which will give a general

idea of the change of the state of the air. Though I have been informed

of the thermometer having been several degrees higher and lower at the

Colony, than here stated, the winter is nearly the same, as to the time

it sets in and breaks up, as that of Montreal; but the frost is rather

more intense, with less snow, and a clearer air. During the winter

months, a north-westerly wind, which is synonymous in this quarter of

the globe, with excessive cold, generally prevails; and even in sultry

weather, the moment that the wind veers from the south to that quarter,

its chilling influence is immediately felt in the sudden transition

from heat to cold. In summer, a southerly wind blows commonly with

considerable heat, and often in heavy gales, is accompanied with

violent torrents of rain, and much thunder.

The 4th.--The Indians around us generally divide into small parties for

the better support of their families during the winter months; and in

their rambling existence in search of animals for provisions. Pigewis

and a few others, occupying two lodges, called on me to-day, saying

that they were starving. The woods which they generally hunted were

burnt to a great extent during the last autumn, and they had only

killed a bear, and a few martins, with occasionally a rabbit, as a

subsistence for the last two months. This was their report, though they

often deceive in their lounging habits of begging at your residence. I

assisted them with a little Indian rice and some potatoes, on their

promise to strike their tents, and proceed to some other hunting

grounds on the following day. When they visit under these destitute

circumstances, they are often exceedingly troublesome, acknowledging no

right of restraint in being shut out from your presence; they enter

your dwelling without ceremony, and covet almost every thing that they

see. With a view, therefore, to keep them from my room in the evening,

I sent some tea and sugar with a little flour, for the purpose of

taking my tea with them in one of their tents. I was accompanied by one

of the Indian boys from the school as an interpreter, who now acted

well in that capacity, from the great progress he had made in speaking

English, and found them all encircling a small fire, by the side of

which they had placed a buffaloe robe for me to sit down upon. The pipe

was immediately lighted by an Indian whom we generally call 'Pigewis's

Aid-de-Camp;' and having pointed the stem to the heavens and then to

the earth, he gave the first whiff to the Master of Life, and

afterwards handed it to me. Pigewis then delivered what I understood to

be an address to the Great Spirit, and the party seated around him used

an expression, apparently of assent, in the middle and conclusion of

his speech. Though addressing an unknown God, what a reflection does

his conduct, in returning thanks for his short and precarious supplies,

to the Master of Life, cast upon multitudes who profess Christianity

and the knowledge of the true God, and yet daily partake of the

bounties of his providence, without any expression of gratitude, or

whose only return, is to live in the known violation of his laws, and

to blaspheme his holy name, in the midst of his goodness towards them!

Pigewis breakfasted with me on the following morning; and his general

remarks in conversation gave me, as they had done before, a favourable

opinion of his penetration and mental ability. The active efforts of

his mind, however, are confined principally to those objects which

immediately affect his present wants or enjoyments. Savages talk of the

animals that they have killed, and boast of the scalps that they have

taken in their war excursions; but they form no arrangement, nor enter

into calculation for futurity. They have no settled place of abode, or

property, or acquired wants and appetites, like those which rouse men

to activity in civilized life, and stimulate them to persevering

industry, while they keep the mind in perpetual exercise and ingenious

invention. Their simple wants are few, and when satisfied they waste

their time in listless indolence; and are often seen lying on the

ground for whole days together, without raising their heads from under

the blanket, or uttering a single word. The cravings of hunger rouse

them; and the scarcity of animals that now prevails in many parts of

the country, is a favourable circumstance towards leading them to the

cultivation of the soil; which would expand their minds, and prove of

vast advantage, among other means, in aiding their comprehension of

Christianity. It must, not be expected, however, that the Indians will

easily forsake a mode of life that is so congenial to man, in his

natural love of ease and indolence and licentious freedom. Necessity,

in a measure, must compel them to do this; _but the children may be

educated, and trained to industry upon the soil_, in the hope that they

may be recovered from their savage habits and customs, to see and enjoy

the blessings of civilization and Christianity. This object is highly

important, and no means should be spared in attempting its accomplishment,

where practicable. Where is our humanity and Christian sympathy, and

how do we fulfil the obligations which Christianity has enforced, if we

do not seek to raise these wandering heathen, who, with us, are immortal

in their destiny, from a mere animal existence to the partaking of the

privileges and hopes of the Christian religion?

Before Pigewis left me, his sister arrived, who was then living with a

very lazy bad Indian, and asked me to take her eldest boy, whose father

was dead, into the school. Though much above the usual age of admission

upon the establishment, I consented to receive him; and they both took

an affectionate leave of him, remarking that they were sure I should

keep him well. The whole party then set off towards some fresh hunting

grounds, and it was my hope and expectation that I should see nothing

more of them till the spring. The boy was comfortably clothed, and he

appeared to be well satisfied with the rest at the school, and had

begun to learn the English alphabet, when, to my surprise, I found the

mother, with the Indian, in my room, in about a week after they had

left the Settlement with Pigewis, saying that they had parted from him

in consequence of their not being able to obtain any provision; and

that "they thought it long" since they had seen the boy. He was

permitted to go from the school-house to their tent, which they had

pitched near me in the woods, almost daily without restraint, till at

length he refused to return. I repeated my request for him without

effect; and having my suspicion excited, that they would take him away

for the sake of the clothing and blankets which I had given him, I

determined upon having them again, as an example to deter others from

practising the like imposition. The parties were angry at my

determination, and looking upon the medicine bag that was suspended on

the willows near the tent, and which is carried by most of the Indians,

as a sacred depository for a few pounded roots, some choice bits of

earth, or a variety of articles which they only know how to appreciate

with superstitious regard, they told me that "they had bad medicine for

those who displeased them." I insisted, however, on the return of the

articles I had given to the boy, and obtained them; at the same time

promising that if he would go back to the school-house, he should have

his clothes again; but added, that "it would never be allowed for

Indians to bring their children to the school, which was established to

teach them what was for their happiness, merely for the purpose of

getting them clothed and provided with blankets, and then to entice

them to leave it."

JAN. 20.--The severity of the winter has driven a number of wolves to

hover about the Settlement in search of provisions; they are perfectly

harmless however, as they are met singly, and skulk away like a dog

conscious of having committed a theft. But in packs, they kill the

horses, and are formidable to encounter. In the pursuit of buffaloes

and the deer on the plains, they are known to form a crescent, and to

hurry their prey over precipices, or upon the steep muddy banks of a

river, where they devour them. No instance has occurred of their having

seized any of the children of the settlers, though they sometimes kill

and eat the carcases of the dogs close to their houses.

FEBRUARY 3.--It appears that I have given great offence to one of the

remaining Swiss emigrants, for refusing to baptize, at his immediate

request, the child of his daughter, born of fornication, and cast away

by her, as living in adultery. I deeply lamented the circumstance, but

felt the obligation to defer the administration of the sacrament, from

the conviction that the profligacy of the case called for an example

which might deter others among the Swiss from acting in the like

manner; and at the same time be a public expression of disapprobation,

on my part, of such unblushing depravity, in the eyes of a numerous

young people growing up at the Colony. Unless chastity be considered as

a virtue, what hope can be entertained of forming any organized

society? and if the Colonists fearlessly commit crimes, because they

have stepped over a certain line of latitude; and live in a wild

profligacy, without the curb of civil restraint, the Settlement can

hold out but faint hopes of answering in any way the expectations of

its patrons. Till morality and religion form its basis, disappointment

must follow. Nor can I imagine that the system taught by the Canadian

Catholic priests will avail any thing materially in benefitting the

morals of the people; they are bigotted to opinions which are

calculated to fetter the human mind, to cramp human exertion, and to

keep their dependants in perpetual leading-strings. Their doctrine is--

"Extra Ecclesiam Romanam, salus non esse potest."[7]

[7] There is no salvation beyond the pale of the Roman Church.

They appear to me to teach Christianity only as a dry system of

ecclesiastical statutes, without a shadow of spirituality. While they

multiply holidays, to the interruption of human industry, as generally

complained of by those who employ Canadians, they lightly regard the

Sabbath; and sanction the practice of spending the evenings of this

sacred day at cards, or in the dance. In their tinkling service of

worshipping the elevated host as the very God himself, they fall down

also in adoration to the Virgin Mary, addressing her, as--

"Reine des Cieux!

Intercedez pour nous,

Mère de Dieu!"

and proudly arrogate to the Church of Rome, the absolute interpretation

of Scripture; forbidding the people to examine whether she does it

rightly or not. I thank God that I am a Protestant against such

idolatry and ecclesiastical tyranny!

The able and enlightened remarks of that renowned general and eminent

statesman, Washington, in his farewell address to the people of the

United States, relative to the well-being of a nation, are equally

applicable to the existence and prosperity of a Colony: "Of all the

dispositions and habits which lead to political prosperity (he

observed), religion and morality are indispensable supports. In vain

would that man claim the tribute of patriotism, who should labour to

subvert these great pillars of human happiness, these firmest props of

men and citizens. The mere politician, equally with the pious man,

ought to respect and cherish them. A volume would not trace all their

connexions with private and public felicity. Let it be simply asked,

Where is the security for property, for reputation, for life, if the

sense of religious obligation desert the oaths which are the

instruments of investigation in the courts of justice? And let us with

caution indulge the supposition, that morality can be maintained

without religion. Whatever be conceded to the influence of refined

education, or minds of a peculiar structure; reason and experience

forbid us to expect that national morality can prevail in exclusion of

religious principle."

A daughter has driven her aged Indian father, lashed, in his buffaloe

robe, on a sledge, to the Colony. He appeared to be in a very weak and

dying state, and has suffered much from the want of provisions. I was

much pleased with this instance of filial affection and care. Sometimes

the aged and infirm are abandoned or destroyed; and however shocking it

may be to those sentiments of tenderness and affection, which in

civilized life we regard as inherent in our common nature, it is

practised by savages in their hardships and extreme difficulty of

procuring subsistence for the parties who suffer, without being

considered as an act of cruelty, but as a deed of mercy. This shocking

custom, however, is seldom heard of among the Indians of this

neighbourhood; but is said to prevail with the Chipewyan or Northern

Indians, who are no sooner burdened with their relations, broken with

years and infirmities, and incapable of following the camp, than they

leave them to their fate. Instead of repining they are reconciled to

this dreadful termination of their existence, from the known custom of

their nation, and being conscious that they can no longer endure the

various distresses and fatigue of savage life, or assist in hunting for

provisions. A little meat, with an axe, and a small portion of tobacco,

are generally left with them by their _nearest relations_, who in

taking leave of them, say, that it is time for them to go into the

other world, which they suppose lies just beyond the spot where the sun

goes down, where they will be better taken care of than with them, and

then they walk away weeping. On the banks of the Saskashawan, an aged

woman prevailed on her son to shoot her through the head, instead of

adopting this sad extremity. She addressed him in a most pathetic

manner, reminding him of the care and toil with which she bore him on

her back from camp to camp in his infancy; with what incessant labour

she brought him up till he could use the bow and the gun; and having

seen him a great warrior, she requested that he would shew her

kindness, and give a proof of his courage, in shooting her, that she

might go home to her relations. "I have seen many winters, she added,

and am now become a burden, in not being able to assist in getting

provisions; and dragging me through the country, as I am unable to

walk, is a toil, and brings much distress:--take your gun." She then

drew her blanket over her head, and her son immediately deprived her of

life: in the apparent consciousness of having done an act of filial

duty and of mercy.

The old man who was brought to the Settlement, by his daughter for

relief soon recovered, so as to become exceedingly troublesome by

coming almost daily to my room. I succeeded at length in starting them

for some hunters' tents on the plains, where they expressed a wish to

go, if supplied with provisions to carry them there, by killing a small

dog, and giving it to them for food. An ox would not have been more

acceptable to a distressed European family than this animal was to

these Indians. But on leaving me two more families came to my residence

in a state of starvation. Necessity had compelled them to eat their

dogs, and they themselves were harnessed to their sledges, dragging

them in a most wretched and emaciated condition. One of the men

appeared to be reduced to the last stage of existence, and upon giving

him a fish and a few cooked potatoes, such was his natural affection

for his children, that, instead of voraciously devouring the small

portion of food, he divided it into morsels, and gave it to them in the

most affectionate manner. His children from their appearance had

partaken of by far the largest share of that scanty supply which he had

lately been able to obtain in hunting. They pitched their tents at a

short distance below in the woods, and the poor man came to me next

morning with the request that I would bleed him for a violent pain

which he complained of in his side. This I refused to do, and gave him

a note to the medical gentleman of the Colony, promising to call on him

the next day. When I saw him I found that he had not delivered the

note, but had bled himself in the foot with the flint from his gun, and

spoke of having experienced considerable relief. The party were

dreadfully distressed for provisions, and had actually collected at

their tents the remains of a dog which had died, with part of the head

of a horse, that had been starved to death in the severity of the

winter, and which was the only part of the animal that was left by the

wolves. The head of the dog was boiling in the kettle, and that of the

horse was suspended over it, to receive the smoke of the fire in the

preparation for cooking; while the children were busily employed in

breaking some bones which they had picked up, with an axe, and which

they were sucking in their raw state for their moisture. This was the

suffering extremity not of lazy bad Indians, but of those who bore the

character of good hunters, and were particularly careful of their

families; and I fear it is the case of many more from the exhausted

state of animals in the neighbourhood of Red River: and from the

frequent fires that occur in the plains, which extend also to the

destruction of the woods.

Towards the conclusion of the month we had another melancholy proof of

the Indians suffering extreme want from the few animals that were to be

met with during the winter. An Indian with his wife on their arrival

gave me to understand that they had been without food for twenty days,

and had lost their three children by starvation. Their appearance was

that of a melancholy dejection, and I had my suspicions excited at the

time that they had eaten them. This was confirmed afterwards by the

bones and hands of one of the children being found near some ashes at a

place where they said they had encamped, and suffered their misery. It

appears that two of their children died from want, whom they cooked and

eat, and that they afterwards killed the other for a subsistence in

their dire necessity. I asked this Indian, as I did the other, whether

from having suffered so much, it was not far better to do as the white

people did and cultivate the ground; he said, "Yes;" and expressed a

desire to do so if he could obtain tools, seed wheat and potatoes to

plant. Though it is the character of the savage to tell you what he

will do in future at your suggestion, to prevent the calamity which he

may be suffering from want of food or the inclemency of the weather,

and as soon as the season becomes mild, and the rivers yield him fish,

or the woods and plains provisions, to forget all his sufferings, and

to be as thoughtless and improvident as ever as to futurity; yet, I

think that a successful attempt might be made by a proper superintendance,

and a due encouragement to induce some of the Indians of this quarter

to settle in villages, and to cultivate the soil. The voice of humanity

claims this attention to them, under their almost incredible privations

at times: but prejudices may exist in the country which prevent this

desirable object being carried into effect. There was a time when the

Indians themselves had begun to collect into a kind of village towards

the mouth of the Red River, had cultivated spots of ground, and had

even erected something of a lodge for the purpose of performing some of

their unmeaning ceremonies of ignorance and heathenism, and to which

the Indians of all the surrounding country were accustomed at certain

seasons to repair; but fears were entertained that the natives would be

diverted from hunting furs to idle ceremonies, and an effectual stop

was put to all further improvement, by the spirit of opposition that

then existed in the country between the two rival Fur Companies.

MARCH 10.--The ringing of the Sabbath bell now collects an encouraging

congregation; and some of us, I trust, could experimentally adopt the

language of the Psalmist, in saying, "I was glad when they said unto

us, let us go into the house of the Lord."--My earnest prayer to God

is, that I may exercise a _spiritual_ ministry; and faithfully

preach those truths which give no hope to fallen man, but that which is

founded on God's mercy in Christ. I often felt rejoiced in spirit in

the prospect of doing good amidst the wild profligacy of manners that

surrounded me, and of making known the doctrines and precepts of

Christianity, where Christ had never before been named. Several adult

married Indian women attended the Sunday School, with many half-caste

children to be taught to read, and to receive religious instruction,

which gave me an opportunity of ascertaining what the notions of the

Indians were concerning the flood and the creation of the world. They

appeared either to be ignorant, or unwilling to relate any traditionary

stories that they might have as to the original formation of the world,

but spoke of an universal deluge, which they said was commonly believed

by all Indians. When the flood came and destroyed the world, they say

that a very great man, called Wæsackoochack, made a large raft, and

embarked with otters, beavers, deer, and other kinds of animals. After

it had floated upon the waters for some time, he put out an otter, with

a long piece of shagganappy or leathern cord tied to its leg, and it

dived very deep without finding any bottom, and was drowned. He then

put out a beaver, which was equally unsuccessful, and shared the same

fate. At length he threw out a musk-rat, that dived and brought up a

little mud in its mouth, which Wæsackoochack took, and placing in the

palm of his hand, he blew upon it, till it greatly enlarged itself, and

formed a good piece of the earth. He then turned out a deer that soon

returned, which led him to suppose that the earth was not large enough,

and blowing upon it again its size was greatly increased, so that a

loom which he then sent out never returned. The new earth being now of

a sufficient size, he turned adrift all the animals that he had

preserved. He is supposed still to have some intercourse with and power

over them as well as over the Indians, who pray to him to protect them

and keep them alive. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in speaking of the

Chipewyan or Northern Indians, who traverse an immense track of

country, to the north of the Athabasca lake, says, "that the notions

which these people entertain of the creation are of a singular nature.

They believe that the globe was at first one vast and entire ocean,

inhabited by no living creature except a mighty bird, whose eyes were

fire, whose glances were lightning, and the clapping of whose wings was

thunder. On his descending to the ocean, and touching it, the earth

instantly arose, and remained on the surface of the waters. They have

also a tradition amongst them, that they originally came from another

country, inhabited by very wicked people, and had traversed a great

lake, where they suffered much misery, it being always winter, with ice

and deep snow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the first

land, the ground was covered with copper. They believe also that in

ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn out with

walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a deluge, when

the waters spread over the whole earth, except the highest mountains,

on the tops of which they preserved themselves." There appears to be a

general belief of a flood among all the tribes of this vast continent;

and the Bible shews me from whence spring all those fables, and wild

notions which they entertain; and which prevail in other parts of the

heathen world upon these subjects. They are founded upon those events

which the sacred scriptures record, and which have been corrupted by

different nations, scattered and wandering through the globe as the

descendants of Noah, without a written language. The Hindoo therefore

in his belief that the earth was actually drawn up at the flood, by the

tusks of a boar, and that it rests at this hour on the back of a

tortoise: and the North American Indian in his wild supposition that

Wæsackoochack, whose reputed father was a snake, formed the present

beautiful order of creation after the deluge, by the help of a

musk-rat, afford no inconsiderable proof that the Bible is of far

greater antiquity than any other record extant in the world, and that

it is indeed of divine origin. While its sacred page therefore informs

and decides my judgment by the earliest historic information, may its

principles influence my life in all Christian practice, and joyful

expectation of the world to come, through faith in Him, whom it records

as the Redeemer of mankind; and in whom believing "there is neither

barbarian, Scythian, bond, nor free."

'One song employs all nations, and all sing,

Worthy the Lamb! for he was slain for us.

The dwellers in the vales and on the rocks

Shout to each other; and the mountain-tops,

From distant mountains catch the flying joy;

Till, nation after nation taught the strain,

Earth rolls the rapturous hosannah round.'

I could never discover that the Indians among whom I travelled had any

thing like a visible object of adoration. Neither sun, moon, nor stars,

appear to catch their attention as objects of worship. There is an

impression upon their minds, of a Divine Being, whom they call the

_Great Spirit_, whom they ignorantly address, and suppose to be too

good even to punish them. Their general idea is, that they are more

immediately under the influence of a powerful _Evil Spirit_. Experience

has taught them this melancholy fact, in the trials, sufferings,

afflictions, and multiform death which they undergo; and therefore

their prayers are directed to him, when any severe calamity befalls

them. To avert his displeasure, they often have recourse to

superstitious practices, with the most childish credulity; and will

drum and dance throughout a whole night, in the hope of bringing relief

to the sick and dying. They know not that the great enemy of man's

happiness and salvation, is a chained enemy, and a captive to Him who

triumphed in his resurrection and ascension to glory, and under the

control and permissive will of Him, whom they denominate Keetchee

Manitou, or Great Spirit; and, consequently they are enslaved to all

that is pitiable in ignorance and superstition. Acknowledging the being

of a God, the uncultivated minds of these savages have led them to

shrink from the thoughts of annihilation, and to look forward with hope

to a future life. They have no idea however of intellectual enjoyments;

but a notion prevails among them, that at death they arrive at a large

river, on which they embark in a stone canoe; and that a gentle current

bears them on to an extensive lake, in the centre of which is a most

beautiful island, in the sight of which they receive their judgment. If

they have died courageously in war, they are particularly welcomed in

landing upon the island, where they, with skilful hunters, enjoy

perpetual spring and plenty, and live with all the good in an eternal

enjoyment of sensual pleasures. If they die with their hands imbrued

with the blood of their countrymen, and are lazy bad characters, the

stone canoe sinks with them, leaving them up to their chins in water,

that they may for ever behold the happiness of the good, and struggle

in vain to reach the island of bliss.

The 17th. I left the Colony in a cariole, to visit the Company's Post

at Bas la Rivière; we stopped the night, near the mouth of the Red

River, and crossed the point of Lake Winipeg, on the ice, the following

day, in time to reach the Fort the same evening. It is pleasantly

situated by a fine sheet of water; and is the way the canoes take their

route to Fort William, Lake Superior, and Montreal. During my stay, the

officer of the Post gave me the much admired fish of the country,

called by the Indians, _tittameg_, and by the Americans, _white-fish_.

Its usual weight is about three or four pounds; but it is caught in

some of the lakes of a much larger size; and, with the sturgeon, is a

principal article of food, and almost the only support of some of the

establishments. Before I left, the officer was married to one of the

best informed and most improved half-caste women I had seen. She was

the daughter of one of the chief factors, who was particularly fond of

his family; and afforded an instance of superiority of character among

this class of people, from the care and instruction which she had

received. The Mètifs, or, as they are sometimes called, Bois brulés,

have displayed the most striking ability as steersmen of boats, through

the most difficult rapids, and in the navigation of the rivers; and if

advantages were given them in education, they have capacities of

usefulness which might adorn the highest stations of civilized life. Of

the moral degradation, however, of these people, in common with that of

the Canadian voyageurs, it is difficult to exhibit an accurate picture.

Suffice it to say, that it is a degradation which, in some respects,

exceeds even that of the native Indian himself.

In starting from the Company's Post, on my return to the Colony, it was

my hope that we should cross the point of Winipeg Lake to the mouth of

the Red River, in one day, as we had done in our way thither; but about

two o'clock in the afternoon, I perceived, as I was in the cariole,

that the driver had mistaken his way. I told him of his error, but he

persisted in the opinion that he was right, and drove on till the

evening closed upon us, without his finding the entrance to the Red

River. Night came on, and the dogs were exhausted with fatigue, which

obliged us to stop, though not before one of them contrived to slip his

head out of the collar. It happened that we were near some wood on the

edge of the lake, but in reaching it we sank in soft drift snow up to

the middle; and it was a considerable time before we could make our

preparations for the night, under the spreading branches of a pine

tree. We got but little rest from the small fire that we were able to

make, and from our bad encampment. The next morning, I found that the

driver was greatly embarrassed in his idea of our exact situation, and

he led me throughout the day from one point of wood to another, over

the ice, on the borders of the lake, in a directly contrary way to that

in which we ought to have gone. We had no food for our dogs, and on

coming to our encampment for the night, the animals were completely

worn out with fatigue; and what added to our trials, was the loss of

the flint, which the man dropped in the snow, the first time he

attempted to strike the steel to kindle a fire. After some difficulty

we succeeded, with a small gun-flint, which I found in my pocket, and

we bivouacked upon the snow, before an insufficient fire, from the

scanty wood we were able to collect. It was my wish to have divided the

little provision that remained with the dogs, as they had eaten nothing

for two days, and I considered them scarcely able to move with the

cariole the next morning, at the same time intending to kill one of

them the following evening, to meet our wants, should we not succeed in

recovering our track. The driver assured me, however, that they would

go another day without giving up. From the conversation I had with him,

before we started on the following morning, I found that he had no

knowledge of our situation on the extensive lake before us, and

supposed that the Red River lay to the north, while I thought, from the

course of the sun, that it was to the south, and insisted upon his

taking that direction, which we did accordingly; and after a laborious

and rather anxious day's toil, we saw some points of small and

scattered willow bushes, like those which I knew to be near the

entrance of the river. This providentially proved to be the case,

otherwise our trials must have been great; the driver having become

nearly snow-blind, and incapable of driving the dogs, and the weather

becoming more intensely cold and stormy. It may easily be conceived

what our feelings were, in recovering a right track, after wandering

for several days upon an icy lake, among the intricate and similar

appearances of numerous and small islands of pine. They were those, I

trust, of sincere gratitude to God; and I often thought what a wretched

wanderer was man in a guilty world, without the light of Christianity

to guide, and its principle to direct his steps. Infidelity draws a

veil around him, and shrouds all in darkness as to a future life. All,

all is uncertainty before him, as the tempest-tossed mariner without a

compass, and the wearied wandering traveller without a chart or guide.

Let me then prize the scriptures more, which have "God for their

author, truth unmingled with error for their subject, and salvation for

their end." They are the fountains of interminable happiness, where he

who hungers and thirsts after righteousness, may be satisfied; and when

received in principle and in love, are a sure and unerring guide,

through a wilderness of toil and suffering, to the habitations of the

blessed, "not made with hands, eternal in the heavens."

As we passed along the river towards the Settlement, we met an

intoxicated Indian, who had been drinking at the grave of his child,

whom he had buried in the fall of the year. In going to the spot, I

found that all the snow and the grass had been removed, and that a

number of Indians, with Pigewis, had encircled the place where the body

had been deposited; and, as is their custom, they smoked the calumet,

wept, and sacrificed a little of what they possessed to the departed

spirit of the child. They do this, under the idea that the deceased may

want these articles in the world whither they are gone; and it is very

affecting occasionally to hear the plaintive and mournful lamentations

of the mother at the grave of her child, uttering in pitiful accents,

"Ah! my child, why did you leave me! Why go out of my sight so early!

Who will nurse you and feed you in the long journey you have undertaken!"

The strength of natural affection will sometimes lead them to commit

suicide, under the idea that they shall accompany the spirit, and nurse

their departed child in the other world. This persuasion, that the

spirits of the deceased want the same attendance in their new station

as in the present life, is so deeply rooted in the minds of the

Indians, that the _Carriers_, west of the Rocky Mountains, sometimes

burn the widow; and a chief, on the North-West coast of America,

sacrificed a human victim, who was a slave, on the death of his son. In

some provinces of America, historians have mentioned that, upon the

death of a Chief, a certain number of his wives, and of his slaves who

had been taken in war, were put to death, and interred together with

him, that he might appear with the same dignity in the world of

spirits, and be waited upon by the same attendants. Some have solicited

the honour to die, while others have fled, as marked for victims, under

this cruel and superstitious practice.

APRIL 4.--On my arrival at the Church Mission House for divine worship,

a poor Indian widow with five children, asked me to admit two of the

boys into the schools, which I immediately did, and particularly wished

her to leave the two girls also, one about six, and the other eight

years of age; but she would not comply with my request. The boys were

very wild and troublesome, and often ran away from the school to their

mother, who was generally living about the Settlement. They were

getting at length however better reconciled, and had begun to be

attached to the schoolmaster, when I was informed the Catholics were

prejudicing her mind against the school; and that some of the women of

that persuasion had told her, that I was collecting children from the

Indians with the intention of taking them away to my country. This idea

was spread amongst them, and an Indian calling at my residence told me

that he would give his boy to the school, if I would not leave them, as

he understood I intended to do. In vain did I tell him, that in going

home to see my wife and children I should be glad to return and bring

them with me, to assist me in teaching those of his country; and that

on my going away, my brother Minister would come, and love, and take

care of the Indian children as I did. He was not satisfied, and took

his boy away with him, saying he must wait, and see what was to be

done. The Saulteaux woman took her two boys away clandestinely, saying,

as I was afterwards informed, that "they would be all the same as dead

to her, if what she had heard was true," and though I had not an

opportunity of seeing her afterwards, she had the honesty to return the

children's clothes which I had given to them. These circumstances with

others that had occurred, convinced me that it would be far better to

obtain children for the school, from a distance than from the Indians

in the immediate neighbourhood of the Colony, as all those children who

were under our charge, and whose parents were more remote, soon became

reconciled to restraint, and were happy on the establishment. This

desirable object might soon be obtained by visiting the different

tribes of Indians, more especially were there a powerful interest

excited in favour of the Native School Establishment at Red River, by

the officers at the different Trading Posts.

In the attempt however to spread the knowledge of Christianity among

the natives, it appears that the least expensive mode of proceeding and

of ensuring the most extensive success for the Missionary is, to visit

those parts of the country where they are stationary, and live in

villages during the greater part of the year. He should direct his way

and persevering attention towards the rocky mountains, and the

Columbia. He may meet with difficulties and obstacles such as have

tried the faith and patience of Missionaries in other parts of the

heathen world, but let him persevere through the aid of the Company's

officers, who may introduce him to the Indians trading at their

respective Posts. Near to the foot of the rocky mountains the Indians

are known to dwell in their villages nearly nine months of the year.

During these months they live on salmon, either dried or taken fresh

from the rivers. They are not ferocious, but very indolent, and where

this is the case, are generally very licentious; but as they are

stationary for so long a period, an attempt might be made through the

co-operation of the Company's Officer, to lead them to cultivate the

soil, which at certain points will grow turnips, cabbages, and barley:

this produce, with the natural resources of the country would greatly

encourage an establishment for the education of their children

throughout the year: to the support of which the Indians themselves

might greatly contribute, and which would be attended with the most

beneficial results. In following the track towards the North Pacific

Ocean, the climate is much milder than to the East of the mountains,

and a vast encouragement would be found in seeking to benefit the

natives, from their being strangers to the intoxicating draught of

spirituous liquors, in barter for their articles of trade. So little

acquainted with the effects of intoxication are some of the Indians in

this quarter, that the following circumstance was related to me by an

Officer from the mouth of the Columbia. A Chief who had traded but

little with Europeans came to the Fort with two of his sons, and two

young men of his tribe. During their stay the servants made one of his

sons drunk. When the old man saw him foaming at the mouth, uttering the

most incoherent expressions, and staggering under the power of the

intoxicating draught, he immediately concluded that he was mad, and

exclaimed, 'Let him be shot.' It was some time before he could be

pacified, which was only effected in a measure by his being assured,

that he would see his son recovered from the disorder of his faculties.

And when the aged Chief saw him again restored to his right mind, and

found him capable of conversing, he manifested the greatest joy.

The Columbia presents every advantage in forming a settlement for the

natives or others, particularly so to the south of its entrance to the

sea, on the banks of the Willammette River. The soil is excellent; fish

and wild fowl are found in abundance, and a good supply of indigenous

animals is met with from the praries, or natural meadows. The summer

months are very pleasant, but those of winter are frequently rainy, and

subject to heavy fogs, which may occasionally render it unhealthy. The

Chinnook Indians are six months in villages in the neighbourhood of the

Company's Post, Fort George, at the mouth of the Columbia, and afford

facilities, with other surrounding tribes for the benevolent attempt of

introducing the knowledge of Christianity among them. In their war

excursions they adopt a different mode of warfare to that of the Red

River Indians, and those towards the Atlantic coast, by openly taking

the field against their enemies; and keeping their prisoners alive for

slaves. These are numerous among some of the tribes; and many might be

obtained, without purchasing them, for religious instruction. In fact

there appear to be many points in this vast territory where there is a

prospect of establishing well-conducted missions to the great and

lasting benefit of the natives. But the object should be pursued upon a

regular and persevering system, and while the Missionary needs the

active co-operation of the resident Officer in his arduous engagement

with the Indians; no idle prejudice should ever prevent his endeavours

to civilize and fix them in the cultivation of the soil where it may be

effected.

The Russians it appears are affording religious instruction in the

establishment of schools for the education of half-caste children, with

those of the natives in their Factories on the North-west coast of

North America. A gentleman informed me that he saw, at their

Establishment at Norfolk Sound, a priest and a schoolmaster, who were

teaching the children, and instructing the natives, not as the Spanish

priests do, at Fort St. Francisco, in South America, by taking them by

force, and compelling them to go through the forms and ceremonies of

_their_ religion, but by mild persuasion and conviction; and the

report of their success in general is, that a considerable number of

savages of the Polar Regions have been converted to Christianity.[8]

[8] Since my return to England I have been favoured with the

following communication from a gentleman, who travelled in

Siberia, to promote the object of the British and Foreign Bible

Society, in the general circulation of the Scriptures; and

which-corroborates the above report. "The Russians have made many

proselytes to the Greek Church, (he observes,) from among the

natives of the North-West coast of North America, and two

different supplies of copies of the Scriptures in the Slavonian

and modern Russ languages have been forwarded to that quarter,

for the use of their settlements there, by the Russian Bible

Society."

MAY 23.--The Settlers have been very industrious in getting in their

seed corn; but the weather has been, and continues to be very cold,

with a strong north and north-easterly wind, which has cheeked

vegetation; and the woods around us still wear the dark hue of winter.

We now take a plentiful supply of sturgeon, and with the return of the

feathered tribe we are much annoyed by myriads of blackbirds that

destroy a good deal of the new sown grain, as well as when it is ripe

for harvest. Multitudes of pigeons also now appear, and unless they are

continually shot at, they devour the fruits of husbandry. They fly by

millions, and are often seen extending to a vast distance like a cloud;

when one flock has passed another succeeds, and we often profit by this

kind gift of Providence, by shooting them in their migrations, as

excellent food.

There is a general talk among the surrounding tribes of Indians, of

going to war against the Sioux nation. A strong band of the

Assiniboines are directing their course towards Pembina; and Pigewis,

who is by no means a war Chief, is setting off in that direction to

join them. Their rage of vengeance towards the Sioux Indians appears to

know no bounds; but the scalp of some poor solitary individuals among

them will probably terminate the campaign. They cannot keep long

together in numerous parties from the want of foresight to provide for

their subsistence; and accordingly a little more than a week's absence

brought Pigewis back again, with his party, without their having seen

an enemy, and in the destitute condition of being without food and

moccassins.

The Substance of a Journal During a Residence at the Red River Colony, British North America and Frequent Excursions Among the North-West American Indians, In the Years 1820, 1821, 1822, 1823. · 第 5 / 6 章