Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images available at The Internet Archive)
[Illustration: Sketch of author George W. Romspert & signature]
THE WESTERN ECHO:
A DESCRIPTION
OF THE
Western States and Territories
_OF THE UNITED STATES_.
AS GATHERED IN A TOUR BY WAGON.
BY
GEORGE W. ROMSPERT.
[Illustration: colophon]
DAYTON, OHIO:
United Brethren Publishing House.
1881.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1881,
By G. W. ROMSPERT,
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE.
FRONTISPIECE.
THE PRAIRIE FIRE 111
INDIAN CRUELTY 131
THE MOUNTAIN LAKE 282
SCENE IN THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS 361
SAN FRANCISCO BAY 386
CONTENTS
PAGE.
PREFACE 11
INTRODUCTION 13
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
Start from Dayton--Coal-Mine--Indianapolis--Illinois
Roads--Springfield--Crops--Poor Water--Missouri River--Enter Iowa--Enter
Missouri--Kansas City--Des Moines Valley and City--Western Iowa--Fourth
of July at Lewis--Council Bluffs 17
CHAPTER II.
Omaha--Homestead Land--Coming Onto the Plains--Cold Winds--Platte
Valley--Republican Forks--Fort Wallace--Big Sandy--Old
Battle-Ground--Arkansas Valley--Irrigation Farming 41
CHAPTER III.
Arrival of Lesher and Wonderly--Our Start South--First Buffalo
Herd--Cimaron River--Strayed Team--Old Hunters--How to Hunt
Buffaloes--Wolf Hunt--Prairie Fire--Herd at Ten-Mile
Creek--Blizzard--Find a Frozen Man--Hide Season Ends 73
CHAPTER IV.
Summer Trip Through the South--Indian Agencies--Canadian River--Lion
Fight--Red River--Double Mountain--Staked Plains--Pecos River--Indian
Skirmish--Santa Fe, New Mexico--Return to the Arkansas
Valley--Description of the Plains--Mirage--Dangers of the Prairie--Wild
Horses and How Captured--Creasing Animals 128
CHAPTER V.
Cattle-Business Explained--Branding
Stock--Round-Up--Mavorick--Beef-Gathering--Stampedes--Tender-Feet--Stock-Raising
in Texas--Cattle-Trail--Buying Cattle from Trail--How to Enter Stock
Business--Sheep-Raising--Greasers--Texas Cattle-Fever 168
CHAPTER VI.
Cow-Boy History--Mustangs and Broncos--Cow-Boys with Six-Shooters--Dodge
City--Boot Grave-yard--Prairie Mysteries--Dance-Halls--Sketch of Buffalo
Bill--Theory of the Plains--Trading-House--Antelope Chase--We Prepare
for a Mountain Tour 201
PART II.
CHAPTER I.
We Start for the Mountains--Las Animas--Pueblo--Colorado
Springs--Manitou--Mineral Springs--We Ascend Pike’s Peak--Balancing
Rock--Garden of the Gods--Devil’s Hole--Return to Manitou 241
CHAPTER II.
Start for South Park--Ute Pass--Rainbow Falls--South Park--Bear
Fight--Leadville--Sallie Ray--Chimney
Gulch--Trout-Fishing--Denver--Cheyenne--Black Bitter Creek--Antelope
Springs--Wolf Adventure--Green River--Old Emigrant Road--Echo
Canon--Utah--Park City--Ontario Mine--Quartz-Mill--Kinds of
Mines--Prospecting--Start for Salt Lake 274
CHAPTER III.
View of Salt Lake Valley and City--Tabernacle--History of the
Mormons--Joe Smith--Came to Kirtland, Ohio--Brigham Young
Converted--Located at Independence, Missouri--Located at Nauvoo,
Illinois--Joe and Hiram Smith Killed--Emigrated to Council Bluffs--Came
to Salt Lake--Trouble with the Government--Mormon Theology 329
CHAPTER IV.
We Leave Salt Lake--Reach the Sierra Nevada Slopes--Tunnels, Gorges,
etc.--Reach California--Sacramento--San Francisco--Hotel
Runners--Fruits--Palace Hotel--Chinese--Dennis Kearney and Party--De
Young-Kalloch Tragedy--Chinese Bakers--California Climate--Ships--Golden
Gate--Woodward Garden--Portland, Oregon--Washington Territory--Sail for
Santa Barbara and Los Angeles--Prescott, Arizona--Meet General
Fremont--Big Trees--Return to Ohio 356
PREFACE.
It is the object of the author, by this volume, to place before the
people a brief history of the western states and territories through
which he traveled in a late long overland tour, together with a sketch
of the customs and occupations of the people in all the parts described.
A journey by wagon through so much territory, by so many _unknown_, has
furnished the author with knowledge that will be of so much value to
persons who think of going West, and more especially to those who intend
trying their _fortunes_ in the regions of the setting sun, that he feels
himself somewhat in duty bound to reduce it to print. Many fabulous and
speculative histories have been written of the same country; and, with
prejudiced pens, they have been deceitful records. Far from this is the
motive of the present writer. And he hopes the fruits of his labor will
prove valuable to persons who intend relying upon the merits of the
West for a future livelihood as well as those who intend journeying
thither merely for health, speculation, or pleasure; for to all such
this work is respectfully dedicated.
Dayton, Ohio, May 1, 1881.
INTRODUCTION.
Ever since there was an _East_ there was a _West_, and from the fact
that the great race of humanity had its birth upon the highlands of
_Asia_, the latter has always been a land of _discovery_, into which the
boldest of an overpopulated country must make the first strides, contend
with the greatest dangers and exposures, and break the first soil. The
great pair of Eden have wonderfully multiplied; and their posterity,
like a mighty wave, is fast flowing toward the western horizon. This
great emigration has been a continuous seige of adventure; and many a
worthy life has been lost while opening the road that must soon bear the
broad marks of civilization. Many volumes contain the records of
humanity; and the most interesting and touching part of man’s career is
the frontier life, which has been a continuous battle in the wilderness
ever since the first back was turned against the eastern sky. What a
glorious thing it has ever been that for every difficulty there has been
a _surmounter_, and for every wave a _rider_! What a treasure to the
world was he who first plowed the foaming Atlantic and moored his bark
upon the shores of the great America! The event has proved one of
necessity for the support of the growing millions, and is a lesson that
for every _creature_ there is a _home_. The mighty rivers that flowed so
long in vain through the East of this golden land now bear upon their
bosoms mighty ships, laded with the produce of the soil. The little
streams that rippled so long unheard upon their pebble beds, have all
kissed the ruby lips of civilization; and the splendid soil that yielded
so long to the savage tread, has at last found a husbandman, and fields
of golden grain wave proudly where the roots of the mighty forests have
long since decayed. But, like every other country, the first part found
has been the first overdone. One half of the world knows not how the
other half lives; and, likewise, thousands who live in the civilized and
improved East are perfectly ignorant of the great country lying west of
them. True, the land has been crossed and the history written; but the
accounts have been so varied that many who have a _desire_ to find _new
homes_ and breathe _purer air_, feel quite a delicacy in putting
everything they have to so uncertain an adventure. Many examples of
families seeking their fortunes in a land of which they have not even
the most limited knowledge,--or into which they have been betrayed by
the misrepresentations of those who value money in their own pocket
higher than comfort in the poor man’s family,--and returning in
perfectly destitute circumstances, have proved this fear to be well
founded. Nearly all the histories that have been written of the land now
in view were got up by _land-sharks_, or by persons who took a single
tour through the country, often on the train, and not seeing one eighth
of the country of which they write, nor stopping long enough in a place
to learn the ways and customs of the inhabitants, nor testing the soil,
climate, and general prospects of the country upon which the emigrant
must rely. Far from this method has been the means of this author’s
information, which he wishes to place before the people in the present
volume. With a deep conviction of common duty, every line is marked; and
the many facts gathered by so much peril and exposure will _certainly_
be a _valuable fountain_ to all those to whom this work is dedicated.
G. W. R.
THE WESTERN ECHO.
PART I.
CHAPTER I.
Start from Dayton--Coal-Mine--Indianapolis--Illinois
Roads--Springfield--Crops--Poor Water--Missouri River--Enter
Iowa--Enter Missouri--Kansas City--Des Moines Valley and
City--Western Iowa--Fourth of July at Lewis--Council Bluffs.
A back turned upon the State of _Ohio_ is a back turned against the
_Eden of the Union_! And to a person whose lot it has been to be born in
this beautiful land, and whose borders he has never crossed, to think of
quitting a civilized and happy home to wander in the land where the
savage screams and the growl of the wild beast may be heard is certainly
somewhat embarrassing. Nevertheless, being more than ordinarily
interested in the narratives of the frontier, the author, with two
comrades, John Routsong and Johnny Lair,--being stout, robust young men
of the vicinity of Dayton,--resolved to test the truth of what we had
heard and read by seeing for _ourselves_, even if it had to be done at
the price of a hair or two. Accordingly, a topped spring-wagon and a
good team were procured, and lightly we tripped along, eager to prove
ourselves Davids, and anxious to wrap ourselves in the robes of the wild
buffaloes of the prairie, the giants of our own slaying. The first part
of our journey, from its _novelty_, was the merriest; and sweeter dreams
than we dreamed while lying upon the hard ground, with nothing but a
tent to shelter us from the dews of heaven, were never dreamed by a king
in his palace. Wishing to fully experience the effect of camp-life, we
did our own cooking from the start; and never having graduated in the
_pastry art_, we were obliged to forsake _knickknacks_. And how natural
it was that we grew more and more hardy from our new diet, which we eat
in the pure, open air. Being in the month of June, the weather was warm
and the roads were delightful, and we merrily passed along until we
found ourselves treading Hoosier soil. As we wended our way toward the
interior of the state, equestrianism became quite common; and in some of
the back parts of the country we were amused at seeing the people
finding their way to church in two-horse farm-wagons. Many other little
novelties and changes attracted our attention; and we musingly passed
along until we stood upon the bank of the Wabash River, where stands the
pleasant little village of Montezuma. The stream is about two hundred
yards wide; and being very deep, we found it necessary to take the
ferry. This was something new to us; and as we floated across the stream
we imagined ourselves in the _Mayflower_, plowing the foamy Atlantic,
and carrying with us the seeds of life and death. The _former_ we
calculated for all who wished us no harm; but the _latter_ we fully
meant to spring up in the path of the wild buffalo and the bear. Our
imaginary ocean, however, was soon crossed; and having been told by the
ferryman that there was a coal-mine up the river a-piece, we determined
to visit what we had never before had the opportunity of seeing.
There lay the dark fuel, and here ran the tunnel into the foot of the
hill whence came the coal. Of course, wanting to see it all, we
determined to explore the thing to our satisfaction. The tunnel being
but three feet wide by three and a half high, we were obliged to stoop
very low. Onward we went, bold as the lion in his cave, lightly talking
of the great dampness and the little car-track that wound its way so far
into the bowels of the earth, etc., etc., until we found ourselves about
fifty yards from the daylight door. Here a slight caving from the side
of the passage caused a panic in a party of three, and for some minutes
the bowels of Vesuvius never knew a greater rumbling than was heard in
the tunnel of that coal-mine. When the weakest,--who had been trampled
into the mud by the stampede,--had once more dragged himself into
daylight, we concluded that we knew _all about_ coal-mines, and thought
it not necessary to penetrate any more hills to inform ourselves better.
Betaking ourselves to the wagon, we once more resumed our journey.
Coming into the splendid city of Indianapolis one bright morning, we
were greatly struck with its great life and beauty, and concluded to
camp in a pretty grove just back of the great asylum and spend a few
days in surveying and acquainting ourselves with the Hoosier capital.
The first was reception-day for the horse-traders, who swarmed to us
from all directions. They were all good, clever fellows, and offered us
a chance to make fifty dollars in a single swap. The boys wanted to
trade, but I had conscientious _scruples_ against taking the advantage
of such good-hearted, honest fellows, and prevailed on the boys to deal
gently with the innocent.
The great clouds of dark smoke that curl from the engines of the
thirteen railroads, the deafening sound of the car-bells at train-time,
together with a depot that is surpassed in size and magnificence by but
one or two in the United States, speak the advantages of this thriving
and lovely city. Its court-house is also a model, being one of the
finest in the land. Having informed ourselves to our satisfaction, we
again pulled out.
The roads having been good and the weather fine, our trip through
Indiana was a pleasant one, indeed; but upon our approaching Illinois we
found the character of the country materially changed. The large
beach-forests began to fade away, and before us, like a great ocean,
spread a broad and fertile prairie all covered with richest vegetation.
Here, too, the _prairie-chickens_ began to fly, and small game became
abundant. This was sport for us, and, with guns in hand, we some days
almost veiled the sun with smoke and feathers--especially smoke. From
the want of timber, fences became very few and the fields contained many
acres. We were compelled to haul our wood, for cooking purposes, for
many miles, upon different occasions. In case we forgot to take wood
along when we left where it could be had, I shall not attempt to tell
you where we got our fuel, but will simply remark that he who passes
through Illinois by wagon without pulling middle rails from the fences
or tearing down barn-yard gates must certainly have a mighty conscience
dictating for him.
There is no _gravel_ here, and the loose, black soil, dampened by the
almost incessant rains of this region, render the highways rivers of
mud. There were a great many emigrants along the road, bound for a home
beyond the Mississippi; and to see them turning their honest faces in
all earnestness toward the heavens as if wondering if something had not
burst, was truly an affecting sight. Instead of good hard pikes leading
into the cities, there are nothing but graded mud-roads; and we saw four
horses to a hearse stall in the middle of one of Springfield’s main
streets, and in the center of town. A _gravel-bank_ in central Illinois
would be a fortune indeed, and by its aid Springfield could be made a
most beautiful city. The state-house situated here is an immense
structure, covering a great area, and supporting a flag five hundred and
thirty-one feet in the air. Flags and military relics of several
nations, together with many other curiosities, are kept here for the
public view; and persons going this way and having an _opportunity_,
should by all means spend a half-day in going through this great museum.
The cost of the building is about ten millions. It is built of stone and
is fire-proof. Being rainy, and wood very scarce, we concluded to pitch
our tent on the common for the night, and go to the Central Hotel for
supper. This was our first meal inside of a house since we started, and
dressing ourselves in our long hunting-coats, with great deep pockets in
the sides, we were the center of attraction and comment; and we
naturally felt inclined to have as much sport upon our side as the
landlord and guests were having upon theirs. Accordingly, we sat at a
table to ourselves; and having caught the eyes of one of the fair
waitresses, we politely marked the bill of fare and began relating some
of our great adventures, and Indian and lion fights through which we
had dragged our lives by a single hair. And this, with our peculiar
expressions and appearances, aroused great curiosity, and whisperings
could be heard, “Which is Buffalo Bill?” “They are fierce-looking
fellows, ar’n’t they?” After we were served, taking advantage of the
good lady as she turned away, with a sort of sleight of hand the roasted
potatoes and biscuits found their way to the bottom of the great side
pockets, and we called out, “_Potatoes and biscuits, please!_”
Apologizing, and having the good lady believe that we had eaten nothing
for some time, we stayed at the table and played our game until the lady
grew pale and the great pockets were pulling heavily at our sides. We
now remarked that we thought we could wait until morning, and, seizing
our great broad-brims, started for camp. The lady, with a sigh of
relief, looked after us as if to say, “They must be powerful fellows! A
biscuit or potato is no more than a pill to them!” The next day there
was a long article in the Springfield paper about three hunters and
their mighty capacities.
The street-car track is laid in the center of the street, and between
the railing it is planked. Taking this we succeeded in getting through
the muddiest city in the world, and arrived in camp safely, well
pleased with our supper and the faithful lady. When the city was dead in
slumber, and deep darkness hung o’er it, not wishing to disturb any one,
we innocently seized a couple of chicken-coops that we found in the back
yards, and then did our own cooking. When we were breaking up the coops
into firewood down at camp, we were surprised to find a couple of
chickens fast in the laths. This made me so mad that I jerked their
heads off right then and there. John stood looking on with a troubled
gaze, and as they lay there fat and motionless, he said, “Boys, it is
too bad to waste those fowls that way; I think we had better cook them.”
Well, after considering the _hell_ we might raise by throwing dead
chickens over the common in that way, we decided to make a stew.
Feathers make very good pillows, you know; and we were very careful to
pick up every one. We stored the wood in the wagon, very carefully out
of the way, and of course had breakfast very early--for you know how
curious people are when persons are going through the country, and how
they hang around their camp, especially if they have chickens. To avoid
all this we had everything cleaned up at daylight, and then and there
made a rule that no person should be permitted to fool around the wagon.
That wood and those feathers were hard to get; and one does not know
what thieves might be lurking around. In a few days we pulled out,
striking north-west for Iowa.
Illinois is a level, rich state, and but for its great rains it would
certainly be one of the best as well as the prettiest states in the
Union. There is a great deal of corn, and some spring wheat and barley,
etc., raised here; but because of the little snow that falls, and the
great freezing and thawing of the black, loose soil of this region, fall
sowing is not successful. Stock-raising is the principal business of the
people, however, and for this the state is particularly adapted. Land
back from the cities being usually cheap (from $20 to $40 per acre),
most farms are large and improvements limited. Barns and cribs are often
but rail-pens, and thousands of bushels of corn lie exposed to the sun,
only rounded on top to turn the mighty rains. What a contrast between
this careless method of storing away corn, and the careful cribbing and
covering by Ohio farmers! The cobs are most all more or less musty, and
the grain damaged at the kernel, and we could hardly get corn that our
horses would eat. They feed most of it to hogs and cattle. Hedge fences
are fast coming in use, and ere long the whole state promises to be thus
inclosed.
With a great deal of effort we at length reached the western border of
the state. And were I to tell you the true condition of the roads during
the greater part of our journey in the state, it would appear
incredible; for sometimes the ground, in low places, would shake for ten
feet upon either side of the wagon. The surface is often dry, and
cracked by the sun, and when you break through _that_ you are _stuck_;
and that is just as _sure_ as the _wrath to come_. Several times we were
in to the axle, and not a rail within five miles. There would have been
the place to try old Job; for if he did not curse God and deny all
creation after viewing the situation, well might he be called “Job, the
patient man.” Being most of the time sick, from the poor water we found
in the state, and utterly discouraged with the bottomless roads, it is
needless to say that we were glad to get through. The people told us
that some winters they found it necessary to take the wheels off and
tie soap-kegs to the spindles to skim over the mud. Spring-vehicles are
very scarce in the country, and the most delicate society move round in
two-horse wagons and on horseback. Roads that we thought were almost
impassable they considered good. It is amusing to see a party of young
folks out riding, with sometimes four and five couples in one wagon, and
boards across the bed for seats. On they go, merry as larks. The wheel
runs into a chuck-hole, the board breaks, and like magic the scene is
changed, and number ten shoes and striped hose are cutting the air like
muskets at the battle of Bull Run. Notwithstanding our good times in
hunting and the great hospitality of the people, we had enough of
Illinois, and one glorious day we had the pleasure of standing for our
first time upon the banks of the mighty Mississippi. Of course, the
_northern_ and _southern_ parts of the state are not as low and muddy as
the _central_ part herein described; but what has been _said_ will be
verified by like experience.
The Mississippi River is a quarter of a mile in width at this place
(Keokuk), and is spanned by a powerful iron bridge. We had never seen
steamboats, and were much amused by observing them here, moving up and
down like ducks upon the water. Like old Daniel Boone, we looked at the
blue waters of the rolling stream and longed to tread the beyond. There
we once more found ourselves out of the mud, where the hills were
covered with beautiful trees, and pure, cool water flowed from the
crystal springs.
Traveling only for _information_, we had no particular route, and for
the novelty we crossed the Des Moines River into Missouri, thus eating
breakfast in Illinois, dinner in Iowa, and supper in Missouri.
Being told that there were many turkeys and deer in Missouri, we
concluded to go south as far as the Missouri River. The northern part of
the state is very rough, and well timbered; but as you go south the
surface flattens, and many acres are still covered with the same sod and
forests that accommodated the wild beast and the savage years ago. It is
fast settling up, however, and rude huts are reared in all directions.
We were cleverly received in the back country, and never failed to be
saluted at every shanty by four or five great hounds. Peeping into the
house you will see one lying upon the table, one licking the pots, one
washing the baby’s face, and the rest stretched out by the stove,--quite
a pleasant sight, indeed.
Visiting Kansas City, the great western emporium, situated at the
junction of the Kansas and Missouri rivers, we were much surprised to
see the amount of business carried on in what but a few years ago was a
vacant plain. There are several large wholesale houses here. Everything
is lively, and the business-din can be heard a long way off.
Northern Missouri and Iowa are certainly the best _cherry countries_ in
the world; for every little cherry-sprout was bending with the largest
and finest fruit. Now, we were all very fond of cherries; and knowing
our cherry-capacity better than any other persons,--whom we had not yet
visited,--we concluded to buy our fruit on the following terms: Driving
up to a place where the trees were red and bending, we tried our best to
look like gentlemen,--I mean fellows who look as though they would take
a cherry between thumb and finger, and, after rubbing it with a silk
handkerchief, put it in the mouth, squeeze it with the tongue, spit out
the seed, etc. We then asked the owner what he would charge us apiece
for permission to eat a few cherries from the trees. I suppose we must
have succeeded pretty well in our trial to appear delicate, for we
bargained generally for five cents apiece; and, mighty Lord! when we
perched ourselves in the branches and began, the money did not pay the
cherry-man for the time he and his family wasted in watching us, besides
the cherries that _our sort of gentlemen could_ and _did_ eat. We never
went over the _same road_ twice; but I suppose they do not sell cherries
on the tree along there any more.
Going north from Kansas City, we again took the Des Moines River Valley,
and went for the capital of Iowa. We were _raised_ in a pretty country,
and we passed through some on our journey; but this lovely valley, about
two miles wide and of the very richest soil, spreading out level as a
floor and covered with rich, golden grain, the dwellings here and there
all surrounded with trees loaded with beautiful fruit, divided by the
Des Moines, rolling between banks all skirted with mighty sycamores, is
certainly an Eden to behold.
Coming into Des Moines, we found a pretty city, with nice, broad
streets, but no gravel. It is situated on both sides of the stream, and
all the water is forced from Coon River. There is not a well in the
town. The new state-house had been worked at six years, and it would
require about four or five more to finish it. It is seven hundred feet
long, and when finished will certainly be a grand structure. It is being
built of stone, and its cost is approximated at five millions of
dollars.
Leaving the valley and striking west for Council Bluffs, we opened into
a wild country, and for the first time realized that we were leaving
civilization behind. The broad forest had entirely faded away, and the
surface that had begun to wave at the great river-bank had now become
very rough, and the steel of the husbandman had not yet pierced the aged
sod. A broad, open land stretched out before us, like a sea whose waters
were tossed by a mighty wind, and marked only by the dim trails that led
from one to the other of the distant little sod domiciles. Great herds
of cattle may be seen upon the hill-sides of this rich pasture-land, and
large flocks of sheep are bleating in the valleys. The country being
_very_ rough, there is very little _farming_ done; and a fence is a
novelty. Herders are employed upon these conditions: They are to take
care of the cattle on the prairie for four months, salt them, and stand
all losses,--unless the brand of the missing animal can be
produced,--and while _boarding themselves_ they receive one dollar and
twenty-five cents per head; and often having five and six hundred head
together, there is money in it; and a number of young men find
employment here.
It was only with _great effort_ that we found our way over the rough
prairie and unbridged streams, in which we often stuck. The country
looks as if God had carefully made the hills to order, and then fitted
them together as closely as he could; and heavy rains falling here all
run down the hills into the valleys, which are usually very soft, and
many times the water stands very deep in them. There was one time (and
which I shall not soon forget) that we came to a slough about fifty
yards wide. We could tell by its _look_ that it was a _bad crossing_,
and as far as we could see either way, it appeared the same. So, seeing
several old wagon tracks through it, we pushed in. Starting in _lively_,
we managed to get about half way, when the wagon was in to the hub and
the mud so stiff that the horses could get no further. There we were in
the middle of a slough between the hills of Iowa, and the prospect of
our being anywhere else for some time about as limited as a boy’s show
for victory in a fight with a red-headed school-marm. You may all talk
of wisdom, but I will bet a million if Solomon _himself_ had been there,
he would have stood out upon the bank and said, “Boys, you are in a
worse fix than five hundred wives have ever been able to put me.” But
after about exhausting our ingenuity, we at length unhitched our horses
and took them across. Tying a long rope to the end of the tongue, we
hitched the team to it and pulled the wagon on a lock. Unluckily for me,
I had the appearance of being the best wheel-horse in the crowd; and
though I coughed and told the boys that getting into the mud and over
exerting myself would certainly be the cause of my _death_, they still
insisted. Just then finding that they too were consumptive, and limping
with pain in every joint, I consented to take my _chances_; and after
preparing for the occasion like any person would in such circumstances,
where clothes were scarce and no one near, I waded into the doughy sea.
I held the wheel from going _back_, while Johnny pulled the wagon on a
lock on my side. I would then draw myself up out of the mud, take a few
long breaths, and after touching up my will-power with a little Iowa
bog-sirup that we had along, go to the other side. We worked thus from
left to right, moving a foot at a time; and at length, when the bottle
could have been broken without wasting much sirup, we once more stood
upon _terra firma_. We had often heard of _the valley of the shadow of
death_, and right then and there concluded that if that was not it, it
must be a fork of it, and if we found that it reached from the north to
the south, we would go by the way of the _gulf_ on our return. However,
after washing our horses all over, and trimming ourselves up to once
more look like white men, we felt a little more experienced and none the
worse. We were about ready to start again when we caught sight of a
middle-aged Dutch-woman, with two little mules to a spring-wagon, and a
great coop of chickens, bearing down the hill-side to the same mud-hole.
Willing to lend our experience, especially to a _lady_, we most politely
spoke to her; but she paid no more attention than if a _prairie-dog_
had barked at the road-side. Well, thought we, it is a nice thing to be
_independent_; but that mud-hole may bother you some, and may be the
means of our becoming intimately acquainted. Sure enough, when she got
to about where _we_ stuck, the little mules gave out and one of them lay
down. You may all talk of whoops and halloos, but the yell of the
rebels, the groans of the dying, and the thundering of the cannon at the
battle of _Stone River_, were not to be compared to the shouts of that
_Dutch-woman_ in the midst of the Iowa bog. Nevertheless, neither the
angry countenance nor the force of the brawny arm had any effect upon
the little mule, which, like Job, had determined to take it patiently.
If you could have seen the unearthly smile upon her face as she looked
back to us and yelled, “_Coom_,” you would have been _surprised_ at the
great change one mud-hole and one Dutch-woman can bring about. Wading in
to where the little Job lay prostrate, I took hold of his bridle and
gave him a kick in the ribs and an English yell; and doubtless never
having heard an _English word_ in his _life_, it apparently frightened
him so that he forgot all about the _mud-hole_. The last we saw of the
_Dutch-woman_ she was going over the brow of a hill, sitting upon the
back of her neck, screaming in the key of E, the old chicken-coop
tossing, the chickens squalling, and the little mules down to a mile a
minute. If it had not been for that ugly _bog_ to cross we would have
_looked after_ that outfit; for the way that _coop_ was bobbing it might
have fallen out, and the poor chickens would have starved, for _she_
never _could_ stop the mules; and you know if _we_ had found them we
would have _fed_ them. This was one more lesson of _experience_, and we
started on.
A few hours’ travel brought us into the little village of Lewis; and the
next day being the Fourth of July, we concluded to stay _over_ and have
some fun. We enjoyed ourselves very well; and as the end of the gala day
drew nigh, people found that we were _travelers_ and gathered around us
to trade _horses_. Well, we had one horse that wanted to _stop_ very
often when we were in a great _hurry_, and having given us a great deal
of trouble, we concluded to cheat somebody to get _even_ with Iowa any
how. Of course we showed quite an unwillingness to trade; but when a
fellow brought a fine young-looking horse around and warranted him safe
and sound, and to work any place, we traded, thinking there was no harm
in cheating a man when _he_ proposed the trade. We swapped even, and he
throwing a saddle upon his new horse was soon out of sight. Proudly we
buckled the harness upon ours, and everything being ready I drew up the
lines to start, when behold! like the wife of Lot, his action had all
vanished and he stood as immovable as Pike’s Peak. He was worse than the
_other one_, for _she would go_ when the wagon was _started_, but _this_
one refused to go if you just stood him before the wagon without
_harness on_. Then we pulled the wagon out of town with one horse and
camped for the night. Of course we got him with a _warranty_, but where
in the thunder was the warrantor? All had vanished. Many persons came
around with old plugs, thinking that of course we would trade for
anything that would _pull_. We told them he was the kind of a horse we
wanted, and in the morning we would show them something.
Morning came, and putting the harness on him we put up the traces and
tied his tail to the single-tree, when, to the surprise of all, he
started off, pulling the whole wagon, the other horse, and all. The
horse-traders swore the like was never seen in _Iowa_; and they looked
after us with wonder until we were over the hill. We were delighted with
our success, and all went along smoothly until we got about five miles
from town and came to a bridge where the dirt was washed away from each
side; and the wheel striking this, he balked on the tail. We knew he had
_good shoulders_, and he had shown us that he had a _noble tail_; and to
refuse to use _either_ was an _insult_ to us, and we set about to use
compulsion. It was not long, however, before the tongue was cracked and
both single-trees broken, and the battle just begun. John went back to
town to get the breaks mended, and Johnny and myself set to work in
earnest. We had used kind words and coaxed him, all to no purpose; for
as long as you were _friendly_ he was as gentle as a lamb, but as soon
as you wanted to make him _work_ he considered our friendship at an end.
So we took him from the wagon and tied up one foot and put on
throw-ropes and hitched him to a bush. Of course he refused to go, and
every time he refused we pulled him down. When he pulled one bush, we
put on another. We had seen _bad horses_, and we had heard of the
_devil_, and we concluded that he was one fourth _bad horse_ and _three
fourths devil_. We worked hard until late in the afternoon before he
would pull his part of the spring-wagon. Just as he was beginning to
work two men came along, going east. They had a good two-horse wagon,
and we traded. We now had a good, stout wagon, and the next morning,
after a little squabble, we had no more trouble, and the buckskin
mustang was conquered. Our experience was such as to make us tired of
Iowa, and after determining never to cheat another _western man_ out of
a horse, even if he did name his own terms, we rapidly pushed on until
we stood in the streets of Council Bluffs. This is a neat, pretty little
town, located near the bank of the great Missouri, and among the bluffs
that rise mountain high. It received its name from the council held
there in the year 1804 by Lewis and Clark, United States explorers, to
decide upon the best method of avoiding the Indian dangers. Having
wended our way down to the river-side, we stood upon the bank of the
muddiest stream that washes the soil of the Union. There being no
wagon-bridge here, we were obliged to take passage to the opposite bank
upon the train and over the great railroad bridge, which the Indian
chief said looked like a “much big spider-web.”