We shall speak only incidentally of London; to describe such a mammoth
city even superficially would require an entire volume. It is situated
on the river Thames, fifty miles from its mouth, containing a population
of about five millions. It is consequently the largest metropolis in the
world. Many of the older streets are confused, narrow, and intricate,
but the modern portion of the city consists of broad, straight
thoroughfares and fine substantial buildings. No capital is better
supplied with public parks, the most notable being Hyde Park, covering
about four hundred acres in the heart of London, and forming the most
popular promenade and drive during the favorite hours of the day, when
there is always a brilliant display of wealth and fashion.
[Illustration: TOWER OF THE HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT.]
It was in existence at the time of Cæsar's invasion and has flourished
ever since. Of the many churches, new and old, that known as Westminster
Abbey is the most interesting, being the shrine of England's illustrious
dead. It has been a sacred temple and a royal sepulchre for many
centuries; but the towers were completed by the famous English
architect, Sir Christopher Wren, who also designed St. Paul's Cathedral,
the grandest structure of its kind in the country. Old St. Paul's was
destroyed by fire in 1665-6. A Christian church has occupied the same
site from a very early period. The present edifice is five hundred feet
long and more than one-fourth as wide. The height of the dome to the top
of the cross is over three hundred and sixty feet, while the grand and
harmonious proportions of the whole are beyond description. The Houses
of Parliament form a very imposing architectural pile. The Victoria
Tower is seventy-five feet square and nearly three hundred and fifty
feet high. The clock-tower is forty feet square and three hundred and
eighteen feet high. The face of the clock, placed at this great
elevation, must be very large to be discernible upon the street, and is
twenty-three feet in diameter.
The British Museum is a noble institution, both in its object and its
general appearance. Its front measures three hundred and seventy feet in
length, the central portion being decorated with a grand line of lofty
columns in the Ionic style. These columns are five feet in diameter and
forty-five feet in height. The collection of Greek and Roman
antiquities, curiosities from all parts of the world, and valuable
relics, undoubtedly exceed in interest and comprehensiveness any other
similar museum. The library contains over a million volumes and
thousands of precious manuscripts. The National Gallery of Paintings on
Trafalgar Square has been formed at an enormous expense, and is worthy
of the great metropolis, though it is exceeded in the number of examples
and in the individual merit of many of the paintings by some of the
continental galleries of Europe. The Zoölogical Garden, adjoining
Regent's Park, is one of the great attractions to strangers, and of
never-failing interest to the people, being probably the most complete
and extensive collection of wild and domestic animals, quadrupeds,
birds, and reptiles in the world. Regent's Park is even larger than
Hyde Park. Besides these noble, health-dispensing parks,--these
breathing-places for a dense population,--the metropolis is dotted here
and there with large squares, varying in extent from four to six acres
each. The most notable of these are Belgrave Square, Trafalgar Square,
Grosvenor Square, Portman Square, Eaton Square, and Russell Square.
[Illustration: THE TOWER OF LONDON.]
Twelve bridges other than railroad bridges cross the river Thames within
the city boundary. The largest manufacturing interest in London is that
of the breweries, wherein eleven million bushels of malt are annually
consumed.
Buckingham Palace, the town residence of Queen Victoria, occupies a
location facing St. James's Park, and is a spacious building, but of no
architectural pretention. The famous tower of London, according to
tradition, was originally built by Julius Cæsar, and is situated on the
east side of the city, on the left bank of the Thames. It is no longer
used as a prison, but is a national armory and museum of warlike
implements of antiquity. London has an underground railway running
beneath the streets and houses by means of tunnels, and also through
cuttings between high walls, forming a complete belt round the inner
sections of the city, while branch lines diverge to the suburbs.
Statistics show that the railway company which controls the line conveys
about eighty millions of passengers annually, at an average rate of
twopence each, or four cents of our American currency, per trip. There
are over fifty regularly licensed theatrical establishments in the city.
The charitable organizations of London are on a scale commensurate with
its great wealth and population, while its educational facilities are on
an equally extensive scale.
Travellers who land in England at Holyhead, on their way to London, go
to the great metropolis by way of Chester, which is one of the most
interesting cities in Great Britain. It has a population of a little
over thirty thousand, and retains more of its ancient character than any
other city of England. The old defences have been carefully preserved,
and charming views of the surrounding country may be enjoyed from the
promenade which follows the course of the wall. Many of the houses are
so constructed that the second floors form a series of continuous
galleries or covered ways for foot passengers, known as the "Rows."
There is an ancient cathedral here of considerable interest, rendered
familiar by the numerous pictures of its several parts which have been
so often published. One of the most popular race-courses in England is
situated just outside of the city walls of Chester. There is a fine
modern Gothic residence in the environs, belonging to the Marquis of
Westminster, known as Eaton Hall, and which people travel long distances
to see, as it is considered one of the finest structures of its kind in
the kingdom.
A railway journey of a hundred miles from London takes us into a
beautiful portion of rural England, to that pleasant watering-place, the
town of Leamington, where some natural springs exist which are believed
to possess certain medical properties. There is a resident population of
twenty thousand, which is largely increased during the attractive season
of the year. This neighborhood is not only remarkable in a historical
point of view, but also for the rural beauty and quiet charms of its
scenery. There is here a public garden of twelve or fifteen acres in the
middle of the town, under a high condition of cultivation.
It is but a short trip by rail from Leamington to Kenilworth Castle, or
rather to its ruins. We need not narrate the historical associations of
this place. Scott, in his admirable novel, "Kenilworth," has rendered
the reading world familiar with it. The bare and crumbling walls are an
eloquent monument of the days of chivalry. The castle is said to have
been sufficiently extensive to have accommodated on one occasion Queen
Elizabeth and four hundred lords and ladies attached to her household.
It was left to the charming pen of Sir Walter Scott to fix the history
of the time and place upon the memory more effectually than could be
done by the pages of the professed historian.
From Leamington we may also make an excursion to Warwick Castle, one of
the grandest and best preserved of mediæval structures to be seen in
Great Britain, and which is occupied by the present Earl of Warwick.
This relic of the past, perhaps quite as ancient as Kenilworth, of which
only the ruins remain, is in a condition of perfect preservation, and we
believe it has never ceased to be occupied by representatives or
descendants of the same family. The castle contains a museum of
antiquity, including a great variety of armor, battle-axes, swords,
flags, and war implements generally, which were used by the ancestors of
the present earl. There are some choice paintings in the spacious halls,
while from the windows views may be enjoyed, fully depicting the
beauties of English rural scenery.
Stratford-on-Avon--the birthplace of Shakespeare--is within a short
distance by rail: it contains some four thousand inhabitants. Few
foreign travellers fail to visit Stratford. We come to the suggestive
spot on a bright, sunny day, and hasten at once to the old church where
rest the mortal remains of Shakespeare. Just back of this ancient
Gothic structure flows the quiet Avon in the same bed where it has
glided for centuries. A group of hay-makers lying idly upon the grass on
the opposite bank are gossiping away the noon hour; a fisherman with
pole and line is daintily sounding the shady nooks of the peaceful
river; a few white swans glide gracefully in the shadow of the
overhanging willows, while in the middle distance a flock of sheep
nibble the rich green herbage. We find the interior of the church but
little superior in architecture and ornamentation to most country
churches. The tomb of the poet is in the chancel. Just over the grave,
in a niche of the wall, is a bust of Shakespeare, which was placed there
shortly after his death, and which is believed to be a good and true
likeness of the original. He died at the comparatively early age of
fifty-three. We take refreshment at the Red Horse Inn, rendered famous
by Washington Irving, stroll thoughtfully through the quaint old
village, and visit, with thrilling interest, the house in which
Shakespeare was born.
From this remarkable vicinity we take passage over the Great Northern
Railroad, by way of Preston and Carlisle, finally reaching Edinburgh,
the thriving and pleasant capital of Scotland.
It is a peculiarly formed city, being built on three parallel ridges of
considerable elevation, and is remarkable for the general excellence and
elegance of its architecture. The older portion of the city is situated
upon the loftiest of the ridges, and on which the houses rise to the
height of nine and ten stories along the edges and on the steep slopes.
The streets in the old town are narrow and irregular. The newer section
occupies a lower ridge, being separated from the old by a valley which
is improved as a public garden and for business purposes. The public
and private buildings are mostly constructed of a white stone resembling
marble, which is quarried in the neighborhood. The population numbers
about three hundred thousand, occupying a territory which measures just
about two square miles. The longest street commences at the Palace of
Holyrood and ends at Castle Hill, upon the summit of which is Edinburgh
Castle, standing four hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea.
[Illustration: EDINBURGH CASTLE.]
This might appropriately be called the city of monuments. Among the most
prominent are statues to Sir Walter Scott, Nelson, Playfair, Professor
Wilson, Allan Ramsay, the Duke of Wellington, and Robert Burns. Scott's
monument stands quite by itself on Princes Street, and rises to two
hundred feet in height. Few monuments in the world equal this Gothic
structure in architectural beauty. The citizens of Edinburgh may well be
proud of their numerous educational institutions and charitable
establishments, in which departments of noble liberality no city in
Great Britain can surpass the Scotch metropolis. Near by Holyrood Palace
are the ruins of the ancient abbey of the same name, founded by David I.
nearly eight hundred years ago. In its chapel Queen Mary was married to
Lord Darnley. In visiting the castle on the hill we are shown the small
room wherein Queen Mary became the mother of James VI., who was
afterwards king of England. The royal infant was lowered from the window
of the little chamber in a basket, when friends received it and thus
saved it from its scheming enemies.
In the High Street we visit the house where John Knox, the great
Scottish reformer, lived. Close by, in White Horse Close, is the inn
where Dr. Johnson lodged in 1773, while in the churchyard hard by are
the graves of Adam Smith and Dugald Stewart. It is not possible to feel
indifferent to such associations. No grander figure can be found in the
history of the Reformation than that of John Knox. His biography reads
like a romance. Whether serving a two years' sentence in the French
galleys, enduring a siege in the castle of St. Andrews, being tried for
treason by order of Queen Mary, haranguing from the pulpit against what
he considered false religionists, or having his steps dogged by
assassins, Knox never swerved from what he believed to be the path of
duty.
In the immediate environs of the city, to the south of Holyrood, are
Salisbury Crags and Arthur's Seat, always visited by strangers, besides
being a favorite resort of the citizens of Edinburgh. There is a fine
road-way which surrounds Arthur's Seat, known as "The Queen's Drive."
Scott made this vicinity of more than passing interest by his "Heart of
Mid-Lothian," and the local guides point out the spot where Jeanie Deans
is represented to have met Robertson. The "Queen's Drive" affords from
several points charmingly comprehensive views.
A drive of twenty miles through the hills and plains lying to the
southeast of the city will take us to Melrose, a place only noted for
its famous ruins of the Abbey. It was founded by David I., in 1136, for
monks of the Cistercian order, and rebuilt in an elaborate and elegant
style between the reign of Robert Bruce and James IV. It was the finest
church, as it is the noblest ruin, in Scotland. Scott has rendered us
familiar with it. From here we drive to Abbotsford, the home of Sir
Walter, and which is still kept exactly in the condition in which the
poet left it on the day of his death. We wander through the house,
lingering in the library, sit in the chair before the table where he sat
and wrote in prose and poetry; we examine the curious collection of
armor and the various historical mementos which he gathered about him,
among which are weapons once owned by Rob Roy and the Douglas, and those
of other real characters about whom his genius has woven such romantic
interest. Abbotsford House is large, imposing, and beautifully situated,
the spacious grounds which are attached to it sloping gracefully down to
the banks of the river Tweed, beyond which rise the beautiful Selkirk
Hills.
In travelling about the rural districts of Scotland in the vicinity of
Edinburgh, one is impressed by the thrifty appearance of the country,
which seems to be cultivated with great care. We see many flocks of
sheep. There is not much attempt at what is called gardening, but a few
staples in grain are depended upon, and much attention is given to the
raising of sheep, horses, and cattle. The men and women are of a strong,
vigorous type, hospitable and kindly. The national characteristics of
the Scotch exhibit themselves in the simplest transactions. They are a
remarkably intelligent and well-educated people; steady-going, plodding,
economical, very set in their ways and opinions, being rather slow
according to American ideas, but uncommonly sure and reliable.
Glasgow differs from Edinburgh in many respects. Its situation is low,
and the view is obstructed by a multiplicity of tall, smoky chimneys,
with other tokens of manufacturing industry. It is the most populous
city of Scotland, having over half a million of inhabitants, and is
located on the banks of the river Clyde. Except in the manufacturing
parts of the town, the architecture and streets are fine and
attractive. Dressed freestone is the material most commonly used in the
construction of the best dwelling-houses and the public buildings. The
river is crossed by five noble bridges,--two of granite, one of
iron,--and two are suspension bridges. The city reminds one forcibly of
Pittsburgh in America. The chemical works, foundries, and workshops of
all kinds, using such quantities of bituminous or soft coal, create an
atmosphere of a dense, smoky character.
Glasgow contains four large and beautifully kept parks. The city is over
a thousand years old, but we have no record of its earliest three or
four centuries. Situated in the midst of a district abounding in coal
and iron, and upon a river which insures it world-wide commerce,
maritime enterprise has been a natural result. Here James Watt made his
memorable improvements in the steam-engine, and here Henry Bell first
demonstrated in the Old World the practicability of steam navigation.
This was in 1812, four years after Fulton's successful experiments upon
the Hudson River in this country, but of which Bell seems to have had no
knowledge. Glasgow has many handsome and substantial blocks of
dwelling-houses. Buchanan Street and Queen Street are both remarkably
elegant thoroughfares; the former especially is notable for its large
and attractive stores. Argyle Street is very broad and two miles long,
one of the finest avenues in Great Britain. Here, as in Edinburgh, there
are numerous public monuments, among which we observe the equestrian
statues of William III., the Duke of Wellington, in front of the Royal
Exchange; and that of Queen Victoria, in George's Square. There is also
an obelisk one hundred and forty feet high, erected to the honor of
Nelson, besides others of Sir Walter Scott, Sir John Moore, James Watt,
Sir Robert Peel, etc.
There are two chimneys in the city designed to carry off the poisonous
gases from the chemical works, which are respectively four hundred and
sixty, and four hundred and fifty feet in height, the latter carrying
off the vapor from St. Rollox, the largest chemical manufactory in the
world. These buildings cover fifteen acres of ground, and the works give
employment to over a thousand men. Cotton factories are also numerous
here, and calico-printing establishments. Beer-brewing is one of the
largest branches of manufacture, as it is also in London. In the
building of iron steamships the port of Glasgow leads the world. For a
long time there was an average of one steamer a day launched on the
banks of the Clyde, in the vicinity, though this number is not quite
kept up at the present time. Clyde steamers have a high reputation, and
are given the preference for durability and general excellence of
workmanship.
Greenock, with a population of about fifty thousand, is one of the
finest seaports in Scotland, having also a large business in iron
ship-building. This was the native place of James Watt, already spoken
of, and here we observe an admirable statue reared to his memory. The
city is situated a little over twenty miles from Glasgow, on the Firth
of Clyde. From here we take passage in a steamer across the Irish Sea to
Belfast, the principal city of Northern Ireland.
Belfast has a population of about two hundred thousand, and next to
Dublin is the most important city of the country. It is comparatively
modern, its tall chimneys, large factories, and spinning-mills speaking
intelligibly of material prosperity. Queen's College is a large
structure in the Tudor style, with a frontage of six hundred feet in
length. There is an admirable museum on College Square containing a
large collection of Irish antiquities. We also find an excellent
botanical garden here, and there are no better school facilities in the
United Kingdom than are to be enjoyed in this metropolis of Northern
Ireland. From Cave Hill, in the suburbs, an elevation over a thousand
feet in height, a most admirable view of the city and its surroundings
may be enjoyed, the coast of Scotland being visible on the far horizon.
The streets of Belfast are regular, broad, and cleanly, and many of the
public buildings are superb in architectural effect. The city hall, the
custom house, the Ulster Bank, and Linen Hall are all noble structures.
This is the great headquarters of the Irish linen trade.
A short journey of about a hundred miles due south by railway will bring
us to Dublin, the capital of Ireland. It has a population of about four
hundred thousand, and is situated on the shore of Dublin Bay, with the
river Liffey flowing through its centre. It is an attractive city with
very beautiful surroundings. There are many grand public buildings,
several large parks, a number of interesting old churches, and a
cathedral,--St. Patrick's,--connected with which are the associations of
six centuries. The remains of Dean Swift are buried here. Near by is the
house where Thomas Moore, the poet, was born, and not far away is the
birthplace of the Duke of Wellington. Dublin has its public library, its
museum, its Royal College of Surgeons, and its famous Trinity College,
where Goldsmith, Swift, Burke, and many others graduated. It has also
many noble charitable organizations and societies for the diffusion of
science. The zoölogical garden is one of the most extensive in Great
Britain. Dublin Castle is near the centre of the city, on slightly
elevated ground, containing an armory, a chapel, and various government
offices. This city claims great antiquity, having existed as a capital
since the days of Ptolemy. It was for centuries held by the Danes; in
1169 it was taken by the English under Strongbow, whose remains lie in
Christ Church Cathedral.
From Dublin we take passage on board of a steamer for Liverpool, the
commercial metropolis of England, which contains about seven hundred
thousand inhabitants. It is situated on the river Mersey, four miles
from the sea. To the traveller it presents few attractions save those of
a great shipping depot, which is unsurpassed in the department of
maritime enterprise.
The moral and physical character of the population, taken in mass, is
rather low, though the city has many institutions and associations
designed to promote intelligence and to fulfil all charitable demands.
The exhibitions of intemperance to be met with upon the streets at all
hours forms a disgraceful picture of humanity, in which respect
Liverpool seems to be more sadly afflicted than are the lowest sections
of London.
From here we sail for Nassau, New Providence, a British possession in
the Bahama Islands, lying northeast from Cuba, the largest of the West
Indian Islands.