As we advance northward, our experiences become more and more peculiar.
It seems as if humanity, like nature, is possessed by a certain
sleeplessness in these regions during the constant reign of daylight.
People are wide awake and busy at their various occupations during all
hours, while the drowsy god appears to have departed on a vacation to
the southward. The apparent incongruity of starting upon a fresh
enterprise at midnight is only realized on consulting one's watch.
All along the coast the birds are nearly as numerous as the fishes, and
many islands are solely occupied by them as breeding-places. Their
numbers are beyond calculation, consisting of petrels, swans, geese,
pelicans, auks, gulls, and divers. These last are more particularly of
the duck family, of which there are over thirty distinct species in and
about this immediate region. Curlews, ptarmigans, cormorants, and
ospreys are also seen in greater or less numbers.
The steamer lands us for a few hours at Tromsöe, a small island in
latitude 69° 38´ north, a thriving place of six thousand inhabitants, a
goodly number for a town within the Arctic Circle. It is the capital of
Norwegian Lapland. Both to the north and south of the town snow-clad
mountains shut off distant views. During the winter months there are
only four hours of daylight here out of the twenty-four,--that is, from
about ten o'clock A.M. until two o'clock P.M.,--but the long nights are
made comparatively light by the glowing splendor of the Aurora Borealis.
The birch-trees in and about Tromsöe are of a remarkably developed
species, and form a marked feature of the place.
Just outside of the town a field is seen golden with buttercups, making
it difficult to realize that we are in the Arctic regions. A
pink-blooming heather also covers other fields, and we are surprised by
a tiny cloud of butterflies, so abundant in the warm sunshine, and
presenting such transparency of color as to suggest the idea that a
rainbow has been shattered, and is floating in myriad particles in the
air.
The short-lived summer perhaps makes flowers all the more carefully
tended. In the rudest domestic quarters a few pet plants are seen whose
arrangement and nurture show womanly care. Every window in the humble
dwellings has its living screen of drooping, many-colored fuchsias,
geraniums, forget-me-nots, and monthly roses. The ivy is especially
prized here, and is picturesquely trained to hang about the
window-frames. The fragrant sweet-pea, with its snow-white and
peach-blossom hues, is often mingled prettily with the dark green of the
ivy, the climbing propensities of each making them fitting mates. Surely
there must be an innate sense of refinement among the people of these
frost-imbued regions, whatever their seeming, when they are actuated by
such delicate tastes.
One of the most interesting subjects of study to the traveller on the
journey northward is to mark his progress by the products of the forest.
The trees will prove, if intelligently observed, a means of fixing his
position. From the region of the date and the palm we come to that of
the fig and the olive; thence to the orange, the almond, and the
myrtle. Succeeding these we find the walnut, the poplar, and the lime;
and again there comes the region of the elm, the oak, and the sycamore.
These will be succeeded by the larch, the fir, the pine, the birch, and
their companions. After this point we look for no change of species, but
a diminution in size of these last named. The variety of trees is the
result of altitude as well as of latitude, since there are mountain
regions of Southern Europe, as well as in America, where one may pass in
a few hours from the region of the olive to that of the stunted fir.
From Tromsöe vessels are fitted for exploration towards the North Pole;
some for the capture of seals and walruses among the ice-fields, and
also on the coast of Spitzbergen. A small propeller is seen lying in the
harbor fitted with a forecastle gun, whence to fire a lance at whales--a
species of big fishing, so to speak, which is made profitable here.
Little row-boats with high bows and sterns flit about the bay like
sea-birds on the wing, and ride as lightly upon the water. These are
often "manned" by a couple of sturdy women who row with great precision,
their faces glowing with animation. These boats, of the same model as
that ancient Viking ship at Christiania, sit very low in the water
amidship, but are remarkable for buoyancy and the ease with which they
are propelled.
The Lapps in their quaint and picturesque costumes of deer-skins
surround the newly arrived steamer, in boats, offering furs, carved horn
implements, moccasins, walrus-teeth, and the like for sale. These wares
are of the rudest type, and of no possible use except as mementos of the
traveller's visit to these far northern latitudes. This people are very
shrewd in matters of trade, and are not without plenty of low cunning
hidden behind their brown, withered, expressionless faces. They are
small in stature, being generally under five feet in height, with
prominent cheek bones, snub noses, oblique Mongolian eyes, big mouths,
large, ill-formed heads, hair like meadow hay, and very scanty beards.
Such is a pen portrait of a people who once ruled the whole of
Scandinavia. A short trip inland brings us to the summer encampment of
the Lapps, formed of a few rude huts, outside of which they live except
in the winter months. A Lapp sleeps wherever fatigue overcomes him,
preferring the ground, but often lying on the snow. They are a wandering
race, their wealth consisting solely in their herds of reindeer, to
procure sustenance for which necessitates frequent changes of locality.
A Laplander is rich provided he owns enough of these animals to support
himself and family. A herd that can afford thirty full-grown deer
annually for slaughter, and say ten more to be sold or bartered, makes a
family of a dozen persons comfortably well off. Some are destroyed every
year by wolves and bears, notwithstanding all the precautions taken to
prevent it, while in severe winters a large number are sure to die of
starvation.
The herds live almost entirely on the so-called reindeer moss, but this
failing them, they eat the young twigs of the trees. When the snow
covers the ground to a depth of not more than three or four feet, these
intelligent creatures dig holes in it so as to reach the moss, and
guided by instinct they rarely fail to do so in just the right place.
The Lapps themselves would be entirely at a loss for any indication as
to where this food should be sought when covered by the deep snow. The
reindeer will carry, lashed to its back, a hundred and thirty pounds, or
drag upon the snow, when harnessed to a sledge, two hundred and fifty
pounds, travelling ten miles an hour for several consecutive hours,
without apparent fatigue. The country over which these people roam is
included in Northern Norway and Sweden, with a portion of Northwestern
Russia and Finland, extending over about seven thousand square miles,
but the whole race will hardly number thirty thousand. Lapland, in
general terms, may be said to be the region lying between the Polar
Ocean and the Arctic Circle, the eastern and western boundaries being
the Atlantic Ocean and the White Sea, two-thirds of which territory
belongs to Russia, and one-third is about equally divided between Norway
and Sweden.
In the winter season the Lapps retire far inland, where they build
temporary huts of the branches of the trees, plastered with clay and
banked up with snow, leaving a hole at the top as a chimney for the
smoke, the fire being always built upon a broad, flat stone in the
centre of the hut. In these rude, and, according to our estimate,
comfortless cabins, they hibernate, rather than live the life of
civilized human beings, for eight months of the year.
After leaving Tromsöe our course is north-northeast, crossing wild
fjords and skirting the mainland. Along the shore at intervals little
clusters of fishermen's huts are seen, with a small sprinkling of
herbage and patches of bright verdure. As we glide along among the
islands which line the shore, we are pretty sure to fall in with one of
the little propellers, with a small swivel gun at the bow, in search of
whales. The projectile which is used consists of a barbed harpoon, to
which a short chain is affixed, and to that a strong line. This harpoon
has barbs which expand as soon as they enter the body of the animal and
he pulls upon the line, stopping at a certain angle, which renders the
withdrawal of the weapon impossible. Besides this, an explosive shell is
so attached that it quickly bursts within the monster, producing instant
death. A cable is then fastened to the head, and the whale is towed into
harbor to be cut up, and the blubber tried out on shore.
The objects which attract the eye are constantly changing. Large black
geese, too heavy for lofty flying, rise awkwardly from the waves and
skim across the fjords, just clearing the surface of the dark blue
waters. Oyster-catchers, as they are familiarly called, decked with
scarlet bills and legs, are abundant. Now and then that daring
highwayman among birds, the skua, or robber-gull, is seen on the watch
for a victim. He is quite dark in plumage, almost black, and gets a
robber's living by attacking and causing other birds to drop what they
have caught up from the sea, seizing which as it falls, he sails away to
consume at leisure his stolen prize.
Long before we reach Hammerfest our watches seem to have become
bewitched, for it must be remembered that here it is broad daylight
throughout the twenty-four hours (in midsummer) which constitute day and
night elsewhere. To sleep becomes a useless effort, and our eyes are
unusually wide open.
The Gulf Stream, emerging from the tropics thousands of miles away,
constantly laves the shores, and consequently ice is not seen. At first
it seems a little strange that there are no icebergs here in latitude
70° north, when we have them on the coast of America in certain seasons
at 41°. The entire west coast of Norway is warmer by at least twenty
degrees than most other localities in the same latitude, owing to the
presence of the Gulf Stream,--that heated, mysterious river in the
midst of the ocean. It brings to these far-away regions quantities of
floating material, such as the trunks of palm-trees, and other
substances suitable for fuel, to which useful purpose they are put at
the Lofoden Islands, and by the fishermen along the shore of the
mainland. By the same agency West Indian seeds and woods are often found
floating on the west coast of Scotland and Ireland.
Hammerfest, the capital of the province of Finmark, is situated in
latitude 70° 40´ north, upon the island of Kvalöe, or "Whale Island." It
is overshadowed by Tyvfjeld,--that is, "Thief Mountain,"--thus
fancifully named because it robs the place of the little sunshine it
might enjoy, were this high elevation not at all times intervening. It
is the most northerly town in Europe, and is about sixty-five miles
southwest of the North Cape. It is a town of about three thousand
inhabitants, who appear to be industrious and intelligent. Even here, in
this region of frost and darkness, we are glad to say, there are plenty
of good schools and able teachers.
From Hammerfest we continue our voyage northward along the coast. The
land is now seen to be useless for agricultural purposes; habitations
first become rare, then cease altogether, bleakness reigning supreme,
while we seem to be creeping higher and higher on the earth. In
ascending mountains of the Himalayan range, we realize that there are
heights still above us; but in approaching the North Cape, a feeling is
experienced that we are gradually getting to the very apex of the globe.
Everything seems to be beneath our feet; the broad, deep, unbounded
ocean alone marks the horizon. Day and night cease to be relative terms.
The North Cape, which is finally reached, is an island projecting
itself far into the Polar Sea, separated from the mainland by a narrow
strait. The highest point which has ever been reached by the daring
Arctic explorer, is 83° 24´ north latitude; this cape is in latitude 71°
10´ north. The island is named Mageröe, which signifies a barren place,
and it is certainly well named, for a wilder, bleaker, or more desolate
spot cannot be found on the face of the earth. Only a few hares, ermine,
and sea-birds manage to subsist upon its sterile soil. The western and
northern sides are absolutely inaccessible owing to their precipitous
character. The Arctic Sea thunders hoarsely against the Cape as we
approach the rough, weather-worn cliff in a small landing-boat. It is
near the midnight hour, yet the warmth of the sun's direct rays envelops
us. For half an hour we struggle upwards at an angle of nearly
forty-five degrees, amid loose rocks and over uneven ground, until the
summit is finally reached, and we stand a thousand feet above the level
of the sea, literally upon the threshold of the unknown.
No difference is observed between the broad light of this Polar night
and the noon of a sunny summer's day in other latitudes. The sky is all
aglow, and the rays of the sun are warm and penetrating, though a
certain chill in the atmosphere at this exposed elevation renders thick
clothing indispensable. This is the objective point, to reach which we
have voyaged thousands of miles from another hemisphere. We look about
us in silent wonder and awe. To the northward is that unknown region to
solve whose mystery so many gallant lives have been sacrificed. Far to
the eastward is Asia; in the distant west lies America; and southward
are Europe and Africa. Such an experience may occur once in a lifetime,
but rarely can it be repeated. The surface of the cliff is quite level
where we stand, and beneath our feet is a soft gray reindeer moss which
yields to the tread like a carpet of velvet. There is no other
vegetation, not even a spear of grass. Close at hand, in all directions,
are frightful fissures and sheer precipices, except on the side where we
have ascended. Presently the boom of a distant gun floats faintly
upwards, the cautionary signal from the ship now seen floating far below
us, a mere speck upon that Polar Sea.
The hands of the watch indicate that it is near the hour of twelve,
midnight. The great luminary has sunk slowly amid a glory of light to
within three or four degrees of the horizon, where it seems to hover for
a single moment like some monster bird about to alight, then changing
its mind slowly begins its upward movement. This is exactly at midnight,
always a solemn hour; but amid the glare of sunlight and the glowing
immensity of sea and sky, how strange and weird it is! Notwithstanding
they are so closely mingled, the difference between the gorgeous
coloring of the setting and the fresh hues of the rising sun seem to be
clearly though delicately defined. True, the sun had not really set at
all on the occasion we describe. It was constantly visible, so that the
human eye could not rest upon it for one moment. It was the mingling of
the golden haze of evening with the radiant, roseate flush of the
blushing morn.
After returning to Christiania we take the cars of the railroad which
crosses the peninsula by way of Charlottenborg, the frontier town of
Sweden. Here there is a custom-house examination of our baggage; for
although Norway and Sweden are under one crown, yet they have separate
tariffs, import and export fees being enforced between them. In crossing
the peninsula by rail one does not enjoy the picturesque scenery which
is seen on the Gotha Canal route. The railroad journey takes us through
a region of lake and forest, however, by no means devoid of interest,
and which is rich in mines of iron and other ores. As we approach Lake
Maelaren on the east coast, a more highly cultivated country is
traversed, until Stockholm is finally reached; a noble capital, and in
many respects exceptionally so. It is situated on the Baltic, at the
outlet of Lake Maelaren, and is built on several islands, all of which
are connected by substantial bridges. The city has a population of over
a hundred and eighty thousand, covering an area of five square miles,
and, taken as a whole, certainly forms one of the most cleanly and
interesting capitals in Europe. It is a city of canals, public gardens,
broad squares, and gay cafés, with two excellent harbors, one on the
Baltic and one on Lake Maelaren.
Wars, conflagrations, and the steady progress of civilization have
entirely changed the city from what it was in the days of Gustavus Vasa;
that is, about the year 1496. It was he who founded the dynasty which
has survived for three hundred years. The streets in the older sections
of the town are often crooked and narrow, but in the modern-built parts
there are fine straight avenues, with large and imposing public and
private edifices.
Stockholm is the centre of the social and literary activity of
Scandinavia, hardly second in this respect to Copenhagen. It has its
full share of scientific, artistic, and benevolent institutions such as
befit a great European capital. The stranger should as soon as
convenient after arriving, ascend an elevation of the town called the
Mosebacke, where has been erected a lofty iron framework and lookout,
which is ascended by means of a steam elevator. From this structure an
admirable view of the city is obtained, and its topography fixed clearly
upon the mind. At a single glance, as it were, one takes in the charming
marine view of the Baltic with its busy traffic, and in the opposite
direction the many islands that dot Lake Maelaren form a widespread
picture of varied beauty. The bird's-eye view obtained of the environs
is unique, since in the immediate vicinity lies the primeval forest,
undisturbed and unimproved for agricultural purposes.
Though Sweden, unlike Norway, has no heroic age, so to speak, connecting
her earliest exploits with the fate of other countries, still no
secondary European power has acted so brilliant a part in modern history
as have those famous Swedish monarchs, Gustavus Vasa, Gustavus Adolphus,
and Charles XII. The last-named monarch fought all Europe,--Danes,
Russians, Poles, and Germans,--and gave away a kingdom before he was
twenty years of age.
The Royal Palace of Stockholm is a very plain edifice externally, though
it is quite large. Its present master, King Oscar II., is an
accomplished artist, poet, musician, and linguist, nobly fulfilling the
requirements of his responsible position. He has been called the ideal
sovereign of our period. His court, while it is one of the least
pretentious in Europe, is yet one of the most refined. The State
departments of the palace are very elegant, and are freely shown to
strangers at all suitable times. In the grand State Hall is the throne
of silver originally occupied by Queen Christiana, while the Hall of
Mirrors appears as though it might have come from Aladdin's palace. Amid
all the varied attractions of art and historic associations which are
here exhibited, one simple chamber seems most impressive. It is the
bedroom of Charles XIV. (Marshal Bernadotte), which has remained
unchanged and unused since the time of his death, his old campaign cloak
of Swedish blue still lying upon the bed. The clock upon the
mantel-piece significantly points to the hour and minute of his death.
The life and remarkable career of the dead king flashes across the
memory as we stand for a moment beside these suggestive tokens of
personal wear. We recall how he began life as a common soldier in the
French army, rising rapidly from the ranks by reason of his military
genius to be a marshal of France, and finally to sit upon the throne of
Sweden. Bernadotte, Prince of Ponte Corvo, is the only one of Napoleon's
generals whose descendants still occupy a throne.
The shops on the principal streets are elegantly arrayed; there are none
better in Paris or New York. A ceaseless activity reigns along the
thoroughfares, among the little steamboats upon the many water-ways, and
on the myriads of passenger steamers which ply upon the lake. The Royal
Opera House is a plain substantial structure, built by Gustavus III. in
1775. The late Jenny Lind made her first appearance in public in this
house, and so did Christine Nilsson, both of these renowned vocalists
being Scandinavians. It was in this theatre, at a gay masquerade ball,
on the morning of March 15, 1792, that Gustavus III. was fatally wounded
by a shot from an assassin, who was one of the conspirators among the
nobility.
Norway and Sweden are undoubtedly poor in worldly riches, but they
expend larger sums of money for educational purposes, in proportion to
the number of inhabitants, than any other country, except America. The
result is manifest in a marked degree of intelligence diffused among
all classes. One is naturally reminded in this Swedish capital of
Linnæus, and also of Swedenborg, both of whom were Swedes. The latter
graduated at the famous University of Upsala; the former in the greater
school of out-door nature. Upsala is the oldest town in the country, as
well as the historical and educational centre of the kingdom. It is
situated fifty miles from Stockholm. It was the royal capital of the
county for more than a thousand years, and was the locality of the great
temple of Thor, now replaced by a Christian cathedral, almost a
duplicate of Notre Dame in Paris, and which was designed by the same
architect.
Upsala has often been the scene of fierce and bloody conflicts. Saint
Eric was slain here in 1161. It has its university and its historic
associations, but it has neither trade nor commerce of any sort beyond
that of a small inland town--its streets never being disturbed by
business activity, though there is a population of at least fifteen
thousand. The university, founded in 1477, and richly endowed by
Gustavus Adolphus, is the just pride of the country, having to-day some
fifteen hundred students and forty-eight professors attendant upon its
daily sessions. No one can enter the profession of the law, medicine, or
divinity in Sweden, who has not graduated at this institution or that at
Lund. Its library contains nearly two hundred thousand volumes, and over
seven thousand most valuable and rare manuscripts. Linnæus, the great
naturalist, was a professor of botany and zoölogy at this university for
nearly forty years. This humble shoemaker, by force of his genius, rose
to be a prince in the kingdom of science. Botany and zoölogy have never
known a more eminent exponent than the lowly born Karl von Linné, whom
the Swedes very properly denominate the King of Flowers. A certain
degree of knowledge relative to plants and natural history, forms a part
of all primary education in Sweden.
About three miles from the university is the village of Old Upsala,
where there is an ancient church of small dimensions, built of rough
stones, containing a monument erected to the memory of Anders Celsius,
the Swedish astronomer. There are also exhibited to the visitor here
some curious pagan idols in wood. What a venerable and miraculously
preserved old pile it is!
We return to Stockholm,--bright, cheerful, sunny Stockholm,--where,
during the brief summer months, everything wears a holiday aspect, where
life is seen at its gayest in the many public gardens, cleanly streets,
and open squares. Even the big white sea-gulls that swoop gracefully
over the many water-ways of the town--rather queer visitors to a
populous city--seem to be uttering cries of bird merriment.