LETTER 16.

To Miss Rivers, Clarges Street.

Silleri, Sept. 18.

Your brother, my dear, is gone to Montreal with Sir George Clayton,

of whom I suppose you have heard, and who is going to marry a friend of

mine, to pay a visit to _Monsieur le General_, who is arrived

there. The men in Canada, the English I mean, are eternally changing

place, even when they have not so pleasing a call; travelling is cheap

and amusing, the prospects lovely, the weather inviting; and there are

no very lively pleasures at present to attach them either to Quebec or

Montreal, so that they divide themselves between both.

This fancy of the men, which is extremely the mode, makes an

agreable circulation of inamoratoes, which serves to vary the amusement

of the ladies; so that upon the whole 'tis a pretty fashion, and

deserves encouragement.

You expect too much of your brother, my dear; the summer is charming

here, but with no such very striking difference from that of England,

as to give room to say a vast deal on the subject; though I believe, if

you will please to compare our letters, you will find, putting us

together, we cut a pretty figure in the descriptive way; at least if

your brother tells me truth.

You may expect a very well painted frost-piece from me in the

winter; as to the present season, it is just like any fine autumn in

England: I may add, that the beauty of the nights is much beyond my

power of description: a constant _Aurora borealis_, without a

cloud in the heavens; and a moon so resplendent that you may see to

read the smallest print by its light; one has nothing to wish but that

it was full moon every night. Our evening walks are delicious,

especially at Silleri, where 'tis the pleasantest thing in the world to

listen to soft nonsense,

"Whilst the moon dances through the trembling leaves"

(A line I stole from Philander and Sylvia): But to return:

The French ladies never walk but at night, which shews their good

taste; and then only within the walls of Quebec, which does not: they

saunter slowly, after supper, on a particular battery, which is a kind

of little Mall: they have no idea of walking in the country, nor the

least feeling of the lovely scene around them; there are many of them

who never saw the falls of Montmorenci, though little more than an

hour's drive from the town. They seem born without the smallest portion

of curiosity, or any idea of the pleasures of the imagination, or

indeed any pleasure but that of being admired; love, or rather

coquetry, dress, and devotion, seem to share all their hours: yet, as

they are lively, and in general handsome, the men are very ready to

excuse their want of knowledge.

There are two ladies in the province, I am told, who read; but both

of them are above fifty, and they are regarded as prodigies of

erudition.

Eight in the evening.

Absolutely, Lucy, I will marry a savage, and turn squaw (a pretty soft

name for an Indian princess!): never was any thing so delightful as

their lives; they talk of French husbands, but commend me to an Indian

one, who lets his wife ramble five hundred miles, without asking where

she is going.

I was sitting after dinner with a book, in a thicket of hawthorn

near the beach, when a loud laugh called my attention to the river,

where I saw a canoe of savages making to the shore; there were six

women, and two or three children, without one man amongst them: they

landed, tied the canoe to the root of a tree, and finding out the most

agreable shady spot amongst the bushes with which the beach was

covered, which happened to be very near me, made a fire, on which they

laid some fish to broil, and, fetching water from the river, sat down

on the grass to their frugal repast.

I stole softly to the house, and, ordering a servant to bring some

wine and cold provisions, returned to my squaws: I asked them in French

if they were of Lorette; they shook their heads: I repeated the

question in English, when the oldest of the women told me, they were

not; that their country was on the borders of New England; that, their

husbands being on a hunting party in the woods, curiosity, and the

desire of seeing their brethren the English who had conquered Quebec,

had brought them up the great river, down which they should return as

soon as they had seen Montreal. She courteously asked me to sit down,

and eat with them, which I complied with, and produced my part of the

feast. We soon became good company, and _brighten'd the chain

of friendship_ with two bottles of wine, which put them into such

spirits, that they danced, sung, shook me by the hand, and grew so very

fond of me, that I began to be afraid I should not easily get rid of

them. They were very unwilling to part with me; but, after two or three

very ridiculous hours, I with some difficulty prevailed on the ladies

to pursue their voyage, having first replenished their canoe with

provisions and a few bottles of wine, and given them a letter of

recommendation to your brother, that they might be in no distress at

Montreal.

Adieu! my father is just come in, and has brought some company with

him from Quebec to supper.

Yours ever,

A. Fermor.

Don't you think, my dear, my good sisters the squaws seem to live

something the kind of life of our gypsies? The idea struck me as they

were dancing. I assure you, there is a good deal of resemblance in

their persons: I have seen a fine old seasoned female gypsey, of as

dark a complexion as a savage: they are all equally marked as children

of the sun.

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