_Of the assembly held by our religious in these islands, where they
elected a provincial; and of other events._
[With the increase of their numbers, the missionaries felt the need
of electing a provincial. Accordingly a general assembly was called,
and in the early part of May, 1572, Martín de Rada was elected
provincial--"a person of whom we have said so much and of whom we
shall say much, and of whom there is plenty to say; for he was a
subject worthy of all things, and his memory is as green today in
the islands as if he were alive; and his achievements are extolled by
Spaniards and Indians, who hold his sayings as prophecies.... In this
assembly the priests had a vote, for as there were no fixed convents,
and all were participating in the same labor, the responsibility of
voting was divided among them all. The first thing that they discussed
after the election was the despatching of a religious to Nueva España,
and thence to España, to give account of the condition of the province,
and of their ministry; and to request religious for the continuation
of the work, and permission for our most reverend father to divide
the province among them with full authority of proceeding in their
elections and government, as in the other provinces which are not
dependent." Diego de Herrera was chosen for this mission, and left
Manila in the beginning of August, 1572. The new provincial set
vigorously to work, "correcting, if there were aught to be corrected,
anything in those first laborers that gave the lie to the perfection
that they were professing (and in religious any puerility gives the lie
to perfection, just as in a beautiful face any mark shows out, however
small it be). The religious are the face of the community, the most
unblemished of it, and all men are looking at them. Consequently there
must be nothing that gives the lie to it; for, however slight it be, it
must be immediately seen." Convents, churches, and houses, "not costly,
but with the moderation of that time," were erected. Medina continues:]
... A convent was established in the town of Taal. There is a lake
there, generally known as the lake of Bongbong. Its water is salt, and
so deep that the bottom cannot be reached in some parts. It is about
forty leguas in circumference, counting in its gulfs and bays. [56]
Shad are caught there, or rather tunny-fish, which, although not
like those of España, still approximate to them. The lake empties
through a river into the sea. When the Spaniards went there, this lake
swarmed with people. It is twelve or thirteen leguas from Manila. Its
chief town was this Taal, where the religious were established. Now
it is the principal convent, and has a stone church, but very
few people. [57] There lives the alcalde-mayor of La Laguna. And
there are generally Spaniards there who are making rigging for his
Majesty. This lake has its islets, especially one opposite Taal,
which had a volcano, which generally emitted flames. [58] That made
that ministry unhealthful; for the wind or brisa blew the heat and
flames into the village so that all that land became parched, and
the natives had no lands to cultivate....
[To remedy this Father Alburquerque built an altar at the foot of
the volcano; a procession was made thither by all the village, and
mass celebrated. So successful was this that "as yet no more fire or
smoke has been seen, and that island, about four leguas in circuit,
has fields and cows, and the inhabitants of Taal sow and reap their
harvests in their land." Other convents were established at Tanauan,
Lipa, Bauang, and Batangas, the first three with houses, the last
with a house and stone church. "But they have few people, [59] so
that the presence of the Spaniard must be a poison that finishes
them. And this reduces them more than their wars and slaveries did
in their heathenism. Of the volcano of Tlascala is recounted almost
the same thing as of Taal."]
The father provincial settled religious in Laguna de Bay, [60] which
is another lake not less remarkable than the one that we have just
described. Its water is fresh, and it is the largest lake known [in
the islands], for it must be more than fifty leguas in circuit. It has
its islets in the middle, some larger than others. It is exceedingly
stormy, for, as the water has but little density, it is aroused and
disturbed with but little wind, to the danger of those upon it. This
convent is one of our largest. It was the largest settlement [on
the lake]; now it has about one hundred tributes. All the Indian
women make hose, and they are the best that are exported. There are
generally two religious there, for that convent has its visita. The
church is of stone, and is very large, as is the house likewise. About
this lake are many convents of the religious fathers of St. Francis,
which district we assigned to them--although we could have kept it,
and assigned to them a district more remote. But in this is seen our
indifference, for we shared with our guests the best, which are the
districts nearer Manila. This lake has very famous baths of hot water,
one legua from Bay, which are a remedy for many ills. An excellent
hospital is established there, with a house adequate for the religious
who administer it. These religious are Franciscans, and they administer
this hospital, as they do others in the islands, with the charity and
love which might be expected from so holy religious. And although
brothers of St. John of God came to administer the hospitals, and
remained in Manila many days, and even years, the Franciscan fathers
were not willing to give up their infirmaries and hospitals, nor were
the former able to deprive them of these. Therefore, they returned to
Nueva España. And indeed, even if they who have the care of hospitals
as a duty [i.e., the brothers of St. John of God] had charge of these,
I do not see how they could have done it with greater charity, or
more to the universal satisfaction [than have the Franciscans]. This
lake empties by two arms of rivers: one goes to Pasig, our convent;
and the other to Taguig, likewise our convent. Lower down the two
rivers unite. Further increased by the San Mateo, which comes from the
uplands, and has very clear water, they make a very beautiful river
which empties into the sea, after flowing past the walls of Manila. It
is called the Pasig River from the chief village. But in order to drink
of the good water, one must ascend even to the very convent of Pasig,
where the water is found clear. There are many things to see along this
river. For both sides are lined with gardens and summer-houses, more
lived in than even those of Manila, for there is enjoyed the coolness
and freedom which the city does not possess. There are churches up
the river, some with seculars, some with fathers of the Society,
some of St. Francis, and some ours. For two leguas up the river [61]
is our convent of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, which is built of
stone. It is the most frequented house of devotion in the islands,
both by Spaniards and by natives. And it is enough that it has not
ceased to exist, because of the changeableness and fickleness of the
country. We may talk more at length of this holy house.
Religious were established in the convent of Pasig, of which we
have said somewhat already. It is about three leguas from Manila,
and from Guadalupe one legua farther on. Now it has less than one
thousand Indians in charge, and three religious; for it has a most
fatiguing visita, namely, San Mateo, where ordinarily is established
one religious with voting power. [62]
The father provincial established religious in Calumpit, one day's
journey from Manila toward the east (where the Tagál language is
likewise spoken), bordering the province of Pampanga. It is located
on a beautiful river called Quingua, of excellent water, which is used
by all the convents of that district. It was a very densely populated
district, but now it has but few people, for the Indians have not
remained there. [63] It had formerly innumerable _mosquitas_, [64] but
now few; and some sugar plantations, which were started by father Fray
Pedro Mejía, [65] and continued by father Fray Luis Ronquillo. [66]
If care were taken of them, the convent would be supplied with what
is necessary. It is a priorate and has a vote. Its Indians number
about five hundred.
The father provincial likewise established a convent in Lubao, which is
[in] the province of Pampanga. It is a most fertile land, and we might
say that it sustains the country, for it is all rice-fields. Hence
it is said, that at harvest Pampanga is worth little. The convent of
Lubao had many people, and hence they were able to build a church,
which is one of the best in the country. It is all built of brick,
made there; they also built a two-roomed house. It has generally two
religious, with six hundred Indians. [67] All Pampanga is like streets,
for the houses of one town are continued by those of another. One may
go to all its towns without getting in the sun, for now the bamboos,
and now the palms furnish very pleasant shade. From this place one
goes to Guagua, a short legua, past the houses; thence to Betis;
from Betis to Bacolor, the best of the entire province. Of the rest
we shall speak in their turn.
The father provincial established religious in the island of Panay,
which, as it was of the Bisayan language, he was not willing to
abandon. Those islands, although the first to whom the clarion of
the gospel was sounded, have been the ones that have remained most in
ignorance. I am unaware of the cause for this unless it be my sins,
for truly the most flourishing province, in regard to its missions,
has been that of Panay, as will be seen in this work. And yet, they
are as new in matters of our faith, as on the first day. I think
that their living in very remote towns conduces greatly to this,
and in not seeing the religious so frequently as the others do. And
although they have attempted to maintain some [religious] assemblies,
they have not retained them, for the persons who most strenuously
oppose their having assemblies are the encomenderos--because they
fear the diminution of their Indians, more than what they owe as
Christians. I console myself that another tribunal will judge them
with more rigor. But may it please the omnipotent God that human
selfishness be not repaid with eternal punishments; for they become
encomenderos more to deprive the natives of the good of the soul,
than to convert them and protect them in what concerns them so deeply.
The island of Panay is more than sixty leguas [68] south of Manila. The
same star stands over the bar of its principal river, the Panay, as
at Manila. Its other river, the Alaguer, is on the other coast. Both
have about the same amount of water, but the Panay flows more slowly,
and hence can be ascended more readily. It is also deeper, so that
fragatas can enter over its bar at full tide, for it has about one and
one-half brazas of depth. At low tide, not even the small vessels can
enter. It is two leguas from the bar to the town. The convent is very
large. With its visitas, it has in charge more than one thousand two
hundred Indians. The alcalde-mayor of that jurisdiction lives there. As
a rule, there are many Spaniards there; for at that port are collected
the vessels for the relief expedition to Maluco. Thence goods are
transported in champans to Ilong-ilong, where the port is located, and
where the vessels are laden. There are more than one hundred Chinese
married to native women in this town, and their number is increasing
daily, so that I think they will end by peopling the country. I, being
twice prior of this convent, learned somewhat of the Chinese language,
in order to be able to minister to them; for to do so in Spanish, or
in the language of the land, is the same as ministering to Spaniards
in Greek. The river banks above are lined with palm groves, and with
villages that are thinly inhabited because of the laziness of the
alcaldes-mayor. The latter imagine that, when their offices are given
to them, it is only that they may get money. They only take heed of
that, and prove rather a drawback than an aid to the ministry. About
two days' journey up the river, and on a branch flowing into the Panay,
is the convent of Mambúsao [69], a very flourishing house. Don Fray
Pedro de Agurto, first bishop of Sugbú, and a member of our order,
gave this to the order. He was one of the most learned and holy men
of all the Indias. Afterwards he will be glorified, for he is the
brightest jewel in this history, and has most honored the habit in
these islands. He was a creole of Nueva España, and one of whom all
those fathers can be proud. Ascending the river inland in Panay,
and leaving on the right Mandruga and Mambúsao, one reaches the
convent of Dumalág, after a few days' journey, more or less. It is
a very important convent, for it ministers to more than one thousand
Indians. There are two religious in each of these convents, prior and
assistant. Before arriving at the convent of Dumalág, the convent of
Dumárao, a very important house, has its river on the left. All of
these convents have their churches and houses finished--although in
wood, for it is not convenient to build them of other materials. Those
crossing to the coast of Otóng, where the port and fort are located,
pass through this district. They use a hammock [as their bed]; they
walk inland a matter of two good leguas. Then they stop in a visita
of Passi called Batobato. Thence they descend the river--or go by
land, if the water is low--to the town of Passi, which is located in
the middle of the island, with the most beautiful and suitable site
imaginable. It enjoys balmy winds, excellent water, less dense woods,
and less rain, so that one would believe it a different region. This
convent has a stone church, and has charge of about two thousand
tributes. The king grants it a stipend for three religious, and since
this had to be, as it were, the Escorial, not only of the islands,
but also of the country, it has been so unfortunate that scarcely
has a work been finished than it immediately is burned. I cannot say
in what this convent has suffered most, and that from the time when
they left their old site and moved to their present location. This so
constant work is the reason for this district not having more than two
thousand Indians, and I wonder that it has them. The river of Alaguer
[70] flows past the convent gates. By this one descends, leaving on
the right and inland the priorate of Laglág; [71] and still lower and
also inland and on the same side, that of Baong; [72] and reaches the
convent of Dumangas, which we call Alaguer. Thither went father Fray
Juan de Alba--as the reader will remember--and from that house all
the above were administered until they were made priorates. The bar
of this river is about two leguas from the town. Now the convent is
finished, but can sustain only one religious. The port and the fleet
have destroyed it; for these are the best people of the Bisayas. The
river, although like that of Panay, can not have much depth because of
its rapid current, nor can the tide ascend for any distance, however,
small boats enter it. These two rivers have one source. The Panay runs
northward, and this of Alaguer toward the vendaval. If one wishes,
he may cross hence, between this island and Himalos, [73] to Salog
(Jaro), a convent of the order, which was also assigned to it by
Bishop Agurto. It has in charge about one thousand Indians, but the
number is much lessened by the conscriptions of the port, which is
one-half legua from that town. From that place, following the coast,
one goes to the convent of Otóng, the chief convent of this island,
because it is near the village of Arévalo--once important, but now of
no account. The alcalde-mayor and overseer-general of the Malucos lives
there. Otóng lies about one and one-half leguas from the port. One may
reach it either by the beach, or by a salt-water creek which flows
through the village (and even to the very gates of our convent),
and then makes a turn, leaving the village an island. About two
leguas along the coast lies the convent of Tigbauang, which belongs
to our order. Today it is in charge of more than eight hundred
Indians. The capital is very small, for it enjoys the conscriptions
of Ilong-ilong. A matter of a short legua farther on is the convent of
Guimbal. Of it, one may philosophize as in the case of Tigbauang. The
latter has Hantic [74] as a visita, which was formerly one of the
best priorates, but often destroyed by men from Camucón, Solog, and
Mindanao, as it is quite outside the Spanish pale. It is more than
twenty leguas from its capital, and is visited with great hardship
and danger. Now since, without thinking, we have related all that is
to be known of the island of Panay, let us return to Manila; for I
think that something awaits us there.