At Lade, I confess I could think of nothing but "the

great Jarl" Hacon, the counsellor, and maker of kings,

king himself in all but the name, for he ruled over the

western sea-board of Norway, while Olaf Tryggvesson was

yet a wanderer and exile. He is certainly one of the most

picturesque figures of these Norwegian dramas; what with

his rude wit, his personal bravery, and that hereditary

beauty of his race for which he was conspicuous above

the rest. His very errors, great as they were, have a

dash and prestige about them, which in that rude time

must have dazzled men's eyes, and especially WOMEN'S, as

his story proves. It was his sudden passion for the

beautiful Gudrun Lyrgia (the "Sun of Lunde," as she was

called), which precipitated the avenging fate which years

of heart-burnings and discontent among his subjects had

been preparing. Gudrun's husband incites the Bonders to

throw off the yoke of the licentious despot,--Olaf

Tryggvesson is proclaimed king,--and the "great Jarl of

Lade" is now a fugitive in the land he so lately ruled,

accompanied by a single thrall, named Karker.

In this extremity, Jarl Hacon applies for aid to Thora

of Rimmol, a lady whom he had once dearly loved; she is

faithful in adversity to the friend of happier days, and

conceals the Jarl and his companion in a hole dug for

this purpose, in the swine-stye, and covered over with

wood and litter; as the only spot likely to elude the

hot search of his enemies. Olaf and the Bonders seek for

him in Thora's house, but in vain; and finally, Olaf,

standing on the very stone against which the swine-stye

is built, promises wealth and honours to him who shall

bring him the Jarl of Lade's head. The scene which follows

is related by the Icelandic historian with Dante's tragic

power.

There was a little daylight in their hiding-place, and

the Jarl and Karker both hear the words of Olaf.

"Why art thou so pale?" says the Jarl," and now again as

black as earth? Thou dost not mean to betray me?"

"By no means," said Karker.

"We were born on the same night," said the Jarl, "and

the time will not be long between our deaths."

When night came, the Jarl kept himself awake,--but Karker

slept;--a troubled sleep. The Jarl awoke him, and asked

of what he was dreaming. He answered, "I was at Lade,

and Olaf was laying a gold ring about my neck."

The Jarl said, "It will be a RED ring about thy neck, if

he catches thee: from me thou shalt enjoy all that is

good,--therefore, betray me not!"

Then they both kept themselves awake; "THE ONE, AS IT

WERE, WATCHING UPON THE OTHER." But towards day, the Jarl

dropped asleep, and in his unquiet slumber he drew his

heels under him, and raised his neck as if going to rise,

"and shrieked fearfully." On this, Karker, "dreadfully

alarmed," drew a knife from his belt, stuck it into the

Jarl's throat, and cut off his head. Late in the day he

came to Lade, brought the Jarl's head to Olaf, and told

his story.

It is a comfort to know that "the red ring" was laid

round the traitor's neck: Olaf caused him to be beheaded.

What a picture that is, in the swine-stye, those two

haggard faces, travel-stained and worn with want of rest,

watching each other with hot, sleepless eyes through the

half darkness, and how true to nature is the nightmare

of the miserable Jarl!

It was on my return from Lade, that I found your letters;

and that I might enjoy them without interruption, I

carried them off to the churchyard--(such a beautiful

place!)--to read in peace and quiet. The churchyard was

NOT "populous with young men, striving to be alone," as

Tom Hood describes it to have been in a certain sentimental

parish; so I enjoyed the seclusion I anticipated.

I was much struck by the loving care and ornament bestowed

on the graves; some were literally loaded with flowers,

and even those which bore the date of a long past sorrow

had each its own blooming crown, or fresh nosegay. These

good Throndhjemers must have much of what the French call

la religion des souvenirs, a religion in which we English

(as a nation) are singularly deficient. I suppose no

people in Europe are so little addicted to the keeping

of sentimental anniversaries as we are; I make an exception

with regard to our living friends' birthdays, which we

are ever tenderly ready to cultivate, when called on;

turtle, venison, and champagne, being pleasant investments

for the affections. But time and business do not admit

of a faithful adherence to more sombre reminiscences; a

busy gentleman "on 'Change" cannot conveniently shut

himself up, on his "lost Araminta's natal-day," nor will

a railroad committee allow of his running down by the

10.25 A.M., to shed a tear over that neat tablet in the

new Willow-cum-Hatband Cemetery. He is necessarily content

to regret his Araminta in the gross, and to omit the

petty details of a too pedantic sorrow.

The fact is, we are an eminently practical people, and

are easily taught to accept "the irrevocable," if not

without regret, at least with a philosophy which repudiates

all superfluous methods of showing it. DECENT is the

usual and appropriate term applied to our churchyard

solemnities, and we are not only "content to dwell in

decencies for ever," but to die, and be buried in them.

The cathedral loses a little of its poetical physiognomy

on a near approach. Modern restoration has done something

to spoil the outside, and modern refinement a good deal

to degrade the interior with pews and partitions; but it

is a very fine building, and worthy of its metropolitan

dignity. I am told that the very church built by Magnus

the Good,--son of Saint Olave--over his father's remains,

and finished by his uncle Harald Hardrada, is, or rather

was, included in the walls of the cathedral; and though

successive catastrophes by fire have perhaps left but

little of the original building standing, I like to think

that some of these huge stones were lifted to their place

under the eyes of Harald The Stern. It was on the eve of

his last fatal expedition against our own Harold of

England that the shrine of St. Olave was opened by the

king, who, having clipped the hair and nails of the dead

saint (most probably as relics, efficacious for the

protection of himself and followers), then locked the

shrine, and threw the keys into the Nid. Its secrets from

that day were respected until the profane hands of Lutheran

Danes carried it bodily away, with all the gold and silver

chalices, and jewelled pyxes, which, by kingly gifts and

piratical offerings, had accumulated for centuries in

its treasury.

He must have been a fine, resolute fellow, that Harald

the Stern, although, in spite of much church-building

and a certain amount of Pagan-persecuting, his character

did not in any way emulate that of his saintly brother.

The early part of his history reads like a fairy tale,

and is a favourite subject for Scald songs; more especially

his romantic adventures in the East,--

"Well worthy of the golden prime

Of good Haroun Alraschid."

where Saracens flee like chaff upon the wind before him,

and impregnable Sicilian castles fall into his power by

impossible feats of arms, or incredible stratagems. A

Greek empress, "the mature Zoe," as Gibbon calls her,

falls in love with him, and her husband, Constantine

Monomachus, puts him in prison; but Saint Olaf still

protects his mauvais sujet of a brother, and inspires "a

lady of distinction" with the successful idea of helping

Harald out of his inaccessible tower by the prosaic

expedient of a ladder of ropes. A boom, however, across

the harbour's mouth still prevents the escape of his

vessel. The Sea-king is not to be so easily baffled.

Moving all his ballast, arms, and men, into the afterpart

of the ship, until her stem slants up out of the sea, he

rows straight at the iron chain. The ship leaps almost

half-way over. The weight being then immediately transferred

to the fore-part, she slips down into the water on the

other side,--having topped the fence like an Irish hunter.

A second galley breaks her back in the attempt. After

some questionable acts of vengeance on the Greek court,

Harald and his bold Vaeringers go fighting and plundering

their way through the Bosphorus and Black Sea back to

Novogorod, where the first part of the romance terminates,

as it should, by his marriage with the object of his

secret attachment, Elisof, the daughter of the Russian

king.

Hardrada's story darkens towards the end, as most of the

tales of that stirring time are apt to do. His death on

English ground is so striking, that you must have patience

with one other short Saga; it will give you the battle

of Stanford Bridge from the Norse point of view.

The expedition against Harold of England commences ill;

dreams and omens affright the fleet; one man dreams he

sees a raven sitting on the stern of each vessel; another

sees the fair English coast;

"But glancing shields

Hide the green fields;"

and other fearful phenomena mar the beautiful vision.

Harald himself dreams that he is back again at Nidaros,

and that his brother Olaf meets him with a prophecy of

ruin and death. The bold Norsemen are not to be daunted

by these auguries, and their first successes on the

English coast seem to justify their persistence. But on

a certain beautiful Monday in September (A.D. 1066,

according to the Saxon Chronicle), part of his army being

encamped at Stanford Bridge, "Hardrada, HAVING TAKEN

BREAKFAST, ordered the trumpets to sound for going on

shore;" but he left half his force behind, to guard the

ships: and his men, anticipating no resistance from the

castle, which had already surrendered, "went on shore

(the weather being hot), with only their helmets, shields,

and spears, and girt with swords; some had bows and

arrows,--and all were very merry." On nearing the castle,

they see "a cloud of dust as from horses' feet, and under

it shining shields and bright armour." English Harold's

army is before them. Hardrada sends back to his ship for

succour, and sets up his banner, "Land Ravager," undismayed

by the inequality of his force, and their comparatively

unarmed condition. The men on each side are drawn up in

battle array, and the two kings in presence; each gazes

eagerly to discover his noble foe among the multitude.

Harald Hardrada's black horse stumbles and falls; "the

King got up in haste, and said, 'A fall is lucky for a

traveller.'"

The English King said to the Northmen who were with

him, "Do you know the stout man who fell from his horse,

with the blue kirtle, and beautiful helmet?"

"That is the Norwegian King," said they.

English Harold replied, "A great man, and of stately

appearance is he; but I think his luck has left him."

And now twenty gallant English knights ride out of their

ranks to parley with the Northmen. One advances beyond

the rest and asks if Earl Toste, the brother of English

Harold (who has banded with his enemy against him), is

with the army.

The Earl himself proudly answers, "It is not to be denied

that you will find him here."

The Saxon says, "Thy brother, Harold, sends his salutation,

and offers thee the third part of his kingdom, if thou

wilt be reconciled and submit to him."

The Earl replies, at the suggestion of the Norse King,

"What will my brother the King give to Harald Hardrada

for his trouble?"

"He will give him," says the Knight, "SEVEN FEET OF

ENGLISH GROUND, OR AS MUCH MORE AS HE MAY BE TALLER THAN

OTHER MEN."

"Then," says the Earl, "let the English King, my brother,

make ready for battle, for it never shall be said that

Earl Toste broke faith with his friends when they came

with him to fight west here in England."

When the knights rode off, King Harald Hardrada asked

the Earl, "Who was the man who spoke so well?"

The Earl replied, "That knight was Harold of England."

The stern Norwegian King regrets that his enemy had

escaped from his hands, owing to his ignorance of this

fact; but even in his first burst of disappointment, the

noble Norse nature speaks in generous admiration of his

foe, saying to the people about him, "That was but a

little man, yet he sat firmly in his stirrups."

The fierce, but unequal combat is soon at an end, and

when tardy succour arrives from the ships, Harald Hardrada

is lying on his face, with the deadly arrow in his throat,

never to see Nidaros again. Seven feet of English earth,

and no more, has the strong arm and fiery spirit conquered.

But enough of these gallant fellows; I must carry you

off to a much pleasanter scene of action. After a very

agreeable dinner with Mr. K--, who has been most kind to

us, we adjourned to the ball. The room was large and well

lighted--plenty of pretty faces adorned it;--the floor

was smooth, and the scrape of the fiddles had a festive

accent so extremely inspiriting, that I besought Mr. K--

to present me to one of the fair personages whose tiny

feet were already tapping the floor with impatience at

their own inactivity.

I was led up in due form to a very pretty lady, and heard

my own name, followed by a singular sound purporting to

be that of my charming partner, Madame Hghelghghagllaghem.

For the pronunciation of this polysyllabic cognomen, I

can only give you a few plain instructions; commence it

with a slight cough, continue with a gurgling in the

throat, and finish with the first convulsive movement of

a sneeze, imparting to the whole operation a delicate

nasal twang. If the result is not something approaching

to the sound required, you must relinquish all hope of

achieving it, as I did. Luckily, my business was to dance,

and not to apostrophize the lady; and accordingly, when

the waltz struck up, I hastened to claim, in the dumbest

show, the honour of her hand. Although my dancing

qualifications have rather rusted during the last two or

three years, I remembered that the time was not so very

far distant when even the fair Mademoiselle E-- had

graciously pronounced me to be a very tolerable waltzer,

"for an Englishman," and I led my partner to the circle

already formed with the "air capable" which the object

of such praise is entitled to assume. There was a certain

languid rhythm in the air they were playing which rather

offended my ears, but I suspected nothing until, observing

the few couples who had already descended into the arena,

I became aware that they were twirling about with all

the antiquated grace of "la valse a trois temps." Of

course my partner would be no exception to the general

rule! nobody had ever danced anything else at Throndhjem

from the days of Odin downwards; and I had never so much

as attempted it. What was to be done? I could not explain

the state of the case to Madame Hghelghghagllaghem; she

could not understand English, nor I speak Norse. My brain

reeled with anxiety to find some solution of the difficulty,

or some excuse for rushing from her presence. What if I

were taken with a sudden bleeding at the nose, or had an

apoplectic fit on the spot? Either case would necessitate

my being carried decently out, and consigned to oblivion,

which would have been a comfort under the circumstances.

There was nothing for it but the courage of despair; so,

casting reflection to the winds and my arm round her

waist, I suddenly whisked her off her legs, and dashed

madly down the room, "a deux temps." At the first perception

that something unusual was going on, she gave such an

eldritch scream, that the whole society suddenly came to

a standstill. I thought it best to assume an aspect of

innocent composure and conscious rectitude; which had

its effect, for though the lady began with a certain

degree of hysterical animation to describe her wrongs,

she finished with a hearty laugh, in which the company

cordially joined, and I delicately chimed in. For the

rest of the dance she seemed to resign herself to her

fate, and floated through space, under my guidance, with

all the ABANDON of Francesca di Rimini, in Scheffer's

famous picture.

The Crown Prince is a tall, fine-looking person; he was

very gracious, and asked many questions about my voyage.

At night there was a general illumination, to which the

"Foam" contributed some blue lights.

We got under way early this morning, and without a

pilot--as we had entered--made our way out to sea again.

I left Throndhjem with regret, not for its own sake, for

in spite of balls and illuminations I should think the

pleasures of a stay there would not be deliriously

exciting; but this whole district is so intimately

associated in my mind with all the brilliant episodes of

ancient Norwegian History, that I feel as if I were taking

leave of all those noble Haralds, and Olafs, and Hacons,

among whom I have been living in such pleasant intimacy

for some time past.

While we are dropping down the coast, I may as well employ

the time in giving you a rapid sketch of the commencement

of this fine Norse people, though the story "remonte

jusqu'a la nuit des temps," and has something of the

vague magnificence of your own M'Donnell genealogy, ending

a long list of great potentates, with "somebody, who was

the son of somebody else, who was the son of Scotha, who

was the daughter of Pharaoh!"

In bygone ages, beyond the Scythian plains and the fens

of the Tanais, in that land of the morning, to which

neither Grecian letters nor Roman arms had ever penetrated,

there was a great city called Asgaard. Of its founder,

of its history, we know nothing; but looming through the

mists of antiquity we can discern an heroic figure, whose

superior attainments won for him the lordship of his own

generation, and divine honours from those that succeeded.

Whether moved by an irresistible impulse, or impelled by

more powerful neighbours, it is impossible to say; but

certain it is that at some period, not perhaps very long

before the Christian era, under the guidance of this

personage, a sun-nurtured people moved across the face

of Europe, in a north-westerly direction, and after

leaving settlements along the southern shores of the

Baltic, finally established themselves in the forests

and valleys of what has come to be called the Scandinavian

Peninsula. That children of the South should have sought

out so inclement a habitation may excite surprise; but

it must always be remembered that they were, probably,

a comparatively scanty congregation, and that the unoccupied

valleys of Norway and Sweden, teeming with fish and game,

and rich in iron, were a preferable region to lands only

to be colonised after they had been conquered.

Thus, under the leadership of Odin and his twelve Paladins,

--to whom a grateful posterity afterwards conceded thrones

in the halls of their chief's Valhalla,--the new emigrants

spread themselves along the margin of the out-ocean, and

round about the gloomy fiords, and up and down the deep

valleys that fall away at right angles from the backbone,

or keel, as the seafaring population soon learnt to call

the flat, snow-capped ridge that runs down the centre of

Norway.

Amid the rude but not ungenial influences of its bracing

climate, was gradually fostered that gallant race which

was destined to give an imperial dynasty to Russia, a

nobility to England, and conquerors to every sea-board

in Europe.

Upon the occupation of their new home, the ascendency of

that mysterious hero, under whose auspices the settlement

was conducted, appears to have remained more firmly

established than ever, not only over the mass of the

people, but also over the twelve subordinate chiefs who

accompanied him; there never seems to have been the

slightest attempt to question his authority, and, though

afterwards themselves elevated into an order of celestial

beings, every tradition which has descended is careful

to maintain his human and divine supremacy. Through the

obscurity, the exaggeration, and the ridiculous fables,

with which his real existence has been overloaded, we

can still see that this man evidently possessed a genius

as superior to his contemporaries, as has ever given to

any child of man the ascendency over his generation. In

the simple language of the old chronicler, we are told,

"that his countenance was so beautiful that, when sitting

among his friends, the spirits of all were exhilarated

by it; that when he spoke, all were persuaded; that when

he went forth to meet his enemies, none could withstand

him." Though subsequently made a god by the superstitious

people he had benefited, his death seems to have been

noble and religious. He summoned his friends around his

pillow, intimated a belief in the immortality of his

soul, and his hope that hereafter they should meet again

in Paradise. "Then," we are told, "began the belief in

Odin, and their calling upon him."

On the settlement of the country, the land was divided

and subdivided into lots--some as small as fifty acres--and

each proprietor held his share--as their descendants do

to this day--by udal right; that is, not as a fief of

the Crown, or of any superior lord, but in absolute,

inalienable possession, by the same udal right as the

kings wore their crowns, to be transmitted, under the

same title, to their descendants unto all generations.

These landed proprietors were called the Bonders, and

formed the chief strength of the realm. It was they,

their friends and servants, or thralls, who constituted

the army. Without their consent the king could do nothing.

On stated occasions they met together, in solemn assembly,

or Thing, (i.e. Parliament,) as it was called, for the

transaction of public business, the administration of

justice, the allotment of the scatt, or taxes.

Without a solemn induction at the Ore or Great Thing,

even the most legitimately-descended sovereign could not

mount the throne, and to that august assembly an appeal

might ever lie against his authority.

To these Things, and to the Norse invasion that implanted

them, and not to the Wittenagemotts of the Latinised

Saxons, must be referred the existence of those Parliaments

which are the boast of Englishmen.

Noiselessly and gradually did a belief in liberty, and

an unconquerable love of independence, grow up among that

simple people. No feudal despots oppressed the unprotected,

for all were noble and udal born; no standing armies

enabled the Crown to set popular opinion at defiance,

for the swords of the Bonders sufficed to guard the realm;

no military barons usurped an illegitimate authority,

for the nature of the soil forbade the erection of feudal

fortresses. Over the rest of Europe despotism rose up

rank under the tutelage of a corrupt religion; while,

year after year, amid the savage scenery of its Scandinavian

nursery, that great race was maturing whose genial

heartiness was destined to invigorate the sickly

civilization of the Saxon with inexhaustible energy, and

preserve to the world, even in the nineteenth century,

one glorious example of a free European people.

LETTER XIII.

COPENHAGEN--BERGEN--THE BLACK DEATH--SIGURDR--HOMEWARDS.

Copenhagen, Sept. 12th, 1856.

Our adventures since the date of my last letter have not

been of an exciting character. We had fine weather and

prosperous winds down the coast, and stayed a day at

Christiansund, and another at Bergen. But though the

novelty of the cruise had ceased since our arrival in

lower latitudes, there was always a certain raciness and

oddity in the incidents of our coasting voyage; such

as--waking in the morning, and finding the schooner

brought up under the lee of a wooden house, or--riding

out a foul wind with your hawser rove through an iron

ring in the sheer side of a mountain,--which took from

the comparative flatness of daily life on board.

Letters from High Latitudes Being Some Account of a Voyage in 1856 of the Schooner Yacht "Foam" to Iceland, Jan Meyen, and Spitzbergen · 第 17 / 18 段