Much of Lockwood’s time was of necessity occupied in tailoring, and

he had become quite an expert. Service in the north not only

demanded much clothing, but the garments must be strong and warm.

Their supply in store being somewhat limited and not judiciously

chosen, particularly in foot- and hand-gear, all were from time to

time engaged in repairing old garments or making new. Rice suggested

a method of doubling the supply of woolen socks by cutting off the

legs of long stockings and sewing up the bottoms of the leg part.

For his proposed spring trip, Lockwood was counting upon a rig

consisting of two merino shirts, three flannel shirts, one chamois

vest, one vest made of two thicknesses of army-blanket, one woolen

Jersey, one swan-skin cloth over-shirt, one pair of merino drawers,

two pairs of flannel drawers, soldier’s trousers, cloth cap covering

head and neck with a skirt covering the shoulders, and a pair of

moccasins over heavy woolen socks—all to be worn at once, though

seemingly heavy enough to weigh down an elephant. The only clothing

in reserve was woolen wrappers and socks for the feet, and a

seal-skin “timiak” for exceptionally cold weather. Having suffered

much from cold feet, Lockwood had paid special attention to

foot-gear, but without great success. Frequently he was kept awake

most of the night from this cause. He noticed that the dogs suffered

more in their feet than elsewhere, and might be seen at any time

standing around with their feet drawn up under their bodies. The

feet and the nose seemed to be the only highly sensitive parts of

the Esquimaux dog, these being, indeed, the only parts not covered

with long wool. Lockwood never tired of watching these animals. They

were susceptible to kindness, though generally getting little of it.

They followed him on his lonely walks, and seemed grateful for any

notice or attention on his part. The young pups soon became docile

and tractable in harness, though a little more difficult to manage

than old dogs.

When the 1st of March arrived, all hands were engaged in preparing

for their spring work. First in order was the supply of their depot

on the eastern side, and Lockwood purposed leaving soon, to convey

several hundred pounds of rations to that place. As usual in such

cases, Dr. Pavy and two others of the party indulged themselves in

the most gloomy prognostications as to the future, declaring that

all idea of further explorations should be abandoned, and all their

efforts applied to depositing provisions down the straits to secure

their safe retreat in boats in August and September. Both

Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood did all they could to make a success

of this expedition, but the social atmosphere was not congenial, and

there was little enthusiasm manifested. How different would have

been this life if all had pulled together! Lockwood was impatient to

be away from this trouble and at work. If he could not go farther

than on his previous trip, he could at least try, and no man could

do more than his best.

On the 10th of March, Lockwood left with two sledge-teams of ten

dogs each for the purpose of placing supplies on the Greenland side

of the straits—he, Sergeant Brainard, and Esquimaux Frederick, with

one sledge; Sergeant Jewell, Corporal Ellison, and Jans, with the

other. After leaving Depot A, where they added to their load, they

had on each sledge about nine hundred and thirty pounds, or nearly

one hundred pounds per dog. Found much rubble-ice on St. Patrick’s

Bay, but, generally, the route to Depot B was good, and the journey

was made in eight hours from the station. Although they had a fire

in the little stove of the depot tent, all passed an uncomfortable

night, not only from cold, but from their cramped and crowded

condition. Their feet were higher than their heads, and the head in

one instance was under the edge of the damp, frost-covered canvas.

“Woolly” was found to be lame, and had to be left in a hole in the

snow-bank, with a supply of hard bread; Ellison was feeling badly,

yet said, “All right,” and insisted on proceeding. Seeing no

favorable passage from Cape Beechy, they concluded to go up to

Wrangell Bay and try the passage direct from there to Cape Brevoort.

To reach Wrangell, they had to leave the ice-foot and move out on

the straits, and soon found themselves in an awful mass of

rubble-ice like a vast plain covered with bowlders. A great deal of

chopping had to be done with the axe, and what progress they made,

was with half-loads. They encamped on the straits, and, while the

others returned for the discarded loads, Lockwood prepared supper,

succeeding only in making some ice into lukewarm tea, which, with

cold bread and meat, they hastily swallowed before creeping into

their sleeping-bags. They secured but little sleep, as may be

imagined when it is known that the thermometer registered that night

-48°. Under such circumstances, they seemed never completely

unconscious, and got up in the morning under the belief that they

had not slept at all.

Reaching the south cape of Wrangell Bay, they turned to the right

and went directly toward Cape Brevoort, still meeting with ice of

the most formidable kind, over which the heavily loaded sledges had

frequently to be lifted. Tired out, they camped at 5 P. M. in the

midst of the strait. The first thing to be done was to look out for

the foot-gear. This always had a lining of frost inside as well as

out, being wet from perspiration if not from leakage. Brainard

always changed his stockings for dry ones when he could do so, but

Lockwood and Frederick generally let theirs go, the latter from

indifference to frost-bites, and the former to escape the pain

arising from tender feet and fingers. By incasing his feet in dog-

or sheep-skin wrappings, he managed to pass the night comfortably.

Ellison, being really sick, was sent back to the depot to the tender

care of Woolly. After moving for a time over rubble, several of the

pieces of which came up to a man’s shoulders, they were greatly

encouraged by coming to a grand paleocrystic floe, whose gently

undulating surface stretched east, north, and south as far as the

eye could reach. This floe reminded Lockwood of a Western prairie,

its mounds and gullies making the resemblance more complete. As an

offset to this smooth way, they had to face an icy north wind with

the thermometer from -35° to -48°. Frederick got one cheek and a

finger frost-bitten, Brainard his face, and Lockwood his nose. Here

they put off the load, and at a run with the empty sledge returned

to their former encampment, where the tent was left standing, to

await the return of Jewell, who had gone back to Depot B to leave

Ellison with Woolly.

The next morning, packing everything on the two sledges, they soon

gained the smooth floe seen the day before, whence, detaching Jewell

for some stores at Lincoln Bay, which he was to leave at this point

and then return to Fort Conger, Lockwood, Frederick, and Brainard

proceeded across the floe with as much of the total loads as the

dogs of their sledge could drag. Coming within five miles of Cape

Brevoort, and seeing formidable ice in that direction, while toward

Newman Bay the ice was better, Lockwood concluded to head toward

that bay. They did so until 5 P. M., and then camped on the straits,

completely exhausted. During the night they had a violent south

wind, but they had campaigned too much not to be prepared for this

with tent-pins securely driven.

In the morning they made their way over pretty good floes with some

rubble, and reached at noon the whale-boat at Polaris Point, finding

the rations in her intact. Thence, following the snow slope along

the cliffs, and passing the point where Lockwood and Frederick had

spent many hours the year before in a snow-hole, they passed round

Cape Sumner through masses of ice in some places piled fifty feet

high, and finally reached the Boat Camp on Newman Bay.

Having thus provisioned the Boat Camp, they took a survey of the

routes back, and concluding that, all things considered, the one

direct to Cape Beechy was the best, returned by it with the empty

sledge, making rapid progress and reaching the west shore in just

seven hours. Notwithstanding they had no load, the passage was by no

means easy, for they had to pass over mountain-ridges, deep pits,

and gullies in the rubble-ice, where the dogs could scarcely keep

their footing. Lockwood was impressed, as often before, with the

power and endurance of the dogs. Ellison had left the depot, but

Woolly still remained, and there, also, they found Jewell, who had

been up to Lincoln Bay, where he found that the foxes had eaten up a

large part of the meat in _cache_ there.

With Woolly on the sledge, they returned to the station, meeting

Snyder and Whistler _en route_ with a pup-team and sledge, going for

Woolly. It was interesting and touching to witness the

demonstrations and delight of these youngsters on meeting their

elders, among which were the mothers of some of them.

Jewell said that, on his return to the depot, he put away his

dog-harness in one of the empty tents, and that when he awoke the

next morning he found nothing remaining but the bone buttons and the

whip-handles, the dogs having eaten everything else. Another

dog-story is recorded as follows:

“Milatook had pups the other day, and all were killed except one. It

was discovered yesterday in a very unfortunate condition, with tail

frozen hard and stiff, and legs in nearly the same condition. Some

of the men soaked the tail in water, and eventually ‘brought it to.’

It is a sad tail.”

XIV.

RESUMING A DESPERATE STRUGGLE.

On the 19th of March, fair weather came out of the north, and not

only cheered the hearts of the whole colony at the station, but

fired the desire of Lieutenant Lockwood for the new campaign, which

he had long been contemplating. After a consultation with Lieutenant

Greely, he concluded to start on the following day, or soon after.

As usual, some cold water was thrown upon his plans, one of the

critics declaring that they had experienced enough of that kind of

business; and another, that they had better be thinking of their

coming fate. But Lockwood’s reasoning was as follows: “Before I go

home, I must make another ‘strike’ on the north Greenland coast. If

the conditions of the ice are no worse, I ought to be able to

discover the northeast extremity of Greenland, and add several miles

to my latitude, although Lieutenant Greely thinks that my present

‘farthest’ will not again be reached in our day. I say nothing about

all this, however. _Act_ first and talk afterward has always been my

way.”

Lockwood was both hopeful and determined, and on the 23d he received

his final orders to the effect, that, should he not be able to reach

a higher latitude than he did before without undue danger, or should

he or any of his men break down or become dangerously ill, he was to

return forthwith. To this he replied that he knew not what might

happen, but he intended, if possible, to reach the eighty-fourth

parallel. In anticipation of his own birthday, and to honor the

explorers with a good “send-off,” Lieutenant Greely gave a dinner on

the 26th, and, thus fortified, they were prepared to move on the

following day, rejoicing.

Lockwood had two fine teams of ten dogs each assigned for his use,

and, as before, the faithful Brainard and Esquimaux Frederick were

to accompany him. Everything passed off quietly, without the

excitement or enthusiasm of the previous spring. They left the

station at 8.30 A. M., the advance sledge bearing the silk flag of

Mrs. Greely, with Brainard and Frederick the Esquimaux; the

supporting sledge with Jewell, Ellis, and Esquimaux Jans; and then

the pup-team and sledge driven by Snyder, and carrying Greely and

Lockwood. On reaching Watercourse Bay, whence they were to take back

a load of coal, Lieutenant Greely and team left them, after bidding

God-speed, and telling them to be sure and bring back the north end

of Greenland! Reaching Depot A in two and a quarter hours, they took

on two small seals left there, and passing Depot B, where they

obtained more provisions, they reached Cape Beechy at 4 P. M.—the

dogs quite fresh, but the men much wearied.

When they resumed their journey, it was snowing and the Greenland

shore invisible. They took a direct course by compass for Cape

Sumner over rubble-ice until they reached the first floe, on whose

hard, undulating surface they made rapid progress until they came to

rubble-ice again. Brainard, with axe in hand, went ahead, clearing

the way over impassable places, until the high cliff of Polaris

Promontory came in sight. Finally, both Jewell and Ellis suffering

from pain, when three miles from Cape Sumner they stopped for the

night, after making twenty miles, and all went into bags.

Moving early next morning with considerable wind, they got into bad

ice with cracks, down which some of the dogs fell and had to be

drawn up; but finally, finding a better route, reached the Polaris

Boat Camp, where, leaving some meat for the dogs when returning,

they continued on toward Gap Valley, generally over rolling floes,

and through rubble, requiring a good deal of cutting, tugging, and

pushing.

When three miles out they went into camp again, leaving Ellis to

prepare supper for all, while the others, with both sledges,

returned to the Boat Camp.

Leaving Brainard to get ready the alcohol to be taken from the

whale-boat, they kept on along shore to the foot of the cliffs and

the _cache_. Here they found the snow-slopes much worse than on

their last visit, but, the sledges being empty, they could have gone

along over anything except a stone wall, and even that would have

had to be very high to stop them. Fox-tracks were seen near the

_cache_, but they found it intact. The ice they had piled about it

was almost covered by the drifting snow. The contents of the

_cache_, about one thousand pounds in all, were put on the two

sledges, and soon after they went down a snow-bank so steep and hard

that the sledges took entire command, though all hands tried to hold

them back; but the dogs keeping out of the way, no harm was done.

This was at Cape Sumner, whence they returned to the Boat Camp.

Here, taking on the things prepared by Brainard, they returned to

the tents. After supper some hours were spent in getting ready the

rations for from twenty to forty-eight days. Jewell and Ellis were

both complaining; otherwise, every thing looked very promising.

On the morning of the 30th, it was clear overhead but cloudy around

the horizon, and a slight snow was falling. The loads were about

eleven hundred pounds to each team, but the dogs did admirably, and

good speed was made, the ice being covered with a very light depth

of snow. At the mouth of the gorge by which they were to ascend and

cross the Brevoort Peninsula, they reduced the load on each sledge

and started up this narrow, rocky, winding cañon. The snow was hard

and they were getting along well, when right before them appeared a

wall of snow, so steep and hard that Lockwood had to use his big

knife, to ascend. It was about thirty feet high. He went alone to

view the situation. A few yards beyond was a kind of ice tunnel

whose roof was about three feet high. Then came another high, steep

snow-drift with a snow-cavern alongside, probably fifty yards in

length; and also a few feet farther was found a deep pit formed by

the snow. Climbing around this and proceeding half a mile, he found

that the gorge made a bend to the east and became still more narrow

and rocky; but a side ravine offered a chance to get out of this big

gutter, up a long, steep slope of hard snow, three or four times the

height of the preceding drifts; and then Lockwood found himself on

the table-land overlooking Newman Bay.

The sledges with great difficulty gained this comparatively level

divide. The landmarks not being altogether familiar to Lockwood, he

took a long walk after supper to a distant ridge, where, seeing the

sea-coast, his way became perfectly clear. It was a lonely and

dismal walk, and the ridge seemed to get farther away as he

approached it. After more than two hours’ absence he returned to the

tents, crawled in alongside of Sergeant Brainard, and was quickly

lulled to sleep notwithstanding the snoring of Frederick. The horrid

sound issuing from his bag was as loud as a brass band at a circus.

The process of getting breakfast was to be preferred to that of

getting supper. When a man went into camp, after a toilsome day of

travel, and had helped to pitch tent and unload the sledge, it was

hard, while covered with frost, with cold and perhaps wet feet, to

chop ice and meat, and handle cold metal.

After an uncomfortable night, with the temperature down to -45°,

they started again. Proceeding several miles, they reached a narrow,

winding ravine, and finally a gorge, which they followed until they

came to the head of the wide Gap Valley, and thence to the

sea-coast. Turning east, they continued on a few hundred yards, and

were then stopped by the ice-wall, which crowded so closely to the

shore that the sledges could not be hauled through. Lockwood and

Frederick pitched the tent, while Brainard went ahead with the axe,

and, after much hard work, made a passage about one eighth of a mile

long through this place. They managed to worry through with half the

load by three o’clock, and, leaving Brainard to get supper, Lockwood

and Frederick went on with half the load for about one and a half

miles. The route beyond the bad place was excellent. Dropping the

load, they returned to the tent by four o’clock. Jewell came along

later, he and Ellis complaining again of their difficulty in keeping

up with the sledge when it went faster than a slow walk.

While approaching the cairn at Repulse Harbor, on the 1st of April,

Brainard’s sharp eyes discovered the site of the English depot of

rations, which contained Lieutenant Beaumont’s sextant, an English

flag, a cooking-lamp, old clothes, and some foot-gear. The road

before them was excellent, and they made good time, soon passing the

route of the preceding year, which reached the coast just east of

Repulse Harbor.

On coming near Drift Point, they were better able to see the

northern expanse outside the ice-wall which lined the coast and had

interrupted the view. Lockwood saw a good deal of young ice

interspersed with holes, and leads of open water. The main pack

beyond seemed permeated by leads of what had been quite recently

open water. Dark, misty “water-clouds” were seen everywhere

northward. The young ice extended along shore in both directions as

far as they could see, and out from shore a hundred yards or more.

Beyond it was the polar pack, broken into small floes and

rubble-ice, which had a glistening green appearance, as though

recently pushed up by the grinding of the fields about it; all this

was very surprising.

They made their way over the snow-slopes of Drift Point and beyond

until the near approach of the cliffs on one side and the ice-wall

on the other brought them to a halt eighty miles from Fort Conger.

Here they encamped with everything, having come thus far in six

days.

The ice-wall along here was from forty to fifty feet high. Outside,

there was a good deal of ice lately formed, with smooth floes. They

passed on near the foot of the bluffs, to see if there was any way

of getting along the cliffs, making their way between the ice-wall

and the foot of the steep slopes of the bluffs with great effort.

The _débris_ of stone, etc., from the cliffs above made the route

almost impracticable for a sledge. Before reaching Black Horn

Cliffs, they were obliged to find a route along the top of the

ice-wall, and thus got a short distance along the bottom of these

vertical cliffs. But now, from a fissure in the cliffs above, came a

steep drift of very hard snow, slanting down to the water at its

foot. To scale the cliffs by means of this drift was dangerous, as a

slip would inevitably have taken one directly into the water.

By cutting steps in the snow they gained a considerable elevation,

but, on looking round a point of rocks, the height beyond was so

much greater and worse than they expected, that they could not

proceed. All along shore was the crack of open water about a yard

wide, with young ice beyond, through which a stone or fragment of

ice might be thrown. Dense water-clouds appeared in many directions.

They returned to camp, and, after enjoying some tea, Lockwood gave

Jewell the tidal rod to make observations, while with Brainard he

started out again, this time to the south and up a stream-bed, at

whose mouth they were encamped, hoping to find a route back of the

cliffs overland. They soon found themselves in a ravine with high,

rocky sides, and encountered a steep snow-drift. Beyond was a small

hole in the snow, which seemed to be a cavern or grotto formed of

snow and ice, and probably running down to the bed of the stream—if

that may be called a stream which has no water. Beyond this were

exposed rocks under foot, and they saw ptarmigan-tracks, where the

birds had used their wings in getting down a snow-drift. Finally,

they came to a branch ravine from the southeast, the main stream

leading off toward the south. They turned up the branch, and kept on

for a while, when the high rocky sides seemed to come to a formation

of ice like a glacier, a hundred feet high, at least, and very

steep. The crest was perpendicular. The route thus far was difficult

yet practicable, but it was clearly impossible for a dog-team to

haul an _empty_ sledge up this place, and yet it was the only place

where there was anything else than an inclined plane of rocks. The

glacier was covered with snow, but in many places the ice could be

seen cropping out, the snow being only a thin covering. Some

ice-grottoes were also seen. They clambered up the rocks to the

left, and found themselves on a stony plateau. Off to the east was

an elevated ridge or knoll, toward which they traveled about a mile

and a half. On gaining it, the barometer showed an elevation of

thirteen hundred feet. Toward the south was a chain of mountains

running east and west, through the western extremity of which the

main stream-bed they had ascended seemed to break, about six miles

from the sea. The branch appeared to end at the glacier; but to the

east of it the land sloped north and south, and formed a

surface-drain which, running east, soon narrowed into a gorge, and,

bending to the north, reached the sea just west of Rest Gorge, as

well as they could make out. At the bend was a large formation of

ice or snow.

They returned to camp at 3 P. M., and found every one there walking

vigorously up and down to keep warm, or, rather, to keep from

freezing, the thermometer marking -48°. Jewell left his beat every

few minutes to note the height of the water on the tide-rod. There

was now nothing else to do except to get into the sleeping-bags, and

this in cold weather always involves a change of foot-gear. At six

o’clock Brainard had prepared supper, and shortly after, the advance

sledge-party was trying to sleep. Jewell kept on taking observations

until after eleven, when he caught the high tide. It was a severe

ordeal, but he preferred to do it, without assistance, as it was

much better for the record.

Brainard complained of want of sleep, and Lockwood’s rest was much

the same as usual—an uneasy, oppressed feeling of being half asleep

and half awake; every few hours getting broad awake, and wondering

if it were time to rise, or how much colder his feet would have to

get before freezing. Having decided to examine the main ravine

running south, Lockwood started from camp before eight, with

Brainard, Frederick, and Ellis. On reaching the branch, he and Ellis

continued south, and the other two went up the branch. Continuing

along between the high, rocky sides of the ravine, with abundance of

hard snow under foot, but some bad snow-drifts, they found a very

good sledge-route. After a while, they came to a huge formation of

snow, filling the whole breadth of the ravine, and sloping up—in one

place by a very easy ascent—to the west bank. Gaining this, they

continued on and reached a ridge some twelve hundred feet high,

which commanded a view of the sea, and of the valley to the south as

far as the mountains. The valley seemed to grow wider and deeper as

far as the mountains, through which it broke from a southwest

direction. No break or defile of any kind offered an outlet to the

east. Beyond the east bank was a wide plateau covered with stones,

and about four miles from the sea. After taking a good survey of the

country, they turned back toward the camp. Brainard and Frederick

joined them some time afterward, and reported that they had cut one

hundred and fifty-two steps in the side of the glacier to get up,

and found that the branch extended a short distance beyond, but that

a vertical ledge of ice some twelve feet high presented itself

afterward, and that, on getting beyond this, they found themselves

on a plateau covered with bare stones. Brainard thought the route

utterly impracticable, and went no farther. He afterward said that

they might be able to get round to Rest Gorge in two weeks, with the

sledges and loads, by taking the sledges to pieces, and carrying

them and the loads piecemeal over these obstructions. The young ice

seemed to be getting thicker, and they began to think they might get

around the cliffs after all. They had some tea and “pap,” and began

to calculate how many days it would take to reach Cape Bryant.

During the afternoon, a way for the sledge was cut through a low

place in the ice-wall, a short distance west of the camp, and two

days’ rations were also deposited in a _cache_ on the hill. A slight

wind blew during the day, and by eight o’clock all were in their

sleeping-bags again, excepting Jewell, who kept up tidal

observations until ten, securing a very satisfactory set, two high

tides and the intervening low tide.

Thermometer during the night -43°. After breakfast, Brainard went

down to the tide-gauge, and, coming back, reported that the rising

tide had widened the crack a little, but that he had fixed it by

chopping snow blocks and throwing them into the water. Being

unwilling to risk everything on the young ice, thinking that it

might break through, Lockwood put the five sacks of pemmican on the

sledge, and leaving the tent, etc., and the supporting sledge-party

packing up, he, Brainard, and Frederick started on. They reached the

ice with no trouble, and, proceeding out from shore one or two

hundred yards, turned to the east and went a short distance when,

Frederick seeming to think the ice all right, Lockwood sent Brainard

ahead with the axe, while with Frederick, having thrown off the

load, he proceeded back for the rest of the stores, so as to take

all on together. They had nearly reached the shore, when suddenly

Lockwood saw two or three of the dogs in the water, and knew from

Frederick’s tones that something had happened. The ice was moving

out from shore, and they saw no way of getting off. Lockwood called

for Jewell, and then leaving Frederick and his team to find a way to

shore if possible, started on the run to get within hailing distance

of Brainard. He was speedily overtaken by Frederick and the

dog-team, the dogs going at a fast gallop, and Frederick laying his

whip about them in all directions. Lockwood proceeded to find some

place to get ashore, but there was none, except at a little

promontory of rubble-ice, in front of the camp, and about two

hundred yards from the tide-gauge. Elsewhere up and down, as far as

they could see, was a continuous belt of water, every moment getting

wider. The ice had a motion toward the east, as well as out from the

shore, and thus kept in position a small cake of ice by means of

which Lockwood got on the promontory, and then directed the

movements of the dog-sledge which now came along. On the way back

they stopped and threw the pemmican on the sledge again, the ice

being perfectly smooth and hard. They first saved the dogs, pulling

them up one by one, and then, the little ice-cake seeming to keep

its position, a bridge was made of the sledge, and all the pemmican

saved. The ice continued to move out from the shore, until up and

down as far as the eye could reach was a wide belt of open water.

Before they left, it was in many places between one and two hundred

yards wide, and the ice at the same time moving toward the east.

They got ashore at eleven o’clock, and by 12.30 the sledge-tracks,

which had been opposite the tidal rod, were opposite the camp, a

distance of two hundred yards. While the sledges were being packed,

a seal made his appearance and eyed the party curiously. The guns

were not convenient, and he was not disturbed. Many water-clouds

were seen to the north at this time, and the whole polar pack seemed

to be on the move. They were all grateful for getting out of the

trap so well. Referring to their living on the moving floe,

Frederick made signs to suggest their eating the dog-pemmican;

certainly this would have lasted a long time had they not frozen to

death in the mean while, which they would have done very soon, as

they were without sleeping-bags or alcohol.

There seemed nothing to do but turn about and go home, and yet

Lockwood was extremely averse to the idea. The overland route looked

well-nigh impossible, or something at least that could not be

accomplished in time to allow them to reach the farthest of 1882.

Lockwood’s orders directed his return in case this contingency

should arise, as well as in case of any “signs of the disintegration

of the polar pack,” or in case he became incapacitated for rapid

travel. He walked up and down and thought of it for some time, both

Brainard and Jewell having declared that there was nothing else to

do but return. At 12.30, the teams being all ready, they turned

toward the west. As they came near the slopes of Drift Point a very

disagreeable south wind with drifting snow was met, which continuing

to get worse, their cheeks and noses began to suffer, and therefore,

at about two o’clock, they halted and pitched the tents, driving the

pins first, and raising the tents afterward. By this time it was

blowing almost a gale, and, the thermometer being very low, the tent

was tied up, and they prepared to weather it out, Lockwood having a

severe headache, which added to his tribulations.

The whole of April 5th was passed in the sleeping-bags, giving all

hands an opportunity to meditate on the _delights_ of an Arctic

sledge-journey. The time was spent in sleep, or in trying to keep

warm and sleep at the same time. During the day Lockwood counted up

the exact number of rations remaining, and, still bent on his dream

of the eighty-fourth degree, calculated that, if they could get

around overland to Rest Gorge in five days, they could yet go to the

farthest of 1882 and a few days beyond, provided the traveling was

not worse than the previous year. He announced his intention

accordingly. Brainard and Jewell were not hopeful, but willing to do

their best in attempting it. One great obstacle was the lame and

crippled condition of both Jewell and Ellis. The signs of

disintegration in the polar pack, Lockwood proposed to disregard.

The wind continuing to blow, it was noon before they started off

toward the east to reconnoitre; but, prior to this, Lockwood went up

on the high ground back of the tents and saw a great deal of open

water. Some time after starting, he stopped the sledges and went up

on another elevation to reconnoitre, feeling that, if he went on and

anything happened, his responsibility would be heavy, from his

disobedience of orders. From this point could be seen a belt of open

water running along shore, in both directions, for miles. In no

place was it less than two hundred yards wide, and from that it

increased to four and five hundred. Westward from the vicinity of

Repulse Harbor, it extended in a lead, growing wider and wider, all

the way across the straits, apparently to the vicinity of Lincoln

Bay, where it seemed to swing round to the north. This lead was

upward of five miles wide in the middle. Whether there were other

leads south of it, between Newman Bay and Beechy, could not be

determined. In the polar pack to the north were several small leads

and a great many dark water-clouds. The ice was again noticed moving

rapidly to the northeast. Beyond Cape Bryant, he supposed the ice to

be intact, as in 1882, but around the cape, north of Britannia, they

had then traveled on new ice, and, going out on the polar pack at

Cape Dodge, just this side of the farthest, had traveled on it for

several miles. The condition of this route now could not be known,

of course, but what they had seen made the prospect very

unfavorable. The signs of disintegration were unmistakable, and

Lockwood therefore determined to turn back once again. Near this

spot he remarked a very curious stratified floeberg. It was about

forty feet high, and a dozen or more horizontal lines were very

plain. The weather had now cleared up beautifully, and they were

soon at Repulse Harbor. Here they left a short notice of their

defeat in an English cairn, and, taking Beaumont’s sextant, the

English flag, etc., on the sledge, continued on their way to the

mouth of Gap Valley, where they went into camp, and remained long

enough to take a set of tidal observations.

The observations here were very satisfactory, and were kept up by

Jewell for more than twelve hours. Brainard, with Ellis and the two

teams and drivers, advanced the heaviest part of the loads _en

route_ nine miles to the shore of Newman Bay. Lockwood and Jewell

remained in camp, and the former found it extremely monotonous,

having nothing to do but to prepare supper. The only way to keep

warm was by constantly moving about, and, as a cold wind was

blowing, this in itself was not comfortable. The observations were

very trying to Jewell, continued as they were long after the rest

were in their bags.

On the 8th of April, they suffered more than usual with cold. The

sleeping-bags, frozen stiff, were a long time in thawing out after

they got into them. Dark water-clouds were seen along the northern

horizon, although elsewhere the sky was bright and clear. One,

particularly noticeable, to the northeast and near shore, looked

like a huge cliff in a fog. They also noticed a movement in an

ice-hillock some distance off the coast. It changed its angle to the

east during their stay, and suggested open water across their route

before reaching Cape Beechy. They left camp at ten, and found the

traveling very good—rather improved by the late storm. Jewell and

Ellis began to suffer again, and the latter was carried on the

sledge several miles, the loads being very light. They soon reached

the middle of the divide, and then the loads left on the shore of

Newman Bay, making very fast time through the gorge, though the

sledges had to be let down the snow-slopes and drifts by ropes.

After stopping some time to take on everything, they proceeded

slowly and reached the Boat Camp, and soon after Cape Sumner, where

they stopped to make tidal observations, Lockwood and Brainard

remarking what a particularly dreary and dismal place it was, and

wondering if they should ever see it again. It brought to mind the

trials and tribulations of the previous spring. Yet, in spite of

those trials, the novelty of everything, and the imperfect

equipment, that expedition was a success; and this one,

notwithstanding their experience and the completeness of their

arrangements, a failure. “Oft expectation fails where most it

promises.” Lockwood felt thankful that they had escaped from the

ice-pack, and from passing the forty-eight hours of the recent storm

upon it, living on the pemmican until finally frozen to death; but

the sense of defeat was predominant. They passed a tedious, cold

afternoon, but enjoyed a good dinner, having now an abundance of

rations of all kinds. It warmed them up and put new life in all.

Jewell saw, during his observations, a white owl flying overhead

toward the east.

The morning of the 10th was bright, clear, and calm. They noticed a

stratum of misty clouds, supposed to be water-clouds, hanging along

the foot of the cliffs on the Grinnell Land shore, and extending

from above Cape Beechy northward indefinitely. After passing through

several bands of rubble-ice with great labor, and yet without having

to double up, they found the tracks made on the outward journey, and

followed them continuously. This saved a great deal of time in

chopping and picking out a road. About noon they suddenly

encountered a very cold south wind. It seemed to come out of Devil’s

Gap, Polaris Promontory, and as usual carried along a lot of fine

drifted snow, continuing during the day. Their heavy loads made the

dogs travel at a slow walk, otherwise, no doubt, both Jewell and

Ellis must have been left behind or carried on the sledges. They

went into camp on a hard snow-drift.

After an uncomfortable night, with the mercury at 45° below zero,

they left camp and followed the old trail, as on the previous day,

jolting along with little difficulty in the rubble-ice, the dogs

doing admirably, bracing themselves to the effort at bad places,

like so many men.

They reached Depot B at 2.50 P. M., and pitched the tents, this

making the tenth time that Lockwood had crossed the straits above

Fort Conger.

The traveling was tedious and slow, but they reached Depot A at

noon, stopping only half an hour, and arrived at Fort Conger in the

afternoon. Everything there was quiet as the grave. “General Grant”

was the only one, man or beast, that knew of their approach and came

out to meet them. Even when they passed the windows and reached the

door, no one saw or heard them, and Lockwood walked in on Lieutenant

Greely like a ghost, and simply said: “Well, I’m back again; open

water at Black Horn Cliffs.” Some of his further reflections were to

this effect:

“Do I take up my pen to write the humiliating word _failed_? I do,

and bitter is the dose, although it is now a week since first I

tasted it. My return here, the inaction after two and a half weeks

of activity, and the monotony, not to mention the disappointment of

Lieutenant Greely, make it fresh as when first mixed. I tried

yesterday and to-day to induce Lieutenant Greely to let me go out

again, but he says this is our last year here, that I still have

last year’s work to fall back on, and, above all, that it is not

_prudent_. I have a scheme by which I could travel four days beyond

the farthest of ’82, and get back here in forty-four days, leaving

April 21st and returning June 3d—that is, provided an overland route

around the Black Horn Cliffs can be found, and provided the

conditions beyond are no worse than last year. My proposal was to

take the two teams, the two Esquimaux and Brainard, five sacks of

pemmican, one tent, two sleeping-bags, etc., and forty-four days’

rations for the party. The five sacks would last the dogs

twenty-three days, after which about eight dogs of the twenty would

be killed one by one, and thus the remainder fed on the return. We

should have to make long marches, it is true. Perhaps the refusal is

for the best, and I still have the country southwest of the head of

Archer Fiord to operate in; but I am reluctant to give up this

scheme for passing 83° 24′.” Everything at the station was very

quiet, and much as when they left, except that a party had been sent

for the boat at Thank-God Harbor.

XV.

ACROSS GRINNELL LAND.

While the disappointment which attended the late expedition was very

great, it did not make Lieutenant Lockwood unhappy or morose. He was

only convinced, perhaps, that when the ice and snow and storms,

minions of the North Pole, undertake to play the game of April fool,

they do it very effectually. The absence of so many of his

companions from the station had a depressing effect upon his

spirits, but as usual he prepared the report of his last journey,

and duly submitted it to Lieutenant Greely, all the while suffering

from the severe rheumatic pains which invariably followed his

exposure to severe cold. Many of the men were complaining, and the

weather outlook was not encouraging, and yet, after consulting with

Lieutenant Greely, Lockwood fixed his mind upon an exploration up

and beyond the Archer Fiord. His idea was to go west, at least as

far as the English had gone along the northern shore of Grinnell

Land, feeling that he could hardly fail of finding something of

interest, and would perhaps make important discoveries. Indeed, he

might be able to determine the coast-line on the west. As usual, he

wanted the company of Sergeant Brainard and Esquimaux Frederick, and

would be content with one dog-team and supplies for thirty days,

with a proper supporting party for two days.

His spirits now became better than they had been, caused chiefly, as

he confessed, by the glorious sun; and yet he could not refrain from

thinking of home, and again resorting for comfort to his old family

letters, which he had so frequently read before.

His late failure had been a disappointment to himself as well as to

Lieutenant Greely and the men. Some of them seemed down in the mouth

and gloomy, and, by way of cheering them, Lieutenant Greely informed

them that he intended to leave Fort Conger on the 5th of August, or

as soon thereafter as the ice would permit. The personal relations

of Dr. Pavy and Lieutenant Kislingbury with Lieutenant Greely and

himself were not what they should have been, and, instead of getting

better, these relations seemed to grow worse. Could he not have gone

abroad on these fatiguing journeys to escape such companionship, he

would have felt utterly desperate. He certainly would cheerfully

take any risks during the summer than longer endure the existing

personal troubles. Lieutenant Kislingbury’s only thought seemed to

be that a sledge-party should be sent down to Littleton Island to

have the ship leave her supplies at Cape Sabine, therein merely

reflecting the latest opinion of the doctor.

The start for the western trip was made on the 25th of April, 1883,

with two sledges, each drawn by ten dogs and carrying about one

thousand pounds of rations for thirty days. They moved along the

south side of the harbor over very soft and deep snow, through which

the dogs labored, yet made their way with full loads. On getting

near “Sun Land,” however, the snow became abominable, and the

traveling was as bad as they had ever experienced. After trying for

some time to go ahead, but sticking incessantly, they turned short

off to the left, and after a great deal of work reached the shore,

Brainard _en route_ falling down a crack, and Lockwood feeling

convinced that his feet were frozen, as all sensation had left them.

Reaching Black Knob Point, where there was a tent, they found it

blown down. After some delay in repitching it, they started overland

toward Sun Bay, through soft and deep snow, and soon afterward

reached Stony Cape, where they encamped, all the party being very

much fatigued.

Resuming their march, they found the snow not particularly deep, but

with a light crust, not quite hard enough to bear, which made the

traveling fatiguing. They stopped to rest every hour, the weather

being really too warm for comfort, so that Lockwood actually longed

for the cold and hard work he had experienced in north Greenland.

They reached Keppel’s Head in three hours, and found that _Mr._

Keppel had a very stony face, and not a handsome head by any means,

being a lofty promontory and precipitous mass of rocks, very grand

and imposing. In two hours more they reached Hillock Depot, and

stopped to get some corned beef left there by Lockwood in June of

the preceding year, the English rations left there having all been

eaten by foxes.

On reaching Depot Point, they transferred everything from the

supporting sledge and sent it back to the station, afterward getting

along with the whole load very well. The high, steep cliffs on their

right threw their shadows almost across the fiord, and kept them out

of the glare of the sun moving along the northern horizon.

Fox-tracks constantly appeared. These tracks were found everywhere,

and yet it was but seldom that the animals themselves were seen; and

in thinking of their habits, Lockwood wondered if they laid up in

store their surplus food against the days of want. A tame fox kept

at the station would always take what was offered; but, when the

ice-wall was pulled down, a large supply was found which Mr. Reuben

had abandoned on regaining his liberty.

Greatly enjoying the pleasant weather, after finding some Esquimaux

relics, and making a vain effort to surmount a glacier, they finally

reached the head of Ella Bay, where, after some delay in finding

freshwater ice, and snow hard and deep enough to pitch the tent,

they went into camp. Lockwood and Frederick then took the team and

empty sledge, and proceeded up a little water-course a few miles.

Found less ice and more stones than they expected, but, having

ascertained that they could advance up the valley with some extra

labor, returned. Numerous fox, ptarmigan, hare, and musk-ox tracks

were seen, but no game. Brainard became permanent cook, as the

difficult business of making observations devolved entirely on

Lockwood. The cliffs about here were grand, at least three thousand

feet high.

Lockwood was disappointed in getting equal altitudes of the sun for

longitude (time), the lofty cliffs shutting out the orb of light on

each side of the meridian; and yet he had camped away out, a mile or

two from the cliffs, in order to avoid this difficulty. This was one

of the annoyances he had frequently experienced. After lying awake

for hours, or taking his sleep by short cat-naps with one eye open,

and running out in order to catch the sun at the right time, and all

this after a tiresome march, it was very provoking to have “some

miserable cliff” lift its ugly head right in his way. To get the

local time _well_, it was necessary to take the sun’s altitude some

hours before noon, and then catch the precise instant of the same

altitude in the afternoon, the sun being nearly on the meridian at a

time midway between the times of the two observations. This middle

time needed certain corrections, and then, the watch or chronometer

being regulated to Greenwich or Washington time, the difference of

time, or longitude, was known. The little streams occupying the

valleys (or cañons, as they should be called) of this Arctic country

are utterly insignificant compared with the depressions themselves.

A great, ditch-like break in the country, from two to five miles

wide and ten to thirty miles long, the sides of which are vertical

walls rising thousands of feet, may be the bed of a little brook

that in summer-time can be readily waded, and at other times of the

year can hardly be seen under the universal mantle of snow. It was

one of these that they followed in its windings. Here and there they

would encounter very deep snow, and the sledge-runners would stick

on the beds of stone, requiring all their efforts to get under way

again. In about an hour they came to a long, level area, indicating

Lake Katherine, which Lockwood had previously discovered and named

when up near here in the launch, and then the view up the valley was

unbroken as far as the glacier. Its terminal face could be clearly

seen, looking like a little wall of ice three or four feet high,

upon which one could readily step. Back of this the surface gently

ascended until lost in the snow-covered mountain-side far beyond.

The whole thing looked like a mass of barber’s lather, flowing

slowly down a deep ditch. For some hours, Lockwood and Brainard both

thought there would be no trouble in getting sledge and dogs up the

_little_ face to the undulating and gradually ascending surface

beyond. After proceeding some distance on the lake, Lockwood stopped

the sledge, and with Brainard went off to the right, ascending a low

ridge that ran parallel with the lake and between it and the high

cliffs on the north side of the valley. They found the top to be

four hundred feet high, and beyond was a wide ravine running down to

the bay. There they saw the tracks of three musk-oxen that had

evidently passed along on their way toward the fiord; also many

tracks of foxes, ptarmigan, lemming, and hare. Probably, the chief

reason for seeing so few animals, though so many tracks, was that

the birds and animals (excepting the musk-ox) are all pure white in

color for three fourths of the year. One might _look_ at a hare or

ptarmigan a few yards away and yet not _see_ it. The lake called

Katherine was found to be three or four miles long. At its farther

end, the ground was quite bare of snow in places, and everywhere the

snow was hard and thin, so that they went along very rapidly. Every

half-hour, they thought, would bring them to the glacier, but the

longer they traveled, the farther the glacier seemed to move away.

When only a short walk from the glacier, as Lockwood thought, he

stopped the sledge, and with Brainard went on ahead. The _face_

seemed much higher than they had supposed it, but it was only after

walking a mile that they realized what it was—a wall of ice,

straight up and down, stretching a mile across the valley from side

to side, and nearly two hundred feet high.

After surveying this wonderful object, they returned to the sledge

and pitched the tent, seeing no way of proceeding farther; and there

they remained a day or two to get a good look at the surroundings

before deciding upon the proper course to pursue. A decided fall in

the temperature was quite noticeable, due, doubtless, to the

proximity of the glacier. They got to sleep after a while, and

during the day took a good rest, getting up in the afternoon. The

twain went again to reconnoitre, leaving Frederick to hunt, or amuse

himself in any other way he chose. They went to the glacier-wall

again, and followed along its foot to the south side of the valley.

This wall was beautiful and imposing. From the top, one third of the

way downward, the ice was of a charming green color, and looked like

glass; below this came a white surface, in which small stones were

numerous imbedded in the ice, with here and there streaks of a

brownish color, like chocolate ice-cream mixed with vanilla. A close

approach showed that it was earth. At the foot of the wall, probably

concealing a “terminal moraine,” was an undulating bank of snow, and

over the upper edge of the wall hung wreaths of drifted snow that

looked like the icing of cake. The ground for some distance out was

strewed with blocks of ice and stone of all imaginable shapes and

sizes. On reaching the corner of the glacier, a similar wall was

seen extending up along its flank, abutting against an inclined

plain of immense bowlders and masses of rock, the _débris_ from the

cliffs above. The angle thus formed was full of large blocks of ice,

many recently detached from the wall of ice. Traveling along the

flank proved so difficult that they took to the incline and

scrambled for some time over immense masses of rock and snow, often

across deep cracks and openings concealed by the snow covering them.

After gaining an altitude of several hundred feet, they reached

something like a terrace formation, from which they overlooked all

the lower part of the glacier. It presented an undulating and

gradually rising surface, extending up the valley fifteen or twenty

miles, or more. Just opposite to them, a branch glacier came in from

the north through a gap in the mighty cliffs. The slope of this

branch in places was very precipitous, showing great rents and

fissures. The surface of the glacier was free from snow, except,

here and there, in what seemed little depressions in the ice. There

was no way of climbing upon the glacier, much less of getting the

sledge and dogs up. It would simply have been ascending a precipice

of ice two hundred feet high. To get upon it had been their original

intention, although Frederick went through a pantomime at the time,

which they did not exactly understand, expressing how a sledge would

go faster and faster, and finally shoot over the edge like a

waterfall. Whether he ever had had such an experience in Greenland

he did not say, but he would never have had it more than once.

Seeing no way of getting on or along the glacier, except with the

greatest labor, Lockwood proposed to Brainard that they should

ascend the cliffs and get an outlook from the top. It did not seem

very far to the crest, and accordingly they started, but a more

severe climb they had never had, and hoped never to have again. It

was a very steep incline of rocks and snow all the way up. When the

barometer showed an elevation of twenty-five hundred feet, Lockwood

found himself on a ledge of rocks from which he could get neither up

nor down for some time. Beneath him was a steep surface of frozen

snow, falling on which he would have gone down-hill like an

avalanche. Brainard had inclined more to the left, and, by following

the side of a steep gully full of ice, had got ahead of him and out

of sight.

Finally, Lockwood reached what had long seemed the summit, and

stopped to rest. Presently Brainard came in sight, and said the top

was about a mile off. They then started together, walked over a

gradually ascending surface like the top of a vast dome, covered

with hard frozen snow and ice, and very smooth and slippery, giving

them frequent falls, and at 4 A. M. reached the summit and viewed

the country around for many miles. Being cold, they did not stay

long—only long enough to take bearings by compass of several distant

mountains to the south, snow and ice-clad peaks with many glaciers

between. To the west the country was less broken, and seemingly was

a lofty surface of snow and ice. They traced the glacier near their

camp about twenty miles toward the west-south-west, when it, and the

valley containing it, came to an end in a high mountain-ridge. This

wonderful feature of nature possessed great interest for Lockwood.

The face of the barometer gave an elevation of the mountain or cliff

on which they stood of 5,050 feet above the sea-level. As their tent

was only three hundred feet above tide-water, their climb had not

been a small one. They descended the mountain readily, although they

had to use hands as well as feet all the way down, in some places

carrying with them a land-slide of earth and stones.

They were constantly deceived as to distances and heights. A

headland on the fiord looked but a half-hour’s travel away, yet it

took two or three hours to reach it. So these cliffs, which looked

from below like an easy climb, proved the highest and steepest in

that benighted region. They got back to the tent after thirteen

hours of as hard work as they had yet experienced, and completely

tired out. They took meridian observation for latitude, and then

enjoyed a hearty meal of ptarmigan killed by Frederick during their

absence.

On the 2d of May, they left their beds and had breakfast at about

midnight. Found it snowing and unpleasant. Saw little else to do

than retrace their steps to Ella Bay, and thence proceed around to

Beatrix Bay and try to get inland from that place; spent the day,

however, in further reconnoitring, as Lockwood did not wish to leave

before night. Brainard went over to the northeast corner of the

glacier, but found no way of proceeding in that direction, and,

after carefully studying the surroundings, Lockwood could see no

means of getting on even with packs. Spent most of the day in taking

observations, etc. Occasionally they heard a noise like thunder,

caused by the falling in of sections of the great wall before them,

more formidable than any to be seen in China. The ground at the foot

of the wall was only the bed of a stream with blocks of ice, and

here and there a big bowlder. Everything being packed up and ready,

they started down the stream again, examining several deep breaks in

the cliffs to see if there was any prospect of _flanking_ the

glacier by means of one of them, but without success. There was no

way of getting up even a short distance, except by leaving dogs and

sledge behind and taking to the knapsacks, which was not then to be

thought of.

They got along without event and reached their old camp after

midnight, pitching the tent farther toward the north side, in order

to see the sun when ready to take observations. Shortly after

getting in, Frederick laid his whip down for an instant, and the

promising dog Barker gobbled up all except about six inches of the

butt-end in much less time than it takes to mention the fact. The

praises of Barker had been sung ever since his birth, and this was

only one of many of the tricks by which he proved his proficiency.

Frederick quickly made a new lash, however, and _gave it_ to Barker

on the next march.

On the 3d of May, as they pushed their way onward, they took a

series of angles and paced distances to get at the height of the

tremendous cliffs near at hand. The result gave an altitude of

forty-one hundred feet, which was almost vertical, the _débris_

extending a third of the way up, and not being quite so steep. They

then followed the north shore to Record Point, and thence took a

straight course for the head of Beatrix Bay. The cliffs were so

grand that Lockwood never tired of gazing at them, wondering how

they were first formed, and thinking what tremendous force of nature

had scooped out the awful chasm that comprised the fiord. These

walls, high as they were, were only one half or one third of the

height of the great snow-covered elevations back of and beyond them.

The appreciation of the grand in this region was frequently marred

by fatigue and hunger, and so it was on the present occasion,

Lockwood being glad enough when, at half-past one, they reached the

head of Beatrix Bay. In the valley which they now entered, they

concluded to spend another day. This one, like nearly all the

valleys in this region, was simply a cañon, a narrow, ditch-like

formation, walled in by steep, high cliffs. It was occupied as usual

by a very insignificant stream, the successor of some mighty mass of

water or ice which had originally hollowed out the great gorge.

This, and the head of Ella Bay, were the farthest reached by

Lieutenant Archer, R. N., who explored the fiord named for him to

find out whether it was simply a _fiord_, or a strait or channel, as

the Polaris people had asserted it to be. His Mount Neville,

thirty-eight hundred feet high, Lockwood looked for in vain as a

regular head to the valley, and finally fixed it as one of the

cliffs which, a little way back, rose slightly higher, to a dome.

Archer was a day making the ascent. Lockwood and Brainard walked

about four miles up the valley, and saw its termination nearly six

miles beyond, when they retraced their course to camp, greatly

disappointed in seeing no game, except two or three ptarmigans. The

valley seemed practicable for the sledge, and so, after considering

one or two narrow and rocky gorges which came in from the west, they

determined to follow it to its head (north-northwest), and then seek

farther a route in the direction desired, which was west or

southwest. As they proceeded, the weather became bright and clear,

and the mercury was only 2° below zero. They passed up the valley,

leaving in _cache_ for return two days’ rations. The dogs were in

excellent condition, and, in spite of stones, went along very well.

There was some ice in the stream-bed, and of snow quite an

abundance. Above the farthest reached the day before, a small lake

was discovered—a level expanse of snow with ice beneath. The lower

part of the valley had two distinct elevations, the stream-bed, a

very easy grade, forming one, while along the stream extended broken

terraces, termed shoulders, which from the cliffs projected out on

either side, sometimes beyond the middle of the valley, which was

from one to three miles wide. The breadth decreased as they

ascended, and after several miles it was but a few hundred yards

wide. At this point, they suddenly came to a place where the valley

seemed to run out, the whole breadth being a mass of rocks. Good

traveling was seen beyond, however, and, after working an hour

doubling up (taking half-load at a time), they got over, and shortly

afterward the real end of the valley was reached. They then turned

short off to the north, and, going up a steep, rocky ravine, about

midnight pitched the tent for further survey of the scene on the

morrow.

From this camp a low-looking “hog-back” was seen to close in the

head of the valley. They determined to ascend this and get a look at

the country, it seeming certain that the _big_ sledge could go no

farther. After making some coffee as strong as it could be made, and

drinking about a quart each, to bolster up their spirits, the twain

again started out, leaving Frederick to crawl into his sleeping-bag

or keep warm as best he might. They proceeded north up a rocky

ravine about a mile, and then came to a level plain stretching

northward, some half a dozen miles farther, to a line of cliffs

running across which seemed to indicate another valley or lake. To

the right were two or three high, dome-shaped elevations, and to the

left was Mount Easy, so called, afterward, on account of the ease

with which they ascended it, and in contradistinction to Mount

Difficult, the last they had ascended. They soon came to a pretty

little lake—Lake Carolyn—only a few miles long. This they crossed,

and, in places where the snow had been blown off, they could see

down through the beautiful transparent ice, seven feet in thickness,

even to the stones on the bottom of the lake near the shore. This

lake had an elevation of eleven hundred feet above the sea. In three

hours from camp, they reached the top of the mountain, an elevation

of 2,720 feet, and had a good view. To the south the country was

very high, and several glacier-walls came into view, probably

connections of the glacier above Ella Bay. The Henrietta Nesmith

glacier, the Garfield range, and the United States Mountains, were

plainly seen, and also the depression in which lay Lake Hazen. Snow

and ice in every direction. The cliffs to the north of the camp were

very conspicuous, but whether along a valley or lake they could not

make out. They stayed on top two hours, and then descended the south

side of the mountain through a deep ravine filled in places with

snow-drifts, and lower down with stones and bowlders. However, they

went down very rapidly, and got to camp in two hours. The cliffs to

the north seeming to extend to the west, Lockwood decided to visit

them and take that route. The only other feasible route was by way

of the ravine they had descended from the mountain-top.

Shortly after midnight of the 7th, Frederick had the dogs and little

sledge ready, and, with nothing upon it but the shot-gun, hatchet,

and telescope, they all started. The dogs were irrepressible, and

took the little sledge over the rocks in a way calculated to cripple

all hands, for they had to run alongside and hold on to the

upstanders to keep up. Occasionally a runner of the sledge would

catch under a bowlder and bring the sledge to a sudden stand-still,

the immense strain of the strong dogs threatening to break it. On

reaching the lake, all three of the men managed to crowd upon the

sledge, and the dogs went at a rapid trot over its smooth, level

surface. Beyond Lake Carolyn was a ravine leading toward the river,

and there the dogs took to a gallop, and in an hour they reached a

rocky height overlooking a long, wide valley walled in on the north

side by high, precipitous cliffs, and on the south by heights of

even greater elevation, but not so steep. There seemed no way,

however, to get down. The water-course from the lake here became a

narrow gorge blocked with large bowlders, the spaces between which

were full of soft snow. It was not inviting, but they tried it, and

in an hour reached the river-bed, the descent being most laborious.

Here they found themselves only four hundred feet above the

sea-level, and, turning to the right, went down-stream in a

northeastern direction, the barometer constantly showing that they

were going _down_-stream. _En route_ they passed over several small

lakes formed by expansions of the stream. In many places the ice was

very thick and beautifully transparent. Seven miles from Rocky

Gorge, where they entered the river, they suddenly saw four

musk-oxen. Frederick being very anxious for slaughter was allowed to

go after them, while Brainard remained to watch the sledge and dogs,

and Lockwood went off to the right to take some compass-bearings.

After a while he heard a shot from Frederick, and saw one of the

animals fall. The others did not seem at all frightened, but stood

by their dead comrade until Frederick _drove_ them away by throwing

stones at them. The dogs became greatly excited, and, going to where

the dead game lay—a second ox having been killed—they gorged

themselves with the entrails until there was danger of ruining their

own.

Having returned to the camp, Lockwood now projected a special trip

westward of twelve days, and prepared his outfit as follows:

Shelter-tent, sleeping-bags, axe, sextant, etc., telescope, shot-gun

and ammunition, medicine, cook’s bag, rubber blankets, small lamp,

knapsacks, snow-shoes, rations for three at forty-five ounces each

per day, and one sack of pemmican for dogs; total, 328¼ pounds. The

_large_ tent was left standing with the big sledge alongside and the

American flag flying from the upstander. They got off at an early

hour on the 8th with the dogs in excellent condition. Much work was

required to get over the rocks, but after that they proceeded

satisfactorily until near the valley. This was found to be quite

wide for a region where everything of the kind was more like a cañon

than a valley in the ordinary sense. Its width was two or three

miles, or perhaps in some places four, and the general gradients of

the stream-bed (Dodge River) were very slight, perhaps thirty feet

to the mile. Narrow, deep cuts in the cliffs and high ground around

indicated tributary streams.

Frederick having shot a hare, and gathered up the other food, they

proceeded on their way, traveling now over thick, clear ice and hard

snow, with now and then patches of stones. The valley seemed to come

to an end some fifteen miles up-stream, a range of high hills

running directly across it.

After various tribulations in exploring a side gorge, at midnight on

the 10th of May the party resumed travel up the valley. The

condition of the sledge-runners rendered it necessary to reduce the

weight to the least amount possible. This doubtless pleased the

dogs, for the driver had to restrain their ardor. Leaving the sledge

to pursue its way along the base of the hills, Lockwood ascended a

considerable elevation and obtained a good outlook over the country.

He was very agreeably surprised to find at the farther end of a gap

up stream an apparent prolongation of the valley in the same general

direction. On either side of this prolongation was a range of low

heights, while the intermediate surface looked very level—so level

that he took it for a long lake. To the left, just outside the

heights on that side of the valley, he could see at intervals a

glacier-wall, the north boundary of a great _mer de glace_. About

twenty miles distant, the valley seemed again to be shut in by a

range of hills, but over the tops of them, and at a great elevation

on the distant horizon, he saw what seemed to be a snow-bank. This

he made his objective point. Passing onward through the gap, they

came to a long and picturesque lake which was named Lake Nan after

an interesting niece; and coming to a place near the end of the

valley, a break in the low heights to the left revealed the glacier

they had before seen. Its surface was very distinct. Extending to

the south a few miles, it soon reached an elevation that formed the

horizon in that direction. It seemed a vast undulating surface, and,

as was afterward discovered, is the backbone of Grinnell Land. The

wall of the glacier near which they camped presented a vertical face

of solid ice 140 feet high. At intervals they heard the sound of

falling ice—small fragments which became detached and dropped to the

base. The altitude of this camp above the sea-level was found to be

1,240 feet, and of Lake Nan 920 feet; that of their last camp was

685 feet, and of the first camp in the valley, 420 feet.

Passing onward, they crossed several small lakes close along the

wall, with brooks emptying into them from the north. In a few hours

they were on the divide, the surface to the north having more slope

than that on the other side. The summit gave an elevation by

barometer of 2,610 feet, about 400 feet higher than where they left

the wall. They had an extensive view to the east, and could see

Dodge River as far as they had explored it, also Mount Easy and the

country adjacent. To the southeast, south, and southwest, was seen

the glacier, which was named after Agassiz. It formed the horizon

for half a dozen miles in these directions. All the ice-capped

country and glaciers seen from the former camps were found to be

connected with, and to form a part of this one glacier. Toward the

north, the country had comparatively little snow. Presently they

came in view of a mountain-peak toward the northwest, not many miles

distant, which was recognized as Mount Arthur, the farthest point

reached by Lieutenant Greely during the previous year. Away beyond

it were seen very distinctly the United States and Garfield

Mountains. Just to the west of Mount Arthur, they discovered a large

lake, which Lockwood named Lake Fletcher. They were now on a surface

rapidly sloping to the west. Some miles distant in this direction

appeared a broken range of cliffs and mountains, and between their

stand-point and these mountains was a wide valley, connected by a

stream with Lake Fletcher, and a small lake, close to the Chinese

Wall, which they called Lake Harry, the latter having an elevation

of 1,320 feet. They crossed Lake Harry, and beyond it came to

another called Lake Bessie, having an elevation of 1,630 feet, and

covered with deep snow.

Reaching the cliffs to the west, they found the descent exceedingly

precipitous and rugged. No other passage offered than that through a

gorge which was filled with ice and hard snow, whose surface was

almost perpendicular. As this was the only passage, they went into

camp to devise ways and means. Next morning, Lockwood attached all

the ropes he had, including dog-traces, to the sledge, and while he

rode to guide caused the others to ease down the sledge.

Unfortunately, the rope was too short, and those at the top let go.

Gravity carried the sledge and rider down the foot of the slope, now

somewhat reduced, with fearful rapidity, till they brought up

against rocks covered with snow, fortunately without serious damage.

The other men and dogs got down as best they could, the former

digging footholds as they progressed.

Further descending the cañon, they came to another glacier

stretching entirely across their way, and, as it seemed impossible

to surmount it or the walls on either side, they came to a halt and

enjoyed a night of rest. The next day they pushed on, though

troubled with snow-blindness, and, overcoming the obstacle of the

previous day, crossed a lake and encamped on its farther end. On the

following day, after passing through a gorge, the outlet of the

lake, between high cliffs, they were surprised to see a number of

floebergs similar in every respect to the floebergs of the east

Grinnell coast. At the same time they found the water to be _salt_,

and saw the fresh tracks of a bear. These facts convinced Lockwood

that they were near the western sea, probably at the head of a

fiord. This soon became still more apparent. Here they also saw

another glacier coming in some miles west of the last. They crossed

a crack of open water, formed by the tide, and found themselves on

well-recognized floe-ice, quite level but covered in places with

deep snow. Ahead of them, twenty miles distant, on the opposite side

of the fiord, was a bold headland, and toward this they now directed

their course. This fiord, which Lockwood named after Lieutenant

Greely, separated at its head into two bays. These he called, after

Greely’s daughters, Adola and Antoinette. The latter bay they were

now crossing, while they bore away to the north. It had become very

foggy, and was snowing and blowing hard. When some miles out they

crossed other bear-tracks, and finally reached the cape for which

they had been striving. Here the south shore of the fiord bent off

toward the west-southwest being very wide and walled in on all sides

by steep cliffs broken in a few places by branch fiords or bays.

They encamped at the cape on the 13th, had supper, and soon turned

in to sleep and fast as long as possible, or until the storm abated,

as the party was now reduced to what they called a starvation

allowance. There was nothing to do but to make observations when the

sun appeared.

The mouth of the fiord at the north side was found to be about forty

miles off, but the snow was deep and soft, and they could not

attempt it without rations, all of which was extremely provoking.

The sun became dimly visible through a snow-storm, looking like a

grease-spot in the sky; but, notwithstanding, observations were

attempted for latitude and longitude, and many compass-bearings were

taken. At times everything was shut out of sight excepting the

nearest cliff. Brainard feared they would have a very hard time in

getting back, and Frederick evidently thought he was a long distance

from Fort Conger, seeming rather “down in the mouth.”

Soon after breakfast on the 15th, Lockwood and Brainard started to

ascend the cliffs near by, the weather having partially cleared.

They did so by means of a ravine opposite the camp, and had hardly

reached the top before the snow began to fall again, and the wind to

blow from the east; but, notwithstanding, they saw a large glacier

to the south twenty or thirty miles away, and another to the

northwest at about the same distance. The first was apparently an

offshoot of the great “Chinese Wall” already mentioned. They saw

also a lofty range of mountains far to the north, running generally

parallel with the fiord. The cliffs to the west shut out the mouth

of the fiord, and, before they could get far enough in that

direction to see over them, the coming storm obscured almost

everything. These cliffs were 2,140 feet high by the barometer, and

almost vertical. The driving snow now became very uncomfortable,

and, after going three miles westward, they concluded to return. _En

route_, they found a number of fossils of what seemed to be trees,

snakes, or fishes, Brainard being the first to notice them. They

also saw a ptarmigan, an owl, and some snow-buntings, these being

the only living objects observed. Reached the tent after six hours’

absence, and found Frederick tramping around in the snow, not

knowing what to do with himself. After supper, all three of the

party with the sledge and dogs went an hour’s journey toward the

opposite shore of the fiord, ten miles away. The sky was partially

clear, and they got a very good view down the fiord, the telescope

bringing into view another cape (Cape Lockwood). Between that and

the cape on the north side (Cape Brainard), they failed to see any

land, though they examined long and carefully with the telescope.

The fiord between those two capes was very wide. Several branch

fiords, or what appeared to be such, were noticed. Cape Lockwood

seemed to be on the farther side of one of these, or on an island.

The country on both sides of the fiord was very elevated, that on

the north side much broken, and that on the south, away from the

fiord, apparently an ice-clad surface rising into immense, dome-like

undulations against the horizon.

After a meager breakfast, they started on their return, finding the

snow very deep and soft. The effect of short rations on the dogs was

noticed. They saw two seals lying on the ice, which Frederick tried

hard to shoot, but in vain. Lockwood was especially anxious to get a

seal, for it looked as if they would have to kill one dog to save

the remainder. After much trouble for want of food, they resumed

their journey on the 17th, verifying at various points the

observations that had been previously made in regard to the great

ice-wall and the lake over which they had already passed.

On reaching the end of the lake, they began the ascent of the

ravine. The snow at the head of the ravine was very soft and deep,

and they had hard work to get through it. Arriving at the big

snow-drift which they had descended with so much difficulty and

danger, it became a question how to ascend, but they managed it by

first cutting some steps and getting the dogs up, and then,

attaching them by long lines to the sledge below, men and dogs

together pulled the load up the almost vertical face. The party went

into camp at the old place, and decided to kill one of the dogs, yet

very reluctantly, Frederick opposing it. Brainard had suggested

White Kooney, but Frederick named Button, a young dog. Button had

eaten up his harness that morning, and this decided his fate. He was

shot by Frederick, and soon the carcass was skinned and presented to

his brethren. Old Howler at once seized a hind-quarter, but the

others did nothing more than smell the meat. They walked around it

in a reflective mood, debating whether to yield to their hunger or

to their repugnance. When the party awoke next morning, nothing

remained of poor Button but some of the larger bones.

On the 18th, Lockwood and Brainard ascended a neighboring mountain

and got a look at the country. The ascent was easy and they gained

the top in a short time; altitude, 2,008 feet. From this point they

could see the “Chinese Wall” stretching off to the southwest forty

miles, over hills and dales, as far as the glacier south of Fossil

Mountain, although Lockwood could not recognize that particular

glacier. The glaciers at the two ends of the lake, near Greely

Fiord, were readily seen to be offshoots of the greater one, whose

surface toward the south could be seen for several miles. In that

direction, Lockwood took the bearings of several ice-capped

mountains, one, as he thought, identical with a very high mountain

seen to the south from Antoinette Bay. The “Chinese Wall” had the

same general aspect everywhere—a vertical face of pure white or

green ice upward of two hundred feet high, and extending across the

country in a fashion he could liken to nothing else.

From here Lockwood made a short excursion by himself to Lake Harry,

discovered a number of other small lakes, and obtained the altitude

of several localities. He returned to camp only to find the dogs in

a bad way for food, and a scarcity for himself and men. Resuming

their course the next morning, after the dog Howler had performed

the remarkable feat of stealing a piece of meat when it was cooking

on the alcohol-stove, they passed many of the localities they had

seen before, but in some cases hardly recognized them on account of

the flying snow. Making two marches in twenty-four hours, they

reached their first camp, and found the tent blown down, but the big

sledge in its position, with the American flag flying over it as

gayly as if in a pleasant and genial clime. The dogs were gratified

with a good feast of pemmican, and the men themselves found it

delightful, once more to have a full supply of food.

Their next move was for Archer Fiord, by way of Beatrix Bay and

Record Point. They crossed another lake, where, as once before, they

could see the bottom through ice that was seven feet in thickness,

having revisited the north side of Musk-ox Valley, which was

separated from the lake by a very low and narrow divide. Dodge River

was seen bending off to the northeast toward Howgate Fiord. The

surroundings were very picturesque, but barren and desolate in the

extreme. They saw no signs of game, and even the poor, stunted

vegetation of the region was wanting. Rocks and snow, with stretches

of bare ground, composed the prospect.

The lake alluded to above was about twelve miles long—a considerable

sheet of water—and, no doubt, in summer would be an interesting

place to visit, as places go in the Arctic regions.

After camping they proceeded along to the east of Murray Island, the

weather cloudy and calm. Depot Point was revisited, to look for the

English rations, but nothing found.

Having killed a seal, they took the meat and blubber along, and

camped about ten miles from Bulley’s Lump, where they had a good

feast of meat and liver. The latter was greatly relished, Brainard

making it into many dishes.

On the 24th, they enjoyed their breakfast at midnight, Lockwood

calling it a real _midnight mass_, as it was a black mass of

seal-liver, English meat, corned beef, potatoes, and hard bread, all

cooked together in one stew which was very good, notwithstanding its

miscellaneous character.

The comments of Lockwood, in regard to the expedition, and how

matters were at the station, were as follow:

“No such word as ‘failed’ to write this time, I am thankful to say,

but the happy reflection is mine that I accomplished more than any

one expected, and more than I myself dared hope—the discovery of the

western sea, and hence the western coast-line of Grinnell Land. I

have now the rather ponderous task of preparing a report, making a

map, and writing out this journal from my notes. Tidal observations

have been taken at Capes Baird, Distant, and Beechy, simultaneously,

showing that the tides arrive at these places in the order named.

This is very singular, as the previous expeditions into these parts

established (?) the tides as coming from the north. This agrees,

however, with the order of their arrival at Cape Sumner, Gap Valley,

and Black Horn Cliffs, where I took observations in April. No more

musk-ox meat left; it ran out on the 20th inst., and hunting-parties

sent out April 25th saw nothing. I surmised as much, from the

absence of game on my trip, though Brainard did not agree with me.

Two seals have been shot, but only one secured.

“I find the social relations of our room not improved—rather worse

than better. Dr. P., though he shook hands and asked me several

questions as to my trip, relapsed into silence, which he seldom

breaks. Lieutenant K. had but one question to ask. I often contrast

ours with the pleasant relations of the English officers when here,

and think how much happier we should be in following their example.

As it is, I soon relapse into _ennui_ and apathy. A sledge-journey,

with all its trials, is preferable to this. I view those ahead of us

with indifference, as it will rid me of this forced association.

Another winter would render me a maniac, or put me under a cairn.

“The spirits of the men seem good. The sun has revived them. Merry

groups may be seen at any time on the sunny sides of the house.

“How often do I think of home, which now seems to me like a series

of pictures or objects long since seen! how often of my dear father,

whom may a kind Providence spare for many, many years!

“Both Brainard and I lost a score of pounds weight on our late trip;

but we are rapidly regaining our avoirdupois. My appetite is

frightful, and nothing comes amiss. I want to eat every three or

four hours. Fortunately, we have a supply of musk-ox beef on hand,

having killed three recently aggregating four hundred pounds, to

which are added many water and other fowl daily brought in. There

was felt at one time some apprehension that our resource in this

respect had disappeared, and fears were entertained of scurvy. The

men seem to have fared so well that their appetites have become

dainty. One would suppose that pork and beans were not staples at

our army posts.

“Israel makes my _farthest_ of the last trip, latitude 80° 47´,

longitude 88° 29´. Hence my explorations extend over 2½° of latitude

and 38° of longitude. Have plotted my western journey, and find that

my farthest carries me far off the English map. I took latitude and

longitude observations at every camp, and also frequent

compass-bearings; to reconcile all these is a task.

“Rice has taken a photograph of my corner, where I do all my work

and also sleep.

“Have been reading the authorities on glaciers, and regret I did not

inform myself better before going out. But perhaps that Chinese Wall

will make up for my short-comings.

“Those rheumatic pains I had a year ago have returned and trouble me

much. I must be moving again soon.

“Several of the dogs, becoming mangy, have been shot. Poor old

‘Howler,’ whom we left on the ice-floe, hoping he would recover and

follow us, was found dead near the same place. Oh! the hours of

misery I have spent in sleeping-bags, kept awake by that howling

brute—howling, perhaps, just because another dog looked at him! But,

for all his howlings and stealings, the ex-king was a good worker

and did his duty, and that should be all required of any one, man or

dog. May he rest in peace in the happy hunting-grounds of the canine

race! Frederick, I presume, will put on crape for him.”

XVI.

PREPARING FOR HOME.

Hardly had Lieutenant Lockwood reoccupied his _corner_ long enough

to get thoroughly rested and warm, before we find him hard at work

again and ready for any emergency. At the request of Lieutenant

Greely, he undertook a task in which he himself feared that he

manifested more zeal than discretion. Dr. Pavy, the natural history

custodian of the expedition, having failed to render reports of the

collections, or properly care for them, was relieved soon after

Lockwood’s return from the west, and the department was transferred

to Lockwood. With very little aid from the doctor, he made lists and

secured the specimens from further injury, the men having shown much

industry and zeal in adding to the collection. In the mean time,

Fredericks, who was a saddler by trade, rendered good service by

making for Lockwood and the men seal-skin boots, which were of great

use; and he also made himself useful by overhauling the

sleeping-bags and making new ones for the contemplated boat-voyage

to Littleton Island at a later day. Snyder had also made some

wearing gear for use on board the relief-ship.

“What a change for us all,” wrote Lockwood on the 3d of June, “if we

ever return home! And how much to talk about, and how much to hear!

Just two years ago, I left Baltimore on the Nova Scotia, to join the

Proteus at St. John’s. Open water is reported in the straits near

Cape Baird. How eagerly we watch for any change that may effect our

release!”

On the 22d of June, a party was sent up the Bellows for game and

returned successful, having killed eight musk-oxen, one seal, and a

few geese, all of which were duly brought in. Many waterfowl and

ptarmigans were brought from other points; and then followed a grand

dinner in honor of Dr. Pavy’s birthday. To show the social relations

of the officers, Lockwood says, “The only remark at dinner was a

very sage one by myself, viz., that the sun was now on his way

south, to which Lieutenant Greely assented.

“The men all busy and all cheerful. Lieutenant Greely remarked that

it did not look as if the ‘gloom which their coming fate cast over

the spirits of the men’ was quite as deep as Lieutenant Kislingbury

thought it to be. Another day gone,” wrote Lockwood—“another day

nearer the end of our stay here! A miserable, gloomy day it is too.

Snow, or snow mixed with rain, all day, and last night it blew a

gale from the right direction to clear away the ice—north-east. I

think myself now in excellent condition for a hermit’s life, having

had two years’ experience of a life not very dissimilar.”

On the 3d of June, Lockwood made the ascent of an immense “hog-back”

north of the station. Hog-back was the term used by the English to

designate the oval-shaped elevations so common in this region, being

neither mountain nor table-land, but immense undulations which, with

more or less slope, rise three, four, or even five thousand feet

above the sea-level. He was the first to ascend this one, and did so

to view the country northwest of it, which he desired to explore. It

was the highest of a series of ridges, half a mile or so apart, each

just high enough to suggest the idea of its being the genuine top,

but showing another beyond still higher. He pressed on, frequently

resting, and finally _did_ reach the top, and saw, beyond, the

United States Mountains in the distance. The view from this

elevation, more than half a mile above the sea-level, was superb.

The straits seemed one solid mass of ice. The Greenland shore and

Archer’s Fiord were in full view. The whole land was made up of

mountains.

The 4th of July was celebrated by a game of baseball, in which

Lieutenant Greely took part; also the Esquimaux, but they confined

themselves to running after the ball. A good dinner followed, to

which Lieutenant Greely contributed four bottles of Sauterne; but

the doctor declined the wine, and made a hasty meal. They also had a

rifle-match. Several of the men donned white shirts and other

“store-clothes,” metamorphosing themselves completely, flannel

shirts, with trousers in boots, being the usual costume.

On the same day Lieutenant Greely issued an order directing Dr. Pavy

to turn over to Lieutenant Lockwood all the medical stores,

journals, and collections, the former having declined to renew his

engagement, which had expired. On the 11th of July, Lockwood started

with Brainard on an exploration toward the northwest with a view of

reaching, if possible, the United States range of mountains. They

carried an outfit weighing one hundred pounds, or twenty-five pounds

for each man at the start, as Henry and Biederbick were to help them

with the impedimenta for one day and then return. They went without

sledge or tent, and carried only blanket, sleeping-bags, a small

lamp, and a few pounds of food, with instruments, snow-shoes, etc.

They soon reached the top of the hog-back beyond “Sugar-Loaf,” and

afterward the true hog-back Lockwood had visited before, finding it

2,700 feet high. Thence they kept a north-northwest course toward a

prominent glacier in the United States Range, moving about parallel

to North Valley Creek, which empties into St. Patrick’s Bay. After

traveling fourteen miles they camped—that is, selected as smooth and

sheltered a spot as could be found, made some tea, spread out the

sleeping-bags, and crawled in.

Henry and Biederbick left the next morning evidently well satisfied

to forego the pleasures of this trip. Their departure rendered it

necessary to reduce the load somewhat, which was done by leaving

behind the snow-shoes and rubber spread, trusting to luck to find a

bare spot for their sleeping-bag. After tramping through much wet

snow alternating with mud and stones, and getting their feet soaking

wet, they came to two deep gorges close together, each occupied by a

considerable stream of water. They crossed these and ascended a dome

beyond, three thousand feet high, and thence came to a still larger

stream whose gorge was one thousand feet deep. Here they stopped for

the night after a tramp of twelve miles. The next morning the sky

was overcast, with barometric indications of a storm; but they

continued their way with reduced loads, having only one day’s food

left. Following the stream northwest a few miles, they crossed it

and ascended a high elevation, from which the United States range

could be very distinctly viewed, and then came to the conclusion

that they had gone far enough.

With the telescope they could see distinctly, about twenty miles

away, the walls of the great glacier, and its face ten miles wide.

In fact, the whole range was full of glaciers. The country

intervening between them and the glaciers seemed comparatively

level. At noon they started back, and did not stop until the

camping-place of the night before was reached. Thence, after a drink

of tea and something to eat, abandoning their sleeping-bags, they

made for their first camp, where had been left the rubber spread and

one extra bag. The traveling was execrable, but they reached Fort

Conger on the 14th, hungry, tired, and decidedly used up.

On the 24th, preparations began for the proposed boat-journey toward

the south on which they would start when the ice would permit.

Lockwood, in obedience to a general order, prepared to take no

clothing except what he wore, and the few pounds of his baggage

would consist of his journal and other papers. He felt depressed and

low-spirited, and totally indifferent as to the risks they were to

encounter.

The straits were reported clear of ice below Cape Lieber on the

26th, but the bay near by was still full, though with many leads.

Every preparation was made to leave on the 1st of August, if

possible, or as soon after as the ice would allow. The men fiddled

and sang, and seemed in joyous spirits; and the hilarity was kept up

by the dogs Ritenbank and Ask-him having a terrible fight, resulting

in victory to the latter. The probable consequence was that Ask-him

would now be king. Ritenbank went about with his head down and tail

between his legs, a dethroned and friendless monarch. The usurper’s

reign, however, was likely to be a short one, as, on the party’s

leaving, the dogs would either be shot or left to starve to death.

The 5th of August arrived, and the ship was the only thing talked

about. Some of the men reported smoke down the straits, but it was

soon found to be only water-clouds or fog. In the midst of these

excitements, Lockwood gave expression to the following feelings: “As

the time for moving approaches, I feel a singular apathy. If we had

plenty of fresh meat and more good books, I could stand another

winter here.”

Soon after, heavy winds from the south making great changes in the

condition of the ice, active preparations were made for leaving.

Lockwood writes: “I don’t feel as though I was going away, much less

toward the south. Have felt more stirred up on beginning a

sledge-journey.”