726 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Batum, see p. 570; at
Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539). =1.= _North German Lloyd_
(Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Batum every alternate
Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli
(fare 80 or 56 marks).—=2.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co._
(Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from
Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu,
Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food
extra).—=3.= _Austrian Lloyd_, from Batum Frid. midnight (from
Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and
Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—=4.=
_Messageries Maritimes_, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from
Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or
60 fr.).—=5.= _N. Paquet & Co._, from Batum every second Thurs. (from
Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or
60 fr.).—=6.= _Società Nazionale_ (Line IX), from Batum every other
Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun,
Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.).
Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old
cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by
dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p.
536.
_Batum_, see p. 570. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear
weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the _Great
Caucasus_ (p. 570). The rugged mountains of the _Lazistan_, covered with
snow in winter, become visible as far as the _Kolat Dagh_ (about 7540
ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the
coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is _Rizeh_ (the
ancient _Rhizūs_), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which
is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees.
We next pass the headland _Erekli Burnu_. As we near Trebizond we see
the delta of the brook _Piksit Su_ or _Matshka_ (the ancient _Pyxites_),
where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under
Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp.
574, 576).
* * * * *
=Trebizond.=—ARRIVAL. The landing, which takes place at the pier
adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious
delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by
considerable difficulty.
HOTELS. _Pens. Marengo_ (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine
views, well spoken of; _Hôt. Suisse_ (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet
Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr.
AUSTRIAN POST OFFICE (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—STEAMBOAT
AGENTS, at the harbour.—BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_ (p. 539); _Banque
d’Athènes_.
CONSULATES. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, _H. Z. Longworth_.—United
States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, _M. A. Jewett_; vice-consul, _I.
Montesanto_.
_Trebizond_, the Turkish _Tirabson_ or _Tarábosan_, the seat of the
governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an
Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on
the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks,
Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling
the languages of the S. Caucasus. _Trapezūs_, founded by Milesians from
Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’)
castle-hill (p. 573). Next to the mother-city it was the most important
Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. 575),
and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the
conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. 542) it became the
capital of the small Greek empire of the _Comneni_, the last of whom,
_David Comnenus_, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. 542) in 1461.
Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base
of _Boz Tepeh_ (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence
to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. 571). The small harbour facilitates
trade with the towns of the hinterland (_e. g._ Gümüshkhaneh), but it is
only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at _Kalmek Point_
and a new breakwater at the headland of _Eleusa_. Notwithstanding the
competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still
carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian
highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz).
The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on
the EAST HILL, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a
battery, a lighthouse, and the _Güzel Seraï_ (Pl. B, C, 1; now
artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank
quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small
promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the _Greek Cathedral_ (Pl.
6; B, 1).
A little to the N. of the _Hurriyet Meïdan_, with its pleasure-grounds
(Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the
BAZAARS (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene,
especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those
of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold
and silver filigree are sold by weight.
[Illustration: TREBIZOND]
KEY TO NUMBERS. _Cemeteries_ (all C, 2): 1. Armenian-Catholic; 2.
Greek; 3. Latin (see p. 475); 4. Protestant.—_Mosques_ and _Churches_:
5. Aï Yaneh, B 1; 6. Greek Cathedral, B 1; 7. Great Mosque, A, B 1; 8.
Kathunieh Mosque, A 1; 9. Orta Hissar Jamissi, A 1; 10. St. Basilius,
B 1.—11. Yeni Juma Jamissi (St. Eugenius), A 2; 12. Grounds in the
Hurriyet Meïdan, B 1.—13. Seraï, A 1.—14. Zendan Kapusí, A 1.—15.
British Consulate, B 2.—16. United States Consulate, B 2.
Near the _Aï Yaneh Church_ (Pl. 5; B, 1), to the S. of the Bazaars, we
leave behind us the Usun Sokak and pass over a _Viaduct_ (fine view)
leading to the old CASTLE HILL, rising between the two ravines of the
_Kuzgun Deresí_ and the _Iskeleboz Deresí_. This is now occupied by the
Turkish town proper and contains the ruins of the _Byzantine Town
Walls_.
The chief artery of traffic leads through the _Orta Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1,
2) or older and central part of the castle. It passes (left) the SERAÏ
(Pl. 13; A, 1), the seat of the governor-general, and (right) the mosque
of _Orta Hissar Jamissi_ (Pl. 9; A, 1), once the church of _Panagia
Chrysokephalos_, said to have been founded by Justinian.
At the Seraï a street diverging to the left leads to the _Yokari Hissar_
(Pl. A, 2), or old upper castle, with the ruins of the imperial palace
of the Comneni.—On the N. side of the Seraï various crooked lanes
descend through the _Ashagi Hissar_ (Pl. A, 1), or lower castle, the
wall of which projects over the W. ravine, to the _Fishing Harbour_, the
ancient harbour of Trapezūs, where remains of an almost semicircular
quay are still visible under water The appearance of the fishing-boats
is very quaint.
Through the _Zendan Kapusí_ (Pl. 14; A, 1), or W. gate, we pass from the
Seraï over a second viaduct to the WEST HILL. Here lie (on the left) the
picturesque _Turkish Cemetery_ and a suburb occupied by Turks and
Greeks. Beyond the infantry-barracks, at the W. end of this suburb,
rises the old _Aya Sóphia Church_, now a mosque.
Beautiful *VIEWS are obtained from the caves of _Kirk Batal_ (Pl. B,
C, 2), on the slope of Boz Tepeh (p. 572), above the Greek cemetery,
and from the high-lying Greek nunnery of _Panaya Theoskepastos_ (Turk.
_Kizlar Monastir_; Pl. B, 2).
A pleasant DRIVE (or walk or ride) may be taken to the hill of
_Suk-Su_ in the S.W. with the summer-residences of the wealthier
Greeks; or to the W. along the coast to (1 hr.) _Platana_ (see below;
motor-omn. 15 pias.; carr. there and back 40–50 pias.); or to the S.,
through the _Pyxites Valley_ (p. 572), following a road traversed by
many camel-caravans, and ascending steeply to (4 hrs.) _Jevislik_
(carr. there and back 80 pias.; provisions should be taken).
* * * * *
Beyond Trebizond the STEAMER passes the little port of _Platana_, the
ancient _Hermonassa_, with a good roadstead, protected against the W.
and N.W. winds. The lofty _Cape Yoros_ or _Ieros_ (ancient _Hieron_;
lighthouse), is visible for some 65 M. and is locally regarded as an
infallible barometer.
=Tireboli=, the _Tripolis_ of the Greeks, the next seaport, now a quiet
little town with 5000 inhab., lies, like Kerasun, amid the magnificent
rocky scenery of the spurs of the _Sis Dagh_ (9220 ft.) and the _Chal
Dagh_ (6450 ft.), the summits of which are often covered with snow.
Roads lead thence inland to the towns of _Gümüshkhaneh_ and
_Karahissar_.
Farther on, beyond _Cape Zephyros_ (Turk. _Zefireh Burnu_) we reach the
seaport of =Kerasun= or _Kerasund_ (Turk. _Kiresün_, Greek _Kireson_),
founded under the name of _Kerasūs_ by the Milesians of Sinope and now a
town of about 18,000 inhabitants. Like Trebizond it was one of the
resting-places of the Ten Thousand under Xenophon (p. 572). Its
situation on and behind a small peninsula (about 425 ft.; lighthouse),
which used to be fortified, and backed by superb mountains is very
picturesque. The poor anchorage of the steamers is on the W. side of the
peninsula, near the pier and the custom-house. Owing to the want of good
communication with the hinterland its maritime commerce is
insignificant.
The steamers seldom call at _Ordu_, the ancient _Kotyora_, but steer
across the _Bay of Vona_, the winter quarters of most of the
sailing-vessels on this coast, which is admirably sheltered by _Cape
Vona_ (_Boōna Promontorium_; lighthouse).
Beyond _Yasun Burnu_ (_Jasonium Promontorium_), the name of which
commemorates the legendary voyage of Jason and the Argonauts (see p.
560), the coast recedes far to the S.
Without touching at the little seaport of _Üniyeh_ or _Unia_ (once
_Œnoē_), the steamer passes the _Chiva_ or _Chalti Burnu_ (_Heracleum
Promontorium_) and the large delta of the _Yeshil Irmak_ (formerly
_Iris_; beacon), which is navigable for small vessels in winter only,
and steers direct towards the broad _Bay of Samsun_ (landing or
embarkation 7½ pias.), which is enclosed by low hills clad with
plantations of tobacco and maize.
=Samsun.=—HOTEL. _Mantika_, near the Banque Ottomane, R. 2–5, pens. 15
fr. (bargain advisable).— _Restaurant Yanni_, near the
tobacco-factory.
BANKS. _Banque Ottomane_, _Banque d’Athènes_, _Banque de
Salonique_.—POST OFFICES. _Turkish_, _French_, and others, near the
custom-house.
CONSULS. British, _B. Ch. Papadopulos_.—United States Consular Agent,
_William Peter_.
_Samsun_, a town with about 30,000 inhab., was in antiquity an important
Greek colony under the name of _Amisus_ and is now the chief
trading-place on the N. coast of Asia Minor. The chief exports are
tobacco, flour, grain, and linseed. The manufactured goods it imports
are forwarded mainly by trains of wagons or camels to such inland places
as Mersifun, Amasia (once Amasea, the home of Strabo), Tokat (Comana),
Sivas (Sebastia), and Kaisarieh (Cæsarea).
From the custom-house we turn to the left to the _Market Place_ with its
clock-tower. A well-paved street leads thence to the _Banque Ottomane_.
Farther to the E., on the shore, are the _Seraï_ (see p. 483) and
several _Consulates_. The attractive _Villa Quarter_, occupied by
Armenian and Greek merchants, conveys an impression of great prosperity.
Beyond Samsun the sandy coast juts out far towards the N.W. We pass the
strip of land separating the sea from the large lagoon _Ak Göl_, the
vicinity of which is infested by fever. _Cape Bafra_ (beacon), a little
farther on, is near the delta of the _Kizil Irmak_ (_Halys_), which in
B.C. 301–183 formed the boundary between the kingdom of _Pontus_ and
_Paphlagonia_. Though the largest river in Asia Minor the Kizil Irmak is
not navigable.
Beyond the month of the Halys we come to a broad semicircular bay. On
its N. shore, beyond the peninsula of _Boz Tepeh Burnu_ (about 650 ft.;
beacon), is a tongue of land on which stands =Sinōpe= (Turk. _Sinob_),
the oldest of the colonies established on the coast of the Black Sea by
the Greeks of Miletus (p. 491) and long the most powerful. Sinope was
the home of Diogenes the Cynic (about B. C. 412–323). Here Xenophon’s
Ten Thousand (p. 574) took ship on their way back to Byzantium (p. 541)
at the conclusion of the toilsome Anabasis. It was also the residence of
Mithridates VI. (B. C. 120–63; comp. p. 507), the last king of Pontus,
who was famous both for his linguistic accomplishments and his military
powers. He extended his sway over the whole of Asia Minor and the Crimea
(p. 568), but was finally subdued by the Romans in three hardfought
campaigns. Sinope, formerly the starting-point of an important
caravan-route to Cappadocia and the lands of the Euphrates, now
possesses, notwithstanding its excellent harbour, little more than the
shadow of its former greatness. The poor little town, inhabited by about
8000 Greeks and Turks, entirely lacks roads to the interior. The
barracks at the W. end of the headland serve as a quarantine lazaretto.
We next steam past _Injeh Burun_ (_Syrias Promontorium_; beacon), the
northmost point of Asia Minor, and skirt a hilly, well-wooded, but
thinly peopled stretch of the shore.
=Ineboli= (_Ionopolis_), the chief seaport of this part of the coast,
situated on the little river of that same name, is a poor little town
with Turkish timber-built houses (p. 542) and a ruined castle. The
roads, with their breakwater in ruins, are exposed to every wind and are
often inaccessible in winter for days together. A road leads hence to
(ca. 50 M.) _Kastamuni_, the present capital of the ancient Paphlagonia.
The small ports beyond _Cape Kerembe_ (_Carambis Promontorium_; lights),
where the coast again turns to the S.W., are not touched at by the large
steamers.
Farther on, in the ancient _Bithynia_, appear the prominent _Cape Baba_
(_Acherusia Promontorium_; beacon) and _Cape Kirpe_ or _Kerpe_, with the
small island of _Kirpe_ (_Thynias_; beacon). Near Cape Baba lay the
important Greek colony of _Heraclea Pontica_, now called _Erekli_ or
_Bender Eregli_.
Farther on is the _Yum Burnu_ (p. 560), which is visible at a distance
of 17 M. and marks the N. entrance to the Bosporus.
For the passage of the _Bosporus_ and the arrival in _Constantinople_,
see pp. 560–558 and p. 536.