76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (_and Constantinople_)._The Mediterranean

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens: 590 M.): =1.= _Khedivial Mail

Steamship Co._ (Alexandria and Constantinople line), from Alexandria

on Wed. (returning from the Piræus Thurs.) aft., in 42 hrs. (fare £ E

5 or £ 3 E 25 pias.).—=2.= _Rumanian Mail Line_ (Alexandria and

Constantza line), from Alexandria on Frid. aft. (returning from the

Piræus Sat. aft.), in 2 days.—=3.= _Russian Steam Navigation & Trading

Co._ (Odessa, Constantinople, and Alexandria line), from Alexandria on

Frid. aft. (from the Piræus Tues.), in 2 days (130 or 90 fr.).

FROM ALEXANDRIA TO SMYRNA (623 M.), steamers of the Belgian company

_La Phocéenne_ (between Alexandria and Constantinople), every Sat.

aft. viâ Rhodes, Leros, and Chios.

Agents in Alexandria, see p. 432; at the Piræus, p. 494; at Smyrna, p.

531. Passports for Turkey should be _visés_ before starting, or a

Turkish passport (_teskeré_) may be obtained at the government

buildings (p. 434).

_Alexandria_, see p. 431. The ATHENS STEAMERS steer to the N.W. to the

_Strait of Kasos_, 28 M. broad, lying between _Kasos_ (1706 ft.; one of

the Dodekanesos group, p. 490) and _Crete_ (p. 415). Behind Kasos rises

the lofty island of _Kárpathos_ (4003 ft.; Ital. _Scarpanto_, Turk.

_Kerpe_), like the former one of the southmost of the Sporades. Fine

view of the _Sitía Mts._ (4852 ft.), continued by the _Lasithi Mts._,

together called _Dikte_ in ancient times. Off the E. coast of Crete we

see the flat islet of _Elasa_.

We steer close by _Cape Sídero_ (lighthouse), the N.E. point of Crete,

and past the _Gianitsades_ (_Insulae Dionysiades_). As we steam across

the _Cretan Sea_ (_Mare Creticum_) the high mountains of Crete long

remain visible.

We next pass _Askania_ (469 ft.) and _Christiana_ (916 ft.), the

southmost islets of the _Cyclades_ (p. xxxii), which belong to Greece,

and which, like the S. Sporades (p. 490) in the _Ægean Sea_, rise from a

submarine barrier running between the extremities of Attica and Eubœa

(p. 529) and the coast of Asia Minor.

Beyond Christiana we have a striking view of the immense prehistoric

crater-basin formed by the islands of _Therasía_ (952 ft.) and

_Santorin_ (p. 417). To the N. appear the wild rocky island of _Síkinos_

(1480 ft.) and the distant _Iós_ or _Niós_ (p. 417), and to the N.W.

_Pholégandros_ (1349 ft.) and the large volcanic island of _Melos_ or

_Milos_ (2537 ft.).

We steer between Pholégandros on the right and _Polinos_ (1171 ft.) on

the left, a broad passage marked by lighthouses at night, and then

through the strait between _Kímolos_ (1306 ft.) on the left and

_Siphnos_ (2280 ft.; lighthouse) on the right, both of which, like

_Sériphos_ (1585 ft.; on the right; with iron-mines), have retained

their ancient Greek names.

Passing at some distance from _Thermiá_ (1148 ft.; the ancient

_Kythnos_) and _Kea_ (p. 529) we steer close by the islet of _Hágios

Georgios_ and through the _Bay of Ægina_ to the _Piraeus_ (p. 494).

* * * * *

On the VOYAGE TO SMYRNA we steam to the N.N.W., 370 M. from Alexandria,

to _Rhodes_ (p. 490).

Beyond Rhodes on the left are the island of _Charki_ (1954 ft.), off its

N.W. coast, and then _Telos_ and _Nisyros_ (p. 490). A little farther on

we pass through the strait between the _Syrina Group_, on the left, and

the islets of _Kandelëusa_ and _Pantelëusa_ (181 ft.; lighthouse),

adjoining Nisyros, on the right.

To the W. we sight the double-peaked island of _Astropalia_ (1660 ft.;

ancient _Astypalaea_) and _Amorgós_ (p. 417), and to the E. _Cos_ and

_Kalymnos_ (p. 490). Beyond the lights on the islet of _Lévitha_ (548

ft.) and beyond _Leros_ (p. 490), at which the steamer calls, the rocky

isle of _Patmos_ or _Patínos_ (870 ft.), St. John’s place of exile,

becomes more conspicuous.

We next steer round _Cape Papas_, the W. point of the bold island of

_Nikaria_ or _Ikaria_ (3422 ft.), and then to the N.N.E. through the

_Straits of Chios_, 4½ M. in breadth, between the island of =Chios=

(Turk. _Sakis Adasi_; 318 sq. M. in area) and the mainland of Anatolia

or Asia Minor. The S. entrance of the straits, beyond _Capo Bianco_

(right; once _Argennon_), is flanked with the islets of _Páspargon_

(lighthouse) and _Panagia_. On the right lies the harbour of _Cheshmeh_,

a little town with a mediæval castle.

We now enter the harbour of =Kastro=, or _Chios_ (Xenodochion Nea Chios,

a good inn; pop. about 14,000, mostly Greeks), the capital of the

island, on the E. coast. Once a most important member of the Ionian

league of cities, Chios belonged in the middle ages to the Venetians

(1204–1345), and then to the Genoese (1346–1566), and only became

Turkish under Suleiman the Great (p. 542). The fruitless Greek struggle

for independence ended with the massacre of Chios in 1832. The

hill-country of Chios is extremely fertile. A valuable export is the gum

of the mastic-shrub.

We next pass close to the _Goni Islands_, lying in front of the bay of

_Lytri_ (_Erythrae_), and the _Spalmatori Islets_ (_Œnussae Insulae_),

at the N. end of the straits of Chios.

Sail up the _Gulf of Smyrna_, see p. 530.

77. From (_Marseilles_, _Genoa_) Naples to Athens (_and

Constantinople_).

774 M. FROM NAPLES TO ATHENS (steamboat-agents at Marseilles, see p.

120; at Genoa, p. 114; at Naples, p. 137; at the Piræus, pp. 494,

495). =1.= _North German Lloyd_ (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR.

23, 24, 80) from Marseilles every other Thurs. viâ Genoa (Sat.),

Naples (Mon.), and Catania (Tues.) to the Piræus in 6 days (fare from

Marseilles 180 or 120 marks, from Genoa 168 or 112 marks, from Naples

120 or 84 marks, from Catania 96 or 64 marks).—=2.= _Messageries

Maritimes_ (Marseilles, Constantinople, and Beirut line), from

Marseilles every second Thurs. viâ Naples (Sat.) to the Piræus in 4

days (fare 225 or 150 fr.); also (Marseilles, Constantinople, and

Black Sea line) every second Sat. viâ Kalamata and Canea (p. 415) to

the Piræus in 5 days.—=3.= _Società Nazionale_, lines X and XI (Genoa,

Constantinople, and Odessa line), from Genoa, Tues. night, viâ Leghorn

(p. 143), Naples (Frid.), Palermo (p. 147), Messina, Catania, and

Canea (p. 415) to the Piræus in 11 days (fare from Naples 155 fr. 50

c. or 109 fr.).

From _Marseilles_ and _Genoa_ to Naples, see RR. 23, 24.

From Naples (see R. 27), after half-a-day’s sail, we reach the superb

_Straits of Messina_. On the right, at the foot of the _Monti

Peloritani_, lie the ruins of =Messina= (p. 156); to the left is

_Reggio_ (p. 159); to the S.W. towers _Mt. Ætna_ (p. 159).

The German and Italian boats steer to the S.S.W. to =Catania= (p. 160).

Sailing to the E.S.E., and gradually leaving Ætna behind, we lose sight

of land for a whole day. At length, on the left, we sight the _Messenian

Peninsula_ of the Peloponnesus, flanked by the _Œnussae Islands_; beyond

it, the _Bay of Koronē_, the ancient _Messenian Bay_, runs far inland.

We then steer to the E. towards _Cape Taenaron_ or _Matapán_ (p. xxxii),

the S. point of the peninsula of _Mani_. To the N.E. looms the bold

rocky crest of _Mt. Taygetos_ (7903 ft.), whose top is free from snow in

summer only.

Beyond Cape Tænaron the _Bay of Marathonisi_, the ancient _Sinus

Laconicus_, opens to the N. We next pass between _Cape Maléa_, notorious

for its storms, and the island of _Kythera_ (1660 ft.; Ital. _Cerigo_),

and turn towards the N. For a short time we see the mountains of _Crete_

(p. 415) to the S.E. The bleak S.E. coast of the Peloponnesus is now

gradually left behind, while to the right a few small rocky islands,

belonging to the Cyclades (p. 492), come into sight.

Off _Hydra_ (1942 ft.; lighthouse), near the peninsula of _Argolis_,

opens the _Bay of Ægina_, the ancient _Saronic Gulf_. To the left is the

island of _Poros_; in the background rises Mt. Hágios Elias (1748 ft.),

the highest hill in _Ægina_. On the right, beyond the islet of _Hagios

Geōrgios_ (1050 ft.; lighthouse), the ancient _Belbina_, appears the

hilly S. extremity of Attica with _Cape Colonna_ (p. 529). The barren

rounded hill in Attica, much foreshortened at first, is _Mt. Hymettos_;

straight in front of us is _Mt. Parnes_, forming the N. boundary of the

Attic plain.

Before us are the ancient _Mt. Ægaleos_ (now _Skaramangá Mts._) and the

indented coast of the island of _Salamis_, which appears at both ends to

join the mainland. Above Salamis towers the lofty peak of _Geraneia_ in

Megaris. A hill jutting into the sea in front of Mt. Ægaleos now becomes

visible. This is the _Piraeus Peninsula_ (comp. Map, p. 528). The hill a

short way inland is the _Munychia_ (p. 495), and to the right of it lies

the shallow bay of _Phálēron_ (p. 528). Between Hymettus and Parnes the

gable-shaped _Pentelikon_ appears. We now have a beautiful view of

_Athens_; in the centre rises the Acropolis, on the left the monument of

Philopappos. The large white building on the right is the royal palace,

beyond which rises _Lykabettos_ (p. 528).

As we near the Piræus we observe the rocky islet of _Lipsokutáli_

(_Psyttaleia_; lighthouse), lying off the E. tongue of Salamis, and

masking the entrance to the straits of Salamis, the scene of the famous

battle of 480 B. C. (p. 506). The steamer rounds the headland of _Aktē_

and slowly enters the harbour of the Piræus.

=Piræus.=—The COMMISSIONNAIRES of the chief Athens hotels come on

board (those of the smaller, only when written for). Arrangements for

landing (boat 1 dr., with baggage 2 dr.) and for a carriage to Athens

(p. 495) had better be left to them. Heavier baggage is briefly

examined at the _Teloníon_, at the S. E. angle of the harbour.

STATION of the electric railway to Athens (comp. p. 503), to the N. of

the town (opposite the station of the Peloponnesus line).

HOTEL. _Hot. & Restaurant Continental_, Karaïskakis Sq., to the N. of

the harbour, R. from 2 dr.; but better quarters are to be had in

Athens.—CAFÉS in and near the garden to the S. of the Dēmarchía, 3

min. to the E. of Karaïskakis Sq., on the harbour.

ELECTRIC TRAMWAYS from the custom-house to the Athens station; from

the station to the Zea harbour; also from the station, from the

harbour (Karaïskakis Sq.), or from the Rue de Socrate to New Phálēron

(p. 528).

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. _Messageries Maritimes_, Vamvakaris, Rue de Miaulis

30 b; _North German Lloyd_, Roth & Co., Rue de Tsamadú 21; _German

Levant_, Frangopulos; _Austrian Lloyd_, S. Calucci, Quai de Tshelebi,

to the W. of Karaïskakis Sq.; _Società Nazionale_, A. Vellas; _Russian

Steam Navigation & Trading Co._, Mussuris.

BRITISH CONSUL, _C. J. Cooke_; vice-consul, _J. Joannidis_.

The _Piraeus_, Gr. _Peiraieus_ (pronounced Piræévs; pop. 71,500), the

time-honoured seaport of Athens (comp. p. 506), became a mere village

after its destruction by Sulla in 86 B. C., and in the middle ages even

lost its name, but within the last few decades has developed into a

prosperous town. Its trade now exceeds that of Patras. The harbour, the

ancient _Kantharos_, admits the largest vessels. Spacious quays, an

exchange, a theatre, wide and regular streets, and over a hundred

factories have been constructed.

Its antiquities are few compared with those of Athens. The chief are

parts of the fortifications, such as a wall defended by towers,

ascending the peninsula of _Eétioneia_, to the W. of the harbour. It is

reached from the station in 8 min. by walking round the shallow N. arm

of the harbour (the ‘blind harbour’ of antiquity). On the hill it is

pierced by a gateway between two round towers.

A broad and easy path ascends the _Munychia Hill_ (280 ft.), to the E.

of the town (20 min.), whence we overlook the various basins of the

Great Harbour, the round _Zea Bay_ at the S.W. foot of the hill, the

_Munychia Harbour_ at the S.E. base, and to the E. of the latter the

broad _Phaleron Bay_, where the Athenian ships lay down to the time of

the Persian wars. We may return by the Zea Bay, noticing remains of

ancient boat-houses at the beginning of the Rue du Serangeion, and

regain the station by tramway.

FROM THE PIRÆUS TO ATHENS (5 M.) the electric RAILWAY (p. 503) is the

quickest conveyance, but as it lies low and runs through cuttings and

tunnels near the city it affords little view.

New-comers had better take a CARRIAGE. The new route (1½ hr.; fare, with

luggage, 8–10 dr.), though longer, is in better condition, and is

therefore preferred by the drivers. At first running alongside the

railway it reaches _New Phaleron_ (p. 528); it then skirts the bay of

Phaleron at some little distance from the shore. Later proceeding inland

it follows the broad new _Boulevard Syngrós_, which commands an

excellent view of the Acropolis and leads in a straight line as far as

the Olympieion (p. 509).—The old route (1¼ hr.; fare, with luggage, 6–7

dr.) follows the ‘Long Walls’ (p. 506) which once connected the Piræus

with Athens. On the left is _Mt. Ægaleos_ (p. 494), while on the right

appears the bay of Phaleron. We cross the generally dry bed of the

_Kephisos_ (p. 505), and then pass the limits of the ancient olive-grove

that occupies the plain of the Kephisos. Leaving behind a hill which

conceals the Acropolis we at once come in sight of the Theseion, the

Areopagus, and the Acropolis. The houses of the city, which we reach at

the Dipylon (p. 522), all too soon exclude this splendid view. _Athens_,

see p. 502.

78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (_and Constantinople_) viâ Brindisi

and Patras.

FROM VENICE TO THE PIRÆUS (Athens), _Società Nazionale_ (Line XII,

Venice, Brindisi, Patras, and Constantinople), from Venice on Sat.

aft. (returning from Piræus Frid. foren.), to Patras in 4½, to the

Piræus in 5 days (fare 195 or 134 fr.).

FROM TRIESTE TO THE PIRÆUS. =1.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (fast boats to

Constantinople) from Trieste on Tues. aft. (returning from Piræus Sun.

even.) to Patras in 2½, to the Piræus in 4 days (fare to Patras 159 or

109, to Piræus 220 or 147 fr.). Also Greek-Oriental Line (every Sun.

foren.; returning from Piræus Sun. aft.), in 5 days, and Thessalian

Line (Frid. aft.; returning from Piræus Frid. or Sat.) in 6½

days.—=2.= _Greek Steamboat Co. Panhellenios_, from Trieste on Frid.

foren. (from Piræus Mon. morn.) to Patras in 3, to the Piræus in 5

days.

_From Trieste to Patras_, New York Line of the _Austro-Americana_ (p.

425), from Trieste weekly or fortnightly, in 42–46 hrs. (fare 150 or

110 K). Passengers for the Piræus are conveyed through the Corinth

canal by the _Achaia Co._, or they may go on by rail (see below).

Agents in Venice, see p. 420; at Trieste, p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429;

at Corfu, p. 497; at Patras, p. 501; at the Piræus, pp. 494, 495.

FROM PATRAS TO ATHENS, 137½ M., railway in 7½–9½ hrs. (fare 25 or 18

dr.); express on Tues. and Frid. in 6–1 ‘wagon de luxe’ 33 dr. 40 l.).

As to Greek money, see p. 502.

The Italian steamers (comp. p. 427) from Venice touch at _Ancona_,

_Bari_, and _Brindisi_. The Lloyd steamers, except those of the

Thessalian line, go direct from Trieste to _Brindisi_ (comp. p. 429).

Soon after leaving Brindisi we steer to the S.E. To the left of the

_Straits of Otranto_ (p. 430) are seen the outlines of _Albania_

(Turkey), with the great rampart of the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (6644 ft.).

Farther on, in the foreground, lies the island of Corfu. On the right

are the Othonian Islands, _Othoní_, _Eríkusa_, _Mathraki_, and the islet

of _Diaplo_. At the S. end of the Acroceraunian Mts. lies _Santi

Quaranta_, where the Italian steamers call, the poor seaport for Yánina,

which is two day’s ride (59 M.) distant.

The scenery of the wide Strait of Corfu (2–4½ M. broad), separating the

island from the mainland, is very imposing. To the right towers _Monte

San Salvatore_ (p. 500). The town of Corfu, partly hidden at first by

the island of Vido, is now revealed. On casting anchor we have on our

left the double hump of the Fortezza Vecchia and on the right the dark

ramparts of the Fortezza Nuova.

* * * * *

Corfu.

ARRIVAL. Landing or embarking 1½, with heavy baggage, 2 dr. As the

boatmen are insolent, there is no tariff, and great confusion

prevails, the traveller had better allow the hotel-agents who come on

board to arrange for boat, baggage, and carriage, for which a charge

of 3–4 fr. is made in the bill. Passengers who go ashore for a few

hours only may bargain to be landed and rowed back for 1½ fr., payable

on their return.

[Illustration: ISOLA DI CORFÙ]

[Illustration: CORFU]

HOTELS (tariffs payable in gold, see p. 502). *_Hôt. d’Angleterre &

Belle Venise_ (Pl. a), to the S. of the town, high site, with fine

views and garden, R. 3–7, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr.; _St. Georges_ (Pl.

b), on the Esplanade, similar charges.—Unpretending houses, with

restaurants: _Belvedere_, Strada sulle Mura, pens. 7 dr.; the

following are in the Greek style: _Orient_, on the Esplanade;

_Patras_, Nikephoros Street; _Hôt. d’Alexandrie_, R. 2 fr., and _Hôt.

de Constantinople_, R. 3 dr., both near the harbour.

CAFÉS in the Esplanade, at the beginning of the double avenue; cup of

Turkish coffee 20 l.—RESTAURANTS. _Abbondanza_ (Greek), Nikephoros

Street, moderate; _Patras_, _Belvedere_, see above.—BEER. _Dobay_, on

the Esplanade; _Gambrinus_, near the Old Theatre (p. 498).

BANKS. _Fels & Co._ (Pl. 1), Strada sulle Mura; _Banque Ionienne_,

Nikephoros Street, not far from the Esplanade; _Banque

Nationale_.—POST OFFICE, adjoining the Sanità, Nikephoros

Street.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE, near the Banque Ionienne.

STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Austrian Lloyd_, _Ellerman Line_, Fels & Co. (see

above); _Società Nazionale_ (Pl. 8), G. Topali.—TOURIST AGENCY.

_Hamburg-American Line_, Strada sulle Mura.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Barff &

Co._

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 3): consul, _G. Raymond_; vice-consul, _P.

Papadachi_.—United States (Pl. 7): consular agent, _Ch. E. Hancock_.

CARRIAGES. Drives in town or nearer environs 2–3 dr. per hr., as may

be agreed upon; short drive usually 1 fr. Carr. obtained at the hotels

are better but dearer.—BOATS for excursions may be ordered at the

hotels.

MOTOR CARS (belonging to the _Société d’Automobiles_): omnibus daily

to the N. and S. parts of the island, each person 10 l. per kilomètre;

vehicle seated for live 50 l. per kilomètre.

THEATRES. _Teatro Grande_, built in 1895 on the model of San Carlo at

Naples, near the Porta Reale; Ital. opera in winter; _Summer Theatre_,

to the S. of the Ginnasio.

SEA BATHS (80 l. to 1 dr.) and plunge-baths, near Punta San Nicolò.

ENGLISH CHURCH (_Holy Trinity_), service in the season.

_Corfu_, Ital. _Corfù_, Greek _Kérkyra_, the capital of the island of

the same name and the seat of archbishops of the Greek and Roman

Catholic churches, is one of the wealthiest towns in the Greek dominions

(pop. 28,250, incl. 4000 Rom. Cath. and 2700 Jews). The spacious harbour

is enlivened by a brisk trade, the chief export being olive-oil. The

fortifications constructed by the Venetians, the _Fortezza Vecchia_,

picturesquely situated in the sea, on a double rock to the E. of the

town, and the _Fortezza Nuova_, on the N.W., are both now unimportant.

The narrow streets present a busy scene. The chief languages are Greek

and Italian.

_Kérkyra._ Lat. _Corcyra_, the largest (245 sq. M.) and most important

of the Ionian Islands, was supposed in ancient times to have been

_Scheria_, the home of the Phæaci and their king Alkinoos. Having been

colonized by the Corinthians at an early period (734 B. C.), it

developed into a dangerous rival of its mother-city, thus partly

causing the Peloponnesian war. The mediæval name seems to have been

derived from ‘Korphus’, as the old fortress on the two rocks was

called. From 1386 to 1797 Corfu belonged to Venice, from 1815 to 1863

it was under British sway, after which it was ceded, along with the

other Ionian Islands, to the kingdom of Greece.

The island (with 93,860 inhab.) possesses hill and plain, bold rocks

and charming bays on the coast, abundant water-supply, rich

vegetation, and fine old olive forests, which combine to render its

scenery highly attractive. The climate is mild and equable in spring

and autumn. The good roads made everywhere by the British government

add to the comfort and enjoyment of a short stay in the island.

On disembarking we cross the courtyard of the Dogana, turn to the left

at the small Hôt. de Constantinople, and follow the _Strada sulle Mura_,

which skirts the N. side of the town, affording numerous fine views, and

reaches the Esplanade near the royal palace. Or we may ascend direct

from the Dogana through the _Strada Nikephoros_, the busy main street,

in 5 min. to the Esplanade. Before we reach the Esplanade we pass a

side-street on the left with the church of _Santo Spiridione_, and

another on the right with the _Teatro Vecchio_, built by the Venetians,

now the municipio.

The ESPLANADE, or _Spianata_, lies between the town and the old

fortress. On the W. side it is bounded by handsome houses with arcades

on the groundfloor. At the N. end rises the—

=Royal Palace=, built in grey Malta stone, at the beginning of the

British period, for the Lord High Commissioner, and containing the

throne-room and the hall of the former Ionian senate. The entrance is by

the W. side-door (gratuity). A marble staircase ascends to the first

floor. At the top is an antique lion couchant.—In front of the palace is

a _Statue of Sir Frederick Adam_, a much respected Lord High

Commissioner of the islands (1823–32).

At the E. end of the double avenue intersecting the Esplanade rises a

statue of _Count von der Schulenburg_, who conducted the defence of

Corfu against the Turks in 1716, erected by the republic of Venice.

Beyond it a bridge crosses a strait to the—

*=Fortezza Vecchia= (adm. on application), which rises on the steep

twin-rocks in terraces. The dilapidated buildings are now used as

barracks and a military hospital. At the foot of the height is the

garrison-church built by the British. The passage opposite the chief

entrance gives access to the commandant’s house. We ascend hence to the

left, pass through a long vaulted passage, leading straight on to the

ramparts, which are overgrown with vegetation, and lastly mount a few

steps to the platform on the W. rock (230 ft.; with signalling station

and lighthouse). The custodian lends a telescope (25 l.). We enjoy here

a superb **View of the town and of the island, from Monte San Salvatore

and Capo Cassopetto on the N. to Capo Bianco on the S.; to the E. is

Epirus in Turkey, with its lofty mountains.

A broad street descends from the S. end of the Esplanade to the VIALE

DELL’ IMPERATRICE ELISABETTA, formerly _Strada Marina_, skirting the

shore below the new quarter of the town and now a favourite promenade in

the evening. At the beginning of it, on the right, is the _Casino_, with

reading and concert rooms. Turning to the right after 4 min., and then

to the left, we come to the _Museum_, containing ancient sculptures and

tomb-inscriptions. Near it is the round _Tomb of Menecrates_, resembling

a well (7th or 6th cent. B.C.). Above is the ruined _Fort of San

Salvatore_ (prison).

The boulevard sweeps round the suburb of =Kastrades= or _Garitza_ first

to the S. and then to the E. to the Molo protecting the bay. At a bend,

short of the molo, we follow the Viale Imperatore Guglielmo Secondo to

the right (S.). After 7 min., opposite the apse of the old church of

_Santa Corcyra_, we ascend a road to the left. A gate on the left is the

entrance to the—

*=Royal Villa of Monrepos= (_Villa Reale_; free on Sun. and Thurs.

aft.). The park affords fine views of the town and castle.

The Viale Imperatore Guglielmo skirts the W. slope of the hilly

peninsula which stretches to the S., between _Lake Kalikiópulo_ and the

sea. Here probably lay the ancient city, with the bay of Kastrades as

its trading harbour, while the Lake of Kalikiopulo, now choked with mud,

seems to have been the _Portus Hyllaeicus_, used as a station for

vessels of war. The road is bordered with rose and orange gardens, and

farther on with beautiful olive-groves. In 25 min. (or from the

Esplanade in ¾ hr.) we reach a round open space, called the *=Canone=,

or _One-gun Battery_ (carr. 5–6 fr.), which commands a superb view of

the E. coast of the island.

Opposite, at the entrance to the ancient Hyllæan harbour, lies the

_Scoglio di Ulisse_ (‘cliff of Ulysses’), or _Pontikonisi_ (‘mouse

island’), a cypress-planted islet with a chapel and parsonage, now

owned by an enterprising German. The Greeks took this to be the ship

of the Phæacians which had brought Odysseus to Ithaca, and on its way

back was turned into stone by the angry Poseidon. The S.W. shore of

the Lake of Kalikiopulo, where a brook named _Kressida_ enters the

lake, is pointed out as the place where Odysseus was cast ashore and

met the princess Nausicaa.

The charming drive to _Gasturi_ and _Benizze_ (7½ M.) and back takes 3–4

hrs. (carr. 10–15 dr.; as far as the Achilleion, there and back 2½ hrs.,

8–10 dr.). We leave the town by the former W. gate, or _Porta Reale_ and

pass through the suburb of _San Rocco_. The road runs a little to the W.

of Lake Kalikiopulo and ascends in windings to (5 M.) =Gasturi=

(Achilleion, pens. 7 dr.). About ½ M. farther, a little to the left, is

the villa *=Achilleion= (adm. to the building and the grounds 11–3, 2

dr.), built in 1890–1 for Empress Elizabeth of Austria (d. 1898), in the

Italian Renaissance style, and purchased by the German emperor in 1907.

The back of the villa is adjoined by a peristyle and three terraces

adorned with statues. On the road, just beyond the villa, is the

_Restaurant Bella Vista_. We now descend (short-cuts for walkers) to the

(2 M.) fishing-village of _Benizze_, where delicious oranges grow, and

where there are remains of a Roman villa (boat to Corfu, 5 dr.)

Another delightful excursion is to _Santi Deca_ (carr. 10–15 dr.; there

and back 5–6 hrs.). About ¾ M. short of Gasturi the road diverges to the

right from the Benizze road. The drive to the village of _Hagi Deka_ or

_Santi Deca_ (‘ten saints’; 676 ft.) takes 1¼ hr. (the walk 2 hrs.).

Thence we ascend (guide) the (1 hr.) double-peaked =Monte Santi Deca=

(1862 ft.), where we have a superb view, notably of the Albanian coast.

A narrow path then descends, the last part through olive-groves, to (½

hr.) _Apano-Garuna_, and proceeds thence to the N. to (¼ hr.) the pass

of _San Teódoro_ or _Hagios Theódoros_ (788 ft.), where the carriage

quitted at Santi Deca may be ordered to meet us. The drive back to Corfu

viâ _Kamára_ takes 1½ hr.

The monastery of =Palæokastrizza= (‘old castle’), on the W. coast,

about 15 M. to the N.W., is a delightful point of view (carr. there

and back 20–25 dr., in 6 hrs., excl. stops). A road diverging to the

right about halfway, 1½ M. beyond the picturesque bay of _Govino_,

crosses the _Pheleka_ and leads over the fine _San Pantaleone Pass_

and through hill scenery to the N. coast. Far to the right, on the E.

coast, rises _Monte San Salvatore_ (Greek _Pantokrator_; 2998 ft.;

ascended with guide in 3 hrs. from _Spartilla_; carr. from Corfu to

Spartilla viâ Giovino, Ipso, and Pyrgi, in 2½ hrs., about 20 dr.).