The route is by the SHÂRIA MASR EL-KADÎMEH, the continuation of Shâria
Fum el-Khalîg (Pl. A, 7; p. 455). On the left, at its beginning, is a
hexagonal _Water Tower_, which once supplied an _Aqueduct_ (El-Kanâtir)
built by El-Ghûri (p. 449), extending to Bâb el-Karâfeh (Pl. E, 7), and
still traceable in its ruins, 66 ft. high.
About ¼ M. beyond the new Abbâs Bridge (p. 461) the Shâria Gâmia Amr, on
the left, leads to the picturesque old Coptic convent _Deir Abû Sefein_
and the Amru Mosque (see below).
From the tramway-terminus in the poor little town of _Old Cairo_ (Masr
el-Kadîmeh, p. 443) we follow the street to the Gîzeh steam-ferry (p.
461), turn to the left past the police-station, and in the Shâria
es-Saghîr to the left again. This brings us to _St. Georges_, a station
on the Helwân railway (see p. 439). On the E. side of the railway is the
site of—
=Babylon= (p. 443), a Roman castle, of which the only remains are parts
of the outer walls and a _Gateway_, on the S.W. side, with two
projecting towers.
Within the precincts of the ancient fortress now lies _Kasr esh-Shama_,
a village inhabited chiefly by Copts, with a synagogue, five mediæval
Coptic churches (_El-Moallaka_, _Abu Sergeh_, etc.), and the Greek
_Convent of St. George_ (W. side). One of the entrances is between the
convent and an old tower.
From the N.E. angle of the fortress, skirting the rubbish-mounds of
_Fostât_ (p. 443), we reach (10 min.) the Amru Mosque, surrounded by
cemeteries and potteries, where the porous kullehs are made, and
conspicuous by its red and white striped façade.
The =Gâmia Amr ibn el-Âsî=, commonly called the _Amru Mosque_ by
Europeans, is named after the general of caliph Omar (p. 443). It was
originally a small edifice built in 642, probably of crude bricks, but
it was repeatedly rebuilt or restored, as in 698 and 827, and notably by
Saladin in 1172, after the invasion of king Amalarich of Jerusalem and
the burning of Fostât in 1168. Other restorations took place in the
three following centuries. The two minarets are modern.
The INTERIOR, a slightly irregular rectangle, 132 by 108 yds., though
sadly ruinous, is of impressive dimensions. The six-aisled sanctuary
contains 21 series of arcades (with pointed arches) running towards
the kibla (prayer niche facing Mecca). The three outer rows of columns
on each side are continued by those of the N.E. and the S.W. lîwâns,
of which, however, the bases alone remain. The lîwân on the side of
the quadrangle next the entrance has a single arcade only. The Roman
and Byzantine columns from Memphis (p. 464), once 366 in number it is
said, have been utilized without regard to symmetry or congruity.
In the centre of the court, now planted with trees, is a hanefîyeh
(18th cent.). In the N. angle of the sanctuary is an uninteresting
monument over the supposed tomb of Sheikh Abdallah, son of Amr,
erected by Abbâs I. (1849–54). On the almost intact S.W. wall of the
sanctuary are curious wood-carvings, still purely Byzantine (9th
cent.).
=4.= The PYRAMIDS OF GÎZEH should be visited on a calm and clear day, as
the sand-drift is most trying in windy weather. (Umbrella or
dark-coloured spectacles advisable to protect the eyes from the glare.)
The excursion takes at least 4 hrs., or, including Sakkâra, a whole day.
Those who are pressed for time visit the Great Pyramid, the Sphinx, and
the Granite Temple only. (Tramway No. 1, see p. 440; carr. in 1–1¼ hr.,
p. 441.)
The tramway diverges at Old Cairo (p. 460), about 770 yds. to the S. of
the Water Tower, to the right from line No. 4, and crosses a branch of
the Nile to the island of =Rôda= (_Gezîret Rôda_), at the S. end of
which is the old _Nilometer_ (Arabic Mikyâs), dating from the time of
the Omaiyade caliph Suleimân (716), but often restored since.
We next cross the main channel of the Nile by the _Pont Abbâs II._
(opened 10–11 a.m. and 3.30 to 4.30 p.m. for the passage of vessels) to
the village of =Gîzeh= (Tues. market), at the N. end of which, about 550
yds. below the steam-ferry (p. 460), our tramway joins the branch from
Gezîreh (p. 457).
Leaving the Nile, and passing a station on the Upper Egyptian railway
(p. 463), we still have a run of 5 M., nearly due W., to the Pyramids,
the huge angular forms of which gradually become more distinct and soon
stand out in clear outlines.
The terminus of the tramway is near the large _Mena House Hotel_ (p.
440), on the N.E. border of the _Libyan Desert_. Adjacent is a Greek
restaurant. The road then ascends in a curve to the (½ M.) plateau of
the Pyramids.
Near the tramway-terminus is a station for donkeys and camels (5 pias.
per hour; see also pp. 173, 174).—The plateau is open to the public
and may be quite well explored without a guide. TICKETS of admittance
to the monuments themselves are sold at a stall next to the _Viceregal
Kiosque_, at the N.E. corner of the Great Pyramid. Guides (Bedouins)
also are obtained here on application to their sheikh (recognizable by
the rosette on his breast). Ticket for the ascent of the Great Pyramid
10 pias. (for the interior, also 10 pias.); for the other monuments 5
pias.; for the entire expedition, including the ascent of the Great
Pyramid and the visit to its interior, 20 pias.—Bakshîsh optional, but
it is usual to give a few piastres. No attention should be paid to
beggars or to vendors of ‘antiquities’. Unofficial guides who try to
thrust themselves on visitors should be repelled, with the aid of the
police if need be.
The **=Pyramids of Gîzeh= form the second and most imposing of the six
groups of pyramids extending along the border of the Libyan desert, in a
line of about 19 M. in length. To the N.W. is the _Abu Roâsh_ group,
towards the S.E. are the groups of _Zâwyet el-Aryân_, _Abusîr_ (p. 464),
_Sakkâra_ (p. 464), and _Dahshûr_ (p. 464). The Arabs call them _ahrâm_
(sing, _háram_).
The Pyramids of Gîzeh, creations of the 4th Dynasty (about B.C. 2850 to
2700), rank among the oldest monuments of human industry, and their
colossal proportions extort from us to-day the same astonishment that
was felt in antiquity by Greek and Roman travellers. We marvel both at
the technical skill shown by the Egyptians in their construction, and at
the might of the kings, who must have had the services of many thousands
of their subjects at command. The pyramids are believed to have been
built in layers. Each king at his accession began to erect his
tomb-pyramid on a small scale. If wealthy or long-lived he enlarged the
original design, and after his death the outer covering was added.
The **=Great Pyramid=, erected by Kheops or Cheops, the Khufu of the
Egyptians, was called by them _Yekhwet Khufu_ (the ‘glorious place of
Khufu’). Herodotus (II, 125) states that 100,000 men were employed for
three months every year in building it. The outer covering, with the
exception of a few fragments on the base below the entrance, has
disappeared. Each side is now 248 yds. in length (originally 255 yds.).
The perpendicular height is 450 ft. (once, to the apex, 480 ft.). The
sides rise at an angle of 51°50′. The solid content of the masonry,
deducting the nucleus of rock and the chambers in the interior, was
formerly about 3,302,500 (and is still about 3,081,100) cubic yards.
This stupendous structure is composed of yellowish limestone blocks,
quarried in the vicinity and containing numerous fossils, chiefly
nummulites (a kind of snail-shell), while the incrustation consisted of
blocks of a finer white limestone from the Mokattam quarries.
The ASCENT of the Pyramid, though free from danger, is very toilsome.
The visitor is helped up the steps, mostly 3 ft. high, by three
Bedouins, two holding his hands and the third pushing behind. We may
reach the top, a platform of 11 yds. square, in 10–15 min., but a more
leisurely ascent is advisable. The *View of the yellow sands and bare
rocks of the great desert-plateau, on which rise the Sphinx, the
smaller pyramids of Gîzeh, and the more distant tombs stretching as
far as Dahshûr, awakens solemn thoughts of death and eternity. At our
feet stretches a tract of rich arable land, luxuriantly clothed with
blue-green vegetation and entirely inundated in autumn. To the E.,
beyond the glittering river, rise the citadel of Cairo and the
warmly-coloured Mokattam hills.
The INTERIOR of the Pyramid will not interest ordinary travellers. The
air in the passages, hall, and tomb-chamber is hot and stifling and
makes the visit very disagreeable.
From the E. side of the Great Pyramid, where a _Temple_ for the cult of
the dead once stood, we walk past the _Three Small Pyramids_ of
relatives of Kheops to the Sphinx, which rises from the sand of the
desert some 350 yds. to the S.E.
The **=Sphinx=, the most famous monument in this vast burial-ground,
probably once a natural rock, has the form of a recumbent lion with the
head of a king (Khephren?), wearing a head-cloth adorned with the royal
serpent. In front of the breast is the image of a god, much
weather-worn. The head also is sadly mutilated, the nose and beard have
broken off, and the reddish tint which once enlivened the face has
almost entirely disappeared. But in spite of all injuries the monument
preserves a striking expression of strength and majesty. The eyes have a
pensive, faraway look, the lips wear a half-smile, and the whole face is
of graceful and beautiful type. The height of the monument, from the
pavement on which the fore-legs of the lion rest to the crown of the
head is about 66 ft.; its length, from the lion’s fore-paws to the root
of the tail, is about 186 ft. On the top of the head is a cavity.
Some 48 yds. to the S.E. of the Sphinx are the remains of the *=Granite
Temple=, or _Sphinx Temple_, a large building of hewn stone. It was once
the sacred entrance through which the Pyramid of Khephren (see below)
was approached from the valley below. The edifice is a fine example of
majestic simplicity, and the very hard stone has been treated with
marvellous skill. The exterior of the temple is buried in rubbish. The
two main halls are rectangular, and the beams of their ceilings rested
on granite pillars.
The CIRCUIT OF THE PYRAMID PLATEAU (1½–2 hrs.) is interesting. From
the Great Pyramid we walk to the W. to the great =Burial Ground= of
the relatives and officials of the royal family, as well as of the
priests and officials of the temples of the dead. The square tombs
(_mastabas_) are ranged in straight lines like streets, affording a
good example of an Egyptian necropolis. On the way we pass the Tomb of
_Shepses-kef-onekh_, dating from the 5th Dynasty (about 2700–2550
B.C.).
Through a cleft in the rock, near the _Quarry_ which yielded the stone
in the reign of Ramses II. for the temple of Heliopolis (p. 459), we
descend to the artificially levelled plateau of the—
=Second Pyramid=, Egyp. _Wer-Khefrē_ (‘great is Khefrē‘), built by
Khephren (Khefrē). Standing on higher ground, it looks larger than the
Pyramid of Kheops. Its perpendicular height is 447 (once 454) ft.;
each side is 230 (formerly 235) yds. in length; its sides rise at an
angle of 52°20′. The masonry has a solid content of 2,173,552 (once
2,445,377) cub. yds.
The foundations of the _Temple of the Dead_, on the E. side of the
pyramid, were excavated in 1908. On the W. side of the pyramid we
observe an _Inscription_ and several _Rock Tombs_. Adjacent is a mummy
shaft (caution advisable).
The road now leads to the S.W. to the =Third Pyramid=, Egyp.
_Neter-Menkewrē_ (‘divine is Menkewrē‘), built by Menkewrē, the
Mykerinos of Herodotus. Its perpendicular height is 204 (once 218)
ft., while its sides rise at an angle of 51°; each side of the base
measures 118 yds. The stones are unusually large. To the S. rise
_Three Small Pyramids_.
We next walk to the remains of the _Temple of the Dead_ to the E. of
the third pyramid and then follow the ancient paved track by which the
stones were once brought up from the Nile valley. On the way, among
several _Rock Tombs_, are the ruins of an unfinished pyramid. Passing
a very ruinous family burial-place of the 26th Dynasty, called
_Campbell’s Tomb_ after its discoverer, we now descend to the _Granite
Temple_ (see above), and walk to the N.W., past the _Sphinx_ (p. 462),
to the _Three Small Pyramids_ (p. 462) near the Pyramid of Kheops.
Lastly we may visit the _Rock Tombs_ of the Ancient Empire, near the
Arab village _Kafr el-Hâram_. The best-known, the ‘_Tomb of Numbers_‘,
contains badly preserved reliefs (counting of cattle).
=5.= The EXCURSION TO MEMPHIS AND SAKKÂRA is easily made in one day.
Provisions (supplied by the hotels in lieu of déjeuner), candles
(obtainable also at Bedrashein), and if possible an acetylene lamp
should be taken. We start early from the chief station (first train
usually at 7 a.m.) by the Upper Egyptian line for _Bedrashein_ (1 hr.;
fare 16½ or 8½ pias.), where donkeys are in waiting (to Sakkâra and back
10 pias.; bargain should be made in presence of the Bedouin sheikh). The
ride back takes fully 1½ hr. (train for Cairo at present 4.56 p.m.).
Tickets for the monuments (5 pias.) are sold by the custodians or at
_Mariette’s House_ (p. 465).
Robust travellers may ride from Sakkâra along the margin of the
desert, or viâ the pyramids of _Abusîr_, in 2½–3 hrs. to the _Mena
House Hotel_ (p. 461). The charge (15–20 pias.) should be agreed upon
with the donkey-boy at the Bedrashein station. In the reverse
direction we may go by tramway to Gîzeh (comp. p. 461), and ride
thence viâ the Pyramids of Gîzeh to Sakkâra (donkey 20, camel 30
pias.; comp. pp. 173, 174). Or we may drive in a desert-car (80 pias.)
from Mena House Hotel along the border of the desert to Sakkâra.
The RAILWAY, passing _Bûlâk_ (p. 454), runs to the N.W. and crosses the
_Nile_. 2 M. _Embâbeh_, noted for the ‘battle of the Pyramids’, in which
Bonaparte defeated the Mamelukes in 1798.—Describing a circuit the train
next comes to (6¼ M.) _Bûlâk ed-Dakrûr_, on a Nile canal. At (8 M.)
_Gîzeh_ (p. 461) we sight the Pyramids (p. 461) on the right, and then,
on the left, Old Cairo (p. 460) and the long range of the Mokattam (p.
454), continued to the S.E. by _Gebel Turra_. Next, on the left, is
_Gezîret Tirsâ_, an island in the Nile.
14½ M. _Abu Nemrûs._ On the right rise the hills bordering the Libyan
desert, with the pyramids of Abusîr. Beyond (17½ M.) _El-Hawamdîyeh_ the
step-pyramid (p. 465) is visible for a short time. To the left, at the
foot of Gebel Turra, lies _Helwân_ (_Hélouan_), a winter health-resort.
20½ M. =Bedrashein=, on the E. side of the railway.
From the railway-crossing we ride to the W., past the village (Wed.
market), by a road through green fields, which are entirely flooded in
autumn, to the (20 min.) palm-grove of Bedrashein.
In the foreground, shaded by palms, lies the site of =Memphis=, now a
heap of débris, the oldest capital of Egypt, founded under the name of
‘White Walls’ about 3400 B.C. by Menes, the first historical king. The
vast area of the ruins seems to have extended, down to the 12th cent.
A.D., as far as Gîzeh. The chief quarters of the city probably lay on
the fields of Bedrashein and _Mit-Rahîneh_.
The road forks 20 min. beyond Bedrashein. The SUMMER ROUTE, impassable
during the inundations, leads to the left in about 8 min. to the two
*_Colossal Statues of Ramses II._ (p. 456), both now prostrate, which
once stood at the entrance to the famous temple of Ptah. The first is 25
ft., or including the crown 31½ ft., long; the second, protected by a
mud-hut (adm. 4 pias.), is 42 ft. in length.
We now ride on, leaving the village of Mit Rahîneh at a little distance
to the right, towards the palm-grove of _Sakkâra_, at the foot of the
desert-plateau. On the yellow sand of the desert rise eleven pyramids.
To the extreme left (S.) is the necropolis of _Dahshûr_, where the
‘blunted pyramid’ or ‘pyramid of the two angles’ catches the eye. To the
right (to the N.W. of the huts of Sakkâra) rise the Onnos and
step-pyramids (see below).
Turning to the N. near Sakkâra, ½ hr. beyond the statues of Ramses, and
skirting the palm-grove, we ride towards the ruins of some mud-built
houses. The WINTER ROUTE from the bifurcation mentioned at p. 464 makes
a long bend to the N. and leads through the palm-grove of Bedrashein and
past the ruins of the brick houses of ancient Memphis; it then crosses a
sluice-bridge, passes on either side several ponds, and rejoins the
summer route.
We now ascend to the sandy plateau and overlook the *=Necropolis of
Sakkâra=. This vast area, about 4½ M. long from N. to S. and from 550 to
1600 yds. in breadth from E. to W., has afforded material for repeated
exploration.
We ride straight to the *_Step Pyramid_ (Arab. El-Hâram el-Mudarrag),
the great landmark of Sakkâra. This was the tomb of king Zoser (3rd
Dynasty, about 2900–2850 B.C.), and is still older than the pyramids of
Gîzeh. It is 196 ft. high, and each step recedes about 6½ ft.
About 330 yds. to the S.W. of the Step Pyramid rises the _Pyramid of
King Onnos_ (or Unis; about 2550 B.C.), which is easily scaled. The
view embraces all the pyramids from Dahshûr to Gîzeh. The central
chamber and burial-vault in the interior (shown by the custodian) are
full of hieroglyphic inscriptions, the oldest religious Egyptian text
known.
Beyond the Step Pyramid, in the direction of Mariette’s House, we
suddenly obtain a striking view of the pyramids of Abusîr and Gîzeh to
the N.; in the palm-shaded Nile valley, bordered by the yellowish-grey
desert, we observe in the distance the mosque of Mohammed Ali (p. 454).
When the road forks we ride to the left to the _Mastaba of Ptahhotep_,
the tomb of the highest state-official of a king of the 5th Dynasty
(about 2700–2550 B.C.). The interesting, delicately executed
wall-reliefs, like those of the almost contemporaneous mastaba of Ti (p.
466), are among the finest of the Ancient Empire but are imperfectly
lighted. The richest wall-decoration is in the sacrificial chamber
(funeral repast, rural scenes, etc.).
We now repair to _Mariette’s House_, a little to the N., where the
famous Egyptologist lived during the excavations. We rest and take
luncheon on the terrace here. (Custodians 2½–5 pias.; Arabian coffee
provided if desired.)
A few min. to the W. of Mariette’s house is the *_Serapeum_, with the
underground rock-tombs of the sacred bulls of the god Ptah.
Apis, the sacred bull, had a temple of his own at Memphis, and after
death was buried with great pomp. He represented man in a future state
as identified with the god Osiris, and his tomb was a favourite goal
of pilgrims. Hermits too sometimes lived in the narrow cells of the
tomb. After Ptolemy I. had introduced the cult of Serapis (p. 435)
into Egypt, this new god was identified with Osiris-Apis (Egyp.
Oser-hapē, Gr. Osorapis).
The temple over the Apis tombs has disappeared, and so too has a
second temple erected here by Nektanebos (358–341 B.C.), to which the
great sphinx avenue ascended from the plain below. The main passage to
the tombs, which was constructed by Psammetichos I. (663–609), is now
alone accessible. In the tomb-chambers are still preserved 24 of the
huge sarcophagi in which the mummies of the Apis bulls reposed.
The famous *_Mastaba of Ti_, to the N.E. of Mariette’s house, is still
deeply imbedded in the sand. This was the tomb of the royal architect of
king Nuserrē (5th Dyn.). The most beautiful of the reliefs are in the
tomb-chamber, which is entered from the road through two vestibules and
two passages. We note particularly, on the E. wall, Harvest and
Boat-building; on the S. wall, Sacrifices to the dead; on the N. wall,
*Scenes from life in the Delta marshes.
Those who do not intend to ride on to Gîzeh may, on their way back,
glance at the _Tomb of Merekura_, of the early 6th Dynasty, and at the
_Street of Tombs_ near it, of like date (including the _Tomb of
Enkhmē-Hor_, also called the ‘Tomb of the Physicians’, etc.)
For full details, see _Baedeker’s Egypt_.
=72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut= (_Smyrna_,
_Constantinople_) =viâ Jaffa=.
464 (or 261) M. STEAMERS (mostly small and old; agents at Alexandria,
see p. 432; at Port Said, p. 437; at Jaffa, p. 467; at Beirut, pp.
481, 482). =1.= _Messageries Maritimes_, S. Mediterranean line (coming
from Marseilles, and touching at Alexandria): from Port Said on Frid.
(returning Mon. or Tues.) to Beirut, alternately direct in 1 day and
viâ Jaffa in 2 days; fare from Port Said to Jaffa 35 or 25 fr., to
Beirut 65 or 55 fr.—=2.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (Trieste and Syria line;
comp. R. 68; touching at Alexandria): from Port Said on Mon. aft. viâ
Jaffa and Haifa to Beirut in ca. 2½ days (returning Thurs. night);
fare from Port Said to Jaffa 33 or 22 K, to Beirut 75 or 52 K.—=3.=
_Khedivial Mail Co._ (coming from Alexandria), from Port Said on Sun.
aft. viâ Jaffa and Haifa in ca. 1½ days to Beirut (going on, every
alternate week, to Alexandretta and Constantinople), returning from
Beirut Sun. foren.; fare from Port Said to Jaffa £ 1 E 35 pias. or £ E
1, to Beirut £ 2 E 60 pias. or £ E 2.—=4.= _Russian Steam Navigation &
Trading Co._ (Syria and Egypt circular line; coming from Alexandria),
from Port Said on Mon. or Sat. nights viâ Jaffa and Haifa in ca. 2
days to Beirut (going on to Smyrna and Constantinople), returning from
Beirut Tues. or Wed. aft.; fare 60 or 44 fr. (to Jaffa 36 or 26
fr.).—=5.= _German Levant Line_, cargo-steamers from Alexandria twice
monthly viâ Jaffa and Haifa to Beirut (comp. R. 65).—=6.= _Società
Nazionale_ (Lines VII, VII bis; coming from Alexandria), from Port
Said each monthly viâ Jaffa to Beirut in ca. 2 days.
As to passports, see p. 491; Turkish money, p. 536.
_Alexandria_, see p. 431; _Port Said_, see p. 436. The flat Egyptian
coast disappears soon after we leave Port Said.
Nearing Jaffa we survey the hill-country of _Judaea_, with the heights
around Jerusalem and (to the N.E.) the mountains of _Samaria_, The broad
coast-plain, flanked with low dunes, is the ancient _Peleshet_, the
‘plain’, stretching from the Egyptian frontier to Mt. Carmel (p. 468),
once inhabited by the _Philistines_ (Pelishtîm).
* * * * *
=Jaffa.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers anchor in the open roads. In winter,
when a westerly gale is blowing, it is often impossible to land.
Passengers must then go on to Haifa (p. 468) or to Beirut (p. 481).
The arrangements for landing are unsatisfactory; in rough weather as
much as 20 fr. is demanded. It is best to land in one of the boats
belonging to the hotels or tourist-agents (see below; 6–7 fr. to
station or to hotel, incl. baggage, on which a watchful eye should be
kept), and to decline the services of other boatmen or of porters and
dragomans (Arabic terjumân). The passport office and custom-house are
in the S. angle of the harbour. Customs examination, see p. 537.
RAILWAY STATION to the N.E. of the town, 1½ M. from the harbour.
HOTELS (charges should be ascertained at once; advisable to order
rooms beforehand in the height of the season). _Jerusalem Hotel_ and
_Hôt. du Parc_, both in the German colony, pens. 12½, in the quiet
season 8 fr.; _Hôt. Kaminitz_, in Rue Boustrous, leading to the German
colony; _Frank_, in the German colony, with restaurant.
TOURIST AGENTS. _Thos. Cook & Son_, opposite the Jerusalem
Hotel; _Clark_, in the Hôt. du Parc; _Dr. Benzinger_, at Frank’s
Hotel; _Hamburg-American Line_, _Agence Lubin_, both at the
harbour.—STEAMBOAT OFFICES all on the quay, to the N.E. of the
custom-house.
POST OFFICES. _Turkish_ in Rue Boustrous (also International
Telegraph); _German_ and _Austrian-Hungarian_, at the N.E. end of the
quay; _French_, farther to the N.E.; _Russian_, on the quay, opposite
the Quarantine Station.
CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _J. Falanga_.—United States Consular
Agent, _J. Hardegg_.
PHYSICIANS. _Dr. J. M. Keith_ (medical superintendent of the _English
Hospital_); _Dr. Lin_ (French); _Dr. Lorch_, _Dr. Saad_ (both German).
BANKS. _Anglo-Palestine Co._, _Banque Ottomane_, both in the Gaza
Road; _German Palaestina-Bank_, _Crédit Lyonnais_, both on the quay.
ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICES, on Sun. at 9.30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.
CARRIAGES. Drive 1 beshlik (3½ pias.); ½ day 10, day 20 fr.; to
Jerusalem (7–8 hrs.) in the season 50–60 fr. (single seat 10–15 fr.),
to Haifa (1½–2 days), 100–140 fr., according to weather.
_Jaffa_, Arabic _Yâfâ_, Gr. _Joppa_ (pop. 47,000, viz. about 30,000
Moslems, 10,000 Christians, and 7000 Jews), originally a Phœnician
colony in the land of the Philistines, is mentioned as early as the
reign of Solomon (p. 472) as the seaport of Jerusalem. The Maccabees (p.
472) brought it under Jewish domination. During the Crusades it was
repeatedly wrested from the Christians, and in 1267 it was destroyed by
the Mameluke sultan Beybars. In 1799 the town was stormed by the French
under Kléber (p. 444).
The old town rises on a rock 118 ft. high, behind the _Quay_, built
towards the end of the 17th century. Its streets are very dusty and in
wet weather muddy.
The quay and its prolongation, the main arteries of traffic, lead in a
curve towards the E. to the _Market_ (Sûk), where the Semitic type of
the inhabitants is very noticeable.
Beyond this market is a public garden with a _Clock Tower_ erected by
the town of Jaffa to commemorate the 25th year of the reign of the now
deposed Sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909), and several Arabian cafés. The
Gaza road leads thence to the right through the S. suburb. The Jerusalem
road leads straight on through the new town and a number of
orange-groves; after 12 min. a road diverges to the left to the Russian
settlement, where we are shown the site of the house of _Tabitha_ and
her rock-tomb (Acts ix. 35). The Rue Boustrous leads to the left to the
railway-station and the pleasant houses of the _German Colony_, founded
in 1868 (about 350 inhab., chiefly of the ‘Temple’ sect).
A second colony of these Templars is _Sarona_, 1 M. to the N.E.,
behind the dunes, in the coast-plain of _Sharon_ between Jaffa and
Cæsarea, famed ever since ancient times for its fertility. The vine in
particular thrives here admirably.
* * * * *
Beyond Jaffa the STEAMER soon passes the mouth of the _Nahr el-Aujâ_,
the largest river in Palestine next to the Jordan, and then, near the N.
boundary of Judæa, the site of _Apollonia_ (now _Arsûf_). Farther on we
sight the scanty ruins of _Caesarea Palaestina_ (Arabic
_El-Kaisarîyeh_), a seaport founded by Herod the Great, which in the
Roman period surpassed Jerusalem.
Beyond the _Nahr ez-Zerkâ_ (‘blue river’, p. xxxiii), the _Crocodile
River_ of Pliny, come the little town of _Tantûra_, the _Dor_ of the Old
Testament, which classical authors say was a Phœnician colony, and then
_Atlît_, the _Castellum Peregrinorum_ of the Crusaders, the seat of the
Knights Templar in 1218–91, with its grand ruins.
The beautiful outlines of *_Mt. Carmel_ (1811 ft.; _Jebel Mâr Elyâs_,
‘sacred mount of Elijah’) become more distinct. On the hill-side is the
_Carmelite Monastery_ (558 ft.), the original seat of the order, which
extended its sphere to Europe in 1238. Below it, on the evergreen N.
slope of the range, rises a _Lighthouse_.
Most of the steamers call at the open roads of =Haifa= or _Khaifa_ (Hôt.
Karmel or Krafft, pens. 8–10 fr.; carr. at the tourist-office of Unger &
Hermann, at G. Sus’s, etc.; Brit. vice-cons., P. Abela; U. S. cons.
agent, Th. Struve; pop. 16,000), a rapidly rising commercial town,
beautifully situated at the N. base of Mt. Carmel and on the S. shore of
the _Bay of Acre_, not far from the site of the _Sycaminum_ of
antiquity. The trade is chiefly in the hands of the German ‘Temple’
sect, whose settlement presents a striking contrast to the prevailing
Oriental squalor.
A ROAD leads from Haifa viâ _Atlît_ and _Tantûra_ (see above), and
then inland viâ the Jewish agricultural colony of _Zammarín_ (Hôt.
Graff) and _Kakûn_ (410 ft.) to =Nàbulus= or _Nâblus_ (1870 ft.; Hôt.
Nablus, German,) once _Sichem_, the capital of _Samaria_. After the
war of 67 A.D. (p. 472) it was re-founded by Vespasian as _Flavia
Neapolis_. It is now a town of 27,000 inhab. (incl. 700 Christians and
170 members of the Samaritan sect). Fine view from _Mt. Gerizim_ (2848
ft.; Arab. _Jebel et-Tôr_), to the S. of the town. A new road leads
from Nâbulus, past _Jacob’s Well_ (St. John, iv. 5–30), viâ
_El-Lubban_ and _El-Bireh_, to _Jerusalem_ (p. 470).
FROM HAIFA VIÂ DERÂT TO DAMASCUS, 177 M., Railway. One train daily in
10 hrs.; fares, 1st cl., 142½, 3rd cl. 65½ pias. (note exchange at
rail. stat.: 1 mejidieh = 19 pias.; 20 fr. = 86½ pias.; £ 1 = 109¼
pias.; £ 1 Turkish = 96 pias.). Most travellers, however, prefer the
following profoundly interesting route, joining the train at _Samakh_
(p. 469).
We drive from Haifa to (24 M.) _Nazareth_ (1145 ft.; Hôt. Germania,
pens. 8–12½ fr.), the home of Christ, whence the Christians in the
Levant are still called Nazarenes (Nasâra). Then past _Mt. Tabor_
(1844 ft.; _Jebel et-Tor_; fine view), the traditional scene of the
Transfiguration, and _Kafr Kennâ_, the _Cana_ of the Bible (St. John,
ii), to (4½ hrs.) =Tabarîya= (82 ft. below sea-level; Hôt. Tiberias or
Grossmann, pens. 10–12½ fr.; pop. 7500, incl. many Polish Jews), the
ancient _Tiberias_, once the capital of _Galilee_, and, after the
destruction of Jerusalem (p. 472), the chief seat of the Jewish
nation. It lies high up on the W. bank of the _Lake of Gennesaret_, or
_of Tiberias_, or _Sea of Galilee_ (682 ft. below sea-level; 13 M.
long, 7½ M. broad), through which flows the _Jordan_. During half of
the year the climate in this profound Syrian valley is extremely hot.
From Tiberias we row down the lake in 2 hrs. to the rail. station of
_Samakh_ (610 ft. below sea-level; 54½ M. from Haifa). The train
ascends the *_Yarmuk Valley_ to (100 M.) _Derât_ (1735 ft. above
sea-level; Buffet), where it joins the main Hejâz line to _Damascus_
(p. 484; Kadem station).—For details, see _Baedeker’s Palestine and
Syria_.
Beyond Haifa all the steamers skirt the coast of ancient _Phoenicia_ at
some distance from land, as the cliffs here endanger navigation, but the
numerous small headlands, bays, and islands adapt it admirably for
settlement. It once extended, far beyond Beirut, to the river
_Eleutheros_, now _Nahr el-Kebîr_.
From afar we sight the lighthouse and forts of _Akka_ or _Acre_, the
ancient _Akko_ (later _Ptolemais_). In 1104 it became the naval station
of the Crusaders. Taken by Saladin in 1187 it was recaptured by Richard
Cœur-de-Lion in 1191 and for a century was a great bulwark of
Christianity. Under the name of _St. Jean d’Acre_ it was the seat of the
knights of St. John (p. 475) after their expulsion from Jerusalem. Far
to the N.E. rises _Mt. Hermon_ (p. 489).
Beyond the white _Râs el-Nâkûra_, the ancient _Scala Tyriorum_, and _Râs
el-Abyad_, the _Promontorium Album_ of Pliny, we sight a low headland on
which lies the poor little town of =Sûr=, with a ruined church of the
Crusaders, ruins of their fortifications, and a lighthouse. This was the
ancient seaport of _Tyre_, once situated on two islands, but connected
with the mainland by an embankment built by Alexander during his famous
siege (332 B.C.).
Farther on we pass the mouth of the _Nahr el-Lîtânî_ (p. 483), here
called _Nahr el-Kâsimîyeh_, and obtain a fine view of the coast-region
in front of _Lebanon_; to the E. rise _Jebel er-Rihân_ and _Tômât Nîhâ_
(6070 ft.; ‘twins of Nîhâ’), snow-capped in winter, and to the N.E. the
distant _Jebel Sannîn_ (p. 483).
Beyond _Sarafant_ (ancient _Zarpath_ or _Sarepta_) opens the broad bay
of =Saida=, formerly _Sidon_, the oldest and, next to Tyre, greatest
port of the Phœnicians, now girdled by rich vegetation.
Passing the mouth of the _Nahr el-Auwâlî_ (ancient _Bostrenus_) and the
_Râs er-Rumeileh_, the N. limit of the bay of Saida, we come to the
far-projecting _Râs ed-Dâmûr_ and the _Nahr ed-Dâmûr_, the ancient
_Tamyras_, which in winter is one of the most copious rivers in the
Lebanon region. Near Beirut begin the mulberry and olive groves and the
vineyards of the fertile coast-plain.
We round the reddish hills of _Râs Beirût_ (p. 483), with the pigeons’
grottoes and lighthouse, and enter _Beirut_ harbour (p. 481).