BETWEEN VENICE AND ALEXANDRIA (1423 M.), _Società Nazionale_ (Line
VII: Venice, Alexandria, Port Said) on the 14th and 28th of every
month (returning 1st and 15th), viâ Ancona, Bari, and Brindisi, in 5–6
days; fare 280 fr. 95 or 191 fr. 30 c. (from Brindisi 195 fr. 25 or
132 fr. 15 c.). Agents at Venice, see p. 420; at Brindisi, p. 429; at
Alexandria, p. 432.
BETWEEN TRIESTE AND ALEXANDRIA (1383 M.), _Austrian Lloyd_, two lines:
1st. Quick steamer from Trieste on Thurs. noon (from Brindisi Frid.
aft.), in ca. 4 days (returning from Alexandria Sat. aft., from
Brindisi Tues. foren.); fare 360 or 245 fr. (from Brindisi 300 or 200
fr.). 2nd. Trieste and Syria Line (R. 72), on Sat. foren., viâ Gravosa
(occasionally) and Brindisi, in 5 days (returning Thurs. aft.); fare
250 or 175 fr. (from Brindisi 200 or 135 fr.). Agents at Trieste, see
p. 425; at Brindisi, p. 429; at Alexandria, p. 432.
[Illustration: VENEZIA]
BETWEEN TRIESTE AND PORT SAID, _Austrian Lloyd_, Syrian Line, see
above; also the Bombay steamers (usually 1st and 16th of every month;
to Port Said in 4 days), the Calcutta steamers (12th and 25th of each
month; 6 days), and the Japan steamers (27th of each month; 6 days).
Agent at Port Said, see p. 437.
From Brindisi to Port Said, _P. & O._ on Sun. morn., corresponding
with Calais and Brindisi express, chiefly for through-passengers to
India.
=Venice.=—At the RAILWAY STATION (Pl. C, D, 3; Restaurant, good),
where care of heavier luggage may be left to the hotel porters, are a
gondola station and two piers for the local steamers (see
below).—Agents for sleeping-cars, _Thos. Cook & Son_ and _P. Faerber_
(see p. 420).
ARRIVAL BY SEA. The steamers anchor in the Canale di San Marco,
opposite the Punta della Salute (Pl. G, 6). Custom-house examination
on board. Gondola tariff, see below.
=Hotels.= HÔT. ROYAL DANIELI (Pl. a; H, 5), on the Riva degli
Schiavoni with its fine views, R. 7–30, B. 2, déj. 4, D. 7–10, pens.
15–25 fr.; *HÔT. DE L’EUROPE (Pl. b; G, 6), on the Canal Grande,
entrance Calle del Ridotto, R. 5–8, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7, pens. 14–18
fr., frequented by American and French travellers; GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. o
; F, 6), on the Canal Grande, entr. Via Ventidue Marzo, Ramo Minotto
2322, R. 7–30, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 7 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. BRITANNIA (Pl. c; G,
6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Corte Barozzi, similar charges;
four high-class houses.—Less pretending: *GR.-HÔT. D’ITALIE (Pl. h; G,
6), in Campo San Moisè and on the Canal Grande, R. 3½–15, B. 1½, déj.
3½, D. 5–6 fr., often full; *GRAND CANAL HOTEL & MONACO (Pl. l; G, 6),
on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Vallaresso, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4,
D. 6 fr.; *HÔT. REGINA (Pl. t; G, 6), also on the Canal Grande, entr.
Calle Traghetto, R. 5–18, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., frequented by
English and American travellers; HÔT. DE MILAN & BRISTOL (Pl. u; G,
6), also on the Canal Grande, entr. Calle Traghetto, R. from 4, B. 1½,
déj. 3–3½, D. 4½–5 fr.; HÔT. BEAU-RIVAGE (Pl. r; H, I, 5), Riva degli
Schiavoni, R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr., patronized by English
and American travellers.
=Restaurants.= *_Bauer-Grünwald_, Via Ventidue Marzo, adjoining the
Gr.-Hôt. d’Italie; _Pilsen_, in the Moderne Hôt. Manin, N.W. corner of
the Piazza of St. Mark.
=Cafés.= _Florian_, _Aurora_, _Quadri_, all in the Piazza of St.
Mark.—TEA ROOM. _Ortes_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2288.
=Gondolas=, the famous and picturesque boats which are the cabs of
Venice, have their chief station on the Molo (Pl. H, 6; p. 422).
Tariff: in the town, per hour, 1–2 pers. 1½, 3–4 pers. 2, 5–6 pers. 2½
fr. (after dusk ½ fr. extra); half these charges for each addit. ½
hr.; from the _Molo_ to the sea-going steamers, or the reverse, 20 c.
each passenger; trunk 20, small packages 5 c.—A boat with two
_gondolieri_ costs double. (As a rule one, ‘basta uno’, is enough.) In
case of dispute with the boatmen, often insolent and especially
towards ladies travelling alone, a _vígile municipale_ (policeman) may
be applied to.
The =Local Steamers= (_Vaporetti Comunali_), which do not carry
luggage, ply (except in fog) on the main line through the Canal Grande
every 10–15 min., from 6 a.m. till midnight; fare 10, to the Lido 20
c. (money changed on board; fare paid on landing). The chief
landing-stages (_Pontoni_), beginning from the station, are: 1.
_Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3), near the exit from the station; 2. _Cerva_, Riva
del Carbón (Pl. G, 4), for the Rialto bridge (p. 421) and streets (p.
421) leading to St. Mark’s; 3. _San Tomà_ (Pl. E, 5), for the church
of the Frari (p. 422); 4. _Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6), for the
picture-gallery (p. 422); 5. _San Marco_ (Pl. G, 6; near the Calle
Vallaresso), for St. Mark’s; 6. _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, 5), for the
Riva degli Schiavoni and St. Mark’s; 7. _Giardini Pubblici_ (Pl. L,
7); 8. _Lido_ (p. 424; April-Oct. only). In the reverse direction the
steamers call at the _Riva del Carbón_ (Pl. G, 4) instead of Cerva,
and at _Santa Lucia_, close to the entrance to the railway-station
(see above), instead of Scalzi.
A minor line connects the Riva degli Schiavoni (comp. Pl. H, 5, 6)
with the islands of _San Giorgio Maggiore_ (Pl. H, I, 7; p. 424) and
_Giudecca_; in April-Sept. every ½ hr., in winter hourly.
A third line plies from the Riva degli Schiavoni (dep. near the Ponte
della Paglia, Pl. H, 5, 6) direct to the _Lido_, every 20–30 min.
Ticket 15, return 25 c.; or, incl. adm. to bath-house 40 c., incl.
bath 1 fr. 30 c.
=Post Office.= Fóndaco dei Tedeschi (Pl. G, 4; p. 421), near the
Rialto bridge, 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.; poste restante in the court, on the
left.—=Telegraph Office= (Pl. G, 6; also branch post-office), Bocca di
Piazza, behind the W. side of St. Mark’s Piazza.
=Banks.= _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Via Ventidue Marzo 2188;
_Società Bancaria Italiana_, San Marco, Bocca di Piazza 1239; _Guetta_
(_American Express Co._), Campo San Moisè; _Thos. Cook & Son_, see
below.—BOOKSELLER. _Istituto Veneto di Arti Gráfiche_, Piazza San
Marco 40.
=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Piazzetta dei Leoni 289 (N. side
of San Marco); _P. Faerber_, in Hôt. d’Italie (p. 419), also
town-agent for the railway.
=Steamboat Agents.= _North German Lloyd_, Piazza San Marco 118;
_Hamburg-American_ (for winter pleasure-cruises by ‘Meteor’), P.
Faerber, see above; _Società Nazionale_, Campo Morosini 2802;
_Austrian Lloyd_, for the Venice and Trieste Line (p. 425), in the
Piazzetta (p. 423); _Hungarian Croatian Co._, Thos. Cook & Son (see
above).
=Consuls.= British, _E. de Zuccato_, Traghetto San Felice, Grand
Canal.—United States Consul, _J. V. Long_, Campiello Querini
Stampaglia 5257.
=Churches.= _English_ (_St. George’s_), Campo San Vio 731;
_Presbyterian_, Piazza of St. Mark 95.
ONE DAY may suffice for a hurried glance, but a week or more should if
possible be devoted to this unique city. Sail through the _Grand
Canal_; inspection of the piazza and the church of _St. Mark_ and the
_Doges’ Palace_ (p. 423).—Of the _Churches_ St. Mark’s (p. 423) is
open throughout the day, Santi Giovanni e Paolo (p. 424) and Frari (p.
422) save from 12–2 (adm. in the afternoon, till their restoration is
completed, 50 c.). The _Doges’ Palace_ is open on week-days, 9–3 (adm.
1 fr., or incl. visit to the Archæological Museum and the Prigioni 2½
fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free. _Academy_ (p. 422) on week-days
9–4 (adm. 1 fr.), on Sun. and holidays 10–2, free.
_Venice_, Ital. _Venezia_, once the most brilliant commercial city in
the world, now a provincial capital, with 148,500 inhab., of whom one
quarter are practically paupers, is a commercial and naval port. It lies
2½ M. from the mainland in the lagoons, a shallow bay 25 M. long by 9½
M. broad, separated from the Adriatic by narrow sandy strips of land
(_lidi_). The city is built on piles, on 117 islets, and is intersected
by over 150 canals, which are crossed by 378 bridges. The interior of
the town consists of a labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes, some of
them scarcely 5 ft. wide. The centre of traffic is the _Piazza San
Marco_ (‘la Piazza’), with the adjacent _Piazzetta_. The other open
spaces are called _campi_ or _campielli_. The local name for a street is
_calle_ or _salizzada_, and for a narrow canal _rio_.
The tribe of the _Veneti_, the ancient inhabitants of N.E.Italy, were
of Illyrian race, but became Romanized in the 3rd cent. B. C. The
havoc committed on the mainland by the barbarian Huns compelled the
inhabitants of the coast to seek refuge in the islands of the lagoons,
where in 697 they formed the Venetian League, headed by a doge
(_dux_). In 811 _Rivoalto_ (now Venice) became their capital. Aided by
its close connection with the Byzantine Empire (p. 541), the town rose
to be a rival of Genoa in its important traffic between East and West.
In its art also Venice was under Oriental influence throughout the
middle ages. After the conquest of Constantinople by the great doge
_Enrico Dandolo_ in 1204, the lion of St. Mark laid his mighty talons
on the coasts and islands of Greece and Asia Minor. On the Italian
continent also the republic gradually extended its conquests to
Bergamo.
The 15th cent. saw the zenith of the republic’s glory, when her fleet
commanded the whole of the E. Mediterranean. But after their capture
of Constantinople in 1453 the Turks began to menace the Venetian
supremacy. The discovery of America and of the new sea-routes to India
carried the world’s traffic into new channels, while her continental
possessions involved her in the wars between the rival powers of
France, Austria, and Spain. Her protracted conflicts with the Turks
led in 1718 to the final loss of all her Oriental possessions, and in
1798 her political independence was destroyed by the French. From 1814
to 1866 Venice belonged to Austria, and since 1866 has formed a part
of the kingdom of Italy, under whose auspices her trade has somewhat
revived.
The *=Canal Grande= or _Canalazzo_, the main artery of Venice,
intersects the city from the _Railway Station_ (Pl. C, D, 3) to the
harbour (_Canale_ or _Bacino di San Marco_, Pl. G-K, 6, 7), from N.W. to
S.E., and resembles an inverted _S_ in shape. The voyage through it by
steamer (p. 419; 25 min.) or by gondola (p. 419; 1 hr., preferable)
conveys a most striking impression of the magnificence of mediæval
Venice. The canal is bordered with fine old guild-houses, sumptuous
churches, and stately palaces of the 12–18th cent., and each of its
bends reveals a new and picturesque vista.
LEFT. │ RIGHT.
│
_Chiesa degli Scalzi_ (Pl. D, 3; │
church of the barefooted friars), │
in the highly ornate baroque style │
(1649–89). │
│
│_Fóndaco dei Turchi_ (Pl. E, 3;
│‘trade hall of the Turks’), a late
│Romanesque edifice (11th cent.),
│restored in 1861–9, now the _Museo
│Civico_.
*_Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi_ (Pl. │
E, F, 3), the most beautiful │
early-Renaissance palace in Venice │
(1509), in which Richard Wagner │
died in 1883. │
│
│_Palazzo Pésaro_ (Pl. F, 3), the
│most brilliant example of
│late-Renaissance (1679), now the
│_Gallería d’Arte Moderna_.
*_Cà Doro_ (Pl. F, 3), the most │
elegant Gothic palace (15th cent.).│
│
_Fóndacodei Tedeschi_ (Pl. G, 4; p.│
420), once the warehouse of the │
Germans (1505). │
The *_Ponte di Rialto_ (Pl. G, 4; ‘Rivo Alto’, the ancient name of
Venice; comp. p. 420), is a marble arch of 29½ yds. span and 74 ft. in
breadth, flanked with shops (1588–92).
Near the bridge are the │
steamboat-piers of Cerva and Riva │
del Carbón (p. 419), whence the │
_Mercería_ (Pl. G, 4, 5), a street │
of shops, and the Calle dei Fabbri │
(Pl. G, 5) both lead in 5 min. to │
_St. Mark’s_. │
│
_Pal. Loredan_ (Pl. F, 5) and _Pal.│
Farsetti_, once Dándolo, both │
Romanesque (12th cent.). │
│
*_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance, │_Pal. Papadópoli_ (16th cent.).
Sanmicheli’s masterpiece (16th │
cent.). │
│
│_Pal. Pisani_ (_a San Polo_),
│Gothic (15th cent.).
│
_Pal. Corner-Spinelli_, │_Pal. Grimani_, high-Renaissance
early-Renaissance, in the style of │(16th cent.).
the Lombardi. │
│
│Near it is steamboat pier San Tomà
│(Pl. E, 5; p. 419), for the old
│Franciscan church *_Frari_ (Pl. E,
│5; adm., see p. 420; ticket valid
│also for San Tomà), in the Gothic
│style (1380–1417), the
│resting-place of many eminent
│Venetians, with admirable
│altar-pieces by Giov. Bellini and
│Titian (temporarily in _San Tomà_,
│close by; adm. 9–5, ticket 50 c.
│admitting also to the Frari
│church).
│
│*_Pal. Fóscari_ (Pl E, 5), Gothic
│(15th cent.).
│
│_Pal. Rezzonico_ (Pl E, 6), built
│in 1680. Robert Browning died here
│in 1889.
Between the Campo San Vitale (Vidal) and the Campo della Carità is the
_Ponte di Ferro or dell’Accadémia_ (Pl. E, 6).
│Near the bridge is steamboat pier
│Accadémia (p. 419) for the
│*_Accadémia di Belle Arti_ (Pl. E,
│6), containing admirable Venetian
│pictures (G. Bellini, Carpaccio,
│Titian, P. Veronese). Adm., see p.
│420.
│
_Pal. Cavalli_ (Pl. E, 6), now │
_Franchetti_, Gothic (15th. cent.).│
│
_Pal. Corner della Cà Grande_ (Pl. │
F, 6), by Jac. Sansovino (1532). │
│
_Pal. Contarini-Fasan_ (Pl. F, G, │*_Santa Maria della Salute_ (Pl. F,
6), Gothic (14th cent.). │G, 6), by Bald. Longhena (17th
│cent.); fine pictures by Titian in
│the sacristy.
│
│_Dogana di Mare_ (Pl. G, 6),
│custom-house (1676–82), on the
│point between the Grand and the
│_Giudecca_ canals.
│
_Giardino Reale_ (Pl. G, 6), or │
royal garden, behind the Procuratie│
Nuove (p. 423). │
│
_Molo_ (Pl. H, 6), adjoining the │
Piazzetta (p. 423). │
From the Molo, or from one of the steamboat-piers (p. 419) of San Marco
(Pl. G, 6) or San Zaccaria (Pl. H, 5), we next visit the **=Piazza di
San Marco= (Pl. G, 5), the centre of the traffic of the city. Even now
this far-famed piazza (182 yds. long, 100 yds. wide at the E. end, 61 at
the W. end; paved with slabs of trachyte and marble) conveys an
admirable idea of the ancient glory of Venice.
On the N. and S. sides of the piazza rise the PROCURATÍE, once the
residences of the nine procurators or highest officials of the republic.
The _Procuratíe Vecchie_, on the N. side, were erected in 1480–1517. The
_Procuratíe Nuove_, now used along with the adjacent old Library (see
below) as a royal palace, were begun by Vinc. Scamozzi in 1584. The
_Atrio_ or _Nuova Fábbrica_, on the W. side, dates only from 1810. The
groundfloors of these buildings, flanked with arcades, are now occupied
by cafés (p. 419) and shops.
The old CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO, at the corner of the Old Library,
collapsed in 1902, but has been rebuilt. The top of the tower (adm. 15
c.) commands a fine and extensive *View. The _Torre dell’ Orologio_, a
clock-tower built in 1496–9, adjoining the Old Procuratie, forms the
entrance to the _Mercería_ (p. 421).
The church of **=San Marco= (Pl. H, 5), which is said to contain the
bones of St. Mark, was begun in 830, rebuilt after a fire in 976, and
restored after the middle of the 11th cent. in the Byzantine style. The
ground-plan (83½ yds. long, 56¾ yds. broad in front) is in the form of a
Greek cross (with equal arms), crowned with five domes. The front arm of
the cross is flanked with a colonnade. Outside and inside the church is
adorned with over five hundred marble columns, mostly Oriental, and with
mosaics, chiefly of the 10–16th centuries. The Gothic additions to the
façade (15th cent.) enhance its fantastic charm. Over the main portal
are four antique bronze-gilt horses from Constantinople.
The INTERIOR is wonderfully impressive. The beauty of the outlines and
the magnificence of the decoration are equally striking. The priceless
_Pala d’Oro_, which forms the altar-piece, from Constantinople (1105),
is shown on week-days (11–2; ticket, 50 c., admits also to the
_Tesoro_ in the right transept, 11–2).
Adjoining the Piazza of St. Mark, on the side next the lagoon, is the
*=Piazzetta= (Pl. H, 5, 6). The *_Librería Vecchia_, or old library, now
part of the royal palace (see above), by Jac. Sansovino (1536–53), is
one of the most beautiful secular buildings in Italy. The adjacent
_Zecca_ (mint) now contains the famous library of San Marco. On the
opposite (E.) side of the square rises the—
**=Doges’ Palace= (_Palazzo Ducale_; Pl. H, 5), which is said to have
been founded in 814 as the residence of the first doge. It was rebuilt
after the fires of 976 and 1105, and has since been repeatedly restored
and altered. The Gothic exterior is flanked with two superb arcades with
pointed arches; the W. front dates from 1423–8; the S. front, next the
lagoon, is of the 14th century.
The _Porta della Carta_, the late-Gothic chief portal, next to the
church, leads into the quadrangle of the palace, where the façades,
though still partly Gothic, show the influence of the new Renaissance
style. In the interior (adm., see p. 420) we visit the central and upper
floors, containing the state-apartments which were redecorated after the
fires of 1574 and 1577, a brilliant example of the Venetian
late-Renaissance and rococo art. The countless pictures by Titian, Paolo
Veronese, Jac. Tintoretto, and other masters, proclaim the ancient glory
of Venice. (Guide unnecessary. Catalogues for public use on week-days.)
The groundfloor contains the _Archaeological Museum_ (antiques,
Renaissance sculptures, etc.).
At the E. end of the Molo (p. 422) the _Ponte della Paglia_ (Pl. H, 5,
6), which crosses the _Rio di Palazzo_, affords a good view of the
‘Bridge of Sighs’ (_Ponte dei Sospiri_; Pl. H, 5), specially interesting
to readers of Childe Harold. The latter bridge connects the Doges’
Palace with the _Prigioni di San Marco_.
The contiguous =Riva degli Schiavoni= (Pl. H, I, 5; ‘quay of the
Slavonians’) forms the sunniest promenade in the town. To the left,
nearly opposite the _Monument of Victor Emmanuel II._, a narrow lane
leads to the church of _San Zaccaria_ (Pl. H, I, 5; adm. in the
afternoon 50 c.), built in 1458–1515. Over the second altar on the left
is a Madonna by Giov. Bellini (1505).
A few paces to the W. of the church is Campo San Provolo. The street of
that name to the right, the first bridge to the left, and then the Calle
Corte Rotta and the Ruga Giuffa (Pl. H, 5) lead to _Santa Maria Formosa_
(Pl. H, 4; knock at W. portal; gratuity 25–30 c.), with the famous *St.
Barbara by Palma Vecchio.
From the Campo Santa Maria Formosa we follow the Calle Lunga to the E.,
and near the end of it the Calle Bragadin to the left (N.) to the—
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, with the *_Monument of Colleoni_ (Venetian
condottiere, d. 1475), the grandest equestrian statue of the Italian
Renaissance, by the Florentine Andrea Verrocchio.
The church of *_Santi Giovanni e Paolo_ (Pl. H, 4; adm. see p. 420),
once the church of the Dominicans and the burial-church of the doges,
erected in the Gothic style in 1330–90, is quite a museum of Venetian
sculpture. The finest monument is that of Andrea Vendramin (d. 1478; in
the choir, on the left), by Tullio and Ant. Lombardi and Al. Leopardi.
On the S. side of the _Canale di San Marco_ (p. 421), reached by ferry
from the Molo (‘traghetto’, 1–2 pers. 15, 3–4 pers. 20, 5–6 pers. 30
c.), or more quickly by steamer from the Riva degli Schiavoni (see p.
419), are the island and the Benedictine church of =San Giorgio
Maggiore= (Pl. H, 7; if closed, ring on the right), built by Palladio
(1565) and Ant. Palliari. The _Campanile_, 197 ft. high (ascent to the
left of the choir; easy wooden stairs), offers a superb **View of the
city, the lagoons, and the sea, embracing in clear weather the Alpine
chain far away to the N. (finest in the early morning or just before
sunset).
[Illustration: TRIESTE]
[Illustration: CHIARBOLA]
The =Lido=, the most fashionable sea-bathing place in Italy (height of
season July and Aug.), is reached either by the direct steamers or by
those coming from the railway-station (p. 419, 420). An electric
tramway connects the pier with the _Bath Establishment_
(café-restaurant) and with the large hotels on the shore.—See also
_Baedeker’s Northern Italy_.
* * * * *
=Trieste.=—=Railway Stations=, 1. _Stazione Meridionale_ (S. Station;
Pl. B, C, 2; buffet), 10 min. to the N. of the Piazza della Borsa, for
Vienna, Abbazia and Fiume, and Cervignano (Venice).—2. _Stazione dello
Stato_ or _di Sant’ Andrea_ (State Railway Station; Pl. A, 6), at the
S. end of the Old Harbour (p. 426), 15 min. to the S.W. of the Piazza
della Borsa, for the Tauern Railway, and for Assling and Vienna. Cabs,
see below; hotel-omnibus 1 _K_.
=Arrival by Sea.= The _Austrian Lloyd_ steamers anchor in the New
Harbour (p. 426), at Moles I-III, near the Dogana (Pl. B, 2, 3) and
the S. Station, or at the Molo San Carlo (Pl. B, 4; excursion-steamer
‘Thalia’).
=Hotels.= GRAND-HÔTEL, Riva dei Mandracchio, adjoining the Lloyd
Palace (p. 426), a first-class house, to be opened in 1911; HÔT. DE LA
VILLE (Pl. a; C, 4), Riva Carciotti, with first-class restaurant, high
charges, variously judged; HÔT. VOLPICH ALL’ AQUILA NERA (Pl. d; C,
4), with good café-restaurant, R. 3–8 _K_, B. 1 _K_ 20 _h_, D. 3 _K_,
HÔT. TONIATO (Pl. h; C, 4), R. 3–10 _K_, both Via San Nicolò, good;
HÔT. BALKAN (Pl. c; C, 3), Piazza della Caserma, R. from 3 _K_, B. 70
_h_, D. 2 _K_ 80 _h_; HÔT. VANOLI (Pl. k; B, 4, 5), Piazza Grande 2;
HÔT. DELORME (Pl. b; C, 4), Via del Teatro 5; HÔT. CENTRAL (Pl. f; C,
4), Via San Nicolò 15, R. from 2 _K_ 50–4 _K_ 50 _h_, B. 1 _K_ 20 _h_.
=Cafés.= _Caffè degli Specchi_, _Caffè al Municipio_ (in the
town-hall), _Orientale_ (in the Lloyd Palace), all in Piazza Grande;
_Stazione_, Piazza della Stazione.
=Restaurants= at the hotels. Also, _Restaurant Dreher_, Via della
Cassa di Risparmio (Pl. C, 4), near the Old Exchange (p. 426); _La
Cooperativa_, Piazza San Giovanni 5 (Pl. D, 3, 4).
=Cabs.= From or to the stations 1 _K_ 60 _h_ (9 p.m. to 6 a.m. t2
_K_); in the inner town per drive with one horse 1 _K_ (at night 1 _K_
20 _h_), farther out 1 _K_ 40 or 1 _K_ 60 _h_; by time: ½ hr. 1 _K_ 20
_h_, at night 1 _K_ 60 _h_, ¾ hr. 1 _K_ 60 or 2 _K_ 20 _h_, 1 hr. 2
_K_ or 2 _K_ 80 _h_, each ¼ hr. more 50 or 60 _h_ (with pair, 1 _K_ 40
or 1 _K_ 60 _h_; 2 _K_ 20 or 2 _K_ 40 _h_; 2 _K_ 80 or 3 _K_ 20 _h_;
70 or 80 _h_). Trunk 50 _h_; small articles carried inside free,
outside 20 _h_.
=Tramways= from the Boschetto (beyond Pl. E, 2) viâ the Piazza della
Borsa and Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea (p. 427) to _Servola_ (p. 427);
from the S. Station to _Barcola_ (p. 427), etc.—ELECTRIC HILL-TRAMWAY
(views on left, best to sit backward), from the Piazza della Caserma
(Pl. C, D, 3) viâ (2½ M.) _Obelisco_ (80 _h_) in ½ hr. to (3¾ M.) the
rail, station of _Opčina_ (p. 427; 1 M. to the S.W. from the S.
Station).
=Motor Omnibus= in the forenoon, on week-days only, every hour to
_Miramar_ (p. 427; return-fare 3 _K_).
=Steamboat Lines.= _Austrian Lloyd_ (offices in Lloyd Palace, Pl. B,
4) to Venice (daily in summer, in 4–6½ hrs.; in winter Tues., Thurs.,
Sat., returning Mon., Wed., and Frid.); quick boats to Alexandria;
other lines to Syria and to Port Said (comp. p. 418); quick boats to
the Piræus (for Athens) and Constantinople (R. 78), etc.; _Cunard
Line_ (agents, Schröder & Co.), viâ Fiume, Palermo, Naples, and
Gibraltar to New York (R. 16); _Austro-American Line_ (office Via
Molin Piccolo 2) to Buenos Ayres, to Almeria, Cadiz, and Las Palmas,
to New York, and to Patras (R. 78) and Palermo; _German Levant Line_
to Tunis, Algiers, and Oran; _Hungarian-Croatian Co._ (agent, Maule,
Riva dei Pescatori 16) and _Croatian Steamboat Co._ to Fiume.—LOCAL
STEAMERS (from Molo San Carlo, Pl. B, 4) to Barcola (p. 427),
half-hourly in summer, and to Miramar (p. 427) twice daily.
=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 12; C, 3), Piazza delle Poste.
=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _J. B. Spence_; vice-consul, _N.
Salvary_.—United States Consul, _M. G. Hotschick_; vice-consul _O.
Demartini_.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _R. Greenham_, Via San Lazzaro 15.
=English Church Services=, in the Via San Michele 1714, every Sun. at
11 a.m. and 6 p.m.
_Trieste_ (pop. 221,000, Italians, Slovenians, and Germans; in 1758
about 6400 only), the Roman _Tergeste_, the chief seaport of Austria and
in the E. Mediterranean, lies on the E. shore of the _Bay of Trieste_,
at the head of the Adriatic and at the foot of the _Karst_ or _Carso
Plateau_ (1945 ft.), which is often visited by N.E. gales (Bora). Having
become the heiress of Venice Trieste was a free harbour from 1719 to
1891; in 1833 it became the seat of the _Austrian Lloyd_, the oldest and
one of the greatest of the steamboat companies in the Mediterranean. The
harbour is entered by ca. 12,000 vessels annually (imports 573, exports
508 million florins). The new Tauern Railway, completed in 1909, the
direct route to the Baths of Gastein, the Tyrol, and thence to Germany,
is expected to give a new impulse to the trade of the city.
The =Harbour= comprises the _Porto Vecchio_ (Pl. A, B, 4), sheltered by
the _Molo Santa Teresa_ (Pl. A, 5; lighthouse) of 1756, the _Porto
Nuovo_ (Pl. A, 1–3), with its four moles and a breakwater 1186 yds.
long, constructed in 1867–83, and the _Porto Nuovo di Sant’ Andrea_ or
_Francesco Giuseppe Primo_ (Pl. A, B, 7). The last, in the _Bay of
Muggia_, was completed in 1910. Between the Porto Nuovo and Porto
Vecchio is the _Canal Grande_ (Pl. C, 4), completed in 1756, for small
vessels only.
Near the old harbour are the two busiest squares in the town, the PIAZZA
GRANDE (Pl. B, C, 4) and the PIAZZA DELLA BORSA. In the Piazza Grande
are a marble _Statue of Charles VI._ and the _Maria Teresa Fountain_
(1751). On its E. side rises the _Municipio_ or town-hall (Pl. C, 4).
Next to the sea are pleasure-grounds; at the S. end of these is the
_Lloyd Palace_ (Pl. B, 4); at the N. end is the _Luogotenenza_ (or
governor’s residence; Pl. 7, C, 4).
To the N. of the Piazza Grande are the _Theatre_ (Teatro Comunale
Giuseppe Verdi, Pl. C, 4) and the _Tergesteo_ (Pl. 13; C, 4), the new
exchange, built in 1852. The _Borsa_, or old exchange (Pl. C, 4), is now
the seat of the chamber of commerce.
The VIA DEL CORSO (Pl. C, D, 4), the main street of Trieste, running to
the E. from the Piazza della Borsa, separates the new town from the
streets of the old town, which ascend the castle-hill. The old
_Castello_ (Pl. D, 5) now contains the barracks. Fine views are obtained
from the terraces of the _Convento dei Cappuccini_ (Pl. D, 4, 5) and of
the CATHEDRAL (_Basilica San Giusto_; Pl. 3, D, 5; closed 12–3), which
is composed of three early-Christian churches (6th cent.), united in the
14th century.
Between the cathedral and the Piazza Grande are the open-air _Museo
Lapidario_ (Pl. 9; C, 5), Via della Cattedrale 9, and the _Arco di
Riccardo_ (Pl. 1a; C, 5), the remains of a Roman arch.
In the Piazza Lipsia, to the S.W. of the Piazza Grande, rises the
_Commercial and Nautical Academy_ (Pl. 1; B, 5), containing the _Museo
Civico_ of natural history and antiquities. Near it is the Piazza
Giuseppina (Pl. B, 5), with a bronze monument by Schilling to the
_Archduke Maximilian_ (d. 1867; see below).
ENVIRONS. By the _Passeggio di Sant’ Andrea_ (Pl. A-E, 6, 7), past the
_Stabilimento Tecnico_ (Pl. B, 7) and _Lloyd Arsenal_ (Pl. C, D, 7),
to (2½ M.) _Servola_ (tramway, p. 425).—By hill-tramway (p. 425) to
*=Obelisco= (1125 ft.; Hotel), with terrace; walk thence to the N.W.
along the foot of the Karst to the _Belvedere_ (1303 ft.; fine view;
best in the evening).
The *Excursion to Miramar is best made in the afternoon; the traveller
should ascertain whether or not the park and château are open. The
highroad (4½ M.; motor-omnibus, see p. 425) skirts the coast. We may
take the train also from the S. Station to (5 M.) _Miramar_ or to (5½
M.) _Grignano_ and descend thence in ¼ hr. (or ½ hr.) to Miramar, or
take the tramway (p. 425) to _Barcola_ (sea-baths; Hôt. Excelsior) and
walk thence to (2½ M.) Miramar (motor-omnibus 60 _h_). The pleasantest
route, however, is that of the steamer (p. 425),—The imperial château
of =Miramar=, on the beautiful _Punta di Grignano_, was built in
1854–6 by Archd. Maximilian. It was here that he accepted the imperial
crown of Mexico (1864). The château, which has a charming park, is
open to the public (10–12 and 3–5, in winter 2–4; adm. 60 _h_).
From the S. station of _Opčina_ (pronounced Óptchina; see p. 425;
ordinary trains only stop here) directly in ½ hr. (or from Trieste viâ
Miramar, 10½ M. Nabresina, and 18 M. Opčina in 1¼–2½ hrs.) to (10 or
28 M.) =Divača= (pronounced Divátcha; 1418 ft.; Buffet, also R. 2 _K_
80 _h_, good; quarters also at the Restaurant Obersnel), station for
(1 M.) _Kronprinz Rudolf’s Grotto_ (tickets, etc. at the buffet), for
the (¾ hr.) _Stephanie-Warte_ (1428 ft.; view), and for the grand
_Cataracts and Caverns of St. Canzian_ (tickets and guides at the inn
of Joh. Gombač at _Matavun_, ½ hr. below the Stephanie-Warte, ¾ hr.
from Divača).
See also _Baedeker’s Austria-Hungary_.
* * * * *
The ITALIAN STEAMERS from Venice to Alexandria usually leave the lagoons
to the N. of the _Lido_ (p. 424), avoiding _Chioggia_ and the marshy
delta of the _Po_. They then steer down the Adriatic Sea towards Ancona.
In clear weather we obtain a superb view of the Alps, of the Euganean
hills to the N.W., and of the _Apennines_, whose offshoots come close
down to the Adriatic near _Rimini_.
=Ancona= (Hôt. Roma e Pace, etc.; Brit, vice-consul; pop. 33,300, incl.
about 6000 Jews), 140 M. to the S.E. of Venice, a strongly fortified
town and the busiest seaport on the E. coast of Italy, is splendidly
situated between the headlands of _Monte Astagno_ and _Monte Guasco_,
the N.W. spurs of Monte Conero (p. 428).
The _Harbour_, an oval basin open towards the W., is considered the best
in Italy. The well-preserved _Arch of Trajan_, in marble, of 115 A.D.,
and a _Triumphal Arch_ of the time of Pope Clement XII. (1730–40) recall
the two founders of the N. quays. The _Banchina_, on the E. side of the
harbour, is a modern quay (1880).
From the Dogana we may walk to the E. in a few minutes to the church of
_Santa Maria della Piazza_, with its lavishly decorated façade (1210),
and to the late-Gothic _Loggia dei Mercanti_ (Exchange; 1454–9). A
little to the E. is the _Prefettura_ (15–16th cent.), with its fine
quadrangle and a superb Renaissance archway.
The Via del Comune, near this, leads to the N., past the _Palazzo del
Comune_ (of 1493, but much modernized), to the *_Cathedral_ (San
Ciriaco; closed 12 to 4.30), on Monte Guasco, a fine point of view. The
church, in which Byzantine and Romanesque forms are mingled, dates from
1128–89; the fine porch is of the 13th century.
The STEAMERS round the N. pier, and beyond _Monte dei Cappuccini_
(lighthouse) pass _Monte Conero_ (1877 ft.; the ancient _Promontorium
Cunerum_), crowned with a Camaldulensian monastery. This limestone mass
does not form part of the Apennines, in front of which it lies, and
geologically considered is perhaps, like Monte Gargano (see below), a
relic of the great Dalmatian limestone tableland (p. 429).
The coast recedes. In clear weather we sight in succession the summits
of the Central Apennines, snow-clad till July: _Monte Vettore_ (8130
ft.), the highest of the _Monti Sibillini_, the _Gran Sasso d’Italia_
(9561 ft.) in the _Abruzzi_, and the _Maiella_, with _Monte Amaro_ (9170
ft.).
After some time we pass the four low _Trémiti Islands_, the mythical
_Insulae Diomedeae_, and then the rocky island of _Pianosa_ (ancient
_Planasia_), beyond which we sight _Monte Gargáno_ (3464 ft.; _Mons
Garganus_), once, as late as the tertiary age, an island separated from
the mainland by a strait.
Off the lighthouse of _Vieste_, on the E. side of the peninsula, we
steer away from the _Bay of Manfredonia_ and due S.E. to—
=Bari= (Hôt. Cavour, Corso Vittorio Emanuele; Caffè del Risorgimento, at
the hotel; Brit. vice-cons. and U. S. cons. agent; pop. 73,400), the
ancient _Barium_, a provincial capital and the largest trading town in
Apulia. As in the time of Horace, this is the part of the Adriatic where
fish are most abundant.
From the _Porto Nuovo_, on the N.W. side of the old town, Monte Gargano,
often cloud-capped, is visible even in rainy weather. The small _Porto
Vecchio_, on the E. side, admits small craft only.
The sights of the old town are the _Castle_, once that of the
Hohenstaufen, dating from Emp. Frederick II. (1223; now barracks and
signalling station), the _Cathedral_, a Romanesque church of the 12th
cent. modernized in 1745, and the church of _San Nicóla_, dedicated to
St. Nicholas of Bari. San Nicola and the small church of _San Gregorio_
near it date from the end of the 11th century.—The old town and the new
(_Borgo_) are separated by the broad _Corso Vittorio Emanuele_, which
ends in pleasant promenades.
Beyond Bari we skirt the coast, where in the seaports of _Mola di Bari_,
_Polignano a Mare_, and _Monopoli_, with their white houses, we see the
first signs of the Orient. The _Faro di Penna_, the lighthouse on _Capo
Gallo_, and the lighthouses in the islands of _Sant’ Andrea_ (see below)
and _Le Petagne_ mark the approach to (475 M.) _Brindisi_ (see below).
The AUSTRIAN LLOYD STEAMERS, on leaving _Trieste_ (p. 425), steer to the
S.W. through the _Bay of Trieste_, avoiding the numerous bays of the
N.W. coast of _Istria_; then, beyond the lighthouse of _Salvore_, the
ancient _Silvium Promontorium_, they keep in sight of the hilly,
olive-clad W. coast of Istria. We pass the small coast-towns of _Umago_,
_Cittanuova_, and _Parenzo_ (ancient _Parentium_), then the lighthouse
on the _Marmi Bank_, the _Canal di Leme_, a kind of fiord, backed by
_Monte Maggiore_ (4580 ft.), and the harbour of _Rovigno_, sheltered by
cliffs (scogli).
Beyond the cliff of _San Giovanni in Pélago_ (lighthouse) we pass the
_Isŏle Brioni_, where the Venetians once quarried stone for their
palaces and churches. Fine view of the deeply cut bay of _Pola_, the
chief naval seaport of Austria, used also by the Romans of the imperial
age as a naval harbour.
Beyond _Cape Promontore_ (ancient _Polaticum Promontorium_), the flat S.
extremity of Istria, with a lighthouse on the _Porer Cliff_, a
delightful view in clear weather is revealed of the Dalmatian islands,
relics of the ancient Dalmatian limestone plateau, now submerged in the
Adriatic. The most conspicuous are _Lussin_ (_Apsorus Insula_),
culminating in _Monte Ossero_ (1929 ft.), and to the E., overtopped by
it, _Unie_ and _Sansego_ with their lighthouses.
We pass the large islands of _Lunga_ or _Grossa_ and _Incoronata_
(_Celadussae Insulae_), lying off the coast near Zara. A good way
farther on we sight the rocky islet of _Pomo_, midway between Dalmatia
and the E. coast of Italy; then the islands of _Sant’ Andrea_ (1001
ft.), _Busi_ (788 ft.; containing the _Spelonca di Ballon_, resembling
the blue grotto of Capri), and _Lissa_ (1920 ft.; ancient _Issa_), where
the Austrian fleet defeated the Italian in 1866.
Between the islands of _Cazza_ (797 ft.) and _Lagosta_ (1368 ft.;
ancient _Ladesta_) and the Italian island-group of _Pelagosa_, we may
descry _Monte Gargano_ (p. 428) to the S.W. in clear weather.
We now steer straight towards the _Faro di Penna_ (p. 428).
=Brindisi.=—The QUAY is on the N.E. side of the town; the STATION, on
the S.W. side, is ¾ M. from the quay. Between them runs the Corso
Garibaldi, continued to the W. by Corso Umberto Primo.
HOTELS (charges should be agreed upon beforehand). _Grand-Hôt.
International_, at the quay, R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6, omn. 1½
fr.; _Albergo Europa_, Corso Garibaldi 147, R. from 2 fr.; _Alb.
Centrale_, Corso Garibaldi 67, near the harbour; these two, with
restaurants, fairly good.—_Café Caprez._
CAB (bargaining necessary) from station to quay 60 c., 2 pers. 1 fr.,
3 pers. 1 fr. 20 c.; ½ hr. 2, 1 hr. 3 fr.; at night 20 c. more; trunk
20 c.
=Post & Telegraph Office=, Corso Umberto Primo and on the quay.
BRITISH CONSUL, _S. G. Cocoto_.
STEAMBOAT OFFICES. _Società Nazionale_, Via Margherita 32; _Austrian
Lloyd_, Thos. Cook & Son, Strada Marina.—The steamers are generally
moored at the quay; otherwise, landing or embarkation 60 c.—LLOYD’S
AGENT, _Sig. Nervegna_.—ENGLISH CHURCH SERVICE in winter.
_Brindisi_ (pop. 22,000), a quiet town, the seat of an archbishop, has
been ever since ancient times an important starting-point for the East.
In the middle ages its harbour was often sought by the Crusaders, and
hosts of travellers now pass through it on their way to or from Egypt,
India, Australia, etc. The inner harbour, sheltered from every wind,
consists of two natural creeks formed by erosion; in the southmost, the
Seno di Ponte Piccolo, 492 yds. long, the large steamers are easily
berthed. The channel connecting the inner harbour with the outer had
become choked with sand in the later middle ages, but was reopened in
1755 and lined with masonry in 1866. On the island of _Sant’ Andrea_,
outside the harbour, rises a castle of the 15th cent., now a quarantine
station.
The town offers few sights. On a height close to the quay stands a
_Column_, 62 ft. high, with a rich capital containing figures of gods.
Adjacent is the base of a second column. The unfinished inscription on
the first mentions Lupus Protospatha, a Byzantine governor, who restored
the town in the 10th cent. after its destruction by the Saracens. These
columns are said to have marked the end of the Via Appia which led from
Rome to Tarentum and Brundisium, and they perhaps bore a beacon-fire.
The Gothic _Castle_, with its huge round towers, on the N. creek, to the
W. of the town, built by Emp. Frederik II. about 1235 and strengthened
by Charles V., now contains a bagno for galley convicts. The baptistery
of _San Giovanni al Sepolcro_ (11th cent.), with its fine portals and
frescoes, is now a museum of antiquities. The _Cathedral_, in its
present form, is of the 18th cent.; at the corner of a street opposite
is a mediæval house with an elaborate balcony. The Norman church of _San
Benedetto_ (early 13th cent.) has an interesting side-portal and fine
cloisters. _Santa Lucia_ has a crypt with relics of Byzantine frescoes.
Leaving Brindisi the STEAMER next passes through the _Straits of
Otranto_, the entrance to the Adriatic, about 47 M. in breadth, within
sight at first of the flat and marshy coast of Apulia, with the
lighthouse of _San Cataldo_. To the E., on the coast of _Albania_, rise
the _Acroceraunian Mts._ (p. 496).
Far away to the left appear the _Othonian Islands_ (p. 496), belonging
to Greece, and the W. coast of _Corfu_ (p. 495).
Steering through the _Ionian Sea_ we near the W. coast of _Kephallenía_
(p. 500) and _Zante_ (p. 502). Off the _Strophades_ (p. 502) we sight
the _Messenian Peninsula_, with _Mt. Ægaleon_ (p. 502).
Beyond the _Œnussae Islands_ (p. 493) we proceed to the E.S.E. till at
length we pass the W. coast of _Crete_ (p. 415) and the island of
_Gavdos_ (p. 418). We then lose sight of land until near _Alexandria_ or
_Port Said_ (comp. p. 418).
[Illustration: ALEXANDRIE]