Between Tripoli and Constantinople there is a fortnightly service by
the _Società Nazionale_ (Line VIII: Catania, Syracuse, Benghazi,
Constantinople; comp. R. 64). Dep. from Tripoli every second Mon.
aft., from Mesurata Tues. morn., from Benghazi Thurs., from Derna
Frid. noon, from Canea Sat. night, from Candia Sun., from Smyrna Mon.
midnight, arr. at Constantinople Wed. morn. (returning from
Constantinople Mon. night, arr. at Tripoli the second Wed.); fare 117
fr. 60 or 78 fr. 40 c.—From Canea to the Piræus (for Athens) there are
corresponding steamers of the Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co.,
of the Thessalian line of the Austrian Lloyd, and of Line X (p. 493)
of the Società Nazionale.
For the voyage from Tripoli to _Derna_, see R. 65. The steamer next
touches at =Crete= (Gr. _Krētē_, Turk. _Kirid_, Ital. _Candia_), the
fourth-largest island in the Mediterranean (5402 sq. M.; 303,550
inhab.), formerly Turkish, but nominally independent since 1908.
Nearing the island we first sight the _Aspra Vuná_ (_Madaraes Mts._,
7907 ft.), generally snow-clad, the ancient _Leuka Orē_ (White Mts.).
The vessel steers round _Cape Krio_, the S.W. point of Crete, and _Cape
Busa_, the N.W. point, and passes the island of _Grabusa_.
We next proceed to the E.N.E., past _Kisamo Bay_ and _Cape Spada_
(_Psakon_), the N. point of the island. Beyond the cape opens the broad
_Bay of Canea_ (Gr. _Chanía_).
In favourable weather the steamer anchors in the open roads of =Canea=
(Hôt. de France, pens. 8–10 fr.; Hôt.-Restaur. Bristol, pens. 5–8 fr.;
at both it is advisable to ask charges; Brit. cons.-gen., R. Peel; pop.
21,000), the capital of Crete, on the site of _Kydonia_. The remains of
the Venetian fortifications are interesting. Fine view from the lofty
reservoir of the waterworks. Most of the consuls reside at _Chalepa_,
the E. suburb.
In stormy weather the steamers round the broad headland of _Akrotiri_
(once _Kyamon_) and anchor in _Suda Bay_, the only good harbour in the
island. (Road to Canea.)
After leaving Canea and passing _Cape Drépano_ we have a pleasant view
of _Harmyro Bay_ and _Rethymno_, Ital. _Rétimo_ (pop. 9300), the ancient
_Rhithymna_, now the third-largest town in Crete. In the heart of the
island tower the _Psiloriti Mts._, the ancient _Ida_, often snow-clad,
culminating in the _Stavros_ (8065 ft.).
Farther on we pass _Cape Stavros_, an important landmark. We then steer
to the S.E., between _Cape Panaghia_ and the barren island of _Dia_,
Ital. _Standia_ (870 ft.), where vessels seek refuge from northerly
storms, into _Candia Bay_ and anchor in the roads a little off the quay
(lighthouse).
=Candia= (Hotels, both near the landing-place: Cnossos, pens. 9–15 fr.,
with restaurant; Angleterre, rooms only, unpretending; advisable to ask
charges at both; Brit. vice-cons., A. Calocherino; pop. 22,480), Gr.
_Herákleion_, formerly _Megalókastron_, the seat of the Metropolitan of
Crete, is said to have been founded by the Moors on the site of
Herakleion, the port of Knossos. Here also the fortifications were built
by the Venetians, and were bravely defended by their admiral Franc.
Morosini against the Turks for three years until he had to capitulate in
1669.
We walk from the landing-place through the main street and past a
handsome Venetian palace to the chief square, with the _Morosini
Fountain_. Straight on we come, at the E. end of the town, to an open
space, at the N.E. angle of which is the—
*_Museum_, containing the splendid antiquities excavated at Knossos and
elsewhere, illustrating the peculiar development of art in Crete at its
prime. The oldest objects belong to the so-called island culture (3rd
millenary B.C.) of the bronze period, or early and middle Minoan
periods, as they are now called after Minos the legendary king of Crete.
To the bronze age belong also the pre-Hellenic antiquities, those namely
of the so-called Mycenæan or late Minoan period (middle of 2nd millenary
B.C.), which are hardly surpassed by the creations of Greece at its
zenith. Particular notice should be taken of the wall-paintings,
fragments of a procession, stone vases with reliefs, ivory statuettes of
bull-baiters, and the two fayence figures of a goddess grasping a snake.
From the old S. gate of Candia a road (horse 3–4 fr.) leads in less than
an hour to the site of _Knossos_, the ancient capital of the island. The
*_King’s Palace_, excavated here since 1898 by Mr. Arthur Evans, dates
from the second or middle Minoan period, but was already half burned
down in the Mycenæan period.
The steamer next crosses the _Cretan Sea_, to the N.N.E., to two islands
of the _Cyclades_ (p. 492): _Anaphe_ (1349 ft.) and _Santorin_ or
_Thira_ (1857 ft.), the ancient _Thera_. Close to _Cape Oia_
(lighthouse) on the beautiful island of Santorin, which is the relic of
an old crater (p. 492), are seen the ruins of _Thera_, the ancient
capital.
Next, on the left, we sight the island of _Iós_ or _Niós_ (2408 ft.). We
then pass through the strait between _Amorgós_ (1233 ft.; lighthouse),
the eastmost island of the kingdom of Greece, and the small island group
of _Eremonisia_, flanking Naxos on the S.E. side.
The high mountains of _Naxos_ (3289 ft.), the largest of the Cyclades,
remain in sight long after we have passed the islet of _Donusa_ (1600
ft.). The islands of _Delos_, once the religious and economic centre of
the Cyclades, and _Mykonos_ (1194 ft.) are only visible in the far
distance in very clear weather.
The ship presently nears the W. coast of _Nikaria_ (p. 492), an island
belonging to the _S. Sporades_ (p. 490), and then (as do also the
steamers from the Levant) passes through the _Strait of Chios_ (p. 492)
and across the _Gulf of Smyrna_ (comp. p. 530).
_Smyrna_, and thence to _Constantinople_, see pp. 530, 533–536.