Route Page
63. From Tunis to Malta (Syracuse) 396
64. From Tunis to Syracuse viâ Sfax, Tripoli, and Malta 404
65. From Tripoli to Alexandria viâ Benghazi and Derna 412
Leptis Magna, 412.—The Cyrenaica, 413.
66. From Tripoli to Constantinople viâ Derna and Crete 415
67. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Alexandria and Port Said 417
68. From Venice or Trieste to Alexandria and Port Said viâ
Brindisi 418
Miramar. Divača, 427.
69. Alexandria 431
70. Port Said 436
71. From Alexandria or Port Said to Cairo 437
Cairo 439
History, 443.—History of Art, 444.—a. Northern Quarters
(The Ezbekîyeh Garden, the Muski, Gâmia el-Azhar,
Muristân Kalâûn, Gâmia el-Muaiyad), 445.—b. The S.E.
Quarters (The Arab Museum, Gâmia Ibn Tulûn, Gâmia Sultân
Hasan, Citadel, Gâmia en-Nâsir, Gâmia Mohammed Ali),
450.—c. The New Town (The Ismaîlîyeh and Tewfîkîyeh
Quarters, Egyptian Museum, Gezîreh), 454.—d. Environs
(The Mameluke Tombs, Heliopolis Oasis, Heliopolis-On, Old
Cairo, Pyramids of Gîzeh, Memphis, and Sakkâra), 458.
72. From Alexandria or Port Said to Beirut (Smyrna,
Constantinople) viâ Jaffa 466
From Haifa to Nâbulus; to Damascus viâ Derât (Nazareth,
Tabarîya), 468.
73. From Jaffa to Jerusalem 470
From Jerusalem to Bethlehem, 480.
74. Beirut. Excursion to Damascus 481
75. From Beirut to Smyrna (and Constantinople) 489
76. From Alexandria to Athens and Smyrna (and Constantinople) 491
77. From (Marseilles, Genoa) Naples to Athens (and
Constantinople) 493
78. From Venice or Trieste to Athens (and Constantinople) viâ
Brindisi and Patras 496
Corfu, 496.
79. Athens 502
History, 505.—a. Walk from the Palace round the S. side of
the Acropolis (The Olympieion, Stadion, Monument of
Lysikrates, Theatre of Dionysos, Odeion, Areopagus),
508.—b. The Acropolis (The Temple of Nike, Propylæa,
Parthenon. Erechtheion, Acropolis Museum), 512.—c. Walk
from the Palace to the Theseion. Dipylon. Hill of the
Nymphs. Pnyx. Monument of Philopappos, 520.—d. The Modern
Quarters (Academy of Science, University, Library,
Polytechnic Institute), 525.—e. The National
Archæological Museum, 526.—f. Walks (Lykabettos, Kolonos,
New Phaleron), 528.
80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople 529
81. Constantinople 536
History, 541.—a. Galata and Pera (Galata Tower, Petits
Champs, Dolma Bagcheh Palace, Top Haneh), 542.—b. Stambul
(Yeni Valideh Jami, Seraglio, New Museum, Chinili
Kiosque, Aya Sophia, Mosque of Ahmed I., Great Bazaar,
Mosques of Bayazid, Suleiman the Great, and Mohammed II.,
Land-Wall), 545.—c. The Golden Horn (Eyub, Sweet Waters),
555.—d. Scutari, 556.—e. The Bosporus, 557.
=63. From Tunis to Malta= (_Syracuse_).
258 M. STEAMERS (agents at Tunis, see p. 331; at Malta, see p. 400).
=1.= _Comp. Gén. Transatlantique_ (Marseilles, Tunis, and Malta line,
R. 21) on Wed. (returning Thurs.) afternoon, in 18 hrs. (55 or 40
fr.).—=2.= _Hungarian Adria_ (R. 22) once a month (cabin, without
food, 25 fr.).—Other steamers calling at Malta (P. & O., German Levant
cargo-boats, etc.) are mostly bound for distant ports. Embarking and
landing, comp. p. 399.—English money is the currency at Malta, but
French and Italian gold are in general use.
The steamers follow the Palermo and Naples course (comp. R. 26) as far
as _Cape Bon_, and then steer to the E.S.E. into the _Straits of
Pantelleria_ or _Sicilian Straits_ (p. xxx).
The island of _Pantelleria_ (p. 154), which is sighted in clear weather
off Cape Bon, is passed by the French steamers at night. The lighthouse
of _Spadillo_ (68 ft.), on the N. E. point of the island, long remains
in sight. The distant _Linosa_ (610 ft.; ancient _Æthusa_), with a
lighthouse, is visible only in very clear weather.
In the early morning the abrupt coasts of _Gozo_ (p. 403) and _Malta_
(p. 399) appear in the distance. The vessel rounds the island of Gozo,
whose lighthouse on the _Giurdan Hill_ (499 ft.) on the N. side, is
visible for 27 M.
Beyond _Râs el-Kala_, the E. point of Gozo, we sight the narrow _Straits
of Flieghi_ or _Comino Channels_, lying between Gozo and Malta, and
named alter the island of _Comino_ (p. 397).
On the N. E. coast of _Malta_, above which soon appears the huge dome of
Musta (p. 403), we pass the _Baia di Melleha_ or _Mellieha Bay_, with
the pilgrims’ resort of that name in the background, the _St. Paul’s
Bay_ (p. 403), and _Salina Bay_, with its salt-works.
Next appear the village of _St. Julian_ (_San Giuliano_), on the bay of
that name, and the town of _Sliema_ (p. 400). We then pass _Fort Tigné_
(p. 401; lighthouse) and the entrance to the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (p.
399). The entrance of the _Grand Harbour_, the chief harbour of
_Valletta_, between _Fort St. Elmo_ (p. 400; lighthouse) and _Fort
Ricasoli_ (p. 401; lighthouse), is protected against N.E. gales by the
new _St. Elmo_ and _Ricasoli Breakwaters_.—Arrival, comp. p. 399.
* * * * *
The =Maltese Islands= (_Isŏle Maltesi_), composed of tertiary rock
formation, were considered by earlier geographers to belong to Africa,
but are now assigned to Europe. They lie halfway between the Straits of
Gibraltar and the Suez Canal, on the chief route from the Atlantic to
the Levant and to India. The principal island is _Malta_, with the
capital _Valletta_ and many small towns and villages (_casal_). It is 20
M. long, 9¾ M. broad, and, at its culminating point, 847 ft. in height.
The island is much over-peopled. So is the island of _Gozo_ (600 ft.),
which measures 10¼ by 5¼ M.; but _Comino_ (248 ft.), 1¼ by 1 M., is
uninhabited. The mean temperature of the year is 66½° Fahr., of January
53½° (almost the same as that of Djerba and Tripoli), of August 79½°.
Gales, particularly the dreaded N.E. wind (_Gregale_), often make a
winter residence in Malta uncomfortable, while the _Sirocco_ (p. 321),
here very moist, is specially trying in autumn.
At first sight the islands seem destitute of vegetation, the fields and
gardens being enclosed by lofty walls, while the growth of trees is
prevented by the violent winds. By means of laborious tilling and
artificial irrigation about a third of the area of the islands has been
converted into luxuriantly fertile arable land. After the corn and hay
harvest in May and June the land is sown a second time, mostly with
cotton, afterwards manufactured in the interior. Among other valuable
products are early vegetables and potatoes, which yield two crops in the
year. The oranges are excellent but other fruits are scarce. Cattle,
poultry, and eggs are largely imported from Turkey, Tunisia,
Tripolitania, and Barca (p. 412).
The population of Malta (96½ sq. M.), is ca. 184,000, apart from the
garrison (nearly 9000 soldiers); that of Gozo (27 sq. M.) is 21,200. The
British and foreign residents number about 10,000. The natives,
especially in the seaports, Phœnician in origin, are partly descended
from the various races that have here held sway. The _lingua Maltese_ is
akin to Arabic, but has borrowed much from the Sicilian dialect of
Italian, and of late from English also. The educated classes speak
Italian which is used also in the law-courts. The language of commerce
is English. The _faldetta_, the peculiar black head-dress of the women,
is the sole relic of the old national costumes.
The Maltese are much attached to the church of Rome, and nowhere in so
small a community are the churches so numerous and gorgeous. About
one-third of the soil is said to belong to the clergy. The Maltese are
well-known throughout the Mediterranean as enterprising mariners,
merchants, and fishermen. Their island being the most densely peopled
region in the Mediterranean next to Monaco, an immense number of the
inhabitants have emigrated during the last century. From 1807 onwards
they settled largely in the Tunisian seaports, from Tabarca to Zarzis,
where they formed the bulk of the Christian population, but of late they
have had to contend against the growing competition of the Sicilians and
other Italians. In Algeria they have formidable rivals in the Italians
and Spaniards. Within the last few decades the stream of emigration has
flowed chiefly to Tripolitania, Barca, Egypt, and even to Zanzibar and
Delagoa Bay.
Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of _Ogygia_
described by Homer, where Odysseus is fabled to have been enslaved by
the nymph Calypso, whose alleged cavern is still pointed out on the N.
coast of Malta, and also in the island of Gozo. Between 3000 and 2000
B.C. a prehistoric race (Hamitic?), probably from Libya, settled in
Malta. Of their stage of civilization, which lasted a thousand years,
traces are still found in the massive stone structures in the
cyclopean style, which reveal, especially in their circular
ground-plan, an affinity with the _sesi_ of Pantelleria, the _nuraghi_
of Sardinia (see p. 145), and the megalithic monuments of Barbary,
S.E. Spain, and the Balearic Islands, and fall within the sphere of
influence of pre-Mycenæan (‘insular’) and Mycenæan culture. Later the
Phœnicians of Sidon founded a colony here, which soon became important
enough to send forth settlers to Acholla (p. 370) on the Tunisian
coast. Next, in 736 B. C., came Greek immigrants, and two centuries
later the Carthaginians, who took possession of the island. They now
called it _Melita_ and had a capital of that name (now Notabile), but
they in their turn were ousted by the Romans in 218 B. C. It was on
the N. coast of Melita that St. Paul was wrecked in 62 A. D. (Acts,
xxvii. xxviii). He was received and courteously lodged by Publius, the
governor, and founded a Christian community in the island before
resuming his voyage. Four centuries later came the Vandals (p. 322),
and after another century the Byzantines, who in 870 were driven out
by Moors from Tunis. Under the Moors the island was infested with
pirates. At length when the Normans under Roger conquered Sicily in
1090, Malta also fell under their sway, and thenceforward it shared
the fortunes of Sicily until 1522. In that year arrived the Knights of
St. John, banished from Rhodes by the Turks, and to that Order in 1530
Malta, Gozo, and Tripoli were granted by Emp. Charles V. The knights
then took the name of Knights of Malta and gallantly defended their
island, which became one of the great bulwarks of Christianity,
against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they
sustained was that of Borgo (Vittoriosa, p. 400) in 1565, when they
were attacked by the whole forces of Suleiman the Great under Dragut
(p. 370), Mustapha, and Piali. In consequence of that event the Grand
Master Jean de la Valette founded and fortified the new town of La
Valette (Valletta), which became the capital and was deemed
impregnable. In 1798 Bonaparte, when on his way to Egypt, gained
possession of the town by treachery and stratagem; but on 8th Sept.
1800, after a siege of two years by the Maltese, assisted by British
and Neapolitan troops, the French garrison was compelled to capitulate
and leave the island. Since the treaty of Paris (1814) Malta has
belonged to Britain.—The present governor of the island is _Lt.-Gen.
Sir H. M. Rundle, K. C. B._
[Illustration: MALTA VALLETTA]
The island of =Malta= presents an undulating and richly varied N.E.
coast, but on the rocky S.W. side it rises abruptly from the sea. The
_Grand Harbour_ and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_, the two grand natural
harbours of Valletta, originally valleys hollowed out during the
tertiary period, form one of the most important of British war-harbours
and the headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet. Owing to its central
position Malta is also a great coaling-station, vying with Gibraltar,
Algiers, and Genoa. In 1908–9 the harbour was entered and cleared by
3212 vessels of 4,036,752 tons of burden.
=Valletta.=—ARRIVAL. The great British liners lie to in Sliema Creek
(p. 400); the French, Italian, and German steamers anchor in the Grand
Harbour, near the Custom House, or, during N.E. gales, in the
sheltered Marsa Creek. Boat to or from steamer 6_d._, with baggage
9_d._ (at night 1_s._). Passports may sometimes be useful at
custom-house, post-office, etc.
=Hotels= (all more or less in the English style). =1.= _At Valletta_:
HÔT. D’ANGLETERRE, Strada Stretta 34, with a fine fresco-painted
dining-room (17th cent.), pens. 9_s._, good; ST. JAMES’S HOTEL, Strada
San Paolo 226, pens. 9_s._, well conducted; HÔT. ROYAL, Strada
Mercanti 30, pens. 10_s._; WESTMINSTER, Strada Reale 11; IMPERIAL, Via
Santa Lucia 134; QUEEN’S, Strada Mercanti; HÔT. D’AUSTRALIE, Strada
Stretta 53, pens. 8½ fr.; HÔT. CENTRAL, Strada Stretta 44, pens. 8½
fr., good cuisine, commercial house. Also the family hotels, OXFORD
(No. 29), GREAT BRITAIN (No. 67), and OSBORNE (No. 50), all in Strada
Mezzodì, quiet and pleasant.—=2.= _At Sliema_ (p. 400), for some stay:
*NEW IMPERIAL, Strada Ridolfo; SAVOY, Strada Imrabat 6, with garden,
pens. (with bath) 6–8_s._, good; these two in an open site.
=Restaurant.= _National Restaurant_, Strada Reale 253.—CAFÉS.
_Risazza_, near the Exchange Buildings; _Regina_, Piazza Tesoreria;
_Anglo-Maltese_ (Engl. beer), _Commerce_, both in Strada Reale;
Express.
=Post Office=, Strada Mercanti 4.—=Telegraph Office=, Strada Reale 38.
=Banks.= _Anglo-Egyptian_, Strada Reale 233; _Banco di Roma_;
_Anglo-Maltese_ and _Banco di Malta_, Exchange Buildings, Strada
Reale.—MONEY CHANGERS. _Coppini_, Strada Mercanti 58; _Thos. Cook &
Son_, Strada Reale 308.—BOOKSELLER. _J. Critien_, Strada Reale, and
others.—NEWSPAPERS. _Daily Malta Chronicle_, _Malta Herald_, _Gazzetta
di Malta_, etc.
=Shops.= LACE at the _Malta Lace School_, Strada Mezzodì 28; _Borg_,
Strada Reale 269; _Mifsud_, Strada Santa Lucia.—FILIGREE WORK at
_Amabile’s_.
=Theatres.= _Royal Opera_, Strada Reale, at the corner of Strada
Mezzodì (Nov.–April, Ital. opera); _Teatro Manoel_, Strada Teatro,
built by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena (p. 401) in 1731, for operas
and varieties.—VARIETIES at the Alhambra.
=Cabs.= Within Valletta and Floriana, incl. the Marina 4_d._ (luggage
according to bargain); to Sliema 1_s._ 2_d._, to Burmola, Senglea, or
Vittoriosa 1_s._ 8_d._, to Musta 2_s._, to Notabile or Krendi 2_s._
6_d._, to Boschetto 3_s._, to Mnaidra or St. Paul’s Bay 4_s._—By time:
¼ hr. 6_d._, ½ hr. 1_s._, 1 hr. 1_s._ 6_d._, each addit. ¼ hr. 4_d._
=Lift= from the harbour to the Upper Barracca (p. 402), 1_d._
=Tramways= from Porta Reale (1) viâ Marsa and Casal Paula (2_d._) to
Burmola, (2) viâ Curmi to Zebbug, (3) viâ Hamrun to Birchircara.
=Steam Ferry= across the Grand Harbour to Senglea (½_d._); across
Marsamuscetto Harbour to Sliema (½_d._); to Pietà and Misida (1_d._);
in summer to St. Julian’s also (2_d._).—STEAMER TO GOZO every week-day
at 7, on Sun. at 8 a.m.; on Sun., Tues., Thurs., Sat. at 1 p.m. also;
returning at 10.30 or 4.30; return-fare 1_s._; dep. from Grand
Harbour; to or from steamer 4_d._
=Malta Railway= (station between Royal Opera and Porta Reale), 24
trains daily (more on Sun.) to Attard 3_d._ or 1½_d._, to Notabile
(Città Vecchia) 7_d._ or 3½_d._
=Steamboat Offices.= _Peninsular & Oriental_, Worcester, Strada
Mercanti 41; _Cunard_, Lowe, Strada Stretta 81; _Comp. Gén.
Transatlantique_ (p. 396), Vadala, Strada Reale 292; _Società
Nazionale_ (R. 64), Civitelli, Strada San Paolo 225; _German Levant_,
P. Cutajar & Co.; _Hungarian Adria Co._ (RR. 22, 23), Kohen, Piazza
Regina 6.
=United States Consul=, _J. O. Laing_; vice-consul, _James A.
Turnbull_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Gollcher & Sons_, Strada Zaccaria 21.
=Sights.= _Cathedral_ before 8 and from 10 to 10.30 a.m.; also after 2
p.m.—_Library_ on week-days, 9 to 3.30.—_Governor’s Palace_ daily,
9–12 and 1–5, 6_d._ (guide unnecessary).—_Valletta Museum_ on
week-days 9–1 (in June-Sept. 3–6 also), 6_d._, Sat. 3_d._ ; Sun. 9–12
free.
ONE DAY. Visit to _Cathedral_, _Palace_, and _Museum_ (p. 401), and
view from _Barracca Superiore_ (p. 402) in the forenoon; in the
afternoon, trip to _Notabile_ (p. 403; cathedral, bastions, museum),
or to _Gozo_ (p. 403).
_Valletta_ or _Valetta_ (197 ft.; pop. 25,000, or incl. Floriana
32,000), the capital of Malta, is the seat of the Governor (see p. 399),
of the Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Forces (Gen. Sir Ian
Hamilton), and of a University founded in 1769. It lies in 35°34′ N.
lat. and 14°31′ E. long., at the extremity of the peninsula, formerly
called _Monte Sceberras_, 1½ M. long and ½ M. broad, between the _Grand
Harbour_ (to the S.E.) and the _Marsamuscetto Harbour_ (to the N.W.).
Enthroned above its harbours, with its grand fortifications partly hewn
in the rock, the model of a 16th. cent, fortress, it presents a very
striking appearance when approached from the sea.
Opposite Valletta, on the three central creeks of the Grand Harbour, lie
the ‘Three Cities’ of _Borgo_ (Malt. _Birgu_; pop. 6200), the oldest
seat of the Maltese Order, also called _Vittoriosa_ since the great
Turkish siege, _Sénglea_ (pop. 8100), and _Búrmola_ or _Cospicua_ (pop.
14,100), with the naval arsenal. In the Marsamuscetto Harbour lies the
island of _Jezira_, with the Lazzaretto, beyond which, on the _Sliema
Creek_, rises the town of _Sliema_ (pop. 12,000).
The =Fortifications= were an object of ceaseless attention under the
rule of the Order. The oldest part of them is _Fort St. Angelo_,
originally built by the Moors in 870 and renewed in 1530, which in the
siege of 1565 proved the chief bulwark of Borgo. _Fort St. Elmo_,
originally built in 1488 but now entirely altered, fell into the hands
of the Turks in 1565. The town-wall of _Borgo_ was built in 1530 and
that of _Sénglea_ in 1554. The *Town Walls of _Valletta_, with their
thirty bastions, deep moats, drawbridges, and casemates, date chiefly
from the time of the foundation of the town (1566–71). The outworks of
_Floriana_ are of 1635. The older ramparts of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and
Burmola, called the _Firenzuola Lines_, were strengthened by the
addition of new outworks in 1668 called the _Cottonera Lines_. The
later harbour-forts are _Fort Ricasoli_, of 1670, _Fort Manoel_ in
Jezira, of 1732, and _Fort Tigné_, of 1792. All these works are
supplemented by the British _Harbour Batteries_.
The streets ascend steeply from the two harbours, many of them by means
of long flights of steps. The main business streets are the STRADA
REALE, leading on the top of the peninsula from Fort St. Elmo to Porta
Reale (over ½ M.), and the Strada Mercanti. From the latter the Strada
Cristoforo descends past the _University_, established in an old Jesuit
college (Strada San Paolo 109), to the _Lower Barracca Gardens_, a
bastion affording a good survey of the mouth of the harbour and the
‘Three Cities’.
The plain PALACE, once the seat of the Grand Master and now that of the
governor of Malta (see p. 399), was erected in 1573–7 by _Girolamo
Cassar_ in the Strada Reale and Piazza Tesoreria, in the centre of the
town. The garden court on the left is adorned with a bronze statue of
Neptune by _Giovanni da Bologna_; in the court on the right rises a huge
Araucaria excelsa. Adm., see p. 400; entrance by the green gate in the
upper court.
The chief attraction is the PALACE ARMOURY on the first floor,
containing armour, weapons, flags, and trophies of the Order
(catalogue 5_s._). The principal hall, 88 yds. long, contains also
state-coaches in the pseudo-classical style and charters of Pope
Paschalis II. (1113) and Charles V. (1530; investiture of the Order).
On the walls of the adjacent corridor are painted views of old Malta.
The Council Room on the left is hung with superb Gobelins, designed by
_Franç. Desportes_ (1703). The wall-paintings represent naval battles
fought by the Order.
An inscription on the Doric portico of the _Main Guard_, opposite the
N.W. façade of the Palace, records the cession of Malta to Great
Britain. A band often plays in the square in the evening. In the Piazza
Tesoreria, opposite the S.W. façade of the Palace, is the _Public
Library_ of 56,000 vols. (adm., see p. 400; entrance under the arcades).
The CATHEDRAL OF SAN GIOVANNI (_St. John’s_), to the left in the second
side-street in the direction of the Porta Reale, built in 1573–7 by
_Girol. Cassar_, and lavishly decorated in the interior, was the Order’s
temple of fame. Adm., see p. 400.
INTERIOR. The oil-paintings on the barrel-vaulting are by _Mattia
Preti_ (‘il Cavaliere Calabrese’; 1613–99). On the floor are about 400
slabs of coloured marble, tombstones of the knights. The chapels
dedicated to the nine nations of the Order are lined with a number of
tombstones of Grand Masters, mostly in the baroque or rococo style. In
the Portuguese chapel (2nd on the right) are those of Ant. Manoel de
Vilhena (1722–36) and Manoel Pinto de Fonseca (1741–73), the founder
of the university.—In the Crypt, below the high-altar (of 1686),
repose, among others, L’Isle Adam (1530–4), the first Maltese Grand
Master, and Jean de la Valette (1557–68), the gallant defender of
Borgo (see p. 398).
Sumptuous Brussels tapestry (1697–1701), after designs by _Rubens_ and
_Mattia Preti_, is hung up in the church on festivals.
The *VALLETTA MUSEUM, Strada San Giovanni 38, opposite the façade of the
Cathedral, affords an admirable survey of the history of Maltese art and
culture from the prehistoric age down to the close of the Knights’
period. Adm., see p. 400; no catalogue; curator, Dr. Themistocles
Zammit.
ENTRANCE ROOM. On the left the ‘sacred stone’ from the Torre dei
Giganti (p. 404); Roman inscriptions from Gozo (about 140 A. D.); a
fine Norman capital, Norman and Cufic (early Arabic) inscriptions,
etc.; also models of stone balconies and of a Norman window at
Victoria (p. 404).
FIRST FLOOR. Prehistoric objects from Egypt (the Faiyûm); the Lord
Grenfell collection of Egyptian antiquities; Greek vases from Benghazi
and Cyrene; Arabian glass, etc.
SECOND FLOOR. In the _Ante Room_ are Roman sculptures.—The _Chief
Hall_ contains prehistoric, Phœnician, Punic, and Roman objects from
tombs in Malta and Gozo. By the entrance-wall is a large collection of
vases arranged in types. In the last case are potsherds from various
neolithic stations. By the back-wall are prehistoric finds from
Hal-Saflieni (see below) and Hagiar Kim (p. 403), vases, amulets,
projectiles, flint implements, seven seated stone figures, etc.;
adjacent, on the left, is the unique Phœnician-Greek dedicatory
inscription in which Phœnician characters were for the first time
deciphered (on the right, cast of a similar inscription in the
Louvre). By the window-wall are copies and models of the so-called
chief temple of Hagiar Kim and of Phœnician tombs; also an Arabian
tombstone (1173), with a long Cufic inscription. In the first case in
the centre is Phœnician glass; in the fourth, a Phœnician terracotta
sarcophagus, with the recumbent figure of the deceased. The _Second
Room_ contains memorials of the period of the Order.—In the _Passage_
are drawings of the Roman house at Notabile (p. 403) and its
mosaics.—The _Third Room_ contains old plans, maps, and views of Malta
of old; model of a state-galley of the Grand Masters; a collection of
coins from the Phœnician age to the present day.
Each of the nine nations of the Order had its own ‘auberge’ or house of
assembly. Most of these were built by Girol. Cassar. The _Auberge
d’Aragon_ is in the Piazza Celsi. At the upper end of the town are the
_Aub. de Provence_, at the corner of the Strada Reale and Strada
Britannica, the _Aub. d’Italie_ (1574), in the Strada Mercanti, opposite
the post-office, and the handsome _Aub. de Castille_ (1574; altered in
1744), in the Piazza Regina.—A few paces from the Piazza Regina are the
_Upper Barracca Gardens_ (laid out on the large bastion of Barracca
Superiore; lift, see p. 400), embellished with numerous statues, and
affording a fine view of the Grand Harbour, especially by evening light.
Through the _Porta Reale_ (P. R. on the map) we reach the plateau
between Valletta and the suburb of FLORIANA. Near the gate is the
tramway-station (p. 400). On the right, farther on, is the _Parade
Ground_. In the middle of the plateau, beyond the bronze statue of _Ant.
Manoel de Vilhena_ (p. 401), runs the long narrow _Maglio Garden_,
enclosed by high walls. Farther on we come to the bastions of Floriana,
on which are situated the _Argotti_ or _Botanic Garden_, belonging to
the university, and the _Sarrìa_, a handsome church of the Maltese Order
(1678).
At _Casal Paula_ or _Paula_, 2 M. to the S. of Floriana, beyond the
_Creek of Marsa_, lies the prehistoric _Hypogaeum of Hal Saflieni_,
containing circular caves, some of them richly decorated, of the
period of the neolithic civilization. Entrance (6_d._) in Catacomb
Street, 5 min. from the tramway-terminus (p. 400).
RAILWAY (p. 400) from Valletta to Notabile (carr., see p. 399). After
the long tunnel under Floriana come the stations of _Hamrun_, _Misida_,
_Birchircara_, and (4½ M.) _Attard_ (Alb. Melita). About 10 min. to the
N. of Attard is the _Palace of Sant’Antonio_ (1625), once the summer
seat of the Grand Master (visitors admitted to the fine garden). The
road in front of the palace goes on to (2 M.) _Musta_, with a remarkable
church, whose huge dome, 118 ft. in diameter, was constructed in 1853–64
without the aid of scaffolding.
7 M. =Notábile= or =Città Vecchia= (Hôt. du Point-de-Vue, with fine
view, pens. 7–8_s._; pop. 7500), still popularly called _Medina_ (Arabic
for ‘town’), the seat of the bishop, was the old fortified capital of
the island as far back as the Roman age.
From the Notabile station a road leads to the Piazza Sakkaya, on the
hill between the old town and the S. suburb of _Rábato_. Thence we pass
through the Porta dei Greci to _St. Paul’s Cathedral_ (San Paolo),
before whose portal are planted cannons as in the time of the Order. The
sumptuous interior contains many marble tombstones of Maltese bishops.
Fine choir-stalls of 1480. The Strada dei Bastioni behind the church
commands an extensive view.
In Museum Road, not far from the Piazza Sakkaya, is a Roman house,
excavated in 1881, now converted into a _Museum_, containing mosaic
pavements, statues, bronzes, and glass (fee 3_d._).—The adjacent
_Esplanade_ affords a fine view of Musta, the town-walls of Notabile,
and the pleasant green valley at the foot of the _Imtarfa Hill_, with
the barracks and the Museum Station (terminus of the railway, which goes
through a tunnel under Notabile).
The parish church of _San Paolo_, in the Piazza Parrocchiale of the
suburb of Rabato, stands over a cavern, in which, according to the
legend, St. Paul dwelt during his three months’ stay in the island in
the year 62. From the church the Strada San Cataldo and Strada Sant’
Agata soon lead to the _Catacombs of St. Paul_ and the _Cemetery of St.
Agatha_, both pre-Christian in origin but used in Christian times (fee
3_d._).
To the N.W. of Notabile rise the _Bingemma Hills_ (784 ft.), with
Phœnician rock-tombs and a fort on the coast.—About 2 M. to the S.W.
of Notabile, near _Casal Dingli_, is the _Naval Signal Station_ (847
ft.), the highest point in the island, whence we overlook the whole
group of islands and the surrounding sea.—Some 2 M. to the S. of
Notabile lies the _Boschetto_, a large public garden (carr., see p.
399), adjoining the _Verdala Palace_ (1586), once a summer seat of the
Grand Masters (now that of the governors).—To the S.E. is (4½ M.)
_Casal Krendi_ (carr., see p. 399), near the luxuriantly wooded gorge
of _Makluba_, 132 ft. deep, probably formed by an earthquake. We may
visit (20 min. to the W.) the prehistoric ruins of _Hagiar Kim_,
buildings of huge blocks of stone without mortar. About 7 min. farther
to the W. are the similar ruins of _Mnaidra_.
_St. Paul’s Bay_ (Baia di San Paolo; carr., see p. 399) on the N. side
of the island, 5½ M. to the N. of Notabile, with the islet of _Selmun_
(colossal statue of the apostle), is the supposed scene of St. Paul’s
shipwreck.
The sister island of =Gozo= (p. 397), to the N.W. of Malta, the ancient
_Gaulos_, Maltese _Ghaudex_, which also was once fortified by the
Maltese Order, is more fertile and varied than the main island. The
coast is precipitous all round. The small local boat (p. 400) crosses in
1½ hr., affording a fine view of the N.E. coast of Malta, and, on the
way back, of the caves on the W. shore of Comino. We land in _Migiarro_
or _Miggiar Bay_ (Malt. _Mjiar_), on the S. coast of Gozo, below _Fort
Chambré_ (1750), where carriages are in waiting (to Victoria and back
3_s._, whole day 5_s._).
_Victoria_ (299 ft.; Duke of Edinburgh Hotel, and others; pop. 5000),
called _Rábat_ down to 1887, the capital and episcopal residence of
Gozo, lies in the centre of the island, 4 M. to the N.W. of the
landing-place. The streets show a good many relics of mediæval
architecture (comp. p. 402). The neglected _Citadel_ dates from 1600.
The women of Gozo are much occupied with lace-making.
A branch of the road from the harbour to Victoria leads to the village
of _Sciarra_ (486 ft.; Maltese _Casal Xaghra_). Below Sciarra, on a
height covered with fruit-trees, rises the _Torre dei Giganti_ (Malt.
_Ggantija_), similar to the ruins of Hagiar Kim (p. 403; adm. by leave
of the proprietor, Marquis Cassar Desain).