387 M. STEAMBOAT LINES (agents at Genoa, see p. 114; at Naples, p.
137). =1.= _Cunard_ (New York and Trieste Line), once monthly to
Naples.—=2.= _White Star_ (for New York or Boston), once monthly to
Naples (3_l._ 5_s._).—=3.= _North German Lloyd_ (for New York), two or
three times a month, in 21 hrs.; also (for Port Said) every second
Thurs. to Naples, in about 24 hrs.; also Mediterranean-Levant Service
(for Catania, Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople; RR. 23, 27, 77, 80),
every second Sat., in about 26 hrs. (70.40 or 48.20 marks).—=4.=
_Hamburg-American_ (for New York), once or twice monthly to Naples (80
fr.).—=5.= _Società Nazionale_: Line XX every Wed. night to Naples
(and Messina, etc.; circular trip, comp. p. 142) in 33 hrs. (52 or 34
fr.); Lines V, X, & XI every Mon. and Tues. to Leghorn and Naples in
42–48 hrs. (63 or 42 fr.); Line I monthly to Naples (for Port Said and
Bombay).—=6.= _La Veloce_, to Naples (for Teneriffe and S. America),
comp. p. 114.—=7.= _Lloyd Sabaudo_, 1–3 times monthly to Naples
(Palermo and New York).—=8.= _Italian Lloyd_, 1–3 times monthly to
Naples and New York.—=9.= _Hungarian Adria Co._ (comp. R. 23), Tues.
and Sat., to Naples in 36 hrs.; fare, without food, 24 fr.
_Genoa_, see p. 113. In departing we survey in clear weather the whole
of the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lies the _Riviera di Levante_, as
far as the _Monte di Portofino_ (2000 ft.; p. 117); on the right are the
_Ligurian Alps_, snow-capped in winter, and the _Riviera di Ponente_ as
far as _Cape Mele_ (p. 113).
The vessel steers for the island of Gorgona (see below), passing Monte
di Portofino at a distance of 6 or 7 M., and then gradually leaves the
coast; the last place visible is _Chiavari_ on the beautiful _Bay of
Rapallo_. Beyond the headland of _Punta del Mesco_, where the slopes of
the _Cinque Terre_, a famous wine-country, descend abruptly to the sea,
appear the rocky islet of _Tino_ (302 ft.; lighthouse) and the fortified
island of _Palmária_ (614 ft.), at the S. point of the _Gulf of Spezia_.
The distant pinnacles of the _Apuan Alps_ are seen in clear weather. Of
_Leghorn_ (p. 143), where some of the Italian steamers call, the lights
only are visible at night.
The islands of _Gorgona_ and _Capraia_ (p. 143) lie on the right; behind
the latter sometimes peep the mountains of _Corsica_ (p. 143). From the
Ligurian we now pass into the _Tyrrhenian Sea_, either through the
_Strait of Piombino_, between the port of _Piombino_ and the rocky islet
of _Palmaiola_, or through the _Palmaiola Strait_, between that islet
(lighthouse) and _Elba_ (p. 143). By _Follónica_, near Piombino, some
furnaces, where iron from Elba is smelted, gleam through the night.
Beyond the _Bay of Portoferraio_ and _Capo della Vita_, the N.E. point
of Elba, are seen near _Rio Marina_ the reddish-black hills where the
iron-ore comes to the surface. Farther to the S. is seen the depression
of the bay of _Porto Longone_.
[Illustration: NAPOLI]
The _Promontory of Castiglione_, in the midst of the marshy _Maremma
Toscana_, and the small group of the islands of _Formíche di Grosseto_
remain some way to the left. The steamer then passes through a strait
between the steep headland of _Monte Argentario_ (2083 ft.) and the
island of _Giglio_ (1634 ft.), each with its lighthouse. On the right
lies the islet of _Giannutri_ (305 ft.).
Steering towards the seaport of _Civitavecchia_ and _Cape Linaro_, we
see the distant _Maremma di Roma_, backed by the volcanic _Tolfa Mts._
(2011 ft.). Above the _Roman Campagna_ rise the _Sabine_ and _Alban
Mts._, followed by the _Volscian Mts._ (Monti Lepini) and the _Monte
Circeo_ (1775 ft.) in the _Pontine Marshes_. Farther on, we obtain a
glimpse of _Terracina_, the distant hills on the _Gulf of Gaëta_, and,
to the S.W., the _Ponza Islands_ (p. 133).
In the foreground we next sight _Vesuvius_ and the island of _Ischia_
with _Monte Epomeo_ (2589 ft.), by which _Capri_ is at first concealed.
The steamers usually pass between Ischia and _Procida_, but sometimes
through the _Strait of Procida_, between that island and _Cape Miseno_.
The *_Bay of Naples_, which we now survey in its full expanse, from the
_Bay of Pozzuoli_ and the hill of _Posilipo_ to the _Peninsula of
Sorrento_ (p. 154), is strikingly picturesque.
=Naples.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The Mediterranean and New York steamers of
the North German Lloyd and those of the Società Nazionale are berthed
at the Immacolatella Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5). Passengers by other steamers
are landed at that quay by boat, those from the Lloyd and Orient Royal
Lines free of charge by steam-tender or boat respectively, from others
by rowing-boat (1 fr., with luggage, but bargain advisable).
Travellers should be on their guard against boatmen wearing the
jerseys of well-known steamboat-lines though not employed by these
companies. Porter (facchino) for small valise 40, trunk 80 c.
The =Railway Station= (_Stazione Centrale_, Pl. H, 3) lies at the E.
end of the city, 12 min. from the Immacolatella Nuova (see above), and
½¾ M. from most of the hotels. Here arrive all the express trains from
the north, such as those from Verona (18½–20¼ hrs.), from Milan (17
hrs.), from Turin (17½–22½ hrs.), and from Venice (20 hrs.). As the
delivery of luggage is a slow process, the traveller who is willing to
pay somewhat more may drive straight to his hotel without it, and have
it sent later. Porter (_facchino_) for each small package 15, for each
trunk 25 c.
=Hotels= (often full in spring). Of the very first class: *BERTOLINI’S
PALACE HOTEL (Pl. p; C, 6), in the Parco Grifeo (with lift from the
Corso Vittorio Emanuele; 245 ft.), R. from 6 (Jan.–May 10) fr., B. 2,
déj. 5, D. 8 fr.; *EXCELSIOR (Pl. o; F, 7), Via Partenope 24, R. from
6, B. 2, déj. 5, D. 7 fr., new; *GRAND-HÔTEL (Pl. d; B, 7), Piazza
Principe di Napoli, near the sea, at the W. end of the Villa Nazionale
(p. 141), R. from 6, B. 1¾, déj. 4½, D. 7 fr.—In the higher quarters,
with beautiful views: Corso Vittorio Emanuele 168, *BRISTOL (Pl. a; D,
6), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr.; No. 135, *PARKER’S (Pl. b; C,
6), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5½ fr.; adjacent, No. 133,
*MACPHERSON’S HÔT. BRITANNIQUE (Pl. q; C, 6), R. 4–6 (Jan.-April, 5–8)
fr., B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.; *GRAND EDEN (Pl. u; C, 6), Parco
Margherita 1, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5½ fr.; BELLEVUE (Pl. t; C,
6), Corso Vittorio Emanuele 142, R. 3½–4½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.
=In the lower quarters.=—Via Partenope, facing the sea: No. 23,
*GR.-HÔT. SANTA LUCIA (Pl. m; F, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 6
fr.; No. 22, *GR.-HÔT. DU VÉSUVE (Pl. g; E, 7), R. from 6, B. 1½, déj.
4, D. 6 fr.; *GR.-HÔT. VICTORIA (Pl. v; E, 7), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj.
4, D. 6 fr.; No. 14, *ROYAL DES ETRANGERS (Pl. i; E, 7), R. from 6, B.
1½, déj. 4, D. 6 fr. Piazza del Municipio (convenient for passing
travellers): *GR.-HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. l; F, 6), R. from 5, B. 1½,
déj. 3½, D. 5 fr. Overlooking the sea, Via Partenope and Strada
Chiatamone 55, HASSLER (Pl. k; E, 7), R. 5–10, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5
fr., good; Via Caracciolo 15, SAVOY (Pl. r; B, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½,
déj. 4, D. 5 fr. Riviera di Chiaia (Pl. D, C, B, 7), with view of the
Villa Nazionale and the sea: No. 276, *GR. BRETAGNE & ANGLETERRE (Pl.
e; D, 7), R. from 4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr.—By the sea, Via
Partenope 20, *CONTINENTAL (Pl. c; E, 7), R. 3½–7, B. 1½, déj. 3, D.
4½ fr. Strada Medina 76 (convenient for passing travellers), ISOTTA &
GENÈVE (Pl. s; F, 5), R. 4½–6, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4½ fr. By the sea,
entrance Strada Chiatamone 59, MÉTROPOLE & VILLE (Pl. h; E, 7), R.
from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3½, D. 3–4½ fr., good. Riviera di Chiaia 127, with
view of the Villa Nazionale and the sea, RIVIERA (Pl. f; C, 7), R.
3–4, B. 1½, déj. 3½, D. 5 fr., good. Strada Santa Lucia 37, ELDORADO
MODÉRN (Pl. x; E, 7), R. from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.
Unpretending: LA PATRIA (Pl. w; F, 5) Via Guglielmo Sanfelice 47, R.
3½–5 fr., good; HÔT. DE NAPLES, Corso Umberto Primo 55, R. 4–5 fr.;
HÔT. MILAN & SCHWEIZERHOF, Piazza del Municipio 84, R. 3–4 fr., RUSSIE
(Pl. n; F, 7), Strada Santa Lucia 82, R. 2½–3½ fr., both plain.
=Restaurants= (_Ristoranti_, _Trattorie_; Italian style, à la carte).
_Giardini Internazionali_, Via Roma, entrance Vico Tre Re 60, good
cuisine; _Giardini di Torino_, Via Roma 292; _Ristorante Milanese_,
Galleria Umberto Primo, N. Italian cookery; _Scotto Jonno_, Galleria
Principe di Napoli (Pl. F, 3), déj. 2 fr., _Nic. Esposito_, Salita del
Museo 62 (these two suitable for visitors to the Museum); _Renzo e
Lucia_, _Mira Napoli_, both at the terminus of tramway-line Nr. 7 (for
visitors to San Martino); _Ristorante Bella Vista_ (p. 142), on the
hill of Posilipo.—=Beer.= *_Pilsener Urquell_, Strada Santa Brigida
36; _Bavaria_, Galleria Umberto Primo, opposite the Teatro San Carlo,
good.
=Cafés.= _Gambrinus_, Piazza San Ferdinando, also restaurant,
_Calzona_, Galleria Umberto Primo, at both evening concerts;
_Nazionale_, Villa Nazionale (p. 141), near the Aquarium.—=Tea Rooms.=
Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E, 7). open 3–8 p.m. only, fashionable; Via
Domenico Morelli 8 (Pl. E, 7); Strada di Chiaia 143 (Caflish,
confectioner).—=Bars=, numerous in Via Roma.
=Taximeter Cabs.= All the fares given below are for drives within the
city; charges for drives outside the city at any time of day are the
same as the night-fares given below.
a. BY DAY: _Open one-horse carriage_ (for 2 pers., or 3 at most), for
the first 1500 metres (ca. 1 M.) or 12 min. waiting 40 c., for each
additional 500 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._, for 4–6
pers., 60 and 20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ (‘coupé’), for the
first 1200 m. (ca. ¾ M.) or 12 min. waiting 50 c., each addit. 400 m.
or 4 min. waiting 10 c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min.
waiting 80 c., each addit. 200 m. or 2½ min. waiting 10 c.; each
addit. pers. above three 40 c.—b. BY NIGHT (midnight to dawn): _Open
one-horse carriage_ for the first 1200 m. or 12 min. waiting 40 c.,
each addit. 400 m. or 4 min. waiting 10 c. (_two-horse carr._ 60 and
20 c.). _Closed one-horse carriage_ for the first 1000 m. or 12 min.
waiting 50 c., each addit. 333⅓ m. (ca. 365 yds.) or 4 min. waiting 10
c. _Motor Cab_, for the first 1000 m. or 12½ min. waiting 80 c., each
addit. 100 m. (ca. 110 yds.) or 2 min. waiting 10 c.; each pers. above
three 80 c.
Luggage up to 25 kilos (55 lbs.) 10 c., up to 50 kilos 20 c.; small
articles free.—In order to avoid misunderstandings the driver should
be asked to repeat the given direction before starting. The numerous
tramways and omnibuses will generally enable the traveller to dispense
with cabs.
=Tramways= (numbered; fare 15–40 c., 5 c. less in 2nd class; cars stop
regularly at stations called _sezione_, and when required at those
bearing the name _fermata_).
Chief lines: =1.= _Piazza Sette Settembre_ (in front of Spirito Santo;
Pl. E, 4; Via Roma, p. 139) to the Posta (Pl. F, 5), Piazza del
Municipio, Piazza San Ferdinando, Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7),
Torretta (Pl. B, 7), and _Strada Nuova di Posilipo_ (p. 142).—=4.=
_National Museum_ (Pl. E, F, 3; p. 139) to the Piazza Cavour, Central
Station (Pl. H, 3; p. 135), Castel del Carmine (Pl. H, 4), Strada
Nuova (Pl. G, H, 5), Strada del Piliero, and Piazza del Municipio;
thence as No. 1 to the _Torretta_.—=6.= _Piazza Dante_ (Pl. E, F, 4;
p. 139) to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3), Corso
Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141), and _Torretta_ (Pl. B, 7).—=7.= _Piazza
Dante_ to National Museum, Via Salvator Rosa, Antignano (Pl. B, C, 4;
p. 142), and _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; by San Martino, p.
141).—=11.= _Piazza San Ferdinando_ (Pl. E, 6), to Strada del Piliero,
Strada Nuova (Pl. F, G, 5, 6; harbour), Via del Duomo (Pl. G, F, 4,
3), and _Strada delle Vérgini_ (Pl. F, 3).
=Funiculars= (every 10–20 min.; up 20 or 15, down 15 or 10 c.). =1.=
_Funicolare di Chiaia_, Parco Margherita (Pl. C, 6), to Corso Vittorio
Emanuele and Via Cimarosa (Pl. C, 5).—=2.= _Funicolare di Monte Santo_
to Strada Monte Santo (Pl. E, 4; 4 min. from Piazza Dante), Corso
Vittorio Emanuele, and Castel Sant’Elmo (Pl. D, 5).
=Omnibuses= (10 c.), among others, from Piazza San Ferdinando (Pl. E,
6) and from Largo della Vittoria (Pl. D, 7) to the National Museum.
=Steamboat Agents.= _Cunard_, Nic. Ferolla, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice
59; _Union Castle_, _Anchor Line_, _Orient_, and _Hungarian Adria_,
Holme & Co. (see below); _White Star_ and _Hamburg-American_, Piazza
della Borsa 21; _North German Lloyd_, Aselmeyer & Co., Corso Umberto
Primo 6 (goods-office, Piazza della Borsa 33); _German East African_,
Kellner & Lampe, Piazza della Borsa 8; _Austro-Americana_, Fornari &
Massara, Via Francesco Denza 2; _Messageries Maritimes_, Fratelli
Gondrand, Corso Umberto Primo 128; _Società Nazionale_, Via Agostino
Depretis 18; _Peninsular & Oriental_, _Thomson Line_, _Ferrovie dello
Stato_ (steamer service), Spanier, Piazza della Borsa 9; _Navigazione
Generale_, Via Agostino Depretis; _La Veloce_, same street, No. 26.
=Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. F, 5), Palazzo Gravina, Strada
Monteoliveto.
=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _S. J. A. Churchill_, Via dei Mille
40 (Pl. D, 6); vice-consul, _A. Napier_.—U. S. Consul, _A. H.
Byington_, Piazza del Municipio 4 (Pl. F, 6).
=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Galleria Vittoria (Pl. E,
7).—=Goods Agents.= _American Express_, Via Vittoria 27; _Elefante &
Co._, Piazza del Municipio 66; _Fratelli Gondrand_, Corso Umberto
Primo 128.—=Lloyd’s Agents.= _Holme & Co._, Via Guglielmo Sanfelice
24.
=Churches.= _English_ (_Christ Church_; ‘Chiesa Inglese’; Pl. D, 7),
Strada San Pasquale; _Presbyterian_ (‘Chiesa Scozzese’), Vico Cappella
Vecchia 2; _American_, Viale Principessa Elena 15.
=Sights.= (The churches are usually open in the morning and towards
evening. The Museums are closed on great festivals.) _Museo Nazionale_
(p. 139), week-days 10–4, May-Oct. 9–3, adm. 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1
free.—_San Martino_ (p. 141), week-days 10–4, 1 fr.; Sun. 9–1,
free.—_Aquarium_ (p. 141), daily, 2 fr.; Sun. and holidays 1 fr.
_Naples_, Ital. _Napoli_, once the capital of the kingdom of Naples, and
now that of a province, is the most important seaport and after Milan
the most populous city of Italy (492,000 inhab.). It lies in 40°51′ N.
lat. and 14°15′ E. long., on the N. side of the bay named after it, at
the foot and on the slopes of several hills. Its site and environs are
among the most beautiful in the world. The vicissitudes of its history
are as remarkable as those of its volcanic soil. Here in hoar antiquity
Greeks from _Kyme_ (Cumæ) founded _Parthenope_, afterwards called
_Palaeopolis_ or ‘old town’, and _Neapolis_, or ‘new town’. Here, too,
Ostrogoths, Byzantines, Normans, and Hohenstaufen held sway. Charles of
Anjou (1266–85) made Naples his capital, which was much extended by
Ferdinand I. of Aragon (1458–94), by the Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de
Toledo (1532–53), and by the Bourbon Charles III. (1748–59). At length
in 1860 the kingdom and city were united to the kingdom of Italy. In
historic and artistic monuments Naples is far poorer than the towns of
Northern and Central Italy; but the matchless treasures from Pompeii and
Herculaneum preserved in the Museum, which present a new and fascinating
picture of ancient life, afford ample compensation.
A line drawn from the _Castel Sant’Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5; p. 141) to the
_Pizzofalcone_ (Pl. E, 7), a height which terminates in the narrow rock
of the _Castello dell’Ovo_, divides the city into two parts. To the E.
lie the oldest and busiest quarters, of which the long _Via Roma_ (p.
139) is the main street. The smaller part of the town, the strangers’
quarter, extends along the shore to the W. from the Pizzofalcone and up
the slopes of Sant’Elmo and _Posilipo_ (p. 142).
The HARBOUR QUARTER, and particularly the lanes between the Strada Nuova
(Pl. G, H, 5) and the broad Corso Umberto Primo (Pl. F-H, 5, 4), which
leads to the station, still present diverse scenes of popular life.
Through this quarter the Strada del Duomo (p. 140) leads to the Strada
Foria and the _Museum_ (p. 139).
Passing the _Immacolatella Vecchia_ (Pl. G, 5), we follow the Strada del
Piliero (Pl. G, F, 5, 6; tramways Nos. 4 and 11; see p. 137) to the
_Molo Angioino_ (Pl. F, G, 6), the old quay which separates the _Porto
Mercantile_ from the _Porto Militare_.
Adjacent, on the W., lies the PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO (Pl. F, 6), with the
_Municipio_ or town-hall at its W. end. On the S.E. side of this piazza
is the approach to the—
=Castel Nuovo= (Pl. F, 6), built for Charles I. of Anjou in 1279–83, and
afterwards much enlarged. It was the residence successively of the kings
of the houses of Anjou and Aragon and the Spanish viceroys, but is now
used as barracks. The inner gateway of the castle (adm. free) consists
of a *_Triumphal Arch_, flanked with two towers, in the early
Renaissance style, erected in 1451–70 in memory of the entry of Alphonso
I. of Aragon (1442).
From the Piazza del Municipio the Strada San Carlo leads to the S.W. to
the =Galleria Umberto Primo= (Pl. E, F, 6), built in 1887–90, and vying
with the grand arcade at Milan, and to the—
PIAZZA SAN FERDINANDO (Pl. E, 6), the business centre of the city.
(Tramcars and omnibuses, see p. 137.) On the E. side rises the _Teatro
San Carlo_ (Pl. F, 6), dating from 1737, one of the largest in Europe.
Adjacent, in the large Piazza del Plebiscito, rises the =Palazzo Reale=
(Pl. F, 6), begun in 1600.
At the Piazza San Ferdinando begins the VIA ROMA, the chief artery of
traffic, named the _Toledo_ down to 1870, after its founder Don Pedro de
Toledo (1540). With its continuation the Salita del Museo Nazionale it
ascends for over a mile, between the lanes on the slope of the Sant’Elmo
hill, on the left, and the chief business part of the city, on the
right, to the National Museum. This long line of streets, poor
architecturally, is broken only by the small Largo della Carità (Pl. E,
5) and the Piazza Dante (Pl. E, F, 4). About halfway between these the
Via Domenico Capitelli diverges to the right to the church of—
_Santa Chiara_ (Pl. F, 4), the Pantheon of Naples, built in 1310–40, but
tastelessly restored in 1742–57. The interior, planned in the French
Gothic style, resembles a great public hall. Behind the high-altar is
the Gothic *Monument of Robert the Wise (d. 1343), the founder of the
church. The transepts contain the monuments of other Angevin kings.
The **=Museo Nazionale= (Pl. E, F, 3), built in 1586 as cavalry
barracks, was the seat of the University from 1616 to 1780, but since
1790 has been occupied by the royal art-collections, which are among the
finest in the world. Adm., see p. 137.
On the GROUND FLOOR, in the E. wing on the right of the vestibule, are
the *Greek Sculptures in marble. Entering by the first door, we begin
our visit with the colonnade of the archaic sculptures (Marmi
Arcáici). In the centre: 6009, 6010. Harmodios and Aristogeiton (p.
506).—Turning to the right, we enter the rooms on the S. side of the
building, which contain sculptures of the First Golden Age of Greek
art (5th cent.). In the central room, 6322. Bust of Athena, probably
after _Cephisodotus_ (father of Praxiteles); by the window, two
statues of Aphrodite (after _Alcamenes_?); I. Room on the right, 6005.
So-called Hera Farnese; II. Room on the left, *6727. The famous
Orpheus relief; *6024. Statue of Athena (after _Phidias_?). Also, in
II. R. on the right, fine Mosaics.
From the colonnade of the archaic sculptures we pass through R. II
into the Flora colonnade, the rooms on the right of which contain the
sculptures of the Second Golden Age of Greek art (4th cent.) and of
the later Greek or Hellenistic period. In the central room, 6306.
Bearded Dionysus, after _Praxiteles_. I. Side-Room on the right,
*6035. Torso of Aphrodite; without a number, Torso of a man sitting, a
replica of the so-called Ares Ludovisi, after _Lysippus_. II.
Side-Room, Farnese Hercules, after _Lysippus_, but coarsened. III.
Side-Room on the left, Farnese Bull, a colossal group, after
_Apollonius_ and _Tauriscus_ of Rhodes.
The third colonnade contains coloured sculptures. In the side-rooms
are fragments of sculptures and buildings. Crossing the vestibule to
the W. wing, we enter the—
Colonnade of the Greek portrait-statues (Portico Iconográfico). On the
right, *6018. Æschines, the Athenian orator; 6023. Homer; 6135.
Euripides.—Straight on, we next come to the Portico degli Imperatori,
containing Greek and Roman portraits. In the centre, *Hermes of a
Greek philosopher. In the side-rooms, Roman sculptures and
architectural fragments. The central of these rooms contains the
celebrated *Mosaic of the Battle of Alexander.
The remaining rooms contain the *Collection of the larger antique
bronzes. The chief rooms (I, II Bronzes from Pompeii, III-V from
Herculaneum) are on the S. front of the Museum. Room I. 5003. Young
Dionysos (so-called Narcissus). Room II. 5630. Archaic statue of
Apollo playing on the lyre; 4997. Victory. Room III. 5625. Hermes
reposing, _School of Lysippus_; 5633. Boy’s head (end of 5th cent.);
*4885. Bust of the Doryphorus (spear-bearer), after _Polycletus_;
*5618. Head of bearded Dionysus, after a work of the _School of Myron_
(5th cent.). Room V. 5616. Hellenistic poet (the so-called Seneca).
In the MEZZANINO (entresol), on the right, is the *Collection of
ancient wall-paintings (Affreschi Pompeiani) from Pompeii,
Herculaneum, etc.—Room I. 9105. Briseis carried off from the tent of
Achilles; 9559. Nuptials of Zeus and Hera. Room II. 8976. Medea about
to slay her children; 9286. Dionysus and the sleeping Ariadne. Passage
to R. V, 9180. ‘Cupids for sale’. Room V. 8834. Girl gathering
flowers; 9295. Bacchantes and Satyrs; 9133. Centaurs; 9118–21.
Rope-dancing satyrs.
The FIRST FLOOR (Primo Piano) contains, in the E. wing, to the left of
the staircase, the two Sale dei Commestibili, devoted to provisions,
textiles, pigments, etc. from Pompeii; also seven rooms on the N. side
of the building, occupied by the *Collection of the smaller bronzes
(Piccoli Bronzi), and by interesting domestic furniture from Pompeii,
affording an admirable idea of the ancient style of living.
The whole of the W. wing is occupied by the Pinacotéca or
picture-gallery, chiefly of Italian works. Room I. _Correggio_,
Betrothal of St. Catharine. Room II. *_Titian_, Danae (1545), Pope
Paul III. Farnese (1543 and 1545), and Philip II. of Spain. Room III.
_Sebast. del Piombo_, Holy Family, Popes Hadrian VI. and Clement VII.
Room IV. _Raphael_, Holy Family (Madonna del divino Amore). Room V.
_Sandro Botticelli_, Madonna.
The other rooms contain Renaissance objects (Oggetti del Cinquecento),
the Engravings, and the National Library.
The SECOND FLOOR (Secondo Piano) is dedicated to antique glass, gold
and silver plate, cut gems, etc., a most interesting and extensive
collection, one of the finest of its kind.
The N.E. QUARTER, between the Museum and the Central Station (tramways
Nos. 4 and 11; p. 137), also boasts of its sights.
We follow the long Piazza Cavour (Pl. F, 3) to the N.E. from the Museum,
and at the beginning of the Via Foria descend the Strada del Duomo to
the right to the (4 min.)—
=Cathedral= (Pl. G, 3; _San Gennaro_; best seen about noon), a Gothic
edifice, built in 1272–1323, but repeatedly modernized. The third chapel
in the right aisle is the famous Cappella di San Gennaro or Cappella del
Tesoro, added to the church in 1608–37; the altar contains two phials of
the blood of St. Januarius, which is miraculously liquefied thrice
yearly. The crypt, below the high-altar, shows the finest example of
Renaissance decoration in Naples (1497–1507). From the left aisle is
entered the basilica of _Santa Restituta_, the old cathedral, founded in
the 7th century.
The church of _San Giovanni a Carbonara_ (Pl. G, 3), in the street of
that name, a little way to the N.E. of the cathedral, contains, at the
back of the high-altar (1746), the late-Gothic *Monument of king
Ladislaus (d. 1414), by Andreas de Florentia.
At the end of the street, opposite the _Castel Capuano_ (Pl. G, 3; now
law-courts), built by Emp. Frederick II. in 1231, rises the—
*=Porta Capuana= (Pl. G, H, 3), one of the finest of Renaissance
gateways, built by the Florentine Giuliano da Maiano (1485), with
sculptures by Giovanni da Nola (1535).
[Illustration: DINTORNI DI NAPOLI]
[Illustration: GULFO DI SALERNO]
The chief approach from the Piazza San Ferdinando (p. 138) to the W.
quarters is by the animated STRADA DI CHIAIA (Pl. E, 6). From its W. end
we proceed along the Strada Santa Caterina, bearing to the left, cross
the Piazza dei Martiri, and follow the Via Calabritto, with its numerous
shops, to the—
LARGO DELLA VITTORIA (Pl. D, 7; tramways, Nos. 1 and 4, and omnibus, see
p. 137). This piazza may be reached also from the Rione Santa Lucia on
the E. side by the Via Parténope (Pl. F, E, 7), which leads along the
coast, past the _Costello dell’Ovo_ (p. 138), and affords fine views. On
the W. side of the Largo lies the—
*=Villa Nazionale= (Pl. C, D, 7), usually called _La Villa_, a beautiful
public garden planted with palms, bounded on the seaside by the Via
Caracciolo, the fashionable promenade of Naples, and on the side next
the town by the Riviera di Chiaia. A band plays here on Sun., Tues., and
Thurs., 2–4 o’clock (June-Oct. 9–11 p.m.). In the middle of these
grounds is the—
_Zoological Station_, founded in 1872 by the German naturalist A. Dohrn
(d. 1909). The central building contains the *=Aquarium= (Pl. D, 7;
adm., see p. 137), which presents an unrivalled and most interesting
picture of submarine life.
The winding =Corso Vittorio Emanuele=, over 2½ M. long, ascends from the
coast a little way beyond the Villa Nazionale, or it may be reached from
the Museum by the Via Salvator Rosa (Pl. E, 3; tramway No. 6, see p.
137). Above the ‘Villa’, on the S. slope of the Sant’ Elmo Hill, are
situated the best hotels.
On the hills to which the two funiculars and tramway No. 7 (p. 137)
ascend from the lower town lies the new quarter of _Rione Vómero_ (Pl.
C, D, 5). On its E. side rises the old _Castel Sant’ Elmo_ (Pl. D, 5;
817 ft.), fortified with huge walls and with passages hewn in the tufa
rock, and now used as a military prison. From the outer gate of the
castle, at the tramway-terminus, we descend to the E. to the suppressed
Carthusian monastery of—
*=San Martino= (Pl. D, 5; adm., see p. 137), a Gothic building of the
14th cent., tastefully restored in the baroque style about 1650. The
church, the old farmacía (Room III), and the cloisters are interesting.
The other rooms contain Neapolitan memorials and art-industry
collections. Rooms XV and XVI (once the library) are filled with
Neapolitan majolicas and porcelain. From Room XXX, to the right, we
enter a *_Belvedere_ (XXXII), whose balconies offer a superb view of the
city, Vesuvius, the bay, and the fertile plain extending to the
Apennines (best by afternoon light).
A famous view (clear weather necessary) is obtained from the old
monastery of **=Camaldoli= (1503 ft.), founded in 1585 on the highest
of the hills to the N.W. of Sant’ Elmo. The rough road to it (carr.
about 6, with two horses 9–10 fr.; there and back 4½ hrs.) leaves the
city near the _Porta San Martino_ (Pl. A, B, 2), the N.W. gate of the
Cinta Daziaria or wall of the _octroi_ (town-customs). If on foot or
on donkey back (2–2½ fr. and fee to attendant; 5–6 hrs.), we go from
_Rione Vomero_ (see above) through the suburb of _Antignano_ (Pl. B,
C, 4, 5) to the little customs-office of _l’Archetiello_ (Pl. B, 4),
near which the bridle-path begins.
The monastery (suppressed, and now private property, but still
occupied by several monks; fee 30–50 c.; ladies not admitted) offers
little attraction. Straight through the garden we reach a point of
view which commands the bays of Naples and Pozzuoli, the Phlegræan
plain with its numerous extinct craters, and the Bay of Gaëta as far
as the distant Ponza Islands (p. 133).
When ladies are of the party we turn to the right, near the N.W. angle
of the monastery-wall, and descend a little to the (8 min.) gate of
the _Veduta Pagliana_ (adm. 20 c.), where the view is similar.
Travellers whose time is limited may at least visit the *_Strada Nuova
di Posílipo_ (tramway No. 1; p. 137). It is approached, beyond the Villa
Nazionale (p. 141), by the Strada di Mergellina (Pl. B, 7), from which
the Corso Vittorio Emanuele (p. 141) diverges. The Strada Nuova di
Posilipo, gradually ascending from the sea, leads between villas with
luxuriant gardens round the broad hill of _Posílipo_, which bounds the
Bay of Naples on the W., and offers, especially by evening light, superb
views of Mt. Vesuvius, the peninsula of Sorrento (p. 154), and the
island of Capri. A walk of 10 min. straight on from the tramway-terminus
brings us through a cutting to the _Bella Vista_, a point of view near
the restaurant of that name (p. 136), where we have an unimpeded view of
the bay of Pozzuoli and of the islands of Procida and Ischia (p. 135).
An interesting circular trip may be made from the Corso Vittorio
Emanuele (p. 141), up the Via Tasso (Pl. C, B, 6), with its fine points
of view, to the top of Posilipo, then along the crest of the hill to the
S.W. to the tramway-terminus, and back by the Posilipo road (a walk of
3½–4 hrs., or a drive of 1½ hr.; a cab should be taken by the hour).
For Naples and its Environs comp. also _Baedeker’s Southern Italy_, or
_Italy from the Alps to Naples_.