STEAMERS (agents at Marseilles, see p. 120; at Algiers, p. 219; at
Bougie, p. 262; at Philippeville, p. 304; at Bona, p. 309). =1.=
_Comp. Générale Transatlantique_ from Marseilles to Algiers (463 M.),
_rapide_ mail-steamers on Sun., Tues., Wed., and Frid. at noon
(returning Sun., Tues., Thurs., Frid. at noon), in 26½ hrs.; from
Marseilles to Bougie (455 M.), Tues. noon (returning Sat. evening), in
37½ hrs.; from Marseilles to Philippeville (455 M.), Sat. noon
(returning Frid. noon), in 30 hrs.; from Marseilles to Bona (462 M.),
Tues. aft. (returning Tues. night), in 31 hrs.; fares by the
mail-steamers to Algiers 96 or 69 fr.; for the other three routes 81
or 59 fr.—=2.= _Transports Maritimes_, from Marseilles to Algiers (and
back), Wed. and Sat. aft., in 35 hrs., fare 70 or 45 fr.; to
Philippeville (Bougie), Sat. aft. (returning Wed. noon) in 36 hrs.,
fare 60 or 40 fr.; to Bona, Mon. (returning Thurs.) aft., in 37 hrs.,
fare 60 or 40 fr.—=3.= _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache Co._), from
Marseilles to Algiers, _rapide_ on Thurs. noon (returning Sat. noon),
in 32 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.; _direct_ cargo-boat on Mon. aft.
(returning Frid. noon), in 36 hrs., fare 60 or 40 fr.; to
Philippeville (Bona), mail-steamer on Thurs. noon (returning Mon.
noon), in 33 hrs., fare 75 or 50 fr.
Cheap steamers to Algiers are the cargo-boats of _Caillol & Duvillard_
(50 or 30 fr.) and of _Prosper Durand_ (40 or 25 fr.).
Less frequented routes are those of the _Navigation Mixte_ from Cette
(90 M. to the W. of Marseilles) to Port Vendres and Algiers (Sat.
night; 42 hrs.; 90 or 65 fr.); the Spanish _Compañía Mallorquina_ (p.
120) from Marseilles and Barcelona to Palma and Algiers (twice
monthly; passport necessary); and the _Comp. Générale Transatlantique_
(cargo-boats), between Ajaccio and Bona (Thurs. evening; in 30–38
hrs.; 60 or 50 fr.).
_Marseilles_, see p. 119.
The ALGIERS steamer usually passes close to the E. side of the island of
_Minorca_, the eastmost of the Balearic group, where, in daylight, the
deeply indented natural harbour of _Mahon_, the chief town, specially
attracts attention. When the sea is rough the course is sometimes more
westerly, past _Cape Minorca_ (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the
island, while inland on the flat coast lies the town of _Ciudadela_; the
vessel then passes at some distance from the _Cabo de Pera_
(lighthouse), and from the hilly S.E. coast of _Majorca_, which is famed
for its stalactite caverns (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal).
At length, in clear weather, we obtain a glorious *View of the Algerian
coast, from the hills of _Cape Bengut_ (lighthouse) to the E., and the
_Jurjura Chain_ and the _Tell Atlas_ to the S.E., both snow-clad in
winter, to the wooded hill-country of _Sahel_, culminating in _Mont
Bouzaréah_, and _Cape Caxine_ (lighthouse) to the W. We now enter the
fine *_Bay of Algiers_ (p. 221), bounded by _Cape Matifou_ (lighthouse)
on the N.E. and the cliffs of the _Pointe Pescade_ on the N.W., and
survey its whole expanse. To the left, in the _Mitidja Plain_, between
Cape Matifou and the sand-hills at the mouth of the Harrach, lies
_Fort-de-l’Eau_, a sea-bathing place; beyond the Harrach, on the hill,
stands the church of _Kouba_; farther along the coast, among the houses
of _Hussein-Dey_ and _Belcourt_, lies the _Jardin d’Essai_, backed by
the gardens of _Mustapha-Supérieur_; behind the harbour of Algiers rises
the high terrace-wall of the boulevards; then, above the new town, the
white houses and lanes of the Kasba on the spurs of the hill crowned
with the _Fort l’Empereur_; lastly, on the slope of the Bouzaréah hill,
between the N.W. suburbs _Bab el-Oued_ and _St. Eugène_, appears
_Notre-Dame d’Afrique_, the mariners’ church.—Arrival in the harbour,
see p. 217.
* * * * *
On the voyage from Marseilles to BOUGIE the course is more easterly, out
of sight of the Balearic Islands. The tedium of the voyage is at length
compensated for near the Algerian coast by an imposing *View of the
mountains of _Kabylia_, which after a snowfall in winter have quite an
Alpine charm. To the W., between _Cape Sigli_ and _Cape Carbon_ (p. 264)
lies the abrupt and almost uninhabited coast of _Great Kabylia_,
overtopped by the lofty _Jebel Arbalou_ (p. 262). To the S., behind the
fine curved outline of the _Gulf of Bougie_ (p. 130), and beyond the
plain of the _Soumane Valley_, rise the heights of _Little Kabylia_,
with the deep depression of the _Agrioun Valley_, and, to the S.E., the
serrated range of _Jebel Tababor_ (6460 ft.). To the E., beyond _Cape
Cavallo_, stretches the hill-region of _Djidjelli_. In the N.E. angle of
the bay, on the S. slope of the _Jebel Gouraya_, but long concealed by
the three spurs of that mountain (Cape Carbon, p. 264, _Cape Noir_, and
_Cape Bouak_, with its lighthouse), lies most picturesquely the quiet
seaport of _Bougie_, embosomed in luxuriant evergreen vegetation (p.
262).
The crossing to PHILIPPEVILLE is specially recommended to travellers
bound for Biskra direct, as they thus avoid the long railway journey
from Algiers. The broad _Gulf of Stora_, with its numerous headlands and
creeks and its beautiful wooded hills, presents a charming picture,
especially in spring. In the background, in a pleasant creek, lies
_Philippeville_ (p. 304). In passing through the outer harbour we obtain
a good view of the town.
On the voyage to BONA the first land sighted on the Algerian coast is
the lofty _Mount Edough_ (3307 ft.; p. 169), the spurs of which extend
to the N.W. to the _Cap de Fer_ (p. 131). The steamers then enter the
_Gulf of Bona_, bounded on the W. by the _Cap de Garde_ (lighthouse),
the N.E. spur of Mt. Edough, and on the E. by _Cape Rosa_ (p. 131). On
the S. margin of the bay, above the marshy alluvial plain of the
_Seybouse_ and the _Oued Mafrag_, rise the peaks of the _Tell Atlas_.
On the W. side of the gulf, between the spurs of the Edough, lies _Bona_
(p. 309), one of the most important and most beautiful seaports of
Barbary, with rich verdure all around. Before entering the grand
harbour, commanded by the hill of the Kasba, we view the _Corniche Road_
(p. 311), while on the low hill of _Hippo_, to the S. of the town, rises
the church of _St. Augustine_ (p. 312).