FROM LISBON TO TANGIER AND (1150 M.) MARSEILLES (Naples, and Port
Said) there are regular steamboat services (from Tangier or Gibraltar
to Marseilles in 3 days) by the _German East African Line_ (E.
circular tour), once in three weeks, and the _Rotterdam Lloyd_,
fortnightly.—FROM GIBRALTAR TO MARSEILLES there are the _Peninsular &
Oriental_, the _Orient Royal_, and other lines.—Steamboat-agents at
Lisbon, Tangier, Gibraltar, and Marseilles, see pp. 8, 98, 53, 120.
From Lisbon to the Straits of _Gibraltar_, comp. p. 5; _Tangier_, p. 98;
_Gibraltar_, p. 52.
The steamer skirts the Spanish coast from Gibraltar to _Iviza_ (p. 112).
The direct route to Marseilles is through the _Balearic Sea_ (p. 112)
and the _Gulf of Lions_, where storms often prevail; but when the
mistral, or N. wind, blows a more westerly course is chosen, past the
volcanic _Columbretes_ islets (lighthouse) and along the coast of
_Catalonia_.
At length, to the S.E. of the _Rhone Delta_, and flanked with bare
limestone hills, we sight the _Bay of Marseilles_, bounded by the _Cap
Couronne_, on the left, and the _Cap Croisette_, on the right. We pass
the island of _Planier_ (lighthouse) and the islands of _Ratonneau_,
_Pomègue_, and _If_, and obtain a fine view of the church of _Notre Dame
de la Garde_ (p. 122) overlooking the city. The vessels usually steer
through the _Avant-Port Nord_ and the large new _Bassin National_ into
the _Bassin de la Gare Maritime_.
=Marseilles.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The North German Lloyd and German East
African steamers anchor in the Bassin du Lazaret (Pl. B, 1). Those of
the Générale Transatlantique Co. and Messageries Maritimes start from
the Bassin de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2, 3). Most of the great British
lines (P. & O., Orient Royal, Bibby, British India, etc.) have their
own berths, as to which careful inquiry should be made. Note that most
of these are a long way from the principal railway-station (1–1½ M.).
=Railway Stations.= The _Gare St. Charles_ (Pl. F, 2), the main
station, is the only one for through-passenger traffic. See the French
_Indicateur_ as to trains, several of which run in winter only; others
correspond with the P. & O. and other steamers for Egypt, India,
Australia, etc.
=Hotels= (mostly in noisy situations). *REGINA (Pl. f; D, 3), Place
Sadi-Carnot; *LOUVRE & DE LA PAIX (Pl. a; E, 4), *NOAILLES & MÉTROPOLE
(Pl. c; E, 4), and GRAND (Pl. b; F, 4), all in the Rue Noailles;
BRISTOL (Pl. w; E, 4), Rue Cannebière, new. These five are of the
first class (R. from 4 or 5, B. 1½, déj. 4–4½, D. 5–6
fr.).—PETIT-LOUVRE (Pl. d; E, 4), Rue Cannebière 16; GENÈVE (Pl. m; D,
4), Rue des Templiers 3, R. from 3½, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., well
spoken of; CASTILLE & LUXEMBOURG (Pl. e; E, 5), Rue St. Ferréol, R.
from 3, B. 1¼, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; DES PHOCÉENS (Pl. i; E, 4), Rue
Thubaneau 4, R. from 3, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 4 fr., good; CONTINENTAL (Pl.
j; D, 4), Rue Beauvau 6, R. from 2½, B. 1, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—Near the
Railway Station: TERMINUS HOTEL (Pl. g; F, 2), R. 5–10 fr.; *RUSSIE &
ANGLETERRE, Boul. d’Athènes 31 (Pl. E, 3), R. from 4, B. 1¼, déj. 3,
D. 4 fr.; BORDEAUX & ORIENT (Pl. k; E, 3), same boulevard, No. 11, R.
from 3, B. 1½, déj. 3, D. 3½ fr.—=Hôtels Garnis= (R. 3–4, B. 1½ fr.):
GR. NOUVEL HÔTEL (Pl. u; F, 4), Boul. du Musée 10, good; MODERN HOTEL
(Pl. s; D, 4), Rue Cannebière 50; RICHE ET DU VINGTIÈME SIÈCLE (Pl. v;
E, 4), same street, No. 1.
=Restaurants.= *_La Réserve_, Palace Hotel, Chemin de la Corniche, of
the first class.—*_Isnard_, Hôt. des Phocéens (p. 119); _de Provence_,
Cours Belsunce 12, good.—=Cafés=, best in Rue Cannebière and Rue
Noailles.—_Brasserie de l’Univers_, at the Hotel Bristol (p. 119);
_Strasbourg_, Place de la Bourse 11.
=Cabs= (_voitures de place_, same fares by day or night). In the inner
city, to the Traverse de la Joliette (Pl. B, 2) in the N., and to
Boul. de la Corderie and Boul. Notre Dame in the S.W.: _one-horse
carriage_ (2 seats) per drive, 1½, per hour 2½ fr.; _two-horse carr._
(4 seats) 2 or 3 fr.; trunk 25 c. per drive, 50 c. per hour.—As
overcharges are frequent, the tariff should be asked for.—=Motor Cabs=
(taximeters for 3 pers.), 1 fr. for the first 800 metres (ca. ½ M.),
20 c. each addit. 400 m.; 3 fr. per hour.
=Tramways= (in the town, 10 c.; no transfer tickets). Among the chief
are: from _Place de la Joliette_ (Pl. C, 2) to _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D,
7; Notre Dame de la Garde, p. 122); from _Quai de la Joliette_ to the
_Zoological Garden_ (Pl. H, 2; Palais de Longchamp, p. 122); from
_Zoological Garden_ to Boul. Notre Dame (Pl. D, 6, 7; lift to Notre
Dame de la Garde) and _Boul. Vauban_ (Pl. D, 7); from the _Cours St.
Louis_ (Pl. E, 4) viâ the Prado (p. 122), the Corniche (p. 122), and
Endoume, back to the _Cours St. Louis_ (15 c.).
=Transporter Bridge= (_Pont Transbordeur_; Pl. B, 4, 5; p. 121),
between Quai de la Tourette and Boul. du Pharo, in 2 min. (5 c.).
=Steamboat Lines.= _Peninsular & Oriental_ (Estrine & Co., Rue Colbert
18), from London to Gibraltar, Marseilles, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17,
67); _Orient Royal_ (Worms & Co., Rue Grignan 28), from London to
Gibraltar, Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 17, 23, 67);
_North German Lloyd_ (W. Carr, Rue Beauvau 16), to Goletta (Tunis) and
Alexandria, to Naples and Alexandria, also to Genoa, Naples, Catania,
the Piræus, Constantinople, etc. (RR. 22, 23, 24, 67, 77, 80); _German
East African_ (W. Carr), from Southampton to Lisbon, Tangier,
Marseilles, Naples, and Port Said (RR. 1, 23, 67); _Bibby_ (Watson &
Parker, Rue Beauvau 8), from Liverpool to Marseilles, Port Said, etc.
(R. 67); _British India_ (G. Budd, Rue Beauvau 8), from Port Said to
Genoa, Marseilles, and London; _Rotterdam Lloyd_ (Ruys & Co., Rue de
la République 29), to Port Said (R. 67); _Messageries Maritimes_
(Place Sadi-Carnot 3), to Naples, Piræus, Constantinople, and Beirut
(RR. 77, 75), also to Constantinople, Odessa, and Batum (RR. 83, 85),
also to Alexandria, Port Said, and Beirut (RR. 67, 72); _Générale
Transatlantique_ (Rue Noailles 15), to Oran and Cartagena (RR. 19,
18), also to Algiers, Bougie, Philippeville, and Bona (R. 20), also to
Tunis and Malta (R. 21, 63), and to Sfax and Susa (RR. 21, 64);
_Transports Maritimes_ (Rue de la République 70), to Gibraltar and
Madeira (R. 3), to Oran (R. 19), to Algiers, Philippeville, and Bona
(R. 20), and to Tunis (Susa; RR. 22, 64); _Navigation Mixte_ (_Touache
Co._, Rue Cannebière 54), to Oran (R. 19), to Tangier viâ Oran (RR.
19, 18), to Algiers and Philippeville (R. 20), to Tunis, Sfax, and
Tripoli (RR. 21, 64), and to Palermo (RR. 21, 26); _Chargeurs Réunis_
(Worms & Co., see above), from Dunkirk to Marseilles, Genoa, and
Naples (for E. Indies, S. America, etc.); _Fraissinet & Co._ (Place de
la Bourse 6), to Ajaccio and Bastia (and Leghorn); _N. Paquet & Co._
(Place Sadi-Carnot 4), to Oran (if required), Tangier, and the
Moroccan ocean-coast (R. 14); _Compañía Mallorquina_, to Palma
(Majorca).
=Post & Telegraph Office.= _Hôtel des Postes_ (Pl. D, 3), Rue Colbert;
branches at the railway-station (p. 119), at the Bourse (Pl. D, E, 4),
etc.
=Tourist Agents.= _Thos. Cook & Son_, Rue Noailles 11 bis; _Lubin_,
Rue des Feuillants 14.—=Banks.= _Banque de France_ (Pl. E, 6), Place
Estrangin-Pastré; _Crédit Lyonnais_, Rue St. Ferréol 25 (Pl. E, 4, 5).
=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _M. C. Gurney_, Rue des Princes 8;
vice-consuls, _T. Broadwood_, _F. J. Hamling_.—U. S. Consul-General,
_A. Gaulin_, Cours Pierre-Puget 10; vice-consul, _P. H. Cram_.
=English Church=, Rue de Bellois 4; services at 10.30 and 3.30.
_Marseilles_, Fr. _Marseille_, the second-largest city in France, with
517,500 inhab., the _Massalia_ of the Greeks and _Massilia_ of the
Romans, was founded by Greeks from Phocæa (p. 530) in Asia Minor about
600 B. C., and soon became one of the greatest seaports on the
Mediterranean. During the Roman period it vied with Athens as a seat of
Greek culture; in the middle ages it belonged to the kingdom of Arelate,
and later to the county of Provence, and in 1481 it was at length
annexed to France. Being situated at the mouth of the great and
time-honoured route through the Rhone Valley to N.W. Europe, it is the
most important of French and of all Mediterranean seaports. The total
exports and imports are estimated at 2926 million francs, and nearly 17
million tons of shipping enter and clear annually. The city is now
almost entirely modern and destitute of historical memorials.
From the _Bassin du Lazaret_ (Pl. B, 1) and _Bassin de la Joliette_ (Pl.
B, 2, 3), the southmost of the docks constructed since 1850 to the N.W.
of the old town, we follow the Quai de la Joliette to the—
*=Cathedral= (Pl. B, C, 3; _Ste. Marie Majeure_ or _La Major_), situated
on a terrace. This is one of the largest and finest churches of the 19th
cent.; it was built by _Vaudoyer_, in a mixed Byzantine and Romanesque
style, in 1852–93. Adjacent is the _Old Cathedral of St. Lazare_, which
is shown by the sacristan of the new church.
From the Place de la Major the Esplanade de la Tourette leads to the S.
to the *=Vieux Port= (Pl. C, D, 4, 5), the _Lakydon_ of the Phocæans, a
deeply indented creek, where smaller craft only are now berthed. The
entrance to it is guarded by the old forts of _Grasse-Tilly_ and
_Entrecasteaux_. Just inside the entrance the harbour is crossed by the
_Pont Transbordeur_ or _Transporter Bridge_ (p. 120); for the sake of
the view we may ascend either to the trolley-way (buffet-restaurant) or
to the top of the N. tower (steps up and down 50 c.; lift up 60, up and
down 75 c.).
On the N. side of the Quai du Port (Pl. C, D, 4), the scene of motley
popular traffic (pickpockets not uncommon), lies the OLD TOWN, with its
narrow and dirty streets, inhabited by the lower classes, including
numerous Italians of whom the city contains about 100,000. This quay
leads past the _Hôtel de Ville_ (Pl. C, 4), an interesting building of
the 17th cent., to the E. end of the Vieux Port, where begins the—
*RUE CANNEBIÈRE (Pl. D, E, 4), which for ages has been the chief boast
of the city. Here, on the left, is the _Bourse_ (Pl. E, 4), erected by
Coste in 1852–60.
This street, prolonged by the Rue Noailles, the Allées de Meilhan, etc.,
intersects the city from S.W. to N.E., and at the COURS ST. LOUIS (Pl.
E, 4), the chief centre of traffic, it is crossed by a straight line of
streets running from N.W. to S.E., the Cours Belsunce, Rue de Rome, and
Promenade du Prado, to the Rond Point (p. 122), being in all nearly 3 M.
long.
The Rue Noailles (Pl. E, 4), from the end of which the Boulevard
Dugommier ascends to the railway-station, and the pretty Allées de
Meilhan (Pl. F, 4) lead to the modern-Gothic church of _St. Vincent de
Paul_ (Pl. F, 3), with its two towers commanding a great part of the
city.
A little to the left is the Cours du Chapitre, leading into the
Boulevard Longchamp (Pl. G, H, 3, 2), a street ascending steeply to the
*=Palais de Longchamp= (Pl. H, 2). This imposing Renaissance edifice was
designed by _Espérandieu_, the architect (1862–9). The Ionic colonnade,
with a lofty triumphal arch in the centre, where a picturesque cascade
has been introduced, is flanked with two wings, the right containing the
_Natural History Museum_, and the left the _Museum of Fine Art_ (adm.
daily except Mon. and Frid., 8–12 and 2–5 or in winter 9–12 and 2–4;
closed 20th–31st Jan. and 20th–31st July).
The groundfloor contains sculptures. In the centre is the principal
hall. The room on the left contains works by the Marseillais master
_Pierre Puget_ (1622–94); in that on the right is a model of the
Monument to the Dead in Père Lachaise at Paris, by _Bartholomé_. The
staircase is adorned with a wall-painting by _Puvis de Chavannes_
(1869).
On the first floor is the picture-gallery. Among the older pictures in
the central room are: 361. _Nattier_, Duchesse de Châteauroux; 788.
_Pietro Perugino_, Holy Family; 914. _Rubens_, Boar-hunt (about 1615).
In the modern department, in the room on the left: 430. _J. Fr.
Millet_, Mother and child (1860).
The main streets of the S. quarter of the town are the Rue de Rome,
which begins at the Cours St. Louis (p. 121), and a little to the W. of
it the handsome Cours Pierre-Puget (Pl. E, D, 5, 6), ending in the
Promenade of that name.
A little to the S., on a bold rock of white limestone, is enthroned the
church of *_Notre Dame de la Garde_ (Pl. D, 7; 532 ft.), a great
landmark for mariners, where we obtain the finest view of the city and
its environs. Lift (Ascenseur; Pl. D, 7) from the Rue Cherchell (up 60,
down 30, return 80 c.; on Sun. and before 9 a.m., 40, 20, or 50 c.).
On a fine day the traveller will be repaid by a visit to the *=Chemin de
la Corniche= (comp. Pl. A, 6; tramway, p. 120). From Notre Dame de la
Garde it may be reached direct in about 40 min. by the Chemin du
Roucas-Blanc. This road, partly hewn in the rock, and shadeless, affords
fine views. It ends, near the _Château Borély_, which stands in a park
and now contains the Musée d’Archéologie, at the—
PROMENADE DU PRADO, a favourite resort of the Marseillais, planted with
plane-trees. A gay throng may be seen here on Sunday afternoons and
every fine evening. We may return thence to the town by the Rond Point
du Prado.
See also _Baedeker’s Southern France_.
From Marseilles to _Naples_, see R. 23.