15. From Gibraltar to Genoa._The Mediterranean

a. Through the Balearic Sea.

1000 M. STEAMBOATS (see ‘Gibraltar Chronicle’, and comp. pp. 53, 114).

_White Star Line_ (from New York or Boston), two or three times

monthly; _North German Lloyd_ (from Southampton), monthly; _Cunard

Line_ (from New York), occasionally; _Lloyd Sabaudo_ (from S.

America), monthly.

On leaving _Gibraltar_ (p. 52) the steamer enters the open Mediterranean

and steers to the E.N.E., generally at an accelerated speed, as far as

Cape Palos, owing to the strong current flowing in from the Atlantic (p.

5). Looking back, farther on, we enjoy in clear weather a splendid *View

of the Straits, and especially of the coast of Morocco from Cape Spartel

to the _Punta de la Almina_ (p. 123), from which peep the white houses

of _Ceuta_. The Rîf Mts. (_Jebel Beni Hassan_, p. 123) also remain

visible for a time.

The Spanish coast with the _Sierra Bermeja_, the _Sierra de Mijas_, and

the _Punta de Calaburras_ (lighthouse) gradually recedes Far away to the

left is the bay of _Málaga_. Off _Cape Sacratif_, with its lighthouse,

we obtain a grand *View of the _Sierra Nevada_ (p. 49), in front of

which rise the almost entirely barren _Sierra de Almijara_, _Sierra

Contraviesa_, and _Sierra de Gádor_. Near the _Punta del Sabinal_

(lighthouse) opens the broad semicircular bay of _Almería_; in the

foreground rise the bare hills of _Cabo de Gata_ (1683 ft.; lighthouse),

with the _Puerto Genovés_ beyond.

Steering now to the N.E., we pass the _Punta de Loma Pelada_, backed by

the _Frailes_ (‘monks’), two huge pyramids of rock; then the _Mesa de

Roldán_, the bay of _Cartagena_ (p. 125), the _Cabo Tiñoso_, _Cape

Palos_, and the island of _Hormiga Grande_, all with lighthouses.

Nearing the Balearic Islands, we may descry to the left, in very clear

weather, the coast-plain of _Murcia_ and even the distant hills of

_Alicante_, as far as _Cabo de la Nao_ and _Mongó_. The vessel now

steers round the _Balearic Islands_ (see Baedeker’s Spain and Portugal),

on the S.E. side if storms in the Gulf of Lions are expected, but

usually through the bay of _Valencia_ and the _Balearic Sea_. In this

case we pass close to the island of _Iviza_, which is flanked on the

S.W. (in front of the _Atalayasa_; 1559 ft.) by the bold rocky islet of

_Vedrá_, and on the W. by the _Bleda Islets_ and _Conejera_ (with a

lighthouse). On the N.E. point of Iviza is the lighthouse of _Punta

Grosa_. In the foreground, farther on, appear the bold limestone slopes

of the island of _Dragonera_, with a lighthouse (1191 ft.) visible for

40 M. round. Beyond it is _Mallorca_, or _Majorca_, the largest of the

Balearic Islands, whose barren mountains, culminating in the _Puig

Mayor_ (4741 ft.) in the centre, are visible to their full extent beyond

the little port of _Soller_.

From _Cape Formentor_ (lighthouse), at the N.E. point of Majorca, the

steamer proceeds due N.E. to the _Ile du Levant_ or _du Titan_

(lighthouse, visible for nearly 40 M. round), the eastmost of the _Iles

d’Hyères_ (p. 133), which flank the coast of Provence. The island of

_Porquerolles_ also, the westmost of the group, is visible. In

favourable weather the *Voyage through the _Ligurian Sea_ affords

delightful views. The steamers vary their course, but usually steer

towards Cape Ferrat near Villefranche, past _Cape Camarat_ (lighthouse),

the beautiful double bay of _Cannes_ (with the _Iles de Lérins_ opposite

to it), and the _Cap d’Antibes_. On a clear day Nice is visible in the

distance. We then skirt the _Riviera di Ponente_ (p. 118), passing

Ventimiglia, Oneglia, and Albenga, backed by the _Maritime_ and the

_Ligurian Alps_, snow-clad in winter and spring. On the picturesque

coast between Nice and Bordighera the scenery changes rapidly. After the

little bay of _Villefranche_ (_Villafranca_), with _Cape Ferrat_

(lighthouse), come _Beaulieu_, the grey rock village of _Eze_, close

under the Grande-Corniche, and _La Turbie_, overtopped by the forts

behind. We next sight the rock of _Monaco_, with its cathedral and huge

marine museum, while among the houses of the little principality may be

seen the less conspicuous casino of _Monte Carlo_. Beyond the olive-clad

_Cape Martin_ appears the bay of _Mentone_, with its superb circus of

mountains, then _Cape Mórtola_, the Italian frontier-town of

_Ventimiglia_, and, beyond the ravine of the _Roja_, the little town of

_Bordighera_, with its cape and its dense olive and palm groves. Next

come _Ospedaletti_, overlooked by the loftily-situated little town of

_Coldirodi_, and _San Remo_, on a broad bay bounded by _Capo Nero_ and

_Capo Verde_. The coast is now less attractive till we are off _Porto

Maurizio_, a provincial capital picturesquely situated on a headland,

and approach _Oneglia_.

[Illustration: GENOVA]

Near _Cape Berta_ we gradually leave the coast, pass _Cape Mele_, with

its lighthouse (742 ft.) and Marconi station for wireless telegraphy,

and steer across the *_Gulf of Genoa_. On the left lie _Laigueglia_,

_Alassio_, and, beyond the fissured island of _Gallinaria_, the little

town of _Albenga_. Next, on a semicircular coast-plain, lie the villages

of _Loano_ and _Finale Marina_, and a little beyond them rises the _Capo

di Noli_. Beyond _Cape Vado_ we overlook the bay of the industrial

seaport of _Savona_, as far as the headland of _Portofino_ (p. 134). In

the background rise the _Apennines_ and the _Apuan Alps_ (p. 134),

snow-capped in winter.

Steering through the _Avamporto_ and the _Porto Nuovo_, we obtain a

superb *View of _Genoa_, rising in a semicircle on the hill-side.

=Genoa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The passenger-steamers land at the _Ponte

Federico Guglielmo_ (Pl. A, B, 3; with custom-house, post, telegraph,

and railway offices) in the _Porto_ or inner harbour. Failing room at

that pier, they anchor near it (landing by boat, with luggage, 1 fr.;

embarkation 30, at night 50 c.), or they are berthed at the _Ponte

Andrea Doria_ (Pl. A, 3).—At the custom-house examination the facchino

of the dogana expects 20–30 c.

=Railway Stations.= =1.= _Stazione Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2; Rail.

Restaur., déj. 2–3, D. 3–4 fr.), in the Piazza Acquaverde, the chief

station for all trains, where cabs (p. 114) and omnibuses are in

waiting.—=2.= _Stazione di Brignole_ or _Orientale_ (Pl. H, I, 6), the

E. station, Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, a subsidiary station for Pisa,

Florence, Rome, etc.—Railway-tickets may be obtained also of the

_Fratelli Gondrand_, Via Venti Settembre 35, and of _Thos. Cook & Son_

(p. 114).

HOTELS (mostly in noisy situations and variously judged). *GRAND-HÔT.

MIRAMARE (Pl. mi; A, 2), Via Pagano Doria, above the principal

station, with terrace, R. from 6, D. 6, omn. 2 fr.; BERTOLINI’S

BRISTOL HOT. (Pl. p; F, 6), Via Venti Settembre 35, R. from 7, D. 7,

omn. 1½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. DE GÊNES (Pl. f; E, 5), R. from 5, D. 6–7, omn.

1 fr.; EDEN PALACE (Pl. b; G, 5), Via Serra 6–8, R. from 6, D. 5–7

fr.; GR.-HÔT. SAVOIE (Pl. s: C, 2), above Piazza Acquaverde, R. from

4, D. 5–6, omn. ½ fr.; GR.-HÔT. ISOTTA (Pl. a; F, 5), Via Roma 5–7, R.

from 5, D. 6, omn. 1½ fr.—HÔT. DE LA VILLE (Pl. d; D, 4), Via Carlo

Alberto, R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.; BRITANNIA (Pl. y; C, 2), R. from

3 fr.; MODERN HOT. (Pl. v; F, 6), R. from 4, D. 5, omn. 1 fr.;

CONTINENTAL (Pl. 1; E, 4), R. 4–10, D. 5, omn. 1–1¼ fr.—Less

pretending: HÔT. DE FRANCE (Pl. g; D, 5), R. 3–4, D. 4, omn. 1 fr.;

HOT. SMITH (Pl. e, D, 5; Engl. landlord), R. from 2½, D. 4, omn. 1

fr., good; CENTRAL (Pl. c; F, 5), R. 2–4½ fr.; ROYAL AQUILA (Pl. k; C,

2), near the principal station, R. 3–5, D. 5, omn. ½ fr., good for

passing tourists; IMPÉRIAL (Pl. im; F, 6), R. from 3½ fr.; REGINA (Pl.

q; F, 6).—=Hôtels Garnis.= SPLENDIDE (Pl. x; F, 6), BAVARIA (Pl. z; F,

5), EXCELSIOR (Pl. w; E, 5), R. in all these from 3 or 4 fr.

=Cafés.= _Roma_, Via Roma 15; _Milano_, Galleria Mazzini; both are

also restaurants.—=Restaurants= (Italian cookery). _Trattoria del

Teatro Carlo Felice_ (Pl. E, F, 5), good; _Cairo_, Via Venti Settembre

36; _Ristorante della Posta_, Galleria Mazzini, moderate, often

crowded.—=Beer.= _Giardino d’Italia_ and _Peyer_, both in Piazza

Corvetto (Pl. F, G, 5); _Gambrinus_, Via San Sebastiano (Pl. F, 5).

=Cabs.= One-horse, per drive (to the E. as far as the Bisagno, to the

W. to the lighthouse) 1, at night 1½ fr.; per hr. 2 or 2½ fr.; each

addit. ½ hr. 1 or 1¼ fr.; to _Nervi_ or _Pegli_ 5, there and back,

with ½ hr. stay, 7½ fr.—With two horses, ½ fr. extra in each

case.—Night is from 9 (in winter from 7) till sunrise.—Small packages

inside cab are free; each trunk 20 c.—MOTOR CABS (taximeter) per drive

of 1200 met. (⅔ M.) 1 fr. 20 c., each addit. 300 met. 20 c.; at night

(10 or 8 to dawn) one-fourth extra. Trunk 25 c.

=Tramways= (6 or 7 a.m. till midnight). The chief lines are: =1.=

_Piazza Principe_ (Pl. B, 2), Piazza Acquaverde (Pl. B, C, 2), Piazza

Zecca (Pl. D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio), Piazza Corvetto (Pl.

F, G, 5), and _Piazza Deferrari_ (Pl. E, 6; 10 c.).—=2.= _Piazza

Principe_, Piazza Acquaverde, Via di Circonvallazione a Monte (station

for Castellaccio at San Nicolò, Pl. E, 1), Piazza Manin (Pl. I, 4),

Piazza Corvetto, and _Piazza Deferrari_ (25 c.).—=3.= _Piazza

Caricamento_ (Pl. D, 5), Piazza Principe, Via Milano (Pl. A, 2),

Lighthouse (p. 117), San Pier d’Arena, Sestri Ponente, and _Pegli_ (p.

117; 55 c.).—=4.= _Piazza Raibetta_ (Pl. D, 5), Via di

Circonvallazione a Mare (p. 116), and _Stazione Orientale_ (Pl. H, I,

6; 10 c.).—=5.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Piazza Manin, Via Montaldo (Pl. I,

1), and _Campo Santo_ (p. 117; 15 c.).—=6.= _Piazza Deferrari_, Via

Venti Settembre, Ponte Pila (Pl. H, I, 7), and _Nervi_ (p. 117; every

¼ hr., in 50 min., 45 c.); branch to the _Lido d’Albaro_ (p. 117).

=Post Office= (Pl. F, 5), Galleria Mazzini (new building in the Piazza

Deferrari, Pl. E, 6; see p. 116), open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.—=Telegraph

Office= (Pl. E, 6), Palazzo Ducale, Piazza Deferrari.

=Steamers.= _Cunard Line_ (C. Figoli, Piazza San Marcellino 6), from

New York, Gibraltar, and Genoa to Trieste; _White Star Line_ (Piazza

Annunziata 18), to Naples, Gibraltar, and New York or Boston;

_Nederland Royal Mail_ (Agenzia Olandese, Piazza Deferrari), from

Southampton to Genoa, Port Said, and Batavia; _North German Lloyd_

(Leupold Bros., Via Garibaldi 5), for Algiers and Gibraltar, for

Naples and Port Said, for Marseilles and Barcelona, for Naples,

Catania, the Piræus, Smyrna, Constantinople, etc.; _Hamburg-American

Line_ (Piazza Annunziata 18), to Naples and New York, also

excursion-boats; _Società Nazionale_ (Via Balbi 40), for Naples and

New York (comp. R. 24); also circular tours to Cagliari, Tunis,

Tripoli, Malta, Syracuse, Messina, Naples, and back to Genoa (RR. 25,

64, 27, 24); also to Palermo, Trapani, and Syracuse; to Palermo,

Messina, the Piræus, Constantinople (Odessa and Batum); to Smyrna and

Constantinople (RR. 27, 80); to Leghorn, Naples, Messina, and

Alexandria (R. 67); to Naples and Port Said (R. 67); _La Veloce_ (Via

Garibaldi 2), to Naples and Teneriffe (for Brazil), and viâ Marseilles

and Barcelona to Teneriffe (Colón); _Italia_ (Via Venti Settembre 34)

to Teneriffe and Buenos Ayres; _Lloyd Italiano_ (Palazzo Doria, Via

Andrea Doria), for Naples and New York (R. 24); _Lloyd Sabaudo_

(Piazza San Siro), for Naples, Palermo, and New York (RR. 24, 26), and

for Tarragona, Gibraltar, and Buenos Ayres; _Compañía Trasatlántica_

(Giovanelli, Via Balbi, Salita Santa Brigida 2), for Barcelona,

Lisbon, and Liverpool, for Port Said and Manila, and for Barcelona,

Málaga, Teneriffe, and Buenos Ayres.

=Bankers.= _Kirby & Le Mesurier_, Via Carlo Felice 7; _Thos. Cook &

Son_, Piazza della Meridiana, cor. of Via Cairóli (Pl. E, 4); _Credito

Italiano_, Via San Luca 4; _Banca Commerciale Italiana_, Piazza Banchi

11 (Pl. D, 5).—MONEY CHANGERS abound near the Borsa.—BOOKSELLER. _A.

Donath_, Via Luccoli 33.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, _William Keene_, Via Assarotti 11;

vice-consul, _A. Turton_.—U. S. Consul-General, _J. A. Smith_, Via

Venti Settembre 42; vice-consul, _J. W. Dye_.

=Churches.= _English_ (_Church of the Holy Ghost_), Via Goito (Pl. G,

4; services at 8:15 and 11 a.m., occasionally also at 4 p.m.);

_Presbyterian_, Via Peschiera 4 (service at 11 a.m.).

=Sights.= _Museo Chiossone_ (p. 116), daily except Mon., 10–3, adm. 1

fr.; _Palazzo Bianco_ (p. 116), daily, Oct.-March 11–4, April-Sept.

10–4, Sun. and Thurs. ¼ fr., other days ½ fr., free on last Sun. of

each month; _Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini_ (see below), daily 11–4, fee

½–1 fr.; _Palazzo Rosso_ (p. 116), free daily, 11–4, except on Tues.,

Sun., and holidays.

_Genoa_, Ital. _Genŏva_, French _Gênes_, a city of 156,000 inhab., was a

republic and a great naval power in the middle ages, rivalling Venice,

but declined after the 16th cent.; in 1797 it became the capital of

Napoleon’s ‘Ligurian Republic’, and since 1815 has belonged to the

kingdom of Sardinia which is now merged in that of Italy. Next to

Marseilles it is the greatest of Mediterranean seaports. The exports and

imports in 1908 amounted to 6.4 million tons, and the tonnage of

shipping to 14.4 millions.

From the pier, either the Ponte Federico Guglielmo or the Ponte Andrea

Doria (p. 113), we cross the harbour-rails to the _Palazzo Doria_ (Pl.

A, B, 2), once presented by the republic to Andrea Doria (1468–1560),

the famous admiral of Charles V., and enter the PIAZZA DEL PRINCIPE (Pl.

B, 2; tramway, see p. 114), with its handsome bronze monument to the

_Marchese Deferrari_, _Duke of Galliera_ (d. 1876), to whose generosity

Genoa is partly indebted for its new quays (1877–95).

The Via Andrea Doria leads hence to the E. to the PIAZZA ACQUAVERDE (Pl.

B, C, 2), the square in front of the _Railway Station_, where, amid

palms, rises a monument to _Columbus_, who was probably born at Genoa in

1451 (d. at Valladolid in 1506).

To the S.E. from this piazza runs a narrow line of streets, the chief

artery of traffic, adorned with superb late-Renaissance edifices, built

chiefly by _Galeazzo Alessi_ (1512–72), named Via Balbi, Via Cairóli,

and Via Garibaldi, and ending at the Piazza Fontane Marose. Several of

the palaces are well worth seeing, especially for the sake of their

grand staircases.

No. 10, on the right side of the VIA BALBI, is the _Palazzo Reale_ (Pl.

C, 3), built after 1650 for the Durazzo family, and purchased in 1817

for the royal house of Sardinia. No. 5, on the left, is the =Palazzo

dell’Università= (Pl. D, 2, 3), begun by Bart. Bianco in 1623 as a

Jesuit school. The *Court and the staircases are considered the finest

in Genoa.

Farther on, to the right, No. 4 is the _Palazzo Balbi Senárega_; No. 1,

on the left, is the PALAZZO DURAZZO-PALLAVICINI (Pl. D, 3), both by

Bart. Bianco. The picture-gallery in the latter (adm., see above)

contains portraits by Rubens and Van Dyck, painted during their visits

to Genoa.

We cross the Piazza dell’Annunziata (Pl. D, 3) with the handsome baroque

church of that name on the left, and the small Piazza della Zecca (Pl.

D, E, 3; funicular to Castellaccio, p. 117), and then follow the Via

Cairóli (Pl. D, E, 4) to the—

*VIA GARIBALDI (Pl. E, 4), which is flanked with numerous palaces. No.

13, on the left, is the =Palazzo Bianco=; No. 18, on the right, the

=Palazzo Rosso=; both once belonged to the _Brignole-Sale_ family, but

were bequeathed to the city by the Marchesa Brignole-Sale (d. 1889),

widow of the Duca di Galliera (p. 115), and converted into the two

galleries named Brignole-Sale (adm., see p. 115). Most of the other

palaces were designed by Gal. Alessi.

From the Piazza Fontane Marose (Pl. F, 4, 5) the short Via Carlo Felice

leads to the S.W. to the PIAZZA DEFERRARI (Pl. E, 5, 6), the centre of

the city and focus of most of the tramway-lines (p. 114). The ACCADÉMIA

DI BELLE ARTI (Pl. E, F, 6), on the E. side of the Piazza, contains the

valuable _Museo Chiossone_ (adm., see p. 115), a collection of Japanese

and Chinese works of art.

The busy VIA ROMA (Pl. F, 5) leads to the N.E. from the Piazza

Deferrari, past (right) the _Galleria Mazzini_, to the Piazza Corvetto

(Pl. F, G, 5), adjoining which, on the left, on an old bastion is the

_Villetta Dinegro_ (Pl. F, 4; 242 ft.; fine views), a beautiful public

park.

From the S.E. side of the Piazza Deferrari, where the new buildings of

the _Exchange_ (Borsa) and the _Post Office_ are in progress (Pl. E,

F, 6), runs the broad new VIA VENTI SETTEMBRE (Pl. F-H, 6, 7), the

favourite promenade of the citizens, leading to the _Bisagno Valley_

and the _Stazione Orientate_ (p. 113). Immediately before we reach the

street-viaduct we may turn to the right, cross the Piazza Ponticello

(Pl. F, 6, 7), and ascend the Via Fieschi to *_Santa Maria di

Carignano_ (Pl. E, 8; 172 ft.), built by Gal. Alessi. The gallery of

the dome (249 steps; sacristan 25 c.) is a splendid point of view. The

Via Nino Bixio and Via Corsica (Pl. E, F, 8, 9) lead thence to the—

*=Via di Circonvallazione a Mare=, skirting the coast on the site of

the old town-ramparts, named Via Odone and Corso Aurelio Saffi (Pl.

E-H, 9, 10; tramway No. 4, see p. 114).

From the S.W. angle of the Piazza Deferrari the short Via Sellai leads

to the PIAZZA UMBERTO PRIMO (Pl. E, 6). On its N. side rises the old

_Palazzo Ducale_, or palace of the doges (telegraph-office), approached

by a handsome flight of steps. On the S.E. side is the ornate Jesuit

church of _Sant’ Ambrogio_, containing a Presentation in the Temple and

the Miracles of St. Ignatius by _Rubens_.

From the Piazza Umberto Primo the busy VIA SAN LORENZO leads to the

N.W., past the =Cathedral= (Pl. E, 5, 6; _San Lorenzo_), dating from the

12–17th cent. (in the left aisle the fine early-Renaissance chapel of

San Giovanni Battista), back to the—

HARBOUR. Following the tramway to the right to the Piazza Raibetta, we

observe on the left, between that piazza and the Piazza Caricamento, the

Gothic _Palazzo di San Giorgio_, once the seat of the great merchants’

bank of that name. Beyond the Piazza Caricamento the noisy Via Carlo

Alberto (Pl. D, C, 4–2) leads to the N. past the _Darsena_, once the

naval harbour, to the Piazza Principe and to the piers, affording a

glimpse at the harbour traffic.

* * * * *

From the Piazza della Zecca (p. 116) a FUNICULAR TRAMWAY (50 c.) ascends

every 10 min. to _San Nicolò_ (Pl. E, 1; change cars) and

*=Castellaccio=, loftily situated. At the terminus (about 1025 ft.;

Ristorante Beregardo, déj. 2½, D. 4 fr., commended) there is a splendid

view of the Bisagno Valley with the Campo Santo (see below). About ½ M.

to the N.W. rises the old fort of _Castellaccio_ (1254 ft.), which

commands an admirable survey of Genoa and the coast from Savona (p. 113)

to the headland of Portofino (p. 134).

On the rocky _Capo del Faro_, between Genoa and San Pier d’Arena, rises

the _Lanterna_, a great =Lighthouse=, 230 ft. high, from the foot of

which we obtain another extensive *View. Tramway as far as the tunnel

(No. 3; p. 114).

From the Piazza Deferrari a tramway (No. 5) leads by the Piazza Manin

(Pl. I, 4) to the N.E. to the =Campo Santo= or _Cimitero di Staglieno_;

which rises above the Val Bisagno on the N. bank.—We may take the

tramway or a motor-omnibus also to the _Lido d’Albáro_, a popular resort

and sea-bathing place below the road to Sturla and Nervi.

Favourite excursions from Genoa are (tramways Nos. 6 and 3) to

=Nervi=, 7½ M. to the E., on the Pisa line, and to =Pegli=, 6¼ M. to

the W., on the Ventimiglia line. Nervi has a beautiful marine parade,

and at Pegli is the _Villa Pallavicini_. (The entrance of the villa is

immediately to the left of the exit from the rail. station; adm. on

week-days except Frid. and festivals, 10–3; on Sun. and holidays 9–2;

fee 1 fr.)—A superb view is obtained from the =Portofino-Kulm= (1477

ft.; Hôt.-Restaur., déj. 5, D. 7 fr.), on the Monte di Portofino (p.

134). Motor-omn. direct from Genoa, Piazza Deferrari; also 4 times

daily from Recco station, 13 M. to the E., on the Pisa line.