b. Viâ Tangier and Cadiz.
FROM (GIBRALTAR) ALGECIRAS TO CADIZ. Steamers of the _Vapores Correos
de Africa_ (agents at Gibraltar and Algeciras, see p. 53; at Tangier,
p. 98; at Cadiz, p. 58) from Algeciras (steamboats from Gibraltar, see
p. 56) every morning except on Mon. & Frid. (from Cadiz daily except
on Sun. & Thurs.) to (3 hrs.) Tangier and (9 hrs.) Cadiz (fares 1st
cl. 30 p., 2nd cl. 23 p.; to Tangier only 15 or 12 p.). From Gibraltar
to Tangier there ply on Tues., Thurs., and Wed. the small
cargo-steamers of the _Bland Line_ (about 2¼ hrs.; 10 or 5 p.).
Steamers of the _Hall Line_ ply weekly and those of the Royal Mail
Steam Packet and the Oldenburg-Portuguese lines mentioned at p. 104,
as well as of the Navigation Mixte, ply occasionally to Cadiz. The
voyage to Cadiz viâ Tangier is picturesque in itself, and it affords
also a most interesting glimpse of Moorish-Mohammedan life at Tangier.
On the other hand the steamboat communication is uncertain in stormy
weather, and to many travellers the voyage, especially in the smaller
vessels, is very trying.
FROM CADIZ TO SEVILLE, 95 M., railway in 3¼–5¼ hrs. (fares 19 p. 80,
14 p. 50, 8 p. 70 c.). Railway Restaurant at Utrera only.
For _Algeciras_ and the voyage through the _Straits_, see pp. 56, 5. As
far as Tarifa the steamers usually skirt the Andalusian coast, and then
strike across the straits to the semicircular _Bay of Tangier_, which is
bounded on the E. by _Cape Malabata_.
=Tangier=, see p. 98.
After leaving the Bay of Tangier we sight _Cape Spartel_ (p. 102) on the
coast of Morocco. In clear weather we command a beautiful retrospect of
the mountainous coast, as far as the Sierra Bullones (p. 103). Opposite,
on the Spanish coast, where the hills gradually recede, at the N.W. end
of the shallow _Bay of Barbate_, rises _Cape Trafalgar_, the
_Promontorium Junonis_ of the Romans and _Taraf al-Ghâr_ (‘cape of
caverns’) of the Moors. The tall lighthouse on the cape is visible at
night from a distance of 22 M. It was here, on 21st Oct. 1805, that
_Nelson_ won the brilliant victory over the combined French and Spanish
fleets under _Villeneuve_ and _Gravina_ that cost him his life and made
Britain mistress of the seas.
Farther along the sandy coast, are the little town of _Conil_ and the
insignificant _Cape Roche_, beyond which we sight _San Fernando_ (p.
59). At length, rising out of the blue sea, appear the lofty quays and
the white houses of _Cadiz_, overtopped by the cathedral, a beautiful
sight in sunny weather. We steer round _Fort San Sebastián_, skirt the
cliffs of _Los Cochinos_ and _Las Puercas_, and enter the broad _Bay of
Cadiz_.
=Cadiz.=—ARRIVAL. Passengers of the Vapores Correos de Africa steamers
are landed in tenders gratis, but heavy luggage is taken ashore by
special boats according to tariff. The _mandadero_, or porter, usually
gets ½–1 p. for taking luggage to the _Aduana_ (custom-house) or to
the hotel.—The RAILWAY STATION (_Estación_) lies at the harbour.
HOTELS (comp. p. 51). _Hôt. de France_, Plaza de Loreto, pens. from
12½ p.; _Hôt. Continental_, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 23; _Hôt. de
Cadiz_, Plaza de la Constitución, pens. from 10 p.
CAFÉS. _Cervecería Inglesa_, Plaza de la Constitución, corner of Calle
del Duque de Tetuán; _Café Imperial_, Calle del Duque de Tetuán 6;
_Cervecería Alemana_, Calle Zorrilla 2.
POST OFFICE (_Correo_), Calle del Sacramento 1.—TELEGRAPH OFFICE,
Alameda de Apodaca 20.
BANKERS. _Ant. Sicre & Co._ (Agents of Crédit Lyonnais), Calle Diego
de Cádiz 5; _Amaro Duarte & Co._, Plaza de Mina 18.—MONEY CHANGERS.
_Casa de Cambio_, Calle de San Francisco 8 and 16.
CONSULS. British Vice-Consul, _R. A. Calvert_, Alameda 20.—U. S.
Consular Agent, _J. Sanderson_, Alameda 12.—LLOYD’S AGENT, _H.
MacPherson_, San Ginés 6.
STEAMBOAT LINES. _Hall Line_, weekly from London to Lisbon, Cadiz,
Gibraltar, and Málaga (comp. pp. 1, 89); the _Compañía Trasatlántica_
(office in the Calle Isabel la Católica) has a Philippine Line
(monthly from Liverpool to Lisbon, etc.; comp. p. 1), a Canary Line,
and several others; _Vapores Correos de Africa_ (agent, Antonio
Millán), comp. p. 57; steamers of the _Austro-American Line_ (office,
Viuda de R. Alcon) ply between Trieste, Almería, Las Palmas, and
Buenos Ayres; _Navegación é Industria_ (Viuda de R. Alcon), for the
Canaries.
_Cadiz_, Span. _Cádiz_, the _Gadîr_ of the Phœnicians and _Gades_ of the
Romans, now a provincial capital of 64,100 inhab., and a fortress, is
most picturesquely situated on a low limestone rock, which was once an
island, on the W. side of the Bay of Cadiz.
From the harbour or from the railway-station we cross the Plaza Isabel
Segunda either to the Calle Alonso el Sábio and the _Cathedral_
(Catedral Nueva), or to the Calle del Sacramento, leading to the _Torre
del Vigía_ or _de Tavira_, 102 ft. high, which is accessible only by
special permission of the Capitania del Puerto (Calle de Aduana). The
top (151 steps; fee 30–50 c.) commands an excellent survey of the town,
surrounded almost entirely by the sea, with its flat-roofed houses and
their _miradores_ or belvederes.
[Illustration: SEVILLA]
The Calle Sagasta, the second side-street off the Calle del Sacramento,
leads to the right into the Calle del Duque de Tetuán, the chief artery
of traffic, which ends in the busy Plaza de la Constitución to the N.W.
A little to the N.E., in the pretty Plaza de Mina, is the _Academia de
Bellas Artes_, the picture-gallery of which contains several admirable
works by Murillo, Zurbarán, and other masters. (Adm. 9–3, in summer 7–4;
Sun. and holidays 10–3.)
On the N. outskirts of the town are the beautiful *Gardens of the
_Alameda de Apodaca_ and the _Parque Genovés_, with their fine palms. On
the S. side of the town, not far from the W. end of the shadeless Paseo
del Sur, rises the former Capuchin convent-church of _Santa Catalina_
(ring on the left in the adjacent court; adm. 20 c.), containing
Murillo’s last work, the *Betrothal of St. Catharine.
The RAILWAY TO SEVILLE runs along the narrow neck of land which connects
Cadiz with the mainland, rounds the Bay of Cadiz, passing between
salt-marshes, where salt is obtained by evaporation, and then strikes
across the delta of the _Guadalete_. The chief stations are the naval
harbour of _San Fernando_, the sea-baths of _Puerto Real_, and the
_Puerto de Santa María_ (‘El Puerto’). Turning to the N.E., the train
now runs through a hilly country to (30½ M.) _Jerez_ (or _Xeres_) _de la
Frontera_, the third-richest town in Spain, with 52,500 inhab.,
far-famed for its ‘sherry’.
Our next run is through moor, alternating with fertile tracts, to (75
M.) =Utrera= (p. 57), junction for La Roda (and Bobadilla, R. 6 a), and
also for the direct line to Cordova. Lastly, we cross the _Guadaira_ to
(95 M.) _Seville_ (Estación de Cádiz, see below).