STEAMBOAT LINES. 1. _Union Castle Line_, steamers weekly from
Southampton to Madeira in 3½ days (on their way to S. and E. Africa);
fares, 1st cl. 15–17 guineas, 2nd 10–12 _gs._ (return in each case
about ⅔ more); also summer tours to Madeira, Las Palmas, or Teneriffe
and back, 18 or 12 _gs._, or, with a week’s board in one of the
islands, 20 or 14 _gs._—2. _Royal Mail Steam Packet Co._, fortnightly
from Southampton (for Brazil) viâ Vigo and Lisbon to Madeira (fares
11_l._ 10_s._ or 8_l._); also fortnightly from London round voyage to
Gibraltar, Tangier, Casablanca, Mazagan, Saffi, and Mogador, returning
viâ Las Palmas, Teneriffe, and Madeira (fare from 22 _gs._; single to
Madeira or Canary Islands from 15 _gs._).—3. _Booth Line_ (for
Brazil), thrice monthly from Liverpool to Madeira; 10_l._, return
16_l._ 10_s._—4. _Yeoward Bros. Line_, weekly from Liverpool to the
Canaries calling on alternate voyages at Madeira; comp. p. 28.—5.
_Federal, Houlder, & Shire Lines_, from Liverpool fortnightly, for
Australia or New Zealand, calling at Madeira, Las Palmas, or
Teneriffe, 10 _gs._—6. _Empreza Nacional de Navegação_, from Lisbon to
Madeira, 1st and 7th of each month; 5_l._ 6_s._ 3_d._ or 3_l._ 12_s._
3_d._, return 9_l._ 0_s._ 8_d._ or 6_l._ 3_s._—7. _Empreza Insulana_,
from Lisbon to Madeira, 20th of each month; 4_l._ 5_s._ or 3_l._ 3_s._
9_d._, return 7_l._ 13_s._ or 5_l._ 14_s._ 9_d._—During the winter
season the Mediterranean steamers of the White Star and Cunard Lines
(p. 118) call once monthly at Madeira, and the Transports Maritimes
(p. 120) occasionally touch at Madeira.
The communication between Madeira and the Canary Islands (R. 4) is
very defective.
The _Archipelago da Madeira_, or Madeira group of islands, consists of
_Madeira_ itself, the largest of the group, 37 by 14 M., _Porto Santo_
(rising 1663 ft. above the sea), 6½ by 3 M., which lies 26½ M. to the
N.E. of Madeira, and the three uninhabited _Desertas_. These are the
islets of _Chão_ (341 ft.), 12½ M. to the S.E. of Madeira, _Deserta
Grande_ (1611 ft.), and _Bugio_ (1349 ft.). Madeira lies in 33° N. lat.,
between the Azores and the Canary Islands (R. 4), 620 M. to the S.W. of
Lisbon, 370 M. to the N.W. of Cape Juby (p. 104), and 275 M. to the N.
of Teneriffe (p. 32). The population of the islands, which are said to
have been uninhabited when discovered by the Portuguese in 1419, is now,
in an area of 314 sq. M., about 150,000. All the islands are of volcanic
origin. In Madeira, above the primæval diabase rock (p. 29), numerous
eruptions since the miocene epoch have formed a number of extinct
craters (lagoas), and as in the Canaries have raised the soil 1150 ft.
above its original level. The main ridge of the island, running from W.
to E., and culminating in the Pico Ruivo (‘red peak’; 6060 ft.),
frequently rises in rocky pinnacles. In examining the geological
structure of the island one is struck with ‘the constant mingling of
solid masses of basalt and lava with strata of loose tufa and ashes, the
whole being interspersed with upright dykes of lava’. The only
tablelands are the _Paul da Serra_, on the W., and the smaller _Santo
Antonio da Serra_, on the E. On the S. and N. slopes of the central
range we observe a series of very curious and grand basins (_curraes_,
sing. _curral_), which are enclosed by high rocks, and are connected
with the sea by deep ravines, testifying to the enormous erosion caused
by water and wind. Narrow strips of coast, strewn with rounded fragments
of basalt, occur only at the mouths of the few streams, and on the
largest of these lies _Funchal_, the capital of the island, on its S.W.
margin.
The mild and wonderfully equable climate of Madeira which since 1850 has
attracted numberless invalids, chiefly English, to its shores, is due
partly to its southern position, tempered by the surrounding ocean, but
mainly to the influence of the Gulf Stream, which sends from the Azores
an offshoot, known as the Canary branch, towards the African coast. On
the sunny S. coast in particular, which is free from fog and is
sheltered from the prevailing N.W. wind by the above-mentioned main
ridge, the mean and almost unvarying temperature of the three winter
months (at Funchal 61° Fahr.; minimum 50°) is considerably higher than
that of the favourite Mediterranean resorts (Nice 48° Fahr., Ajaccio
52°, Algiers 54½°, Málaga 55°), while the summer temperature is lower
(at Funchal in Aug. 70½°, maximum 92°). Dust is almost unknown. The
rainfall (at Funchal 27½ inches; but more in the mountains and on the N.
coast), chiefly in sudden and heavy showers, occurs mostly between
October and February or March. The lowest snow-line is 1970 ft. above
the sea. The relative moisture of the air (67 per cent) at Funchal is
moderate, notwithstanding the proximity of the sea. As in the Canaries,
the mountains are generally cloud-capped about midday, except during the
prevalence of the _Leste_, the wind blowing from the African desert (p.
29), which in Madeira is not specially unpleasant.
Thanks to the genial climate, the abundant winter rains, and the system
of irrigation by means of open channels (_levadas_), whereby water is
brought down, partly through tunnels (_furos_), from its mountain
sources, the fields and gardens of Madeira, ‘Flor do Océano’, show an
almost tropical luxuriance of vegetation. Side by side with pines,
junipers, and deciduous European trees, such as the plane, the chestnut,
the maple, the oak, and the walnut, of which there are many splendid
specimens, are seen countless evergreen trees and shrubs of tropical and
subtropical origin. Among these are palms, araucarias, hickory-trees,
cork-trees, camphor-trees, figs, palm-lilies (yuccas; p. 233),
magnolias, eucalypti, bamboos, papyrus-bushes, tree-ferns, and aloes. A
few isolated dragon-trees (p. 30), the laurel (_vinhatico_), and the
tilwood tree (Oreodaphne fœtens), a kind of bay-tree scarcely occurring
elsewhere, are survivals of the primæval forest destroyed by the
Portuguese discoverers, and now lingering only in the remote ravines and
on the slopes of the N. coast. To that forest the island owes its name
(madeira, ‘wood’; _Isŏla di Legname_ on old Italian charts). The
hill-sides are now largely clothed with tree-like erica and broom
(Genista madeirense, G. virgata, furze, etc.), large bilberry-bushes
(Vaccinium madeirense), stemless ferns, and box, forming a kind of
evergreen underwood. In the gardens of Funchal, enclosed by high walls,
the traveller feasts his eyes, especially in May, on a most exuberant
flora, comprising roses, rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, callas,
bignonias, daturas, fuchsias, hydrangeas, honeysuckle, and a superb red
and purple bougainvillea. The garden-walls, field-roads, and
hill-terraces are everywhere overgrown with vines, but, as in the Canary
Islands, the wine-culture has suffered since 1852 from the grape-disease
(Oïdium Tuckeri) and from the competition of port-wine (p. 4). Among
favourite brands are _Malvasia_ or _Malmsey_, a sweet dessert-wine,
_Boal_, and the astringent _Sercial_. Like the Vega of Málaga (p. 89),
the S. coast of Madeira yields the sugar-cane, which forms the chief
crop of the island, bananas, sweet potatoes (p. 89; Portug. _batata
doce_), cherimolias, coffee-plants, yams (Dioscorea batatas; Portug.
_inhame_), and early vegetables, which last are exported chiefly to
England. Pine-apples thrive in hot-houses only. The natives live mostly
on maize and the fruit of a kind of cactus (Opuntia Tuna) which grows
abundantly on all the rocks.
Madeira also possesses several charming home-industries, producing
embroidery, lace, silk shawls, basket-work, inlaid laurel-wood, and
feather-flowers. Funchal, the only considerable harbour in the island,
is an important coaling and provisioning station for steamers bound for
S. Africa and for America. The heavy customs-dues, which render living
dear, the over-population of the island, and the poverty of the
peasantry cause a considerable emigration, chiefly to S. America.
=Season and Mode of Travel.= Madeira is an admirable health and rest
resort at all seasons, except perhaps for sufferers from neurasthenia
or gastric disorders; but in summer the Monte (p. 24) and Camacha are
preferable to the lower sites. Tourists, on the other hand, will find
July, Aug., and Sept, the best months for their purpose, as the hotels
are cheaper and less crowded, the days are long, and the dry weather
favours excursions into the interior. At Funchal English, French, and
in the larger hotels German are much spoken, but in the interior
Portuguese only. Those unacquainted with the language of the natives
are then dependent on the help of their horse-attendants (_arrieiros_)
or guides (_guias_ or _chapas_), many of whom speak a little English.
At the principal hotels and shops English money is readily received,
but small Portuguese change is required for fees and other minor
outlays. Beggars abound, but their importunities should invariably be
disregarded (comp. also p. xxv).
The streets of Funchal and the hill-roads are paved with round and
slippery cobbles of basalt, against which india-rubber heels afford
protection. The most popular vehicles are the bullock-cars (_carros de
bois_; seated for 4 persons; 400–1000 rs. per hour). For steep
descents the _carro do monte_ or _carrinho_, a kind of running sledge,
is employed (400–1200 rs. per drive). The longer excursions on the
extremely hilly routes so characteristic of Madeira are best taken on
horseback. The horses of Andalusian race are wonderfully wiry and
sure-footed (per hour 500 rs.; _arrieiro_, or attendant, 800–1000 rs.
per day). Ladies and invalids use the hammock or litter (_rede_), a
costly conveyance (2–4 bearers, at 500–600 rs. each per hour).
Finger-posts are entirely lacking.
The few _Vendas_, or country-inns, and the houses of the mountain
engineers (to which travellers are admitted by leave from the office
of the Obras Publicas at Funchal, Rua do Conselheiro Vieira 80) afford
very primitive quarters. Travellers should therefore be provided with
rugs, preserved meats, candles, insect-powder, and good
drinking-water. As in the Alps, strong boots with nails and a _hasta_
or _bordão_, a long stick with an iron spike, are desirable for
mountaineering.
Among BOOKS on Madeira may be mentioned _A. Samler Brown’s_ Guide to
Madeira, the Canary Islands, and the Azores (10th ed., London, 1910;
2_s._ 6_d._); Leaves from a Madeira Garden, by _Chas. Thomas-Stanford_
(London, 1910; 5_s._); _Yate Johnson’s_ Handbook of Madeira (London,
1885); Madeira, by _Ellen M. Taylor_ (2nd ed., London, 1889); Madeira
Islands, by _A. J. D. Biddle_ (2nd ed., London, 1900; 2 vols.);
Madeira, Old and New, by _W. H. Koebel_ (London, 1909; 10_s._ 6_d._);
The Flowers and Gardens of Madeira, by the _Misses Du Cane_ (London,
1909; 7_s._ 6_d._).
* * * * *
The STEAMERS arriving from the N. skirt the W. coast of =Porto Santo=
(p. 17), an island in the form of a tableland, surrounded by five
reef-islets; its inhabitants (about 2300) live mostly in the little town
of _Villa Baleira_. Beyond Porto Santo we obtain a superb view of the
abrupt and furrowed N. coast of Madeira, with the curiously shaped Penha
d’Aguia (p. 27).
Farther on appears the long E. promontory of Madeira, a rocky peninsula
worn by the surf, and connected with the islet of _Ponta de São
Lourenço_ by a grand rocky gateway called the _Ponta do Furado_. We
steer round the _Ilheo de Fora_, an outlying islet with a lighthouse
(_Farol_; 348 ft.), visible from a distance of 28 M., towards which the
steamers from Lisbon, Gibraltar, and Morocco direct their course,
passing to the S. of Porto Santo.
To the S., beyond the low island of _Chão_, rise the _Deserta Grande_
and _Bugio_, the largest of the =Desertas= (p. 17), a group of islands
deserted for lack of water, and now owned by Mr. C. J. Cossart, of
Madeira. British sportsmen desiring to shoot wild goats there or hunt
seals (Monachus albiventer) in the ocean-caves of the Deserta Grande
must obtain permission from the owner.
[Illustration: MONTE FUNCHAL]
The thinly peopled and somewhat bare S.E. coast of Madeira, with the
three little harbours of _Caniçal_, _Machico_, and _Santa Cruz_, shows
clearly the geological formation of the island (comp. pp. 17, 18). Off
_Porto Novo_, in particular, we are struck with the rich colouring of
the _Pico dos Iroses_, where the sombre basaltic and lava rock contrasts
with brick-red strata of ashes and blood-red masses of slag.
Very beautiful is the approach to the *_Bay of Funchal_, which is
bounded on the E. by the bold _Cabo do Garajão_, and on the W. by the
_Ponta da Cruz_, a spur of the _Pico da Ponta da Cruz_ (p. 25). From the
narrow strip of coast the lanes of the old town mount the steep
hill-side between the three river-beds (which are generally dry), while
several groups of houses extend up to the _Pico Fort_ (p. 23) and the
_Levada de Santa Luzia_ (p. 24). Farther up, stretching to the terrace
of the _Monte_ (p. 24), are gardens and vineyards, from which peep many
white _quintas_ or country-houses. On the plateau behind _Forte Ilheo_
(p. 24) are seen the charming gardens, with their tall araucarias,
belonging to the W. suburb of Funchal, the finest residential quarter.
Of the barren mountains in the background the highest peak visible from
the sea is the _Pico de Santo Antonio_ (p. 25), to the N.W. of the town.
=Funchál.=—ARRIVAL. The steamers cast anchor in the open roads, which
are much exposed to the surf when the wind is from the S. or S.W. The
passenger’s luggage, including hand-bags and small packages, is
conveyed from the steamer, in charge of a _guarda fiscal_, direct to
the Alfándega, or custom-house (Pl. 1; C, D, 2). Tobacco, spirits, and
unused articles are specially dutiable. The charge for landing is
about 500 rs. for each person, but should be ascertained beforehand,
with the aid of the hotel-porter if necessary. In stormy weather
passengers are landed at the _Pontinha_ (Pl. B, 3), a small pier
beyond the Forte Ilheo. At the custom-house a declaration has to be
filled up, for which the fee is 50 rs.; the luggage is then usually
retained till midday, and when it is finally cleared the passenger
gives a receipt for it (250–300 rs. more). For the transport of
luggage to the hotel by bullock-car not more than 1000 rs. should be
paid (an agreement should be made beforehand). The Madeira clock is 59
min. behind Greenwich time.
=Hotels= (mostly in the English style; almost all with beautiful
gardens; crowded from Dec. to April). In the W. suburb *REID’S PALACE
HOTEL (Pl. a; A, 3), situated on a basalt rock and commanding fine
views, with sea-baths, etc., pens. 10–25_s._ (or in the dépendance,
VILLA VICTORIA, 8_s._ 6_d._–18_s._); HOT. BELLA VISTA (Pl. b, B 2;
Jones’s), above the Rua da Imperatriz Dona Maria, pens. from 8_s._;
HOT. ROYAL (Pl. c, A 3; Adams’s), Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia, pens.
from 8_s._; PENSION QUISISANA (Reuter’s), Estrada Monumental (Pl. A,
3), 8–12_s._; PENSION ALMEIDA (Pl. f; A, 3), by the Redondo.—In the
old town, REID’S CARMO HOTEL (Pl. d; D, 1), Rua do Carmo, 8_s._
6_d._–18_s._; GR.-HÔT. CENTRAL (Swiss landlady), near the pier (Caes;
Pl. C, 2); HOT. UNIVERSAL (Pl. e; C, 2), Largo da Sé, pens. 1200 rs.,
a Portug. house.—On the Monte (p. 24; comp. inset plan), with splendid
views, MONTE PALACE HOTEL (Pl. g); HOT. BELMONTE (Pl. h); REID’S MOUNT
PARK HOTEL (Pl. i), pens. 7_s._ 6_d._–10_s._; all three near the
terminus. Wine, always an extra, is dear. The Agua Minero-Natural of
Porto Santo is a good table-water (60 rs. per small bottle).
=Apartments= for the winter in numerous quintas or villas, furnished,
but without bed or table linen; from Oct. to June 40_l._ and upwards.
=Restaurants.= _Phenix_, Praça da Rainha (Pl. C, 2); _Golden Gate_,
Entrada da Cidade 7 (Pl. C, 2; with American bar).—ENGLISH TEA ROOMS,
_Café Monaco_.—WINE. _Vaccaria do Souza_, Rua de João Tavira.
=Post & Telegraph Office= (Estação Telegrapho-Postal; Pl. 5, C, 2),
Entrada da Cidade.
=Theatre.= _Theatro de Dona Maria Pia_ (Pl. 16; C, 2), opposite the
Jardim Municipal.—Evening CONCERTS twice a week in the Jardim
Municipal, etc.
=Shops= in the Praça da Constituição, Rua do Aljube, Rua do
Conselheiro Vieira, etc.; bargaining necessary; the prices are higher
when the purchaser is attended by a guide. Pedlars often charge more
than the shops.—EMBROIDERY, etc., at _Ad. v. Breymann’s_, Rua do
Conselheiro Vieira 77.—WINES, etc., sold at _Breymann’s_; also by
_Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see below); _Cossart, Gordon, & Co._, Rua do
Principe 78; _Krohn Bros. & Co._ (see below).—PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIALS,
_Bazar do Povo_, Largo de São Sebastião.
=Banks.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._, Rua da Alfándega 26; _Reid, Castro, &
Co._, Largo de São Sebastião 5; _Banco de Portugal_, Largo da Sé;
_Krohn Bros. & Co._, Rua do Carmo 2; _L. da Rocha Machado_, Rua da
Alfándega 27.
=Physicians.= _Dr. Grabham_, Valle Formoso; _Dr. Scott_, Quinta
Perestrello; _Dr. Machado_, Rua das Mercês 1 (Pl. C, 1); _Dr.
Stevens_, Villa Ramose.—CHEMISTS. _Pharmacia Central_, Rua Bettencourt
2; _Botica dos Dois Amigos_, Largo do Collegio.
=Carriages= and =Horses= (p. 20) at _De Souza’s_, Rua do Bispo.
Bullock-cars (p. 20) in the Entrada da Cidade; saddle-horses (poor) in
the Largo de São Pedro and the Rua de João Tavira.—LITTERS (p. 20) in
the Largo de São Sebastião.
=Motor Cabs= in the Entrada da Cidade (tariff by zones; per drive
90–500 rs.; to Camara de Lobos and back 800 rs.).
=Horse Tramway= (electric line projected) from the Praça da
Constituição to the railway-station of Pombal (starting ¼ hr. before
each train; 50 rs.).—RACK & PINION RAILWAY (Caminho de Ferro do Monte)
from the Estação do Pombal (Pl. C, 1) viâ Levada, Livramento, Sant’
Anna, and Flamengo, to the Monte (p. 24); 7 trains daily in 20 min.;
fare 300, return 400 rs.
=British Consul=, _Capt. J. Boyle_, Reid’s Palace Hotel (p. 21);
vice-consul, _E. Sarsfield_.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see
above).
=Steamboat Agents.= _Blandy Bros. & Co._ (see above) for the Union
Castle, Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., Booth, Hamburg-American, and
Woermann Lines, the Empreza Nacional de Navegação and the Empreza
Insulana de Navegação; _Leça, Gomes, & Co._ for Yeowards Bros. Line;
_Gonçalves & Co._, Rua do Conselheiro Silvestre Ribeira 2, for the
Hamburg & South American Line; _J. de Freitas Martins_, Rua da
Alfándega 52, for the North German Lloyd.—For the coasting service
(Serviço costeiro) and pleasure-trips (Viagens de Recreio), see
newspapers.
=Churches.= _English_ (Pl. 4; B, 1), Rua da Bella Vista (_Rev. C.
Jones Bateman, M. A._), services on Sun. at 8 and 11 a.m., and 5.30
p.m.; _Presbyterian_ (Pl. 15; C, 2), Rua do Conselheiro; _American_
(Pl. 8; C, 2), same street, lower down.
=Club.= _English Rooms_, in the Rua da Praia, overlooking the sea,
with library and billiard-rooms. Adm. on introduction.
ONE DAY. Visit to the Monte (p. 24) in the forenoon; drive to Camara
de Lobos (p. 25) in the afternoon.
_Funchal_ (‘place of fennel’; pop. 25,800), situated in 32° 38′ N. lat.
and 16° 55′ W. long., the capital of Madeira and the seat of the
Portuguese governor and a bishop, is remarkable for the luxuriant
subtropical verdure of its public grounds and private gardens.
On the PRAÇA DA RAINHA (Pl. C, 2), the sea-promenade, where we have a
view of the Desertas (p. 20), rise the _Palacio de São Lourenço_ (Pl.
10; the governor’s residence), several _Club Houses_, and a signalling
tower called the _Pilar de Benger_ (Pl. 11; ‘Benger’s Folly’). The
_Varadoures Gate_ (Pl. 12; D, 2), to the E. of the custom-house, is the
sole survival of a town-wall built by the Spaniards early in the 17th
cent.; adjacent is the _Fruit and Fish Market_ (Mercado; Pl. D, 2).
Opposite the pier (Caes; Pl. C, 2) the Entrada da Cidade, an avenue of
planes, leads to the PRAÇA DA CONSTITUIÇÃO (Pl. 13; C, 2), adorned with
pleasure-grounds, in the centre of the town.
Adjacent on the W. is the *=Jardim Municipal= (public park; Pl. C, 2;
evening concerts twice weekly, otherwise closed in the evening), with
its exuberant wealth of vegetation and flowers. On the S. side is the
_Theatre_ (p. 22).—To the E., in the Largo da Sé, rises the
insignificant CATHEDRAL (_Sé_; Pl. C, 2), with a fine ceiling of Spanish
juniper (Portuguese cedro).
On the E. side of the park runs the Rua de São Francisco, leading to the
long RUA DO CONSELHEIRO VIEIRA (Pl. B, C, 1, 2), or Rua da Carreira the
busiest street, at the N.W. end of which (on the left) is the entrance
to the _Protestant Cemetery_ (Cemiterio Britanico; Pl. 3, B 2).
From the N. side of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we ascend past the
church of _São Pedro_ (Pl. C, 1) and through the steep Calçada de Santa
Clara to the convent-church of _Santa Clara_ (Pl. B, C, 1), where Zarco,
the discoverer of Madeira, is buried.—Farther to the N. is the Calçada
do Pico, whence the Rua do Castello to the left leads to the old Spanish
=Pico Fort= (Forte de São João do Pico; Pl. B, 1), dating from 1632,
famed for its *View.
From the E. end of the Rua do Conselheiro Vieira we may now cross the
Largo do Collegio, with the _Jesuit Church_ of that name (Pl. C, 1), to
the _Camara Municipal_, or town-hall (Pl. 2; C, 1), in the Rua dos
Ferreiros. At the lower end of the same street, not far from the
Cathedral, is the Largo de São Sebastião (Pl. 7; C, 2), where the
Saturday market is held.
Crossing the neighbouring _Ribeira de Santa Luzia_ we soon reach the
_Carmo Church_ (Pl. 6; D, 1).—Along the Ribeira de Santa Luzia ascends
the horse-tramway (p. 22) to the station of the Monte railway, near
which, to the E. (reached by the Rua do Pombal, Pl. C 1), is the
_Museum_, containing valuable natural history collections and a large
relief-map of the island. (Adm. on application; donation to poor-box.)
In the E. suburb of _Santa Maria Maior_, beyond the Ribeira de Santa
Luzia and the _Ribeira de João Gomes_, is the Campo de Dom Carlos
Primeiro (Pl. D, E, 2; drilling-ground), skirting the sea, and partly
planted with trees. The Spanish _Forte de São Thiago_ (Pl. E, 2; now
barracks), built in 1614, was dedicated to St. James the Less (São
Thiago Menor), the patron saint of Funchal. Near it is the church of
_Nossa Senhora do Soccorro_ (Pl. E, 2), the scene of a great procession
on 1st May.
The chief streets of the =W. Suburb=, beyond the _Ribeira de São João_,
flanked with pretty villas, are the RUA DA IMPERATRIZ DONA MARIA (Pl. B,
2) and the RUA DA IMPERATRIZ DONA AMELIA (Pl. A, B, 3), which last ends
at the Redondo (‘round space’) near the _Ribeiro Secco_. On the S. side
of the road are the _Cemetery_ (Cemiterio das Angustias; Pl. B, 2) and
the _Casino Pavão_ (Pl. B, 3), with a beautiful garden extending to the
abrupt coast, frequented by English and American visitors. By the sea
runs the Caminho da Pontinha, leading to the _Pontinha_ (p. 21) and the
harbour-battery of _Forte Ilheo_ (Pl. B, 3; ‘island fort’, Engl. _Loo
Rock_).
* * * * *
EXCURSIONS. The RACK & PINION RAILWAY (p. 22), which at Levada station
crosses the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ and the beautiful hill-promenade of
that name, connects Funchal with the *=Monte= (hotels, see p. 21), a
village on the hill at the back of the town, with numerous villas
nestling amidst beautiful groves of planes and oaks. On a spur of the
hill, close to the terminus of the railway (extension projected), rises
the pilgrimage-church of _Nossa Senhora do Monte_, known by English
visitors as the ‘Mount Church’ (1962 ft.). It is the scene of the
Novena, a great nine-days’ church-festival held in summer. The terrace
of the church (68 steps) commands a glorious *View of Funchal, the coast
as far as the Cabo Girão (p. 25), and the blue ocean enlivened by its
passing ships. A little below the church is a sacred well.
A little to the E. of the Monte is the _Curralinho_ (‘little curral’),
or _Curral dos Romeiros_ (‘pilgrims’ ravine’), overgrown with erica
and vaccinium (p. 19). This miniature curral, a gorge of the _Ribeira
de João Gomes_ (p. 23), gives a very imperfect idea of the grandeur of
the rocky ravines (p. 18) of Madeira.
Those who are pressed for time may descend to the town in 10–12 min. in
a running sledge (p. 20), by the _Caminho do Monte_; but it is
preferable to walk back (in 1½ hr.) by the level *_Caminho das Tilias_
which we reach by turning to the left above the church. After about ¼
M., at the beautiful _Quinta Machado_ (with a view-tower), we descend to
the left by the steep _Caminho dos Saltos_ (if desired, by running
sledge ordered beforehand; 600 rs.). The route leads to the S.W., past
the _Quinta Olavo_, the _Levada de Santa Luzia_ (see above), and the
_Quinta do Deão_, and then descends to the S.E. through the plane-avenue
on the _Ribeira de Santa Luzia_ (p. 23).
A *Side-path leads, above the Quinta Olavo, to the right, across the
river-bed, to the church of _São Roque_ (1139 ft.; view; bullock-car
from Funchal 800 rs.), whence we may descend by the steep Caminho de
São Roque to the _Pico Fort_ and the _Clara Nunnery_ (p. 23).
The Rua da Imperatriz Dona Amelia (p. 24) is continued by the *_Estrada
Monumental_, a road which affords delightful views. It leads from the
_Ponte Monumental_ (Pl. A, 3), a bridge across the Ribeiro Secco, past a
number of sugar-cane plantations and vineyards, and, leaving the shore,
proceeds to the S.W. above the ocean-cave of _Forja_ and the rocky
islets of _Forja_ and _Gorgolho_. It then crosses the S. slope of the
_Pico da Ponta da Cruz_ (863 ft.; *View), an old crater, near the
promontory of that name (p. 21), and skirts the beautiful, but not very
safe bathing-beach of _Praia Formosa_. Farther to the W., in full view
of the bold central range backing the Gran Curral (see below), we cross
the lower bridge of the _Ribeira dos Soccorridos_ and an old lava-stream
to (5½ M.) =Camara de Lobos= (which may be reached by motor-cab, p. 22),
a strikingly picturesque fishing-village (pop. 6200) at the E. base of
the almost perpendicular *_Cabo Girão_, with a small natural harbour
(_Bahia_). The best wine in the island is yielded by the slopes in the
vicinity. Route to the _Gran Curral_ by _Jardim da Serra_, see p. 26.
The EXCURSION TO THE GRAN CURRAL, on horseback or by litter (p. 20),
takes nearly a whole day. We start early and take provisions with us.
From the W. suburb (p. 24) we follow the Rua das Maravilhas and the
Caminho de Santo Antonio (Pl. A, 1, 2), between garden-walls and
vineyards, to the N.W. to the finely situated village of (2 M.) _Santo
Antonio_ (985 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.). We descend thence
to the N.W. into the side-valley of the _Ribeira do Vasco Gil_, with its
pine-woods and rich pastures, and soon obtain a view towards the W.,
extending to the Cabo Girão (see above) and the Pico da Cruz (p. 26). We
next ascend the steep side-valley of the _Ribeira da Lapa_ to the (11
M.) _Serrado Saddle_ (Eira do Serrado; about 2900 ft.), on the N.E.
margin of the _Pico Serrado_ (see below). From the top of the pass we
have a grand view into the great and well-watered basin of the *=Gran
Curral=, or _Curral das Freiras_ (‘nuns’ valley’; once a pasture
belonging to the convent of Santa Clara), enclosed by the lofty rocks of
the central mountains. Far below us, above the rock-strewn bed of the
_Ribeira dos Soccorridos_, we descry the village of _Livramento_ (2018
ft.), with its little church and cypress-shaded churchyard.
Those who do not care to face the rugged descent to Livramento, and the
steep clamber thence to the Bocca dos Namorados (p. 26), should now
ascend the *=Pico Serrado= (3347 ft.; ‘sawn-off peak’), whence we survey
the mountain-range from the _Pico de Santo Antonio_ (5725 ft.) and _Pico
Cidrão_ (5551 ft.) to the _Pico Ruivo_ (p. 27), the _Pico Canario_ (5500
ft.), and the _Pico Grande_ (p. 26).
Longer, but still grander, is the excursion to the W. margin of the Gran
Curral. From the Estrada Monumental (see above) we turn to the N.W. past
the _Quinta Nazareh_, nestling amidst araucarias, to the (2 M.) village
of _São Martinho_ (765 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 800 rs.), situated
among several old craters; we then cross, to the W., the ravine of the
Ribeira dos Soccorridos by the upper bridge and mount in zigzags to the
(7 M.) village of _Estreito_ (1510 ft.). Our route now ascends to the N.
to the (8½ M.) *_Bocca dos Namorados_ (3445 ft.), with its beautiful
chestnut-wood, where we enjoy a superb view of the Gran Curral, and
skirts the W. margin of the _Pico dos Bodes_ (3718 ft.) to the (10 M.)
_Cova da Cevada_, a basin affording a similar view. We next follow the
top of the hill to the N.W., between the Gran Curral and the E.
side-valleys of the _Ribeira Brava_ (see below), to (13 M.) the *_Bocca
dos Corregos_ (4466 ft.), a narrow ridge at the foot of the
perpendicular rocks of the _Pico Grande_ or _Rocha Alta_ (5420 ft.). An
interesting return-route is afforded by descending from the Cova da
Cevada across _Jardim da Serra_ (2523 ft.) and past the _Pico da Cruz_
(3288 ft.) to _Camara de Lobos_ (p. 25).
The EXCURSION TO RABAÇAL can, if time presses, be accomplished in one
day. It is best to go by steamboat to Calheta (3 times weekly, in 1½–2
hrs.; or a small private steamer may be hired of Messrs. Blandy Bros.,
p. 22). The steamer calls first at _Camara de Lobos_ (p. 25), then
skirts the sombre rocky slopes of _Cabo Girão_ and steers past _Fajãa
dos Padres_, a village famed for its wine, to the village of _Ribeira
Brava_ (inn), where we obtain, through the curral of that name, a very
striking glimpse of the _Serra d’Agua_ (4610 ft.) and the Pico Grande
(see above). We next pass the beach of _Lugar de Baixo_, formed by a
landslip in 1803, the beautiful cape, _Ponta do Sol_, and the village
of _Magdalena_, peeping out of vines and bananas amidst the grandest
scenery of the S. coast.
At the village of =Calheta= (bad landing-place; no inn) we may find
litters if desired (each man 800–1000 rs. per day), and we obtain
provisions and torches (fachos, at 50 rs.). We now walk chiefly
through pine-wood viâ _Salão_ to the (1½ hr.) narrow and wet tunnel
(about 650 yds. in length) of the lower _Levada Nova do Rabaçal_. At
the N. end of it we obtain a very striking view of the highest part of
the valley of the _Ribeira da Janella_, richly wooded with evergreen,
oaks and laurels. A path over the rocks (which needs a steady head)
connects this levada (or conduit) with the upper _Levada Velha_,
constructed in 1836–60, and with (9½ M.) the engineers’ houses of
=Rabaçal= (3750 ft.; adm., see p. 20; fee). A little to the N.E., on
the so-called _Balcão_, we enjoy an excellent survey of the
*_Waterfall of the Risco_, which plunges from a rock, 330 ft. high,
into a ravine overgrown with climbing plants and ferns, and a little
lower down provides the water for the old conduit. Crossing the
viaduct of the latter, we skirt the new conduit, and in a few minutes
reach another luxuriantly overgrown ravine, that of the *_Vinte e
Cinco Fontes_, where no fewer than twenty-five waterfalls issue from a
narrow basin.
From Rabaçal we may ascend towards the E. (with a guide) to the (2
hrs.) plateau of _Paul da Serra_ (4656 ft.; ‘mountain swamp’), where
fogs often prevail, and the two _Tanquinhos Houses_ (about 4900 ft.;
used by the engineers; poor quarters). Near them rise the _Pico dos
Tanquinhos_ (5260 ft.) and the *_Pico Ruivo do Paul_ (5388 ft.), both
of which afford grand views of the mountains.
Scarcely less repaying is the two days’ EXCURSION TO SANTA ANNA on the
N. coast, to which a third day may be added for the ascent of the Pico
Ruivo or the Pico Areeiro. We start from the Campo da Barca at Funchal
(Pl. D, 1) and follow the Estrada do Conde Carvalhal (Pl. E, 1), which
ascends to the N.E. in windings to (3¾ M.) _Palheiro do Ferreiro_
(1857 ft.; bullock-car from Funchal 1200 rs.), the finest quinta in
the island, the property of Mr. John Blandy of Funchal (adm. on
application). Farther on we follow the road, uphill and downhill, to
(6 M.) Camacha (2369 ft.; no inn; bullock-car 2500 rs.), a well-to-do
village of basket-makers in a charming wooded region, with many villas
owned by English residents in Funchal. Beyond the _Pico dos Iroses_
(p. 21) the road, now less attractive, crosses the gorges of the
_Ribeira de Porto Novo_ and _Ribeira de Santa Cruz_, and then, turning
to the N., reaches (13 M.) _Santo Antonio da Serra_ (2320 ft.), a poor
village on a grassy tableland. We descend thence to the N.W. into a
sequestered valley carpeted with flowers (Amaryllis Belladonna, etc.),
where a rough path leads to the (15½ M.) _Portella Pass_ (2021 ft.),
which commands a superb *View of the mountains at the head of the
Metade Valley (see below), of the N.E. coast from the Penha d’Aguia
(see below) to the Ponta de São Lourenço (p. 20), and of the island of
Porto Santo (p. 20). We now descend, at first by a zigzag path,
through vineyards and sugar-cane plantations, to (18 M.) _Porto da
Cruz_ (no inn), a picturesque little seaport at the S.E. base of the
abrupt *_Penha d’Aguia_ (1949 ft.; ‘eagle-rock’), the most curiously
shaped hill in the island. We next ascend the saddle to the S. of the
Penha d’Aguia, noteworthy for its marvellously rich vegetation, and
descend the ravine of the _Ribeiro Frio_ (see below) to _Fayal_, a
village not far from the charming _Pescaria_, a little bay to the N.W.
of the Penha d’Aguia. The church-terrace here affords a grand survey
of the valleys of the Ribeiro Frio, the Ribeiro da Metade, and the
Ribeiro Secco (all mentioned below). From Fayal we then cross the
_Cortadas Pass_, or _Bocca do Cortado_ (1985 ft.), to (24 M.) Santa
Anna (1408 ft.; Hot. Figueira, very fair; pop. 3200), a village well
adapted for some stay, the capital of the _Comarca de Santa Anna_, the
most fertile region in the island (sugar-cane, sweet potatoes, yams,
etc.). From Santa Anna a rough mule-track, very indistinct at places,
ascends past the curious basaltic _Homem em Pé_ (‘man on foot’), and
lastly over the saddle by the _Encumeada Alta_ (5948 ft.), to the top
of the _Pico Ruivo_ (6060 ft.; p. 18), which commands a most imposing,
but seldom very clear panorama of the central chain, part of the Gran
Curral (p. 25), and the E. half of the island.
Turning back from Santa Anna, we first wend our way towards the S. to
the _Cova da Roda_, where we again overlook the N.E. coast as far as
the Portella Pass and the Porto da Cruz; we then cross the _Ribeiro
Secco_ and the (29½ M.) _Cruzinhas Ridge_, and descend into the valley
of the *_Ribeiro da Metade_, a gorge vying in grandeur with the Gran
Curral. A zigzag path (‘Quatorze Voltas’) ascends thence to the little
venda (inn) of _Cedro Gordo_, and then crosses the _Serra de Caramuja_
into the (33 M.) valley of the _Ribeiro Frio_, with its splendid
groves of tilwood trees (see p. 19), laurel, and erica. Above the
village of that name rises the _Balcão_, a rock of basalt (near the
not easily accessible _Levada do Furado_), where we have a grand *View
of the Metade Valley with mountain-background. Our route winds up the
rocks of the Feiteiras (‘ferns’) and the _Pouso Saddle_, with its fine
views, to the (34½ M.) _Pouso_ or _Poïzo Refuge_ (4603 ft.), situated
on a dreary plateau. From the Pouso Refuge we may without difficulty
climb the _Pico Areeiro_ (5893 ft.; 1¼–1½ hr.), a famous point of
view, but almost always capped with clouds. The bridle-path ascends
past the _Observatorio_; we may then descend direct to the Vista dos
Navios.
The next part of our route, from the Pouso Refuge to the Monte (p.
24), is uninteresting. From the _Vista dos Navios_ (‘view of ships’),
whence the bay of Funchal is visible, the track descends to the head
of the valley of the _Ribeira de João Gomes_ (p. 23), rounds the E.
slope of the _Pico do Arrebentão_ (3842 ft.), to which point a running
sledge (p. 20) may be ordered from Funchal, and then descends rapidly,
partly in windings, to the (39 M.) _Monte_. Thence to (41½ M.)
_Funchal_, see p. 24.