These are served both as _entremets_ and _dessert_. Many are _entremets_
at a grand dinner, and _dessert_ at a family dinner. As the name
indicates, sugar is one of the most important of the compounds used to
prepare them. It is used in syrup, the making of which is generally more
difficult than the rest of the operation.
The _father of cooks_, the great Careme, divides syrup, or the "cooking
of sugar," as he calls it, and as every practitioner has called it
since, into six degrees; each one corresponding to the six different
states into which the sugar passes, while on the fire, from the time it
begins to boil to that when it begins to turn _caramel_ or burned.
A copper pan is the best and handiest of all; it can be done in another,
but it is more difficult; the sugar turns brown before being thoroughly
cooked or reduced. Always use good loaf sugar. If it be necessary to
clarify it, do it in the following way: for five pounds of sugar, put
the white of an egg in a bowl with half a pint of water, and beat well
with an egg-beater; then turn into it nearly three pints of water, stir,
put away half a pint of it to be used afterward. Then add to the rest
five pounds of sugar, in lumps, set on a rather slow fire, and as soon
as it comes to a boil, mix with it the half pint put away, little by
little, skimming off carefully the while, and when no more scum gathers
on the surface, strain through a towel and commence the working. If the
sugar does not require to be clarified, that is, when it is good white
sugar, set five pounds of it on the fire, in a copper pan, with nearly
two quarts of water, and skim off carefully as soon as the scum gathers.
It may be stirred a little to cause the sugar to melt evenly, but as
soon as it commences to boil, stop stirring, else it will turn white and
stringy. It passes from one state or degree to another in a very short
time, and must be watched closely. It is at the _first_ degree when, by
dipping a piece of wood into it so as to retain a drop of it at the end,
and which you touch with another piece of wood--if, by pulling them
apart, slowly and immediately, instead of separating it at once, it
forms a thread, but that soon breaks. It marks then 34 at the
hydrometer. It is at the _second_ degree when, by repeating the same
process, the kind of thread formed does not break as easily as the
first. It marks then 36. It is at the _third_ degree when, by dipping a
skimmer in it, holding it horizontally and striking it on the pan, then
blowing on it, it forms small bubbles. It marks 39 at the hydrometer. It
is at the _fourth_ degree by trying again with the skimmer after a short
time, and when, instead of forming bubbles, it will fly away like
threads. It marks then 41. The _fifth_ degree is when, by dipping a
piece of wood in the sugar and quickly dipping it also in a bowl of cold
water, shaking it at the same time and then biting it; if it breaks
easily between the teeth, but at the same time is sticky, it has
attained the fifth degree, and marks 44. A few boilings more and it is
at the _sixth_ degree, and by trying in the same way as the preceding
one, it will break under the teeth, but will not stick to them. Above 44
the mark is uncertain, the syrup being too thick; it passes from that
state to that of _caramel_; is colored, and would burn immediately. When
that happens, make burnt sugar with it according to direction.
_Apples au Beurre._--Peel and core the apples with a fruit-corer. Cut
slices of stale bread about one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and
then cut them again of a round shape with a paste-cutter and of the size
of the apples. Spread some butter on each slice and place an apple on
each also. Butter a bakepan, place the apples and bread in, fill the
hole made in the middle of the apple to core it with sugar; place on the
top of the sugar and on each a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut,
and set in a warm, but not quick oven. When about half done, fill the
hole again with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon, place butter on top as
before, and finish the cooking, serve warm. When done, they may be
glazed with apple-jelly and put back in the oven for two minutes; the
dish is more sightly.
_Flambantes._--Lay apples in a saucepan, after being peeled and cored,
add sugar to taste, and water enough just to cover them, also a stick of
cinnamon, and set on a rather slow fire, and leave till done. Take them
from the pan carefully and without breaking them; place them on a tin or
silver dish, forming a kind of pyramid or mound; turn the juice over
them, dust with sugar, pour good rum all over, set it on fire, and serve
immediately and warm. As soon as on fire it is placed on the table, and
the host must baste with the rum so as to keep it burning till all the
alcohol is exhausted, then serve.
The following cut represents either a dish of apples _flambantes_ before
being in flames, or apples with rice.
[Illustration]
_In Fritters._--Peel, core, and cut apples in slices, and then proceed
as directed for fritters. Serve hot.
_With Wine._--Proceed as for apples _flambantes_ in every particular
except that you slice the apples, and instead of pouring rum over, you
pour Madeira wine, and do not set it on fire.
_Meringues._--Peel, quarter, and core half a dozen apples; set them on
the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
occasionally till done, then mix with them two or three tablespoonfuls
of sugar, and when cold put them on a tin or silver dish; arrange them
as a mound on the middle of the dish. Beat three whites of eggs to a
stiff froth, and mix three ounces of pulverized sugar with them; spread
two thirds of that mixture all over and around the apples, smooth it
with a knife; then put the other third in a paper funnel, and by
squeezing it out, decorate the dish according to fancy. You may squeeze
some small heaps of the mixture here and there, over and around the
dish, or squeeze it out all around, giving it a rope-like shape. Dust
with sugar, and put in an oven at 250 degrees for twenty to twenty-five
minutes. Serve warm in the dish in which it has been baked.
_Charlotte._--Peel, quarter, and core six apples; put them in a pan with
two tablespoonfuls of water, cinnamon, and stew till done, when add
three or four ounces of sugar, mix gently so as not to mash the apples,
let cool. Butter a mould well, line it, bottom and sides, with strips of
stale bread, about one quarter of an inch thick, one inch broad, and of
a proper length for the mould. Fill till about half full with some of
the apples, then put a rather thin layer of any kind of sweetmeat on the
apples; finish the filling up with apples; cover with pieces of stale
bread, bake in an oven at about 340 degrees for about twenty minutes,
turn over on a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot.
_With Sweetmeats._--Prepare apples _au beurre_, and when ready to be
served, fill the hole with any kind of sweetmeats or with currant-jelly.
Serve warm.
_In Pine-Apple._--Core the apples with a fruit-corer and then peel them
with the scalloped knife (the peels are used to make syrup or jelly),
place them tastefully on a dish, so that they will form a pyramid,
filling the place where the core was with sugar and a little cinnamon;
then pour a little apple-syrup on the whole, and bake. When done, pour a
little more syrup over, and serve cold or warm.
_Apple-Syrup._--Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, of the
pippin variety; cook them well in about a pint of water, a wine-glass of
brandy, and a pinch of grated cinnamon; when well cooked, put them in a
coarse towel, and press the juice out; put it in a stewpan and set it on
a good fire; add a pound of loaf-sugar, take the foam off with a skimmer
a little before it boils, and boil about five minutes; take from the
fire, let cool, bottle it, corking well. It may be kept for months.
Syrup with pears, pine-apple, etc., is made in the same way.
_Blanc-Mange._--Set on the fire in a block-tin saucepan one quart of
milk with the rind of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of sugar; stir
occasionally to melt the sugar. Then mix about six ounces of
corn-starch with half a pint of milk in a bowl. As soon as the milk
rises, take it from the fire; take off with a skimmer the rind of lemon,
and the skin that has formed on the top of the milk; put the milk back
on the fire; turn the corn-starch into it, stir continually and very
fast till it is very thick. It will take hardly a minute to get thick.
Turn into a mould wetted with cold water and put away to cool. When
perfectly cold, serve with the following sauce: Mix well in a tin
saucepan two ounces of sugar and two yolks of eggs, then add half a pint
of milk and mix again; set on the fire; stir continually, give one boil;
take off; let cool, and serve.
_Blanc-Manger._--Throw in boiling water two ounces of sweet almonds and
the same of bitter ones, or pour boiling water over them, and then skin
them as soon as the skin comes off easily. Pound them well with four
ounces of sugar, lay the whole in a pan with about a pint of water, set
on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, take off and strain. Put
in a tin saucepan about a pint of milk, the strained juice, an ounce of
gelatin, a little rind of lemon, and a little nutmeg, both grated; set
the whole on a moderate fire; simmer just enough to melt the gelatin and
mix it with the rest, and then strain. Wet a mould with cold water, put
the mixture in it, set it on ice, and serve when cool. It may be served
with a sauce like the above.
_Charlotte Russe._--Wipe a mould well, see that it is dry, and then line
the bottom and sides with lady's-fingers, or sponge cake cut in pieces
about the size of a lady's-finger. Commence by lining the bottom,
placing the pieces so as to form a star or rosette, or plain, according
to fancy. Then place some of them upright all around, rather tight, and
even with the top of the mould. Fill with cream, well whipped,
sweetened, and flavored with essence; place the mould on ice, and when
ready to serve, place a dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould,
and serve as it is, or decorated.
_To decorate._--Make a paper funnel, fill it with cream, or icing (sugar
and white of egg worked), then spread some all over the top according to
fancy; it is quickly done and is sightly. The mould may also be filled
with some other cream; as _creme legere_, _creme cuite_, etc.
_Charlotte a la Chantilly._--It is a _Charlotte_ made exactly as the
above one, but filled with _creme a la Chantilly_.
_A la Polonaise._--Make a sponge cake, cut it transversely, dip each
piece in cream (any kind) and then place them back where they were so as
to give the cake its original form as near as possible. When thus
re-formed, cover it with cream, dust with sugar, and decorate with any
kind of sweetmeats. Besides the sweetmeats that are placed here and
there all around, some currant-jelly may also be used to decorate. Place
on ice for some time, and serve.
_Italian._--Peel, quarter, and core about a quart of pears and set them
on a rather slow fire, in a saucepan with half a pint of white wine,
sugar, cinnamon, and lemon-rind. While they are cooking, line a mould as
for _Charlotte Russe_, remove the lemon-rind, and fill the mould with
the pears; place it on ice when cool, turn over on a dish, remove the
mould, decorate with icing, or cover entirely with apple-jelly, and
serve. It is also made with _genoise_ cake instead of sponge cake.
_Francaise._--This is prepared and served like a _Charlotte Russe_, with
the exception that it is filled with _blanc manger_ or _fromage a la
creme_ instead of cream.
_Of Fruit._--This is made of cherries or any kind of berries; cherries
must be stoned carefully. Dip the fruit in wine-jelly as soon as the
latter is cool, but not firm, and line a mould with it. By having the
mould on ice it will be more easily done. Fill the mould with cream, as
for _Charlotte Russe_, place on ice, and serve as soon as congealed.
When the mould is taken from the ice, dip it in warm water a few
seconds, place a dish over it, turn upside down, remove it, and serve
immediately. A _Charlotte_ of fruit is sightly enough without
decorations; it requires some time to make it, but it is worth the
trouble, being a handsome as well as a good dish.
_Another._--Line a mould as for the above. Put one ounce of gelatin in a
bowl with about three tablespoonfuls of water and leave it so for about
half an hour. Mix well together in a saucepan four yolks of eggs and
three ounces of pulverized sugar, add about three tablespoonfuls of
milk, and mix again; set on the fire and stir for about three minutes,
add the gelatin, stir again, give one boil, and put away to cool a
little. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, turn the above
mixture into them, mix gently again; fill the mould with the whole,
place on ice till perfectly cold. When cold, turn upside down on a dish,
remove the mould, decorate as the preceding one, and serve cold.
_Cheese with Cream--(Fromage a la Creme_).--This is made in different
ways; sometimes with soft curds only, or with curds and cream, or with
cream only when very thick. Gelatin dissolved in a little water may also
be added. The curds or cream, or both, are beaten with an egg-beater,
sweetened to taste with sugar, and flavored with essence. To make it
more sightly, when beaten and flavored, it is moulded, placed on ice to
make it firm, and then turned over a dish, the mould removed, and then
served. Any kind of essence may be used to flavor it, such as vanilla,
_fleur d'oranger_, rose-water, violet, etc.; it may also be made with
coffee, tea, chocolate, orange, lemon, etc. Put a few drops of very
strong coffee, or tea, or chocolate at the same time with the sugar and
essence.
With orange or lemon, rub them on a piece of sugar, which you pound and
use to sweeten the cheese. Three or more different ones may be made with
a quart of curds; for instance, flavor one third of it with essence,
another third with coffee or chocolate, and the other with orange. The
colors will be different also. It is an excellent and refreshing
_entremets_ in summer-time. Cheese may also be flavored with pine-apple
cut in very small dice and mixed with it instead of essence.
_Compotes, or Jams.--How to make syrup for Compotes.--Common
Syrup._--Put a pound of loaf-sugar in a crockery stewpan, with a pint of
water, a wine-glass of brandy, and a pinch of well-grated cinnamon; set
it on a slow fire, boil gently for ten minutes, skimming off the foam;
then take from the fire and let cool; bottle it; cork it well and keep
it to use when wanted. It may be kept for months in a cool and dry
place.
Stewed fruit of any kind is called either _compote_ or jam. They are
first peeled and cored and then cooked with sugar, water, and sometimes
cinnamon, or cloves, both in powder and according to taste; also
lemon-juice or rind to taste. Cinnamon agrees well with any kind of
apples, but is not liked by every one in every kind of fruit. The fruits
may be cooked and served whole, in halves, or quarters, or mashed,
according to fancy and taste. The proportions of water and sugar are
also according to taste, or according to the nature or state of the
fruit. Sour apples require more sugar than sweet ones, unripe berries
require more also than ripe ones. The preparation is very simple; not
being prepared to keep, they are served as soon as cold. They may be
served warm, but they are certainly not as good. When there is not syrup
(juice) enough, pour some of the above over the fruit, or some
apple-syrup. The peels and cores of the apples may be used to make
syrup, together with those of pears.
While peeling, coring, or cutting fruit, drop each in cold water, else
it changes color and is unsightly.
When cold, the _compote_ may be put in a mould; turn over a dish, remove
the mould, and serve. Several kinds may be served on the same dish as
well as one; being of different colors, the dish is more sightly, and
quite as good. Loaf-sugar is the best.
Instead of cooking them with water, etc., as directed above, put some
syrup on the fire, and as soon as it boils, drop the prepared fruit in
it, and boil slowly till done.
_Of Apples._--Quarter, peel, core, and put apples in a stewpan with a
gill of water for two quarts, sugar and cinnamon to taste; when done,
dish them, pour the juice in the stewpan all over, and serve cold. If
there is not juice enough, add some apple-syrup.
_Of Apricots or Peaches._--Take two quarts of apricots or peaches and
cut them in two, remove the stones. Throw them in boiling water for two
minutes and take off; drop in cold water and take out immediately, then
skin them. Put about half a pint of water in a crockery pan or in a
well-lined one, and at the first boil put the peaches in, with sugar to
taste; boil gently till done, turn the whole over a dish, and serve
cold. If there is not juice or syrup enough, add a little common syrup.
_Of Blackberries, Currants, Raspberries, Strawberries, and other like
Berries._--Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the second, third, or
fourth state, throw the berries in; boil from one to five minutes,
according to the kind, take from the fire, and serve when cold.
_Of Cherries._--Cut off the stalks of the cherries about half their
length, wash well and drain them. Put them in a stewpan in which there
is just enough syrup at the first degree to cover them; boil slowly till
cooked, and serve.
_Of Oranges._--Peel four oranges, and divide each carpel without
breaking it, and then throw them in syrup of sugar at the fourth or
fifth degree, and boil slowly three or four minutes; take from the fire,
let cool, and serve.
_Of Pears._--Peel the pears, cut the stem half its length, put them in a
stewpan with a little sugar, a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch of
cinnamon, and a little water. Set on a moderate fire, and at the first
boiling add two gills of claret wine. Simmer till cooked, then put the
pears only on a dish; set the stewpan back on the fire, add to the juice
in it about the same quantity of syrup of pears or of syrup of sugar at
the third degree, boil fifteen minutes longer, pour the whole on the
pears, and serve warm or cold.
_Of Lemons._--Peel the lemons, cut them in pieces, remove the seeds, and
proceed as for that of oranges, boiling a little longer.
_Of Pine-Apple._--Peel and cut in slices, put them in a crockery pan,
with a little water and sugar, set on a good fire, and finish and serve
like apricots.
_Of Plums._--Throw the plums in boiling water, and take them out when
half cooked; put them in a crockery stewpan, with a little water and a
little sugar; simmer till cooked, place them on a dish, pour some
common syrup on, and serve when cold.
_Of Quinces._--Quarter, peel, and core the quinces; throw them in
boiling water for five minutes; take out and drain them; put them in a
crockery stewpan, with four ounces of sugar for every pound of quinces,
a few drops of lemon-juice, a little water, and a pinch of grated
cinnamon; set it on the fire, simmer till cooked, place them on a dish,
pour some common syrup on them, and serve cold.
_Of Chestnuts._--Roast about one quart of chestnuts, remove the skin and
pith, lay them in a pan with half a gill of water and four ounces of
sugar; set on a slow fire, toss now and then till the sugar and water
are absorbed or evaporated, turn over a dish, dust with sugar, and serve
warm or cold. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added just before
dusting with sugar.
_Cold Compote._--Wash strawberries and raspberries in cold water, drain
dry, and place them on a dish. Pour boiling common syrup or boiling
currant-jelly all over; let cool, and serve.
_Of Cranberries._--Put one pint of water in a tin saucepan, with six
ounces of loaf-sugar, the rind of half a lemon, and set it on the fire;
boil down until, by dipping a spoon in it, it adheres to it. Then throw
in it about one pint of cranberries; boil about twelve minutes, stirring
now and then, take off, let cool, and serve.
_Another._--After having boiled ten minutes in the same way as above,
and with the same proportions of sugar, cranberries, etc., take from the
fire, mash through a fine colander or sieve, put back on the fire, boil
gently five minutes, let cool, and serve.
_Creams or Cremes au Citron_ (_with Lemon_).--Put one pint of milk in a
tin saucepan with the rind of a lemon; set on the fire, and as soon as
it rises place an iron spoon in it and boil gently five minutes; take
from the fire. Mix well in a bowl four ounces of sugar with four yolks
of eggs, then turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring
and mixing at the same time. Strain the mixture and put it in small
cups; put the cups in a pan of boiling water, boil gently for about ten
minutes, and put in the oven as it is, that is, leaving the cups in the
water. The cups must not be more than half covered with water, else the
water will fly into it. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes to finish
the cooking in the oven, according to the size of the cups. Take them
from the oven when the _creme_ is rather firm, except a little spot in
the middle, and which you ascertain by moving the cups.
Anyone with an ordinary amount of intelligence can make creams as well
as the best cooks, after having tried only two or three times. When you
know how to make one, you can make fifty, just by using different
flavorings.
_Au Cafe (with Coffee_).--The stronger the coffee the better the cream.
The most economical way of making strong coffee is: when you intend to
have cream with coffee for dinner, put the first drops that fall, when
you make the coffee for breakfast, into a glass; put it immediately in
cold water, and as soon as cool cover it with paper, which you tie
around it with twine, and use when you make the cream.
Always use good fresh milk and fresh eggs. As soon as the whites of the
eggs are separated from the yolks, put them, together with the shells,
on ice, and use the next day to clarify your jellies, or to make icing,
etc. A little care is a great saving in the kitchen.
Put one quart of milk in a milk-pan on the fire and take off as soon as
it rises. While the milk is on the fire, mix well together in a bowl
eight yolks of eggs with half a pound of sugar, and coffee to flavor;
then turn the milk into the mixture, little by little, stirring the
while; when the whole is thoroughly mixed, strain it. Put the mixture in
cream-cups, place the cups in a pan of boiling water--enough water to
half cover them; boil slowly for about ten minutes, put the pan and cups
in a moderately-heated oven, and take off when done. It takes from ten
to fifteen minutes to finish the cooking, according to the size of the
cups. It is done when the whole is solidified except a little spot in
the centre, which, by moving the cups, will shake somewhat. Serve cold.
_With Burnt Sugar._--Put two ounces of sugar in a small tin pan, with a
tablespoonful of water, set on the fire, and boil till burnt and of a
light-brown color; take off, and put it in a stewpan with a pint of
milk, four ounces of white sugar, a few drops of rose or orange-flower
water; boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, beat
the yolks of two eggs, and one entire, put in the pan and mix the whole
well, then strain, after which you put the mixture in small cream-pots
for that purpose; place them in a hot but not boiling _bain-marie_, and
as soon as it thickens take them out, dust them with fine white sugar,
let cool; place them on ice for about fifteen minutes, and then it is
ready to be served.
_With Chocolate._--Put in a stewpan and on a moderate fire six ounces of
chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of water, three ounces of white sugar,
stir now and then with a wooden spoon till melted; then pour in it,
little by little, a quart of good fresh milk; boil ten minutes, take
from the fire, and mix in it one egg well beaten with the yolks of five
others; strain through a fine sieve, put in cream-pots or cups, place
them in a hot but not boiling _bain-marie_, take off as soon as it
thickens, dust with fine white sugar, let cool, place on ice for about
fifteen minutes, and use.
_With Orange._--Use orange-rind, and proceed as for lemon-cream in every
other particular.
_With Tea._--Proceed with strong tea as for cream _au cafe_ in every
other particular.
_With Essence._--Make cream _au cafe_, with the exception that, instead
of using coffee to flavor, you use a few drops of vanilla, rose-water,
orange-flower water, violet, cinnamon, etc.--any kind of essence, to
taste.
_With Cinnamon._--Beat well together in a bowl about an ounce of
potato-starch, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, four eggs, four ounces of
sugar, and milk enough to make a rather liquid batter. Turn the mixture
into a mould, which put into a pan of boiling water for fifteen minutes,
then place in the oven till cooked. Serve cold.
_Cuite._--Put two ounces of sugar in a tin pan with two eggs, and mix
well; then add an ounce of flour, little by little, mixing the while;
then, in the same way, add also about a pint of boiled milk; set on the
fire, stir continually till it turns rather thick; take off, flavor with
essence to taste, let cool, and serve or use for filling.
_Frangipane._--Set one pint of milk on the fire. Mix well together in
another pan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of flour, three eggs,
three macaroons crumbled, and as soon as the milk rises, turn the
mixture into it, little by little, stirring and mixing the while; keep
stirring about three minutes; take off, add a few drops of essence to
flavor; turn into a bowl, let cool, and it is ready for use. It may be
made without the macaroons.
_With Almonds._--Make as the above, with the exception that you use
sweet almonds, chopped fine, instead of macaroons.
_With Hazel-nuts._--Proceed as above, using hazel-nuts instead of
almonds.
_Legere._--Mix well together in a tin saucepan five yolks of eggs and
five ounces of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of milk, and mix again.
Set the pan on the fire, and stir continually till it turns rather
thick; take off, and add a few drops of essence; turn into a plate or
dish and let cool. When cold, beat five whites of eggs to a stiff froth;
have somebody to pour in the whites, and, while you are still beating,
about two tablespoonfuls of the cold mixture, and stop beating. Then
turn the rest of the mixture into the whites, and mix the whole together
gently; do not stir too much, but move round and round with a wooden
spoon, and it is done. If it is stirred too much, it may become too
liquid. It makes an excellent and light cream.
_Patissiere._--Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then mix
about one ounce of pulverized sugar with them. Put four yolks of egg in
a bowl with half a gill of milk, and beat well till thoroughly mixed.
Put in a saucepan about two ounces of pulverized sugar, with a
teaspoonful of potato-starch (_fecula_), and two-thirds of a gill of
milk, and mix the whole well; then add the eggs and milk, and beat the
whole well with an egg-beater. Set the pan on a rather slow fire, stir
continually with a wooden spoon till it turns rather thick, and then
turn the four whites and sugar into the pan also, little by little,
stirring the while, and take off when thoroughly mixed. As soon as off
the fire, add essence to flavor, and about one-quarter of an ounce of
gelatine, dissolved in tepid water. Serve, or use to fill when cold.
_Renversee._--Make cream with tea, coffee, or chocolate, and instead of
turning the mixture into cream pots, turn it into a mould lined with
burnt sugar; place the mould in boiling water for about fifteen minutes,
place it in the oven to finish the cooking, turn over a dish, remove the
mould, and serve cold. To line the mould, put two or three
tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in it; set it on a slow fire, and
when the sugar is melted and turning brown, move the mould round and
round to spread the sugar all over; then put the cream in it.
_Sweet Cream._--We mean here the oily substance which forms a scum on
milk; also called _whipped cream_. It is used to make Charlotte Russe,
to fill _meringues_, _choux_, or cream-cakes, etc.
Put a pint of good thick cream in a bowl, and if the weather is warm,
place the bowl on ice for half an hour, then beat the cream with an
egg-beater till stiff and thick. If the cream does not become stiff
after having beaten it fifteen or twenty minutes at the longest, it is
not good, or it is too warm. Good cream may rise and become stiff in
five minutes. When beaten, add to it about four ounces of pulverized
sugar, which you mix gently with it, not stirring too much; add also a
few drops of essence to flavor. If wanted very stiff, add also, after
the sugar, half an ounce of gelatin, melted in a little tepid water.
When beaten and mixed, if not used immediately, it must be put on ice.
_Chantilly._--It is the above cream flavored with _fleur d'orange_
(orange-flower water), or with essence of violet.
_Ice Cream._--Made with cream it is richer than with milk. With eggs it
is better and richer than without, and those that advocate it without
eggs, either have no palate, or do not know how to use them in making
it.
The addition of starch, fecula, arrow-root, flour, meal, etc., spoils
it. The proportions are, to a quart of milk or cream: from four to six
eggs; from eight to fourteen ounces of pulverized sugar; essence, or
chocolate, or fruit-jelly to flavor and color. Our receipt is for six
eggs and fourteen ounces of sugar to a quart of milk.
Set the milk on the fire, and when it comes to a boil, mix well half the
sugar and the essence with six yolks and three whites of eggs; beat the
three other whites separately to a stiff froth. As soon as the milk
rises, take it from the fire, put half the sugar in it and stir to melt
it, then turn the mixture into it also, little by little, beating the
while with an egg-beater; set on the fire, and take off at the first
boiling. While on the fire it must be beaten gently, as, if it is
allowed to boil, the eggs may curdle. As soon as off the fire, mix the
three whites with the rest, beating with an egg-beater, just enough to
mix the whole well; put in cold, salt water to cool, and then freeze.
The smaller the ice is broken and mixed with plenty of rock-salt, the
quicker it freezes.
_Custard._--Put four yolks of eggs in a bowl, then sprinkle flour on
them, little by little, stirring and mixing well the while with a wooden
spoon, and when the mixture is rather thick, stop sprinkling flour, but
sprinkle milk, and mix again in the same way till the mixture is liquid;
add sugar and essence to taste, beat the four whites to a stiff froth,
mix them gently with the rest; butter a mould well, fill it about
two-thirds full with the mixture, and set in a warm but not quick oven.
Serve as soon as out of the oven. If intended to be served cold, omit
the whites of eggs.
_Fritters._--These are made with every kind of fruit, when ripe, peeled
and stoned, or cored when necessary, and according to the kind. The
fruit is used whole, such as strawberries and the like; or in slices,
such as apples, pears, etc.; or in halves, like peaches, plums, etc. It
may be used as soon as prepared; or may be soaked a few hours in a
mixture of sugar, brandy, or rum, and lemon-rind.
Have _batter for fritters_ made in advance, and while you are preparing
the fruit heat the fat (_see_ Frying), dip each fruit or each slice in
batter, drop it in the fat, stir and turn over, and when done, turn into
a colander, dust well with fine white or pulverized sugar, and serve as
warm (or rather as hot) as possible. Even the best fritters served cold
make a very poor dish. Besides fruit, the blossoms of the acacia and
those of the violet make the most delicate fritters.
_With Bread or Pain perdu._--Set one pint of milk on the fire with two
ounces of sugar, and the rind of half a lemon, stir now and then, and
when it rises add a few drops of essence to flavor, then take off and
soak in it slices of bread, cut with a paste-cutter and about half an
inch thick. When well soaked, drain; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
bread-crumbs, and fry and serve as fritters.
_Glazed Fruit--Oranges glazed._--Oranges or any other fruit glazed, when
mounted in a pyramid, is called _croque en bouche_.
Peel the oranges; then divide the carpels and free them from the pith,
and put them away in a warm place for a few hours; they may be left over
night. Cut very fine wire in pieces about eight inches long, bend each
piece at both ends, forming a hook; then run one end or hook through the
carpel of orange, and hang it on a stick placed on something
horizontally. In order not to spill any of the juice, hook the orange
near the edge of that part that was the centre of the orange before
being divided, and as the other end of the wire forms a hook also, it is
easy to hang it.
Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the sixth degree take it from the
fire, dip each carpel of orange into it and hang it again, and so on for
the whole. As soon as dry enough to handle them, which takes hardly half
a minute, pull off the wire and serve when perfectly cold.
To mount them in pyramid is not difficult, but requires time. When they
are cold, prepare again the same syrup of sugar as above, and take it
from the fire. While the sugar is on the fire take a tin mould, a plain
one, larger at the top than at the bottom, and slightly grease it with
sweet-oil. A convenient size for a family is, seven inches high, six
inches broad at the top, and only four inches at the bottom.
Place one carpel of orange, resting on the bottom of the mould, along
the side and the edge upward; as soon as the sugar is out of the fire,
dip one of the two ends of another carpel into it, the edge only, and
immediately place it as the first one, and touching it. The syrup being
hot and liquid, the two pieces will adhere; do the same with others till
you have one row around the bottom. Commence a second row as you did the
first, but this time the first carpel you place must be dipped in sugar,
in order to adhere to the first row, and all the others must also be
dipped so as to adhere not only to the first piece placed, but also to
the first row; and so on for each row till the mould is full, or till
you have as much as you wish. As soon as cold, place a dish on the
mould, turn upside down, and remove the mould. You have then a sightly
dish, but not better than when served only glazed.
_Another way to make it._--Grease with oil your marble for pastry, place
the same mould as above over it but upside down, that is, the broader
end down; grease the outside also with oil. Then place the rows of
carpels of oranges all around outside of it, and in the same way as
described above. The _croque en bouche_ is more easily made this last
way, but it is more difficult to remove the mould. Mould and fruit must
be turned upside down carefully, after which the mould is pulled off.
If the syrup gets cold, it hardens, and cannot be used; in that state,
add a little water and put it back on the fire, but it is difficult to
rewarm it; generally it colors and is unfit. When that happens, make
burnt sugar with it, or a _nougat_. It is better and safer to make a
little of it, just what can be used before it gets cold, and if not
enough, make some a second and even a third time. While the sugar is
hot, and while you are dipping the fruit in it, be careful not to touch
it, as it burns badly. In glazing the fruit first, some syrup falls in
taking it from the pan to the stick; place your marble board, greased
with oil, under, so that you can pick it without any trouble and use it.
_Chestnuts, glazed._--Roast the chestnuts, skin them well, then hook,
dip, and hook again on the stick as directed for pieces of oranges. A
pyramid also may be made, and a sightly one it makes.
_Cherries._--They must be picked with their stems, and by which you tie
two together with a piece of twine. See that they are clean and dry, and
have two sticks instead of one, placed parallel, about two inches apart,
in order to prevent the two cherries from touching, when hung, as they
would immediately adhere. Proceed for the rest as described for oranges.
_Pears._--Small, ripe pears are excellent glazed; peel them, but leave
the stem on, and then proceed as with cherries in every particular.
_Strawberries or any other Berries._--The berries must be picked with
the stem. Wash them in cold water, drain, dry, or wipe carefully, and
then proceed as for cherries in every particular. A more delicate dish
than strawberries or raspberries glazed cannot be made.
_Grapes._--When clean, proceed as described for cherries.
_Plums._--Take plums, well ripened and with the stems on, and proceed as
with cherries.
_Prunes._--Soak the prunes in tepid water, and when dry, hook them like
carpels of orange, and finish in the same manner.
_Currants._--When clean and dry, tie two clusters together, and proceed
as for cherries.
_Pine-Apple._--Cut pine-apple in dice, and proceed as described for
carpels of orange.
_Iced Fruit._--As a general rule, the more watery the fruit the more
reduced the syrup of sugar must be. If it is not reduced enough, small
pieces of ice, formed by the water of the fruit, will be found while
eating it. The fruit must be ripe. It is done also with preserved fruit.
It is impossible to tell exactly the degree or state of the fruit and
syrup without a hydrometer.
The following _preparation_ may be added to the fruit, or to _punch_, as
soon as it begins to freeze; it is not indispensable, but gives it more
body: Put one pound of loaf-sugar in a copper pan with two gills of cold
water, set on the fire, stir now and then till it comes to a boil, then
boil till it is at the fifth state or 43 deg., and take off. Beat four
whites of eggs to a stiff froth, flavor with essence of vanilla, and
turn the sugar into the eggs, little by little, but do not stop beating
until the whole is in. Then move the mixture gently round with a spoon
for about a minute, and it is ready for use.
_With Peaches, Apricots, or Plums._--The following proportions are for
one pint of juice. Peel and stone the fruit carefully, then mash it
through a sieve into a bowl. Make one pint of syrup of sugar at 32 deg., and
when cold turn it into the bowl and mix it with the pint of juice, add
the juice of a rather large orange and a little of the rind grated, mix
again, freeze as directed for ice-cream, and serve.
_With Currants, Lemons, Oranges, Pears, Pine-Apples, Strawberries, and
other Berries._--Proceed as for peaches in every particular, except that
you press the juice of the currants and berries through a towel instead
of mashing them through a sieve, and that you use the syrup at 44 deg. for
them also; the others are peeled and cored or seeded.
_With Melons._--Proceed as for peaches, except that you add to the
mixture a little _kirschwasser_.
_With Preserved Fruit._--Use the syrup at 30 deg., and proceed as for
peaches in every other particular.
_Iced Coffee._--Make strong coffee, and when cold mix it with the same
volume of thick cream, sweeten to taste, freeze, and serve.
_Iced Chocolate._--Break in pieces about four ounces of chocolate, and
set it on a slow fire in a tin pan, with two tablespoonfuls of water;
when melted take it from the fire, add a gill of warm water, and work it
with a spoon for five minutes; then mix it with the same volume of syrup
of sugar at 30 deg., freeze and serve. The syrup is used when cold.
_Iced Tea_ is made as iced coffee.
_Sweet Jellies--Wine Jelly._--Soak two ounces of gelatin in a gill of
cold water for about half an hour. Put in a block-tin saucepan three
eggs and shells, three ounces of sugar, one quart of cold water; beat a
little with an egg-beater to break the eggs, and mix the whole together;
add also a few drops of burnt sugar, same of essence, rum, according to
taste, from half a gill to half a pint, then the gelatin and water in
which it is; set on a good fire, stirring slowly with an egg-beater, and
stopping once in a while to see if it comes to a boil, when, stop
stirring, keep boiling very slowly for two or three minutes, and turn
into the jelly-bag, which you do as soon as clear; the process requires
from two to three minutes. While it is boiling take a few drops with a
spoon, and you will easily see when it is clear. Pass it through the bag
three or four times, turn into a mould, put on ice, and when firm, put a
dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould, and serve.
_Jelly Macedoine._--Make the same jelly as above, and pass it through
the bag also; put some in a mould, say a thickness of half an inch, have
the mould on ice; then, as soon as it is firm, place some fruit on that
layer and according to fancy; and, with a tin ladle, pour more jelly
into the mould, but carefully and slowly, in order not to upset the
fruit you have in; continue pouring till you have a thickness of about
half an inch on the fruit. Repeat this as many times as you please, and
till the mould is full; vary the fruit at each layer, and especially the
color of the different kinds. The color of the jelly may also be changed
at every layer, by mixing in it more burnt sugar, some carmine or
cochineal, some green spinach, a little in one layer and more in
another. Any kind of ripe fruit can be used: strawberries, raspberries,
stoned cherries, grapes, apples cut in fancy shapes; also peaches,
bananas, etc.
_Cold Wine-Jelly._--Put two ounces of gelatin in a bowl with a piece of
cinnamon and a pint of cold water, and let stand about an hour. Then
pour over about a quart of boiling water, and let stand about four
minutes. After that, add two pounds of sugar, the juice of three lemons,
a pint of sherry wine, and half a gill of brandy. Stir to dissolve the
sugar, and turn the mixture into a mould through a strainer; place on
ice, and serve as the above jellies.
_Souffles._--Put in a bowl four tablespoonfuls of potato-starch with
three yolks of eggs, one ounce of butter, and a few drops of essence to
flavor. Turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, about three
gills of milk; set on the fire, stir continually, and take off at the
first boiling. Stir continually but slowly. As soon as cold, beat three
yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of cold water, and mix them with the
rest. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them also
gently and slowly. Butter a mould well, fill it about two-thirds full,
and bake in a warm but not quick oven (about 300 deg. Fahr.). Besides being
flavored with essence, _souffles_ may be flavored with coffee, lemon,
orange, etc., according to taste. Generally, _souffles_ are served under
the name of the object used to flavor them, such as _souffle au cafe_
(_souffle_ flavored with strong coffee), etc. They are all made in the
same way as the above one, with the exception that they are flavored
with strong coffee as above, and used instead of essence, or strong tea,
chocolate, etc., or with a little jelly of different fruit, or with
roasted chestnuts well pounded, instead of potato-starch, etc.
A hundred different kinds of _souffles_ can be easily made by following
the above directions.
_Apples, fried._--Peel and cut in small dice, dropping them in cold
water till the whole is ready. Then fry with a little butter till about
half cooked, when add a little water and sugar to taste; finish the
cooking, take from the fire; beat a yolk of egg with a teaspoonful of
cold water and mix it with the apples; serve warm. Proceed in the same
way with _pears_.
_Peaches baked._--Cut peaches in two, remove the stone, and with a
paste-cutter cut some slices of bread, and place them in a buttered
bakepan with half of a peach on each, the skin downward; dust well with
sugar, put a piece of butter the size of a kidney-bean on each, place in
a rather slow oven; dish when cooked, turn the juice over, if any; if
none, a little syrup of pears, and serve warm.
Do the same with _apricots_, _plums_, and slices of _pine-apples_. The
slices of pine-apples may be soaked in _kirschwasser_ for twenty-four
hours before using them.
_Prunes, stewed._--Wash them in cold water if necessary. Soak them in
tepid water for about two hours, and set the whole on the fire; boil
gently till half done, when add sugar to taste, a gill of claret wine to
half a pound of prunes, and serve either warm or cold when done. If the
water boils away too much, add more.
_Currants, Blackberries, or other Fruit, for Dessert._--Beat well the
white of an egg with a little water; dip the fruit in, and roll it
immediately in some fine-crushed sugar; place it on a dish, and leave it
thus five or six hours, and serve.
A more sightly and exquisite plate of dessert than a plate of currants
dressed thus, cannot be had.
Besides all our receipts, any kind of fruit may be served for dessert,
according to the season; also any kind of cheese; also fruits preserved
in liquor.
_Berries with Milk or Cream._--Nearly every kind of berries, when clean,
may be served with milk or cream, and sugar to taste.
_With Liquor._--They may also be served with brandy, rum,
_kirschwasser_, whiskey, etc., and sugar.
_Marmalades, or Preserves of Fruits--Of Apricots or Peaches._--Boil two
pounds of peaches for a minute, take off and drop them immediately in
cold water. Drain and skin immediately, cut in two and remove the stone.
Crack two-thirds of the stones and throw the kernels in boiling water;
leave them in till the skin comes off easily; skin them well and cut
them in small pieces, lengthwise. Lay the peaches in a pan, with about a
pound and a half of sugar, set on the fire, boil about twenty minutes,
stirring the while with a wooden spoon; a few minutes before taking from
the fire, put also the kernels in the pan; then turn in pots or jars as
soon as off the fire. Cover well when cold, and keep in a dry and cool
(but not cold) closet.
_Of Plums._--Proceed as for the above.
_Of Pears and Quinces._--Quarter, peel, and core the fruit, put it in a
pan, and proceed for the rest as directed for peaches, except that you
use sweet almonds instead of kernels.
_Of Blackberries, Cherries, Currants, Raspberries, and other like
Berries._--Wash the fruit in cold water, drain, dry, and mash it through
a sieve placed over a saucepan; when the juice and pulp are in the pan
add the same weight of loaf-sugar as that of juice, which is easily
ascertained by weighing the pan first; set on the fire, skim it
carefully; it takes about half an hour to cook; then put in pots and let
cool; cut a piece of white paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip
it in brandy, put it over the fruit, cover the pots, and place them in a
dry and cool closet.
_Of Grapes._--Select well-ripened grapes and pick the berries. Put them
in a thick towel, and press the juice out, which you put in a copper or
brass saucepan, set on a good fire, and boil till about half reduced.
Skim off the scum, and stir now and then while it is on the fire. Then
add about half a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of juice, boil again
fifteen or twenty minutes, take off, put in pots or jars, cover or cork
well when cold, and put away in a dark and cool closet.
_Candied or Comfited Fruit._--The best state of the fruit to be candied
is just when commencing to ripen or a little before. It must be picked
in dry weather, and be sound; the least stain is enough to spoil it soon
after it is preserved.
_Peaches._--Make a cut on the side of the fruit and remove the stone
without bruising it; then skin it carefully and drop it in a pan of cold
water. When they are all in, set on the fire, boil gently till they
float. There must be much more water than is necessary to cover them, in
order to see easily when they come to the surface. Then take them off
carefully, with a skimmer, and drop them in cold water and drain. When
drained, put them in a pan, cover them with syrup of sugar after it is
skimmed and clarified. (_See_ Syrup of Sugar.) The syrup must be boiling
when turned over the fruit. Set on the fire, give one boil only, and
turn the whole into a bowl, which you cover with paper, and leave thus
twelve or fifteen hours. After that time, drain, put the syrup on the
fire, the peaches in the bowl, and at the first boiling of the syrup,
turn it over the fruit, cover the bowl with paper, and leave about as
long, that is, twelve or fifteen hours.
Repeat the same process three times more, in all five times. The last
time the syrup must be at the first state as described for syrup of
sugar. Inexperienced persons will do well to try at first with a few
fruits, and go through the whole process, after which it will be
comparatively easy.
Every one is awkward in doing a thing for the first time, and does not
do it well, however easy or simple it may be. That is the reason why
societies of farmers make better preserves than other people; they
teach one another; and besides, no one is allowed to touch the fruit
before having seen it done several times.
Candied fruit, as well as preserves, get spoiled by fermentation, if not
cooked enough; by moisture, if kept in a damp place; or by heat, if kept
in a warm place.
When the last process has been gone through, leave the fruit in the bowl
about twenty-four hours; then put it in jars, cover air-tight, and put
away in a dry and cool closet. It may also be drained, dried on a riddle
in a warm place, and kept in boxes. A wooden riddle or screen is better
than a metal one. They may also be put in decanters, covered with brandy
or other liquor, and corked well. When preserved in brandy, it is not
necessary to remove the stone; they may be covered with half syrup and
half brandy.
_Plums._--Pick them just before commencing to ripen, and cut the stem
half way. When clean, but neither stoned nor skinned, prick them around
the stem with a fork, drop them in cold water, set on the fire, add a
gill of vinegar to three quarts of water, and take from the fire as soon
as they float. Drain, put them in a bowl, pour boiling syrup of sugar
over them, and proceed as directed for peaches, that is, cover and pour
the syrup on them five times in all. They are kept like peaches also,
either in jars, dried, or in brandy.
_Pears._--After being peeled and the stem cut off half way, they may be
preserved whole or in quarters. In peeling them, they must be dropped in
cold water with a little lemon-juice to keep them white. They are picked
just before commencing to ripen. When ready, put cold water and the
juice of a lemon to every two quarts in a deep pan, and drop the pears
in, set on the fire and boil gently till well done; take off, drain and
drop in cold water, which you change two or three times and without
stopping; then drain again, place them in a large bowl, and then proceed
as for peaches. They are kept like peaches also.
_Apples._--Proceed as for pears, except that apples are cooked much
quicker.
_Pine-Apples._--Peel, slice, and drop the fruit in cold water; add a
little sugar, set on the fire and boil gently till done, when drain and
drop in cold water and drain again. Put them in a bowl, and proceed as
for peaches for the rest, with the exception that they are kept in jars
only, and not dried or put in brandy.
_Chestnuts._--Skin the chestnuts and put them in cold water on the fire,
and take off when tender; then remove the under skin or white envelope
or pith. Place them in a bowl, and proceed as for peaches for the rest.
_Oranges._--Drop oranges in boiling water and take off when the rind is
tender, and when a darning-needle can be run through it easily. Drain
and drop them in cold water. After two or three hours drain, cut in
slices, and put them in a bowl; then proceed as for peaches, except that
they are kept in jars only.
_Quinces._--Peel, quarter, and core quinces just before they commence
ripening, drop in boiling water; drain them when done, and drop them
immediately in cold water. As soon as cold, take them off, drain and put
them in a bowl. For the rest, proceed as for peaches, with the exception
that they are only kept in jars, but neither dried nor put in brandy.
To Preserve in Brandy.--Besides the dried fruits above described,
several may be preserved in brandy, without being cooked and soaked in
syrup of sugar.
_Cherries._--Pick them when fully ripe, see that they are clean, and put
them in decanters with cloves, pieces of cinnamon, and entirely covered
with brandy; cover well, but do not cork, and leave thus two weeks, at
the end of which, place a colander over a vessel and empty the decanters
into it; pass the liquor through a jelly-bag, mix it with some syrup of
sugar at the second degree, turn over the fruit which you cover with it,
and cork the decanters well when perfectly cold. Keep in a dark, cool,
and dry place.
Do the same with strawberries and other like fruit.
_Fruit Jellies--With Apples or Quinces._--Peel, core, and cut in small
pieces two quarts of good apples or quinces, lay them in a stewpan with
a clove well pounded, and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water,
set on a moderate fire, and boil slowly till well cooked. Turn into a
jelly-bag, or a thick towel under which you place a vessel to receive
the juice, and when it is all out, put it in a stewpan with
three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of juice; boil to a
jelly.
As soon as done put it in pots or jars, let cool, cut a piece of white
paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip it in brandy, put it over
the jelly, cover the pot well, and place in a dry, cool closet, but not
too cold. What remains in the bag may be used to make a _compote_. Watch
the process carefully, skimmer in hand, to skim off the scum, and stir
now and then, lest it should burn.
_With Apricots, Peaches, Plums, etc._--After having taken the stones
out, cut them in four pieces, and proceed as for apple-jelly above in
every other particular.
_With Blackberries, Currants, Grapes, Raspberries, or other like
Berries._--Put the well-ripened berries in a coarse towel and squeeze
all the juice out of them, which you put into a stewpan with as many
pounds of loaf-sugar as there are of juice, and finish as directed for
apple-jelly. A little rum or essence of rose, or any other, according to
taste, may be added just before taking from the fire.
_Punch._--Put a saltspoonful of black tea in a crockery pot, with one
clove, a little cinnamon, and the rind of a lemon cut in pieces; pour on
the whole half a pint of boiling water; let it remain thus five minutes,
and strain. Put a bottle of rum or brandy in a crockery vessel, with
twelve ounces of loaf-sugar, set the rum or brandy on fire, and let burn
till it stops. Then mix tea and rum together, and it is ready for use.
It is drunk cold or warm, according to taste. When wanted warm, if made
previously, set it on a moderate fire, in a tin or crockery kettle.
It keeps very well if carefully bottled and corked when cold.
Another way to make it is to mix the rum or brandy with the tea without
burning it. It is warmed, used, and kept like the above. The quantity of
water may be reduced or augmented, according to taste, and so also the
sugar.
_Another._--Grate the rind of a lemon and of two oranges on a piece of
sugar, the yellow part only, and put it in a bowl with cold water to
dissolve it; then add two gills of pine-apple syrup, essence of vanilla,
a pint of claret wine, a pint of Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine, a
pint of Champagne, and a gill of brandy; sweeten to taste; strain, put
on ice for some time, and serve.
_Another._--Put a pound of sugar in a bowl with a gill of water to
dissolve it; then add the juice of three oranges, a little rind grated,
a bottle of Champagne and one of Catawba or Sauterne wine; strain, place
on ice for some time, and serve cold.
_Roman Punch._--Make iced lemon with one quart of juice, same of syrup
as directed, then mix with it the juice of four oranges, some lemon and
orange rind grated, and about three gills of rum (or according to
taste); also, if liked, the preparation used for iced fruit. Then put
the mixture in the freezer, stir while freezing, and serve. It must not
be frozen hard, as it is better when served rather liquid and frothy. It
may be made with any other liquor, if preferred.
Punch is served either after the _entrees_ or after the _releves_ of
fish, according to taste.