PUREES.

_Purees_ are made with vegetables, but when the flesh or poultry or

other birds is mashed through a sieve after being cooked, it is

sometimes called a _puree_ also.

The bones of a ham, after the flesh is disposed of, is the most

excellent thing you can put with the vegetables to boil them in order to

make _purees_.

One-third of the bones of a middling-sized ham is enough for about a

quart of vegetables.

When you have no ham bones, use four ounces of good salt pork, as lean

as possible; but never use smoked pork, it gives a disagreeable taste to

the puree.

_Of Dry Beans, white or colored, Kidney, Lima, or any other kind._--Dry

beans must be soaked in cold water, or even in lukewarm water, when in a

hurry. According to the nature of the beans, they must be soaked for

from six to twenty-four hours.

Soak a quart of beans as directed above; drain and put them in a

saucepan with one-third of the bones of a ham, or about four ounces of

salt pork; cover with cold water, season with a bay-leaf, a sprig of

thyme, two of parsley, two middling-sized onions, with two cloves stuck

in them, and a carrot cut in pieces; when the whole is well cooked,

throw away thyme, bay-leaf, onions, and cloves; mash well through a

colander all the rest except the bacon.

While mashing them through the colander, wet them with some of the water

in which they have boiled, else it would be difficult and long.

When mashed, put them in a saucepan with a little broth or water, salt,

and two ounces of butter; stir now and then till the butter is melted

and thoroughly mixed with the rest, and it is ready for use. The

quantity of broth or water is according to how thick or thin they are

wanted. The salt pork is good to eat.

_Of Lentils._--It is made in the same way as that of beans, except that

they do not require to be soaked more than five or six hours in cold

water.

_Of Peas (dry or split)._--Proceed as for lentils in every particular.

_Of Chestnuts._--Remove the skin of a quart of chestnuts and drop them

in boiling water, with a little salt. As soon as the under skin comes

off easily, take them from the fire, drain, drop them in cold water, and

then remove the under or white skin; put them in a saucepan with about

one quart of broth, set on the fire and boil gently till well done, and

mash through a colander.

Then put the chestnuts, and what is left of the broth, in a saucepan,

set on the fire, stir, add a pinch of sugar and an ounce of butter; give

one boil, and it is made.

_Of Green Peas._--Wash a quart of green peas in cold water, and drain;

put two quarts of cold water on the fire in a saucepan, with a little

salt, and at the first boil throw the peas in, season with three or four

sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two onions, and two cloves, a carrot in

slices, salt, and pepper; boil till tender. It may take only two

minutes, or it may require half an hour, according to how tender the

peas are.

Mash through a colander, and finish like puree of beans, using either

broth or water. With broth it is richer and better.

_Of Lima Beans._--Proceed for green Limas as for green peas.

_Of Sweet Corn._--It is made like that of green peas.

_Of Asparagus._--Cut the eatable part of the asparagus in pieces, and

proceed as for _puree_ of green peas.

_Of Potatoes._--Steam a quart of potatoes, and then mash them well; put

them in a saucepan with half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter, and

salt; set on the fire, stir now and then, take off and use. It takes

about fifteen minutes after being set back on the fire.

_Another way._--Proceed as above, using broth or water instead of milk.

_Of Jerusalem Artichokes._--Prepared as potatoes.

_Of Carrots._--Clean well, and cut in slices, a dozen middling-sized

carrots; put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and set on

the fire; when about half fried, cover with broth or water; season with

half a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a small onion,

and a clove stuck in it; when the whole is well cooked, throw away

onion, clove, bay-leaf, and thyme, mash the rest through a colander;

then put back on the fire, with a little butter; simmer for about two

hours, stirring occasionally, and it is made.

In case it should turn too thick, add broth or water.

The longer they are simmered, the better the taste.

_Of Turnips._--Proceed as with carrots in every particular.

_Of Celery._--It is always made with turnip-rooted celery. Clean the

celery well, wash and cut it in pieces, and prepare as _puree of

carrots_, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.

_Of Cauliflowers._--Separate the branches, and throw them in boiling

water and salt; boil two minutes and drain. Put them on the fire with

broth or water, enough just to cover them, two or three stalks of

parsley, and salt to season.

Boil gently till tender; remove the parsley; mash through a colander;

put back on the fire with a little butter and white pepper, simmer about

ten minutes, stirring now and then the while, and it is ready for use.

Instead of butter, some cream may be added.

_Of Pumpkin._--Made exactly the same as that of cauliflowers, after the

pumpkin is peeled and cut in pieces.

_Of Squash._--Same as pumpkin.

_Of Spinach._--Clean the spinach, and cut off the stem; the leaf only is

good; wash and drain it; put cold water and a little salt on the fire,

and throw the spinach in at the first boil. When tender, drain and drop

immediately in cold water; drain again, and then chop it very fine.

After being chopped, it may be mashed through a sieve, to have it finer;

put it back on the fire without any water at all, and when it gets

rather dry, add a little flour; stir and mix; add again a little gravy

or good broth; stir, then salt to taste, and it is ready for use.

If the spinach is young and tender, it takes only two or three minutes

boiling before chopping it.

From the time it is put back on the fire, it takes about five or six

minutes to finish it.

_Of Sorrel._--Proceed as with spinach in every particular.

_Of Mushrooms._--Clean well and cut in pieces a quart of fresh

mushrooms; soak them in cold water, in which you have put the juice of a

lemon; drain, and chop them fine. Put a stewpan on the fire, with a

piece of butter the size of a duck's egg; when melted, put your

mushrooms in; when half fried, add the juice of a lemon, finish frying,

then cover with some roux-sauce; let simmer till it becomes rather

thick, strain and use.

_Of Onions._--Peel, quarter, and blanch for eight minutes, a dozen

onions. Drain and put them in a saucepan with four or six ounces of

butter, according to the size of the onions; set on a slow fire, stir

now and then till well done; then season with salt, a little flour, stir

for two minutes to cook the flour, and mix it thoroughly with the rest;

take from the fire; add cream, little by little, stirring the while. It

does not require much cream to make the _puree_ of a proper thickness.

Mash through a sieve or fine colander, add a pinch of sugar, and it is

ready for use.

It makes an excellent _puree_, and is good served with nearly every kind

of meat.

Made with white onions, and properly mashed through a sieve, it looks

like cream, and is almost as white as snow.

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