CHAPTER VII

IN THE AISNE

ST.-GOBAIN

The short railway journey from Amiens on the Somme to La Fère on the

Oise takes you through a country which, on a fine summer's morning,

reminds one of the old Kentuckian description of an agricultural

paradise--'tickle it with a hoe, and it laughs with a harvest.' As, in

one direction, Picardy extends into the modern Department of the

Pas-de-Calais, so in other directions it includes no inconsiderable part

of the modern Departments of the Oise and of the Aisne. In this way it

touches the central province of the Ile-de-France, the main body of

which is now divided into the three Departments of the Seine, the

Seine-et-Oise, and the Seine-et-Marne. From Amiens to La Fère,

therefore, the pulse of the French capital may be said to throb visibly

about you in the rural beauty of a region which owes its value and its

fertility less to the natural qualities of the soil than to the

quickening influences of the great metropolis. For centuries Paris lived

mainly on the Ile-de-France, and the Ile-de-France on Paris. Since the

steam-engine and the railway have opened, both to the province and to

the capital, the markets of all France and of all Europe, both the

province and the capital are infinitely more prosperous than in the old

days when the lack of communications and the lawlessness of men made

them dependent one upon the other. The steppes of Russia and the

prairies of America now compete with the grain-fields of the

Ile-de-France; the timber of the Baltic with its timber; and I have no

doubt that, during his six years in the prison of Ham, Louis Napoleon

drank there better Chambertin than ever found its way to the table of

the Grand Monarque at Versailles, after a certain enterprising peasant

walked all the way from his native province to the capital, beside his

oxcart laden with casks, to prove to the king the merits of the true

Burgundian vintage.

Certainly it would never occur to anybody now in Soissons or Laon to

make the journey to Paris, as people did a hundred and fifty years ago,

to drink the water of the Seine, as being 'the best in the world, and a

specific against burning fevers and obstructive ailments.'

But the vast commons which lay waste throughout the Ile-de-France a

hundred years ago are now green with crops; meadows have replaced the

marshes; orchards and gardens on every side show what the Campagna of

Rome may become, at no distant day, if Italy can make her peace with the

Church, and the Italian capital remain, on terms of justice and reason,

the capital of the Catholic world.

Before the Revolution the Generality of Paris contained 150,000 arpents

of waste commons; the Generality of Soissons 120,000 arpents. In 1778 a

writer deplores the spectacle, 'within thirteen leagues of the capital,

of vast marshes left to be inundated because they are common lands,

producing not a single bundle of hay in a year, and affording scanty

pasture to a few miserable cattle.' In a single hamlet this writer found

35 poor families feeding 22 cows and 220 sheep on 1,100 arpents of

common land! I believe there are philanthropists in England and Scotland

who think the enclosure and cultivation of common lands a crime against

humanity; and it would be edifying to listen to a 'conference' between

them and the shrewd, prosperous small farmers and gardeners who are

tilling these great spaces to-day in the Ile-de-France. One of the few

plainly advantageous results of the headlong Revolution of 1789 was the

transfer into many private hands of the immense estates which were held

by the abbeys and the clergy in and around Paris; and this transfer

might perfectly well have been brought about by steady and systematic

means without shaking the foundations of property and of order. We might

then have seen throughout France what we see in England--the gradual and

pacific evolution of a great industrial and commercial society on lines

not contradicting, but conforming to, the traditions of the nation.

The influence of the capital, of course, has had much to do with the

extraordinary development in these regions of all kinds of horticulture.

Nurseries, kitchen-gardens, flower-gardens occupy an increasing area of

the Ile-de-France, and a constantly growing proportion of its

inhabitants. M. Baudrillart says that in the single Department of the

Seine-et-Oise this proportion has increased tenfold since 1860, and he

puts it down for that Department in 1880 at 50,000 persons out of a

total population of 577,798.

The proportions can hardly, I should think, be much smaller in the

Departments of the Aisne and of the Oise. How much this industry adds to

the beauty of the country I need not say. Its influence is shown in a

notable increase of the love of flowers among the population generally.

The English villages no longer have the monopoly which they certainly

once had of flower-plots before and around the cottages, and of plants

carefully tended and blooming in the cottage windows. Years ago Dickens

used to say that London was the only capital in the world in which you

could count upon seeing something green and growing somewhere, no matter

how gloomy otherwise might be the quarter into which you strolled. This

is beginning to be true of not a few French towns and cities, while the

conditions of successful horticulture, in its various branches, give the

aspect of a garden to the rural regions in which it flourishes. The

nursery gardens, which are the most extensive, seldom cover more than

eight hectares; seed gardens range in extent from half a hectare to a

hectare; the fruit gardens from half a hectare to two hectares; the

gardeners who send up 'cut flowers' to market usually concentrate their

activity upon half a hectare of soil. These cultivators are all

capitalists in a small way, the least important of them requiring a

capital of from four to five hundred pounds sterling. And land so

employed is very often let on leases of three, six, or nine years, at

thirty-five pounds a hectare.

It is a curious thing that what may be called the 'Home Departments' of

France around Paris should be so much richer in these highly-developed

and remunerative forms of cultivation than the home counties of England

around London. Why should flowers, fruits, and vegetables, as a rule, be

so much better, so much cheaper, and so much more plentiful in the

French than in the English capital? The superiority of the French

markets cannot arise wholly from a difference of climate. Great risks

are run in this respect by the horticulturists of Picardy and the

Ile-de-France. M. Baudrillart tells a story of a large flower-gardener

in the Seine-et-Oise who, during the severe winter of 1879-80, found his

gardens deep in snow one morning, and, upon examining them, carefully

made up his mind that he stood to lose nearly 2,500_l._ sterling worth

of his best plants. That same evening he left for England, brought back

eleven waggon-loads of plants to supply the place of those killed by the

cold, and, by the spring, not only covered his losses but made a profit.

With its 'polygon' and its promenades the little city of La Fère, set in

the midst of well-tilled and fertile fields, has a martial air which

harmonises with its history. During the religious wars which ended with

the coronation of Henry of Navarre, this small Catholic stronghold was

besieged, taken, and retaken no fewer than four times in twenty years;

and, if we may believe an old sixteenth-century local ballad, the

Huguenots behaved in a way which showed that the 'Reformation' had not

improved their morals. The 'Déploration des Dames de la ville de La Fère

tenues forcément par les ennemis de la religion catholique' draws a

doleful picture of life in a conquered city three centuries ago.

Est-ce pas bien chose assez déplorable

De voir (hélas) son haineux à sa table

Rire, chanter et vivre opulément

De ce qu'avions gardé soigneusement?

En nostre lict quand il veut il se couche,

Faict nos maris aller à l'escarmouche

Ou à la brèche, enconstre notre foy,

Pour résister à Jésus et au Roy.

There are soldiers enough in La Fère to-day, for it is an artillery

station, as it was when Napoleon got his training here, but the peace of

the picturesque little fortress-town is less troubled by them than by

the politicians. A little local newspaper published here, which I bought

of an urchin at the uninviting but thriving station of Tergnier, was

full of paragraphs deriding and denouncing the clergy, which might have

been inspired by that model patriot and philanthropist Curtius, who

proposed in the year one of the Republic that the Government should make

a bargain with the Deys of Tunis and Algiers to ransom the French held

as slaves in those countries, exchanging them for French priests 'at the

rate of three priests for one patriot'!

'What sort of a newspaper is this?' I asked a cheery, red-faced old man,

well and substantially dressed, and, as he afterwards informed me, a

cattle-breeder and dealer on his way from Amiens to Laon.

'That journal, Monsieur?' he replied with a kind of 'sniff': 'that leaf?

It is a cabbage-leaf, Monsieur!' 'C'est une feuille de choux!' As for

himself he was a Republican--no, not a Boulangist--but he had voted for

Boulanger, and he would vote for him again. There must be an end of all

those taxes. It was too strong. The land could not pay them. In his

country a farm worth 30,000 francs eight years ago, to-day would not

sell for 20,000 francs. The farms that were mortgaged would not pay the

amount of the mortgages. Look at the taxes on cattle! These free-traders

at Paris want to drive us out of our markets with meat on the hoof, and

killed meat, from all the ends of the world. Here they are trying to

patch up that treaty of commerce with Italy, and bring back all those

competing cattle from Sardinia. That's a pretty idea! and for those

Italians, who owe France everything and now lick the boots of M. de

Bismarck. And now the Paris Chamber of Commerce wants an International

Congress on treaties of commerce. The devil take the treaties of

commerce!'

At the station of La Fère I found waiting for me, one lovely morning in

July, the _coupé_ of M. Henrivaux, the director of the famous and

historical glassworks of St.-Gobain. When Arthur Young visited these

works in 1787, he found them turning out, in the midst of extensive

forests, 'the largest mirrors in the world.' The forests are less

extensive now, but St.-Gobain still turns out the largest mirrors in the

world. To this year's Exposition in Paris it has sent the most gigantic

mirror ever made, showing a surface of 31.28 mètres; and the glory of

St.-Gobain is nightly proclaimed to the world at Paris by the electric

light which, from the summit of the Eiffel Tower, flashes out over the

great city and the valley of the Seine an auroral splendour of

far-darting rays, thanks to St.-Gobain and to the largest lens ever made

by man.

St.-Gobain, however, has other claims upon attention than its

unquestioned rank as the most important seat of one of the most

characteristic and important manufactures of our modern civilisation. In

a most interesting paper upon the life and labours of M. Augustin

Cochin, one of the most useful as well as one of the most distinguished

of the many useful and distinguished Frenchmen whose names are

associated with this great industry, M. de Falloux describes the works

of St.-Gobain as 'an industrial flower upon a seignorial stalk springing

from a feudal root.'

The description is both terse and pregnant. The history of this great

and flourishing industry, stretching back now over two centuries and a

half, is a history of evolution without revolution.

There is nothing in France more thoroughly French than St.-Gobain,

nothing which has suffered less from the successive Parisian earthquakes

of the past century, nothing which has preserved through them all more

of what was good in its original constitution and objects. The

establishment is like a green old oak, and, to borrow a phrase from

Wordsworth, its days have been joined each to each 'by natural piety.'

The place which it first took through privilege and favour, and could

have taken in no other way, it has kept ever since for nearly two

centuries and a half, and now holds by virtue of skill, energy, and that

eternal vigilance which is both the price and the penalty of free

competition.

The 'Knights of Labour' in our America of to-day put the cart before the

horse when they undertake to make labourers knights. The Middle Ages

knew better, and went to work in a wiser fashion by making knights

labourers. As early as the thirteenth century the glassworkers of France

had great privileges granted them, and an old proverb explains this by

telling us that 'to make a gentleman glassworker--_un gentilhomme

verrier_--you must first get a gentleman.' As soon as it was established

that by going into such a costly and artistic industry as this, a

gentleman did not derogate from his rank, the first important step was

taken towards the emancipation of industry. The glassworkers were

exempted from _tailles, aydes et subsides_, from _ost, giste,

chevaulchier et subventions_, or, in other words, military taxes could

not be levied upon them, nor troops quartered upon them, nor

requisitions made upon them. The _gentilhomme verrier_ had the right to

carry a sword and to wear embroideries, to fish and to hunt, nor could

the lord of a domain refuse to him, in return for a small fee, the right

to cut whatever wood he needed for his furnaces, and to collect and burn

the undergrowth into ashes for his manufacture. It was the richly and

densely wooded country about St.-Gobain which led to the establishment

at this spot in 1665 of the glassworks since developed into the great

establishment of our day. Even now, though gas has long since taken the

place of wood in the manufacture, and towns and farms have grown up in

the neighbourhood, no less than 2,440 hectares of the 2,900 which make

up the territory of St.-Gobain proper are still in woodland; and the

forests extend far beyond the limits of the commune which bears the

name of the Irish Catholic prince St.-Gobain, who came here in the

seventh century, as St. Boniface went to the Rhine, to evangelise the

country, and built himself a cell on the side of the mountain which

overlooks the glassworks. Here he did his appointed work, and here, on

June 2, 670, he was put to death. The mountain was then known as Mount

Ereme or Mount Desert, and it is still heavily wooded throughout almost

its whole extent.

The French Government also owns a very large domain around and beyond

St.-Gobain, about two-thirds, I am told, of the 10,000 hectares

constituting thirteen per cent. of the whole area of the Department of

the Aisne, which are still covered with forests.[6] These ten thousand

hectares are the remnant of the immense _sylvacum_ of the Laonnois, the

Andradawald of Eastern Gaul, through which Agrippa opened a great Roman

road connecting the capital of the world by way of Milan, Narbonnese

Gaul, Reims, and Soissons with the British Channel. At a short distance

from St.-Gobain a part of this ancient road running from south to north

through the lower forests of Coucy, is still in use, and is known by the

name of Queen Brunehild's Causeway. The chronicle of St.-Bertin, cited

by Bergier, attributes to that extraordinary woman the restoration of

this whole road throughout Gaul, and she certainly built a magnificent

abbey in the immediate neighbourhood.

[6] The total revenue derived from the woods and forests of the

State in France is set down in the Budget for 1890 at 25,614,300

francs, but the returns are 'lumped' and not given in detail. I am

told that the forests around St.-Gobain yield about 400,000 francs

of this revenue.

Encouraged by the wise administration of Colbert, an association of

glassworkers established itself at St.-Gobain in 1665 under the

direction of a 'gentleman glassworker,' M. du Noyer. Twenty years

afterwards, in 1688, a Norman 'gentleman glassworker,' M. Lucas de

Nehou, who had joined this association, invented the process known as

the _coulage_ of glass for mirrors, and this became the kernel of the

great industry of St.-Gobain. The association took the name, in 1688, of

the Thévart company, from De Nehou's most active colleague. It became

the Plastrier Company in 1702, and ten years afterwards, in 1712, M.

Geoffrin, the husband of the clever and enterprising friend of Voltaire

and the Empress Catherine, took charge as administrator of the

establishment. His wife really administered both the establishment and

M. Geoffrin. It was she who confided the direction of the works in 1739

to M. Deslandes, and she is fairly entitled to her share of credit for

the great progress made in the subsequent half-century down to 1789.

Under the First Consulate St.-Gobain had to give up the privileges it

had enjoyed and face the modern conditions of success. It has proved its

claim to its ancient privileges by its triumphs ever since it

surrendered them. The history of its relations with the crown and with

the courts under the _ancien régime_ is a most curious, interesting, and

instructive chapter of the political and social, as well as of the

industrial, annals of France, and it has been admirably told by M.

Augustin Cochin in his book on the manufactory of St.-Gobain from 1665

to 1866.

A drive of less than an hour through a highly cultivated rolling

country, made attractive by well-grown trees and luxuriant hedgerows,

brought me to the clear, bright, prosperous-looking town of St.-Gobain.

Its two thousand inhabitants owe their well-being, in one form or

another, to the great company, and among the most comfortable as well as

the most picturesque dwellings in the place are the houses built by the

company, and conceded on very favourable terms to the families of men

employed in the works. Piles of timber attested the activity of the

forest administration. The people I passed, singly or in groups, saluted

the director's carriage in a friendly, good-natured way, which seemed to

show that here, at least, the 'irrepressible conflict' between capital

and labour has not yet passed into the acute stage. A fine old church of

the thirteenth century, with a tower of the sixteenth, and the noble

trees which cover the slopes and shade the roadway of St.-Gobain, are no

more in keeping with the standard English and American type of a

manufacturing town than is the parklike domain in the midst of which

rise the main buildings of the great manufactory itself.

There M. Henrivaux gave me a cordial welcome. The château of St.-Gobain,

in which the offices of the company have long been established, is a

vast square edifice of the time and the style of Louis XIV. It occupies

the site, and, I believe, comprises one remaining wing of an earlier

château, which was stormed and partially destroyed by the English in the

fourteenth century. Henry IV. was seigneur of St.-Gobain, and when the

glassworks company, at the end of the seventeenth century, bought the

domain and the buildings from the Count de Longueval, then governor of

La Fère, the title of the crown to the property had to be extinguished

as well as his.

Nothing can be finer in its way than the wide panorama of forest-clad

hills and rolling vales, dotted here and there with towns, villages, and

châteaux, over which you gaze from the terrace in front of this unique

establishment. It has its pleasure-grounds and its park. Within the main

building, besides the extensive suite of apartments assigned to the

director, who resides there with his family, is another handsome suite

of apartments, reserved for the administrators, six in number, whenever

they may choose, collectively or severally, to visit St.-Gobain. These

apartments are furnished with stately simplicity, and the whole interior

preserves the grand air of the eighteenth century. The _fleurs de lis_

still adorn the lofty chimney-pieces, the waxed floors are sedulously

polished, and, as M. Henrivaux says, could the ghost of Lucas de Nehou

have returned to St.-Gohain only a year or two ago, he would have been

welcomed at the entrance gate by a Swiss wearing the royal liveries of

the House of Bourbon, and resting majestically on his halberd, like the

guards of the Scala Regia in the Vatican. This imposing warden has now

passed away, at the ripe age of a hundred and two, and M. Henrivaux

tells me that he was more alert and active to the last than his more

celebrated contemporary at Paris, the venerable Chevreuil.

When a new administrator first makes his appearance at St.-Gobain, I am

told, he is received with music by day and an illumination at night, a

grand mass is celebrated in the chapel dedicated to the royal Irish

martyr, and the whole place assumes for a moment the aspect of another

age.

In one of the _salons_ of the administration, two pictures commemorate

visits paid to the manufactory: one, under the Restoration, by the

Duchesse de Berri, the mother of the Count de Chambord; the other, under

the Second Empire, by the Empress Eugénie--pathetic pictures both,

making the room a place wherein to 'sit upon the floor and tell strange

stories of the deaths of kings.'

Beside the canvas in which the Empress appears--a graceful, gracious

woman in the prime of her life and her beauty--hangs a small mirror in a

gilded frame, silvered by her own imperial hand in the great workroom

of the manufactory. The work was well and deftly done, but so delicate

is the process that when the light strikes athwart this mirror at a

particular angle, you can clearly trace a faint hair line of shadow

traversing it, the ineffaceable record of a ripple of laughter which

broke from the Empress's lips at some gay remark made by one of the

personages grouped about her while her hand was completing its task.

I spent a delightful day with M. and Mme. Henrivaux, inspecting all

parts of the manufactory of mirrors, visiting the houses provided for a

considerable number of the workmen and their families, on terms most

advantageous to them by the company, and inquiring into the working of

the co-operative association founded by M. Cochin.

This association is an association of consumers only, not of producers.

Its original statutes were drawn up very carefully by M. Cochin, and as

they have been as carefully observed by the members and the managers, it

is the opinion of M. Henrivaux that the experiment has proved to be a

success. This may be inferred from the fact that the title of

'co-operative' has been assumed in the town of St.-Gobain by a bakery,

which seems to be managed on the principles of private competition under

the 'co-operative' flag. If the 'trademark' were not popular, it would

hardly have been assumed.

The company also encourages societies among its own workmen and in the

town for educational purposes, including a philharmonic and a choral

society, and is liberal in its expenditure upon the schools, both here

and at Chauny, the seat of its very important chemical works.

At St.-Gobain alone, I understand, it is now making an outlay of some

sixty thousand francs on new school-buildings, which is a larger sum

than the total of the taxes paid by the people of the place. The

'budget' of the commune amounts to 27,500 francs, or rather more than

ten francs _per capita_ of the population. Obviously the prosperity of

the glassworks makes the prosperity of St.-Gobain, which, but for them,

would doubtless soon relapse into the proportions of the little hamlet

gathered, twelve hundred years ago, by the Irish evangelist about the

miraculous fountain, which is said to have been evoked by him with a

blow of his staff, and which still flows beneath the shelter of his

church.

When Arthur Young visited St.-Gobain a hundred years ago he

congratulated himself on his 'good luck' in hitting upon a day when the

furnaces were in full blast and the _coulage_ going on. A traveller of

the present day who should reach St.-Gobain armed with the letters of

introduction necessary to secure his admission into the works, and find

the furnaces not in full blast and the _coulage_ not going on, would be

in very bad luck indeed.

For while in 1789 St.-Gobain was a privileged company, enjoying, for the

output of its works here and in Normandy, and in the Faubourg

St.-Antoine at Paris, a chartered monopoly, the output of its works

to-day, under the wholesome pressure of competition with a fair field

and no favour, is enormously greater than it was a century ago, both in

volume and in value; and the position of St.-Gobain among the glassworks

of the world is at least as high under the presidency of the Duc de

Broglie, in 1889, as it was under the presidency of the Duc de

Montmorency in 1789. Yet the company is still administered, not indeed

according to the letter of its original statutes of the time of the

Grand Monarque, but in the spirit of those statutes. It is an ancient

dynasty which has simply accepted the changed conditions of modern life

and modern activity, and conformed its operations to them without

abandoning its fundamental principles. The successful advance of this

great industry, through all the changes, convulsions, and developments

of the past century, is quite as instructive as are the successive

catastrophes of French politics during the same time. 'I think,' said M.

Henrivaux to me, 'that when you compare the St.-Gobain of 1702 with the

St.-Gobain of 1889, you will perhaps agree with me that there is some

force in our double motto, 'tradition dans le progrès et hérédité dans

l'honneur.'

It is a curious fact that Lucas de Nehou, the inventor of plate glass,

was originally induced by the founders of St.-Gobain to leave his own

establishment at Tour-la-ville in Normandy and come to their works in

Paris, because the Venetian glassworkers who had been invited by Colbert

into France, refused to instruct the French workmen in their 'art and

mystery.' They could not be blamed for this. Venice was then the

acknowledged headquarters of the glass manufacture, and it was the

unchangeable policy of the 'most serene Republic' to keep all her

secrets to herself. A fundamental statute ordained that if any artisan

or artist took his art into a foreign country he should be ordered to

return. If he did not obey, his nearest relatives were to be imprisoned,

in order that his affection for them might lead him to submit. If he

submitted, his emigration should be forgiven, and he should be

established in his industry at Venice. If he did not submit, a person

was sent after him to kill him, and after he was well and duly killed

his relatives were to be released. In the thirteenth century Venetian

artists suffered death under this statute in Bologna, Florence, Mantua,

and other Italian cities. Even in Venice the glassworks were rigidly

confined to the island of Murano, in order to keep the workmen from

coming into contact with strangers visiting the city. When the Republic,

in 1665, as a matter of policy allowed a certain number of glassworkers

to go to France, at the request of Colbert, and to take service there

under Du Noyer at Paris, in his manufactory of mirrors, these workmen

were forbidden to teach their trade to any Frenchman. The result, as I

have said, was that Du Noyer finally brought about a combination with M.

de Nehou, the owner of certain glassworks at Tour-la-ville in Normandy,

that De Nehou came to Paris, that out of their joint enterprise

eventually arose the company now known as the Company of St.-Gobain,

that the French workmen trained by De Nehou did excellent work, and that

De Nehou put himself in the way of making, towards the end of the

seventeenth century, his invention of plate glass, which finally drove

Venetian mirrors out of the markets of the world. The Venetian mirrors,

charming as they are from the æsthetic point of view of decorative art,

are simply blown glass rolled flat, cut, polished, and tinned. The art

of making them came, like other arts, to Venice from the East, and in

the sixteenth century the Venetian mirror was the true 'glass of

fashion' all over Europe. The famous 'Galerie des Glaces' at Versailles,

of which Louis XIV. was so proud, was filled up with mirrors of 'French

manufacture after the fashion of Venice,' as the royal expense-rolls

state, and it took De Nehou and his workmen five years--from 1678 to

1683--to do the work. Eight years afterwards, in 1691, he presented King

Louis with certain 'large mirrors of plate glass,' the firstfruits of

his invention, made in 1689. In 1693, he was made Director of the 'Royal

Manufactory of Grand Mirrors,' and the manufactory was established in

the ruined Château de St.-Gobain.

A hundred years afterwards, in 1798, Napoleon Bonaparte occupied Venice

with a French army and made an end of that 'most serene' republic, as he

did, not long afterwards, of the least serene republic at Paris. He put

Berthier in command, and a commission of French savants, of which

Berthollet was a member, proceeded to pick the locks and investigate the

mysteries of Venetian art. Their report upon the Venetian glassworks was

to the effect that France knew more about the matter than Venice. 'The

industries of Venice,' said these irreverent conquerors, 'as precocious

as the industries of China, have stood still like them.'

In this age of jointstock companies and limited liabilities, it may be

interesting to see on what terms the original founders of the Company of

St.-Gobain put their heads and their purses together, to establish a

great industrial enterprise. Their articles of association were signed

by twelve associates on February 1, 1703, some ten years after William

Paterson and Lord Halifax laid the foundations of the Bank of England

and of the British public debt. The capital of the company, estimated at

2,040,000 livres, was divided into twenty-four shares of 85,000 livres

each, called 'sols,' and these again into twelve parts each, called

'deniers,' making a total of 288 'deniers.' These curious designations,

taken from the currency of the time, were used down to the overthrow of

the restored Bourbon monarchy in 1830. The owners of these shares, or

'deniers,' bound themselves solemnly never to make a loan, but to meet

all the expenses of the enterprise by assessments in proportion to their

holdings, and always to keep in hand a fund for current expenses of at

least one million of livres. They were to receive ten per cent. on their

capital, a special honorarium of 1,000 livres a year apiece, and a fee

of two crowns for attendance at meetings. All misunderstandings were to

be settled by arbitration, and all the proceedings were to be secret.

Under these articles St.-Gobain grew up, prospered, withstood the shock

of successive political revolutions in France, and kept its place in the

front of the great industrial movement of the nineteenth century down to

the year 1830.

During this long life of over a century and a quarter, the payment of

dividends seems to have been suspended for three years only, and that

after the Terror, from 1794 to 1797. In 1792, when the Girondins and the

Jacobins were tearing France to pieces between them, and courting

foreign invasion as a stimulus to domestic anarchy, the works were

stopped for a time in Paris, at Tour-la-ville and at St.-Gobain, but

only for a time. The very able director of the company, M. Deslandes,

originally selected, as I have said, by Madame Geoffrin, and who had

vindicated her good judgment by managing the affairs of the company with

success for thirty years, resigned his post in 1789. He was a model

disciplinarian of the old school.

In 1775, finding that some of the workmen at Tour-la-ville had been

seduced from their duty by a glassmaker at La Fère-en-Tardenois, M.

Deslandes called upon the Intendant at Soissons to clap them into

prison. Turgot, the friend of Franklin, objected to this, but M.

Deslandes gave him plainly to understand that 'a government which should

tolerate such misconduct would be detestable.'

When a great mirror was to be cast at St.-Gobain, M. Deslandes always

took command of the works in full dress, his peruke well powdered and

his sword by his side. Clearly such a director as this was out of

keeping with a king who would not let his officers fire upon a howling

mob, and who put on a red cap to oblige a swarm of drunken ruffians.

M. Deslandes was followed into retirement by several of the

administrators of the company, who emigrated, and in 1793 the Republic

caused the cashier of the company, M. Guérin, to be guillotined on the

heinous charge of corresponding with his former employers and friends

beyond the frontier. Naturally this crime was committed, like so many

similar crimes of that day, with an eye to the main chance. The shares

of the administrators who had emigrated were confiscated, in the names

of Liberty, Equality, Fraternity, and the confiscators sent sundry

'patriots' to sit on the administrative council of the company. Their

incompetency was so ludicrous and mischievous that Robespierre,

representing the State which had thus stolen an interest in the

enterprise, could not stand it. He actually 'requisitioned' two

noblemen--two 'aristocrats'--among the as yet undisturbed owners of the

property, to come forward and direct it, just as the leader of a

successful mutiny of convicts on board of a transport might

'requisition' the deposed captain and mate of the vessel to carry her

safely through a storm!

With the return of law and order in the person of the Corsican conqueror

things resumed their normal course at St.-Gobain; and as I have already

said, the company flourished under its old organisation down to the

establishment of the Monarchy of July. Then the owners of the 'deniers'

put themselves and their property under the general Civil Code, in the

form of what is called in modern France a 'société anonyme,' and at the

first general meeting of the 'société' in April 1831 the accounts of 128

years, over which no question had ever arisen among the representatives

of the original holders, were presented and approved. Certainly this

must be admitted to be a most noteworthy case of 'l'hérédité dans

l'honneur.'

The new 'société' has greatly extended and strengthened its operations

since 1831. The works at Tour-la-ville have been abandoned, the site

sold, and the workmen transferred to St.-Gobain. The glassworks of

St.-Quirin, the proprietors of which, on the abolition in 1804 of

privileges in general, had taken to making plate glass, were taken over

in 1858 by the St.-Gobain company, together with certain other works at

Mannheim in Germany and the chemical works at Cirey, and the 'société'

assumed the name under which it is now known of 'The Company of Mirrors

and Chemical Products of St.-Gobain, Chauny, and Cirey.' In 1863 it

bought up the works at Stolberg near Aix-la-Chapelle in Rhenish Prussia,

in 1868 a minor manufactory at Montluçon in the Department of the

Allier, and finally during this current year 1889 it is establishing a

manufactory at Pisa in Italy.

The operations of the company, as it now exists, extend to six

manufactories of mirrors, six manufactories of chemicals, a mine of iron

pyrites, a salt mine, many thousand hectares of forests in this

department of the Aisne and in the province of Lorraine, and to a local

railway connecting St.-Gobain with Chauny, where the plate glass cast at

St.-Gobain is polished and the mirrors are silvered. At St.-Gobain,

besides the plate glass mirrors, glass is made for roofs, for floors,

for pavements, for optical instruments, including the finest lenses used

in the lighthouses of France. Here, as I have said, the lens was made

now used at the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, from which, night

after night, a gigantic auroral ray of electric light leaps into space

and shoots for miles athwart the sky, to the inexpressible delight of

the gaping crowds below, and I hope to the edification of the world of

science.

Since 1870 the output of the company from its various manufactories has

more than doubled. It now amounts, in round numbers, to 800,000 square

mètres a year of polished plate glass; to 500,000 square mètres a year

of rough glass; to a million kilogrammes a year of blocks and castings

for floors and roofings, and to eighty thousand kilogrammes a year of

optical glasses of all sorts.

In the time of Louis XIV. and before Lucas de Nehou had made his

invention of plate glass, there was absolutely no public demand for what

in those days were called 'large mirrors' made in the Venetian fashion,

mirrors which to-day would not find a market in the most remote frontier

towns of America or Australia. Colbert then wrote to the Comte d'Avaux

apropos of the works of Lucas de Nehou in Normandy, that 'there was

absolutely no market for large mirrors in the kingdom, the king being

the only person who could possibly need them!'

This was in 1673.

In 1702, ten years after the invention of the process by which plate

glass is made, a mirror with a surface area of one mètre cost 165

francs. In 1889 such a mirror costs 30 f. 25 c. A mirror with four

mètres of surface area cost, in 1702, 2,750 francs. In 1889 it costs 136

francs.

When we come down to modern times and to the much larger mirrors

produced of late years, the fall in prices is extraordinary. In 1873 a

mirror with ten square mètres of surface cost 1,200 francs. To-day such

a mirror can be bought at St.-Gobain for 467 francs, showing a fall of

nearly two-thirds in price within sixteen years!

To-day the total production of polished plate glass in the world is

estimated as follows:--

square mètres

England (4 companies) 900,000

Belgium (6 companies) 600,000

Germany (4 companies) 150,000

United States (7 companies) 500,000

France (not including St.-Gobain) 130,000

St.-Gobain 800,000

---------

Total 3,080,000

From this it will be seen that nearly one quarter of the plate glass of

a world in which plate glass, like champagne, is rapidly ceasing to be a

luxury and becoming a necessity, is produced at this ancient

establishment. With a keen perception of the tendencies of this age

St.-Gobain, of late years, has been fitting its machinery to produce the

very largest plates of glass possible to be made. Go where you like,

from the Eden Theatre in Paris to the Casino of Monte Carlo, from the

new monster hotel at the Gare St.-Lazare to the enormous edifice which

an enterprising firm of tradesmen has planted in the centre of the Corso

at Rome, and the vast glittering sheets of silvered glass turned out

from the great forges everywhere confront you. At the French Exposition

of 1878 St.-Gobain enabled the 'fly gobblers' of two hemispheres to

admire themselves in the most gigantic mirror ever made down to that

date. It measured six mètres and a half in height, by four mètres and

eleven centimètres in width, which gave it a surface area of 26 mètres

12 centimètres. Naturally M. Henrivaux determined to surpass this

prodigy in 1889, and to match the Eiffel Tower with a mirror. The

Belgian rivals of St.-Gobain suspected this, it seems, and sent forth

subtle persons to spy out the plans of the great French manufactory.

These colossal plates of glass are cast upon immense 'tables' of metal,

and by ascertaining the dimensions of the tables ordered for St.-Gobain

the ingenious Belgians hoped to get the measure of the effort it would

be necessary for them to outdo. In anticipation of this subtlety the

director of St.-Gobain ordered two immense tables, and when these were

sent to the manufactory, had them skilfully thrown into one. Upon the

gigantic table thus prepared the grand mirror of the Exposition of 1889

was cast at the eleventh hour. This mirror was the special delight of

the Shah of Persia during his visit of this year to Paris; and as I

suppose the seven plate-glass manufactories which have grown up in my

own beloved country under the benediction of the Protective Tariff,

since a prohibitive duty was originally clapped on plate glass to

encourage the one solitary establishment of the sort then existing in

America, will give themselves up to producing something more stupendous

still for the New York Exposition of 1892, I here set down its

dimensions. It measures in height 7 mètres 63 centimètres, and in width

4 mètres 10 centimètres, giving it a superficial area of 34 mètres 24

centimètres. It is 12 millimètres thick, and weighs 940 kilogrammes.

This enormous glass was cast from a single crucible, containing 1,600

kilogrammes of vitreous matter. To have seen this operation would have

been worth a very much longer journey than that from New York to

St.-Gobain, for the colour and glow of such a mass of vitreous matter in

fusion can only be matched by the evanescent hues of a crimson aurora on

a fine night in the North, or by the intense lights which play over the

surface of a stream of molten lava.

At every stage in the operation the utmost skill and delicacy of

handling are required to convert what might easily pass for a heap of

rubbish swept together from a macadamised roadway into the smooth,

glittering, lustrous plate which the French so picturesquely call a

_glace_, and which indeed most nearly resembles the evenly frozen

surface of a crystal lakelet. These sands, silicates, chalks, and

carbonates--rough contributions from Oken's 'silent realm of the

minerals'--are first crushed and mingled together by machines--one of

the best of them, I was glad to hear, of American invention--then passed

on into the great rectangular hall, in which they are shot into the

crucibles of the melting furnaces and fused, mainly by gas, on a system

invented and perfected by the late Dr. Siemens, I believe, who made such

a stir a decade ago at Glasgow by his discourse on the storage of force

before the British Association. The furnaces which, according to their

varying capacity, now require from eight to ten tons of coal a day,

consumed, before the development of the Siemens system, from sixteen to

twenty tons. Twenty-four hours now suffice for the fusion and the

casting of the glass, and if the casting were now to be conducted as

ceremoniously as in the time of that fine old martinet M. Deslandes, M.

Henrivaux would pass his life in a cocked hat, knee-breeches, peruke,

embroidered coat, and sword, for the casting now takes place every day

and at a fixed hour. None the less, rather the more, it is a work still

of extreme nicety, one to be done by experts, who must be as cool as

soldiers under fire. In a certain way and measure it is like ladling out

the molten lava of Vesuvius and pressing it into slabs for a lady's

toilette-table. The plates, once cast, must be smoothed and made even.

This is a very pretty process, and used to be performed by machines

which bore the very pretty names of _valseuses_. That paviour's rammers

should be called _demoiselles_ has always seemed to me an outrage and an

impertinence, though I may suppose it finds its excuse in the

short-waisted costumes of our grandmothers. But the movement of the

glass-smoothing _valseuses_ was really a sort of waltz movement. The

plates of glass were fixed with plaster on a solid rectangular table.

Granite-dust was scattered upon the plates, and then a wooden plateau,

armed on the under side with bands of cast iron or steel, was set to

waltzing over it backwards and forwards with a semi-rotatory motion, the

granite-dust supplied becoming finer and finer as the waltzing went on.

Instead of these _valseuses_ two great plates of glass are now fixed

side by side with plaster on huge tables, and two large ashlars are set

turning by steam on their own axes while they describe a great orbit

over the plates of glass. A stream of water constantly plays upon the

plates, which are also constantly powdered with fine sand. The ashlars

turn on their axes thirty or forty times a minute, and the plates of

glass are usually smoothed and 'evened' on both faces now by these

machines in from eight to nine hours, including the time spent in taking

them out of the plaster after one face has been smoothed, and fixing

them anew in the plaster, that the other face may fare as well. Here

again a considerable economy of time has been made. And, after all, when

one looks into the practical production of any of these great marvels of

human industry, it is in this economy of time that the real advance of

modern science beyond the results of ancient invention seems to consist.

With all our nineteenth-century chorus of 'self-praising,

self-admiring,' where should we be if certain--for the most part,

uncertain and forgotten--men of genius had not invented the primordial

processes which made art and civilisation possible? The workshop came

first, and was the real marvel in the case of every great industry. To

talk of the 'invention' of the steam-engine, for example, is an

absurdity. The 'invention' was the engine, an invention as old as Egypt

or China. The discovery that steam could be made to work the engine is

the more modest modern achievement. In this industry of glass-making the

amazing thing is that it should have come into the mind of a man so to

apply the heat of burning wood to sands and silicates enclosed in an

earthen vessel as to convert them into an entirely new substance

possessing qualities not perceivable by any human sense in the sands,

the silicates, or the earth.

What our modern progress in chemistry and in mechanics has enabled the

makers of glass to do, is greatly to reduce the trouble and cost of

producing this entirely new substance, greatly to improve the quality of

the substance produced, and to extend the range of the uses to which it

can be applied.

What would the Egyptians, who paid their tribute in glass to Rome, have

thought of a serious order to pave the Via Sacra with blocks of purple

glass? Yet such an order could be executed now at St.-Gobain, and when

one sees the great flags weighing nine kilogrammes made here and used to

let light into the cellarage below the carriage-ways, for example, of

the huge Hôtel Continental, at Paris, it comes easily within the

probabilities that the whole underworld of our great cities in time may

thus come to be made available for divers uses, as so much of the

underworld of Broadway now is in New York.

The great 'pavement question' is an open question still, in spite of

asphalte and of wood, and there would seem to be nothing in the nature

of things to prevent its being eventually solved by the glassworkers.

The roofing question clearly belongs to them. The casting of glass for

roofs began, I believe, with England, in the time of Sir Joseph Paxton,

but it has been immensely developed at St.-Gobain. Over a hundred

thousand square mètres of glass roofing made here were required for the

building of the Exposition of this year at Paris. All the most important

railway stations in France, from Nantes to Strasburg (unless the Germans

have changed this), and from Calais to Marseilles, are thus roofed. In

great warehouses, markets, public museums, street galleries--like those

of Victor Emmanuel at Milan--factories, workshops all over France and

the Continent, this conversion of the roof into a colossal window has

revolutionised matters within the last twenty years. The light is making

its way even into Turkey, where the great bazaar at Salonica has been

roofed in glass by St.-Gobain, and as the Chinese, who, despite their

early invention of glass, never got beyond using it for beads and little

bottles, have condescended to admit great French mirrors into the

Imperial Palace at Pekin, the glass roof may, ere long, make its way

even into China.

In the form of tiles, such as are now made here, glass must inevitably,

sooner or later, displace slates and shingles and terra-cotta for the

roofs, even of private houses, it being quite certain that these glass

tiles can be so used as to give a much better light in the garrets of

private houses than can possibly be got through the windows. When that

comes to pass the burglar's occupation of clambering stealthily from

roof to roof will be seriously interfered with. What with glass roofs

and glass floors and electricity, indeed, the city of the future is

likely to be much more easily 'policed' and patrolled, as well as

incomparably more cheery and habitable, than the city of to-day.

Perhaps, too, when we all come to living in glass houses, the cause of

peace and good neighbourhood may gain, and even Mrs. Grundy may grow

more careful about looking into the affairs of her friends and

acquaintances.

If that much maligned potentate the Emperor Nero had any real notion of

the capabilities of glass when he established the first glassworks at

Rome, the lamentation with which he took farewell of the world, '_qualis

artifex pereo_,' may have been inspired by regret at his not being

allowed time enough to develop them. Certainly such gigantic mirrors as

those which St.-Gobain has this year sent to the Exposition would have

shown to better advantage in his colossal 'Golden House' than in any of

our petty modern palaces. In what palace in England or in France to-day

could a mirror measuring 7 mètres x 63 centimètres in height by 4 mètres

x 12 centimètres in width, and thus displaying a surface of more than 30

square mètres, be placed, without dwarfing everything about it? These

immense and magnificent mirrors must go hereafter to decorate palaces of

public resort--'palaces of the people,' not palaces of princes. What was

a royal luxury when Colbert wrote to D'Avaux in 1673 has become a

popular attraction. The smallest restaurant in Paris would think itself

discredited to-day were it decorated with one of the _grandes glaces_

for which Colbert in 1693 thought St.-Gobain would find no purchaser

save the king; but the Grand Café and the Hôtel Terminus of the Gare

St.-Lazare order mirrors in 1889 which no king of our times would very

well know what to do with.

Yet, once more, how the cost of these mirrors has fallen! In 1702 a

plate-glass mirror showing two square mètres only by surface, cost, at

St.-Gobain, 540 francs. In 1889 such a mirror, showing four square

mètres of surface, costs, at St.-Gobain, 136 francs. A mirror showing

ten square mètres of surface, which could not have been made in 1702 at

any price, can now be had for 467 francs!

In 1802, under Napoleon, a mirror showing four square mètres of surface

cost 3,644 francs, or very nearly three times the present cost of a

mirror, not tinned like the mirrors of 1802, but silvered, of twice and

a half that size. While new markets are constantly opening to this great

industry all over the world, the progress of chemical science and of

mechanics is as constantly suggesting new economies and new improvements

in the manufacture of glass, and St.-Gobain, though one of the most

thoroughly French of all French 'institutions,' shows no Chauvinism in

its incessant study and prompt appropriation of these economies and

these improvements. During the invasion of 1814 the workmen of

St.-Gobain marched off to Chauny to resist the advance of the Prussians,

and the manufactory had to pay a heavy fine for its patriotism. But it

avails itself as readily of German as of French science to-day, and I

found M. Henrivaux entirely and minutely familiar with the very latest

phenomena of the great change which is coming over the glassworks, as

well as all the other industries, of Pittsburg, through the use there of

natural gas instead of coal gas and coal. All the most recently invented

furnaces--English, German, American--have been tried and tested here as

soon as they were made; and the latest American 'crushers' and

'regulators' get to St.-Gobain as soon as they do to Pittsburg. The

materials which go to the making of a plate-glass mirror pass through

seven processes before the original heap of pebbles, dust, and ashes is

transformed into a sheet of splendour and light.

A hundred years ago more than ten days were required to complete these

seven processes, from the crushing and mixing and putting into the

furnace of the soda and the silicious sand and the charcoal and the lime

and the broken glass, called here _calcin_, through the fusion, and the

moulding, and the squaring, and the smoothing, and the washing, and the

polishing. Now this is all done in half the time--127 hours instead of

246.

With all this the condition of the workmen employed at St.-Gobain has

also steadily improved. It seems always to have been good, relatively to

the general conditions of workmen in other industries and other

establishments in France. Under the original statutes, and in the time

of the excellent M. Deslandes, the nominee of Madame Geoffrin, who ruled

St.-Gobain with great success from 1759 down to the Revolution, the

workmen of St.-Gobain, as I have shown, were looked after, as well as

kept to their duty, on strictly patriarchal principles, not likely to

find favour in modern eyes. That they did not themselves dislike the

system may be inferred from the fact that no such thing as a strike has

ever been known at St.-Gobain, and that a considerable proportion of the

workmen employed here now are the direct descendants of workmen employed

here in the last century. There are even workers by inheritance, as men

may be soldiers and sailors or magistrates by inheritance. Of course

with the great extension in our own time of the operation of the

company, great numbers of workmen other than glassworkers have come into

its employment. But in the glass manufactures alone there are now

employed: at St.-Gobain 375 workmen, at Chauny 583, at Cirey-sur-Vezouze

628, at Montluçon 473, at Stolberg, in Rhenish Prussia, 842, at Waldhof,

in Baden-Baden, 518; making, in all, 3,419.

The wages of the workmen are paid by the day, by the month, or by the

piece, according to the special work which they do, but in all cases

(and this, I believe, has been the rule here from the beginning) the

workman is interested in his work by one premium on the amount, and by

another on the quality of the work done. Furthermore (and this also

dates from the beginning) the company look after the primary education

of the children of the workmen. At St.-Gobain, at Chauny, at Cirey, at

Montluçon, and I believe, also, at Waldhof, it maintains schools for

both sexes at its own expense, together with asylums and training

schools for the children. In these there are now more than 1,400

children. When the company owns no such school it pays a subvention to

the nearest school for the benefit of the children of its workmen.

Here at St.-Gobain the company owns a number of houses, each house

having a garden and dependencies, which it lets to the workmen at an

average rental of eight francs a month. I saw not long ago, at one of

the stations on a line newly opened by the Great Eastern Railway Company

of England, very neat and even handsome cottages well built of brick and

thoroughly comfortable, which are leased to servants of the company at

2s. 6_d_. a week, or ten shillings a month. The houses I saw at

St.-Gobain let at less than seven shillings a month, were quite as large

as those of the Great Eastern Company, and the gardens were much larger.

I gathered from the remarks made to me at St.-Gobain by people who

seemed to be both well-informed and well-disposed, that of late years

the liberality of the company in regard to these houses has, in not a

few cases, worked mischief rather than good. They are not confined to

St.-Gobain, and the company owns and leases no fewer than 1,256 of

them. A good many allotments of land around the factories are also made

at nominal rates to the workmen, who cultivate them assiduously. The

glass-founders are particularly favoured in making these leases and

allotments. Besides these houses meant for families, the company

provides lodgings near the factories for unmarried workmen, or for

workmen whose homes are at a considerable distance from their work.

Within the buildings of the manufactory itself at St.-Gobain, M.

Henrivaux showed me some such lodgings, as well as several bath-rooms

which the workmen are allowed to use on the payment of a very slight

fee. It is his experience that the workmen prefer to consider the bath

as a luxury, and to pay for it.

All the relations between the company and its workmen, indeed, seem to

me to be governed by a sensible avoidance on the part of the company of

everything like fussy paternalism; and to this, in some measure, I have

no doubt, must be attributed the remarkably smooth and easy working of

these relations through so long a course of years. The workmen are

treated, not like children, but like reasonable beings, who may be

expected to avail themselves of advantages which are offered them with

an eye at once to their own interests and to the interests of the

company.

The co-operative societies at St.-Gobain and at Chauny, for example,

were founded in 1866, not by the company, but by the employees of the

company under statutes carefully drawn up by M. Cochin, and the company

simply undertook to assist them; in the first place by leasing them, at

a low rent, the buildings necessary for the business, and in the next

place by taking charge gratuitously of their financial operations. The

goods supplied are sold only to members of the societies, as in the

co-operative stores in England. The transactions amount to about

1,500,000 francs a year, the goods are sold at prices below those

charged in the local shops, and the members divide an average annual

profit of from eight to ten per cent. The management is entirely in the

hands of the members.

The company has founded at St.-Gobain a kind of savings-bank in which

the workman may make deposits of from one franc to 400 francs, drawing

interest at the rate of 4 per cent. per annum, until the maximum is

reached, when the money is either paid back to the depositor or, if he

prefers, invested for him, without charge by the company, in the public

funds or in railway securities. In this way many of the workmen are

coming to be small capitalists. If they wish also to become house-owners

the company advances, at the lowest possible rate of interest, the

necessary funds for the purchase, and workmen in good standing with the

company find no difficulty in getting gratuitous advances of money

repayable in small fixed amounts, upon showing good reasons for the

advance. And in all the establishments of the company, except at

Montluçon, where there is a special fund to give assistance in cases of

accident or disease, the workmen and their families are entitled to

medical advice and medicines at the expense of the company.

In addition to all these arrangements for promoting a real community of

interests between the company and its employees, there is a pension fund

out of which retiring pensions, varying from one-fifth to one-fourth of

the wages earned by the pensioner, are granted to employees who have

served the company for a certain number of years, or who find themselves

disabled from further service by age or by disease. A certain

proportion, determinable by the circumstances of each case, of these

pensions is settled upon the widows and young children of the

pensioners; and in order to encourage habits of thrift and forecast

among the workmen, the company undertakes to manage without charge the

investment of a certain proportion of his wages by any workman in the

'pension fund' of the national government.

The total outlay of the company upon these various methods of promoting

a community of interests between itself and its employees amounted in

1888 to 438,033 francs, thus divided:--

francs

Pensions 241,657

Medical Service 100,055

Schools and Religious Services 57,788

Recreations 17,667

Gifts and Assistance 19,758

The outlay upon 'recreation' is made in the form of subventions and

prizes granted to associations of the workmen, such as shooting and

gymnastic clubs and musical societies. The manufactory, for example,

boasts a philharmonic society of its own, and there is a Choral Society

of St.-Gobain. Both of these have scored successes in various public

exhibitions. There is a rifle club, founded in 1861, and reconstituted

in 1874, with an eye to the possible military necessities of the

country.

The relations between the company and its employees under this system,

the germs of which were planted here two centuries ago, have assumed

such a character that the workmen habitually speak not of the

manufactory but of the 'maison.' They are and feel themselves to be

members of a great economic family. Of 2,650 persons now actively

employed in St.-Gobain, Chauny, and Cirey, 432, or 16.3 per cent., have

been employed for more than thirty years; 411, or 15.5 per cent., for

more than twenty and less than thirty years; 553, or 20.9 per cent., for

more than ten and less than twenty years; and only 1,254, or 47.3 per

cent., for less than ten years.

It would be instructive to compare this record with the records of the

most important industrial establishments in England and America during

the past thirty years, and I should be glad to see this done by some of

the people who talk so glibly in England and America of the inherent

fickleness and instability of the French character, as offering an

adequate explanation of the political catastrophes which have so often

recurred in France during the past century.

One of the most curious features of the establishment at St.-Gobain is a

subterranean lake. The fine forests around St.-Gobain and La

Fère--forests of oak, beech, elm, ash, birch, maple, yoke-elm, aspen,

wild cherry, linden, elder, and willow--flourish upon a tertiary

formation. The surface of clay keeps the soil marshy and damp, but this

checks the infiltration of the rainwater and therefore favours the

growth of the trees. In the calcareous rock the early inhabitants

hollowed out for themselves caverns, in which they took refuge from

their enemies and from the beasts of the forest; and these caverns,

called by the people _creuttes_--an obvious corruption of the name of

_crypts_, given them by the Roman conquerors of Gaul, just as the early

French trappers gave the name of 'caches' to the Indian hiding-places of

the Far West--are to be found all about Soissons and Laon. The more

modern lords of St.-Gobain, its monks and its barons, dug out of the

calcareous rock the stones which they used to build their châteaux and

their churches, and they created great _creuttes_ beneath St.-Gobain. It

seems to have occurred to M. Deslandes, during his long and skilful

supervision of the works here, that these caverns might be put to the

very practical use of securing an adequate water-supply. The idea has

been thoroughly carried out, and the subterranean reservoir of

St.-Gobain is much more impressive as a spectacle than the crypts of the

Cisterns at Constantinople. It is kept filled to an average depth of one

mètre by the infiltration of the surface waters and by the overflow of a

pond, La Marette, on the plateau of St.-Gobain, and it covers an area of

some 1,200 square mètres.

After two or three hours spent in visiting the various departments of

the glassworks overhead, M. Henrivaux led me through winding passages,

which reminded me of the dismal vomitories at Baiæ, down into this

strange underworld. Walls and pillars, partly of the natural rock, left

in the working of the quarries, partly of masonry built up to strengthen

the reservoir, give this weird water, when you reach it, the aspect

rather of a stream than of a lake. A workman, who had preceded and

guided us with a swinging lantern, put out a long boathook, and drew

slowly around to the landing-place a long, shallow boat, into which he

invited us to step. M. Henrivaux had kindly sent orders in the morning

to have the reservoir illuminated with Venetian and Chinese lanterns of

various colours. These had been hung from hooks in the rocks and pillars

with infinite good taste at long intervals, so as to illuminate not too

brilliantly the mystical darkness of the scene. Looking upon the vague,

indefinite vista, as it glimmered away into an indefinable distance, one

seemed really to stand

Where Alp, the sacred river, ran

Through caverns measureless by man,

Down to a shoreless sea.

Seating ourselves carefully in the boat, our silent boatman, like a

spectral gondolier, rowed us silently along the labyrinthine canals of

this dim and ghostly Venice. Vathek Beckford would have made them

waterways to the Hall of Eblis.

France and the Republic A Record of Things Seen and Learned in the French Provinces During the 'Centennial' Year 1889 · 第 7 / 17 章