CHAPTER V.

IN THE SOMME.

AMIENS

By turns English, French, and Burgundian, Upper Picardy, of which Amiens

was the capital, became definitely French under the astute policy of

Louis XI. The Calaisis and the Boulonnais, with Ponthieu and Vimieu,

eventually constituted what was called Lower Picardy, and the whole

province, divided under the Bourbons into the two 'generalities' of

Amiens and Soissons, formed before 1789 one of the twelve great

departments of the monarchy, and was brought under the domain of the

Parliament of Paris.

The city of Amiens, associated now, I fear, chiefly, in the English and

American mind, with 'twenty minutes' stop' on the way between Calais and

Paris, and with a buffet which perhaps entitles it to be called the

Mugby Junction of France, is really one of the most interesting of

French cities. No student of Ruskin can need to be told that its

glorious cathedral makes it one of the most interesting, not of French

only, but of European cities; and two or three excellent small hotels

make it a most comfortable as well as a most instructive midway station,

not for 'twenty minutes,' but for a couple of days, between the capitals

of England and France. Arthur Young found it so a hundred years ago,

when he encountered there the illustrious Charles James Fox returning to

London from a visit to the Anglomaniac Due d' Orléans, in the company

of a charming 'Madame Fox,' of whom Arthur Young and London had no

previous cognisance.

Like Dijon, and Nancy, and Toulouse, and Rennes, and Rouen, Amiens still

wears that 'look of a capital' which is as unmistakeable, if also as

undefinable, as Hazlitt found the 'look of a gentleman' to be. York and

Exeter, for example, in England, have this look, while Liverpool and

Hull have it not. There are traces of the Spaniards in Amiens, as there

are wherever that most Roman of all the Latin peoples has ever passed,

and the curious _hortillonages_ of Amiens, which may be roughly

described as a kind of floating kitchen gardens, remind one so strongly

of the much more picturesque Chinampas of Mexico as to suggest the

impression that the idea of establishing them may have come hither by

way of Spain.

At the present time, Amiens is a point of no small political interest.

It is the bailiwick of one of the few really notable men of the actual

Republican party in France--- M. Goblet--and yet it is one of the

strongholds of Boulangism. There is an old song, the refrain of which,

as I heard it sung, more years ago than I care to recall, always haunts

me when I visit this ancient city:--

Vive un Picard, vive un Picard,

Quand il s'agit de tete!

The Picards have always shown, not only sense, but a kind of stubborn

independence of character. In the days of anarchy which came upon France

with the brief but ill-omened triumph of the Girondins, Amiens was the

first of the French provincial cities to resist and denounce the too

successful attempt of Danton and the commune of Paris to terrorise

France by a skilful abuse of the imbecility of Roland. The authorities

of Amiens were the first to protest against the outrageous pretensions

of the 'commissioners,' who came there with Roland's commissions in one

hand, and the secret instructions of Roland's colleague and master,

Danton, in the other, to pillage the property of the inhabitants under

the pretence of gathering supplies for the national defence, and to

establish an irresponsible local despotism under the pretence of

suppressing 'treason.' To them, in the first instance, belongs the

credit of compelling Roland to get up before the Assembly on September

17, 1792, and confess that he had 'signed in the council commissions

without knowing anything about the commissioners who were to use them;'

and to them, therefore, in the first instance, history is indebted for

the formal record which shows that the actual fall of the French

monarchy was followed, and its formal abolition preceded, by the letting

loose upon France of a swarm of scoundrels, who filled 'the prisons with

prisoners as to whom no one knew by whom they were arrested; who gave

over to pillage the treasures accumulated in the Tuileries, and in the

houses of the emigrant aristocracy; who conveyed away everything which

could tempt the cupidity of a subaltern, without any record whatever;

and who were delivering over Paris and France to the most absurd folly

and the most insatiable greed.' It was not the fault of Amiens if the

efforts of Mazuyer and Kersaint demanding a law to show 'whether the

French nation was sovereign, or the Commune of Paris,' and the sonorous

eloquence of Vergniaud denouncing the 'citizens of Paris' as the 'slaves

of the vilest scoundrels alive,' only led in the end to making France

herself for a time the slave of these same 'vilest scoundrels alive.'

In more recent times, Amiens received and entertained Gambetta on his

way by balloon from Paris to Tours. I asked the veteran Count Léon de

Chassepot, who for years was regularly returned at every election at the

head of the municipal councillors of Amiens, how the people received

Gambetta on that memorable occasion. His answer was that there really

was no 'reception.' Gambetta came down in his balloon at a little place

some way off, between Amiens and Montdidier, and when he reached Amiens

he was too tired and hungry to think of 'receiving' people or making

speeches. Count Léon de Chassepot had nothing, I believe, to do with the

invention of the guns which bear his name. But he has a glance like a

rifle-shot, and at fourscore years 'Spring still makes spring in the

mind' of this vivacious veteran. I asked him how Amiens behaved when the

news came there of the capture of Paris by the revolutionists of

September 4, 1870. Was the new republic hailed with enthusiasm?

'Enthusiasm!' he said scornfully; 'why should it be? The people of

Amiens were thinking of fighting the Prussians, not of upsetting the

Government! They received the news with stupefaction, as a matter of

little consequence in comparison with the invasion. The disaster of

Sedan had afflicted them profoundly. The Empire was popular in Picardy.

At the municipal elections which took place in Amiens just after the

declaration of war--early in August 1870, that is--the Imperialist

candidates had all been elected by overwhelming majorities. M. Goblet,

now so prominent in the Republican counsels, made his appearance then as

an anti-governmental candidate, together with M. Petit, the present

Radical mayor of Amiens. M. Goblet got 530 votes, and M. Petit 423. They

were the leading persons on that side, and the leading persons on the

side of the Government received, respectively, 5,099 and 4,964 votes.

This being the temper of the good people of Amiens at that time, you

will understand that they were more astounded than pleased by the

so-called revolution of September in Paris. But they were more patriotic

than the people of Paris, and they acquiesced in the overthrow of the

Government to show a united front to the enemy. He was within striking

distance of Amiens, by the way, and the boulevardiers unfortunately

thought that Paris was out of his reach.'

The first act of the revolutionists of September, it appears, was to

disorganise as far as they could the public service by removing the

prefects, and putting their own people into place and power. They sent a

certain M. Lardière down post-haste to Amiens to take the place of the

then prefect of the Somme, M. de Guigné, and that was all they did to

defend Amiens!

In the course of a pleasant morning spent with M. Ansart, a gentleman of

high character and position in Amiens, and with several of his friends,

I heard much that was interesting as to this critical period. The

attitude of the leading men throughout Picardy seems to have been in

complete conformity with M. de Chassepot's account of the bearing of the

city of Amiens. The mayor of a commune not far from Amiens, a marquis

and a leading Imperialist, on getting the news of the political

somersault executed at Paris, read out the bulletin to the people from

the mairie, reminded them that the enemy were sure to come into Picardy,

and then exclaimed, 'Well, my friends, since it seems we are in a

republic, Long live the Republic!'

This was the general feeling of good men everywhere at that time in

France. Said one gentleman, a landed proprietor from Brittany, 'Nobody

out of Paris who had a head on his shoulders approved what had been

done in Paris. But by common consent a great blank credit was opened for

the Republic all over France. If the Republicans would do their duty to

France, not as party men but as patriots, France was ready to accept

them. It is their own fault, and their fault alone, that the men who

made this change at Paris went to pieces so fast in the public

estimation. It is the fault of the Republicans, and their fault alone,

that now, after nearly eighteen years, they are an offence to sensible

and liberal men from one end of France to the other.'

The new prefect sent down from Paris turned out to be a wind-bag. By the

middle of November it became clear that Amiens must fall into the power

of the enemy. The new prefect launched a ridiculous proclamation,

blazing with adjectives, at the advancing Teutons, and then one fine

night got out of the way as fast as possible, leaving the city and the

department of the Somme to face the wrath of the not very placable

conquerors.

On November 28, the Prussians occupied the city, one French officer,

Commandant Vogel, falling at his post, which he refused to surrender.

Count Lehndorff, appointed to be German Prefect of the Somme, came down

upon the people heavily for war contributions, which were raised under

the management of M. Dauphin, who had been the Imperialist mayor of the

city ever since 1868, and who has of late years been a conspicuous

Republican. As peace drew near, Amiens had to borrow five millions of

francs, for which M. Dauphin agreed the city should pay M. Oppenheim of

Brussels a commission of 10 per cent., and issued its obligations at

7-1/2 per cent. for fifty years.

Naturally the Germans are not much liked at Amiens. Count de Chassepot

thinks the Picards in general really want war with Germany. They turned

out very generally during the contest. He commanded a battalion of

National Guards who turned out in full force, not a man missing, though

they were armed with wretched old muskets, and perfectly understood what

that must lead to for them. On making his rounds very early in the

morning, he found, in an advanced post, at a point of great danger, a

picket, a _sentinelle perdue_, who proved to be one of the most

respectable men in Amiens, the first president of the Upper Court of the

city, nearly sixty years of age, doing his duty as a private soldier.

'In a hospital here,' said M. de Chassepot, 'I have six hundred

patients. Every man of them is eager for another turn with the Germans.'

I was anxious to learn when and how it was that M. Goblet, just now the

leading Republican personage of this part of France, began to appear

conspicuously on the horizon. 'Not till Gambetta's new social strata

began to appear,' I was told. This was in 1874. The finances of the

city, left in a sad condition by the war, had been put into order by the

municipal council which was elected during the German occupation in

1871; the public works had been restored, fine barracks built, and a

sufficient number of school-houses. In return for those services the

councillors who had rendered them were turned out in 1874, M. Dauphin

among them, by the newly-organised 'Union républicaine.' This put M.

Goblet at last into the council with his ally, M. Petit, the latter

being the editor of a Radical journal, the _Progrès de la Somme_, which

the military governor of Paris had ordered to be suppressed early in

1874, for its attacks on the then President, Marshal MacMahon. In 1876

M. Goblet became mayor of Amiens.

'The very next year, when the contest began between Gambetta as head of

the Union of the Left and the President of the Republic, M. Goblet threw

himself as ex-mayor of Amiens openly on the side of the ex-dictator,

and made such speeches that he was dismissed from his office by the

President in June 1877.'

'Did he like this?'

'No, he didn't like it at all. As Minister of the Interior, in more

recent times, M. Goblet has knocked off the heads of a great number of

mayors. But when his own head was knocked off in 1877, he loudly and

scornfully denounced all municipal officers who would stoop to accept

their positions from the national government.'

'In that you have the whole character of M. Goblet,' said another

gentleman. 'I have known him from childhood. He is not a bad man, and,

as you know, he is a man of ability, one of the very few able men to be

found acting with President Carnot. But he is very vain, very ambitious,

very excitable. As the associate of Petit, who is a rampant atheist, and

of the anti-clericals generally, he has to pose as an unbeliever; but he

is, in fact, nothing of the sort. His wife is a good woman, and he goes

in great awe of her, which I think to his credit. I think if he felt his

health suffering he would go to confession in a quiet way by night, just

as the Gambetta prefect ran away from the Prussians in 1871. When the

grand funeral of Admiral Courbet took place at Abbeville, and it was

announced that Monseigneur Freppel would come and deliver the funeral

service over that noble Christian sailor and patriot, the victim of

Ferry, M. Goblet was in a dreadful state of mind. He said to me, "I

think I shall not attend the funeral." "Pray why?" "Well, I wish to

attend it, but I am sure that Bishop Freppel will say things offensive

to me." "Pray accept my congratulations," I replied; "you really are in

great luck that the first orator in France should take the trouble to

come all the way to Picardy expressly to insult you on such an

occasion!" So he thought better of it and attended, and his sensible

wife afterwards thanked me for preventing her husband from behaving like

a donkey.'

'An excellent woman, Madame Goblet!'

'Her husband owes her much, and he has some good friends. Comte de

Chassepot prevented him from playing the stupid farce of a Roman son by

sacrificing his father's funeral to a discussion on the laicisation of

the schools; for, seeing what he had in his mind, Comte de Chassepot

simply moved an adjournment of the council. His evil genius is M. Petit,

now a senator, the present mayor of Amiens. I have caught M. Goblet

offering the holy water with his hand behind my back to his wife; but M.

Petit is an outspoken unbeliever, and a very type of the anti-christian

demagogue.'

Upon this he told me a story which, as it is certainly typical of the

proceedings taken against religion all over France by functionaries of

M. Petit's way of thinking, I shall set down here.

In 1869 all the crosses and stones in the cemetery of the Madeleine at

Amiens set up on graves held by temporary concessions had to be removed

by reason of the lapse of these concessions. The then mayor and

municipal council had them sold, and ordered the proceeds to be spent in

erecting a large and beautiful cross with an image of the Saviour, and

an inscription stating that this crucifix was erected in memory of all

the dead buried in the cemetery whose crosses and tombs had been

removed. This crucifix, called the 'Calvary of the Poor,' was thus a

touching monument of the family affection of the poor among the people

of Amiens. Outraged by this symbol, the Radical mayor of Amiens caused

this Calvary to be dismantled, in the night of November 10, 1880, and

the crosses to be sawn in pieces and thrown away beyond the limits of

the cemetery. Surely this is an advance beyond Robespierre, and even

beyond the senseless Vandalism which solemnly ordered the destruction of

the tombs of the kings and heroes of France. Even Robespierre, when

Cambon made his proposal that the Convention should violate the public

faith pledged by the Constituent Assembly to the support of the French

clergy by the State in exchange for the seizure by the State of the

property of the Church, had sense enough to say, in a letter to his

constituents opposing the project, that 'to attack religion directly was

to strike a blow at the morals of the people.' I am not surprised to be

told that, notwithstanding the support given him by the central

government of the Republic at Paris, this worthy mayor has speedily lost

popularity even with his own Radical party, and that in the most recent

elections he barely escaped defeat. 'He is ensconced, though,

comfortably as senator,' said my shrewd informant, 'and I dare say he

will see his friend, M. Goblet, turned out of the Chamber! So--what does

he care? His zeal against the Calvary in Amiens may hurt him with the

poor people upon whose faith and whose affections he tramples; but, like

his brutal expulsion of the Sisters from their schools and hospitals,

and his truculence towards the religious processions in which the

Picards delight, it recommends him to the clique who have got our poor

France into their clutches at Paris, and who pose before all the gaping

world at the Universal Exposition as friends of Liberty and Progress!'

The laicisation of the schools has been pushed forward at Amiens, as

elsewhere. It began under M. Spuller, now Minister of Foreign Affairs,

who was made Prefect of the Somme in 1879. M. Goblet, who had then been

mayor for a year, resigned, to become under-secretary in the Ministry of

Justice, and the prefect put M. Delpech in his place. Everything, it

will be seen, was moved from the centre at Paris.

'This M. Delpech and his associates,' said one of my informants, 'began

the laicisation of the boys' schools. They were men who would not think

of picking a man's pocket, but see how they behaved in this business!

'There were six primary schools at Amiens conducted by the Christian

Brothers. Five of these had always been so conducted, and the sixth for

twenty years. The Christian Brothers agreed to give up this sixth

school, M. Petit promising them that, if they did this, they should not

be disturbed in the others. Very soon this promise was broken, and they

were turned out of the school of Notre-Dame. Then a charge was brought

against one of the brethren of the school of St.-Leu. It was serious and

went before the Assize Court, where the accused was promptly acquitted.

But this took time, and while the proceedings were pending, our

admirable M. Petit sent in a report to the Council recommending that the

Brethren be dismissed from their four remaining schools. On August 26,

1879, the Council adopted this report, and within a week M. Spuller, the

prefect, issued an order of expulsion, "in obedience," as he wrote, "to

the resolution of the Municipal Council of Amiens, and to the wishes of

the population."'

M. Spuller appears to be a true disciple of Robespierre, who, in his

famous socialistic speech before the Convention, affirming that bread,

meat, and all provisions are not private, but common, property, laid

down the maxim that, 'even if the measures proposed as their desire by

the people are not necessary in the eyes of law-makers, they should be

adopted.' _Civium ardor prava jubentium_ is a moral law for legislators

of this admirable school.

I should note by the way that these Brethren, thus expelled summarily,

were refused payment of their already fixed salaries for the month of

September.

A debate ensuing, the question was finally remitted to M. Jules Ferry,

'Grand Master of the University of France,' who decided that the

salaries were indeed due and the property of the Brethren, but that, as

the work could not be done by reason of their expulsion, the salaries

need not be paid!

Furthermore, the municipality appraised the school furniture, which had

been bought and paid for by the Brethren, and having ascertained its

value, decided--that it belonged to the municipality!

Will my readers think the expression of M. Fleury, an accomplished

journalist of Amiens, to whom I am indebted for these details, at all

too vigorous, when he described these proceedings as 'exactly defined in

the French Dictionary, and in the 379th article of the Penal Code, under

the word "theft"'?

In August 1880, on the refusal of the Sisters in charge of the girls'

school to take their pupils to an 'obligatory festival' during the time

fixed on Sunday for divine service, M. Petit, the municipal Emperor

Julian of Amiens, moved for 'the immediate laicisation of all the girls'

schools in Amiens.' This was too much even for M. Goblet, who, to his

credit, not only protested but voted against the proposition. It was,

however, carried. M. Goblet and six other councillors withdrew,

including the mayor, M. Delpech; and M. Petit thus became, by seniority,

mayor of Amiens.

'When this happened,' said a citizen of Amiens to me, 'and M. Petit was

thus put in charge of the rights and the property of the Sisters, it had

been perfectly well known for ten years that, by the Parliamentary

Inquest of 1871 into the story of the Commune of Paris, M. Petit had

been proved to be the founder at Amiens of the secret society known as

the "International," and yet he was never prosecuted, and he is now a

senator of the Republic. How do you expect honest people, who respect

the ordinary laws of order and civilisation, to support a Republic which

accepts and promotes the members of such a society?

'On October 2, 1880, this remarkable mayor went in person with a

locksmith and some others to the communal girls' school of St.-Leu, then

managed by the Sisters. The Sisters had been already that day notified

to leave the school-buildings "the next day." M. Petit ordered them to

go out immediately. They showed the notification and declined to go till

the next day. The curate of St.-Leu, with his vicar and with a member of

the board of Churchwardens, came up and protested against this invasion

of the school. "Show me the documents proving this house to be the

property of the municipality," said the curate. M. Petit showed no

documents, but demanded the keys. The curate refused to give them up. M.

Petit ordered his locksmith to pick the locks, which was done, and then

turning to the curate shouted out, "As for you, if you are here when the

commissary comes, I will have you turned out by force." Upon this the

curate, a venerable old man, withdrew.

'From the school of St.-Leu our local Robespierrot drove to the girls'

school of St.-Jacques, sprang out of the municipal coach (paid for by

the public treasury), dashed into the house, and seated himself without

a word.

'One of the Sisters asked him civilly what he wished. "I wish you to get

out of this house," he replied, "We cannot possibly leave in this way,"

answered a Sister who has for years devoted herself to this work. "I

have nothing to say to you," he cried; "I want the Superior." The

Superior quietly came and informed the mayor that the church officers

had told her not to leave, excepting under force. "Very well, you shall

have force! If you are not all out of here by Tuesday, I will put you

all into the street!"

'Now observe the consequences to the taxpayer of Amiens! The Church of

St.-Leu, as it happens, owned the greater part of the school-buildings.

The church began proceedings against the city, and in August 1881, the

tribunal ordered the city to give up the buildings seized by this

adventurous mayor, and to withdraw its lay teachers. The upshot was that

the performances of M. Petit, in one way or another--although M. Goblet,

then in the ministry at Paris, came to the rescue of his demagogic

ally--cost the taxpayers, in round numbers, some fifty thousand francs.

Now you see why the laicising Republicans are so anxious to shake the

whole system of the French magistracy. There may be judges at Berlin. It

is not convenient there should be judges in Republican France!'

This recalled to me what I heard the other day at Calais about the

functionary decorated at Bapaume by President Carnot, because the

tribunal had given a decision against him in a case raised by certain

Christian Brothers whom he had unlawfully put out of property which,

under the law, belonged to them.

'You think that a remarkable case!' said the Picard friend to whom I

mentioned it. 'It is an everyday affair. Wait a minute! Let me show you

the documents in regard to a performance of our worthy mayor and

senator, which throws President Carnot into the shade. They are as

amusing, too, as they are instructive, and I will give you copies of

them which you may use as you like. You tell me people in England and

America have no idea of what is going on in France? I assure you that

people in France who know what is going on around them, have no idea of

what it all means, or of what it must lead to in the end.

'Sometimes I think we were so stunned as a nation by the invasion and

the Commune that we are still staggering about like a man knocked on the

head in a dark road.

'But let me tell you the tale of M. Petit and Mademoiselle Colombel.

Mademoiselle Colombel was a lay teacher at the head of one of our

schools, the school of the Petit St.-Jean. I don't quite see, by the

way,' he observed, 'why M. Petit and his squad have not changed the

names of these schools. In Paris, you know, they had the courage to

change the name of one of the great lyceums into the Lyceum Lakanal. To

be sure it didn't stay changed very long, for even Paris--which suffers

one of its boulevards to commemorate that wretched creature Victor

Noir--wouldn't stand Lakanal. But to infect the minds of children with

the names of little Saints--surely this is a monstrous thing! Well,

Mademoiselle Colombel lost her temper one day, and tried to find it

about the person of one of her little pupils, with slaps, and pinches,

and other caresses of the kind. She was brought up before the police for

it, and sentenced to pay a small fine with costs. She appealed, but the

court confirmed the sentence of the police magistrate, who had acted

strictly within the law. What followed? This was in May 1885. Mdlle.

Colombel declared herself to be a persecuted martyr of "laicisation,"

and in that capacity called upon the mayor, M. Petit, for aid and

comfort. I believe they were old allies in the sacred cause. Be this as

it may, the mayor made himself her champion against the magistrate, and

wrote her, for public use, this letter. Pray print it. It is a great

thing for Amiens to possess a mayor, and for France to possess a

senator, who can write such a letter. It ought to have been sent to the

Exposition.

'"Amiens, May 1885.

'"Madame,--On the strength of calumnious imputations fomented by an

Ulysses who could not console himself for the departure of Calypso,

and complacently listened to, you have been prosecuted for cruelty

to your pupils.

'"After an inquiry as long and as voluminous as if the matter at

issue had been a case for the Assize Court, this intrigue came to a

miserable end before a simple police tribunal. From the moment,

when, through a singular sort of suspicion about your natural

judges, you were removed from the disciplinary action of your

superiors, without any preliminary inquiry made by them, and,

indeed, without apprising them of the matter, you should have been

taken before the Courts. Nobody seemed to understand this, so you

were condemned by default to pay a fine, trifling indeed, but so

imposed as to take from you the right of appeal. Be this as it may,

since some of the law officers of the Republic are ready to revive

against the lay instructors of our schools, the methods of the law

officers of the Empire, it is well your colleagues should know

that, whilst I am at the head of the municipal administration of

Amiens, they shall not be given over defenceless to the rancour of

the clerical world, its dupes, or its accomplices. I have therefore

the honour to inform you that I not only relieve you from all the

costs of your case, but that, in order to soothe the trouble it may

have caused you, I grant you an indemnity of one hundred francs!

'"Against the sentence which condemned you put this proof of esteem

and sympathy. Honest people and Republicans will think this

testimony at least as good as any other. Accept, Madame, the

assurances of my most distinguished consideration.

'"The Mayor of Amiens,

'"FRÉDÉRIC PETIT."'

'Ulysses bewailing the departure of Calypso is charming, is it not?'

said my friend. 'M. Petit is a cotton-velvet manufacturer, and his

classics are cotton classics. But what do you say to the applause of

"honest people" acclaiming a mayor who puts his hand into the public

treasury and makes a present out of it to soothe the injured feelings of

a schoolmistress fined by a public tribunal for ill-treating her pupils?

Can you ask for a more flagrant illustration of the state to which this

Republic is bringing our public services? And the mayor who wrote this

letter, and took this money out of the public treasury, and offered this

open insult to the tribunals of the city of Amiens, has since then been

made a senator of the Republic, with the help and concurrence of M.

Dauphin, then First President of our Courts, whose plain official duty

it was to revoke his commission as mayor as soon as this letter was

published! With such men as this in the French Senate do you wonder the

country laughs at senatorial courts of justice? I have no great opinion

of General Boulanger, though I have as good an opinion of him as of M.

Clémenceau, who invented him. But really is it not grotesque to see such

cotton-velvet senators as this mayor of Amiens going about to decide

questions of fidelity to public duty? Take my word for it' he continued,

'it is the direct personal knowledge which the people have of just such

personages as the mayor of Amiens all over France, which makes

two-thirds of the popular strength of General Boulanger. If the Senate

and the Government succeed in putting about the impression that General

Boulanger is no better than they are, they will no doubt weaken him with

the people, but they will not strengthen themselves. This Third Republic

is dying, not of any passion for the monarchy, not even of the

Imperialist legend, which is very strong in the country--more because

France was so prosperous under the third Napoleon than because France

dominated Europe under the first Napoleon: it is dying of popular

contempt. It is dying of the Goblets, the Petits, the Dauphins. They are

to be found all over France--under different names--yes--but always the

same: shallow, vain, vulgar sycophants of universal suffrage while they

are out of place, bullies and traders when they are in power. And then!'

he exclaimed after a pause, 'what most exasperates me is that they are

such a pack of wordmongers, for ever ranting about things which may have

intoxicated our grandfathers in 1792--they don't seem to me to have

invented gunpowder, our grandfathers!--but which simply make sensible

men sick to-day.

'Wait a moment! Let me complete the picture of our model Picard

Republican senator for you. The Comte de Chassepot told you the story,

did he not, of the Calvary in the cemetery of the Madeleine? Yes. But he

did not show you the correspondence about it between the bishop and this

charlatan of twopenny Atheism? No? Well it is a tit-bit, and I give it

to you! Petit sent his order to the keeper of the cemetery of the

Madeleine in November 1880, to raze the cross, saw off the arms, and

detach from it the image of Christ. He was then, observe, not really

mayor of Amiens, but only mayor by reason of the refusal of his senior

to serve in the office.

'The work was done at night. The cross was destroyed. The image of the

Saviour was thrown into a shed.

'Two days afterwards, the Bishop of Amiens wrote this letter to the

Prefect of the Somme, Spuller, the same person who is now--heaven save

the mark!--Minister of Foreign Affairs of the French Republic!

'"Amiens: Nov. 12, 1880.

'"Mr. Prefect,--A most deplorable incident--indeed a grave

scandal--has just taken place at the cemetery of the Madeleine, and

is exciting, with too much reason, the strongest and most painful

feelings among the people of Amiens.

'"The figure of our Saviour Christ, set up there in very special

circumstances, and with a solemn ceremony in which more than 30,000

spectators took part, was clandestinely thrown down and taken away

the night before last. It is impossible for me to imagine that the

authorities can have ordered such a thing to be done.

'"I must request you, Mr. Prefect, to order an inquiry to be made

into this inexplicable affair, and to cause the authors of the act

to be prosecuted according to law. Please accept the assurance of

my respectful regard.

'"[Illustration] AIME VICTOR-FRANCIS,

'"Bishop of Amiens."

'To this letter, written by the highest ecclesiastical authority of the

chief city of his préfecture--will you believe it?--M. Spuller, who is

after all not a perfectly illiterate person like Petit, actually made no

reply!

'But the cotton-velvet bagman of blasphemy three days afterwards,

reading in the papers the letter of Bishop Guilbert, burst into print

with this incredible but most instructive effusion, addressed to his

friend the Prefect:

'"Amiens: Nov. 15, 1880.

'"Mr. Prefect,--I find this morning in the journals of the

bishopric the text of a letter addressed to you by the Bishop of

Amiens in regard to the suppression of the Catholic emblem placed

at the entrance of the general cemetery of the Madeleine.

'"It was by my order, and my written order, that the Christ of the

Madeleine was removed. The only failure to comply with my orders

was that the operation was performed in the evening after the

cemetery was closed, instead of in the morning as I had directed.

In acting thus, I have shown great tolerance; for, in virtue of

Article 13 of the Law of the 7th Vendémiaire of the Year IV.,

circumscribed in its application, but not abrogated by the Law of

the 18th Germinal year X., as is shown by a ministerial decree of

the 7th Fructidor following: 'No sign special to any religion can

be raised, fixed, and attached in any place whatever, so as to

strike the eyes of citizens, except in an enclosure intended for

the exercises of this religion, or in the interior of private

houses, in the studios or warehouses of artists or merchants, or in

public edifices destined to contain monuments of the arts."'

'Then followed a dozen pages of similar twaddle, meant to show that the

mayor of Amiens was a most tolerant prince, in that he had not ordered

the destruction of every cross set up on a private grave!

'Of course all these laws of the First Republic were long ago shot into

space under the Consulate and the Empire, and of course, even if they

had not been shot into space, a consecrated cemetery is an "enclosure

intended for the exercises of religion." But what did that signify to M.

Petit, who, in a public speech the year after, boasted that he "had not

been married in church, and that his children had never been baptized."

'Did all this give the man any right to destroy and carry away a costly

piece of artistic work, the property of the city?'

Obviously, it is as absurd to expect peace and order in France under a

republic in which men like M. Petit, and M. Spuller, and M. Dauphin, and

M. Goblet are leading friends of the Government, as it would have been

to expect peace and order in the England of the seventeenth century,

when churchwardens--as at Banbury, for example--went about breaking at

night into the churches confided to their care, and smashing the statues

of the saints and defacing the glorious monuments of the past.

After considering all these humours and graces of the most recent French

Republic, as set forth by the senatorial mayor of Amiens, for the

edification of Picardy and France, it was interesting to walk with Mr.

Ruskin from the Place de Périgord up the 'Street of the Three Pebbles,'

past the theatre and the Palais de Justice, to the south transept of

that glorious cathedral which has not as yet been taken down by night,

under the senatorial mayor or his friends the ministers, M. Spuller and

M. Yves Guyot. Why should this 'Parthenon of Gothic architecture,' as M.

Viollet-le-Duc calls it, be left standing when the Calvary of the poor

at Amiens is cast down and sawn in pieces?

For surely Mr. Ruskin, who has written many true and eloquent things,

has written nothing truer than these words with which he brings to a

close his remarkable paper called the 'Bible of Amiens':--

'The life and gospel and power of Christianity are all written in

the mighty works of its true believers, in Normandy and Sicily, on

river-islets of France and in the river glens of England, on the

rocks of Orvieto and by the sands of Arno. But of all, the

simplest, completest, and most authoritative in its lessons to the

active mind of Northern Europe, is this on the foundation-stones of

Amiens. Believe it or not as you will--only understand how

thoroughly it was once believed--and that all beautiful things were

made and all brave deeds done in the strength of it--until what we

may call "this present time," in which it is gravely asked whether

religion has any effect on morals, by persons (senatorial and

other) who have essentially no idea whatever of the meaning of

either religion or morality.'

France and the Republic A Record of Things Seen and Learned in the French Provinces During the 'Centennial' Year 1889 · 第 5 / 17 章