DRAWER AND DOOR PULLS.
[Illustration: FIGURE 9.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 11.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 10.]
Pulls generally consist of two parts, the handle and the plate to which
the handle is fastened. Some pulls are stationary as in Figures 9, 10,
while in others the handle swings from either one or two points, Figures
11, 12, 13. In this case the handle may be made by taking a rod as great
in diameter as the thickest part of the handle, and either drawing it
out by hammering or filing it down to the required taper. After it is
tapered to the required size as at Figure 14, it is then bent into
shape according to the design. If the handle is to swing from one or two
points, it should be fastened by any one of the following methods.
[Illustration: PLATE 9. DRAW PULLS]
[Illustration: PLATE 10. DRAW PULLS]
[Illustration: PLATE 11. DRAW PULLS]
[Illustration: PLATE 12.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 12.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 13.]
[Illustration: FIGURE 14.]
Method 1. If it is possible to have the handle support go through the
drawer or door, the support may be made from a piece of square rod of
the length desired, a hole being drilled through one end, the size
needed, as at Figure 15, A. A shoulder is then made by filing the rod
down to the size of the hole in the plate. In making the shoulder the
remainder of the rod which is to go through the drawer front may be left
square or filed round; as the hole is round that is drilled to receive
it, this last is the better way. It is also easier to fasten it on the
inside of the drawer when it is made in this way, for it may be simply
headed up as in making a rivet, Figure 15 B, or a thread may be cut and
a nut used, Figure 15 C, D. The latter method is better where taps and
dies are at hand. When it is fastened by riveting, a circular or square
piece of metal called a washer, Figure 15 E, a little larger in diameter
than the bolt, with a hole the size of the bolt, is placed next to the
drawer front on the inside; this makes the riveting more secure.
[Illustration: FIGURE 15.]
Method 2. Another method for fastening this style of a handle is to cut
a slot through the plate about 1/16 inch wide and length called for by
the design, Figure 16 A. Then take a strip of copper in length 7 times
the diameter of the handle end and as wide as the slot in the plate is
long, Figure 16 B. This is then bent circular a little larger in
diameter than the end of handle as at Figure 16 C, and placed in the
slot as at Figure 16 D, and clinched on the back of the plate as at
Figure 16 E. The plate is in this case fastened to the drawer or door by
nailing or riveting.
[Illustration: FIGURE 16.]
Method 3. When it is desirable to make the plate and handle support all
in one piece, it may be done in any one of three ways. First. By
allowing enough metal in the center of the plate to form the handle
support as at Figure 12. Second. By allowing metal at the top of the
plate to bend over handle as at Figure 11. Third. By allowing metal at
the sides to be turned up at right angles to the plate to form the
support as at Figure 13. In this case holes are drilled in the side
pieces and a rivet is put through from one side to the other to hold the
handle. For this one the handle must be either bent around the rivet or
drilled to receive the rivet. In all three of these cases the plate is
fastened to the door or drawer by nailing or riveting.
HINGES.
Plate 13, Various outlines of the same hinge.
Plate 14, Hinges of same outline with interior variations.
Plates 15, 16, 17, Butt and Strap Hinges.
In a hinge, the joint is the important feature. The size of the hinge,
the strength required, and the decoration must also receive attention.
After these have been determined, a drawing should be made giving a
development of the joint. Whatever the size of the hinge, the following
principle in regard to the joint must be kept in mind. There must be
alternating projections left on the inner ends of each leaf of the hinge
to fit into one another so that the pin may pass through them and allow
the hinge to swing. The method of making these projections is determined
by the size of the hinge.
In hinges of any considerable size, the projections are left attached to
the hinge proper; in allowing for them there will be an even number on
one leaf and an odd number on the other. To obtain the strength desired,
the width of the projections on one leaf should equal the width of the
projections on the other leaf. This applies to any number of
projections. Their length should be determined by the diameter of the
joint, three times the diameter is the approximate length.
In making small hinges the projections may be bent into position by the
use of the round nose plyers. In larger work the projection is fastened
in the vise and beginning at the end is bent around the pin a little at
a time using the raw-hide mallet to work it into shape.
For small joints or hinges, such as would be used on a match box, stamp
box, bon-bon box, or ink pot, the joint should be made of small tubing
as described on page 100. This tubing is sawed into the required lengths
and soldered to the leaves to be hinged. The parts to receive the joint
are sometimes filed out.
[Illustration: PLATE 13. HINGES]
[Illustration: PLATE 14. HINGES]
[Illustration: PLATE 15. HINGES]
[Illustration: PLATE 16. HINGES]
[Illustration: PLATE 17. HINGES]