TLAXCALA
(1898)
We have always loved the State of Tlaxcala and its quaint little capital
city of the same name. For more than a dozen years its governor has been
Prospero Cahuantzi, a pure-blood indian, whose native language is Aztec.
He is a large, well built man, with full face and little black eyes that
are sunken deeply into the flesh. He is a man of some force and energy.
The population of his little state, the most densely populated in the
Republic, is almost entirely indian, and it at once fears, hates, and
respects him. Having made several previous visits to the city, and
having always been graciously received by Don Prospero, we thought it
hardly necessary to carry with us our usual letters of recommendation
from the Federal authorities.
Just before we were ready to visit Tlaxcala, while we were in the City
of Mexico, we learned that Governor Cahuantzi was there, on business.
We thought it best to call upon him, explaining our proposed work and
asking his interest. So to the Hotel Sanz, where he always stops when in
the Capital, we went. We called twice without finding him and our third
call appeared to be as unsuccessful, but just as we were leaving,
resolved not to try again, we met the governor alighting from his
carriage at the door. Intercepting him, we asked a moment's interview,
which was granted, though with ill grace. It was plain that he was sadly
out of humor. Apologizing to him for our intrusion at so late an hour
and so immediately after his return to his hotel, we told him of our
projected visit, described the measurements, photographs and other data
we were gathering, reminding him that two years earlier he had heard our
plans and promised his assistance. In a somewhat gentler mood, he told
us we might visit Tlaxcala and that he would aid us, but he must have a
little time "for preparing the soil;" that all his people were indians,
and that our work would necessarily be considered with suspicion. Upon
our asking him how much time would be needed "to prepare the soil," we
received no definite reply. He, himself, planned to leave for home the
following morning, Friday; so we suggested that we would go first to
Puebla, and reach his capital on Monday. He plainly considered this
somewhat hasty, but grunted his assent, and we left him, somewhat
surprised at his unusual gruffness and lack of interest.
Early Monday morning, we appeared upon the scene. After breakfast we
betook ourselves to the state palace; the governor was already in
his reception room, but, instead of being ushered promptly into his
presence, as had always happened in our previous visits, we were left
to sit two hours in the outer office. Finally, on our displaying some
impatience, a message was again taken to his Excellency, and a few
minutes later, the _jefe politico_ of the district bustled past us into
the carefully guarded reception chamber. He did not long remain there,
and, on coming out into the office where we were waiting, brusquely
asked, "Are you the persons who want to measure heads? Well, they are
waiting for you out there in the corridor; why don't you go to work?"
Seizing our instruments, blanks and camera, we hurried to the corridor
and began operations. Three or four were measured in quick succession;
then, when I cried, "_Otro_" (another), the _jefe's_ eyes began
to bulge. That one measured, and another called for, he seemed
half-distracted; desperation seized him; as he faintly repeated "_Otro_"
he looked wildly around in search of subjects and it was plain that
he had not begun to realize what demands we planned to make upon him.
Before the noonday rest, we had measured fourteen subjects, but the
_jefe's_ personal interest had ceased, and he had completely disappeared
from the scene of action. When we returned at three o'clock to resume
work, only the guards were there to help us. One and another subject,
invited to be measured, showed no interest in advancing science. So, Mr.
Wilson went to see the _jefe_ in his office; the old man was furious and
actually ran out, with the statement that he had plenty of his own work
to do. When this scene had been reported, it in no wise increased the
readiness of subjects to undergo the operation. Finding that we were
accomplishing nothing, we decided upon desperate measures. Going to the
office of the governor's private secretary, we insisted on his telling
the chief executive that we were losing time, that no one was assisting
us, that subjects were obdurate and stubborn, and that something must
be promptly done. We waited but a few minutes. The fiat went forth; the
_jefe politico_ appeared, puffing and blowing, and wildly excited. He
was closeted a moment with the governor. On his reappearance, we greeted
him cordially, and told him that the people present would not be
measured and indicated one particularly stubborn subject, who was dealt
with, promptly, and without gloves. The _jefe_ remained long enough to
reestablish order, though, under his breath, he muttered curses and
threats, and expressed his feeling to any official, who chanced to pass.
He said the business was driving him clean crazy; that he was doing what
he did, not for love of us, but from respect to the orders of his chief.
Having set the ball to rolling, he left us and there were no more
delays.
When the labor of the day was over, we stopped at the _jefe's_ office
to inform him that we should continue work the following day, and
emphasized the fact that we wished one hundred cases, and, as yet, had
less than half that number. We suggested that systematic arrangements
would not only facilitate _our_ labor, but would lessen his own task.
The result was evident; on the following day delegations, ordered by the
_jefe_, and consisting of from six to a dozen persons each, began to
come in from the outlying villages. This made our work easy, indeed. In
one respect, Tlaxcala differs from all the other Mexican states with
which we are acquainted. Most of the people live in very little towns,
which cluster around the larger places. Thus, around the capital city,
Tlaxcala, there are some seventeen of these small pueblos.
Working at the palace, we had secured almost no women for measurement.
Asking the advice of the _cura_, in the matter, he recommended that we
should go to some one of the neighboring indian villages; that he would
give us a letter to the _juez_ and that, thus, we would secure our
subjects easily. He suggested San Estevan and wrote the promised letter
to the _juez_ of that village. San Estevan is a pretty village, near the
summit of some low gray hills of tufa, behind which rises a background
of higher hills of the same material. The slope is terraced for the
houses, which are all built of adobe bricks and have flat roofs. The
"three part house," of the ancient Aztec type--god-house, kitchen, and
granary--is better shown in this state than almost any other part of the
Republic. The granary, or _cuezcomate_, is particularly characteristic.
It is built of clay, in the form of a great vase or urn, open at the
top, above which is built a little thatch to shed rain and to protect
the contents. The _cuezcomate_ is often ten feet high. One or more of
them is found in connection with every house.
[Illustration: HOUSE AND CUEZCOMATE; LOS REYES]
The _juez_ lived in a comfortable house of two rooms, half of which is
used at present for the boy's school, of which his son is teacher. He
received us graciously, and was pleased to receive a letter from the
_padre_, though he stated it was not a government order and carried no
actual authority; that if the women cared to be measured, well and good,
but if not, no force could be employed. The appearance of the camera,
however, interested him; plainly, he desired to have a family group
photographed; he hinted at this so broadly that, taking him to one side,
I whispered that it was, of course, impossible to take family groups
for everyone, but if we secured the twenty-five women without delay,
notwithstanding the fact that we had no more authoritative document than
a _cura's_ letter, the group should be taken. The effect was immediate.
The police were summoned and sent through the village to bring in women
for measurement and naught was said about their right of refusal.
When, toward evening, we returned from San Estevan, tired but quite
satisfied with the day's work, we found a delegation of more than a
dozen men waiting for us in the _plaza_. We did not need so large a
number to complete our work, and it was nearly dark; we would gladly
have dismissed them and run our chances of securing others the next
day. But neither they nor the _jefe politico_ were to be bluffed. So we
marched into the corridor, lighted candles and got to work. When those
lacking to make our full hundred had been measured, we proposed to let
the others go, but they were not to be thus got rid of, and insisted
on being measured as such were the orders of the governor. We were not
through until long after dark, and we were ravenously hungry.
This delegation was one of the most attractive, clean, and intelligent
with whom we had dealt. It was from Los Reyes, a little town at a
distance of about half a league. It was headed by the village _juez_.
After we had completed the measuring, they stood, shifting their
_sombreros_ from hand to hand and plainly wishing to say something
further; finally, mustering courage, the _juez_ and _secretario_
advanced and stated that it was the town's desire to have a picture
taken of the church, with the saint and people of the village before
the door. Would it be possible for us to make the picture and on what
conditions? We replied that time was precious and that the trip, if it
involved a loss of time, was quite impossible; but if they supplied
carriers to take the instruments to and from their village, and had all
ready before seven in the morning, we would make it. Delighted, the
officials then inquired what we would wish for breakfast; we answered
French bread and red wine. When we looked out of our window, a little
before seven, we saw our party ready and waiting. The _juez_, the
_secretario_, and two others made the company. A basket, carefully
carried by one, was suspected to contain our breakfast. The burdens were
shouldered, and we started out in the cool, fresh morning air, for the
village, where we arrived in about half an hour. It is a town of less
than one hundred people, situated upon a little mountain, hidden, to one
looking from Tlaxcala, by intervening hills. We were received in the
town-house, which is a portion of the old church building; mass was in
progress, and we told those who received us, that we had no wish to
interfere with their religious duties; that those who wished, might go
to service. Most went, but two or three were left as a committee of
entertainment. They took us to a view-point from which there was a
magnificent valley to be seen. And, here, we found one of the finest
echoes possible. Rockets were exploded and the noise was echoed
from hill to hill around the great amphitheatre; it was like a long
reverberation of thunder, but it sank and swelled, sank and swelled,
repeatedly, until it seemed that it would never stop. Service over, the
procession formed, and the _santito_ was brought out before the church.
The townspeople were arranged and the view taken. We were then invited
in to breakfast, which was fine. There were plenty of French rolls and
the red wine brought from town, and a great heap of _enchiladas_, fresh
lettuce and eggs. After eating, we expressed a wish to hear the village
drum, a great _huehuetl_. This musical instrument is a reminder of the
olden times; it is not found everywhere, but a number of indian towns
possess one, which is kept to be played on festal occasions. The one as
Los Reyes was some three feet or so in height, a hollow cylinder of wood
with a membrane stretched across the upper end; it was painted blue.
A chair of state was placed for me in the little _patio_. After I was
seated the three musicians took their places,--one played the great
_huehuetl_, a second beat the _tambour_ or ordinary drum, the third
performed upon the _chirimiya_, a shrill wooden pipe. It was the first
time we had really heard a _huehuetl_. The player used two sticks with
padded heads, beating with great force in excellent time. The booming of
the instruments was audible to a great distance. The whole village had
gathered, and in a momentary lull in the music, I told the people of the
ancient use of the _huehuetl_; that Bernal Diaz, in his history of the
Conquest of Mexico, tells us what feelings filled the hearts of the
Spaniards, when they heard the great _huehuetl_, in the temple of the
ancient city of Tenochtitlan; then it was chiefly beaten when human
victims were being sacrificed to the gods, and the soldiers knew that
some fellow-countryman, or a Tlaxcalan ally, was dying. Never have I
given a public lecture, that was listened to with more attention or
greater appreciation.
[Illustration: THE VILLAGE AND ITS SAINT; LOS REYES]
[Illustration: CUEZCOMATE, OR GRANARY; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]
The day we measured women at San Estevan, we found an indian mason
there at work, whom we had measured at Tlaxcala, and with whom, on one
occasion, we had some conversation. He was disgusted at the conduct of
the women while undergoing measurement, and at evening said, "Sir, it is
a pity for you to waste your time in a town like this; these people are
little better than animals; in my town there is great enthusiasm over
your work, and by going there you might do your will and find people
with minds, not beasts." There was really no work left to be done, but
we desired to see a town where there was great enthusiasm over our
investigations. Hence, we arranged with Ignacio Cempoalteca to visit his
pueblo of San Nicolas Panotla. Accordingly, on the afternoon of the day
when we visited Los Reyes, we went across the valley to Panotla, Ignacio
and an older brother, Jose, met us at the hotel, where--excusing
himself on account of the mason-work at San Estevan, which could not
wait--Ignacio left us, assuring us that Jose would do everything for us.
This was quite true, and we found Panotla all that it had been painted.
Jose led us directly to their home. The walls were well built of stone
set in adobe mortar; they were smoothly coated with a snowy plaster; the
supporting walls of the little terrace on which the house was built were
also well constructed and it was with some pride that Jose told us that
the work had all been done by himself and Ignacio. Jose is married and
has a wife and three children; Ignacio is a bachelor; a younger
brother, Carmen, is also unmarried--he has taught himself free-hand and
architectural drawing and showed us examples of his work. The old father
and mother own the home and received us hospitably. Jose guided us
through the village, where we photographed whatever took our fancy,
entered houses, examined all that interested us, and really found
enthusiasm for our work everywhere. Before the churchyard stands a
quaint old cross of stone, dated 1728, upon which are represented all
the symbols of Christ's passion; a long inscription in Aztec is cut into
the base. Close by the church, we visited the boy's school, where
we found some forty dark-skinned, black-eyed, youngsters, whose
mother-speech is Aztec. We proposed to photograph them, so they were
grouped outside the schoolhouse, but not until a pair of national flags
and the portrait of the governor, Prospero Cahuantzi, were fixed upon
the background wall.
[Illustration: THE ANCIENT DRUM--HUEHUETL; LOS REYES]
[Illustration: FIESTA AT CHOLULA; DAY OF SAN ANTONIO ABAD]
After the picture had been taken, we told the _maestro_ we would like
to hear the boys sing. It was plain he did not consider singing their
strong forte, but our wishes were met. One boy, standing, wielded the
baton, beating time. When the singing was done with, the _maestro_
said he would like us to see the class in arithmetic, if we had time.
Accordingly fourteen or fifteen boys, from ten to fourteen years of
age, stepped out upon the dirt floor; we were told that they could
work examples in percentage, interest, bonds and mortgages, discount,
alligation--which did we prefer? Truth to say, it was so long since we
had studied alligation, that we had really forgotten what it was, and
so expressed a preference for it. "Very good, sir," said the _maestro_.
"Will you not propound a problem?" From this quandary we escaped
by stating that we could not think of doing so; that we had every
confidence in his fairness and that he had better give it, as the boys
were more accustomed to him. We have visited many classes of the same
grade and age in the United States and have never seen one that would
surpass them in quickness, accuracy, and clearness of explanation. After
our trip through San Nicolas Panotla, Jose took us back to his house,
where, meantime, a, dinner had been made ready.
Weeks later, we learned the probable reason of the governor's gruffness,
which was in such marked contrast to his previous treatment, that it
puzzled us considerably. At about the time of our visit, a number of
wealthy _hacienderos,_ of the State of Tlaxcala, had been arrested for
counterfeiting silver money. They were men whose _maguéy_ fields brought
them enormous incomes; one would suppose their legitimate sources of
wealth would have contented them! But such was not the case, and they
had gone into wholesale counterfeiting. The fraudulent coin had long
been known and diligent efforts were made to find the criminals, efforts
at last crowned with success. The guilt was fixed without a doubt, the
parties were arrested, tried, and sentenced. Every attempt was made to
secure their pardon, in vain. Governor Cahuantzi is an old friend of
President Diaz, believed to have great influence with him. Men of
wealth, interested in the release and pardon of the criminals, promised
Cahuantzi ten thousand dollars in case of his successful intercession
with the President in the matter. These details, not generally known, we
received from a source respectable and trustworthy, and we believe them
true. Anxious to gain the reward, and probably feeling certain of his
influence with Diaz, the old man made the journey to Mexico. It was the
very time when we called upon him. When we had our interview, he had
just seen the President, and it is hinted that, not only did Don
Porfirio refuse to pardon the counterfeiters, but showed a dangerous
inclination to investigate the reason of the indian governor's
intervention. No wonder that the old man was gruff and surly to his
visitors, after the loss of ten thousand dollars which he had looked
upon as certain, and with uncertainty as to the final outcome of his
unlucky business.
[Illustration: TLAXCALAN SCHOOLBOYS; SAN NICOLAS PANOTLA]