Whatever appertains to California, the new El Dorado of the southwest,
is interesting to Americans and indeed to the whole civilized world.
The following brief account, therefore, of its physical geography,
compiled from authentic sources and carefully condensed, will readily
receive the attention of the inquiring mind:
"Upper California extends, upon the Pacific, from the 32d parallel of
latitude, about seven hundred miles north-westward to Oregon, from
which it is divided, nearly in the course of the 42d parallel--that is
in the latitude of Boston--by a chain of highlands called the Snowy
Mountains; the Sierra Nevada of the Spaniards. Its boundaries on the
west are not, as yet, politically determined by the Mexican government;
nor do geographers agree with regard to natural limits in that
direction. By some, it is considered as embracing only the territory
between the Pacific and the summit of the mountains which border the
western side of the continent: others extend its limits to the
Colorado; while others include in it, and others again exclude from it,
the entire regions drained by that river. The only portion occupied by
Mexicans, or of which any distinct accounts have been obtained, is that
between the great chain of mountains and the ocean; the country east of
that ridge to the Colorado appears to be an uninhabitable desert.
"Northward from the Peninsula, or Lower California, the great
western-most chain of mountains continues nearly parallel with the
Pacific coast, to the 34th degree of latitude, under which rises Mount
San Bernardin, one of the highest peaks in California, about forty
miles from the ocean. Further north the coast turns more to the west,
and the space between it and the summit line of the mountains becomes
wider, so as to exceed eighty miles in some places; the intermediate
region being traversed by lines of hills, or smaller mountains,
connected with the main range. The principal of these inferior ridges
extends from Mount San Bernardin north-westward to its termination on
the south side of the entrance of the Bay of San Franciso, near the
38th degree of latitude, where it is called the San Bruno Mountains.
Between this range and the coast run the San Barbara Mountains,
terminating on the north at the Cape of Pines, on the south-west side
of the Bay of Monterey, near the latitude 361/2 degrees. North of the
San Bruno mountains is the Bolbones ridge, bordering the Bay of San
Francisco on the east; and still further in the same direction are
other and much higher lines of highlands, stretching from the great
chain and terminating in capes on the Pacific.
"The southern part of Upper California, between the Pacific and the
great westernmost chain of mountains, is very hot and dry, except
during a short time in winter. Further north the wet season increases
in length, and about the Bay of San Francisco the rains are almost
constant from November to April, the earth being moistened during the
remainder of the year by heavy dews and fogs. Snow and ice are
sometimes seen in the winter on the shores of the bay, but never
further south, except on the mountain tops. The whole of California is,
however, subject to long droughts." Heavy rains are of rare occurrence,
and two years without any is not unusual; notwithstanding which,
vegetation does not suffer to the extent that might be inferred,
because, in the first place, many small streams descend from the
mountain ranges, supplying the means of both natural and artificial
irrigation; and, next, that the country near the coast is favored with
a diurnal land and sea breeze; and, from the comparatively low
temperature of the sea, the latter is always in summer accompanied with
fogs, in the latter part of the night, and which are dissipated by the
morning's sun, but serve to moisten the pastures and nourish a somewhat
peculiar vegetation abounding in beautiful flowers.
"Among the valleys of Upper California are many streams, some of which
discharge large quantities of water in the rainy season; but no river
is known to flow through the maritime ridge of mountains from the
interior to the Pacific, except perhaps the Sacramento, falling into
the Bay of San Francisco, though several are thus represented on the
maps. The valleys thus watered afford abundant pasturage for cattle,
with which they are covered; California, however, contains but two
tracts of country capable of supporting large numbers of inhabitants,
which are that west of Mt. San Bernardin, about the 34th degree of
latitude, and that surrounding the Bay of San Francisco, and the lower
part of the Sacramento; and even in these, irrigation would be
indispensable to insure success in agriculture."
"The provincial terms of New Mexico, and of Upper and Lower California,
have been, and are yet, rather designations of indefinite tracts than
of real defined political sections. The Pacific ocean limits on the
west, and by treaty, N. lat. 42° on the north; but inland and
southward, it is in vain to seek any definite boundary. In order,
however, to give as distinct a view as the nature of the case will
admit, let us adopt the mouth of the Colorado and Gila, or the head of
the Gulf of California, as a point on the southern boundary of Upper
California. The point assumed coincides very nearly with N. lat. 32°
and, if adopted, would give to that country a breadth of ten degrees of
latitude or in round numbers 800 statute miles from south to north. As
already, stated, the Pacific Ocean bounds this country on the west, and
lat. 42° on the north. To separate it on the east from New Mexico, we
must assume the mountain chain of Sierra Madre, or Anahuac, which, in
this region, inclines but little from north to south: whilst the
Pacific coast extends in general course north-west and south-east.
These opposite outlines contract the southern side to about 500 miles,
and open the northern side to rather above 800 miles; giving a mean
breadth of 650 miles. The area, for all general purposes, may be safely
taken at 500,000 square miles. The general slope or declination of this
great region is westward, towards the Pacific and Gulf of California."
"The climate of the western slope of North America has a warmth ten
degrees at least higher than the eastern, upon similar latitude. The
cause of this difference is the course of prevailing winds in the
temperate zones of the earth, from the western points. Thus the winds
on the western side of the continent are from the ocean, and on the
eastern from the land.
"The soil is as variable as the face of the country. On the coast range
of hills there is little to invite the agriculturist, except in some
vales of no great extent. The hills are, however, admirably adapted for
raising herds and flocks, and are at present the feeding-grounds of
numerous deer, elk, &c., to which the short, sweet grass and wild oats
that are spread over them afford a plentiful supply of food. The valley
of the Sacramento, and that of San Juan, are the most fruitful parts of
California, particularly the latter, which is capable of producing
wheat, Indian corn, rye, oats, &c., with all the fruits of the
temperate, and many of the tropical climates. It likewise offers
pasture grounds for cattle. This region comprises a level plain, from
fifteen to twenty miles in width, extending from the Bay of San
Francisco, beyond the mission of that name, north and south. This may
be termed the garden of California; but although several small streams
and lakes serve to water it, yet in dry seasons or droughts, not only
the crops but the herbage also suffers extremely, and the cattle are
deprived of food." The most extensive portion of Upper California--the
inland plain between the California and the Colorado range of
mountains--is an arid waste, destitute of the requisites for supplying
the wants of man. This plain is a waste of sand, with a few detached
mountains (some of which rise to the region of perpetual snow,) whose
positions are unknown; from these flow small streams that are soon lost
in the sand. A few Indians are scattered over the plain, the most
miserable objects in creation."
The climate is very peculiar, the thermometer on the coast ranging as
high, on the average, in winter as in summer. Indeed, summer is really
the coldest and most disagreeable part of the year, owing to the
north-west winds which frequently prevail during that season. As you
recede from the coast, however, the climate undergoes a great change
for the better. At San Juan, thirty miles from the coast, is one of the
most delightful climates in the world. The two principal rivers in
Upper California are the Sacramento and the San Joaquim. There are,
however, many smaller streams flowing through the different valleys,
which serve, during the dry season, to irrigate the land. The only
navigable stream is the Sacramento.
Beside the bays and harbors of Monterey, Santa Barbara and San Pedro,
Upper California possesses the harbor of San Francisco, within a few
miles of the Gold Mines, and one of the largest and most magnificent
harbors in the world.
The yield of wheat, small grain, and vegetables, is said to be great,
and very remarkable, but, as agriculture cannot succeed in Upper
California, but by irrigation, it has hitherto happened that it has
been principally occupied as a pastoral country--as costing less labor
to rear cattle, for which it is only necessary to provide keepers, and
have them marked. The numerous animals which are there slaughtered for
little more than their hides and tallow, do not putrify and become
offensive as they would in other climates, but, as wood is not
everywhere as abundant as their bones, the last are sometimes used to
supply the place of the former, in the construction of garden fences &c.
"The area of Upper California is about 500,000 square miles, and the
population, exclusive of Indians scattered over this extent, as follows:
Californians descended from Spain,----------------- 4000 Americans from
United States,---------------------- 360 English, Scotch, and
Irish,------------------------ 300 European
Spaniards,-------------------------------- 80 French and
Canadians,------------------------------ 80 Germans, Italians,
Portugese, and Sandwich Islanders, 90
Mexicans,------------------------------------------ 90
____
Total---------------------------------------------- 5000
"Upper California is, on the whole, admirably fitted for colonization.
This province presents the greatest facilities for raising cattle, for
cultivating corn, plants, and for the grape; it might contain twenty
millions of inhabitants; and its ports are a point of necessary
communication for vessels going from China and Asia to the western
coasts of North America.
"It is beyond doubt, that so soon as an intelligent and laborious
population is established there, this country will occupy an elevated
rank in the commercial scale; it would form the _entrepôt_ where the
coasts of the great ocean would send their products, and would furnish
the greatest part of their subsistence in grains to the north-west, to
Mexico, to Central America, to Ecuador, to Peru, to the north coast of
Asia, and to many groups of Polynesia--such as the Sandwich isles, the
Marquesas, and Tahiti."
"The peninsula of Lower California, extending from Cape San Lucas to
the Bay of Todos Santos, in lat. 32° N., on the Pacific, and to the
mouth of the Colorado on the Gulf side, is a pile of volcanic debris
and scoriae. Much of the surface is still heated by subterranean fires.
No craters are in action; but hot springs of water and bitumen, and
frequent earthquakes, and the scorched face of the whole region,
demonstrate it to be a mere mass upheaved from the sea, and burned to
cinders. The range of mountains that comes up through Lower California,
runs on northwardly into Upper California, at an average distance of
sixty or seventy miles from the sea, till it falls away into low hills
south of the bay of San Francisco. This, also, is a volcanic range;
though not so strongly marked to that effect in the Upper as in the
Lower Province.
"Some portions of this range are lofty. That part lying east and
southeast of El Pueblo de los Angelos, is tipped with perpetual snows.
But the greater part of it presents a base covered up to more than half
of the whole elevation with pine and cedar forests; the remaining
height being composed of bare, dark, glistening rocks, lying in
confused masses, or turreted in the manner observed on the Black Hills
in the Great Prairie Wilderness---spires, towers, and battlements,
lifted up to heaven, among which the white feathery clouds of beautiful
days rest shining in the mellow sun.
"The Snowy Mountain range is perhaps the boldest and most peculiar of
the California highlands. Its western terminus is Cape Mendocino, a
bold snow-capped headland, bending over the Pacific in 40° north
latitude. Its western terminus is in the Wind River Mountains, latitude
42° N., about seven hundred miles from the sea. Its peculiarity
consists in what may be termed its confused geological character. Near
the sea its rocks are primitive, its strata regular. A hundred miles
from the sea where the President's range crosses it, everything is
fused--burned; and at the distance of seventy miles northeastwardly
from the Bay of San Francisco, a spur comes off with a lofty peak,
which pours out immense quantities of lava, and shoots up a flame so
broad and bright as to be seen at sea, and to produce distinct shadows
at eighty miles' distance. Here is an extensive tract of this range
which has been burned, and whose strata have been torn from their
natural positions; displaying an amalgamated mass of primitive rock _ex
loco_, mingled with various descriptions of volcanic remains. From this
point eastward, it is a broken irregular chain of peaks and rifted
collateral ranges, and spurs running off northwardly and southwardly,
some of which are primitive and others volcanic.
"Another range of mountains which deserves notice in this place, is
that which bounds the valley of the San Joaquim on the east. This is a
wide and towering range. It is in fact a continuation of the
President's range, and partakes very strongly of its volcanic
character. That part of it which lies eastwardly from the Bay of San
Francisco, is very broad and lofty. One of its peaks, Mount Jackson, as
it is called, is the highest in all the President's range. Mountains of
great size are piled around it, but they appear like molehills beside
that veteran mount. Its vast peak towers over them all several thousand
feet, a glittering cone of ice.
"All over the Californias, the traveler finds evidences of volcanic
action. Far in the interior, among the deserts; in the streams; in the
heights; in the plains; everywhere, are manifestations of the fact,
that the current of subterranean fire which crossed the Pacific,
throwing up that line of islands lying on the south of the Sea of
Kamschatka, and passed down the continent, upheaving the Oregon
territory, did also bring up from the bed of the ocean the Californias.
"The peninsula, or lower California, which extends from Cape San Lucas
in N. lat. 22° 48', to the Bay of Todos Santos in lat. 32° N., is a
pile of barren, volcanic mountains, with very few streams, and still
fewer spots of ground capable of sustaining vegetation. The territory
lying north and south of the Colorado of the west, and within the
boundaries of the Californias, is a howling desolation.
"From the highlands near the mouth of the Rio Colorado, a wild and
somewhat interesting scene opens. In the east appears a line of
mountains of a dark hue, stretching down the coast of the Gulf as far
as the eye can reach. These heights are generally destitute of trees;
but timber grows in some of the ravines. The general aspect, however,
is far from pleasing. There is such a vastness of monotonous
desolation; so dry, so blistered with volcanic fires; so forbidding to
the wants of thirsting and hungering men, that one gladly turns his eye
upon the water, the _Mar de Cortez_, the Gulf of California. The
Colorado, two and a half miles in width, rushes into this Gulf with
great force, lashing as it goes the small islands lying at its mouth,
and for many leagues around the waters of the Gulf are discolored by
its turbulent flood. On the west, sweep away the mountains of Lower
California. These also are a thirsty mass of burned rocks, so dry that
vegetation finds no resting-place among them.
"That province of Lower California varies from thirty to one hundred
and fifty miles in width, a superficial extent almost equal to that of
Great Britain; and yet on account of its barrenness, never will, from
the products of the soil, maintain five hundred thousand people in a
state of comfort, ordinarily found in the civilized condition. Every
few years tornadoes sweep over the country with such violence, and
bearing with them such floods of rain, that whatever of soil has been
in any manner previously formed, is swept into the sea. So that even
those little nooks among the mountains, where the inhabitants from time
to time make their fields, and task the vexed earth for a scanty
subsistence, are liable to be laid bare by the torrents. In case the
soil chance to be lodged in some other dell, before it reach the Ocean
or the Gulf, and the people follow it to its new location, they find
perhaps no water there and cannot cultivate it. Consequently they are
often driven by dreadful want to some other point in quest of
sustenance, where they may not find it, and perish among the parched
highlands. The mean range of temperature in the whole country in the
summer season is from 60° to 74° Fahrenheit. The rains fall in the
winter months; are very severe, and of short duration. During the
remainder of the year the air is dry and clear; and the sky more
beautiful than the imagination can conceive.
"The range of mountains occupying the whole interior of this country,
vary in height from one to five thousand feet above the level of the
sea. They are almost bare of all verdure, mere brown piles of
barrenness, sprinkled here and there with a cluster of briars, small
shrubs, or dwarf trees. Among the ridges are a few spots to which the
sweeping rains have spared a little soil. These, if watered by springs
or streams, are beautiful and productive. There are also a few places
near the coast which are well adapted to tillage and pasturage.
"But the principal difficulty with this region, is one common to all
countries of volcanic, origin,--a scarcity of water. The porousness of
the rocks allows it to pass under ground to the sea. Consequently one
finds few streams and springs in Lower California. From the Cape San
Lucas to the mouth of the Colorado, six hundred miles, there are only
two streams emptying into the Gulf. One of these is called San Josef
del Cabo. It passes through the plantations of the Mission bearing the
same name, and discharges itself into the bay of San Barnabas. The
other is the Mulege, which waters the Mission of Santa Rosalia, and
enters the Gulf in latitude 27° N. These are not navigable. The streams
on the ocean coast, also, are few and small. Some of them are large
enough to propel light machinery, or irrigate considerable tracts of
land, but none of them are navigable. In the interior are several large
springs, which send out abundant currents along the rocky beds of their
upper courses; but when they reach the loose sands and porous rocks of
the lower country, they sink and enter the sea through subterranean
channels. A great misfortune it is too, that the lands which border
those portions of these streams which run above the ground, consist of
barren rocks. Where springs, however, and arable land occur together,
immense fertility is the consequence. There is some variety of climate
on the coasts, which it may be well to mention. On the Pacific shore
the temperature is rendered delightfully balmy by the sea breezes, and
the humidity which they bring along with them. Fahrenheit's thermometer
ranges on this coast, during the summer, between fifty-eight and
seventy-one degrees. In the winter months, while the rains are falling,
it sinks as low as fifty degrees above zero. On the Gulf coast there is
a still greater variation. While at the Cape, the mercury stands
between sixty and seventy degrees, near the head of the Gulf it is down
to the freezing point.
"These isolated facts, in regard to the great territory under
consideration, will give the reader as perfect an idea of the surface
and agricultural capacities of Lower California as will be here needed.
* * * * *